PORTING the F out of it - Cylinder HEAD porting and polishing HOW TO - PROJECT UNDERDOG #6

[@d4a]

Become a Tuning Pro: hpcdmy.co/dr4a Support the channel by shopping through this link: amzn.to/3RIqU0u Patreon: www.patreon.com/d4a Carbide burrs: amzn.to/33PL5jK Porting rolls: amzn.to/2JKwxee Hold it like a pen: amzn.to/2VImJ7b Hold it like a man: amzn.to/36OWPVy

[@ThunderBassistJay]

Back in the day I did this to a Datsun 120Y head. It made the engine rev up significantly better. It brought me about 8 mph extra topspeed.

[@spiderdanielcoetser9148]

Im busy with my nissan L28 portinG .. And adding a Little turbo on to

[@ThunderBassistJay]

@@spiderdanielcoetser9148 Porting my GT86's boxer engine isn't that easy. The engine even has to be lifted to change spark plugs. 😬 On the other hand, I love the car as it is.

[@spiderdanielcoetser9148]

@@ThunderBassistJay Toyota pretty good pistons to head is vital

[@spiderdanielcoetser9148]

Nice car a 86

[@spiderdanielcoetser9148]

In my prof foto is myne car .. Its been sprayed bLaCk by me now

[@ILoveNeeps]

A rotary tool with a flexible shaft extension is really useful for doing this! The much smaller and lighter head allows you to hold it in one hand like a pencil whilst using your other hand as a rest/brace for your wrist.

[@d4a]

True! Definitely a good tip

[@SupraSav]

Don't push too hard on the carbide and it will never skip, that's also how you break teeth on it. Always let the rotation of the tool do the work - you will get the most life out of your carbide that way as well. There are also certain angles you should be using based on the type of carbide shape. Even as it dulls, you can lessen your pressure on it(which will lessen it's effectiveness) but allow you to keep using it. Most people just toss it for a new one, but when you are buying your own carbides, you will appreciate making as much use of each one as possible. I haven't taken my heads off yet, but I will definitely try this should I ever have to do a headgasket or something!

[@cimfur]

Aluminum dust is not good for health so I would recommend a mask that can filter the that dust. For example it is thought to be linked with Alzheimer’s disease among other health effects. I’m digging your videos thanks you for the effort and time.

[@psiturbo]

Besides having a mask... Spray wd-40 to lube down the dust, and have a vacuum running pointed to the cylinder head to pick up any air particles. I go as far as spray some oil to the table and have a wetted paper towel on it under the CH.

[@cimfur]

@@psiturbo right on good idea

[@themotobarn702]

Great point! Also, please, PLEASE wear safety goggles!!! I just learned that lesson after getting very fine cast iron dust in my eyes from porting my turbo exhaust manifold, and I was wearing glasses! Felt pain in my eyes hours later when I went to bed. Not fun! Flushing them out like crazy and seeing an optometrist today just to be sure. In the end, wear proper PPE!!!

[@firstNamelastName-ho6lv]

Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzheimer's. Dang, looks like I'm going to get Alzh.... Didn't I say that already?

[@gordythecreator]

That's something I could sit n do for HOURS. Satisfying to clean up metal. Similar to cleaning up welds.

[@ToxicMrSmith]

Then go be a fettler in a Foundry. I lasted half a day before walking out of that job.

[@SirCavemaninthewest]

@@ToxicMrSmith That sounds tiring... what was the foundry specialized in? I worked for Twin city fan in, IA.

[@mikerieck306]

​@@ToxicMrSmith Yeah....the novelty wears off very quickly.

[@ToxicMrSmith]

@@mikerieck306 couldn't do it , got handed a die grinder and went though maybe 7 - 800 parts and gave that shit up real quick.

[@ToxicMrSmith]

@@SirCavemaninthewest Cast iron. Sorry for the late reply, had notifs turned off

[@TurboJohn74]

Those sanding strips are lifesavers for a clean short turn

[@GW2_Live]

YESSSSSS! Project underdog is back!!!! I want to port my own cylinder heads maybe, so this will be good to watch. Thanks for all your videos!

