Preparing for the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse, Pt. 3 (full practice run with basic kit)

[@solareclipsetimer]

This is Gordon Telepun, the developer of the Solar Eclipse Timer app that Nico recommends in this video. Overall, this is a great video for basic eclipse photography. Thanks, Nico, for giving all of those tips! I have imaged 5 totals and 1 annular eclipse and I just want to list a few comments. 1. Whatever filter type you use, and whatever formula you use to choose your initial shutter speed for the partial phases, that is only the starting point before you practice on the Sun. Your final shutter speed is based on what gives you a balanced exposure of the full solar disk when you practice (now). That means you have a relatively bright center area without bleaching out sunspots and preserving limb darkening. The Sun Is naturally darker on the limb and your final exposure choice should show this limb darkening. So the formulas are just a starting point. 2. The final crescent before C2 and the first one after C3 are narrow and they emit less light. So whatever shutter speed you are using for all of the other partial phase images, these two crescents (within about 5 to 6 minutes of C2 and C3) need a shutter speed 1/3 stop slower to capture more light. 3. I don't think you have to give up on trying to image diamond ring, into Baily's beads, into chromosphere before C2 and the opposite coming out of C3. You just need a fast shutter speed and take exposures with a remote shutter release as fast as you finger can push the release and as fast as your camera will buffer. Before C2 when my app says remove solar filters, take it off quickly and start taking images rapidly. Toward C3 when my app counts down to 10 seconds start taking images as fast as you can until about 15 seconds after the C3 tone and then replace your solar filter. It's too difficult in this comment to discuss the shutter speed for this phase of the eclipse. But this is doable. 4. You need a wide range of exposures of the corona. Perhaps everything from 1/1000s to 1 second if not guiding; up to 4 seconds if guiding. I have found that it is very difficult to tell the difference in corona with exposures just 1/3 stop difference. So, skip 1/3 stops and take your images at 2/3 stops to save time. 5. If not guiding the formula that Fred Espenak uses to calculate the maximum exposure time before you get Earth motion blur is 340/focal length of your system. Example: 600 mm effective focal length system; 340/600 = 0.56s exposure. I have found that you can get away with a little more, maybe 1 second at 600mm, even if not guiding. 6. If you are positioned for a long totality, over 4 minutes, the Moon will move across the Sun and be asymmetric (early and late) and cause some alignment challenges later for HDR processing. Therefore, don’t start your corona imaging immediately after C2, wait a bit and try to center the timing of corona imaging around max eclipse. The Moon will be more centered for you. More information can be found on my website in addition to the app information. My KZbin channel has all sorts of eclipse education videos.

[@StringrPress]

What do you recommend for a time-lapse of the solar eclipe. I using the dwarf 2 telescope to auto track the eclipes. Should I time-lapse or record each phase and combine in post production or just record all the way through removing the filter during totality and put them back on after totality.

[@solareclipsetimer]

@@StringrPress Hi, thanks for your question. It's hard to answer it, because I don't know exactly what you are trying to achieve and I have no experience with the Dwarf 2 Telescope. When you say "just record all the way through" you are talking about a 3-hour video and the partial phases are not that interesting to record in real-time. When you use the term "time-lapse" most people would assume that to mean taking multiple still images, maybe every 30 seconds to 60 seconds, and stitching them together later. That would be fine for the partial phases but terrible when going into the last 30 seconds before totality, during totality, and coming out of totality. Can you do a combination with the Dwarf? Do a time-lapse during the partials, and switch to video about 3 minutes before C2. Pull your filter about 20 seconds before C2 and video diamond ring, and beads, into the corona. Leave the video running for 20 seconds after C3 and then replace the filter and video the crescent for about 3 minutes. The switch back to time-lapse for the second set of partial phases. Later you can put that all together and you will have about 10 minutes of video in the middle.

[@aaronden]

plus one for this comment -- I love Nico but there is no need to forgo attempting diamond ring / bailey's beads images without automation. highly highly recommend Gordon Telepun's book, which is supremely digestible and incredibly thorough. don't be discouraged -- you can do it all!

[@StringrPress]

I think you answered my question. I want to timelapse the phases and have video of totality with the beads and Corona then finished the phases. I plan to shoot photos for the timelapse, using burst mode. I can ( interval for the photos) however the dwarf telescope can do timelapse in video mode.

[@solareclipsetimer]

@@StringrPress Oh, so the dwarf can do small video segments. You are set then. Just remember to shut off the video time lapse just before totality as I explained above. Are you aware of my app called Solar Eclipse Timer that Nico talks about in his video? You need it because it will remind you to do things. There is a call in the timing sequence at three minutes before C2 that says "second contact in three minutes start shadow band and horizon video cameras." This would be a perfect reminder for you to switch modes before C2. There is no specific reminder after C3 though, so you would have to remember to switch back to time lapse on your own

[@mrgraff]

It's like NOBODY knows about that little clock icon and criticizes the UT values!! 7:50 you've earned my subscription!

