Bridgeport Refurbishment and Sandblaster Modification.

[@joell439]

Mark, no apologies are necessary..... spending your hard earned money is making you happy AND it’s sharing the wealth with others who use it to support their families. Seems like a win-win to me. And your children can sell the equipment when it’s time to split the inheritance 😄. Thanks for all the tips, including passing on the clever solenoid valve operation. All the best...... Joel

[@Preso58]

Joe, my son used to encourage me to buy quality tools when he was a teenager. I asked him why he cared what sort of tools I bought and he told me that they'd all be his when I died! Seriously though, I would be very pleased if he is able to take my tools and use them. Regards, Mark

[@mikevars8979]

So glad the solenoid valve worked! Love that you included the mess at the end because of the door being open. We all learn from others mistakes as much as from their success. It has inspired me to add an interrupt (normaly open) switch on the door in series with the solenoid. Door open will keep from blasting. Keep up the great work Mark I love your videos!

[@Preso58]

Now why didn't I think about the interrupt switch? Great idea that. Thanks for some more inspiration. Regards, Mark

[@sparksfireandbalingwire8467]

I made the same mistake you talked about on my Bridgeport. I started using a needle scaler and took it down to bare casting, I never thought it would be that rough!! Fortunately I only did the ram. I'm in a hurry so I will deal with it later when I have time. The rest of the machine I sanded like you are and filling the gouges. That's a good idea with the solenoid valve on the blast cabinet. I have the exact same one from Harbor Freight here in the states. Great video as usual.

[@Preso58]

Yes, some castings are pretty ragged and they can take a lot of filling. On my Colchester I didn't bother with auto body filler which I find can be very hard to sand back. The sealer that I used was a spray on product from Valspar and it builds very quickly and is easy to sand back but it's also oil and chemical resistant. Regards, Mark

[@stevejay8123]

Hi Mark. Your doing a great job. Once you finish you will know things will be "right" with the mill, and it will give you years of faithful service. 👍

[@jonnafry]

Worth the effort Preso ... that little spark of satisfaction each time you see the fruits of your labours all mounts up to happy life.

[@stanwooddave9758]

Hello Mark, that "Evercoat" product I used as an Autobody (I believe you call them Panel-Beaters) guy. Top Notch product. I realized you mentioned that you have purchased the paint already, as someone who did Automotive Refinishing (25 yr's plus) & 5 yr's Airplane ( Boeing 747's & 767's, Wing's & Body Sections of both model of airplane's / aircraft) Refinishing, I'd recommend what is called a 2 - part Epoxy Paint. Dries to very strong OVEN-BAKED porcelain like finish. EXTREMELY durable in a machine shop environment. My 2nd choice would be a Polyurethane, which is a more flexible (as in aircraft) paint. How flexible, a 747 I was told, the circumference of the plane expands and contracts approx 1 inch (2.54 cm) when pressurized vs unpressurized. Both hold their freshly painted appearance over time (5 yr's, no problem.) You do what your gonna do, just wanted to give you a chance to make an informed decision. Would also recommend a 2-part primer / surfacer. To help you achieve a Professional appearance, I would go with a light gray or the yellowish 2-part primer / surfacer. What's the difference between primer and primer-surfacer. The difference is primer by itself is very thin material, and is only intended to help in aiding adhesion, vs primer-surfacer has solid's in it to aid in filling very small imperfections. The reason for the light-gray / yellowish primer-surfacer, is after you apply the primer-surfacer, wait for it to dry, then use a very contrasting color say black to VERY, VERY VERY, lite{ly} cover the primer. How Lite you ask? Pretend the spray-can / raddle-can of paint your using, cost $10,000.00 (Ten Thousands U.S. Dollar's) per ounce (29.573 mL.) You want enough paint that you can see it, but at the same time, you want to still see all of the primer-surfacer. Put another way, you just want to MIST some contrasting color on the object to be painted. As soon as you put the can away, you should be able to start sanding. When you start to sand, and if their is some kind of imperfection, the contrasting color will highlight the problem area. Now go for it. No sealer required if you go the 2-part primer-surfacer, those who may disagree with the idea of not using a sealer, don't understand the chemical bond (read that as NON-Penetrating (the finish being applied) capabilities) created using the 2-part primer-surfacer.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for your very detailed response but I am smiling as I read it because it's exactly what I have done. Some years ago when i painted my Colchester lathe for the second time I went to a specialist paint supplier and told them that I wanted the best paint system that money could buy and they sold me Valspar two pack epoxy as a primer and as a separate sealer/surfacer. The primer is dark grey and the sealer is light grey. This worked perfectly on the lathe and I still have half the paint left over for the mill. I even used a guide coat as you described. The only difference this time is that the top coat will be an industrial enamel whereas on the lathe I used a two pack urethane finish. I compromised on the topcoat because as you have said, its the adhesion to the bare metal that's important. I am working on a follow up video at present which shows the paint layers and the subsequent repair of the minor imperfections and I hope, the finished painted surface. I did have one setback though. The knee had so much oil soaked into the original filler that it was bleeding through the sealer. It was never going to give the top coat a fighting chance so it all came off today. So, I had to eat my words about not needing to remove the original finish. Surprisingly though, it's only the knee casting that has been affected in this way. I did get to tour the Boeing plant when I was in Seattle a few years ago. Absolutely mind blowing! Regards, Mark

