Absolute Beginner's Guide to Decorative Glass

[@davidclark5975]

Mr. Presling, Nice details on your lighting fixtures.... I have been working in the art glass field since 1976 and glue chipping was one of the last techniques I learned. If you use between 1.5 - 2.0 ounces of glue per square foot you will get predictable results. The low range yields a delicate fern like pattern, where the 2 ounce per square foot yields a more chipped pattern. I always chip a square foot of glass each time I chip. It is really hard to gauge how much glue to pour onto small pieces of glass. Also after mixing the glue and water together, use a mason jar with the lid on to keep the H2O from evaporating. My 15 page manual says to soak the glue between 1 - 2 hours. Also when heating in the double boiler let all the bubbles disappear. It takes a minimum of 30 minutes but the book I use mentions that.... stirring every 5 minutes or so. Your electronics for the double boiler is fantastic! You would really have to try hard to burn the glue. Never have gotten used to the smell of the heated glue. Hope this info helps a bit. Best, Redfields Stained Glass Lawrence, Kansas

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the tips David. I did some more test pieces after the samples I showed in this video and they chipped a lot quicker but some areas let go of the sandblasted glass without chipping it. I heated a larger quantity of glue and poured it directly onto the glass and it stayed hot long enough to smooth out into a good even thickness. The bubbles still formed though even though I didn't stir it for the last five minutes or so. If I do it again I will leave it on the heat for longer as you suggest. I kept the left over glue in a sealed jar and I have read that pearl glue works better after it has been cycled through several heatings. I would like to have a go at something more artistic next time. Maybe a nice art deco mirror? Regards, Mark

[@happygilder]

Thank you so much Mark! my subscriber count had a massive overnight jolt thanks to your vid! I hope you stick with the glue chipping. It gets easier :D One bit of advice from watching your process would be to apply it from a bottle with a nozzle. That way the air bubbles on the surface don't go on the glass. It also stays liquid in the bottle for much longer than if it's sat in the pan. Great vid as always!!

[@Preso58]

Thanks Paul. I hope your channel keeps growing. The content is superb and I think it's clear that you know your subject matter and you are able to make it accessible and achievable. I did do two more pieces of glass and I mixed up a bigger batch of glue so it would stay hot longer. I poured it on directly from a spout and I was able to get it to spread out into a more uniform thickness. It also hardened and chipped a lot more quickly. Unfortunately, it let go of the sandblasted glass in some places without chipping up the surface. I will send you some pictures to get your analysis but I think it might be something to do with the grit I am using for sandblasting. Regards, Mark

[@happygilder]

@@Preso58 I have the same problem sometimes where there are areas that the glue hasn't gripped on to. It's not uncommon for me to do a second application on these areas. I'm yet to get to the bottom of that one but I just bought a small book on glue chipping so I'll send you photos of the relevant pages.

[@Machine_NZ]

Hi Preso, glass work is another one of those 'old' skills which is now lost. Glad there are still people like Paul out there keeping these past trades/skills alive. Fascinating series so far......

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I think that's why I was so interested in the processes I saw Paul doing on his channel. The first time I saw the glue chipping done I thought it was some sort of magic. There are so many decorative effects that can be achieved and the best part is that it can look quite rough from the back but when seen through the layer of glass on top it looks fantastic. Regards, Mark

[@Pest789]

I had never even heard of glue chipped glass before. What an amazing technique!

[@brettus9115]

In the early 90's (for me) we just used 1ft wide thick masking tape for sandblasting tombstones. Everything was scribed with a scalpel back then and was torture on my hands lol. What was truly magical is watching a carver add names etc to existing headstones at the cemetery (EG: partner cremated and added to the site) and creating a V shaped lettering purely with chisel and hammer.

