Porsche 944 - Timing & Balance Shaft Belt Replacement Tutorial (Spring Tensioner / ArnnWorx Tool)

[@frankharo4875]

Two weeks ago I replaced my timing belt balance and accessories belts following the directions on your video. Thank You for the great videos. I have a1986

[@NC944er]

That’s awesome man, congratulations on getting it done! 👍🏼

[@frankharo4875]

After the replacement the engine works great and iddles perfect. But for some reason the check engine light you know the red exclamation mark and the upside down triangle turn on and off intermittently especially on a rough road. What do you think is causing this?

[@NC944er]

@@frankharo4875 That sounds like the parking brake warning light. The large red light with the ! Is the central warning light. It will illuminate for a variety of issues, but is usually accompanied by another light indicating what the issue is. There is a push-button switch at the base of the parking brake lever. Make sure it’s aligned correctly and try to push the parking brake all the way down. It’s possible the lever is bouncing up slightly on rough roads, which would jiggle the switch around.

[@frankharo4875]

Happy Friday. I don’t this the brake warning. I disconnect the cable and the exclamation light and the upside down triangle light still lightning intermittently

[@Owl-ge9jl]

You have no clue how useful these videos are. It's like you're re-creating the tutorials on websites like pelican parts. Thanks a bunch!

[@robertbutrymowicz3182]

Outstanding video!! As a new 944 owner, I was just about to tackle this based on existing instructions in other places. But I am MUCH more confident about the job after seeing this video. Very clear cut and concise instructions with great explanations, showing the process from start to finish. Thanks for posting this!!! Look forward to more of your videos!!

[@NC944er]

Welcome to the club! 👍🏼 Appreciate the feedback and best of luck to you.

[@thetruth944]

This is probably the best video for performing this maintenance. It gave me a warm and fuzzy to tackle this job on my 944S. I'd say taking my time and doing some engine bay cleaning at the same time, took me about 7 hours. Most difficult part is having to get under the car to remove accessory belts, cooling fans, and starter. But overall not a bad job like it's made out to be. Thanks again.

[@NC944er]

Yeah man! It is a larger job with some complexity, but it’s really just made up of a bunch of little jobs that can be tackled step by step… and I too am getting tired of removing and reinstalling my starter. 😂 I no longer disconnect the wiring. I just support it to the exhaust with a bungee cable after dismounting it from the bell housing.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

I'm in the process of getting this done for my 944S. Sure the video is great, but is there anything specific for 944S? If possible @thetruth944 can you share your experience. Thanks in advance to both of you.🙏

[@brianwoodstock2344]

The best 944 belt replacement video this side of the Pecos!

[@deltuckunder3966]

This is incredibly helpful. Thank you! I'm bringing my '86 944 back to the road this year after several years sitting under covers following an MOT fail. These videos are exactly what I was looking for.

[@NC944er]

That seems to be the story for quite a few of these. They are a bit sensitive to ignition condition. I’m lucky there are no emissions tests required in my area. I would replace all the basic stuff - air filter, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, wires - to get it firing as clean as possible. Fresh oil may even give a marginal edge... and really get on the accelerator on the way to the MOT to clean it out. 🤣 The AFM also loses its calibration over the years, which affects the air/fuel mixture. I’d like to convert to a MAF setup at some point. Anyway, best of luck and hope you get it back on the road!

[@tvguy12346]

MOT?

[@deltuckunder3966]

@@tvguy12346 It's the annual road-worthyness test in the UK (Ministry of Transport)

[@NC944er]

@@tvguy12346 The MOT test (Ministry of Transport) is an annual vehicle safety/emissions test requirement in the U.K. Basically the U.S. equivalent of our individual state safety inspections.

[@nicolaserne7147]

Just bought an 85 944 this summer and started restoring it. You have no idea how helpful your channel is, thank you so much for your content man! At first I thought the timing belt change was gonna be challenging, turns out the most challenging thing on this car is putting the block coolant purge back on 😂

[@NC944er]

Hey man, that’s awesome news, I’m glad the channel is helping out! Pretty much all the 944’s suffer from the same issues over time, and I’ve documented nearly every repair I’ve done on mine, so it’s almost a one-stop-shop for advice, which is what I was going for. And yes, the engine block drain plug is in a very poor location. 😁

[@iamthesentinel584]

Easily the best 944 video on youtube. Great work! I'll be using your guide on my 1984 944

[@NC944er]

Thanks man, best of luck! 👍🏼

[@arnaudehrhart8213]

Excellent video, amazing picture quality and top clear content, many thanks. I'll do it myslef on my S2 soon as finding a good & reliable specialist is quite impossible anymore.

[@rrassoc]

Thank you so much for all of your videos. I've replaced my belts and seals, including the o-rings in the oil cooler housing on my S2. The only issue was a slight squeal from my alternator/AC belt!

[@NC944er]

Yeah, that ribbed belt runs pretty tight. It sounds like you’re making great progress on the car. I’m glad you found the content useful! Cheers!

[@mustachemotorcycles1394]

This is very god information, and quality video. Thank you! I highly recommend inspecting Oil pump drive gear and front engine seal. Especially on cars lacking manintenance history. My engine was leaking from the front and I decided to order an oil pump drive gear just in case. Good call as it was severely grooved.

[@hairless4689]

Thank u! Just got one that needs some work. All your videos are helping

[@kostys550gt2]

This a great video - I have a 1986 944 I'm taking ownership of in the near future from my parents. 19k and the belt has only been done once in the past. This is the first thing I want to do in my new garage but was extremely nervous as I've never messed with timing components on any vehicle. Trying to find an independent shop to take it in my area has proved fruitless, and I don't trust dealerships (besides the overinflated costs).

[@NC944er]

Sounds like you’ll be initiated soon enough then. 😂 Best of luck, hope it turns out great!

[@FueledBy.Passion]

Sir, thank you for taking time to make this great video. Keep up the good work!👍

[@jonathans7265]

Wow! I'm also in NC and am so thrilled to have found your exceptional videos! I have owned my 1990 944S2 since 1999, but it hasn't been on the road since 2014 due to much needed maintenance. I have just begun the process of changing the timing belt and have the full Maxi set of Arnworx tools. So far, I have inserted the flywheel lock. Next up are the accessory belts. I look forward to watching this video in its entirety before I continue. Clarks Garage has served me well for years, and the Pelican Parts site also is of great help, but there is nothing like a good video! And, oh my... your engine bay is so clean! :)

[@NC944er]

Awesome! One bolt at a time and you’ll get there. 👍🏼 Best of luck and glad you found it helpful!

