Porsche 944 vacuum lines correct setup

[@TheJsbehr]

FC, great video man. I have an '83 that I rebuilt the top end on. Those vacuum lines are so important. I replaced them all while things were apart. Piece by piece and luckily kept it in the right oreder. Big improvemtn. no more leaks and the car loved it. Thanks for the efforts and info.

[@fcimports9823]

Joey Stanker thanks man! I've since sold that 944 because I lost space in a move and have been regretting ever since. Every time I look at my watch it's 9:44am or pm. I rang up a lunch and it was $9.44. I even opened a book and it fell on page 944. Okay I'm joking on the last part, but I'm hunted by the car. I need another one. Early spring I think I'm going to do it again and buy another. lol

[@ICHLIEBEmusic]

the sensor you mentioned as temperature control unit. Is that the one with two little tips sticking out ? under the manifold

[@fcimports9823]

This is the most common setup for the Early (83-85) 2.5 na 944. The engines rev gradually but not like a rotary or anything. You will blow the motor if you don't regularly change the timing belt every 40k. thx

[@epicars6902]

When I’m at top gear on hwy car have hard time to speed up

[@illindoug]

where did you get the diagrams? what diagrams did you use?

[@fcimports9823]

I studied the ones from Clark's garage

[@lbgarage4719]

I have a 83 944 and I was driving down the street and came to a stop sign and pressed the brake, (I knew that I needed a new brake booster) and the car died. I pushed it back home and got a new brake booster in. The car still won't start and new it won't crank or it will have a low crank... But I am out of ideas it seems that it could be 101 different things like sensors and so on. Do you have any ideas... Can you please get back to me if you have any ideas I really need to get the car back on the road

[@bradleyporter5454]

LB Garage Did you check the battery? Turn the key onto the on position and listen for the fuel pump. Try charging the battery.

[@kevrob1784]

makes absolutely no difference whatsoever where the vacuum hoses connect its a vacuum not an electrical impendence circuit. The only important issue is that there are no leaks in the system. The warm up switch is for emission control and vents fuel vapour back to the tank under vacuum or deaccerlation, its an unnecessary device which can be deleted and used to connect another water line to aid cooling at the rear of the head which can help save your headgasket in the event of vapour lock due to the poor cooling system design.

[@fcimports9823]

Kev Rob I would have to disagree, especially from an emissions point. without switching the EGR valve configuration, I couldn't stand in the garage with the car running. Seriously the fumes were so bad I couldn't breathe. Once I made the switch, the fumes stopped and I got quite better fuel economy. That's just what I experienced.