Porsche 944 Clutch Change Episode 3: Installing the clutch

[@AlanShirtsink]

Best video I have seen on the process. Will definitely use it on my clutch change

[@kellyjohna]

This is by far the best 944 video I've seen. Very thorough, well thought out simple. I wish you would do one on removing the torque tube since I'm right inthe middle of it. This is even better than the German guy. I did strip a pressure plate bolt head and some cv joint bolts. Both were very dirty i was in a hurry and didnt clean them properly. Because cv bolt heads werent clean i thought they were torx instead of 12 point so i stripped a number of them and might have pinched the circular thingy next to the bolt head with my vice grips. Hopefully still usable. I have seen many of these videos and this is the best. I detected a bit of a Southern accent so I was glad to see a Southerner doing good.

[@edredas]

Thanks! Yeah, I'm from North Carolina. Where are you from?

[@kellyjohna]

Denton, Texas.

[@P1983sche]

Man, excellent videos! Wish you lived out in the Vegas area. You’re a wealth of knowledge on these 944s.

[@bman12three43]

If your pilot bearing is really stuck in there, you can hammer pieces of bread into the hole using a 3/8 extension ( or a socket with a bolt in it if you need a tighter fit) and it will get forced out.

[@edredas]

Yep, just did this yesterday and will be in an upcoming video...

[@foxfire429]

Awesome video! I just picked up an 86 NA and the job I started with was the clutch replacement (figured I'd kick it off with a big/long job). Your videos are great and they have been a HUGE help!

[@edredas]

Awesome! Glad to hear they've been helpful! Good Luck with your project!

[@foxfire429]

Quick question: I just finished up the clutch job and I'm moving on to replace the timing belt and water pump. Finding TDC is important and the OT mark on the flywheel is essential it seems. I now can't remember if I lined up the flywheel with anything else when putting it back in following replacing the rear main-seal. I went back and checked your video (as I'd used it often to reference the clutch job) and noticed that after marking your OT line with paint you also seemed to reinstall the flywheel without aligning it with anything. Was there some marker or notch I should have been referencing when putting the flywheel back on that I missed? I just want to make sure I'm able to set to TDC so I can feel confident about my timing belt change.

[@edredas]

There's a roll pin in the crank that lines up with the flywheel so its impossible to install the flywheel incorrectly. I hope that helps!

[@foxfire429]

edredas ah thanks! Great!

[@junkorbust9498]

Your videos are very fantastic. You gave me the confidence to buy one of these cars! I’m looking forward to playing with it this summer.

[@edredas]

Awesome! Thanks! Good luck with your purchase!

[@adolfoluna4864]

WOW THANKYOU SO MUCH FOR ALL THE INFORMATION ANDCHOW DISPLAY EVERYTHING THAMKYOU I HAVE A 1977 924 WITH A V8 LT1 THA I NEEDCT9 CHEANGE THE CLUTCH IF YOU DON'T MAIND WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED

[@edredas]

We are located outside Charlotte, NC. Thanks!

[@guido964rsmora2]

pretty nice but had question do you need mark flywheel top dead center in same position .that way when installing had same position !! topdead center

[@edredas]

There’s a locating pin in the crank that the flywheel locks into so the flywheel can’t be installed incorrectly. So the mark stamped on the crank will always point to TDC. I hope that helps!

[@rucebaybruce6174]

I am so thankful for these videos. Thanks Man!

[@craigtullius9613]

Thanks again for sharing this information.

[@edredas]

No problem! I hope you enjoyed it!

[@schillershop9036]

So you marked the OT mark with yellow paint. Doesn't the flywheel need to go in at the same position it came out? If you don't won't this throw off the timing if you ever try to replace the belts and use the mark? Or am I just confused?

[@edredas]

There’s a locating pin on the crank so the flywheel can only go on in the same spot. No way to install it incorrectly. I hope that helps!

[@schillershop9036]

Thanks. That makes sense. I am thinking of getting a 944 to work on with my son as a project.

[@cesarguzman6346]

I have another question lol. After I get the flywheel resurfaced, is it 100% necessary to get it rebalanced? If so, should it get balanced with the pressure plate bolted onto it, or can it just be balanced on its own? Also I’m planning to use a new pressure plate, so I don’t know if that’s gonna affect it too.

[@edredas]

There is no need to rebalance the flywheel after resurfacing.