[@micalkiler]

Great video!, Very well explained and keeps the uninciated (like me) comfortable to do this job. Just bought one and already looking to start working on it, it will be my first timibg belt job. Thank you.

[@NC944er]

Sounds like a fun learning experience! Best of luck and I hope the car turns out great! 👍🏼

[@nikoarchon4212]

Awesome work on replacing timing belt far best one online bravo

[@NC944er]

Thanks!

[@fastcarslo]

Thanks for a great video - super helpful and I love how enviably clean, shiny and new your whole engine bay looks!

[@glow9999]

Great info on the replacement of timing belt and balance shaft belt..and accessories associated with them.

[@douglasmartinez2756]

Thanks so much for this excellent tutorial. I feel much better about doing this on my 87 951. Cheers from Holly Springs NC and Happy Holidays!!

[@NC944er]

Nice! Greetings from Graham, NC and happy holidays to you!

[@michaeldennis6088]

Your channel is absolutely priceless. Your car is unbelievably new looking. I have referenced this video to replace my water pump ( and belts). It was invaluable. My only concern is when my engine is running there is a whine sound. I wonder if one of the belts is too tight ???

[@NC944er]

Hey Mike, thank you for the comments! An overtightened belt could create a whining sound as you describe. There is a lot of belt noise in general with 944s that you don’t typically hear on other cars, and most of it comes from the balance shaft belt. When set correctly, the balance shaft belt is much looser than the timing belt, and so it’s often overtightened by mistake. The idler roller could also be set too high and creating excess noise in that area. You could try narrowing down the location of the sound using a mechanic’s stethoscope.

[@875-performance4]

Nice explaining video. Question from where you getting all your those shiny new parts?

[@NC944er]

Thank you! In short, I removed all the steel components from the engine, had them bead blasted, and re-plated in yellow zinc. Here’s a video from the channel that talks a little more about the process if you’re interested - kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6jUmKWOh7mmrqMfeature=shared

[@GreasyFingers]

Good day, finding this film is worth a mint. Thanks for an EXCELLENT production. Can I ask you please: you platted all the pulleys except the main one for the generator. Is there any reason for this except originality?

[@NC944er]

@@GreasyFingers Hey, thank you! No real reason for not plating that pulley other than it was still on the engine when I took everything in, and I didn’t feel like removing it at the time. You certainly could have it plated if you wanted to.

[@jimmccarthy6015]

Excellent tutorial, I just bought a 944 that has not been driven for 19 years. This is on my list to do among other items before I try and fire it up. Can you let me know where you got the tensioning tool, and flywheel lock kit from? Thanks

[@NC944er]

Sounds like a fun project! I purchased the Maxi Kit from Arnnworx when I got the car. Here’s a link… www.arnnworx.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=188

[@retroclassicfleet]

Very clear guidance Thank you

[@MrStroller4u]

began to dismantle the front end of the engine, found that balance shaft is off timing by 4 teeth. last time belt was done in 1998 at 125K the car has 159k. glad to know that the engine can run smoother once im done.

[@NC944er]

Haha, yeah that’s not terribly uncommon. Should smooth it out a bit once you’ve got it set right. Good luck! 👍🏼

[@MrStroller4u]

@@NC944er placed engine in TDC and the cam gear is off by one tooth.

[@NC944er]

You are finding lots of surprises with this one! One tooth off shouldn’t have damaged the valvetrain, which is good, but would have a loss of compression and performance. Should be interesting to see the difference once you have it all squared away!

[@ryanfay1]

Great tutorial, thanks!

[@glockmeister3579]

I appreciate your video you were a ton of help

[@FordSVTContour]

Excellent tutorial. Well done!

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Amazing video. Your car is so clean. I’m in Georgia, would be cool to meet and ride some mountain roads brother

[@abones7243]

Knocking this out later on tonight 🙌🏾 thank you!

[@abones7243]

@nc944er done deal! First time go. At first it whined a bit more than usual, removed the cover, re-adjusted the balance belt 🙏🏽 went on a cruise all day yesterday, good to go! Thank you so much.

[@abones7243]

Oh hey! Car still running awesome. Doing an oil change as we speak! 🤙🏽👌🏽

[@manstersr]

Well done. It's like a video version of a Clymer manual. Thanks. I feel I should mention to others watching that it is advisable to loosen the pivot bolts on the PS pump and A/C compressor. I think you forgot to mention that when you were explaining the steps, even though you did it when you loosened the tensioners up. I couldn't find the Arnnworx tension guage but did find one on Pelican Parts then that same one on Amazon by a different name but looked identical for half the price. If it's not too expensive, I think I'd prefer the Arnnworx one, could anyone provide a link to where it can be purchased?

[@NC944er]

@@manstersr Thanks! Yeah, it’s important to loosen the pivot bolts on the power steering pump and AC compressor to avoid damaging the brackets. I mentioned this step at 6:10 in the video before demonstrating the belt removal process. Bruce Arnn of ArnnWorx retired over a year ago and closed down his tool business. Sometimes you can find a used tensioner tool on eBay, but new ones are no longer available. There’s also a 3D printed tool option on CarPokes - kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3Tcf4Ktm9KKrckfeature=shared

[@PhillipBailey]

Excellent video!

[@burnedsheep9142]

Nice work . Thumbs up❤

[@rrassoc]

Question: Is it proper to let the timing belt tensioner completely 'loose' onto the belt? I've seen so many comments about the 90° twist method of determining proper tension, but was never sure whether that only applied to the earlier models that don't have spring tensioners. Fir this reason, I set my tensioner a little loose. I always planned to reevaluate both belts after 500-1,000 miles of driving, where I'm currently nearing. Thanks for all you do here!

[@NC944er]

The force applied to the timing belt by the later spring tensioner in its natural position after being “let loose” is a good starting point and will generally get the belt “close” to the correct tension, but that should always be checked using a measurement tool and adjusted as needed (or 90° twist for those comfortable with that method). Due to variances across parts and metal fatigue that can cause old coil springs to fall out of specification, the spring tensioners should not be considered auto-tensioners, but they do make setting the correct belt tension slightly easier than the early eccentric tensioners, in my opinion.

[@stuartwatson6849]

Not to be a pest here-but missing in your tutorials is the water-pump replacement. Assuming yours was recently done and you simply don't need one yet! It looks to be more complicated than timing/balance shaft belts, so I look forward-to your video-whenever that service presents itself!

[@NC944er]

Yeah, I replaced the water pump in July of 2019. I have a few pictures of the process, but no video. It’s basically a timing belt job plus a few extra steps - gotta remove the balance and camshaft sprockets in order to remove the rear belt cover, then the pump can be accessed.