[@francislesliezabala1870]

Thank you Nico for sharing your knowledge on photographing the solar eclipse. I've been playing your videos in this series over and over again,and practising under the scorching heat of the sun. May we all have clear skies on April 8, 2024.

[@DR-fy7qy]

Another Master Class in how to capture a Solar Eclipse. Explained in simple layman's terms with just the right measured cadence in delivery. Easy to follow along for a novice like me. Thanks!

[@absorbingphotons]

Nico - even with two eclipses under my belt I found this video incredibly helpful & useful. We are so lucky to have you in this community. Thanks for everything you do!

[@marcusa3177]

one thing to sorta automate a basic rig: use the 'custom' setting capabilities of your camera. Usually, modern cameras have anywhere from 2-4 custom setting slots. Figure out what features you want to capture (e.g. one for prominances, one for beads, etc.), the settings needed for said features, then set them in the quick access slots. Then during practice, get a feel of how you cycle through those settings to figure out the most efficient way to set them (e.g. you might want to replicate C1 and C3 for non-totality settings, so you just flip through C1, C2, C3 instead of fiddling back to C1 from C2)

[@weegreenblobbie]

Please follow this advice! I write everything down on my checklist and recall my camera settings using custom buttons.

[@betodef1]

Thanks, Nico! Invaluable information here. Quick question: Would wind be an issue for the DIY solar filter? Would it make it come off? Just trying to troubleshoot ahead. Thanks again!

[@NebulaPhotos]

Thanks for the super thanks! I think as long as the paper collar on the DIY filter is fairly snug and deep, wind wouldn’t pose an issue. I’ve practiced on windy days and mine never budged.

[@betodef1]

@@NebulaPhotos Thanks again! Best of luck.

[@masiguru9982]

Rehearsals are so important. For 2017 I had everything timed. One camera mis functioned. I had allocated 15 seconds. Time was up, I moved on and was able to actually look up and watch 15 seconds of the actual eclipse. 2 minutes flew by. Having 4+ minutes will feel like a luxury. Great video. Never knew about the clock button on the app.

[@hotflashfoto]

I was waiting for this video for so long. So, so long! I'm now a Patreon member because you do so much for folks like us who love to do this kind of stuff. That, and I just had to see what that weather app was all about, too! I had a blast in 2017 at my first-ever TSE, so much so that I forgot to move my camera during totality, even using the timing app, as you can see from my avatar. LOL Now I have a tracking mount and will be out there practicing, just like you recommended.

[@Lukionest]

Thank you, Nico for the excellent video. Great info. I made a sunshade for my camera from a very thin piece of hardboard. It's 6" x 9" with a large cutout for the entire lens to fit through. It sits flush with the camera body and keeps the body cool instead of baking in the sun and gives me a large shadow zone so that I don't have to worry about accidentally getting the sun in my eyes when trying to look at the camera screen. The only downside will be if it is windy that day, the hardboard might catch the wind and interfere with my camera's aim. I hope it works for me.

[@augustwave79]

I would like to say a big thank you!! I’ve followed your guide and I was successful with my eclipse photographs yesterday. It was quite an experience and challenge! Especially for a beginner like myself. Again, thank you very much!!!

[@guidobesserer879]

Thank you so much for this video. Yor are helping me a lot. The 2024 will be the first eclipse I photograph. I'm going from Alabama to Round Rock, TX for this event.

[@Jasta315]

I'm right in the path of the eclipse in NY. I picked up a solar filter for my Canon R8. Hoping for good weather!!!

[@lovet3402]

I really do enjoy your video. It's going to be my first solar eclipse, and I am learning a lot from your video. I am in Dallas area, and I am sure I'll be ready for April 8. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[@jimtaylor5802]

Absolutely the best video series to prepare you for April 8th and beyond…had already gotten the eclipse apps but the Sundara filter was a real find for my 52mm lens…

[@Redoran222]

Wow! The value of this channel is remarkable.

[@huf67]

I used to have that same shirt.... There's a book in photo from about 35 years ago at our local county jail with me wearing it. Ahh, memories !!

[@SundarRaman-Stellar]

Hi Nico, Thanks for the Eclipse series filled with amazing tips. I appreciate the time and effort you are putting in, to share your knowledge. Question for Nico and watchers of this video: For the October 2023 Annular Eclipse, I used a handmade filter (like Nico's, in this setup) using Baader film. With ISO 100, f/8 and 1/1000, I got good exposures with Sunspots through all the phases of the annular eclipse. Since the Sun looked white, the Sunspots have good contrast. Now, I experimented with the Celestron Universal Solar Filter. With this filter, I need to use ISO 100, f/8 and 1/100 to get a similar exposure! I also notice that the Sunspots look dull due to the longer exposure. The Sun looks red/orange, which I know, I can fix in post-processing to the light-yellow color I prefer. But I prefer minimal post-processing. I am thinking of going back to the Baader film filter! Did anyone notice a similar difference in settings with using the Baader film and the Celestron Universal Filter? Thanks, and Clear Skies!