[@stanwooddave9758]

@@Preso58 I'd check with the paint supplier, and see if you can purchase a "HARDENER" (a.k.a., accelerator / accelerant ) for the industrial enamel. I would think today, (year of 2020,) most paint's would allow the end user, this option. Good luck mate. She be right, as my ex autobody partner (from Australia use to say.)

[@TomMakeHere]

A green Bridgeport to represent our envy! Great work on both the machine and the sandblaster

[@one4stevo]

She will look like a new mill soon. I agree Green a great colour. I rebuilt a hercus 9 lathe over 5 years ago i was going to paint it Gray but a friend talked me out of it, so glad he did. i used White Knight Rust Guard, bunning colour matched it to original green. i disassembled every nut and bold wire wheeled everything to metal, Brushed painted all the parts no primer just 2 coats of paint 5 years later the paint held up surprising well some chips and scratches to be expected. I have no brush marks it still looks like its been sprayed even today. Thanks for showing the progress Very nice work

[@Preso58]

I'm glad you got a good result. I must say I hate painting anything with a brush. I find it difficult to get into corners and tight spots without leaving drips and runs. I did watch a video by Yuchol at Woods Creek Workshop where he has painted a Bridgeport clone with a foam roller and he seems to have been able to get a really good finish. I still can't see how you can get around some of the smaller parts that way though. Regards, Mark

[@wyohman00]

As someone else with similar OCD, I appreciate the attention to detail! Thanks Preso for the great videos.

[@glennstasse5698]

I’m really impressed by how much thought and effort goes into your finishing. I never would have guessed you’d need 3 different coatings plus the filler. I admire how fastidious you are. Inspiring (or shaming)! Wonderful work.

[@Preso58]

Glenn, I found out the hard way that it pays to buy a proper paint system. I restored a Ferguson TEA20 tractor and I used a cheap single pack etch primer and painted straight over it with an industrial enamel. The paint flaked off the aluminium cast parts within a month or so. Where the paint is still intact the rust has come back to the surface and the entire tractor now needs to be stripped and refinished. It really is a false economy to buy cheap paints or to cut corners. I had some good advice from a paint supplier when we were building our house. He said that the primer protects the wood, the undercoat protects the primer and the top coat protects the undercoat. Regards, Mark

[@tcngrr41]

Hi Mark, Regarding some of the hurdles you mentioned in getting 3ph to the shop, you might look at horizontal boring as an option. Here in the US it's an increasingly popular way to run lines underground with minimal disturbance to the surrounding property. No problem going under roadways and drives (providing your soil isn't too rocky). Might allow you to get under your driveways at least, and if trenching is still cheaper, then trench the rest. Sounds like you have a workable solution already, but thought I would throw it out there as I don't recall hearing you mention it as a consideration.

[@Preso58]

Unfortunately the single phase cable runs up the centre of the road for nearly 25 metres so it's not just a case of crossing the road from one side to the other. We would also have to dig up a concrete path and a large concrete slab outside the shop. I have resigned myself to having to put up with what we have. 😭 Regards, Mark

[@avibank]

Knew it would happen. Thanks for sharing.