[@wangdango12]

Great videos! How come your power steering belt has the v ribs on the outside of the pulley and not on the inside? Sorry if you explained this already.

[@NC944er]

Hey! There are a couple different v-belt designs from various belt manufacturers, one of which has ribs on the outer surface, and most of which have ribs/notches cut into the inside surface. The one shown here was a Dayco belt as I recall, where they “claim” the top cog design delivers more flexibility and increases airflow around the belt, so it runs cooler and lasts longer than competitors. Functionally though, I’ve never personally observed any differences. The Porsche OEM v-belts have notches on the inside edge and they seem to work fine.

[@hondatsunfan1011]

Very informative and clear!

[@winstonmartin6179]

that car is clean

[@zestydude87]

Loving your videos... I live in NC also. Do you ever go to any meets or Porsche events?

[@NC944er]

Thanks! I’ve checked out the First Saturday event at Porsche Southpoint a couple times, but otherwise have been trying to knock out other projects on the weekend. Wish I had more time!

[@johnj2618]

Excellent.

[@matthewcoulters48]

Hi, thanks again for making these videos. I did have a quick question; would you recommend putting any loctite on the roller studs for the balance belts? One of my studs backed out when I was loosening a nut.

[@NC944er]

@@matthewcoulters48 Based upon my experience with snapped studs in the engine block, I would be more inclined to clean up the outer threads really well for easier movement of the nut or replace the affected hardware with new parts and then install, torque, and go.

[@gawsies]

Which timing belt kit and water pump kit would you recommend for an early 944? Brand? Gates, cont. , uro?

[@NC944er]

I went with the URO water pump as there are a fair number of accounts from other 944 owners on the forums conveying general reliability. Mine has been running for 4 years without any issues. Given the relatively higher price of the Porsche OEM pump, I considered the fact that I could go through 3 URO pumps for the same price if a problem arose. As for belts, I've used Continental and Gates, where both appear to be of similar quality and I have no negative issues to report with either brand. 944Online or Pelican Parts can set you up with kits to include everything you need.

[@saltykeel]

Very helpful. Question, my '87 944 does not have a guide plate or the mounting "bosses" that it bolts to. This is slowing down the belt replacement process - what to do!

[@NC944er]

The metal guide plate was added later on to prevent the two teethed sections of the belt from rubbing together and damaging the timing belt. The plate mounts to the water pump, so if your pump doesn’t have the two mounting points, it sounds like your car has the early version pump installed, in which case you’d have to replace the water pump and add in a guide plate. The car will run without the plate, it’s just a preventative measure added by Porsche after observing some belt failure issues.

[@glockmeister3579]

One more thing should I replace the teninsor

[@NC944er]

If you have the later spring tensioner, most people don’t replace that entire unit unless it’s significantly damaged as it costs around $500. However, it’s recommended that the roller on the tensioner be replaced every other belt change or if it’s loud when you spin it. The roller is basically the gear and bearing, which costs about $20. I’d you have the early tensioning roller (before 1987), those follow the same rule as the roller on the spring tensioner - replace if loud when spun or every other belt change.

[@galainautos4797]

Hola, acabo de comprar un 944 del 1985. Voy a cambiar las bandas tambien quiero reemplazar labbomba de agua, mi pregunta es si la bomba de agua siempre esta en la misma ubicación o cambia con los modelos diferentes ?

[@NC944er]

Hola, felicidades por tu compra! La bomba de agua está ubicada en la misma posición frontal en todas las variantes del motor 944.

[@drush3452]

Great reference tutorial!!! Any suggestions for a stuck starter bolt (the front 19mm one). I’ve tried everything from a floor jack on a wrench to a torch, but it hasn’t moved. Before I grab a chisel, do you have any better ideas? I can’t install the flywheel lock until it’s out. Thanks!

[@NC944er]

Shoot! Yeah, penetrating spray, heat, and brute force is the way to go. See if you can spray the threads on the tip of the bolt that goes into the starter bracket. They poke out just a little right above the solenoid. Some “wake up” hits of a hammer if you can get the right angle. I’ve also found that the closed end of a combination wrench sits more evenly than a socket for that bolt.

[@stuartwatson6849]

Again-excellent job here- Thank you! My car just a month into it with 111k miles had water pump, belts, pullys, etc replaced 4k miles ago by PO. However, it was mid-year 2017. At the very least I need to check tension on the belts. Is it necessary to remove the cooling fan housing to remove the upper timing belt front cover to inspect belts? And if not, can I do a quick inspection on the belts with just the upper belt cover off or do both upper and lower covers need to be removed? Thanks in advance! Stuart

[@NC944er]

Nice! The belt condition is still probably decent after 4 years unless it was stored in very poor conditions where it could dry out and crack, but it’s definitely worth a check. The top cover can be removed without removing the cooling fan assembly, which will allow for a visual inspection of belt condition and possibly a tension reading, but you won’t be able to make any adjustments unless you remove the accessory belts along with the lower belt cover. I think the mileage factor is more impactful than age of the belt, within reason. The most die hard of enthusiasts adhere to the 2-year rule, but I’ve heard some Porsche mechanics claim the belts are better made now and can run for 6 years. Unless I were very familiar with the vehicle history, I probably wouldn’t go beyond 5 years on the timing belt, but who really knows. 😂

[@stuartwatson6849]

@@NC944er Thanks for that-and I agree. Prior to my purchase, Car was stored inside in the very mild (70's) climate of Orange County, So Cal. The last belt change/service was done with the best parts-Conti belts, a new radiator, PS hi-pressure hose, new fuel dampener line, clutch slave cylinder and hard-line, etc. So no skimping by PO who owns a luxury car business and this was his own vehicle. I JUST put 1000 miles on it in 2 days and it ran flawlessly. I would like the peace of mind to visually inspect the belts and get a twist test on them if I can manage without tearing too much apart. I have a carport-not an enclosed garage but somehow make it work!

