Preparing the Face of a Plane Iron | Hand Plane Foundations

[@txm11-t4u]

This by far the best, most complete resource on hand planes-not just this video, the complete series.

[@davidsgerson]

You are a very good teacher, succinct, no needless chatter, and you focus on teaching one specific thing - this makes you an outlier on KZbin...nonetheless, keep up the good work. You were meant to share knowledge, it is clear.

[@BRFineWoodworking]

Thank you!

[@ibrhemahmed170]

Good and thanks

[@David-fv7zg]

Excellent demo, once again. Curios though, you don't see a need for lubricant? Obviously, you don't need it, it has worked well for you. Any thoughts on this? Thanks again for doing this.

[@BRFineWoodworking]

You don’t need it when using sandpaper. Oil/water on stones isn’t used as a lubricant (that’s a common misconception). It’s used to fill the pores of the stones to keep them from clogging with metal filings. If stones were used dry they’d clog and glaze and stop cutting. Sandpaper does not have pores so it doesn’t clog. So no oil/water is needed to float away metal particles. You just brush them away occasionally.

[@robertlawson7754]

Using cheap sandpaper on metal is false economy. I go for the harder abrasives, such as the red stuff that you find on sanding discs. I think it's garnet but correct me if I'm wrong. This lasts a whole lot longer. For the finer stuff, I use wet amns dry, which seems to be carborundum based,

[@bobweiram6321]

Your site is completely broken. It keeps requests for a login on the Hand Plane foundations course. Mysteriously, it allowed me to access the Sawing Foundations course.

[@whittysworkshop982]

It really vexes me when I find an old plane iron has a high spot in the middle..... it takes so much more work to get it right :/ I use a similar method, but with lapping films instead of sandpaper. The films are 125microns thick (1/8th of a mm, or about 0.005inch) and its aluminium oxide..... not sure how this would compare to sandpaper in regards of durability, but they seem to last a long time for me.... they are much more expensive tho. Im not suggesting that a beginner go out and buy the films, jus sharing the way I do it :) The way you are teaching is good for beginners to get their foot in the door, and it doesnt cost much to get started either... a fully fledged sharpening kit costs a lot more than what people realize. The tools simply do not work if they aint sharp..... so its important to learn the sharpening process even before learning the handling of the tools. When I started with hand tools it took me about 6 months of sharpening to actually understand what PROPER sharp was and how it felt, id keep finding a new level of sharpness..... "sticky" is the best word to describe it I reckon; nearly like the edge wants to cling to your skin when you touch it. Ive got edged tools down, but I feel I have plenty to learn still about filing saws. Keep it up Sir...... Youre a good teacher Bob :)

[@BRFineWoodworking]

Thank you!