Porsche Center Lock Wheel Removal

[@shahrukhbakar3248]

Several comments: NEVER tighten or loosen the CL with the wheel on the ground. Porsche specifically advises against this. Look at your own video, and see how much force comes off the wheel as you raise the car, and look at how much sideways movement occurs at the hub, that's the harm. It is NOT too much to do in the air. Always raise the wheel in the air and THEN tighten or loosen. If you are going to use a torque multiplier, always keep the reaction bar horizontal and use a support with a wide base, you showed why in your own video. If your car in unsteady while loosening or tightening the CL, the answer is to support it better; NOT to put weight on the wheel by lowering the car! The torque rating is identical regardless of street/track use, and it sets the clamping force of the wheel on the hub. The reason to loosen by 90 degrees and tighten once again to 600 Nm is to fully seat the wheel on the hub and set the clamping force, it has nothing to do with the locking mechanism. At 14:16, your locking pin is very clearly NOT engaged properly, and is NOT flush with the splines. Your commentary is dangerously false in critical areas throughout the video. PLEASE stop spreading dangerous misinformation about the CL system; improper procedure risks wheel separation and people can be hurt like this.

[@Carsaddiction]

This comment is correct and thank you for highlighting this. The reason I mention you can do this on the floor is that Porsche says you can drive off to your nearest Porsche Center for emergency at only 100Nm torque, which is the amount and over I do in the air. The torque to 600Nm is required to hold the wheel during driving and extreme lateral forces during extreme G forces.

[@shahrukhbakar3248]

In an emergency, the CL nut is to be torqued to 100 Nm and then further by the angle mentioned on the CL nut. Do NOT drive off at 100 Nm since this is dangerously undertorqued! If the loosening torque is too low, the entire CL nut and hub assembly has to be replaced.

[@a.c.e.7568]

@@shahrukhbakar3248 EXACTLY.

[@esqu1re]

Good video. Centerlock looks cool, but the maintenance, required tools, and procedure makes this look so much slower than a 5 bolt, which defeats the purpose of the center lock. I am looking for a GTS as well. Beautiful yellow you have there!

[@rowenlawrence1797]

hi there how do you change a wheel bearing on a centrelock wheel thanks

[@a.c.e.7568]

The trouble with using a torque multiplier to tighten the centerlock is the torque is not accurate.

[@Carsaddiction]

Correct there can be a discrepancy of about 4%. And in an ideal world you have your tools re-calibrated every so often.

[@a.c.e.7568]

@@Carsaddiction Torque wrenches are accurate to 4% (or less), but torque multipliers can be off by as much as 20% but usually less. By the way at 0:05, you are best putting the arm of the torque multiplier against a 2x6 piece of lumber...it won't shatter.

[@davidcooper3871]

Don’t have a torque multiplier, but do have a 4’ breaker bar + extension pipe… no joy yet. They are TIGHT.

[@3dogdad]

Great video! Thanks for posting it.

[@udo8063]

How to torque to 600nm with Norbar 300nm?

[@Carsaddiction]

You would need a multiplier.

[@Hans58]

Hello I have a question I live in the Netherlands and where can I buy the wheel alignment tool ? Of can you send it to me of course with payment in advance .I have all ready fond some one .

[@Carsaddiction]

I bought it from Ed at [e-mail] he is popular on Rennlist

[@dh-automotive7505]

Hoi Hans, ergens het wheel alignment tool gevonden in Europa? grt, Harald

[@Hans58]

@@dh-automotive7505 nee wel in de US erg duur

[@robver26]

Very helpful thank you