Porsche 914 Master Cylinder Upgrade (914 rubber 19mm)

Here's how I installed the 19mm master brake cylinder from 914 Rubber (914rubber.com). I had the whole front end out, so there was lots of room to work with, but this new design should make it much easier to change the MC without removing the gas tank or steering rack.
Please remember that I'm not a qualified mechanic, so take my advice at your own risk. I strongly recommend having a pro mechanic check your work when done. It's the brake system after all! Be safe and enjoy...

[@IanKarr]

Thanks so much for watching. If you like these videos, please give a 👍, subscribe and hit the 🔔 . I make these videos alone in my garage and your subcriptions motivate me to keep making them. I try to answer all comments quickly. Be safe and enjoy the addiction!

[@tgottwalt]

Ian, great job on these videos! You’re honestly one of the best presenters on KZbin. Thank you!

[@IanKarr]

Wow, thanks!

[@datalabstrainer]

I watched this and was like - wow - this looks easy enough... Then, when I started doing it I realized you didn't have your gas tank or steering rack in. ;) It's considerably more tricky.

[@IanKarr]

I can see how that would be ;). Did you finish the job? How did it go?

[@datalabstrainer]

@@IanKarr Not finished yet. I'm having a hard time getting enough of the plastic tube to come down underneath. I can't loosen one of the screws up by the reservoir because it's twisted underneath the hose and the gas tank is in the way. I'll figure it out eventually. :)

[@pyoung168]

Ian, another useful 914 video. I've redone my entire brake system ('74 1.8L) and in that process I purchased a master cylinder with the original, grommet-type, reservoir-to-master line fittings. And I have had nothing but problems getting that rear (firewall side) fitting to seal properly. I've replaced the grommet seal (removing the grommet that came with new master) and in doing so I noticed that the removed grommet definitely showed signs of the aft reservoir tube not seating uniformly inside the seal ID. The new seal has now started leaking as well after about 2 months of use. Guess I'll be buying the 914 Rubber master next. Thanks.

[@IanKarr]

I find it easier / more reliable to put the lines in while the MC is out of the car, then fish them up through the grommets and past the gas tank.

[@kneedragger5255]

I would also highly recommend you replace the crush washers beneath/in between all the banjo fittings any time you break their seal. Cheap insurance to prevent a leak.

[@IanKarr]

Agreed

[@jimmygrizzard9108]

I have a 1976 914 2.0 it stills has the original fuel injection system . My problem is that I have a Oil Dipstick Tube that is broken and I have been unable to find a replacement part anywhere for it. Auto Atlanta ordered me one but after about 2 months cancelled the order as no longer available. Would you by chance know of any source that I could get one or maybe a possible repair that could be made. I have enjoyed your video's and have used 914 rubber for a lot of hard to get parts. I did replace my drive gear angle with the one from 914 that has the 2 O-rings and no more leaks on the floor. Keep making those videos they are awesome.

[@IanKarr]

Thanks, Jimmy! Try putting a WTB on 914world.com. I'm sure you'll find one quickly.

[@hugoglenn9741]

I could be mistaken but don’t Germans use metric and you used a 7/16 flare wrench. You claimed not using a flare wrench could round the nut and on brake lines I agree this is extremely painful to deal with. However, isn’t using SAE instead of metric and rounding nuts equally as painful?

[@IanKarr]

Good eye! The 7/16 is super close. Like within .005. And with the force spread equally around the nut, there was no danger of rounding.

[@ericalvarez8821]

Ian, chance you know where I can find the easy install kit? Rubber won't sell me the kit even though I bought the master cylinder from them and just simply clicked the wrong link. They sell one with the kit and one without. Had I known, I would definitely bought with.

[@IanKarr]

I believe the MC itself on the easy kit is different...it has threaded ports for the barbed fittings. Did you speak with Mark or Scott at 914rubber?