[@EDesigns_FL]

There some very good reasons why people strip paint to bare metal that you may not have considered. You briefly covered the issue of paint compatibility, but even your sealer has to be compatible with what's underneath. What typically happens is that the existing paint absorbs solvents from the new paint which will cause the bond between the coats to fail. And even bigger issue is the total thickness of the paint. You already have two different paint layers and are likely at the maximum recommended thickness (~10 mil). Paint needs to be able to stretch and contract with the base metal part, and this elasticity is compromised as the film thickness increases. It's the existing paint that's the weak link in your finish. Three paint jobs is one to many.

[@Preso58]

Good point. Adhesion is the key with any paint process. I actually painted the first coat of etch primer today and tomorrow I will check the adhesion. If it's holding up I will add the sealer which is like a high build spray putty. The Valspar paint that I am using was recommended to me specifically because it is very tenacious. As well as using it on my lathe I also used it on a drill press belt guard that had existing paint and filler on it and it is still as good as the day I sprayed it. I guess the difference is that I don't know what sort of paint was on the Bridgeport since I didn't put it there. I guess it's a cost benefit thing. If I was younger and had more patience I would probably strip it completely. I guess the thing I was getting at was stripping back to bare castings and then painting with a brush, and no primer is unlikely to give a very good finish. Regards, Mark

[@CraigsWorkshop]

The mill's going great Mark. Good to see the updates. I can't wait to see some green on it! Nice mods to the blast cab. I shall have to check out the earlier videos relating to that. Cheers, Craig

[@Preso58]

Craig, hopefully it will start going back together next week. Both cars are being excluded from the garage until I can get the knee and table back on! Regards, Mark

[@whatupg1]

Thankyou Mark, always fantastic to watch your videos. Entertaining and I always learn something. Keep up the great work and I look forward to the next video and seeing the Bridgeport come alive👍🙂

[@MyDailyUpload]

Good ideas on the HF blast cabinet. I have been meaning to do several things to mine. First is going to be getting it on a base with casters and then sealing all the seams. Then I’ll address upgrading the gun and air delivery.

[@Preso58]

I added a shelf and castors almost as soon as I got mine. That's a worthwhile upgrade. Regards, Preso

[@_bodgie]

No illness Mark keep going the way you're going, the mill will look bloody good when you're finished.

[@stanstevens3783]

Mark you won’t regret doing it right from the start. Good luck with the renovation

[@seanrodden6151]

It's your workshop, not a mausoleum; leave grey for battleships! Let the colours run free!

[@petera1033]

Came across your site byaccident and so glad I did - wonderful content from a 'local' thanks for your efforts sop much content I'm interested in. btw- spot on re your comments on your painting strategy. Regards Pete

[@Preso58]

Welcome aboard! Thanks for stopping by. Regards, Preso

[@DukeReynolds]

I mentioned this in a previous comment but H&W machine repair has a really great manual for Bridgeport 2j machines. When you do go into the head, there are some disassembly/reassembly aspects and procedures that are not intuitive. They can cause expensive damage if overlooked (ask me how I know 🙄). Things like "hidden" set screws that I'm pretty sure someone added just out of spite! Really enjoying this series so far. Thanks

[@stanstevens3783]

Thanks for explaining your thought processes, very helpful

[@stephenmurray2335]

So the BP is getting a facelift! None of your regular viewers are surprised Mark, and it'll be interesting to see how it progresses. Your videos have become a favourite to rank alongside Steve Summers, who is perhaps the American you. If you haven't checked him out I would certainly recommend his channel.

[@Preso58]

Stephen, I have watched Steve Summers and his work on the Bridgeport. Interestingly, it seems like he hadn't watched the H&W videos showing how to remove the X axis screw. He unwound it all the way from the nuts. I was able to get mine out in a few seconds after I undid the two retaining screws. Regards, Mark

[@mattlapain]

Very Nice Job Mark!!!

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video Mark. As they say, If a job is worth doing. Always an interesting vid. Keep safe and stay well.

[@lv_woodturner3899]

A lot of work on the mill preparation. Going to look good afterwards though. I love the idea on the sandblast cabinet. That E stop switch without latch is so easy to use. Good idea to have the solenoid valve. I can appreciate how much pressure drop you had in the foot switch. Three phase power is also expensive in the US. My machinist friend with a Bridgeport used to be a lineman for the utility company. As we drive around to flea markets he explains the US overhead power lines we see. My road has a number of houses, but there is only single phase power going down the road. Three phase power is a few miles away. If someone needed 3 phase, they would be paying to get this run from the closest place some miles away. Very expensive. Then the cost / kWH would also be expensive. I know the issues from overhead power lines. They are all over in my area. This results in many power outages due to tree limbs touching the lines. Some are quick blips, some are longer outages. Dave.