[@tims_4x4_garage]

The arnnworx tool is throwing me off here so I have a question. I’ve got my timing belt on (brand new Porsche oem) and the tensioner is all the way out/tight. I’ve rotated the crank 2x and then backed it off 10°. My belt is tight, I can barely get it to 90° twist but my 920x says my belt is very loose. It’s calibrated to .166 and the belt reading is .189. I can’t get the belt any tighter because my tensioner is all the way out but I feel like my belt is plenty tight as is.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

I think I’m just using the tool wrong.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Yea I was interpreting the instructions incorrectly. I think I got it figured out

[@NC944er]

If you can barely twist the belt to 90° with decent force, I would back off the tension, complete the crank cycle again (with 10° reverse), and double check. But to your point as well, the instructions can be a bit confusing until you get a flow down. 😂

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er I think I got it. It’s on the loose side for a new belt, which is a little tighter than a used belt. Ended up backing the tensioner off just a smidge. Used a box cutter blade (.5mm thickness) to set my balance shaft idler clearances. Just put brand new covers on and everything is looking sexy

[@NC944er]

@@tims_4x4_garage Nice! I didn’t find that mine had really loosened up much after the 2,000-mile break in period. In a pinch, I’ve also used a piece of cereal box to set the roller clearance. 🤣 Sounds like you’ll be back up and running before long. 👍🏼

[@richardredfern937]

Great videos, thank you!

[@jimchristensen3543]

I have an '89 S2, see13:43 ; mine has an additional lower idler pulley that blocks access to that 'hidden' bolt on the tensioner. It's difficult to get a wrench onto the 17mm idler pulley bolt because the flywheel pulleys are just a little bit in the way. I think an offset box wrench will work to remove that lower idler, then I should be able to access that last tensioner bolt. -off to buy more wrenches. (later) If you don't have a 'thin' 17mm offset box wrench, buy the Harbor Freight (or other) cheap one and grind it down to thin it out, then that lower idler pulley can be removed allowing access to that lower tensioner bolt, and the T belt comes off without removing the pulleys. A higher quality wrench might already be thin enough.

[@NC944er]

Hey Jim, yeah there a couple differences with the 16v engines. You may have the pull the crank shaft bolt and the larger drive belt pulleys in order to remove the lower idler roller… but it’s always nice to have more tools as well. 😂 Best of luck sir!

[@alantholz6118]

Great videos. Did you use loctite on any other roller or sprocket other then the timing belt idler pulley. Thanks

[@NC944er]

Thank you! Nope, that idler was the only one I’ve used it on… and after working on the car for the past 3 years I’m starting to think that the prior owner just didn’t tighten that bolt to proper specs.

[@michaeldennis6088]

By the way. Keep up the good work 👌

[@frankharo4875]

Can you read check engine codes? I checked my my oil bulb cable and one loose and now the light is on all the time

[@WDonnelly-k1r]

I have a question - I was doing the water pump replacement and using your video as well as some others - thank you up front for your videos - they are great. My question is that when I got to the point of putting the timing belt back on - the suggestion is to rotate the crank a couple of times and watch the cam gear to see if the timing marks line up. Well I cannot move my crank - ?? I was able to move it prior to starting the replacement process - I replaced the water pump - so no fluid is left in engine - or just a small about that doesn't flow out. Also I did use the flywheel lock tool once the #1 was at top dead center - and the marks not he cam gear etc were in the proper locations. Cannot understand why crank won't move - has been a month since it last moved. Any thoughts ?/ Thanks in advance Bill

[@WDonnelly-k1r]

should say on the cam gear --- not not he cam

[@NC944er]

@@WDonnelly-k1r Hey Bill, assuming that you’ve removed the flywheel lock prior to attempting to rotate the engine, it would be difficult to suggest what may be happening without inspecting the car firsthand. My recommendation would be to go back through and confirm that each component was installed correctly.

[@WDonnelly-k1r]

@@NC944er Thanks for replying - I finally found out what the problem was - the timing gear on the crank shaft was installed the wrong way - wrong side facing me - when I installed it the other way around - it worked - was able to turn the crank.

[@jockellis]

Did you have your tensioner and such re-yellow chromated? I tried doing it myself but it doesn’t look so hot. But since it will be covered up, who cares? I really needed this vid because my timing gear has been apart for seven years and I needed to replace the plastic case because it had a hole in it when I bought it on eBay in 2009. Just never got around to it with so many other projects needing my attention.

[@NC944er]

Yes sir! I threw the tensioner and all the steel gears and plates in with the batch of stuff for yellow zinc plating. It looks pretty cool, but to your point, nobody will ever see it. 😂 Although for a time, someone was selling clear plastic aftermarket belt covers for the 944 so the casual viewer could see all the little bits moving around.

[@jockellis]

@@NC944er As I said, mine didn’t look anything like your chromated parts. How about a video on your work in this. I guess NC means North Carolina. Have you ever been to the Chasing the Tail of the Dragon hill climb?

[@NC944er]

@@jockellis There’s another video on the channel that showcases the before and after engine bay restoration and talks about the approach, but I didn’t DIY the zinc plating. The cleaner the parts are, the better the plating will apply, so I had everything glass bead blasted and then a local metal plating company applied the zinc for $100. I do live in North Carolina and Tail of the Dragon is pretty well known. It’s located about 5 hours from me, so I haven’t yet checked it out.

[@jockellis]

@@NC944er I should have bead blasted rather than soda blast, I guess.

[@jmg4620]

Super video, merci de la Belgique

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Have you done the balance shaft covers/ rear seals yet? I got one (lower) leaking pretty badly. Not looking forward to repairing it but the silver lining is the car needs motor mounts too, so “while I’m in there”

[@NC944er]

It’s tight quarters down there so I don’t blame you. I’ve only done the front seals so far, luckily no leaks at the rear presently. If you didn’t need engine mounts, it would be tempting to just RTV the rear seal, but since you’re already there… 👍🏼

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er I’m ashamed to say that I RTV’d the crap out of the rear seal today. Lmao. But my car was just down for two months while I did A TON of work to it. This leak just popped up this weekend and i really just want to enjoy the car for a while before I park it again

[@NC944er]

@@tims_4x4_garage No shame in finding balance in life. LOL! Feels like more of a January/February job anyway. 😂

[@RestorationApprentice]

great, great tutorial!

[@crs290]

When you twisted the belt, how close was that to what you found with the actual tool?

[@NC944er]

I don’t exactly recall for this instance, it varies a little each time, but it’s generally “fairly” close. I’ve done it so many times now, I could probably get by on a 90° twist, as I’ve gotten used to the feel of it, but since I have the tool on hand, I usually throw it on there anyway.

[@glockmeister3579]

Is it really necessary to have the flywheel lock when doing the water pump? I do timing belts "2 per week "roughly on other vehicles so I am experienced but this will be my first Porsche belt. In other words I can hold my crank with a chain wrench while taking out the bolt and I should be good right?

[@NC944er]

I try to follow the factory recommended procedures whenever possible, so I have not attempted the water pump job without the flywheel lock. The challenge I see is that the crankshaft bolt is torqued to 150 ft/lbs. I used a 5-foot cheater bar to break the bolt free the last time I did the job. Some people also use a floor jack to lift the wrench against the weight of the car. If your chain wrench setup could withstand that force and also not snap back in the other direction when the bolt breaks free, I guess it might be possible. The flywheel lock alone costs $55 and I love a good excuse to add new tools to my collection, so if it were me, I would pick one up. Then you would have confidence that the job is done safely and accurately. Best of luck!