[@davidparker9676]

I highly recommend that you don't port you own heads. Pay a professional or learn on scrap heads or your good heads will become scrap. It is easy to screw up, and this video is not a good example of what to do.

[@GW2_Live]

@@davidparker9676 I'm considering it, not set on it yet, may just get performance heads next year, they are quite expensive as I have a car not many people make parts for

[@davidparker9676]

@@GW2_Live If it is a street car, spend your money on the machine work and a good multi-angle valve job. I am a professional porter and I get tired of telling people why their car is slower on the street after they asked for a full race port job. Stock ports will support much more power than most street cars will ever make. Polishing the ports will actually hurt the tumble and swirl effects that keep the fuel atomized. The chambers also have a certain amount of squish that direct the intake mixture toward the plug. The factory has a lot more engineering and development into the stock head than this KZbinr can ever undo in his basement with his die grinder.

[@qkurd9141]

@@davidparker9676 my very first port job, was on my cylinder head at I did not screwed it! It was even my first experience with die grinder! Imagine I bought the electrical die grinder with some flexible part for it to do the grinding and I did not know the name of carbides that I needed! It is just fine as long as not using strong carbides, tightening up the cylinder head, have a tight seat, lots of light and hours of time! He just needs to start from inlet side as it is biggest hole in the cylinder head. Of course I started with exhaust side as it was least important place. So don't scare him please

[@qkurd9141]

@@davidparker9676 wrong! I am sick of people who believe they don't know shit, and factories know everything! Have you ever heard of production cost? Factory needs a profit margin and making cnc cylinder head for the cars that 99.9% of them will be used by people who have no idea what is the cylinder head is not reasonable! So what car-people can do??? costumize the parts to gain performance! Factories make cars for alllllllllll of different types of users and conditions. But you are one specific person who run his car in a certain condition. So why not costum the car for your specific use? Dyno has proved that port and polish works!

[@mr.buddha3657]

You really know engines! Good to see there are others out there still. Most 'Performance' shops don't know how to do this anymore.

[@maxmoughal5183]

That was awesome to watch, I'm disappointed it was so short, please sir can I have some more?

[@TomSlickery]

That's what she said.

[@esnevip]

Check out jafromobile he has a great long series on the subject, and many other aspects of engine building.

[@Pianissimo1970]

@@TomSlickery I was going to write that :-)

[@Dustii91]

I am so glad this was the 1st result when i researched porting a head. Perfectly explained! Thank you very much for the education sir.

[@facusan2339]

After hearing your title explanation, then I guess the car once is finished it will be fast as F, right?. oh no, even faster!

[@joshuachauke1652]

Good

[@vikassm]

Very nice video, such a simple and elegant way to explain things! Always remove casting flash even if it doesn't affect performance. Small chunks/chips of weak and long/webby casting flash sometimes breaks off due to changing vibrations. These chips gouge and marr various surfaces on their way through the oil galleries before getting caught by the oil filter. For everyday engines, this happens on a very tiny scale within the run-in period, and the pieces are so small that they don't do significant damage. But when you're driving flat-out for any significant amount of time, this is one step avoids pretty significant costs later on, especially considering how little time it takes. If the engine is open, might as well do it now! Also read up on surface finishing techniques including grinding, burnishing, lapping, honing, scraping & polishing. A carbide burr and sandpaper rolls aren't the only tools in the arsenal. You can use a plethora of cheap and plentiful tools to take your game to the next level. P.S. If anyone wants to validate this "theory" for merit, all you need to do is inspect any internal surface of an engine with a cheap USB microscope. Even at 50x magnification, the tell-tale marks appear gigantic. If your microscope can get to 500x, well, you can see something like the surface of the moon within your engine. 🤣🤣

[@JazzbLu]

Again you have so much detail of the airflow. How it moves and what to do to help it. I love engines and that is what you know a lot about! Thank you for helping me learn too!

[@curtisbeef]

Put painters tape on the valve seats. you can hit them accidently without doing damage.

