Possibly the best value groupset in existence!

[@GerritWilmink]

Have this groupset on my roadbike. Absolutely no Problems on a 2840k Tour through Europe.

[@daviddjerassi]

This channel deserves 500,000 subscribers NOW the amount of solid money saving information you give us in every video is off the scale THANK you Luke Trace Velo.

[@ricardosilva-xz1yt]

Very true. Money saving. At what cost? So instead of spending thousands on a campi you spend hundreds on chineese stuf. The Chineese comunist party apreciates your donation.

[@blondi195656]

😂

[@RylHango]

@@ricardosilva-xz1yt businesses in china are privately owned what are you on about, the money goes to Ltwoo who are pushing the competition in a duopoly market

[@michaelatkinson7577]

@@ricardosilva-xz1yt man types on i-phone.....

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

B-Roll transitions to the beat of the music..... going the extra editing mile there, Luke!! 😉

[@TraceVelo]

Haha, glad you liked it! Took me about 2 hours to edit that 20 second clip 🤣

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

@@TraceVelo And it shows 🤣. Oh, and hope you didn't leave that 105 lever on the post. Jon

[@TraceVelo]

@@ribblevalleycyclist So I did actually bugger off without it, but realised before I got back home and it was still there 😅

[@ribblevalleycyclist]

@@TraceVelo Haha..... I knew you would. I was watching, and thinking to myself, I bet he leaves that lever on that post 🤣🤣🤣. Oh, and changing the subject, have you had the new gravel groupset from Wheeltop yet?

[@TraceVelo]

@@ribblevalleycyclist LOL no, they never sent it to me. I mean I obviously dont know for sure, but I assume it was because I was quite critical of the EDS-TX. How is it though?

[@RustyRacer]

Full cable housing was basically a must for my AliExpress TT build. I haven't adjusted my shifting for 10 years! 🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@WredFawks]

Who did you go with for the frame? 10 years on I don't expect the same frame to be in production but if the makers are still around

[@ZwiftDude]

You are the best for exploring alternatives. Everyone else is just a cheap knock off.

[@wtfiswiththosehandles]

I have this r9 with carbon cage and levers. I absolutely love it, it's been great over 3000kms. Never missed a shift, never failed during braking. Also it's very friendly for people with smaller hands because you don't have to move the large lever to shift like with shimano. I very much prefer this campy style shifter lever/button combo. Good thing you fixed shifting, because I was wondering that I never had the issues you had. Have a baguette 🥖 or two 🥖

[@fritte1684]

Just finished a built with a full Shimano 105 11-speed groupset (disc). Bought most parts at sale prices and paid about 350€ for the whole set, not bad at all.

[@BICIeCOMPUTERconGabriele]

@@fritte1684 definitely better than no name Chinese crap

[@jkmaster8070]

Thats an insane price for new, I wonder how you managed that

[@arviddh]

@@jkmaster8070 Yea, seriously. I could probably get the levers for that price at discount xD

[@FT__Cool_Stuff______-of5pi]

crankset, cassette, and chain included? If so that is a ridiculously good price

[@fritte1684]

@@jkmaster8070 The best savings I got on the shifters. Pre-mounted with the hydraulic brake calipers, I paid €130. The crankset in the 52/36 172.5mm version was also very affordable at €70. However, it’s important to note that I bought the parts piece by piece over a period of three months while building the bike. So I had enough time to look for good deals.

[@FurySpyder]

I (nearly) always use cable stops as full outers will always cause more friction (especially with age/wear) but this comes with two major caveats - 1) ensure that there is actually direct line of sight between the stops and the BB cable guide. It looks like this might not be the case through your chainstay due to the angle of the cable? 2) use liners wherever the inner cable touches anything, ie the BB cable guide, which in theory should only be the cable guide, but I have done builds where the inner has contacted the exit hole below the front derailleur or elsewhere internally. Using cable stops also means there are more opportunities for moisture and dirt to get in, so there are times I'd always go for full outers, e.g. on a winter bike. Great video!