[@SeanBZA]

Yes a single cable pair is easy to run on bare wire, and here most rural distribution is still SWER for long runs on the farm, as the farmer has to pay for the poles and the cable, and buy the transformer, so running only 1 wire is a considerable saving. Thus you see that Alsthom makes a single phase motor up to 22kW, which draws 63A running, so you can have a massive irrigation pump on a farm, with the 11kV 30kVA transformer sitting on a pole next to it, and a large ground mat for return, with the single feeder running off on poles to the nearest rural supply line.

[@Preso58]

I must say, I know nothing about how power distribution systems work. It's something we just take for granted. I often look up at the poles and try to figure it out but it's like looking at a map through a straw. You have to see the whole network for it to make sense. Regards, Mark

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Well, now I kinda wanna paint my little lathe now lol. That unit is gonna be a beauty. 😊

[@OldMachinery]

when I did the paint on my Powermatic mill the original filler seemed to have been attacked by the oil on the machine. everywhere there was filler it was cracked and flaking out. since the castings were very smooth I decided to remove it entirely and just paint the bare castings. as far as longevity goes since there aren't any filler layers left on the machine it will be a simple job to do touch ups. I think you're absolutely right to take everything down and rebuild it that way you know what's in there.

[@metaltipsandtricks6747]

Great advice on how to paint a machine.

[@Preso58]

Sadly though, it all got a bit derailed in the last few days. I had a bit of a setback with the knee on the mill. It turns out the original filler is soaked in oil and it has bled through the newly applied two pack epoxy sealer that I used. I had to strip it all off today and will start again from bare cast iron. I am working on a new video in which I eat a bit of humble pie! Interestingly though, the other parts of the mill are fine. It's just the knee that's affected. Regards, Mark

[@opendstudio7141]

The Presling way is - value added by aesthetics. I would do the same thing myself. AND fill the 2 little drill dings - check and re-flake the table just for the look. 👍🏼😊

[@Preso58]

I am still considering whether I should have the table surface ground..... Regards, Mark

[@opendstudio7141]

@@Preso58 For the fresh clean look or for a mechanical reason?

[@pgs8597]

G’day Presso, you just can’t help yourself, you just have to get it looking right. Doing a good job, keep it up. Cheers Peter

[@tinker5349]

Hi, it will be a nice machine when rebuilt. Look forward to the next episode

[@garyskowbo3564]

Hi Mark, the mill will be looking sharp when you get finished. Well it might be a permanent condition at least it’s not terminal.🤣 Thanks for the ramblings always enjoy them, and the humour.

[@OldePhart]

"some peanut"... Man , that made me giggle way too much. I'm gonna add that phrase to my language starting now!

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Exactly where I thought you would be! CAUTION! That rabbit hole is deep!

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

Hi Mark, the traditional fillers used on cast Iron were linseed oil chalk base with drying agent to make them go off quicker. This was rather like glaziers putty. Cheers, Matthew

[@Preso58]

Matthew, I recall reading that on a forum at one time. I wish I knew what the hardener or drying agent was. I replaced all the glass in our windows at home here with linseed oil putty and that takes years to harden. The filler that is on the mill is still somewhat soft and I was worried that it might have lead in it. I wore a mask but you end up with it on your skin, in your hair, it gets everywhere. Regards, Mark

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

@@Preso58 It is possible that it has white lead oxide in it, it was used in fillers for house painting in France. I think that by the time your bridge port was made, the should have got rid of the lead content!A "siccative" as used to dry oil paints ground in linseed oil would accelerate the putty going off! Fresh coriander is a natural chelation for heavy metals!

[@Vickwick58]

My favorite videos are the ones that include everything, warts and all. When I'm in my shop working probably 15 percent of what I do is recovering from something I either did wrong the first time or I found a better way to do it after I was finished. Most of the people on KZbin seem to be absolutely correct first time every time, and I just don't believe that's possible. To give you an example, I would probably have used my shop vac to clean up the spilled blasting media and then spent half an hour sifting it out of the vac.