[@jimmurray1106]

PERFECT!!! Really enjoyed your latest eclipse prep video. I think you are doing a great job with simple explanations and your level of detail. I shot the 2017 eclipse from Oregon. I can vouch for everything you have said. I agree that practice is the key ingredient. Keep things SIMPLE. Test and get to know every piece of your gear until it is a habit. Since there are no "do-overs" you cannot be overly prepared. Putting a string on the solar filter is a super idea. May I please suggest keeping a fully charged spare battery in your pocket too? Some people in my group even put a fresh battery in their camera 20-30 minutes prior to C2. Best of luck on eclipse day!

[@NebulaPhotos]

Great idea! And yes, I should have mentioned it. Spare batteries for the intervalometer too (and anything else that uses batteries). I'll be sure to mention it in the next part.

[@jimmurray1106]

Yes, how often do we change those...good call!!! Keeping a charged spare camera battery in your pocket is good insurance. Changing it out prior to C2 is a judgment call. Some may argue that if everything is working don't mess with it. Just joined your Patreon. Have a pre-C2 horror story to share there. Thanks again for posting great content! 🙂 @@NebulaPhotos

[@billvinson7859]

Thanks for this video. I saw and photographed the 1979, 2017 total solar eclipses and many partial and one Annular solar eclipse. I have also photographed many lunar eclipses. After all of my experience I have much to learn. #1 is remembering to remove the solar filter to get the total eclipse. I remembered to do this at the 2017 eclipse while many in my group forgot. I used an 8 inch Celestar telescope with my Canon 60Da camera. Bracketing can help but in raw I was able to process my photos by bringing my exposures up to get more corona and bring down my exposure down to get more prominences. This year I will be using the same scope with my Canon EOS Ra. I will be able to get even more dynamic range on the eclipse. Weather permitting. I will start practicing soon. You can never know enough. ❤

[@Bills_APCh]

Hi Bill, Do you capture in RAW all the time for solar eclipse and even during partial phases? So if taking 20 frames, you will get 20*50 MB files, 1GB files per exposure during totality, making the SD card fill up quickly?

[@billvinson7859]

@@Bills_APCh That is true. The one in 2017 I did jpeg. I did raw for the annular last October and will try raw for this April. I have larger SDCards now. For my videos I will do jpeg and HD Not 4 K. That will give me more space on the card.

[@mikedavis1110]

Great information on the basic process for the eclipse photo process!! I am not in the direct path, so will only have the partial views to photograph.

[@AndrewBerube41]

I'm in the mountains of maine I am so ready for this. The tree line ain't gonna stop me! Clouds might😅

[@MarkSmith-of5fe]

Thanks a million Nico for this series. Saw the eclipse from Quebec and was successful with my photos thanks to your great advice.

[@Bruce.94538]

So looking forward to this one. Getting another tracker. Starting to rehearse now. Seen the August 2017 eclipse in OR with friends (recommended). One bit of advice I am glad I heard, if you have camera problems, no more than 15 seconds to try and fix. Which did happen to me, automation helped so I got some photos. You have to visually enjoy also. Good luck to all.

[@jacobf.8992]

Fantastic video series, I ended up getting shots of partiality and totality that I'm really happy with by following some of these tutorial steps!

[@lidarman2]

Every time I do an eclipse, I get nervous about all the things I gotta get right on the day even though I have done this multiple times before.

[@jimmurray1106]

Ditto!!! I haven't found a remedy. If you do, please share! 😊

[@croenan]

Panic attacks for the entire week prior. I feel ya!

[@tobiasyoder]

It’s the best kind of anxiety

[@CN_Astrophotography]

I'm doing my very first photo attempt on this one.. and my second ever totality I will see... I am very nervous!

[@justinmeader]

Tomorrow is my first one and I am a ball of nerves because I got almost no time to dry run.

[@M31glow]

Nico great post. Another thing that you can do is use your camera-tethered software (all the major bands have it free) to take interval exposures, and you can remotely change exposures on the fly.

[@KYFriedHam]

Thank you so much for this series! I was able to capture some great photos using your tips... even as a very novice photographer with the basic kit!

[@TalGivoly]

Nico, thanks for this series! Helps me prepare further for the upcoming eclipse. I too will be in Texas... Last time I traveled with my daughter to 2017 eclipse, and it was fantastic and while photos weren't the goal, I got some nice stuff (not world class, but still good). This time, coming with a bunch of gear so that I can capture more of it. I'll have a couple of rigs, though not something too heavy as I'm flying in. So AZ Gti in EQ mode as primary + Seestar 50 (toy for timelapse, probably), probably a wide field, and maybe hand-held as well.. Last time my best shots were just a 400mm lens with a DSLR hand held. Considering whether to an AT66ED2 would be better than the camera lens. Probably camera lens gives more flexibility. I'll test a bit solar with both to decide... In any case, of the two Mac software packages - which should I use, because I don't think you can use both simulatenaously as each of them controls the camera. So if I can choose either, which of them would be better? I'm controlling Canon R7. Any benefit in using any of the astro cameras (I have ASI294mc Pro, ASI178mc, ASI715mc, and more). Basically which should I use for main gear: CaptureEclipse or Solar Eclipse Maestro? Also, would it make sense to use two different rigs for the phases with filters vs. the phases without it? Also - when, exactly, is the filter removed to capture Baily's Beads and when, exactly, should that filter be placed back - for the photographs, of course. Thanks!