[@ThunderStruckMTB]

Thank you for getting upshift and downshift correct! Most cyclists always get it backwards because they can see the cassette.... just a pet peeve of mine!

[@chrisbowman2030]

Great video again! Perfect timing, because this is the perfect groupset for a winter bike build.

[@valmorell]

Full cable outers is an old pro trick Luke. I always drill out the stops and fit full cables. Lighter more accurate shifting that stays in adjustment longer. Cool. On a slightly different tack, if you get the chance, try the new version ZTTO cable/hybrid brake calipers, the mk 5 version. Night and day compared to previous. Ceramic pistons, improved leverage and oil ways, metallic pads all standard. I am so impressed I chucked of my hydraulic system and fitted these with Sensah shifting to all my bikes.

[@TraceVelo]

Thanks for the tip-off on those new ZTTO brakes!! Definitely gonna have to check them out!!!!!!

[@lorenzohsu2442]

I've been searching for some good hybrid brake calipers. Happy to see this comment! Does anyone know how if there are any defining features that I can reference to so I can verify if the model I'm looking at is the mk5 version?

[@rosomak8244]

THe problem with hybrids is durability.

[@TimInertiatic]

I'm trying a cheap hybrid front caliper with a sensah build as a test. I'll bear the ztto in mind!

[@alextorresphoto]

Thanks for the ztto recommendation!! Have to try it with my sensah!

[@SynthesisThirty]

I have an Ltwoo R2 Shifter and RD (the cheapest Ltwoo road bike group set) for almost a year now.. used it for ~4000 Km with relatively minimal issues.. I broke the shifter hoods once but the replacement part is available on their shop.. the pins that hold the brake lever came loose once, I just put it back and it didn't come loose again.. Overall i have a good impression for this brand, easy to install and use. Very cheap and seemingly reliable.

[@ivanjednobiegowiec7656]

Maaate... That bonus part puts EVERYTHING into perspective. Some time ago I upgraded my Whyte Cornwall (cable stops in the frame) into Whyte Wessex (no cable stops, uninterrupted outer throughout the frame) and was surprised why shiting on the same groupset is so much better. Supper-dupper piece of advice to get rid of frame stops 👍👍👍

[@frankswildy]

Regardless of who makes it, it's generally not recommended to sh*t on a groupset 😂

[@ivanjednobiegowiec7656]

@@frankswildy good point 😆 Says a lot about my autocorrect default 😜

[@mybugmybug]

My Walmart Gravel Bike came with a set of L-TWOO shifters. Those bikes have internal cable routing and the cable housing runs the full length from the shifters to the derailleur. Makes sense why mine shifts so easily and precise. Literally, out of the box, it only required 2 quarter turns on the barrel for mine to work perfectly. mine has been through, rain, dust, mud, grass, and it performs solid!!! These are impressive for sure

[@CanyonWanderer]

Your unlimited enthusiasm at the 🥖 end 🥖of the clip is beyond compare a s usual! I'm really tempted right now to try this groupset on my commuter

[@hockysa]

🥖 quarter of the price for 90% of the performance? new groupset of the people!! 🎉

[@lolczyslaf]

I'd like bike manufacturers start using Chinese brands on western markets making the bike prices much lower and two current groupset monopolist rethink their prices as well. Until then, people need to be aware that they have an option and have to buy it separately. Not everybody is capable of replacing a groupset on their own.

[@jkmaster8070]

@@lolczyslaf they do already, it's called microshift. Decathlon bikes have it but I don like the way shifting action feels on that thing

[@lolczyslaf]

​@@jkmaster8070I know microshift but it's bad basically and used on the cheapest bikes possible. What I meant, is using those high quality groups from Sensah, Ltwoo or Wheeltop in mid to high range bikes or all ranges from lowest to highest, as they are clearly superior in terms of price to quality ratio.

[@jkmaster8070]

well, @TraceVelo reviewed Micronew and said it was very good (better than previous gen LTwoo). And Micronew is a copy of Microshift btw... that's as good as these chinese shifters get.

