Porsche 944 Turbo Clutch Hydraulics (Master, Slaves, Lines, Pedal Adjustment + Bleeding)

[@Chrisovideos]

Using the Motive pressure bleeder is key, but to make sure all air gets out you need to cycle the clutch pedal through its range a few times, while the Motive is pushing fluid through the system so any trapped air in the master is pushed into the flow created by the pressure bleed. I just left the bleeder screw open enough for good flow, pressurized it to about 20 psi, and cycled the pedal a few times. 2 minutes later all air was gone and the clutch was good to go. You will use a bit more brake fluid with this method, but it's well worth it. Turns a PITA process into a relatively easy one.

[@esmith904]

Thank you! I needed this. Setting the pedal free play on my 944T today after replacing the clutch hydraulics.

[@noozall]

I find the high point of the system is the fitting at the firewall where the steel line connects to the hose that heads down to the slave cylinder. Crack that open a bit, push the pedal to the floor a time or two until fluid comes out. Leave the pedal on the floor. Now connect a pump oiler full of fluid to the slave bleeder. Pump the fluid into the slave cylinder until it starts coming out the fitting at the firewall too. Now close the bleeder, tighten the fitting, pull the pedal up and you should be done. Just be sure the reservoir is topped up during the process.

[@notalone2575]

Excellent video. You are my new best friend - as I just had my 87 turbo clutch stay stuck to floor. I owe you a couple of draft Guiness for this well done clutch hydraulic video.

[@carrera416tta]

hen bleeding the clutch the best thing we had work was attaching a separate reservoir to the line on the main reservoir and bleeding it that way. Once the pedal felt good hook the line back up to the main reservoir and fill it up. I'm actually planning on running a separate one for the clutch since its such a pain to get it bled, but haven't sorted out where I'm going to put it.

[@christophersmithsonian3350]

Ill try that cause my pedal is stuck to the floor

[@robertbailey1950]

Thank you. I had to drive my 944T yesterday for the first time this year and the clutch pedal wouldn't come back up properly so this gives useful insight. Thanks again.

[@davecushing5500]

My 1986 944 did the same to me today after sitting a couple months. Did you try to adjust the rod first? Very interested .

[@robertbailey1950]

@@davecushing5500 No, there were no leaks and enough fluid so I topped up the fluid and just pumped the pedal until it became free. It was working fine when I left it. Will check again next week. It's worth noting that mine is a right hand drive car and has a separate fluid reservoir on the drivers side with the master cylinder below it. Much easier to get to.

[@kkfocus8]

@@robertbailey1950 great tutorial sir. I have a 87 924s, and it sat for about 3wks, until today. The clutch pedal 'flipped' to the floor, and you have to pull it up, OR push it and it stays in the down position. The fluid level was below half, and I am charging the battery now. I tried to 'hand pump' the pedal, a few short moments with no results. Any suggestions ? THANK YOU. Richard

[@kkfocus8]

by the way, I topped off the brake fluid.

[@stephenthompson1129]

Excellent video. Was having the same (clutch sticking to the floor) issue in my 968... thank you for posting this!

[@hooliganracing5110]

Thanks for the info. I have a 1989 2.7 L 944 that's done the same thing as the guys listed below. That tip in the line at the back of the engine will be very helpful. Cheers

[@evanfinch4987]

My first 86 951 crossover pipe cracked on the way to 944 Fest in 2006 which caused the slave cylinder to bubble with air. A dude from a tuning shop showed up in a 930 and when I said you need to pressure bleed the system he was like NOPE and he went right to work telling me what do with the pedal while he cracked the bleeder and worked out all the air in like two minutes. Nothing like being hardcore AF.

[@christophersmithsonian3350]

Thanks my 86 951 has been sitting foe 4 years and now my clutch pedal sticks to the floor like yours did if bought a new slave cylinder but haven't put it on yet

[@christophersmithsonian3350]

Thanks

[@JamesKavanaghFarmerALL]

Trying to avoid replacing clutch if not needed

[@Cooldadkev]

So if the pedal dropped to the floor and the system isn’t pressurized, is that normal? Or will the pedal retract to the up position regardless of the system being pressurized. Great video. Thank you.

[@matt-ball]

If there is no fluid in the system, or air is present, the pedal will stick to the floor and you'll need to pull it back up manually. Only when there is no air will the pedal rebound -- and as I talk about in this video, the clevis is adjusted appropriately. Essentially, if your pedal ever sticks to the floor, there is an issue

[@JamesKavanaghFarmerALL]

What if the fork has no resistance just goes back and forth with your fingers? W/ slave cylinder out ? Clutch h Pedal is to floor.

[@Cooldadkev]

I have not bled the system yet I was just trying to adjust the clutch pedal like you had mentioned I can go for way open in either direction or closed. It does not change anything. I cannot get any play out of it. Thoughts? Thank you.

[@matt-ball]

I'm not sure what you mean by "way open". There's no point trying to adjust it without the system bled. The resistance I describe at 9:40 won't be felt since you don't have any pressure in the system. So I'd do that first, then come back to adjust. Maybe the amount of threads you can see in my video will give you some idea as a guide if you aren't sure where it was at originally. Once pressurized, you should quickly be able to tell if you're going in the right direction or not.