[@cesarinrm7148]

Excellent recommendations, I have precisely the same basic equipment, camera and objective lens that you show in this video, enough to obtain good captures of the eclipse and make compositions of the course of the total eclipse. Greetings from Mexico from where I will witness my first total solar eclipse live.

[@lidarman2]

People aren't kidding about doing an end-to-end practice run. I did my first successful one yesterday after fiddling with things for 5 days. One thing to keep in mind of if using Eclipse Orchestrator is the if you disconnect the camera and reconnect it, you might have to start the program again to see the camera. I also fiddled with is so much I think I screwed up the serial port in memory and had to reboot the computer the fix it. I also somehow had in software the exposure compensation at +5 stops and didn't know it. Be sure to compare the shutter times in the software to the website that gives exposure times and make sure they are similar. Check and triple check.

[@cowgirljane3316]

I live west of the D/FW area. It will be about 98% totally here. Thanks soooo much for the info. I have a Nikon D7100 and bought a Celestron Universal Solar Filter. Praying for clear skies. 😂

[@lidarman2]

Seems it would be worth driving down just south of Dallas suburbs (I will be in Killeen) for the full glory. You will not see the magnificent corona with anything less than 100%. If you have not seen one before, then you need to. It is life changing.

[@starmanxvi]

I live in STL and we also have 98% here, I'm planning on going 2 hours south to get totality. 98% may seem close, but for TSE's anything that isnt 100 is 0 since you don't get to feel the temp change and see the sky get dark. I'd say its more than worth driving to 100% if you can, you wont regret it.

[@jimmurray1106]

I've seen four partial solar eclipses and one total. I think most people here would agree that skipping seeing totality would be similar to having tickets to the Super Bowl and watching the game from the parking lot. Look on the map Nico suggests and make your plans now.🙂

[@robb7342]

Thanks Nico, another great video for someone like myself who has not done a solar eclipse. Bonus that I happen to live right in the path too.

[@JethroXP]

FYI - I'll be on the south side of Dallas, and despite being pretty flat, the elevation is 180 meters.

[@tikidaron]

I agree the recap is nice rather than a full video, but im still gonna have to go back and watch the others. Im pretty dense and it takes me a few listens.

[@indymustang1969]

Just saw a report that Indiana is forecasted cloudless and most of Texas just “fair”. Sure hope it’s right. If you need a host in Indy, open invite!

[@danawestfall371]

Thank you for this. I have made a couple of filters and tested on the sun. I live in Texas just outside the center line, so I am lucky.

[@garywheeler2055]

Incredible amount of good information provided. Your videos are sooooo helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🍻🇨🇦

[@blackeyedplau7422]

Thank you very much for this video! I learned a lot about my camera and lenses and how I should use them for the next solar eclipse. I appreciate the time you took to prepare this video. 🙂 Greetings from Mexico

[@NatarajanGanesan]

My Second eclipse. Have a STEM happening on the campus. Thanks for sharing this video. Just hoping for clear skies.

[@carolsantulis1990]

Thanks Niko. I will be looking forward to your workflow for the Seestar smart telescope.

[@Beastopher189]

This is excellent information! This will be my first eclipse and I’ll actually be very near Waco TX, driving down from WI for this! Can’t wait to see it, maybe we’ll bump into each other :)

[@DeveshPande]

Hi Nico, a good way to reduce reflections is to cut out a hole in a cardboard of the size of your lens and put it directly over the lens

[@Bills_APCh]

Devesh, do you mean like a blocker cardboard halfway down the lens shaft?

[@DeveshPande]

@@Bills_APCh Yes! Too bad I can't attach images of my setup here.

[@granitfog]

One pro photographer showed his solar filter. He made it with two layers of foam board. The two layers were attached at the bottom with tape that acted like a hinge. The lens layer had a lense mount from a paper tube, the outer layer had the filter mylar taped to it. During partial he would swing the filter layer up and tape with painter's tape, and during totality he would undo the top painter's tape and allow the filter layer to hang down on that hinge. Regarding the color of the sun, I think simply changing the whie balance to get rid of blue will result in the classic yellow sun. Thanks for the videa and link.

[@EvoAdventures]

Just bought the glasses and filter film you mentioned in your last video! I plan to drive down to southern IL for it from Wisconsin. This video was great!

[@alan.macrae]

Such great information Nico, thank you!

[@erichumbert810]

Fantastic video. Valuable information presented wonderfully. Many thanks!

[@bigaxerob4201]

Your series has been so helpful and informative! Does anyone know if there is there any automated software for Sony Alpha cameras via Windows?

[@MrGenyaAvacado]

10:48 Fisheye creates a curve you can use software ti flatten the curve.