[@hockysa]

@@lolczyslaf we’re slowly seeing this happen with local retailers starting to stock these brands. There needs to be loca support and parts for the wider consumer to adopt.

[@Raymond-Farts]

I am so happy there are good options coming to market that will fight Shimano's pricing.

[@MTB-Portugal]

Dude, you are the greatest! I'm going to build a cheap bike just to use exclusively on my smart trainer (so I don't have to constantly take the road bike on and off) and I'll follow your advice and suggestions. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us! Keep producing this amazing content. Thanks!

[@M.F.Hafizhan]

Good to see that ltwoo has improved their stuff

[@TraceVelo]

Yeah they get a lot of stick, but it seems like they legitimately care about making some decent gear...

[@matt_acton-varian]

​@@TraceVelo well said. Even if they have previously made OEM products for the name brands, designing new from scratch for the first time themselves will always leave teething troubles. It requires a mix of trial-and-error and reverse engineering to figure out what practices work, what is proprietary IP and what development paths are open outside of infringement.

[@BikeVibes4You]

Fantastic video! Even after all this time, you keep raising the bar with every upload. I can’t wait for the next one!🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@Jonathan-vf6cu]

Another option for the internal cable routing - my giant tcr uses a clear outer cable for the internally run sections after the cable stops, it’s a little little thinner and more flexible than the standard black outer cable and really seems to protect and help shifting in that bottom bracket area.

[@vongdong10]

Holy crap. The latest 105 12sp mechanical is about $1500aud. That's insane.

[@seraph4581]

I bought it for $300 on aliexpress. No crank though but it worked fine with my 11 speed one.

[@lethalhandyman1979]

In Belgium we can get 105di2 for 900€

[@blubug768]

is that at least di2 price?

[@vongdong10]

@@blubug768 Nope. 105 Di2 is about ($1900) which I believe was the old Di2 ultegra 11sp price.

[@vongdong10]

@@lethalhandyman1979 yep about the same price in Oz

[@radripperaj]

Awesome video! I always tell everyone you are the ultimate guru when it comes to finding quality Chinese cycling products.

[@outdoor75]

I love it how happy you are when you solved the shifting! I'm thinking of doing a full chinese build budget 1500 aud. See how I go!

[@dtaylor4319]

I've got a Ribble CGR with Ultegra that until recently I had never been able to get to shift cleanly and I suspected excess friction somewhere. My internally routed frame had end stops top & bottom of the down tube and front and rear of the chainstay and about a year ago (in desperation having tried everything else) I removed the downtube stops so there was a single outer from the shifter all the way to under the bottom bracket, this made a vast improvement! I think the end stops were introducing a kink in the cable due to angle change at the entry/exit points creating friction. Your video has encouraged me to now go 'all the way' with one continuous outer from shifter to RD, cheers!

[@LAMF24]

My only gripe - the Campy style downshift knobs.

[@bobrogers7004]

Upshift

[@greggy5723]

THANKK YOUUU!!! I WASS LOOKING FOR A REVIEW FOR THISS VERSIONNNNN LOVEEEE THIS CHANNEL

[@DrFlashburn]

On frame stops- they are the best option when they are external and don't have to go around that dirty plastic piece you pointed out. The frame does not compress like cable housing does. You can also wax your shifter and rim brake cables for extra juicy friction reduction and cable protection.

[@chrisscott8362]

Wax cables!? Now that sounds like a brilliant hack. Can I use my chain wax? Just stick it in the pot? Thanks for the education.

[@BurntToast1]

I’ve been running the R9 1x11 group set on my gravel commuter as a daily driver for about 18 months. It’s been brilliant. Agree with your findings, 100%. I definitely notice the snappiness when I jump on my road bike with 2x11 ultegra mechanical, but the R9 is exceptional for the price and in my experience, the reliability has been perfect.

[@katsui]

Good to know. I am choosing between Ltwoo and Sensah 1x11 groupset. Did you chekc Sensah too?