[@clearclearerjesus4717]

Yeah i did the same. Just put some tape over the valve seat to protect it.

[@rafaeldiegonavarro]

or use a mill .

[@CP110]

@@rafaeldiegonavarro no, regular mill will not be able to the bowls. You would need a 5 axis cnc machine. And at a price tag of 184,000 usd. Some tape, steady hands and some carbide burs is way more practical.

[@rafaeldiegonavarro]

@@CP110 ahhh gotcha . makes sense now

[@dennisludwig6780]

You will loose a lot of Power!!

[@bagelbandit6076]

Good to see your dad helping you with the grinding. You look just like him minus the caterpillar on his lip. Ha ha

[@bagelbandit6076]

@Victor Smit did you seriously wait 6 months so you could comment this on Father’s Day?! Ha ha priceless

[@celicasaur]

I love watching your videos...they're so therapeutic! Gosh I remember when I ported my 2ZZ head little over 10 years ago....I spent 18 hours doing it over a long sunny weekend here in London.

[@NieJestemzPolskiPL]

Not gonna lie, with homemade methods this is full pro. Amazing video mate!

[@TriXelOne]

Great job, taking advantage of a better port geometry of F head is a great idea, thank You for Your videos and knowledge

[@DirtGearTv]

So glad I discovered your channel! Your knowledge and sense of what gear heads want from a video is just stellar 👍

[@byronrichards3001]

Thanks again for another session of performance boot camp.your knowledge and skill examples are very much appreciated. Keep informing the people...

[@fortuna_7777]

Thank you for this video of 4afe modifying!! This engine is great!! As far as I can imagine even boosted up it will still not bend the valves in case timing belt tears. It's only in case the upper shafts are left stock.

[@dotpeat1372]

Very pleased to see doing what I am doing with my old prewar car. Not for much power, more gaining reliability. It was misused in the past, lot damage and have to make own internal parts, like piston, as these are not available. Biggest problem, to find likeminded and knowledge sharing people. Thanks for this upload!!

[@thomasevans3097]

I’m curious about which pre war car you have..?

[@scottreed8190]

Everything you do should add a few horsepower. From the crank to the induction it all adds up to good power gains! Love your videos

[@jozsefizsak]

I well remember meticulously working on cast iron heads many years ago, correcting the shortcomings of mass production and whatever else was in play. Back then, there was no practical way of tuning a modified engine, the normal practice being to engage the services of someone "experienced" to drive the car and change the fuel metering needles in the SU carburetors until performance felt right. This procedure had been researched and found to wildly inadequate according to articles in serious journals but as twenty year olds, we did our best on meager budgets. My car felt very fast to me. but since the starting point was an engine that barely ran, it was not a meaningful comparison. It was only upon driving an unmodified car in reasonable condition that I recognized my error. My improvements had succeeded in throwing the mixture ratio and ignition timing out the window and trial and error was not a path to getting anywhere near adequate results. I had cut the power down by at least fifty percent while doubling fuel consumption. Lesson learned. (For the record, I'm sure you were not going to make the same mistake.)

[@davidmunroeprecisionengine6121]

Best, most informative porting video on KZbin. You know your stuff Amico.

[@ConquerDriving]

My old VX220 had a ported head, I've never seen it done though. Thanks for the video.

[@Mis73rRand0m]

I went through this on my 22re years ago with similar methods and was happy with the high-rpm results without losing anything down low. I feel gasket/port matching and bowl work were where the most gains were made.

[@generaldart6567]

Killing the moustache game

[@gasperjug7464]

Her: **What those finger do?** Him: 7:58

[@juanpaVlz]

Lol

[@elementaljosh]

Them exhaust ports got me actin strange 😳

[@hellgateiscloseddontgother8736]

Lol

[@XxMusclecarsxX]

Honestly wasn't expecting that good of a job!

[@Neudezign]

Nice video, some really good tips. For future reference though, please please please wear safety glasses when you do this! A carbide burr spinning at a couple thousand RPMs can easily send a piece of metal straight into your eye. Potentially losing part of your vision for few extra horses really isn't worth it. Work smart, work safe.