[@DaveKingMusic]

I'm planning on doing a wide shot with the eclipse crossing the frame over a landmark. My first thought was to figure out the alignment of the sun in relation to the landmark and lock off the shot and take a series of photos during the duration of the eclipse. However, after watching your video I'm wondering if it would be better to take closer shots and then compose the photo in Photoshop. Thoughts? Thanks!

[@polmontwojtek]

Hi Nico, thanks for the great video, I really liked it. I have a question, suggestion... can we use ASIAIR to auto photo the eclipse ?. Could you please touch on that subject in the one of your next videos ? thank you.

[@AlanHowellphotovideo]

I second the ASIAir video! That would be very helpful!

[@johns3473]

Love our video's, do we need any other filter besides the Dyi solar filter?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Nope. You just need a solar filter for the partial phases, and NO filter for totality (assuming you are in the path of totality - xjubier.free.fr/en/site_pages/solar_eclipses/TSE_2024_GoogleMapFull.html)

[@Oath_Keeper1979]

Great job. Please can you do a video about how to calibrate a Sky-Watcher polar finder reticle?

[@jsmith0924]

Very informative! Thanks so much! 😃

[@loocrepus]

Thanks Nico for the advice in these video series.. It was very helpful, though I was not able to capture all aspects of tht eclipse, I was able to captrue the diamond ring @ C2. Thanks..

[@lilljav]

If only I had found this this earlier! It was amazing!

[@jimwilliams4170]

Great presentation.

[@keithhanssen7413]

Good luck, Nico!

[@aaronsmicrobes8992]

This is exactly what I need

[@wangum17]

Hi Nico!! Are you going to do a video on a practice run with the 2nd kit aka using a star tracker? Your videos are great and helpful!

[@NebulaPhotos]

I have one that compliments this video about adding the star tracker coming out very soon (in the next couple days)

[@wangum17]

Awesome!! Thanks!!

[@NebulaPhotos]

Here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJevYaOepa6Gd68

[@wangum17]

I watched just after you released it. I’ll be using the GTI mount with a Nikon Coolpix P900 for the eclipse. Awesome video!!

[@wangum17]

What dovetail and hardware would you recommend on the gti mount for a camera?

[@SueFerreira75]

Thank you for your excellent videos and explanations - very grateful.

[@MountainFisher]

I have the Lunt 50mm with a B600 blocking filter and pressure tuner. I like to view the Sun with a highly polished Orthoscopic eyepiece. I live at 5200 feet in the Southern New Mexico Desert. Best conditions for Solar is right after rain that clears out dust and haze. Usually the wind is cooperative too after Summer storms and morning is of course the best time before heat starts the temp variations. During the Winter it can be good seeing all day, but usually decent. Spring & Autumn are like the two seasons, variable. I video the Sun, but not usually, though I will April 8th of course using a 102 triplet and Solar film and the Lunt 50mm Hydrogen alpha Solar scope. The 102mm will have a DSLR on it. Both will be on my iOptron AZ Pro. I will take 20 second exposures with the 102 every minute until totality, then 20 on 20 off. The Lunt I will do the same except I'll be taking 30 second video with 5 sec stops through the whole of totality and de-rotate later. I will only use the Lunt for 30 minutes before and after totality, but the 102mm will cover the whole thing. I practiced this several times and used Sharpcap. My AZ Pro uses GPS and will align itself to the brightest object in the sky. It will ask me if I want to point at the Sun. I'll be using 7x35mm binoculars to watch while checking my scopes. Good thing I made reservations in Texas 2 months ago because they're gouging from Eagle Pass on the border to Austin, TX. $99 a night room is jumping to $598 a night for the 7th to 9th of April. I would guess it's going to be like that all along the path of totality.

[@doyoulookup]

Thank ypou for the great information.

[@jeffMinnesota952]

Thank you Nico for videos and advice. Love the detail you go into. I myself am not too interested in shooting pictures of the sun eclipse itself (my wife is) and I am sure there will be millions of great photos posted of that image. What I want to do is 1. Photograph and view the oncoming shadow from my drone 2. Shoot a selfie with myself and wife in the foreground and the totality behind us. How dark is it? What do you think would produce the best image? I am thinking some fill light might be nice- What do you think?

[@NebulaPhotos]

If you are at an eclipse party with others, I'd avoid the fill light as some people want the full experience without any artificial lights. If it's just you and your wife, it might be a good idea. It doesn't get 'night time' dark, more like the middle of blue hour (after the sun has 'set', but before true darkness). I think if you put your camera on an 'auto' setting it would still be light enough to pick an appropriate exposure, and if your flash has ettl, I'd suggest just turning that on for the fill.

[@jwdeepsky]

I looked at the diamond ring without glasses. Amazing

[@guylawyer705]

You mentioned checking focus before C1, C2 and C3. For argument's sake let's say the camera is set to shoot at f/8, with a 300mm lens on a crop sensor camera. The hyperfocal distance here would be a bit short of 2000 feet. (It would be about 1500' on a 35 mm full frame camera.) Seems like focusing on the sun just once would suffice or would the focus shift that much? Of course, it wouldn't hurt to check the focus anyway, but I just wondering if the focus really change that much. Thanks!! Good luck to everybody!