[@BurntToast1]

@@katsui I actually had the sensah 1x11 on the bike previously. Shifting was comparable to the L-twoo but I upgraded for the hydraulic disc brakes on the L-twoo which is vastly superior to the old mechanical disc brakes I had. I thought the sensah hoods were more comfortable, but that’s all they had over the L-twoo IMO.

[@katsui]

@@BurntToast1 Thanks for taking your time to reply. I will consider this. I was not thingbout about upgrading break, but maybe it is a good idead to chenge all at once.

[@huggcycles1545]

Luke you legend, another video which you smashed out of the park! I love the aliexpress, but sadly I only run one bike, I'm now tempted to build a second with all these fantastic bargain products. Keep on rollin' 🥖

[@jackriley1989]

Another great video, still here to say the mustache should return. I use framestops but I always use those plastic inner routing guides for cables. Especially around the bottom bracket etc where is exposed to dirt and friction. Can get the same tension from stop-stop, but keep the cable in a smooth tube otherwise

[@space.youtube]

Why would you run naked cables through the plastic BB cable routing guide? Use the white tubing (Cable housing inner liner) that comes with frames to help route cables through the frame tubes, we call it "spaghetti" . Just cut a small segment of about 6cm in length, run the cable through it at the BB cable guide and you get smooth frictionless cable travel and weather proofing without the weight penalty of running full length outers. Kind of surprised you weren't doing this already if I'm being honest. Edit: Also, you get better feel and response with shorter lengths of cable outer. Compressionless outers are ok but they aren't nearly as resistant to compression as the lengths of exposed cable between solid cable stops.

[@nlfiets]

There is inner liner with teflon coating on the inside. If you use that then you know it will be smooth and clean for a long time.

[@space.youtube]

@@nlfiets Treating cables with wax or silicon spray also works a treat. 👍🏻

[@petert8931]

This is the post I was looking for. Exactly right. Just use inner liners. They have been around forever and are on all my bikes with that guide things under the BB, even my steel vintagesque bike.

[@kenhiew2900]

💯

[@juanmiguelalejandrino]

Those cable guides flex when we apply pressure, hence the missed shifts. No naked cable is the way to go. Just don't forget to add the foam tube to avoid that annoying rattling sound.

[@akaraikiriakatsuki3157]

I don't really plan to buy a road bike right now but when I do I will check your channel for it

[@carlosgabin5215]

I literally just went through this day ago I was like 🤯thanks for all the great content👊🏼👍🏼

[@zWjwR8biM_st]

BTW, you are one of the most excellent presenters I’ve ever seen. You deserve to be a GCN presenter, or maybe you can even surpass them with your own channel. 😂

[@edulpn]

I recently upgraded my Salsa Journeyer Apex 1 to GRX RX600 and reused the stock Jagwire housing run (full housing from shifter to derailleur) for the rear mech cable, which was a breeze. I believe it's more of a concern on gravel/mountain bikes to not contaminate the cable on the BB routing area, but for non-pro (weight savings and whatnot) use I just don't understand why one would not prefer using full housing runs.

[@Bill-qf7tn]

I live in the middle of Nebraska farm land & closest bike shop now is 5hr round trip so your help with internet parts & sales help immensely

[@bbarber6845]

Great work as always. Glad you played around more to fix the shifting. Great tips

[@LordFata]

Running the GR9 gravel carbon variant for roughly a year now. It's fantastic, shifts and looks beautiful, survived roughest terrain and a gravel race. Bleeding was easy as well. 2 things worth noting: About once a month, upshifting is blocked until I downshift and upshift again. Non-issue really, and may only affect mine. Second issue is the shape of the shifters. They taper a bit towards the front, making you "fall" to the front more than on e.g. SRAM, and the thumb lever blocks a possible hand position. I'd still 100% buy again, GF loves them too

[@buch0039]

Amazing advice and problem solving. Always a pleasure to watch. Do your thang Luke! 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@victrolaman2007]

🥖🥖 I think there is something to full cable housing routed shift cables. I have run 5700 105, 6800 Ultegra, 7800 and 7900 Dura ace drive trains on various single and tandems and every one of them had finicky shifting that required a lot of faffing to keep operational. About 3 years ago I bought a low end gravel bike with Tiagra 4700 and that bike's shifting has been spot on with no issues whatsoever. The shift cables on that bike have cable housing for the full run from the brifter to the derailleurs. This might be an interesting investigation for your channel. Thanks for the great content, keep it coming! 🥖🥖

[@aremu4k]

Thanks for a great review as always Luke😎

[@miconaturis580]

There are cables housing called fish bone that are considered to be light. I think they would be the perfect solution to your problem with rear derailleur.

