@@bobd9868 It depends on the existing condition of the hatch glass/frame and how the hatch has been used (or abused) in the past. The delamination process is hastened when the glass has been twisted in the frame while being closed with one hand or with uneven pressure on one side.

@@paulsz6194 Indeed it did! The cast iron manifolds added 8.4 pounds, so I’m back in the positive. 😂 I didn’t have them professionally coated as I was trying to keep costs down at the time, but the POR15 coating I used has started to flake off, so in retrospect I probably should have had them ceramic coated.

@@EBMproductions1 Sorry to hear that. A coolant leak could ultimately develop from any of the system components. I would pressurize the coolant system or run the engine until it’s warm, wait for the leak to return, and then trace it back to the highest source.

@NC944er damn see i dont have the equipment to test i first wanted to run the car after putting some coolant in then trying to find ot however im scared it will hurt the head gasket, the coolants leaking on to the tray under the car and its closer to the tub housing the coolant but all the pipes, engine block look dry only place i see a bit of a wetness is the front part of the radiator where you look in from the bumper so im not sure if that is the radiator as its not leaking round the edges of the radiator?

@ Yeah, you can just run the engine, it won’t hurt the head gasket unless it overheats, so keep it topped up on coolant.

@@NC944er I'm going to look into Radiator prices in my country as we got told it would cost $2500 or so if Porsche had to replace and install a new radiator which is quite expensive especially right now.

@@bobd9868 Hey Bob! Yes, your assessment sounds correct. Mine currently has “old” OEM struts that hold the weight of the glass when raised, but don’t raise it under their own power, which I think is the sweet spot to avoid hatch glass delamination. I’ve replaced the rear hatch seal as well, and that has given it enough buffer for the motor to release the pins and lift the glass slightly. So if your hatch seal is really worn and compressed, maybe look at replacing it to solve your problem.

@@onurtezer6170 Hey! If you have the later 924S, then a lot of these would be transferrable. For an early 924, you could certainly look at suspension upgrades (stiffer shocks and thicker sway bars), I believe they make throttle cams for the 924 as well, and higher compression pistons.

@@mikefinger8374 Not forward at all… as I actually have a 5-part video series on the channel that breaks down the interior, exterior, and mechanical expenses over the past 5 years of restoration on the car. In short, it was about $5,000 for the car followed by about $30,000 worth of new parts. Here’s the latest installment if you want to check it out - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aYicmWmsrd2sgaMfeature=shared

@@gaborszepes8107 Well, the only mods that would add horsepower here are the MAF tune kit and the power steering delete (which also reduces weight). I got about 5% increase from the MAF (on Dyno) and maybe +2 bhp from the power steering removal. So about an increase of 10 bhp total.

@ thank You!

@@douglasnichols6116 Are you talking about the clockable mounting bracket on the starter? I did not make any adjustments to that for installation, just straight out of the box and into the car.

@@gawsies Sounds like a failing head gasket. The #4 reading a little low, not terrible, still within 10% of the others, but not optimal either. It doesn’t take much coolant/water being combusted to create white smoke. If the #4 spark plug was a little cleaner than the others (less carbon deposits), that would be another indication of coolant making its way into the combustion chamber. The only other way for coolant to pass through would be failed oil cooler seals, but then you’d see coolant mixed in with the oil.

@ Okay thank you! Is there any possible way that coolant is being lost by a loose hose and the white smoke is getting caused by something else? Or this pretty much seals the deal. I haven’t done the coolant pressure test but will on Monday.

@ With a loose hose, you’d likely see coolant on the ground or at least evidence of it running down the engine. When it comes to smoke, it usually comes down the following indicators: • White smoke indicates a cooling system issue leaking internally • Blue smoke points to be oil burning • Black smoke is unburned burned fuel in the exhaust, or running rich

@@NC944er the very strange thing is I got a puddle of coolant a week ago in the front left of the car. But it will still indicate a head gasket issue even if I did get white smoke a few times ? Hoping for the best, wish me luck. Thank you for this video