[@JoeInMemphis]

I strongly advise actually going out and doing a dry run also! I attempted that yesterday for the second time, using equipment that I used for the 2017 eclipse, and the declination motor on my Bresser mount literally burned up! That would’ve been disastrous on the day of the eclipse in an already stressful situation! I have a sky watcher star adventurer GTI on its way with two day shipping, it has an 11 pound payload, which coincidentally is exactly what a 500 F4 canon lens and 7D body weighs, wish me luck…

[@thomassorensen4334]

Great video! Could you give a little more detail on setting up auto bracketing on a DSLR? My camera (Sony A6000) has a range of +/- 3 EV. My partial phase (at ISO 100) has an exposure time of 1/2500 with 15.6 EV whereas the inner corona has an exposure of 1/80 with 10.6 EV. Would my camera's continuous bracketing be able to work?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Ah, sorry that wasn't clear. The goal isn't to bracket such that you use the same settings for partial phase (with filter) and totality (no filter), it is just to get more features of the corona during totality. So I suggest auto-bracketing 'off' during the partial phase with the shutter speed set at 1/2500s. Then 10 minutes before C2, focus one last time, turn on auto bracketing and change the shutter speed to 1/80s. I would suggest setting the auto bracketing to take +2 and -2 EV. I think that will result in 3 shots for each shutter actuation. One at 1/320s, one at 1/80s, and one at 1/20s. Test it out and let me know how it works. I will elaborate on this in the next part. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Nico

[@thomassorensen4334]

@@NebulaPhotos Thank you for the clarification! I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes

[@acneattack7676]

Keep the videos coming!

[@corinlewis3073]

Hey Nico, I am flying over from London U.K to San Antonio Texas to view and hopefully image my first total solar eclipse in April Im.going to practice, im. Taking my Starwatcher GTI and a Canon 600D camera ✈️

[@danielcarene6323]

Great Videos, On the basic set up with an intervalometer and bracketing should the AWB be set to daylight when shooting the corona?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Yes, daylight white balance is best

[@Debby-hy7fo]

As an amateur photographer with my first eclipse, I have to say THANK YOU (!) first before I ask my question. FANTASTIC series. Now my question: You spend a lot of time on the problem of sun glare on the camera's back screen while focusing. I have a mirrorless camera. Once I put the DIY filter made with your directions (thank you for that, too!) on my lens, can't I just look through my EVF to focus? Isn't glare only a problem with looking at the back of the camera?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Yes! I’m demoing in the video with a DSLR and the optical viewfinder is terrible for this, but an electronic viewfinder with digital zoom is ideal.

[@Debby-hy7fo]

@@NebulaPhotos Yay! Thanks so much!

[@StringrPress]

I recommend Eagles Pass or Uvalde, TX

[@ripplesandleaves]

Minor correction. You weren't showing Maine when you showed totality in the northeast. You were showing northern New Brunswick, Canada. No biggie though. And thank you so much for the excellent videos and sharing your expertise!

[@mattemond777]

At about 27:50 in the video you talk about practicing and seeing how long it takes for the sun to go from the edge to the center of your frame. I'm practicing now and the sun doesn't travel in a nice horizontal line across my frame. How do you pre-determine how to angle your camera so the sun moves nice and horizontal like that?

[@frank5angels308]

Nico great video series ...i really needed this. Im in a situation where I damaged my DSLR and its not usable BUT I have my DEEP SKY ZWO's like ASI533MC OSC and my smaller guide/planetary cameras...ASI29o mini and an ASIAIR. Can the eclipse be images captured using my astro gear rather then a dslr? I do have a tracker.

[@NebulaPhotos]

I'm sure it can, but it's outside my expertise. I'd suggest practicing now with the ASIAir and a solar filter to find the best partial eclipse exposure, and then that would be a good starting value for inner corona for totality (filter off) you can bracket (doubling .1s, .2s, .4s, etc.) the exposure up from there.

[@boilerdam]

Super informative, thanks! Quick questions: 1) I can't find Pts 1 & 2. Were they only for Patreon supporters? 2) What is the best way to stack images with an untracked base kit setup? I'd imagine with constant re-composing, the resulting sequence of shots would be the Sun bouncing all over the place.

[@NebulaPhotos]

1) All parts (including future parts are here): kzbin.info/aero/PLrzbdmripj1fiZT1_XvxASYDQmEUH_J_a 2) Typically, you don't need to stack shots for an eclipse. You can just edit them as single shots. There is a technique for making an HDR image from several corona shots and for that you can line them up manually using the edge of the moon (black circle) and the prominences as the reference points. I'll do a processing video later where I'll show this in Photoshop

[@boilerdam]

@@NebulaPhotosawesome, thanks again! I have a few hundred shots of the Venus transit from back in 2012 that I want to stack for a Timelapse and a composite to show the path of Venus. Still unedited to this day because back then, I use the basic setup and aligning the frames manually will take a billion years 😂

[@tylerhuttosmith]