[@fredbobberts5753]

No -but yes if you change the crank oil main seal

[@MrUglyDinosaur]

I’ve been chasing this vibration around 4200-4500 in my 84 for so long.. I suspected balance shafts were off so I took it to the shop to confirm and sure enough they told me it was, so they adjusted it however I drove home and the vibrations persist. I notice that it occurs when clutched in or not, in gear or not, whether moving or not. This vibration is mostly felt in my gear lever and if my hand isn’t on it, I almost don’t notice the vibrations but it’s definitely a concerning feeling. Do you have any idea what it could be?

[@NC944er]

@@MrUglyDinosaur Have you checked your engine mounts? When they fail, they create quite a bit of vibration.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

Hey @NC944er, is it worth getting the factory 9201 tool for $600 at present time? Is it a good price? Should I buy it? Some people keep saying 90° and water pump method will give the best result, as its not described properly how to use factory tool for a twin cam engine.

[@NC944er]

The P9201 retails for well over $1,000 now and I’m seeing a used one available on eBay for $825, so $600 is a good price. If you plan to keep the car for the long term and continue to do your own maintenance, the tool would be a good investment that you could always resell down the road if you get rid of the car. For me, I’ve never really been able to turn my water pump pulley after the belt is properly tensioned, tested with both a 90° method as well as the Arnnworx tool. I will say that after it’s set with the tensioning tool, the belt “seems” to twist at about 90° with moderate finger/thumb pressure. There are people who claim to have used the 90° twist for 20 years with no issues. I think it’ll generally get you close enough to function, it’s just not precise without a measurement tool, so there’s always that little bit of risk. Although the 16v engines use a slightly different timing belt (wider / additional teeth), my understanding is the tensioning process is the same.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@@NC944er you mentioned for 16V, tensioning process will be same, and I agree. But what should be the value that I need to refer? Can't find data on Internet on this. I took my car to porsche center to confirm everything is correct, they said its all correct but I'm not sure they know how to use the tool, if at all they used it. Because that center was recently opened and mechs are kind of new I'm guessing here. Its just that I'm not just happy yet, a doubt exists. What if I use my current set up as the reference, get the tool and take readings from it to identify the actual reference point the tool shows and then that will be the value that I'll use going forward. I, for now at least, plan to never sell the car.

[@NC944er]

@@Sivaprasad.t.g The tension value should be the same for all 944 models according the Clark’s Garage… Tension specs: New belt - 4.0 ±0.3 Used belt - 2.7 ±0.3 I’m not seeing a separate tension spec in the factory workshop manual for the 16v engines, so my guess is it’s the same.

[@MentalPolution]

where do you find info on how to remove and re assemble these engine parts? Should I get the Chiltens book for the car or is there a better one to use?

[@NC944er]

Some people will pick up the Haynes manual for general repairs and maintenance, but a lot of folks reference online resources. I’ll include a link to digital copies of the factory workshop manuals below, which are good for technical specs and high level considerations. The remaining gaps can be filled in with technical articles on Clark’s Garage and Pelican Parts, along with user forums. p914-6info.net/944%20Manuals.html

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Have you done balance shaft seals yet? I just did my camshaft seals (using your vid) and I am about to tackle the front main seal and balance shaft seals. Any tips? Clarks garage mentions the two balance shaft seals are different but he doesn’t mention how to identity the two. Maybe it will be obvious when I get it apart.

[@NC944er]

Yeah, they are two different sizes for whatever reason. 😂 The upper balance shaft seal is a 30x47mm ring seal (999-113-282-40) and it’s actually the same seal used for the camshaft. The lower balance shaft seal is a 30x48mm (999-113-281-40). I replaced mine a couple years back as they were seeping a bit. Popped them out with the drill/screw method. For the crankshaft seal, just use a BIG breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, it will loosen up with a nice loud CRACK! It’s torqued to 155 ft/lbs when it goes back on. Wrap some high grit sandpaper (600 or above) to the end of the crankshaft to smooth it out and remove any buildup, that will make removal and installation of the pulleys a lot easier. Inspect the harmonic balancer for cracks - sometimes the serpentine belt pulley can separate from the balance shaft belt sprocket. Some folks also replace the oil pump drive gear (sleeve) and o-ring while they’re down there.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er thanks for the tips. I bought a kit of all the seals so I’ll take a set of calipers to them and verify which seal is which. I’m currently trying to get the cam gear off of the crankshaft. My stubby impact didn’t break a sweat on the crank bolt and My pulley puller pulled the balance shaft pulley without any drama but the cam gear doesn’t have threads in it to use a pulley puller on.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er also, in referencing van svensons video on the front crank seal, it would appear that my cam gear is installed backward on the crankshaft. I’m sure that has nothing to do with it being difficult to remove, just interesting to note

[@NC944er]

@@tims_4x4_garage Ha! Yeah, it’s always interesting to see what people have done to these cars over the years. I’m surprised the belt didn’t run off track, but I guess all the other pulleys/rollers were enough to keep it in line.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er definitely is. The timing belt had just been done on this car but I already threw it away because of all the oil getting in the front cover and on the belt. Now I wish I had the belt to look at more closely to see any edge damage from running off the back of the pulley and rubbing the oil pump housing. Somehow these people managed to break all the woodruff keys as well (or maybe that’s common, not sure) I’m thankful parts are easy to find.

[@user-qf8lv6so5s]

I have a question, whenever I install my flywheel lock, it moves the timing mark just a tad. Does your flywheel lock do the same?

[@NC944er]

I’ve noticed there is about 1-2mm of lateral play after the flywheel lock is installed, where the crankshaft can be shifted slightly back and forth against the teeth on the lock. In those cases, you may be able to twist it back in the other direction to line things back up, but in the case of mine, the movement is so minor that it wouldn’t be enough for the timing belt to be out of sync by a full tooth on the belt.

[@nolanrickauer7699]

Is this the same process as an ‘87 924s? I know they have the same engine and I can’t find any videos showing how to change belts on that car.

[@NC944er]

Hey man! Yes, this will be the same process for the 924S, you should also find the same type of spring tensioner used on your ‘87 engine. There are a handful of minor differences in the engine bay from an ‘87 944, like fuel line and A/C line routing pathways, different brake booster and reservoir, etc., but the engine mechanicals are the same.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Why did you use super glue on the rubber seal around the distributor shaft?