The roller that changed in 1987 is the timing belt idler roller, where a redesigned water pump was introduced. The early roller for '83-'86 was 32mm, part number: 944-105-273-02. The later roller for '87+ is 46.2mm, part number: 944-105-241-04. This roller is positioned above the timing belt's upper span. At this point however, the early water pump version is NLA, so you'd want to convert everything to the new design and add on the updated parts, per TSB 8713, including modification of the rear belt cover (unless someone has already done this on your car). Here's a forum post that contains the TSB details: forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/508830-pump-quickie.html

@@nobodyshero200 Cheap to buy, expensive to drive. 😂

@@kentsang6330 Hey, thank you! I paid $5,500 for the car in 2019 and put about $30,000 worth of new parts on it over a 5-year period. My total investment in the car to date is $35,728.98. It’s not quite worth that on the open market. 😂 But yeah, nice ones are hard to find. You either pay for it up front for a low-mile example or pay for it in restoration costs. It’s sound advice to buy the best possible example you can afford.

@@951resto Hey man, thank you! I believe you’re referring to the cylindrical steel housing for the cruise control servo motor that mounts on the back of the assembly. The mounting flange is somewhat triangular and features three bolts. On the lower tab of the flange, you should notice some raised material right next to the bolt hole, which is the top of an alignment pin that’s attached to the main aluminum housing. This pin gets “mushroomed” over with some kind of hammering force during production to lock it in place. To remove the steel cylinder, you can either very carefully drill out the pin (there’s a circuit board just behind it), grind off the protruding material, or simply snap it off by tapping a chisel between the mating surfaces (which is what I did). There are two magnets inside the cylinder that ended up collecting a lot of metal flakes during the blasting and plating process. I later spent about 30 minutes removing all the metal specs before reassembly. Here are some disassembly pictures so you can get an idea of what’s inside the servo. The second to last image in the reel shows where the alignment stud snaps off - www.cruisecontrolrepair.com/servo

@@bluerippler Welcome to the club!

@@JETX1990 Hey man, thank you! I’m glad you’ve enjoyed the channel. They are fun cars to wrench on, not overly complicated, but they do ask you for money from time to time to keep them roadworthy. Best of luck in your search!

@@paulfallis4526 Hey Paul, that sounds like a vacuum leak (unless the engine oil has been overfilled). I’d first check and replace the o-rings on the AOS (including the top lid seal, which is not sold by Porsche), and check for vacuum leaks in general.

@@NC944er Sincere thanks for your reply. The engine was overfilled with engine oil by 1 litre. I completed an oil change to start fresh after this however the issue has continued. Even with line to J boot now in a catch can, we are still getting excessive smoke. I will check for vacuum leaks however it idles fine and no serious blow by with oil filler cap removed.

@@paulfallis4526 Makes sense. To clarify, when I said “top lid seal,” I was referring to the top of the AOS where the vacuum line connects, not the o-ring inside the fill cap (although that one is important as well).

Here is the list of part numbers used for this repair. Feel free to search them through the online vendor of your choosing: 944-608-102-04: Bosch Fuel Pump 69467 944-356-091-00: Fuel Pump Rubber Housing 951-356-041-10: Fuel Line - fuel pump to fuel filter 928-110-475-05: Fuel Pump Cap Nut 951-356-557-00: Fuel Line - tank strainer to fuel pump 999-512-346-00: Hose clamp - 16-27mm 999-512-554-00: Hose clamp - 12-22mm 999-512-016-00: Fuel pump clamp - 80-100mm 928-110-253-07: Fuel Filter N-013-812-2: Sealing ring for banjo fitting

@@kcarmack99 Hey! I went with the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 PLUS tires, but these are the staggered 16" size for the S2 wheels (205/55ZR16 and 225/50ZR16). I don't believe this tire is available in 15" wheel sizes. I was mainly looking for a highly rated all-season tire so that the car could be used in a variety of conditions without too much worry. They've been good so far, road noise isn't bad, good grip, the sidewalls are a little spongy so I bumped up the PSI a couple pounds. If you're still running the 215/60R15 tires on your '87, you might want to look at the Bridgestone Ecopia or Hancook Kinergy (similar all-seasons), or hit up the forums and see what other guys are running.