[@Preso58]

Victor, I agree. I think that there are two classes of video on YT. There are the ones made by "experts". These people do one thing and do it well. They have refined their technique by constant practice and empirical refinement. They will then demonstrate a well rehearsed process and make it look easy. Then there are the people who present a narrative which records an experiment or a prototyping process. In that case you can expect failures and setbacks. When I started this YT thing it was always going to be a narrative. I just wanted some sort of record of my hobbies. I never expected it to become what it is now. Regards, Mark

[@opendstudio7141]

That made me chuckle. 😊

[@KarlBunker]

I love the importance you place on the esthetics of your tools. I'd do the same myself only I'm a lot lazier than you.

[@garagemonkeysan]

Nice video! Great detail and useful information. : ) Just knew you'd refurb after the knee was off. Your "illness" is the reason why we follow you. : ) There's little learning in watching something half-baked. : ) Mahalo for sharing!

[@dale9896]

Great job yet again mate. well done.

[@jimpritz4169]

Wise decision Mark even though I knew you were destined to do this. You will be much happier in the long run with a good looking Bridgeport. You have waited a long time to find this machine so why not fix it up so it's more enjoyable to work with.

[@NSTRAPPERHUNTER]

It's going to look nice when you're done.

[@jonknight9048]

Awesome thanks for the solenoid tip

[@PatFarrellKTM]

In the US, three phase power triggers "demand fee" which is a monthly minimum fee. This can be very expensive for a casual hobby shop.

[@Preso58]

Pat, we get stung that way with gas rental for oxygen, acetylene and MIG gas too. You have to pay a rental fee whether you use it or not. Unfortunately, when we were preparing to build our house we were on a really tight budget and we didn't foresee the need to put in the extra wires for a three phase supply to the house. All the cables are underground now and they also lie under a sealed road. Our house is about 80 metres from the supply pole too so unless someone invents bluetooth for household power I am going to be stuck with a RPC. Regards, Mark

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

Fell into the rabbit hole....... looking good ! The only thing I would have done differently would have been to thoroughly degreased before sanding... if it’s not perfectly clean you are just grinding the grease and oils into the substrate.. hopefully it wont come back to haunt you... joe

[@Preso58]

I did take the parts I could move easily outside and wash them down with a strong detergent and then follow up with a pressure washer but getting at the column meant just using rags and solvent. I know what you mean about spreading the contaminants. Even solvents just dilute it rather than actually removing it. Regards, Mark

[@RaptorMachineToolCo]

@@Preso58 we do the best we can do !!! its not easy wrestling with a 2500lb machine especially when you arent set up for it ! Looking forward to seeing the finished result ! Joe

[@AtticusDraco]

I gotta go the rest of the day we 'BE' 'Bridgeport Envy' Thanx for sharing your thought process on this Good stuff "Arbor Fright" :)

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Looks like you are doing a good job with the paintwork . What is the colour code for the green ? If you are ever over Perth way i have 4 lathes , 3 mill's & a T & C grinder that could do with a paint job ! Cheers .

[@Preso58]

Max, I just took one of the parts down to my paint supplier and he colour matched it for me. I don't actually know what the code is. My paint supplier now keeps all the formulas on their computer system so if you ever need any more the can mix it up accurately. And mate, your on your own with your machines! I've breathed enough paint dust in the last week or so! 😁 Regards, Mark

[@woodworker4063]

Enjoyed watching 👍Sorry I missed you today catch up soon.

[@Preso58]

No worries. Did you check in the ute? Regards, Mark

[@woodworker4063]

All good 👍

[@trentsworkshop2960]

You can buy that bolt in the center of the down speed wheel on the front face of the BP on EBay. They are about 3 for $10. You can not just buy one. Thats how they get you.

[@Preso58]

I looked into those but they all specified that the thread was M4 which isn't compatible with the matching thread on the spindle. (I think it's 5/32") I did buy three of the ball trip levers and they turned up today. I made a replacement myself but I figured it would be worth getting a few spares. I was surprised to find that they were actually well made! Regards, Mark

[@mrrberger]

AGREE, people "restoring" vices do the same cheapout job. take back top raw metal then one or two coats of enamel, even on the bearing surfaces.