[@jockellis]

A magnet like eye doctors use to get steel out of your eye doesn’t work on aluminum.

[@CharlesVanNoland]

Great stuff, and great work - looks good! As a dude whose background is in CNC machining and working with metal stuff: wear eye protection! All it takes is one little speck that happens to be sharp to cut its way into your eyeball, it's not worth it! I had a friend who even had an eyelash get into his eye and pierce its way into his eyeball. If an eyelash can pierce an eyeball little metal chips most certainly can wreck havoc.

[@woodyTM]

Going to port the heads on my v-12. Even though I've done it before, I still enjoy watching these amazing videos to inspire and motivate me for the task ahead.

[@faxxzc]

Jonah Woodside damn are you finished yet? porting 48 ports must take ages

[@adrianhoeben5783]

What type of car you gonna be working on, like a Jaguar or Toyota crown.

[@woodyTM]

@@faxxzc ran out of free time, been too busy with client work to even touch my own projects, hopefully I'll be able to finish up in the next month.

[@woodyTM]

@@adrianhoeben5783 A Jaguar 5.3L from an 1989 XJS. Haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it, which is a blessing in disguise because the car is in extremely good condition so I get to really experience it stock which, in turn, would either persuade me to keep it stock if I'm happy with it or dive into a long rabbit hole of significant modifications with very little performance gains. As far as my research takes me, porting these heads hardly make much of a difference, but since I plan on doing just about everything you can do, the dozens of small number gains add up in the very end.

[@adrianhoeben5783]

@@woodyTM Oh wow :o I figured it could have been a Jag engine, funnily enough I have an 89 Daimler xj40. Its the slant 6 4L but could imaging a v12 :D , XJS's are a beautiful car.

[@warheads9676]

Simple and informative video, really awesome video, love it

[@honeyglazeham9621]

True quality content, I will pay for this.

[@sushpants]

awesome video as always, D4A! You do such a good job of explaining these technical topics.

[@paulshermet535]

I ported heads for several engines in my racing days. I used roll pins to locate the intake and a thin aluminium sheet to transfer the openings the intake so the connection was perfect. Then RTV silicone instead of a gasket. The exhaust burned any protruding into the port but the cylinder head temp was not enough to burn the seal. Same with the intake, the fuel won't melt the silicone in the sealed area. I also made the seats at the very edge of the valves so the valve acted like a bigger one, then shaped the port to round into the seat. Better flow measured on a flow bench. Lastly, leave the port a little rough past the injector or the fuel will not evaporate well on a polished surface. Prove that with an air blower on a sheet of glass with fuel on it.

[@randthompson5716]

I have always been drawn to porting & polishing and would have love to get into it. Time constraints were always an issue when I had the opportunities. Thanks for these vids!

[@akashmer]

So after doing a ton of discussions with engine guys here in MI, USA I found that you never need to grind larger than 91% of the intake valve opening. Thought your works looks like that or just below. I have saved this to view in porting my own head as "what it should look like" . My application the intake flow can be overcome with boost as my daily driver is a Saab. It does serve to do this work for racing applications but not for everyday driving. Porting the mating surfaces works for that. Also.. I would LOVE you to do a video on P&P of the turbo exhaust housing. Next chance you get....No one does that stuff and pulling a little radius here and there makes them spool soooo much faster. My TD04 needed 150g of metal taken out of the turbine manifold flange. It was silly just a round hole on the turbine housing and the manifold was an open square. Can wait to get it running.