@@HardwayLearning Hey, yeah the new OEM prices are insane. I typically go for used ones because the OEM design by INA has been updated and there have been some reliability complaints. The best price for used will be through Plyhammers Parts when he has them in stock, currently none available, but I’ve paid as low as $3-$9 per lifter. Otherwise eBay generally has some sets for sale. There is a really nice NOS set of 8 for $600 on there right now.

@@jergervasi3331 Back when I was just trying to keep the car running. 😂

@@NC944er hahaha... Hey, BTW, it would be cool if your Store had shirts in Black, since that's the only color clothing I wear. Just an idea.

My heater doesn't get warm, so I thought it might be this. But wouldn't a failed valve just be ALWAYS passing coolant? Do they ever fail in the CLOSED position?

@@jergervasi3331 Ahhh, yeah the main image is black, so it wasn’t showing up on the darker colors. Maybe I can convert the printing to white so a black shirt can be added. I’ll let you know.

@@jergervasi3331 A “no heat” symptom is rarer than an “always on heat” symptom since the valve defaults to open. It’s possible to experience a failed solenoid for the heater control valve to where it is always applying vacuum, leaving it in closed position. You should be able to inspect the valve position while the engine is running to confirm. Other possible causes could be a servo failure for the temperature mixing flap, leaving the door in a closed position, a failed interior temperature sensor (944-624-013-00), or a faulty HVAC control panel (save for last as it’s the most expensive). This article on Clark’s will show you the location of all these components - www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/hvac-01.htm

@@GreasyFingers Hey, thank you! No real reason for not plating that pulley other than it was still on the engine when I took everything in, and I didn’t feel like removing it at the time. You certainly could have it plated if you wanted to.

@@nicholas.granda There are quite a few online parts vendors that support these cars. I have a video on how to use the parts catalog to locate parts with an overview of the primary vendors towards the end of the video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/paazdGl6qrejq6cfeature=shared

@@bobd9868 Hey Bob, it sounds like you’ve done a nice job chasing things down and the F9 diagnostics certainly offer a lot of convenience, great stuff! To answer your question, both cooling fans should always be operating together on the late model cars, in both high and low speeds. Only the early cars featured single fan operation on low speed. Based on all the suspects you’ve eliminated, I would next look at the fan resistors themselves. The high speed switch bypasses the resistors, which explains why both fans are running at high speed. With a bad fan resistor (or faulty wiring to the resistor), that would explain single fan operation at low speed. Check out the resistance check procedures here on Clark’s Garage to confirm, they should read less than 1 ohm - clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-01.htm#latefanoperation The high coolant temperature light getting stuck on is a separate issue, and a fairly common defect with the gauge cluster. Some owners have reported the light illuminating and staying on even when the coolant temp remains stable. Sometimes a “smack” to the side of the dash will correct the light, but the usual cause is corrosion on the boards or connections to the cluster. Pins can also get pushed out of the connectors and other issues, so cleaning those up and reseating them may provide an improvement. Finally, it’s possible to have the electrical fault with low speed fan operation AND a coolant system that’s not properly bled of air, which would further diminish cooling efficiency. Luckily bleeding the coolant system is easier than the work you’ve already done, should that need attention.

@@NC944er ok, I appreciate the reply and confirming that both fans should operate at low speed. Both on high is not an issue, just low speed. And, I’ll deal with the temp light separately now. Since the one fan is coming on (based on the coolant temp) wouldn’t that rule out the temp sensor itself and any bleeding issue? Could air in the system affect only one of the fans? I think I’m going to move some wires around on the resistors and see if I can get the driver side to kick on at low speed using the other resistor. One of them has to be good. I did test both of them a few weeks back and believe I was at 1.1 ohms which I assumed was close enough but maybe not? Thanks!

@@bobd9868 Yeah, because you are seeing at least partial fan operation at both speeds, the fan speed sensor should be good, and you have a working temperature gauge, so the coolant temperature sensor is likely good. The coolant system and its water temperature is ultimately what provides the input for these sensors, but air trapped in that system wouldn’t affect one fan operation versus two. What it could do however, is cause the fans to kick on earlier than they otherwise would if the system was properly bled. It couldn’t hurt to swap the two connectors on one resistor with two on the other and see if your single fan operation moves to the other fan. 1.1 ohms should be low enough to see fan movement, with a higher reading the fan would just spin slower, or with infinite resistance the fan wouldn’t move at all. If the resistors check out, then you’d be looking at the wiring.