[@AaronEngineering]

Very interesting video Preso. I agree, sand blasting looks much better than the cO2 laser engraving. Oh my, that bloke over in the UK does some amazing work. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Aaron

[@Preso58]

Thanks Aaron. I would give my left you know what to be able to produce such outstanding graphic design work that Paul does. Regards, Mark

[@camatbattler2233]

Beautiful work Mark. What diverse and interesting range of topics you dish up to us, love it. I always remember a very old mate of mine, who when he was a first year cabinet making apprentice was charged with the job of starting earlier than the tradesmen to light up the gas burners to get the glue pots ready for the days work. I remember him saying they used a concoction with Pigs Trotters as the main ingredient for the glue. Cam

[@Preso58]

Thanks Cam. Yes that hide glue reminds me of something you would find bubbling away in a witch's cauldron. When I first started teaching there were old electrically heated glue pots still in the store rooms but I never actually used the stuff with students. Regards, Mark

[@berniesr]

The glue chipping is a really interesting effect who would have thought hide glue would have that effect

[@Preso58]

I know. It sort of blew my mind when I realised that something made from animal carcases could bond that well to glass. I have tried bonding glass with modern epoxy glues and mostly the joints fail. Regards, Mark

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Preso, this is why I like your channel so much, everything is explained in way I can understand, no bullshit big names for starters, In my opinion I think the you have made the right choice on patterns, it really suits the rest of the design, thank you for another great video mate, cheers

[@Preso58]

Thanks Matty. I like the herringbone pattern too. It has looks right for the art deco styling but the glue chipped glass is great because every piece is different. I'm afraid I'm just too impatient to do 20 pieces. Regards, Mark

[@MattysWorkshop]

@@Preso58 I think being impatient has payed off this time mate

[@joell439]

wow - I always learn something unexpected watching your channel. Can't wait for the next episode. 👍😎👍 ....... Cheers Mark

[@elesjuan]

I finally got around to watching this video. You said the pros would have that vinyl cut already, but let's be honest....I make things out of vinyl with a plotter, and it'd have taken me hours to cut, weed, and apply that stencil to the glass vs just laser cutting after you apply the vinyl! To me, that laser cutter IS the pro move! Back to the subject at hand... I've really enjoyed this series a lot. These lights are going to look spectacular in your garden and I'm quite envious of this and would LOVE to make some myself. Problem is I just don't have the time and tools available. Good job, sir!!

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the feedback. The laser is a bit quicker in that you don't need to use a transfer vinyl to get the pre cut mask onto the glass. The laser cut edges aren't quite as crisp as you would get with a vinyl cutter, especially in the tight corners. The laser is good for getting the pattern aligned on the glass too. If you have some way of registering the glass with the origin of the laser it comes out exactly right every time. After a few failures I realised that I should have been homing the laser after each cycle since the pattern started drifting out of alignment after each pass. When we first started using computers at school we had one of those Roland ink plotters. I believe that there was an accessory that allowed you to fit a knife to it but at the time we just used it to print out CAD drawings. It was dreadfully slow but it was really cool to watch. The lights do look good and they have several advantages over the old ones. The bonus is the pretty light patterns made by the bars in the front! Regards, Mark

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Thank you for the Happy Gilder mention. I immediately subscribed! I admire that sort of work and look forward to your future projects incorporating some of those techniques.

[@Preso58]

My pleasure. I thought that more people should have the opportunity to see the wonderful work that Paul does. Regards, Mark

[@Rustinox]

I've never seen this glue chipping before. Very interesting.

[@matthewf1979]

Paul’s glass work is astounding! I’m looking at those vinyl cutters for brass etching. I build tube guitar amps for fun/side job. Having an etched brass negative control panel and nameplate really stands out. It’s laborious cutting the vinyl by hand but it gets you by.

[@Preso58]

I am still keen on getting a vinyl cutter myself. There's plenty of applications, including making your own ironic tee shirts! Regards, Mark

[@mikemichelizzi2023]

That herringbone pattern looks great in those lights. It's a shame the glue chipping was so inconsistent - it looks pretty good too.