[@qkurd9141]

Great! Man you are my #1 KZbinr! I do love the way you look into mechanic. We are pretty much identical while talking about cars! Although I love motorbikes as well. Right know I'm working on force inducting a MPI II 3.3, Inlet VVT. I am using the stock internal with below changes: genuine pistons (I have cut the head for 0.09mm to decrease C.Ratia), connecting rods (there are different kinds of C.Rods, mine are great), oil pump (I have lowered cogwheel teeth to speed it up also by tightening the return valve and lowering the inside cogwheels capacity, I have increased the oil pressure as this engine is famous for bearing problems). Cylinder head (prt & plsh+increasing ignition chamber vol.by grinding walls and buttom of the valves) I also have a motorbike (Hyosung GT250R under turbolization🤣 which is my most advance project with ⅔ of the internal replaced with cnc mashined parts. The last project is a Peugeot 405 which does have ECU, complete inj. system, wtr-met inj., turbo, 1.3 supercharger, a costume turbo, intercooler, costume water and oil radiator merged together, but it has no engine yet. I can't decide what to put into her! I just want it to be AWD + 4 inline. Is it fine to ask your advice time to time!? I am United Nations employee, but I have 12 years of tuning experience, although I have only 6 force inducting projects in my resume, which 3 of'em are not finished yet!

[@qkurd9141]

Gosh I've wrote an essay!!! Sorry dude...

[@coatingsplatingsjas1powder557]

What i love about what your saying is that you know exactly what you want good work bro

[@honeyglazeham9621]

Thank you so much, I wonder if I can make a living doing this for others? This seems like therapy to me.

[@d4a]

Lots of people make a living doing this and related work 😊

[@jannikgrashoff6466]

9:40 I think everyone who has a little bit of passion for engines understands immediately why you are doing it and would do the same. No need to explain ; )

[@peterrivney552]

For the intake I would give it a light sandblasting with low pressure to lightly ruffen the port for air/fuel mixture you want to keep it mixed.. That is a good choice of cleaning up the oil Gally I chamfer the edges as well as clean up the cast marks I do this to all my motors.. My exhaust ports I pollish like a mirror... I don't know what you block looks like but if there are ruff casting burrs I take those down as well it helps in many ways if oils drips down and also strengthens the block I remember seeing a few old V-8's crack almost in half from Tork... I'm glad to hear you say about measuring the combustion chambers to make them equal.... Casting flash please do remove it if it chips off can do lots of damage and strengthens the block from cracking it might seem like it don't matter but it really does... Very good job... But never polish the intake port keep it ruff for air /fuel mixture but combustion chamber and exhaust ports polish like a mirror.. looks like you did a very good job on that one on two of my race motors going all out with a good 100 H.P. gains then my spare milder street heads a good 75 H.P. gains Keep up the good work ... P.S. I don't know if this would apply to you motor or not but on my Oldsmobile's on the big end of the crankshaft I had an oil relief slot ground on the side 1/2" wide by 25Thousands deep I also put oil restriction in my camshaft oil Gally and chamfered my crankshaft oil galleys along with cross drilling them with a bigger oil pan and high volume oil pump with bigger pickup tube..

[@enchantedwenis4994]

PORT MATCH! Not gasket match. Gaskets do not determine how components line up during assembly. I love your sand paper technique. I never thought of that before.

[@ΒασίλειοςΦραγκουλόπουλος]

A good tip for porting its using ballstones and keep them allways wet with WD40 and low r.p.m. it helps keeping same diameter and very smooth surfaces especially near the bowl .Very nice chanel and nice porting...

[@deciplesteve]

Welcome back. Hope the family is well.

[@d4a]

All good, thank you 😊

[@JeffReeves]

Digging the stash, bro! It's good to see some new episodes up

[@fila1445]

by the looks of it you can skim the F out of cylinder head to rise compression ratio for N/A aplication

[@thomas316]

Yeah, porting for forced induction engines is really a bit of a waste if time but tidying up the casting is worthwhile.

[@brianpeters4486]

Great video. Hit the mark on all aspects of this. Aluminum is a dream to work with. Cast iron takes a bit more effort 😁

[@SpeedDemonExpress]

One other thing you can do is use wax on your carbides, stones and sanders when working on aluminum. It will make a huge difference in finish, working speed, and heat.

[@KensWorldRestorations]

This is a great video and applies to motorcycle heads as well. I know this might sound like I'm nagging Nellie, but probably a really good idea to wear eye protection when doing this - and any other metal work. You were really close to the bit on a number of occasions. One flying chunk and it's over. I like wearing regular reading glasses since they have a very small magnification index and even cheap ones are made with polycarbonate lenses. Thanks again for all your amazing content.