@@NC944er ok, I checked both resistors and have 12v all around. Next, I swapped the fan wires from one resistor to the other and the drivers side fan still doesn't come on. I know that fan is good because it works on high speed. I'm going to check continuity from the resistor wiring up to the fuse box and out to the fan next. Being able to just push a button on the relay to test makes this so much easier.

@@NC944er ok, if you have a minute, would love to get your feedback. I narrowed this down further. With my powerprobe at the fan connections, I have voltage on both the high and low speeds on the passenger side fan but ONLY on high speed on the drivers side. That makes sense because it never turns on LOW speed. At the resistor block, I have 12v across all terminals so that should be good. I have 12v at both of the fuses ("Fan 1 and Fan 2"). There's only a single 12v+ wire running to each fan so where would you guess I'm losing power? There are 4 wires, three of them were pretty obvious so I checked continuity one by one. Three of them go into the fan relay. I couldn't find the 4th wire so I tied that in under the dash (checking for continuity until I had a match). That has to be where my issue lies. Can someone tell me where the 4th wire should be in the fuse box? The colors I have connected now are: red/green red/blk blk/red Update - I have both fans working now. I partially followed the diagram that I referenced about and the 2nd fan works. The colors are def different than my factory wiring but I’m fine with that. Thanks for your feedback that pushed me to finally get this sorted out.

@@maxkanters6579 Not sure what you mean by “opens weak.” How far depressed is the trigger when the latch releases? Is it almost bottomed out in the handle or somewhere in between?

@@briangoodman5260 Yeah, you’ll find a few excerpts in the owner’s manual that mention, “It is normal for your engine to consume oil” and “Make a habit to check the oil level at every fuel filling,” so the cover flap acts as a reminder. The rate of consumption can vary quite a bit based upon speed of engine operation, oil quality/viscosity, climate, etc., but Porsche’s recommended limit is up to 1.5 liters per 1,000km (1.6 quarts per 620 miles). Consumption beyond that point indicates your engine would benefit from a rebuild (possible worn piston rings, valve guides and seals). It seems your figures are within specification for normal operation, just something to keep an eye on if you begin adding more miles between oil changes.

@@NC944er good to know, thank you! That's a pretty generous consumption guideline, esp. considering they are talking about the engine when new. Based on my limited experience as a first time Porsche owner, I think these engines are quite durable. My very experienced mechanic tells me he has never had to overhaul one (compared to many air-cooled engines he has had to rebuild.) Also, just changed my oil and added a quart of oil stabilizer from a well-known additive maker. Car now starts easier, idles smoother, and is noticeably quieter. We'll see if it has any effect on oil usage, but regardless, 944s are a blast to drive!

@@briangoodman5260 Yeah, I agree they are pretty robust engines when maintained, although long periods of neglect have been unkind to many examples, where various oil seals tend to need replacing. The timing belt is a weak point (short replacement interval) and the head gasket will eventually fail, but the piston rings and rod bearings tend to last well into 200k miles.

@@markleger9238 It would pretty difficult to slide the belt off the cam gear while there’s tension on it, but if you were able to remove it that way, you’d still need to tear the front of the engine down and remove the balance shaft belt in order to properly re-tension the timing belt, so it probably wouldn’t save you any time in the end.

@NC944er ok good to know thanks for the heads up. I'm doing mine this weekend and then will have to order parts.

@@nextgenpotato4525 If the scratches or chips pass through an entire section of the mating surface (from inside to outside), then a fluid leak is possible. I’ve had success leveling out small scratches using a block sander by hand with a high grit sand paper (600 grit) applied carefully to the mating surface. I’ve also seen people apply a Permatex Indian Head or Copper Spray-a-gasket to the paper gasket for a better seal that fills small gaps. Although, I’ve never personally used those products, so I wouldn’t be able to recommend it either way, but it may be worth some research.

@@NC944er Thank you for your response! That makes sense. I plan on re-assembling everything soon, and hoping for no leaks. Also abit hesitant to of usiing sealants due to fear of issues removing again later down the line.