[@alioshin]

Yep, got this gruppo on my commuter, love it, installed it with full-length housing off the gate. To be honest, I'm quite shocked you weren't using full length cable housing, considering how many times you rebuild your frames. You route the housing once, then just slip new cables in. I also pass the cables through fingers greased with a bit of Shimano mineral oil before they go in.

[@CyclingAlgarvePortugal]

WOW! Super cool, great vid as always!

[@alextorresphoto]

🥖 sign my bread Luke! I also realized keeping the housing together works better once I built a bike with external routing. Maybe internal routing leads to headaches because of this but I’m surprised other group sets work so well without the sleeve. I like sensah 11 spd hydro because of the lever style and so far so good but very nice to see the brakes from L-Two. The price is great also!

[@arose62]

Ah-ha! I've been looking at & thinking about the LTWOO R5 in order to add hydraulic braking to my existing Sora groupset, and I never noticed the little thumby gizmo for shifting. After watching this video, I went back and looked carefully at the listings, and they ALL have pictures from the outside of the shifters! Only occasionally can I see a sliver of thumbything or its shadow - it's like Ltwoo is trying to hide the fact, and make purchasers think they're getting Shimano-style controls. So thank you, many 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖!

[@diedrino]

Hi, I’m trying to get hydraulic braking to my 9speed sora, do you think is possible?

[@로드웨이]

I thought the outer cable would increase the friction, but it was amazing that the shift performance was good.

[@baconbreadwithbacon]

I'm definitely using this for my build. Saves me some serious money for other things. Cheers.

[@owenchase4017]

Thanks for the tip about running full length shift cable housing all the way to the RD. Another little tip that works for me is to use a short section of plastic sleeve, like that often used in the brake noodles used with V brakes on mountain bikes, where the otherwise exposed shift cable goes under the BB.

[@LawrenceSeetoh]

Thank you Luke, and that is great advice about the shifter housing 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@UKBROOKLYN]

OK Luke fantastic vid as usual.. Will be interesting to see how the group survives an English winter.. Hey what about looking into budget cranksets..

[@rosomak8244]

My RIRO carbon survived this summer season and a few thousands km. However stay away from those lightweight aluminium ones with straight arms. The tend to break.

[@UKBROOKLYN]

@@rosomak8244 wow thats pretty dam cheap for a carbon crankset..

[@robbiek4400]

The big catch is actually getting it. Every time I’ve tried to buy the latest l-Twoo group set some KZbinr told me about it is never available or otherwise sold out. That’s a problem when you are in the middle of a bike build.

[@GunnerGetYa]

Great video Luke.... (it's in the Aili basket) ❤ Quick hack which can help improve shifting - add plenty of oil to the cable outers before inserting the gear cable. 🥖🥖🥖

[@kaseycarpenter73]

So I have the erx groupset, and I can say that the braking is absolutely perfect for me. You can feather and before you bottom out on the lever pull - and I mean JUST before - you can lock 'em up. This means you have a larger usable range of variable stopping power from zero to total lock. I don't know the science, or if this is just due to my setup, but they're the best brakes I've ever used.