[@NC944er]

Oddly enough, that’s what the factory workshop manual calls for. 😂 It’s a poorly designed hard plastic cover that doesn’t clip into place. Without some kind of adhesive, it simply rattles around freely in there and can slide/spin into the back of the rotor. Probably why many cars have them missing or they’ve been discarded.

[@BennysBenz]

My 944 has a awful whine when you start the engine I've pulled the engine because I am fixing a bunch of seals and gaskets. What do you think is the cause of the whine. the timing belt water pump etc has been replaced.

[@NC944er]

It’s fairly common for the balance shaft belts to be over-tensioned or the idler roller improperly adjusted, which is known to cause excessive whining noise. Could also be a failing roller bearing.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

Hey @NC944er, I got all the parts put back except air filter box, started the car and it started right away. But now hearing a ticking sound, but not from cam. If accelerator is pressed there's a thud sound periodically. Can you please help in troubleshooting this issue? Also can I contact you in any other way for quick communication?

[@NC944er]

Hard to speculate without hearing/seeing it firsthand. Since you have the air box out of the car, could it be the throttle body and/or the flapper barn door of the AFM opening and closing, sounding more pronounced in the absence of the air box? Maybe reinstall the air box and see if the sound changes.

[@jockellis]

You need to get one of the clear timing belt case covers to show off all that yellow chromate.

[@NC944er]

🤣 I saw those on eBay a few years back. They didn’t look like the best overall fitment, but certainly functional and an interesting idea. Someone should design a “sound deadening” cover to drown out some of the belt noise.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@NC944er, my engine is bathed in oil. There's visible leak from cam cover gasket but I'm not sure is that it. Both timing belts are drenched in oil, along with rest of the parts. Do you have any recommendations on cleaning the oil spill around the engine, belts, covers, cross members and other smaller motors?

[@NC944er]

Hey man! It sounds like you could benefit from an all around engine reseal. Once one seal goes, others are likely to follow as the car is driven, especially if it’s coming out of a long storage period where it wasn’t run monthly. There are a number of seals at the front of the engine that will cover the belts in oil, you’ve got upper and lower front balance shaft seals, the crankshaft seal and the camshaft seal, in addition to other seals around the camshaft assembly. Luckily the seals are fairly inexpensive, but if you’d prefer not to replace them all, a good engine cleaning will help track down the sources. I do most of my cleaning by hand, you can spray the block down with degreaser, scrub it, and spray it off with a hose, just cover sensitive electronics like the alternator, etc. if you decide to pressure wash, stay away from any rubber bits, like wiring harnesses and insulation, as they are likely to crumble. Good luck! 👍🏼

[@mikseymono1]

Brilliant video...I have the same car and tool!....when I put it in spec on the tool the balance belt slips and the balance belt shaft sprockets no longer line up properly. I have tried, probably about 5 times and it keeps doing it so I have to have the belt too tight.....any clues as to what I am doing wrong? Thank you. M

[@NC944er]

Hmmm, the balance shaft belt would have to be pretty loose to start slipping and jumping teeth on the sprockets. I don’t want to assume anything was overlooked, but I would make sure the tensioner is properly tightened down before applying and taking the reading on the gauge. The balance shaft belt is of less importance than the timing belt, in terms of the tension being exactly right, so you could also try the 90° twist method and see if that provides a better result.

[@mikseymono1]

@@NC944er Thanks for reply...forgot to say how in awe I am of your clean engine.....mines pretty good but not in your league! I have had another play today and have managed to get the BB on spec with the tool. My balance belt idler roller does sound a bit gritty when I took it off and spun it around...I understand it should just touch the top Balance belt and have a 0.5mm gap below. I have re-gapped everything and took it out for a spin...the first time the preload was way too much on the BB so backed that off to almost touching. then gave it some beans after it warmed up.... When I came back.....having almost totaled myself and car having just missed a massive tractor carrying a load of pig manure...my Wife said how much quieter it was....she was indeed right. I'll let it cool over night and then take some more readings tomorrow....Thanks again!

[@NC944er]

@@mikseymono1 Thank you! Yeah, the little idler roller is where a lot of the balance shaft belt noise comes from. So much so that I’ve seen people just move it completely off to the side and lock it down so it doesn’t ever touch the belt. 😂 I’m glad you didn’t end up like Biff in Back to the Future with your manure miss!

[@mikseymono1]

@@NC944er 😀The hazards of living out in the French countryside.....think ultimately I may need a new roller but I'll keep a watching brief. Cheers! M

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

Hey @NC944er, Can you please add the torque spec for power steering pump and alternator pivot bolts/nuts and their tension arm nuts/bolts? Also facing trouble on the timing belt securing clip/belt guard nuts. Top nut is sliding in as the guard tends to open up letting the nut screw in. I see that the nut is having a wear around its inner and outer washer area. Any suggestions here? Thanks in advance.

[@NC944er]

Hey, assuming you’re referring to the power steering pump and A/C compressor? Unless you have a non-A/C car. I’m not seeing anything specific to the pump in the factory workshop manual and the A/C compressor just lists 28Nm for the M8 fitting. I usually just lock all those down “good and tight” by hand, as my torque wrench doesn’t fit in most of those spaces. You should be safe following the standard specs of 20Nm for the M8 hardware and 40Nm for the M10. For your second issue, it sounds like you may need to replace the belt guide and/or the nut/bolt setup if it’s worn out.

[@sarahisokay6743]

how long does it take to replace just the timing belt i want to get a car running and make sure everything works before i buy it so i’m trying to figure out how long it will take and check everything

[@NC944er]

The belt replacement, once you’re in there, is pretty quick… maybe 20-30 minutes to swap them out and tension. What takes up most of the time is removing everything it takes to access the belts. If the engine is fully intact, consider 2-4 hours for tear down and reassembly.

[@sarahisokay6743]

@@NC944er dang ok thank you

[@jmballoveras]

Do you have a video for 16 valve engines,same operation

[@NC944er]

Hey Juan, no I don’t have a separate video that showcases the 16-valve engine, but the belt change process is quite similar to the 8-valve. There are a few differences in the way the distributor cap and rotor are screwed on and the orientation of the AFM, etc., but the spring tensioner is the same and the belts route the same way. Irina has a video showing the S2 - kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWKzYaFneb2AqtE

[@aidenfoster1008]

Where did you get all your gold parts from? Also when my car is running it’s has a ticking sound it’s goes away for a minute or a few seconds then it will come back and gets worse at higher rpm, what do you think it is? I was thinking valve lifters

[@NC944er]

Earlier this year I pulled a lot of the steel parts on the engine, had them glass bead blasted, and then yellow-zinc plated to bring back the factory look. As far as the ticking goes, could really be any number of things. The valve lifters are known to chatter when stuck or clogged. The fuel injectors also making ticking noises that get louder as they age. A slightly bent valve could also present a ticking sound. Rod knock will typically have a deeper sound, but if you’ve got more than 150k miles on the engine, I would add those to the list to replace at some point. If you haven’t done so already, I’d start with an oil change using a nice 20w50 conventional oil. It’s cheap, easy, and may help the lifters.