Question for you and the community: I’ll be shooting a wedding during the eclipse and was curious if anyone had any tips for shooting a portrait before totality and during. I’ll have a Fuji aps-c xpro 3, xt5, & xt2 with my wife as a second shooter using one of the cameras mentioned. Lenses available are 23mmf/2, 56mm f1.2 100-400mm 4.5-5.6. Also have a few vintage lenses if need be. I plan on bringing a fluid head tripod, a tripod with 3 way head, and a monopod just in case for before and after. I have a continuous light and an old speedotron pack with modifiers and what not if additional lighting is needed, but I’d like to avoid distracting everyone. Assuming portraits would likely be composites, but just wondering if anyone has shot a wedding during an eclipse and whether or not it would even be possible expose for the eclipse and couple at the same time without blowing out the eclipse? Of course will bracket quite a bit. Thanks in advance

[@leonardrock6891]

I've recently subscribed to your site for information on photographing the upcoming 2024 solar eclipse. I enjoyed your videos that are easy to understand for a newby like me. My wife and I will be going to Burington VT for the eclipse. As soon as I receive the rest of the equipment that I've ordered I'll be doing some pratice runs. I have a UV filter on my lens now, should I remove it for eclipse photos or is it ok to leave it on? Thanks for sharing your knowledge it's been very helpful.

[@NebulaPhotos]

I'd probably take if off for the eclipse. Unlikely, but it may cause a weird reflection.

[@polarisswitchback2683]

Live in presque isle maine im pretty curious on how this is gonna go! Aprils generally super cloudy i hope we get to see it!

[@RodrigoPolo]

Looking forward for the automatic kit video.

[@kevinashley478]

15:44 Hey Nico, so I am brand new to the concept of bracketing. I have a Canon T3i, how do i know how many stops I can set? If i can do 3 stops above and below, does that mean that each shot will result in 7 photos? How do i know how one stop correlates to the shutter speed for the different aspects of the eclipse?

[@jojogivens7475]

Thanks for the video 😃

[@xxGmon3yxx]

100% totally from my back yard in TX! My goal is to have a dual setup by then.

[@shiukam3443]

Thanks for a very informative video. I do not have a solar filter but is interested to photograph the total eclipse. How do I focus? I can pick the most distant object like the cloud and extend the focus a little further knowing that sun is essentially infinity. Would that be acceptable?

[@txastro4453]

We're not that flat in TX, depending where you are. Kerrville is in the Hill Country at about 499m elevation.

[@petertrahan9785]

One thing you didn't mention in this video is that without a tracker you should also be aware of your minimum shutter speed needed before you get motion blur. If you are going to be bracketing 3 or more stops, you could easily push the shutter speed past this limit.

[@sorggalder]

Nico, thank you so much for these series of videos on how to photograph the solar eclipse. They've been the most helpful. As this will be my first solar eclipse, I plan to use my Stellarvue 80mm Triplet and Canon 7D mk ii. I'm confused about the bracketing. On the eclipse calculator, will the bracketing (one stop over and under exposed) capture the various (lower, up, mid) Coronas while keeping the same shutter speed? Or do I have to change the shutter speed for the various parts, as the eclipse calculator says? Thank you for your time and response. I hope my question makes sense.

[@NebulaPhotos]

You need to change the shutter speed, but most cameras have ‘auto bracketing’ in the menu to change the shutter speed for you. You just need to set it up and turn in on in the menu, and then each shutter press will take 3 (or more) photos.

[@sorggalder]

Nico, thank you so much for the reply. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but what I'm understanding is, at the start of totality (C2), I take 3 or more photos with bracketing at ISO 100, f8, and 1/50s for inner Corona (

[@NebulaPhotos]

@@sorggalderYes, if your goal is to capture all aspects of the corona, you may have to do something like that. What I was suggesting in this video was just to pick one aspect of the corona (inner corona for example), and auto-bracket around that shutter speed, but in that case you miss out of on outer corona. Another option is just to manually bracket by turning the wheel to change shutter speed -depending on how difficult your camera menus are, this actually may be faster/easier. I'd practice with both options to see what works best for you and your camera. Many people take their corona shots manually in the first half of totality and then enjoy it visually for the second half. In terms of doing it as a series automatically, that is where scripting and automation software on a tethered laptop comes in. I will show a couple options for that in my next video in the series, but the first step is to see if your camera is supported by one of the available options here: eclipse.aas.org/resources/apps-software#automate (under the heading 'camera control for automated eclipse imaging')

[@sorggalder]

Nico, ok, thank you for the clarification. This explanation set me straight on what I need to do. Because this will be my first total solar eclipse and photographing it, I will keep it basic and simple. I plan to photograph through my 80mm Triplet Stellarvue with my Canon 7D mk ii and my canon 100-400mm with the Canon R7 mirrorless. Thank you so much for the help. You put out great videos, appreciate all the helpful videos and the time you put into them.

[@tommiranda3158]

Thank you so much for doing this series. I am also going to TX to photograph the eclipse and this series has been fantastic. Quick question for you. I've been practicing and have discovered that my tripod is not up to the task. What tripod do you recommend for a basic setup using a mirrorless camera with a 600mm lens?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Lots of good choices. For a budget option, I like a used Manfrotto/Bogen Tripod 3001 off eBay - usually $50-100. Sometimes they come with a decent head, but if not, you can get it just for the legs, and use a Sirui L-20S Pan/Tilt Head or something similarly beefy.