[@ze_german2921]

I have pulled metal out of my eye ball twice, the last time an eye doctor had a miniature Dremel getting the metal out. I also wore safety eye glasses last time around but it was summer time and right after I finished using a die grinder cleaning my weld tacks, I turned on the fan and it pushed all the metal passed my glasses. When you do this type of work, I highly recommend a face shield. This is the type of work why they invented a face shield to begin with. I am not trying to sound like a concerned Karen but you have to think about the Noobs taking lessons of what you are teaching. They will learn the good and the bad.

[@jrmyadventr]

Idk if I'm going to need to Port my d16y8 head much, but this is definitely a good vid for some tips and tricks. I definitely agree with cleaning up flash it just feels better to have a cleaner looking product. I had a job were I worked on Chevy heads so I'm pretty familiar with valve seats and cleaning up the ports and such

[@802Garage]

I would imagine smoothing sharp edges must have some impact on how smoothly the combustion mixture flows away from squish areas and how it swirls. Likely reducing sudden heat risers and I would think improving the overall burn. Given you're going forced induction, I'm guessing most of your gains here will be from the exhaust work, which looks very nice. Pure speculation on my part though. Great work as always.

[@Ccspecialtytool]

Great Video! Thank you for helping explain the trade-off in porting and polishing it's definitely not just removing all that silly metal the factory left😅. We got some tools you might want to check out some day. Could make projects like this much easier and more precise. Actually they could be used on lots of your projects. Thanks for putting great content out.

[@pauldean8638]

Always gets me about people who think they can do professionals jobs giving out advice but then admit they don’t have a clue ha ha cracks me up every time , just like a loose fitting gasket you port Match without no way of installing it back holding the same placement

[@DrCrunkMusic]

On modern performance engines some nice tooling is used to replicate the valve seat blending on mass. For example during guide boring on the f type v8, the reaming tool also cuts and blends the seats on the same pass. Clever stuff, but again on really seen on higher performance vehicles

[@hdrenginedevelopment7507]

Yes, definitely need eye protection. Fishing a metal chip or a sandpaper grit out of your eye really sucks, and you’ll only be doing that once before always keeping eye protection at the porting bench...if you’re lucky enough that nothing was damaged in the process. Sanding rolls in the bowls are a bit risky to valve seats (and naked eyes 😉...) due to their tendency to unexpectedly shed pieces, grow flaps, or sometimes outright self destruct. I carefully use a nice rounded profile carbide burr to fix the core shift and casting flash and finish either with a rubber abrasive cartridge or by hand (I prefer hand finishing myself...especially for exhaust ports...it really does finish a lot smoother than any rotary tool, especially if you are going for absolute maximum power potential). Also, there are a lot of benefits to a raw carbide finish in the intake ports. It acts like a wick and helps vaporize fuel on the walls, among a few other things that would turn this comment into an essay (and the added bonus of saving a lot of finishing stages).

[@michaelgunning347]

The flat are in combustion chamber is quench pads , used for the placement of the mix with in the cylinder , run the intakes rough say 80 or 60 grit , think of it like a mirror , breath on a mirror and the condensation sticks to the mirror , same with fuel droplets , good work

[@carbonf40]

Nice video! Always enjoy your stuff. Suggestions for you for the next head you port. Use a Dremel with the flex shaft attachment. Much easier to get around those tight corners due to the small handle and light weight. The other one is to use some heavy tape to protect the valve seats. You can even put a washer between layers of tape for added protection. That'll keep them safe no matter how many beers you had before you start porting the head. (Yes, its funny how many things seem like a good idea after a few beers...)