[@edboy_1]

As someone else already mentioned, the true way to do internal routing for shifting is to KEEP the cable stops and add PTFE liner tubing on the inside. Line at least the points where the cables are touching surfaces, best case scenario it's only the bottom bracket guide. The guide itself is usually the culprit, and adding a teflon race greatly improves friction and wear in that critical bend. Plus a liner solves that open-style bottom bracket guide design that is god awful in wet conditions and non. You can probably see why. Remember, the less the amount of bowden outer surface an inner cable can touch while under tension between the endpoints, the less the amount of friction and "cable spring" effect you need to overcome when actuating the shifter. The cable stops are important because in a well designed system they reduce "cable-outer-under-tension" by up to 70-80% in case of a rear shifting system. Otherwise, when it's a matter of millimetres, a long bowden housing (IE. one piece all the way to the rear derailleur) can spring so much that your indexing stops working much quicker when worn (and also wears faster), having you constantly overshift+downshift to change gears while utilizing excessive force which in turn also wears lever and indexing components more. Since it's not expensive, when lining it's worth running a continuous piece of tubing measuring a little shorter than the length of the internal path you intend to cover ( Warning: never cut it longer and just tuck it in the frame). This way you will also have an internal routing system in place that will help you reroute in case you swap handlebars, shifters, cables or replace the existing liner that can wear out too after half a decade.

[@helicart]

another worthy insight. thanks for all your hard work.

[@helicart]

My suggestion is when you are installing a manual groupo, you want to test the shifters cables RD/FDs connected together, before you route the cables through the frame. This will give you fair indication of how good the shifting is before you bend it through the bars and frame. Most mechanical shifting is compromised due to sharp angles and friction through the bars/frame......the point is to minimize the friction. You eventually found a way to minimize friction points significantly. If you had done what I suggest prior to install, you would have realize there was nothing wrong with the shifters and RD.....and that it was cable friction compromising performance. Cheers

[@MediumHalf]

Timely vid! Have been considering upgrading to hydraulic braking, but as a fellow cheapskate, Shimano is spendy. Might have to make this a winter project! Great stuff Luke! 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@owenchase4017]

I am running the Ltwoo 2 x 7 drop bar shifters on my daily rider and I am very happy with the performance. Cost for the pair was less than $40 including shipping from Aliexpress, iirr. They work well with any Shimano 7 speed road RD, or I can pair them with a MicroNew ""7 speed" RD to get excellent index shifting on older road bikes from the 70s and 80s that came with five or six speed freewheels.

[@turborat_bikes]

Using a RISK slick lube catheter on the parts of the cables that are routed inside the frame might be helpful in lessening the friction, especially in the bottom bracket channel. That way you can keep the frame stops for water proofing.

[@whitebeardcycles]

I've had RX and GRT, Sensah SRX no issues. Braking is phenomenal on the Ltwoo especially (SRX is on a turbo) and shifting is spot on. Only Erx i haven't tried yet due to the issues you and others had.

[@Bikey_McBeardface]

Cool thing about the LT-WOO RX (12s) version (AND THE NEW 12s SENSAH team pro [see edit below]) is they also use the Shimano 11 speed ratio, so you can take the RX Shifters and pair them with 11 SPEED Shimano Mechs's to get flawless (I know because I've done it) 12 speed mostly Shimano mechanical Ultegra or DA, and now LT-Woo have updated their rim brake versions to use the same shifter internals and match the ergonomics of their hydro ones you can get pretty close to a "Top Tier" fully mechanical 12 speed rim brake groupset, and make silly faces at all your Di2 friends lugging around heavy batteries with silver dinner plates attached to their hubs. (Only joking, you will have to take my Di2 Disc from my cold dead hands.......hands that don't ache on long rides). EDIT: Just found out that SENSAH are now doing a 12x version of their Team Pro (Shimano compatible) shifters in both Hydro and Rim/cable

[@Bikey_McBeardface]

Oooops forgot the bread: 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖 And for dessert: 🍩🍩

[@richardneuman8514]

So you can run L2 RX with for example 11sp GRX rear mech and run 12 speed?

[@Bikey_McBeardface]

@@richardneuman8514 Yes,100% confirmed as that's what I'm doing on my 2X gravel bike. I also Just found out that SENSAH are now doing a 12x version of their Team Pro (Shimano compatible) shifters in both Hydro and Rim/cable which only exist to convert 11s mechs to 12, as their Empire mechs' are all SRAM ratio. (edited my original comment to include that info).

