Preparing Your Track for Running Trains | Cleaning Your Model Railroad Track

[@gavco11]

This works like a dream works wonderful

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for watching

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Good presentation. I've been using the CRC products for years; 2-26 and CO- Contact Cleaner. They always worked good on electrical components at work so I started using them on my track.

[@HumancityJunction]

Tome, thanks for watching the video and commenting.

[@LaytonJunction]

hi great video i use a c m x track cleaner on my layout here in the u k only have a small layout so doesn't take much to keep it clean also use a Peco track rubber well stay safe and well have a great weekend all the best from the uk 😁👍👍👍👍

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks Layton

[@williambryant5946]

The channel Elite 194 had a video a few months ago saying he uses a product called Oxguard. On the same level as the oxidation prevention product in the small twist top container that you showed. He said a tiny bit went along way and that he only cleans his rails once or twice a year. He didn't say how much he ran his trains though. He swares by the stuff. Great video and great information. I'd never thought about using electrical contact cleaner to clean the rails but it makes perfect sense. Stay well. 👍

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for commenting

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Now, I have gone to CRC Cleaner green can with protectorant . It leaves a small protective coating on rails that will help conductivity. And, also No OX. All non polar....

[@HumancityJunction]

I need to find some of the green can.

[@Castlebridge-00]

You have put a solution to my problem very well. I did see our Australian friends video and between the 2 of you, I am convinced on CRC 2-26 and will be sourcing it to purchase. I have subscribed. Barry.Devon.UK

[@HumancityJunction]

Glad it helped

[@IHVRRNotBad]

Good information video. Thanks for sharing..Uncle Wilmer

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for checking it out Wilmer

[@BoxcarJerry]

Great video about a much misunderstood process . After watching the other video everything he spoke about made total sense to my none electrical mind . Yet in the past week I watched another video on the subject suggesting the opposite . When it comes down to it , I think if modelers are getting what they perceive are good results with the process they use , they will continue to do it . Fishplates video about it will shad some light on the subject and maybe change some thinking . Again excellent job on the video . Take care and be well .

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks a lot Jerry. Yes, I think we need to start referring to it as preparing the track, not cleaning the track.

[@barnfulloftrains]

I use CRC and spray it on a paper towel, cleans really good and quick, as said in another post a channel called Elite 194 swears he uses ox guard and only cleans his track about once a year, it's made for aluminum wiring so it don't oxidize and lose voltage, I own a rv park and used it on the wiring and have not ever had any voltage drops in the 12 years that I have been open. Gary

[@HumancityJunction]

Gary, when using paper towels I found that they get ripped up between track sections hence why I moved to rags or the delicate wipe. Thanks for commenting nad I look forward to more of your video.

[@Cbtrainnut]

Thank you for an excellent video! I have been seeing some discussions about this topic over the years but really never tried it. You can bet I do now! Happy New Year!

[@HumancityJunction]

Glad it was helpful! Happy New Year!

[@duanesforkandspoonrr10]

Nice information....thank you....need to get some 2-26.....

[@HumancityJunction]

Duane, thanks for watching.

[@dacuzzz]

hi Humanity...that was a well produced video..Greg (Fishplate Films) visited me about 5 years ago.. & suggested to me everything you mentioned in this vid...on occasion i do use bright boy copy like the yellow one you show in this video.. CRC 2-26 & i have the CMX track cleaning car..with 99% alcohol..i think this should be called "track maintenance" thx for sharing.. vinny

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for watching and your very thoughtful reply.

[@georgiasunbelt]

Everything you said is in line with my buddy who’s an Electrical Engr has told me....been using CRC since I started my layout. Great video on a controversial subject.

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks a lot.

[@seanspennywisemiserrr]

Thank you for the great comparisons. We use alot of CRC products at work and they dont disappoint.

[@HumancityJunction]

Thank you!

[@MMRails]

I wonder if they sell that CRC stuff in Canada. I haven’t cleaned my track yet but I’m sure I’ll have to soon. Good info. Thanks for sharing.

[@HumancityJunction]

I checked amazon.ca and they have some CRC products but I did not see the 2-26. Might need to check with a local hardware store.

[@terryflynn8830]

I have been using Inox for over 30 years. I get all the benifits claimed in the Fishplate viedo and your viedo using CRC 2 26. Both are great.