[@Preso58]

The thing I liked about the glue chipping is that each piece is unique and the result is always interesting as it reveals itself. Evidently, there is a whole language used to describe the patterns created by glue chipping. The pro's refer to "fern leaves" and "coffee bean" patterns. Regards, Mark

[@mikemichelizzi2023]

@@Preso58 I saw some booth partitions made of glass in a restaurant yesterday that had what looked to be a glue chipped finish. They definitely had some fern pattern vibes about them.

[@iTeerRex]

Very cool process and very beautiful results from the glue technique, but yes a bold and simple itching for this is thing to do.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I do like the glue chipped pieces because they are all different and it's a surprise when the patterns reveal themselves. Etching is super quick though. Regards, Mark

[@pgs8597]

G’day Mark. Thanks I learnt something today. I’ve sand blasted glass many years back using playground sand, it works well it just needs to be very dry but remember to tell the better half what’s in the microwave otherwise she’ll think she’s at the beach. It was a 5ft glass motif for our bedroom door so I was forgiven. Cheers Peter

[@Preso58]

I have never tried silica sand. I guess it's not used too much because of the hazards of silicosis. I have a shop vac and a cyclone on the outlet port of my sandblaster and although it's super noisy I don't get any dust leaking out. A five foot piece of glass must have been an epic project though. Well done! Regards, Mark

[@pgs8597]

Hi Mark. Hey between brake and clutch asbestos dust blown off with air back in the 70s and 80s and being a smoker for 50 years silicosis will have to wait in line. Yes the glass was a challenge to get the blending right although it can be useful if your after clouds in the sky. Cheers

[@HoutmeyersP]

I like the info provided on how glass is cut and how the glue chipping works...thanks for that Mr Presling. But seeing what is needed to get a few small pieces of glass glue chipped i would never bother doing it myself. Its far more cost effective to buy patterned glass (even glue chipped glass can be found) to use for such a unique project. Allthough there's a lot of work needed to make these unique garden lights....they will be at a high quality level that can no longer be bought these days. Over here in Europe you can buy more and more things that look nice and feel like its high quality ...but after a short period they do turn into crap. The only way to go if you want something that will last is fabricating your own , like you are doing. Keep posting your fabrications !

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the feedback. I realised early on that the glue chipping was going to be time intensive and I can be impatient. Even so, I like the glue chipped pattern because every piece is different. I actually got all the lights finished today and they are all in the garden and working well. Even my wife is impressed so that's a bonus! Regards, Mark

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Bigger, it was the hide glue finish for me.....what a very interesting process PS great lights!!

[@Preso58]

Thanks Peter. For the record, all the lights are finished now and in the garden. My wife is quite pleased! Regards, Mark

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Thanks, Preso! I've had an old, hanging, fluorescent cigarette light that's been in need of a cool piece of glass for oh, idk, like 30 years I guess 😏. Really like the concept of glass chipping, not sure how well it would work on a large piece of glass. Definitely will have to check out that other fellas channel 😊. Thanks for the share! Cheers 😁

[@Preso58]

I have seem some really large pieces of glass being chipped. Apparently, it's really important to level the glass so the blue doesn't run off one end. Wait till you see Paul scalloping glass. It blew my mind! Regards, Mark

[@sparkiekosten5902]

Thank you. This is why I love hanging out on youtube. I might say things like, "you have too much time on your hands"....but I had no idea that this kind of art/ability is out there to fracture glass. Thanks Mark...You learned me something today!