@@bobgarcia4343 The owner of Arnnworx retired and closed down the business a couple years ago, so this tension kit is no longer available. 944Online has a basic kit and CarPokes sells a 3D printed tool that uses a torque wrench.

@@nurtekin429 Since this video I’ve installed the 944 Sport DME computer from Focus 9 Technology and it’s been working great.

@@dpmgarage19 That would definitely provide some much needed extra space for the short shifter install. 👍🏼

The Lindsey ones can be a little harsh. People will sometimes split the difference by filling the OEM units with urethane. Check the other comments here.

@@ryano.8768 Yeah, I switched away from the Ultra Mount due to the vibration at idle. My primary use case for car right now is running errands and short trips between towns, and given the stop-and-go traffic and sitting at traffic lights, the Ultra Mount just isn’t as compliant as the OEM rubber mount. Once the car is at speed, the solid mount isn’t really an issue, and it definitely feels more stable in turns than the OEM mount, so there’s a trade off.

@@ThingsBreak I had previously painted some sections on the top of the carrier, and cleaned up the underside, which was well protected in a thick layer of CV axle grease that had seeped and splashed out over the years of driving. 😆

@@munchmystic4712 Already replaced my clutch… at the time, I considered making a video, but there were excellent ones already out there from @vsvenson and @edredas. Since there wouldn’t have been enough new information to add to the existing work to justify the time cost, I elected to skip it.

@@phil6012 Yeah, that’s still popular today. 944Store even sells mounts that are preset in urethane. Supposed to firm it up nicely. Here, I was switching away from a solid transmission mount due to excessive vibration, so I opted for a standard OEM mount.

@@NC944ervery surprised to see how flexible the brand new mount was in the video - expected more rigidity but that’s how it’s engineered! fantastic vid! i did the urethane fill on mine, and have been curious what the difference between the old broken mount, urethane fill and new OE is like

@@anthonydietmeier6524 Indeed, quite a bit easier on the early cars. 😂

They also changed things for the 968 so the mount attaches to an aluminum carrier with studs so you don't need to drop the carrier.

@@JVR_Funwithdesign That’s cool! I didn’t know that. 👍🏼

@@eddiealvarado3923 Awesome! Let me know how it goes.

@@adqtube Hey, thank you! I’ve heard of guys installing lighter flywheels for track applications, but I personally wouldn’t recommend it for regular street use. The 2.5L engine is pretty big for a four cylinder, so Porsche had to add weight in various places to offset the vibration (crankshaft, balance shafts, flywheel). All these work together to increase rotational mass and allow for smoother clutch engagement and acceleration. The lighter flywheel would increase rev speed, but it would come at the cost of jerky clutch engagement and a decrease in low end torque.

@@NC944er thanks for the reply , I have often worked with the 6 cylinder BMW engines contemporary with the 944 engine and the lightening of the flywheel is a normal practice, but as you rightly say it is an intrinsically already balanced engine while the 4 cylinder Porsche is the result of halving a V8 engine and it already has balancing problems from birth, so it mounts counter-shafts to balance the vibrations. I bought a 944 model year 87, it is exactly like yours except for the perfection, the car was very beautiful, red with sunroof and full optionals, it still is but unfortunately the previous owner did not take care of the maintenance and the fuel delivery pipe cracked , the car caught fire and even though it was put out quite quickly the damage is a lot , the engine wiring no longer exists, the engine compartment wiring is partially destroyed, the vacuum pipes, the pipes in general are destroyed, the fire was located under the intake manifold and near the firewall (very apt name) I bought it to save it and it can be saved without big problems but I don't know the model in detail, not enough to know what was in it and how it was connected to something that is now a lump of coal, can I bother you every now and then with a few questions?

@@adqtube Sure thing… the Porsche Parts catalogue will also be a big help in determining what parts are missing/destroyed. Here is a link, just pull by model and year - www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/originalpartscatalogue/

@@NC944er Thanks guy 🙃you are very kind , your passion is apparent 👍 I just started working on it, the engine is down as is the front end and the situation already seems better , It would be fun to show you a picture of how I found it when I bought it...

@@adqtube My email is posted in the Channel Description.