[@HumancityJunction]

I have been using the CRC 2-26 and then adding the No-ox-ID as necessarily. It has been a good combination for me. I recently started trying out graphite on the rails. I am not sure what I think of that yet.

[@RailserveJohn]

Great information. Good clean track is a must and anyway to make the process more efficient is great. Thanks bud.

[@HumancityJunction]

John, thanks for watching and commenting. Much appreciated.

[@richardclowes6123]

Hi, I've used Inox on my layout and it is good for conductivity and smoother running of smaller locos. But I discovered to my horror, that it totally wipes out traction tyres on locos which were bought to take larges rakes of carriages up my incline . . . sadly no more !! I have to now change the traction tyre wheel sets for non-traction tyres which leaves them with less pulling power than with tyres. People definitely need to be aware of this problem.

[@HumancityJunction]

Yes, this is unfortunately 100% correct, a lot of this conductivity enhancers are corrosive to traction tires. One thing I have recently being experimenting with good success is just using graphite. I got some powdered graphite from the pinewood derby crowd (they use it on their axles) and it has been working really well.

[@otistooley1280]

I use CRC ON MY LAYOUT. AND MY Polar express pick up. Only here to clean my track in most of about every 3 months when I change my layout to a Different scenery

[@HumancityJunction]

Otis, thanks for stopping by

[@nateshon3eastbroadtoprailr448]

I'ved used CRC 2-26 to clean my rails but also to clean track pickups, motor brushes and commutators and it worked great. Thinking of using ACH ACT-600 or Track Magic after cleaning for conditioning the rails.

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for watching and commenting Nate.

[@nateshon3eastbroadtoprailr448]

@@HumancityJunction You're welcome!

[@DruSteel69]

Very helpful tips, my friend. Thanks for sharing. - Drew

[@HumancityJunction]

Drew, thanks for watching.

[@FlyingCrow]

Great topic. transmission fluid does improve contact, but it does not clean and because it is oily, it attracts dirt, so I would vote no on that. The CRC does seem to be good stuff and I am going to try it on my next layout.

[@HumancityJunction]

Mr. Crow, thanks for watching and commenting. I am not a fan of the transmission fluid, just like I would never use WD-40. But I saw it mentioned a few times so though I would bring it up.

[@SouthBrooklynRR]

I have been using the Inox product and find that it has worked well for me. The also use for stubborn build up dirt such as after doing scenery work or track repair wet/dry 4000 paper sprayed with a little of the Inox. works great.

[@HumancityJunction]

I have sprayed contact cleaner on a bright boy before. Big Bill, see my response to Dwight about sanding. At 4000 grit you are leaving microscopic particles that could make their way into the motors on your engines. First choice is non-abrasive, but I agree that sometimes you need a more aggressive solution.

[@SouthBrooklynRR]

@@HumancityJunction Also I should have stated that I take a 2inch stainless steel washer mounted on a block of wood and run it over the rail, got that from Ralph Renzzetti The Mud Father

[@bjec607]

I been in electronic repair and computers for years and have used a product from Caig, manufacture of electronic cleaners. I know nothing more but feel like throwing the name in the pot. It has alwayus preformed well for cleaning control potentiometers and edge connectors.

[@HumancityJunction]

I will check it out, thanks for bringing it up.

[@LeslieGilpinRailways]

The only issue I noted on the fishplate films video which you don't mention is that CRC 226 and traction tyres don't go together. On my n scale collection, Broadway Limited Imports locos use traction tyres, for both diesel and steam locos. For now I'll stick to infrequent IPA (then adry rag) and, surprisingly, just running a dry rag or track cleaning car again with the pad dry.

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks for the information regarding traction tires, that is definitely good to note. I have 7 N scale BLI diesel locomotives, 3 different types (the majority are heritage), and all of them are Paragon 3. I thought I new what traction tires were, but looking at all of my locos, I do not see what I expected traction tires to look like. I am definitely going to need to do more research on my BLI locos. Where did you find out about 2-26 and traction tires not going together? I wonder if it would be better to use NO-OX-ID if you run locos with traction tires.

[@LeslieGilpinRailways]

@@HumancityJunction Greg / fishplate films mentioned it in his most recent video recommending crc2-26. Apparently the stuff soaks into traction tyres and makes them ineffective.