[@1crazypj]

The mismatch on exhaust is probably deliberate as it helps prevent reversion. Generally, leave about 3~5mm 'step' at least half way around port turning it into a 'D' laying on it's 'flat' The main areas of improvement are just below seat on short turn and the 'throat' where port should be 'necked' at a smaller diameter to increase gas speed. To un-shroud valves, I find it's better to do some math and make a 'washer on a stick' to check clearance. I usually use a piece of plastic cutting board (nylon/polyethelene, cheapest you can find) use a hole saw to get 'blank' then put a bolt in it and spin in electric drill. File to about 45 degree angle with whatever the max dia you work out. Cut a smaller one or two to get 'correct' throat diameters (usually 80%~87% of valve diameter, maybe a little more with forced induction. You need about 0.20 of valve diameter at closest point to head at about a quarter of valve diameter lift (ie, 35mm dia valve x 0.25= 8.75mm lift with 7mm clearance,or, a 49mm washer.) It isn't always possible if valves are close to combustion chamber edge but angled valves are usually pretty good for un-shrouding as lift increases. I used to work almost exclusively on motorcycles but have built a couple of quick cars in the past (150mph Opel Manta GTE as daily driver, only did about 25mpg though, wasn't possible for me to drive it 'slow')

[@enmanuelgarcia5235]

Great job, It looks very professional.

[@colinbatchford8007]

I have ported 3 single cylinder twin port bike heads a honda xr600,a KTM 660 and a Rotax 551.A tool shop chain in the UK sells a 3 pack of 30mm diameter X 5mm flap wheel that I use in my Dremel.They are ideal for my porting work and find porting heads quite thereputic.

[@TheBillzilla]

I'd be very interested in seeing the power figures when it's done.

[@negativeindustrial]

Best content. I’ve got that spare 3S-GTE T-VIS Head in the corner just collecting dust...

[@Pulsarr1]

Those old engines laying around are dangerous, I've got a 2nd gen 3S-GTE just sitting in my garage after doing a 5th gen swap. I keep seeing it and wanting to build it into high horsepower engine, and find my self casually browsing craigslist for a car to put it in. I really should just sell the engine to get rid of that temptation.

[@negativeindustrial]

@@Pulsarr1 That head is sitting next to the “built motor” 2nd gen I bought. I intend to go over that one with a fine tooth comb. The sickness is real. 🤣

[@nepzski]

i learn so much from this channel

[@Shenkosky]

I got the most gains out of porting the intake plenum elbow on my V8 it had high sidewall corners that needed removal and dimpling the floor and 90 degrees radius also helped. 17hp and 26tq to the wheels for 4 hours of time and basically zero cost if you have tools was a very hard to beat upgrade without even touching the throttle body at all.

[@greensheen8759]

You can get even smoother results and less dust going everywhere by periodically spraying some alcohol on the head. That's essentially what the coolant for machining aluminum is

[@tsoras_alex]

Doing this on my 4E-FE head! Thanks for the inspiration. Cheers

[@troywatty7453]

Hey man I'm doing the same thing how did you get on?

[@troywatty7453]

Is there anyway I can contact you

[@Buciasda33]

pretty good explanation, thank you and good luck with your project. I'd like to rebuild my engine and while everything is taken apart... I might also do this.

[@VADproductions]

Can you please do a n/a 4afe with port and polish and some other tips to get it running strong. I currently have a 4afe producing 90.6kw & 159nm with only exhaust header and a 50mm exhaust back box + induction Would be awesome to see what you do to get some tips bro

[@cgberz]

Casting flash? Sounds like weight reduction material. ;]

[@wendellgreenidge3362]

Awesome job, that head looks really good after that work

[@johnfletcher264]

You can build a simple flow bench with a shop vac and a vacuum gauge to make sure you're head is flow matched it won't give an indication of power potential though.

[@franklynpertuz7669]

That was great thank you thank you thank you wonderful knowledge you always come up with something really good and great explanations

[@milomanx6531]

Words of wisdom at the start of this video. Head porting is like a camshaft, too big and it will only work at high rpm. While regular driving suffers from too much porting!

[@dbouloubasis]

Nice job man. You should also go for a) "3 angle job" b) cfm for perfect balance and max results

[@Maxim-S.]