[@tommiranda3158]

@@NebulaPhotos Thank you.

[@marioptera]

Thanks for sharing the info, much appreciated! :) Quick question: do you happen to know if a SolarQuest would be able to track the Sun during totality phase? Just got myself one and that thing is truly nice. I plan to use it with my APS-C camera + a Sigma 150-600 (with a Baader solar filter for the partial phases).

[@NebulaPhotos]

Sorry, never used one, so not sure

[@cosmoscarl4332]

The part of Texas where I'll be isn't flat. It varies from 150 to 450 meters above sea level. Hill country west of Austin or San Antonio.

[@kevinvernon3600]

Nico, I am planning on dragging out some of the old film cameras for April 8th, in addition to my DSLR, Large Binoculars & 8 inch Telescope, and I am wondering if you, or any of the knowledge base here would have a film type/brand/speed recommendation. I have a 35mm, and a medium format 120 camera, with some old monstrous lenses, that aren't compatible with my Digital. Most of this stuff hasn't been out of the closet in 15 years or so, and it's getting thoroughly checked, but I am at a bit of a loss to pick film. B&W? Color Print? Color Slide? Fast, slow? Help me, Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope. ;)

[@netsurfr1]

Wow. Nice video series! It seems these instructions are meant for zooming in to get good up-close shots of the sun/eclipse but what if I want to do a video of the what the eclipse looks like from the ground (without zooming in) so I can capture the people/horizon/sky. Would a sun filter still be needed in that scenario? I'm assuming using the solar filter would basically make everything except the sun look pitch black so trying to learn on how to go about shooting a video of the event.

[@NebulaPhotos]

For very wide angle like that, no solar filter is needed. And it is a fun perspective. For the 2017 eclipse, I used an inexpensive 360 cam to capture video, but any camera capable of capturing wide angle video (GoPro, Smartphone, etc.) will work well.

[@netsurfr1]

@@NebulaPhotos Great to know. Thanks!

[@menguardingtheirownwallets6791]

Thanks for sharing the link to Xavier Jubier's Interactive Google Map page, that helped me a lot to figure out when the eclipse will be starting and ending in my area.

[@parduke]

Imma cooking brisket north west of Waco for this... come visit

[@DR-fy7qy]

Around 11:00 min time stamp mark of this video you demonstrate how to use the Shutter Speed Calculator for Solar Eclipse. For some reason when I fill in the values for Partial phase filter (ND 5), alt., elev., ISO and aperture, the Suggested Shutter Speed, etc, do not populate in the Safari browser page. It does work in Chrome. BTW what does 1/100000th represent?

[@NebulaPhotos]

1/100,000 is the amount of light being passed typically if you said ND8 that would a 1/8th reduction in light. For a solar filter it’s 1/100,000th reduction

[@DR-fy7qy]

Thanks.@@NebulaPhotos

[@Rabastan]

Thank you, your guide is super helpful for the April eclipse. One question. What if the lens I have is fixed and has no electronics to control the aperture speed? My camera always shows F/0. Should I take the aperture speed as the F number of my lens?

[@NebulaPhotos]

Correct

[@kirill_gusev]

Ant suggestion for total focal length on full frame camera? I have 70-300 and 70-300 and teleconverters 1.4x and 2x. What combo would provide better result? Thank you all!

[@CAPHOTO1961]

Actually Austin texas is in the hill country so not flat at all. The location of the mill where you are having the meeting has some significant elevation changes.

[@NebulaPhotos]

Gotcha. Should have said the kind of elevation changes in Texas don't seem to actually change exposure timing, so fine to leave on 0.

[@CAPHOTO1961]

@@NebulaPhotos good to know!

[@ryanpipkin]

Does it make sense to record a video of totality rather than snap stills? I was thinking hit record (±2min 2nd & 3rd contact) and then remove the filter (±10sec 2nd & 3rd contact). Will my Sony A7II at 300mm zoom be able to capture Diamond Ring and Bailey’s Beads if I record 1080P at 60fps? I should be able to extract single frames from the video. That way, I enjoy totality only touching my setup twice for filter off/on. Would this work? Or should I reconsider and focus on getting the still photography instead?

[@NebulaPhotos]

It might make sense. The big question I have with that method is what to set ISO and shutter speed at for the totality events. If you can control your camera with an app maybe you could leave it on the same settings you had for the partial phase for baileys beads and then change the exposure settings for the corona? I think it’s unlikely you will be able to capture beads, diamond ring and corona with the video method. But beads + corona may be possible with one settings change right after C2. Edit: the reason I mention an app is so you don’t have to physically touch the camera introducing shake to the video

[@RoadtrippinwithTakacs]

I think you might want to buy a cheap camera and let it run on video mode while using your Sony to shoot photos. We did that for the annular eclipse last fall, and it was a good decision. 💪