[@charlessantos8999]

Hello Ian. Thank you for the informative video. I was wondering when you did the master brake cylinder change, did you use the quick jack? If so what is the maximum height that you had the jack set up? I don't that a quick jack but thinking of using regular jacks and ensuring that I safely stabilize the car. Thank you in advance.

[@IanKarr]

Hi Charles. I believe the car was raised about 19 inches. Please be safe and use only the pin-type jack stands. Never get under a car which is supported by a pump jack.

[@charlessantos8999]

Ian, thank you for getting back to me. I will using the proper jacks. Keep up the great work and videos. I'm learning lots.

[@realhorsegarage5359]

Pretty cool stuff I have the one wire only switch but it was broken off , where does it go to on other side of firewall?

[@IanKarr]

I believe it goes to the hand brake handle switch.

[@realhorsegarage5359]

@@IanKarr thanks I’ll check it out . Fun stuff

[@stevenhenry8743]

What kind of camera are you using for your videos? Is this your first 914?

[@IanKarr]

Hi Steven. It's my second 914. My first was a yellow 73 2.0. But I always loved ravenna green ;). I just shoot with an iphone and some mounting accesories

[@brianfox830]

Love All your videos Ian... This is probably a stupid question, but I have brake fluid leaking inside the car by the brake pedal (looks like it's coming out of the rubber boot)... Does this mean I need a new MC?... Also, is there any "wrong" way to get the Rod into the MC?... Meaning, the rod doesn't actually attach to anything inside the MC?... Thanks!

[@IanKarr]

Thanks, Brian! Sure sounds like it's coming from the MC. But tough to confirm without actually seeing it. As for the pushrod, yes there is a wrong way...you can make it too tight. There needs to be a gap between the end of the rod and the piston for the MC when the pedal is at rest. IIRC, the factory spec is 3mm. But of course you can't get a caliper in there ;). I've done it by just lengthening the pushrod / unscrewing it until it just touches the piston, then back off two turns. You may want to double check how far the pushrod moves per turn to be sure. And please remember I'm just an amateur wrencher and you should never experiment with brakes. I'm all for getting my hands dirty in the pursuit of experience but if you're not 100% confident, it never hurts to have a pro take a look and check your work. Good luck and be safe!

[@brianfox830]

@@IanKarr Thanks for the explanation... I am taking it very slowly, and am very aware when I feel like I'm getting in over my head... (Would love to see an Alternator/Harness repair video... I just performed that repair... Was Not Fun!)

[@brianfox830]

@@IanKarr Also, from looking at the leak, fluid is dripping directly out of the rubber boot in back of brake pedal... I assume over time, the MC internals break down, and fluid can leak past the piston

[@IanKarr]

@@brianfox830 Yep. Can also happen when the pushrod / piston hyper-extends. If you order a new MC from 914rubber, def get the easy install option ;)

[@TSCrihfield]

Ian, This is an awesome video! Are you on 914world? If not, care if I share this to the site?

[@IanKarr]

Hi Thomas. Glad you like the videos! Yes, I'm on 914world as "cuddy_k". Feel free to post as you like....

[@davidharris2706]

Where did you get the master cylinder fitted with that reservoir nozel fitting?

[@IanKarr]

David Harris 914rubber.com

[@kneedragger5255]

why exactly did you brake the seal at the flex line connecting to the reservoir?

[@IanKarr]

When removing the old MC, I think it's easier to detach the plastic tubes at the reservoir than to yank them out of the MC under the car. Twisting them a bit frees up the connection. Also a good time to replace those flex tubes if needed.

[@newvilla8115]

thanks man

[@IanKarr]

thank YOU!

[@Tmrfe0962]

Omg….with gas tank in and steering rack in place, this is nearly impossible….

[@IanKarr]

Definitely easier with them out...but not impossible ;)

[@newvilla8115]

how are the "metal grommets" attached to the body of the master cylinder? pressure or thread? thanks

[@IanKarr]

The barbs are threaded. Hope this helps!