[@echtogammut]

Back in SRAM 10 speed days, "compression-less shift housing" became a thing because of a similar situation. It was never an issue with Shimano, but SRAM required full housing and/or compression-less housing in order to perfect shifts.

[@KoenMiseur]

Love the Gilet especially because you can get to your jersey pockets without taking the gilet off!

[@MacNeilR]

I'm sure you did this afterwards, drill out the rear bung and pass the cable housing through that. Full cable routing is definitely the way to go. Good stuff!

[@PeterSmithCA]

Also love a video about your "workshop" and tools and where you got them. That stand looks awesome, but I can't identify it! 🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@Ingrimmsch91]

Don’t forget so use some foam inserts around the gear cable outer to cancel the potential ratteling

[@paulwebb6699]

Before non-compressible cable outers were introduced (ca. 1990?), using full cable outers resulted in imprecise shifting and you got better shifting by only having short, discontinuous sections of housing. It feels like discontinuous housing has just hung around as a "tradition".

[@reverendremiel]

New video? Like, then watch, because it's always great content. Thanks, man!

[@TraceVelo]

Much appreciated!

[@hockysa]

@@reverendremiel same here. You know every is going to be good 👍🏻

[@douglashay174]

Loved the video Luke 🥖,i am a bike mechanic and have used the full outer trick on frames with poor designed cable routing many times 👀.. specialized hahaha,i just knew that was going to be the bonus clip time ,loved watching the thought process! Good job dude👍,if you ever wanted to be scint and live wage to wage you'd make a good bike mechanic 😂.

[@Beijingbenj]

On watching this video I purchased this group set. When it arrived it looks good and feels good,, this is where it ended. It states it is post mount brakes it is not, even with the adapters they sent. So I returned the item and since then aliexpress and choice have refused my refund. I have provided proof of return even asked them to return the item back to me. I have now not heard anything from them and I am out of pocket £140 pounds. Great channel and I don't blame you at all I blame LTWOO.

[@jayfinikin5820]

Had this groupset for about 7000km without many issues. But then the rear shifter stopped holding any cable tension. Local bike shop couldn't fix it, L-Twoo said they hadn't recognised it as a problem. Ended up going back to Shimano as had limited support here in Australia for L-Twoo. But if I was doing another cheap build I would use this groupset again, the price for the performance is worth the risk

[@Missinglink3003]

105 Break pads also fit. Had the Gravel version on my last gravel bike, and the pads were extremely noisy. So I switched to standard 105 pads and it was a dream.

[@jakeskelton8080]

Hi Luke, this idea of switching to full outer cable has been swimming around my head for a while (I was thinking about easier cleaning) so glad to see you giving it a try. If you think it's worth it I'd love to see a dedicated video on the topic. The questions I have are about how best to drill out frame cable guides (especially on metal frames) and what to do about routing under the BB - I considered 3D printing a different cable guide to accommodate the larger diameter housing. Also, as some comments have already suggested, does running thin plastic tubing (such as that in Jagwire premium kits) over all exposed cable give you all the same benefit for less weight? Love to hear your thoughts

[@victrolaman2007]

no need to drill. Search the web for Bicycle Hydraulic Brake Hose Holder Cable clamps. They work great

[@lukejames7613]

Great video have kept me interested in cycling

[@SteveKimbo]

I have a cheap Tifosi Rostra road/gravel bike and that came with Tiagra on. I replaced the chainset and derailleurs with bottom end GRX but left the Tiagra shifters on. The shifting is incredibly light and precise. You've got me wondering now if it's because the bike has 100% external cable routing and full outer cables! Maybe that's the secret! 🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@Yannerson]

Such good timing, winter bike needs an upgrade from post mount mechanic disc after a few hairy moments too many and at this price getting some extra brake callipers makes it less painful.