Отличная работа. Думаю, применительно 4efe эти манипуляции тоже принесут прибавку в динамике. Куплю головку 4efe на свалке, попробую сделать то же самое. Всё равно, мотор надо вынимать, масло течёт везде

[@zeroswings2]

mask it up! don't breathe aluminum dust!! I can certainly appreciate the work going into this though!!

[@michaelvinciguerra4369]

That mustache is fantastic

[@jr78racer]

The object of porting is to correct casting flaws that inhibit the true flow characteristics the engineer designed into the head, not enlarge them or change their shape. The object of unshrouding the valve is to provide a straight path off the valve and into the cylinder with minimal turbulence. A multi angle valve and seat cut would really help low lift flow.

[@gregsmith8032]

Been doing this for 30 years found out a long time ago taking a SS 1/4 hex bolt 4 in cut off threads and hex head an slot bolt about a 1) inch and put green scotch bright in it and polish final port does a great job

[@IcarusTECH]

Grinding metal without safety glasses... smart, lol...

[@gc33]

I've done my gl1100 heads... Not for performance but more efficiency. I have also polished them with scotch brite wheels in my dremel. Looking forward to running it.

[@caig9868]

The video I never knew I needed.

[@TheMoo-o]

how much gain is there to be expected from a job like this on a 1.6 na engine at 115-120 hp ? im curious and i kinda want to do this on my lancer

[@terjejohnsen3651]

Good to see your back and that top look so good now . Nice to see how its done. It will be interesting to look what power you get on it this aw11, she will taxing out and fly.

[@mauricedavis2905]

1 tip i can add is blending the valve seat into the roof of the chamber. It really helps low lift flow. Just imagine the valve ar .100 lift and you have a .05 wall for the air to get around.

[@Shashank_Bhandya]

You explain dammn good😁😁

[@krisnestorurian9127]

More videos of project underdog please! Mo’ powah!

[@MichaelAMangone]

Please don't give up! I'm copying your build for my own AW11. Thanks for uploading your progress.

[@d4a]

No reason to give up as long as I'm alive and well. I built a 4age twice already so I know the drill by know. This is a bit more ambitious but still doable.

[@cliffcampbell8827]

I remember when porting a cylinder head ment going to a shop and they would hook the head up to a machine that would push a substance that was like silly putty with sand in it at around 300 psi through the intakes...have you ever thought about making swirl marks (all in one direction) in your intake ports? To help the intake pass the air/fuel mix along, making something like a mini tornado effect? Tumbling air does help with fuel vaporization but spinning air does this as well with the added benefit of moving more easily (if the properties of fluid dynamics are to be believed). I could be way off, swirling air/fuel could negatively effect flow rates, but it just seems right to me.

[@robroyce6845]

mirror polishing head exhaust ports and intake ports shows some performance improvement mainly in heat efficiency

[@Patches-vq8cd]

Excellent video, I wonder what effects this would have to a turbo diesel?

[@of_lion22]

Great video. If you're familiar with Jafromobil, this video feels similar to his 4G63 head porting videos.

[@MrReivn]

Nice job here, good quality finish. Have you thought about making a video about porting, gasket matching, and finishing of the intake side and throttle body of an 4A-FE?

[@LikeZO]

I spent about 20 hours cumulative porting the cylinder head on my CA18DET. Some will never experience the sweat, blood and tears that goes into getting performance out of your engine.

[@lockjawjak]

I am getting through doing this on my 7M, the casting lines and stuff are way worse than any 4A engine! Just on the port side of the valve seat alone was several mm of right angles and big burs, my extended die grinder bits just arrived this arvo so I can do deeper in the ports now which is sweet. I havent used the sandpaper rolls yet, just need a few days off work...

[@d4a]

Good luck man, the crappier the casting the more benefits from doing this!

[@idko5452]

Awsome ❤️ beatuiful work and explanation what does what 👌🏻 I have learned all this in about 1 month and you tell everithing in 15min 😂😂 I agree with everithing u said, but I really preffer mirror finish on exhaust ports for best flow possible and allso minimal carbon buildup, otherwise awsome man 👌🏻 I really like it.