[@nicolomarinas7176]

Is it possible to change the belts and align everything without the tool to hold the flywheel? I'm repairing my head and I already have the front piston on top dead center?

[@NC944er]

Hey Nicolo, it is “possible” and there are people who have done it what way, but it does increase the risk of the timing being off, since the crankshaft can move from its position while tensioning the belts. If you opt to do it that way, I would triple check the alignment of all timing marks before turning the engine over, just to be safe.

[@nicolomarinas7176]

Will I need to see every timing mark including the flywheel? I have my cylinder head off and I just did the timing marks for the belts but I can't turn the flywheel to see the ot. I. Afraid to crank the motor without the head just to see the ot on the flywheel.

[@NC944er]

@@nicolomarinas7176 The intent behind keeping the crankshaft marks in time with the camshaft marks is to prevent the valves from making contact with the pistons. Since you already have the camshaft housing and the cylinder head off the engine, it’s perfectly safe to turn the crankshaft over as needed to clean the pistons or complete other work on the engine. When reassembling the engine, you will want to see all the timing marks and confirm that the flywheel is set to OT before installing the camshaft housing with it’s marks aligned.

[@fredbobberts5753]

Think lower balance shaft roller not in correct timing position?

[@NC944er]

Hey Fred, it sounds like you’re already familiar with this, but just to recap for the edification of others - the lower balance shaft has a notch cut in the rear of the pulley that aligns with the tab protruding from the rear plastic belt cover. I think what you may be seeing is the camera angle being slightly off center. It’s a tight area to film and it looks like the shot wasn’t taken straight on, but the timing alignment is spot on. Cheers! 👍🏼

[@drummerboii911]

Do they still sale this tensioning tool ?

[@NC944er]

@@drummerboii911 Not at this time, the business owner retired and nobody took it over. There is a 3D printed tool that uses a torque wrench available here - www.carpokes.com/app.php/carpokes-store

[@tims_4x4_garage]

Cant you set TDC by rotating the crank until the timing marks line up and the distributor rotor is pointing to #1?

[@NC944er]

If everything is already timed and installed correctly on the engine, you are right that the ignition rotor “should” be pointing towards the terminal for cylinder 1 when the engine is at TDC, but it’s not terribly uncommon for things to be slightly off. You never know who’s been in there and what’s been done over the past 30 years. With that in mind, what’s most important is that the crankshaft/flywheel marks are first set for TDC, because that determines the height/location of the pistons. Everything else should follow that setting.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er where is the sight window on the bell housing? I saw the shot of it but couldn’t determine where it was located

[@NC944er]

@@tims_4x4_garage At the rear of the intake manifold there is a metal bracket that holds the wiring connectors for the speed, reference, and O2 sensors. The window is directly below that about 8 inches down.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

@@NC944er cool. Thanks for answering all my questions. I’m enjoying the heck out of my car although the passenger seat and carpet are out if it right now due to lots of water. You ever ride up through highlands NC? there are a bunch of twisties and waterfalls. You can drive behind bridal veils falls up there it’s a sweet photo op.

[@NC944er]

@@tims_4x4_garage Ha! Yeah the passenger side had some wet times on mine as well. Got the battery tray all sealed up, but there’s still a slow leak at the windshield seal. Unfortunately the factory glass is priced around $1,200. 😳 So I’ll probably go the aftermarket route. Highlands is about 5 hours from me, so we haven’t made it that way as yet, but we usually do some Asheville trips every year. Sounds like a cool spot.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@NC944er, Confused about shaft (cam, balance, Crank) sealing ring installation. 1.how flush should I install it - all the way in or flush with end of bearing case? 2.I applied high temp grease over entire sealing ring (including that outer face over the perimeter of sealing ring) for all shafts and installed it at present. Is this okay or will they start getting pushed out while engine is running? Will addition of grease cause oil leak? 3.can I pull out the seals and get them dry outside contact surface and reinstall? Clarks garage says apply slight bearing grease, but when I asked in fb group, they said install it dry. Really confused and the job is on hold. Any comments?

[@NC944er]

Hey man! The round shaft seals used around the car feature a step-down inside each recess that will prevent the seals from being over-inserted, so they are generally pushed in until they bottom out (often times this leaves them appearing quite flush, with exceptions like the rear main seal that will appear slightly recessed into the cavity). You may also notice a faint wear line on the shaft/bearing surface that aligns with the placement of the inner seal, which can be used as a guide. Any rough shaft surfaces should first be cleaned up with a high grit sandpaper (500-600 grit) to smooth them out and prevent damage of the new seal. If any of the bearing surfaces feature a deep groove that catches on your fingernail when pulled across, the bearings should be replaced or you can try to install the new seal at a slightly different depth to avoid it riding on the groove. There are a couple different camps as you have seen, that separately prefer dry versus greased installation of the seals. I prefer to use a light coating of assembly grease on the outer surface of the seals, as they install a little easier and that prevents tearing and warping of the sealing structure during installation. Whether you go dry or greased on the outside, it should not affect seal function provided that it’s installed correctly, but I would definitely recommend the use of either engine oil or a super slick assembly lubricant applied to the inside sealing surface that rides along the shaft/bearing, as this will prevent the seal from being burnished/damaged during the first engine start before fresh oil can be pumped to those locations. When removing the seals, there is a high likelihood of the metal ring inside the seal becoming slightly bent or warped, so there is a leak risk of reinstalling a pulled seal, where I would generally purchase and install a new seal at those locations to avoid doing that same job a second time soon thereafter.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@@NC944er In addition, the seals that I bought are of 7mm thick, the housing space where they sit is about 9mm thick, so I don't think if I get it pushed all the way in, it will be flush with the end face. It will have 2mm gap at face. Will that be okay?

[@NC944er]

@@Sivaprasad.t.g Yeah, that’s common to see about 1mm of outer lip on the aluminum housing when the seals are pushed fully into place. 👍🏼

[@jayfogle333]

Is the maxi kit about 300 dollars aswell?