[@cesarguzman6346]

@@edredas alright cool and thank you for these videos and reply’s, they are extremely helpful

[@austycup]

How does your clutch fork stay up like that mine will fall right out and I can’t get it behind the throw out bearing if I place it in the bell house and try to fish it

[@edredas]

It isn't easy and took me a few tries even with grease on it. Should be fairly snug when going on then the grease just helps it stay on just enough to get the bell housing back on. I hope that helps!

[@pinkyn0se]

Great series, but I'm surprised you reused the pressure plate. Seems a big risk to me considering the fact it's a big job. It must have been as old as the pressure plate and release bearing, and they were both destroyed. I think I'll be replacing all three pieces when I get to it as it will be a weekend car and won't want to risk having to do it again.

[@edredas]

Thanks! Yeah, it isn't ideal to reuse it but its mostly up to the owner if he wants to replace the pressure plate since isn't a wear item like the clutch disc. So long as it isn't warped, and there's no hot spots then its usually fine to reuse. If I find any damage such as that or if the fingers are bent or the drive straps are messed up then I'll throw another one in or suggest they buy a new one. It all depends on the situation. I never want to go back in there but many times there's its no issue with reusing it.

[@TaylorZalus]

Thank you for this great resource, my flywheel is at the machine shop getting resurfaced and I can't wait to get this thing back together. I live in the rust belt, is there anything that should or shouldn't get some never seize during reassembling to give the next guy an easier time? Obviously not flywheel or pressure plate bolts, but how about bell housing and torque tube bolts?

[@edredas]

Shouldn't have to, but a little anti-seize here and there shouldn't hurt. Especially on some of the smaller bolts where the zinc coating can come off and lead to steel to aluminum contact which can cause issues. The anti-seize should help prevent such problems. That said, the only thing I can think of is already covered in the videos already and that is using a moly based grease instead of the lithium grease on the clutch fork pin. The factory used lithium grease which has a tendency to dry out and make it harder to remove, whereas the moly based grease should last for years. I hope that helps!

[@christiantaylor3516]

I cannot for the life of me get a torque wrench in to crank the belhousing bolts. How did you do it and get accurate torque? Or should I just use grunt force?

[@edredas]

Might need an extra hand getting them tight since it's pretty tight down there. I would just use a smooth movement while turning rather than too much grunt force since I have seen the ears on the block where those bolts go in crack and even break off before. Good luck!

[@astv7668]

what's your opinion on using an aluminum flywheel for street driving? pros and cons.

[@edredas]

The weight of the flywheel helps keep momentum of the engine. Especially when releasing the clutch from a stop. Four cylinder engines especially need help since their firing frequency is very far apart compared to other engine configurations. These particular engines are loaded down with weights to help smooth them out and make them “luxurious”. Racing four cylinders do not use any weights so the rev ridiculously fast but will shake your teeth out. They also aren’t stopping at red lights and living their life at 7k rpm. So don’t really expect your engine to rev quicker with just a light weight wheel, you’d need a lot of work that will just make it a headache to drive on the street. Pros: not really any on a street engine. Cons: easier to stall out. I hope that helps!

[@cliveblowers709]

Great videos on the 944, I am looking at one this weekend that needs a new clutch. What is the OT mark on the flywheel that you marked with yellow paint?

[@edredas]

Awesome! The OT mark is needed to set the timing when changing the timing belt. The mark can be rather hard to find due to rust and dirt so it never hurts to make it more visible. Good luck!

[@cliveblowers709]

So it’s probably best to put witness marks on the fly wheel and the engine so that when the flywheel goes back on it is lined up properly?

[@edredas]

Luckily, there is a locating pin in the crank, so it isn't possible to put the flywheel on incorrectly. So all you need to do is mark the flywheel and when you line it up with that pin it will always show the the OT mark when it is at TDC.

[@papasmurf986]

Thanks so much for all your hard work in documening this. I have an early 85 I am trying to resurrect (been sitting for quite a while) and am in the process of resealing my steel fuel tank as it is rusted and causing a lot of issues with the fuel system and consistency. I currently have the tank out being "derusted" before doing the POR-15 sealer, so the transmission is out and rear exhaust. The car shows 85k miles but I suspect the odometer is broke or has rolled over. I have never driven the car but the previous owner did drive it onto a trailer that I hauled it home on so the clutch is physically there. How much more time/effort is it to get to the clutch from where I am at now? I am debating whether to check it or not just in the chance it could still have the rubber centered clutch since the mileage is suspect and maintenance history is long gone.