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

Brightboy and then a clean lint free rag with rubbing alcohol

[@HumancityJunction]

What are your thoughts on using either 2-26, NO-OX-ID or INOX?

[@CONTAINERMAN68]

@@HumancityJunction Never have tried any other way to clean(prepare) the tracks.

[@rmyers7]

I'm involved in a fair number of public shows, and there are some additional track issues caused by that. You may be faced with modules the were in storage for a long time, from various builders and sources, public venues may not have the best air quality, and visitors talk over, eat near, and touch the tracks. Through long experience I've come up with some go tos. Abrasive. Any abrasive is a compromise. You have to balance the mechanical cleaning action against the fact that it leaves tiny scratches on the railhead that just attract more crud. But sometimes you have to do it. Paint, glue, ballast, various crud gets on the track. I use the Cratex block. It's much finer than bright boys and similar products. I think Walthers no longer sells this, but it is a commonly available industrial product. I believe the grade is extra fine - dark gray (grits are color coded). A trick another modeler showed me is that the surface of the block will build up a patina of crud and trac metal. Clean this with water and liquid dish detergent. Non-solvent cleaners. Recently there have been several no solvent track cleaning solutions available. I prefer these to _any_ solvent based ones -- Goo Gone, 2-26, IPA, whatever. They don't bring up paint, glue, whatever. Woodland Scenics sells one. I use ACT-6006 from Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants. This is also sold thorough Bachmann, so it's easily available. Clean with The Woodland Scenics Tidy Track white pads or a non-lint cloth. Conductivity and corrosion resistance. I've found that on the second day of a two day show, track condition seems to have deteriorated overnight. little very light oil helps protect the track. Wahl clipper oil is the traditional fix. Any very light oil probably will do. I use XL products ultra light. Put one _tiny_ drop on the rail every eight feet or so. Let your trains distribute it. Edit: I forgot one other product I use. Also for conductivity and corrosion resistance, as an alternative to light oil. XL Products 'Garden Railway Track Conditioner'. Developed for outdoor use but fine indoors too. Put a few drops on a WS white pad or lint free cloth and wipe the rails with this _after_ cleaning. Keep it light and don't do often -- the folks at XL say twice a year. Shameless plug -- XL/Phoenix are nice guys with good product and show at most train shows (if we ever have any again).

[@HumancityJunction]

Bob, thanks for the recommendations. -Heath

[@HumancityJunction]

I found the ACT-6006 on eBay. I am going to pick some up to try. I really want one of those brass cleaning cars. The same seller also has one, but I cannot justify the price right not. -Heath

[@rmyers7]

@@HumancityJunction by 'brass cleaning cars' do you mean the Centerline ones? They're great, but fiercely expensive. My club uses them on the NTrak layout.Two in tamdem -- the first with Goo-Gone, the second with a dry roller to pick up the crud that the Goo-Gone has loosened.

[@HumancityJunction]

@@rmyers7 I had not seen the centerline ones, and looking at the pictures, I do not understand how they work. I was referring to the CMX Clean Machine Tank Car.

[@thegrowler-blackwoodngauge]

Saw the video from fish plate - interesting. Personally I use Woodland scenics tidy track and can't say I've ever had any issues with it. Cheers Euan

[@HumancityJunction]

The point that I believe we are trying to make is that cleaning the track is only the first step, that you also need to prep the track by putting on something like 2-26 or INOX. Some people stop after the cleaning part and do not do the prep part. Do you know what is in the liquid that comes with the tidy track?

[@thegrowler-blackwoodngauge]

@@HumancityJunction sorry I don't know what the liquid actually is in tidy track - that said I've never used the liquid cleaner supplied. The track rubber seems to work. Could the humidity of where a layout us housed play a part in the effectiveness of the different cleaners ?

[@gavco11]

Crc is a fantastic product for all things on modle railway an a great track cleaner

[@HumancityJunction]

Totally agree

[@harveywaitchison2062]

After seeing your presentation, I went to Amazon and looked at CRC products. Their 2-26 was described as a lubricant and that worries me. Their QD Electronic Cleaner, however, looks like it may do the trick on tracks without collecting dust/dirt. Just saying.

[@HumancityJunction]

The key part is the protectant, which supposedly helps with the electrical connectivity. There is a video by Ron’s Trains and Things talking about the QD Contact Cleaner that is supposedly better than the 2-26, but I am not sure that it makes a noticeable difference. I am currently of the mindset that running trains is the best track cleaner.