[@DCT_Aaron_Engineering]

It’s looking really good Mark. If only you were still working, as you could’ve got some work placement students to do all the sanding and lifting for you. Oh, how did your wife take it when you told her that you were coming to Melbourne to do my restoration for me 🤣

[@Preso58]

When I retired I never looked back! I do still miss teaching but the politics and the constant promotion of incompetent staff got to me in the end. I occasionally go back up to the school to do some repairs and maintenance and it's sad to see the way the budgets are constantly cut and the facilities are gradually being run down. I have been trying to find "alternative activities" for my wife when and if we get to Melbourne. Regards, Mark

[@bob_mllr]

Hi Mark. Looking good! Can you tell me more about the 2k paint you are using. And what respirator? I’m leaning towards 2k for my Schaublin lathe job but I used the Rustguard spray can “1 pack epoxy” on the Klopp which was has turned out nice and lasted well on other jobs I’ve done. Cheers.

[@Preso58]

Bob, I am just finishing up on another video in which I talk about the paint. I used Valspar products for the primer and sealer. They are not cheap but they give excellent adhesion. The respirator I use is not recommended for two pack paints containing isocyanates. My understanding is that there are no filters that will remove the isocyanate from the air. The only solution is to wear a hood with a remote air supply. However.... and this is where the OHS will beg to differ, I might only paint with 2K paints once or twice a year and only for an hour or so. I do wear the respirator which does filter out the suspended paint particles and some of the organic solvents. I work in a well ventilated shop or outdoors with the breeze blowing across the work. So my exposure is minimal compared with say, a panel beater or a production finisher/painter. I am willing to take the risk in order to get a durable finish. I will almost certainly cop some flak for saying that out loud but there are plenty of panel beaters out there who use the stuff every day with inadequate protection too. I tend to be hypercritical of people who paint metal with a rattle can over bare metal but I also accept that sometimes that might be an acceptable solution when the item is to be used indoors and the finish is not on show. For a machine tool though I think that it needs a little more preparation and good quality paint. If the priming and sealing is done well, a rattle can finish will probably work. Regards, Mark

[@ashleyward427]

Have you considered routing three phase wire through your shop from the phase convertor. Then there's no need to roll the converter around. Thank you for sharing your work, always look forward to the next installment.

[@Preso58]

Ashley, that could be a project for "down the track". If I ever get myself a little surface grinder it would be useful. Regards, Mark

[@SeanBZA]

Nice upgrade, though if possible use a 3/4in solenoid valve, as that has 1/2in passages. With the power cable look into digging next to the existing cable, and using a Ditch Witch to put a 110mm pipe under the concrete near it instead of cutting, might be easier. 90m run says probably a 16mm cable there, if you were cheaping out, as strictly for 60A you would need 25mm for the length, so yes you have an issue, but if you really need 3 phase run the new cable as 16mm SWA cable, which is rated for direct burial, and you can, provided you run both together, get by ( code permitting) with only having 2 new cores and PE in the new cable, saving half the cost of copper, and running them together all the way back, and then terminate into the distribution board. Triples the power available, though you probably will want to upgrade the board at the same time to balance the load, and redo the stove connection to a 3 phase one ( most stove units come with the ability to be run off a 3 phase plus neutral, but normally have a set of 2 jumpers in the incoming feed so all work off a single phase) to reduce phase loading. If not then yes put new steel wire armour cable in trench, and before closing, and after connecting up, recover the old cable, as it will be worth a bit as scrap copper, even more so if you strip off the sheathing

[@Preso58]

Believe me, I have lain awake at night running through all the options. It's one of those cost/benefit things. I just wish I had bitten the bullet right from the start. As it turned out we were under budget on the house build, not by much, but I could have probably put that towards a more capable power connection. Hindsight eh? Regards, Mark

[@trevorburke9476]

Any suggestions on getting those old machinery tags looking good like the one on the lathe? I'm currently restoring my Grandpas old Herbert No Ov milling machine so your videos couldn't have come at a better time. Cheers from Melbourne

[@Preso58]

Trevor, I had several machine tags on my Colchester lathe that were severely damaged and I could not bring myself to just put them back after I finished painting and restoring the rest of the lathe. I generally use the original to make new artwork on a vector graphics programme like Inkscape or Corel Draw. I then laser print an acid proof mask using something like Press'nPeel which is then heat set onto new brass plates. I then etch in Ferric Chloride and powder coat the background. You can also use paint. I did a video some time ago showing the process. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eaSznYNql7OtjtE If you think that you would rather have someone else make them for you try Tom Utley. He's in the USA but he does make custom plates for restoration projects and he may even have one for your machine already made. [e-mail] Regards, Mark

[@larrymac8538]

OMG Kermit the mill ! LOL Nice work Preso, will you add adjustable feet and possibly a riser block too?