[@ilyaizmozherov2239]

Ride with gr9 brifters and grx812 - just perfect for literally half a price. Huge thanks to Luke for showing me ltwoo

[@michaelmechex]

This is awesome! Although I came to a harsh realisation that I might no longer be your target demographic, because my road bike is running that Dura-ace you mentioned 😅 I still love watching your videos! 🥖🥖🥖

[@TimInertiatic]

I've just put a sensah srx pro 1x11 group set on my MTB/gravel drop bar thing based on your approach. Mech looks a bit cheap but it all works really well and the quality seems pretty good.

[@yukkionna1747]

Waiting for that Cyclocomputer review 👀 I also miss this kinds of reviews from you Luke, good ol' bang for the buck bike stuffs 🥖🥖🥖🥖

[@inferno4001]

My next brakes! Thanks man!

[@afonsograde5531]

Teflon cable liner - makes miracles.

[@CurtisCycles]

Thanks for this, I think I'll get the mechanical brake version, have been watching your videos thinking between this and the Sensah one. Bonus to this one is being able to throw the 105 derailures on it if there's any sort of shifting issues after a while. Should be a nice upgrade as my 8 speed is feeling a tad dated lol

[@MrShanebizzle]

Thanks brotha!!

[@benschuttenbeld]

Thanks for the tip of routing the outer shift cable through the frame. I'm afraid I have some work to do on my wife's bike :-).

[@chrisvanbuggenum871]

You know more about bikes than i do, but the only time i built a bike it was Dura ace mechanical and i used cable outers through the whole frame.

[@JeremyDawesJezweb]

🥖🥖🥖🥖🥖 A++ vid thanks Luke and good to see how the ‘bugs’ of the early version shifters being properly resolved

[@williwacker2774]

LTWOO recently added shifters for mechanical brakes to their website. Haven't seen those on offer anywhere in the wild but might be coming soon.

[@statosphereonline2008]

Yo Luke, great video! I got the mechanical versions of these shifters for under £50 on AE and fitted them with a 105 groupset I had spare. I used the TRP HyRds as disc calipers and they work great! Look the business, too. The only thing I am not too fond of is the thumb shifter on the left for doing the trim position of the front mech. It feels far too subtle and I feel its too easy to accidently downshift the front mech rather than just trim to prevent chain rub as working up the rear cassette. I dont know whether you encountered this. I would find if I was trying to trim on even slightly bumpy UK roads, its a bit too easy to click all the way down. The 'click' is way too subtle and small. Other than this minor gripe, though, They are grand. Work great with 105, too. Very precise shifts! Have some 🥖🥖🥖🥖 for the road!

[@klausdietrich9475]

Swap out the short grub screw in the lever for a long 14mm one and have perfect reach adjustment.

[@homersadiarin9299]

STI : LTWOO R9 FD : 105 RD : 105 Casette : ZRACE Chopsuey

[@pp.8129]

8:01: I would not touch the tension. I would set the 12S with big ring, H limit screw borderline scrapping the 11S sprocket, then relax the limit screw by quarter turn. The initial offset could be enough to fix the 3rd shift without increasing the tension on the cable further. If your shifting is ok for all gears then tension is already good enough.

[@JohnHorlock-bb5zx]

I've done this to a few bikes and used sugru glue to fill the holes

[@frangonzalez6511]

Great content. Luke, could you show us how it looks under the bottom bracket after the full routing cable please? Thanks!

[@matttiggerward6147]

Full cable outer internally routed is pretty standard on mtb’s and it’s good. If you want to save weight fit something like alligator ilink instead of standard outer….

[@davidtydeman1434]

Most of us have a tight budget.- thanks for providing information for us.👏👏👏👏

[@FS-hp9oy]

Cheers mate

[@hugov392]

I lubricate gear cables too, even in full housing, and find it makes a difference esp. once things have worn a bit and the factory teflon coatings have worn off in places. (I used Rock N Roll Cable Magic and it worked well, but I'm sure anything would work).

[@stevedriscoll5406]

Cut the end off original rear cable guide/bung in the rear. And thread it over the cable outer to fill the whole in the frame.