[@rogerball6265]

I use No-Ox and have good results. On track and loco wheels

[@HumancityJunction]

Hello Roger, I have been using it a lot more recently. Seems to provide better and longer results. -Heath

[@StBlazeyModelWorld]

Great vid, very informative and interesting

[@HumancityJunction]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@sparky107107]

track cleaning is just that. dust and humidity get on the rails over time, and if left for long periods of time,(week) then should be cleaned with the 89% to 99$ alcohol. when it comes to running the trains, every day a bit of the CRC on a rag and spread out on the rail heads works best. just don't do any inclines that you have, and wheel slippage with stay at a min

[@HumancityJunction]

Thanks Sparky. Currently my setup is all on the same level, but it would be interesting to do some testing on your Helix on just how much effect the CRC would have on slippage.

[@TimberSurf]

Just to put this emotive subject in perspective, 193 subs and 53 comments so far! I am in total agreement, my research has born similar results. For those in the UK, take your Peco track rubber and throw it in the bin! It is way to coarse! I think I need to do a vidbit on the subject, as you have missed one more element, the "lubricants" that offer anti oxidisation also help reduce sparking, an element little understood that actually causes most of the "dirt" on the track!

[@HumancityJunction]

There was some information available that the black that gets on the tracks is not oxidation, but is actually arching. And that it is the lubricants that reduce the arching, which reduces the black, which reduces the “dirt” on the track.Maybe one day no one will use the track rubbers any more.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

I still prefer to "polish" the rails first with a chrome washer, then is CRC for ongoing maintenance....thanks

[@HumancityJunction]

A few people have mentioned the washer, I need to check that out.

[@AberystwythStation]

Hi Human[c]ity Junction. A very descriptive video, interesting to see others opinions too 👍. Have you thought about doing a video covering the trains being run/tested using the different products? Stay safe mate, kind regards GWR

[@HumancityJunction]

Thought about it, but trying to find a scientific way to do it and not just be anecdotal.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

If you search the internet for "polishing track" you will find what Ralph and I from MRL have done. Although time consuming, it makes sense. First take very very fine sandpaper to remove large scratches, then, Taking a polished steel washer and buffing and polishing the rails to remove very fine scratches and then putting a non sticky protectorate on. A little wheel slip is negligible for me at best. (real railroads have some too) The scratches fill up with junk, and polishing the rail eliminates those scratches. IT is more work, but worth it. It also takes away the arching that electricity does when wheels run on minute scratches. My only issue is I am in a dusty room and light cleaning is necessary, so putting on CRC over that dust is not too good, so wiping down track first with something not containing any water, (alcohol contains water) but just any sort of dust remover helps.

[@HumancityJunction]

Polishing the rails after fine sanding is a great idea. I do have the QD Contact Cleaner to "clean" the rails before applying the 2-26. I believe the CC is better than IPA for this step.

[@HumancityJunction]

Dwight, I have been thinking about this more today and from what I know today, I could not recommend any type of abrasives, event a very fine sandpaper, for regular track maintenance. And "sanding" is going to leave behind very small pieces of metal. These pieces of metal will be attracted to the locomotives, especially the motors. Yes, being as that abrasives were used as track cleaners for years and everyone has old locomotives, there is probably little long term effect. But if I have a cleaning/treating solution that does not leave microscopic metal particles behind, I would choose that as my first option. I would be really interested in hearing your further thoughts on this.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

Of course, one would clean off the sanding particles before polishing with the washer. The process was called Polishing and Burnishing nickel silver rail....@@HumancityJunction

[@aaronmontena6745]

Mineral Spirits !!!

[@HumancityJunction]

I have heard some people use them for cleaning, but do you then use anything on the track to help improve conductivity?

[@drsmith1988]

No ox ID after the mineral spirits. Also, after treating with No ox ID, remove excess with a soft cloth.

[@jimtedesco]

I wish someone would review "Track Magic", they claim it is superior to other cleaning methods.

[@HumancityJunction]

I have a feeling that if it was really true, that the reviews would be out there.

[@chrsmcwtrs]

CRC 2-26

[@HumancityJunction]

It has definitely been my go to.

[@HotRodRodney25]

I disgree

[@HumancityJunction]

Rodney, About which aspect of the video? -Heath