[@edredas]

At that point I think you should go for it. What you have already done is a good 50% of the job. So there is a ways to go but will be worth it in the future! Good luck!

[@cesarguzman6346]

I need to get my flywheel resurfaced, and I know that you need to resurface the friction surface, as well as the outer surface where the pressure plate bolts on. Do both the friction surface and outer surface need to be resurfaced the exact same amount? Because I’m not sure how and what to ask the machine shop.

[@edredas]

There isn't any way to resurface the pressure plate itself since it has a spring on it. Just make sure its clean and if its too rusty it should be replaced with a new one. I hope that helps!

[@NC944er]

Hey Brent! I’m seeing various anecdotal reports on the forums regarding rear main seals and their reliability, some saying the black colored ones hold up better than the red/orange ones and vice versa. Is there any truth to that in your experience? Do you recommend one brand over another? Thanks!

[@edredas]

Not sure about the orange. I have only ever used Victor Rienz rear main seals. Never had one leak but I would think it’s all down installation. They are not easy to install and bend easily. So I have had to throw some away. One thing I also do to make sure seals last longer is use a mix of red assembly lube with a little oil. With this concoction I no longer see any of the seals scoring the front collars and the seals last much longer.

[@NC944er]

@@edredas Great tip, thank you sir!

[@ez_forman]

Great video edredas! did you replace your pressure plate as well? I have everything disassembled and Im having trouble deciding whether or not to replace it as well. Is there a way to test the integrity of my current pressure plate?

[@edredas]

I reused the pressure plate since it was in good condition. There really isn't a way to test the integrity of the plate but you can visually inspect the drive straps and the fingers for cracking. That will tell you if it can be reused for the most part. I hope that helps!

[@perryvandekasteel3623]

How can i find this type of glutch plate i also have a 944 but my garage cant find the right one can you please help me with information

[@edredas]

I made a video on buying and making one of these discs. That said, this was years ago when discs went easily available. Not there’s places like California custom clutch that makes a disc that’s only about $150. This will save you a lot of time. I hope that helps!

[@zer0.her017]

Would this video help with a 924 that was swapped with a 944 engine? Or is the clutch in a different area

[@edredas]

Yep, if it has a 944 engine then it will likely have the 944 clutch setup. Good luck!

[@029mytube]

I have a 1983 non turbo. What would cause it to start run for about a min and then just shut off? It does need a new clutch.

[@edredas]

Could be either a vacuum leak or a fuel issue. Check all the vacuum lines that you can and feel around under the intake to see if any have come off or cracked. Sometimes you may have to remove the intake to be sure. That said, it could also be the fuel pressure regulator, however most of the time the car can stay running but just run rough. I hope that helps!

[@lbgarage4719]

I was following your video for installation and I took the engine out of the top to do the clutch. We are going to install the new clutch kit and now the clutch fork will not align in the bell housing to push the pin back into the place and reinstall engine. Do you have any ideas on why the fork will not go back in. I am using a Sachs clutch kit and have changed the rear main seal and bearings and clutch fork bearings./ thank you for your help in advance.

[@edredas]

Hmm. Not sure exactly what the problem might be. That said I’ve never done it that way since if you remove the cross member then it’s easer imo to drop it out the bottom. I have seen where people go out the top with the pressure plate off but this can warp the plate and why Porsche wants you to drop it out the bottom with the bell housing on. Perhaps if you’ve already bolted up the pressure plate it may have to come back off again so you can install the fork first. I hope that helps!

[@jeffwise8872]

can I go up with the fork pin I broke the 8mm 1.25 in the fork pin

[@edredas]

It can only come out through the bottom... there is no hole on the top side. Sounds Aweful, good luck!

[@indes124]

I did the same and not that you probably haven't already solved this, but there's a grey pin that's at a 9 o'clock position from the torque tube entry into the bell housing. Beat it into the housing using a punch or screw driver, then knock the clutch fork retainer pin out the top end from the bottom. Or you can undo the fly wheel bolts holding the pressure plate in place through the starter hole, and pull down the whole assembly with the fork and retainer pin still in place, then fix it on the bench.