[@Preso58]

Larry, those risers are hard to come by here. I checked on Ebay and they are easy to get in the USA but the shipping costs are prohibitive. The adjustable feet sound good though. Regards, Mark

[@leop9021]

We have the same problem getting 3 phase power.

[@MrZX1206]

"I'm not going to take the top half apart." Next episode the top half comes apart.

[@Preso58]

I was itching to put a spanner on it today! Regards, Mark

[@opendstudio7141]

​@@Preso58 J-Heads. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGaZiZuMppaSmNk

[@opendstudio7141]

He makes it look easy, but I have seen seasoned mechanics struggle for months with a manual, putting these back together, 5-10 times.

[@blfstk1]

Good Show Mate...as always. THIGHBUMPMANIPULATION. You can copyright that if you want to. I know all about the OCD on a machine. Of course I have a lazy streak that normally keeps that in line somewhat. I am happy for you that you have a B'port to refurb. I'm still at only level 2 jealousy/envy. Boy, do I know something about that "short of money" syndrome. I have been creatively financing my whole life. Working the money until it quit because of fatigue. Short of money is the overall condition of man. Gonna be a beautiful machine when you finish. Looking forward to more vids. Be well.

[@Preso58]

A friend of my father's used to have a card in his wallet which read "whenever I fell the urge to work, I lie down until the urge passes". Regards, Mark

[@blfstk1]

@@Preso58 That's my motto. Has been for years. WORK is a 4 letter word not to be used in mixed company. Mixed company means anybody else present. I don't think you are applying my motto. Looks like an awful lot of dirty, grungy work has already been put in on the B'port. Probably more to come. I have every faith that that machine will be one excellent piece of work when you get finished. I envy you the task. Don't tell my lazy streak. Might cause confusion.

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Perfect!!!!

[@NorthernChev]

With a hand-mounted trigger you can easily meter a small or large amount of air to finesse delicate areas while blasting. A solenoid valve is either full on or full off. Absolutely no way to easily meter your media.

[@Preso58]

That's true but you can always regulate the air pressure for finer work. I have a regulator on the wall within arms reach of where I work when blasting. Regards, Mark

[@NorthernChev]

Mark Presling That would require constant attention. Turning it up, then turning it down, then turning it up again. All just to finesse one piece. Nah, I’ll pass.

[@stank9203]

How have you found your sandblasting cabinet after all your improvements did you upgrade the compressor?

[@Preso58]

To be honest, I think I had much higher expectations after watching many videos that reviewed upgrades and addons for this type of sandblaster. I suspect that many of them were sponsored by suppliers and as such you rarely get an accurate appraisal. Many of the upgrades that I have done are definitely beneficial. Things like upgrading the light, adding a cyclone dust extractor and adding castors and a bottom shelf do make it easier to use. However, in terms of actual rust and paint removal efficiency, the improvement is not as high as I was hoping for. It does what I want it to at present but I sometimes struggle to get some types of paint off large pieces. Having a new compressor does help (it's now a Chicago Hush 100) in terms of the actual duty cycle of the compressor pump. With my old setup the motor on the compressor ran non stop and the receiver was gradually draining away as you cleaned your parts. Now at least, the compressor can keep up and I don't notice a pressure drop. Long story short, don't believe everything you see on YT! Regards, Mark

[@binjaminson3089]

Could you please show or tell us about the Bridgeport reference book you mentioned in the last 2 videos? Thank you!