[@NC944er]

Based upon ArnnWorx website, the Maxi Kit is about $350 now…

[@nelsonpassos9291]

Alway disconnect the negative battery cable 1st and positive cable last. Reconnect the positive cable 1st a d the negative cable last !

[@NC944er]

Thanks for the tip!

[@thechosenkiwi7871]

Is the flywheel lock necessary

[@NC944er]

I try to follow the factory recommended procedures whenever possible, so I have not attempted this job without the flywheel lock, but there are numerous examples of guys out there who claim to have done it without the lock. During and after the new belt installation, you’d just want to double check that the crankshaft hasn’t moved away from the TDC position and that the timing marks are aligned before rotating the engine. If you’re also replacing the water pump, front main seal, or oil pump drive gear, all of which require removal of the crankshaft bolt, I don’t believe there’s a way to safely complete that work without the flywheel lock.

[@GiuseppeGangitano-w8v]

Where can I buy these tools

[@NC944er]

@@GiuseppeGangitano-w8v The tensioner tool isn’t available at this time, the business owner retired and nobody took it over. There is a 3D printed tool that uses a torque wrench available here - www.carpokes.com/app.php/carpokes-store

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

Hey @NC944er, My timing belt section between cam gear and water pump - slaps on to the plastic back cover. I checked with engine running for just a few minutes. I can turn the water pump pulley with a bit of effort and also I was able to twist the upper section of timing belt to 90 degree before installing idler pulley. But after the installation of idler pulley, its not reaching 90 degree at all. Is my timing belt tight or loose? Thanks in advance.

[@NC944er]

The plastic back covers can warp slightly over time and cause small issues like that. It’s also possible that not all the bolts for the back cover are fully tightened down. The idler roller does get in the way of a 90° twist, so I’d check it with that piece removed.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@@NC944er I visually confirmed its the belt that's slapping violently when accelerator pedal is depressed. I also believe back plastic cover is not getting in the way. I can sure check if any of the bolts are not fully tightened. 1.In which case can the timing belt slap violently? 2.Is there a possibility that my timing belt is either too loose or too tight? I've added the lower idler roller, specially for 944S model this time as it was not present when I opened up the timing cover initially. 3.Could the addition of this extra pulley (oem part for 944S model - 944 105 241 02) has become a problem instead of assisting the timing belt?

[@NC944er]

@@Sivaprasad.t.g The belt wouldn’t be able to slap unless there was slack being taken up on acceleration. So it’s possible the belt is set too loosely or there’s an issue with the belt tensioner, possibly not being locked down to hold the tension setting. The idler roller should not be impacting the tension of the belt.

[@Sivaprasad.t.g]

@@NC944er hi, As identified the belt was awesomely loose but tight enough to not skip any tooth. Tightned the belt, now all good. I don't have any tool to verify the tension and so approaching Porsche center. Thank you for your inputs.

[@NC944er]

@@Sivaprasad.t.g Oh wow, I’m glad you caught it before it did any damage. Having a measurement tool is really the best way to go. 👍🏼

[@tylerdurden7067]

Where do I buy the Arnworxx tool??? Their website and phone number are both down

[@NC944er]

Hey! Yeah, I was sad to learn that Bruce Arnn has recently closed the doors on his specialty tool business. So, we’ll have to use the Porsche P9201 or an alternative. 944Online has the wrenches - 944online.com/timing-belt-tool-kit-2.html

[@tylerdurden7067]

@@NC944er is there a good alternative to the genuine Porsche tool? There’s a mechanic here local with the P9201 who claims he used to work on Porsche race cars but I generally don’t like dealing with him.

[@NC944er]

@@tylerdurden7067 A number of sites (Pelican, AutoAtlanta, 944Online) are offering the Krikit or KR1 belt tool now, I guess absent any other good option, but I generally understood that to be used on v-belts and serpentine belts, so I have mixed feelings about using it on the timing belt, but it appears some people have used it there successfully, even to the point of claiming that readings can be identical to the P9201 (after a learning curve). Maybe I’ll pick one up at some point and test it out.

[@Welcome2TheOhioState]

Is this video still applicable to a 944 turbo?

[@NC944er]

Yeah, all the same components need to be removed to access and change the belts on the Turbo cars. The process is generally the same, there’s just some setup differences on the intake and air filter housing to account for. This is a good place to start - www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche_944_Turbo/59-ENGINE-Balance_Shaft_Belt_Replacement/59-ENGINE-Balance_Shaft_Belt_Replacement.htm

[@Welcome2TheOhioState]

@@NC944er awesome thank you so much for the link!

[@jmballoveras]

Hi can you provide the name and model of the tool and gauge kit I can make it out in the video Thanks

[@NC944er]

Hey sure, those are the Arnnworx tools - tensioner, combo wrench, and pin wrench - secure242.inmotionhosting.com/~arnnwo5/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65

[@kevingrewal1539]

Just checked they aren’t making these kits any longer. 😔

[@NC944er]

@@kevingrewal1539 Oh man, I see they now have no products available on the site, that’s bad news. Did Bruce say why or if it was temporary?

[@NC944er]

@@kevingrewal1539 944Online has a kit as well - 944online.com/timing-belt-tool-kit-2.html

[@tstorm9796]

I cant get my crankshaft to turn could u help me out

[@NC944er]

Is the engine seized? Do you have any other details about the engine’s condition and what you’re experiencing?

[@tstorm9796]

@@NC944er i got it figured out, i didnt see that you had responded, it was a simple mistake i didnt relaize i had left it im gear

[@NC944er]

@@tstorm9796 Ahhhh, yup… that would do it. Happens to all of us from time to time. 😁

[@getkrushed17]

Why did I buy one of these

[@jockellis]

Could you give the name and phone number of the plating company you used? I want to see what it would cost to re-plate my injector rail.

[@NC944er]

I used Parker Metal Finishing in Greensboro, NC. They have a minimum fee of $100 for the small-batch plating services, but that would cover pretty much all of the steel brackets in the engine bay if you plan to restore anything else in there. They mainly do larger-scale industrial plating so the small batches get thrown in when they’re starting a new round, so sometimes there’s a short wait time before the job starts, usually just 4-5 days. Their number is [phone]

[@jockellis]

@@NC944er thank you. I guess the fuel rail will be all since everything else is already installed and I’m not about to take it out again.

[@mjvick]

Why are so many of your parts gold colored ?

[@NC944er]

Hey Jon, during the engine restoration process I removed most of the steel brackets, supports, and other components and had them re-plated in yellow zinc. That’s how they were delivered from the factory, but only the most well-preserved examples still retain their original plating. Yellow zinc provides some of the best protection against oxidation.