[@Preso58]

Unfortunately I am still waiting on mine to be delivered. I got it on Amazon. It's called A Guide to Renovating the Bridgeport "2J" Variable Speed Milling Machine Paperback - 14 February 2013 by ILION Industrial Services LLC (Author) Regards, Mark

[@charles1379]

Hi mark, great work on the Bridgeport, unfortunately your disease affects a number of us. I sympathies with you. also it was a novel mod to the sand blaster , I have the exact same unit and just underwent a modification of my original gun to improve its performance. its not bad, but could be better. In regard to the Mod with the air solenoid, you used single insulated 240V wires to the solenoid. That is somewhat dangerous (very) as one nick will result in exposing 240V ac to the metal cabinet. now with your hands through the holes in the side of the cabinet it would be an interesting reaction on getting a jolt, The normal jerk and release action would keep you attached to the cabinet which could be fatal. The single insulated wiring is also illegal in Australia (if not in all countries) so should not be undertaken even for experimental purposes. I am happy to discuss it further off line if you wish. in regard to the sand blasting gun, I would consider casting my own, are the files for 3d printing the patterns available? I recal viewing the video on it many months ago and so I should re look at it. BTW, I am based in western Sydney, with a mill, lathe, foundry and all the welding gear to trip over. cheers

[@Preso58]

Charles, thanks for the feedback. You are right about the single insulation. I have some split corrugated conduit which will go over the wires and I will clamp the conduit down so it can't be hooked and broken. I do have STL files of the castings and the core boxes. You can download them from Dropbox here www.dropbox.com/s/kaqqxbsk2hkjpuh/Blast%20gun%20latest.zip?dl=0 Let me know if you cannot get the files and I can email them to you instead. Regards, Mark

[@charles1379]

@@Preso58 Thanks Mark. keep up the good work.

[@Rolingmetal]

I bed you could do a great job painting a car. Me, I hate painting, especially the barn doors :) I slabbed on some 5 euro paint on my black Karger lathe. I think it held up o.k in 3 years. Even the parts where the oil from the bearing runs over, are still black. Prep work is most important and time consuming. I actually used some brake fluid to strip the paint from the bed. Worked, ok probably not completely environmentally correct

[@Preso58]

Horses for courses! *Old jungle saying* Remember that from the old Phantom comics? I have done that myself (slapping on cheap paint) but I now have the time and the disposable income to do it better. The hard part is when you put on a really nice finish and then bump the surface or drop a screwdriver on it and chip it. Regards, Mark

[@SciFiMind]

I think we all share that sickness. Now just resist the urge to rescrape it while its apart and count it as a win ;)

[@craigtate5930]

I just heard something about you u building or built a jet engine? Do you have any videos of that? That is a special passion of mine to someday scratch build a small jet , would love to see anything you might be into in that regard.

[@Preso58]

Craig, I put the video up on another channel that I started years ago. I am pretty sure I have forgotten the password for it and the footage is all in SD and 4:3 format but the link is here kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGipZXWmYrmWiqM Regards, Mark

[@craigtate5930]

@@Preso58 awesome thanks for passing that on. Love that kinda of stuff

[@caseytailfly]

I think it’s called “shipwrights disease” and there is no known cure. Part of me would have been tempted to simply clear coat over the sanded paint with all the different colors showing through. But surely a cooler head would have prevailed.

[@Preso58]

When I first got the mill I thought the paint wasn't too bad and I sort of liked the shop worn look but it had to come apart anyway to fix the broken lube system. When I realised that it had been painted with a brush I just had to do more than give it a superficial clean. Your observation about shipwrights disease reminds me of watching Leo working on the Tally Ho. When I first found his channel he was tearing the upper deck structure apart and it has progressed to the point where there is almost nothing left of the original boat. I think he kept the lead keel! He is a master woodworker though and if you haven't already seen it his channel is called Samson Boat Company. Regards, Mark

[@MrJTJINX]

dipping in caustic (sodium hydroyide) degreases ready for painting. its sold in DIY stores as a drain cleaner, weed killer etc - a white crystal powder which dilute in water, sold in the anal retentive EU in 1 ltr tubs further afeild probably comes in bigger containers.

[@MrJTJINX]

im using digital variable frequency drives to get 3 phase, they have been really reliable even the cheap imports from chinkongtiwan (not racist, an amlemation of 3 place names - also not a creed they are places not people, race belongs to people, place belongs to object)

[@MF175mp]

Next up, rework the ways to same standards as the paint job 🤪

[@Preso58]

I wish! I really envy those that own Biax scrapers and massive granite surface plates. Keith Rucker has a nice selection! Regards, Mark

[@wolfgangbalu1253]

Better you laid down the cable in a cable tube, big enough for a second and third cable.

[@Preso58]

Yes, hindsight eh? Regards, Mark