[@Preso58]

You're welcome. I agree with the notion of KZbin as a learning tool. Reading books is good but as a visual learner I can take in more by seeing it done rather than just reading about it. Regards, Mark

[@rodfrey]

Hi, Mark! I really enjoyed this project and the end result is truly lovely. Apologies for the busybody comment following. I'm sure you know this, but for the benefit of others who may not, it is generally not recommended to cut vinyl on a laser cutter, assuming it's polyvinyl chloride, which is what vinyl usually refers to. When cut the material releases hydrochloride gas, which (in addition to rusting bits of machine) very rapidly degrades the lens. The makerspace I attended had a lens destroyed after about fifteen minutes of cutting vinyl despite a pretty robust extraction system. I suppose if one wanted to take the risk, leaving the door open and rigging a strong fan blowing crosswise would do a lot to protect the lens. Thanks for all the work you put into your excellent videos, and for being so intentional about promoting other good channels you come across.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the feedback. The vinyl I was using does not contain Chlorine or Chlorides. I was warned very early on when getting started with laser cutting that PVC is totally unsuitable for a laser cutter/engraver. The type of material I was using is EVA which is Ethylene Vinyl Acetate. It is commonly used for film plastics, wire insulation and adhesive films. When it is being processed in the laser cutter you get a fain whiff of hot plastic but nothing like the acrid fumes from PVC. Regards, Mark

[@rodfrey]

@@Preso58 Thanks, I didn't know about EVA, it's great to learn about it.

[@ancienttraveller9297]

Thanks for the pure gold tip at the end of this video..... having tried old glass and given up! I only learned afterwards about using new glass. Thank you again. Keep up the brilliant work. Cheers Leone

[@Preso58]

New glass is a joy to work with. Old glass is cantankerous and obstinate. A bit like me I'm afraid. Regards, Mark

[@derekwilkinson7939]

As usual, very interesting.

[@ruperthartop7202]

Really interesting, thanks for sharing

[@neodimium]

19:00 take that box and put it in the fridge. Preferably second fridge just for that purpose. That would speed up dehumidification process.

[@Preso58]

I hadn't thought of that. The climate where I live can be very humid at times. Earlier this year we had several months of solid rain and many houses (including ours) had issues with black mould. Nothing would dry out. We ended up running our air conditioner units on the dehumidify cycle in an effort to pump the moisture outside. Regards, Mark

[@Warped65er]

Quite interesting as always. So many variations, offsets, and pattern options with the laser engraver/cutter. Depending on how much weeding you want to do, cause that gets old real quick. LOL With the Glue Chipping I believe the dehumidifier needs a re-think, or if possible try pulling a small vacuum on some test pieces. Thanks for the edutainment.

[@Preso58]

I think that people that do glass work must be way more patient than me. The waiting game for the glue chipping seems to be part of the process. I must say, it can be quite interesting to see the patterns reveal themselves of the course of days but I haven't heard of vacuum assisted chipping. I'll run it by the Happy Gilder to see what he thinks. Regards, Mark

[@Warped65er]

@@Preso58 The vacuum thought was to rid the glue of moisture quickly with zero heat. Watching water boil in a jar at room temp. while hooked to a vacuum pump decades ago stuck with me. LOL

[@cncshrops]

Great to have found your channel! I've used the thin tacky-back as a sandblast mask quite successfully. But it's vital to remove any air bubbles trapped during application. Grit just blasts straight through the little dome😕. Excellent content, thank you.

[@Preso58]

Yes, that happened on the first piece I did and it looked really weird when a hole seemed to appear magically out of nowhere. Luckily, it was just a test piece. Regards, Mark

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great video. Very detailed. Mahalo for sharing!🙂🐒

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. Next and final episode should be out in a week or so. (The lights are actually finished and in the garden). Regards, Mark

[@garagemonkeysan]

@@Preso58 Can't wait to see them! : )

[@mchiodox69]

Very cool

[@ВикторТокарев-о6ъ]

Хорошо получается 👍

[@marlobreding7402]

Love Your taste in music.

[@Preso58]

Surprisingly, that clip was from the KZbin audio library. They seem to be improving the quality of what's on offer. Previously, it was all a bit cheesy and elevator music-esque. Regards, Mark

[@marlobreding7402]

@@Preso58 the outro music was Mississippi Delta Blues.

[@simple_fred]

neat, have you considered using vacuum desiccation to dry the glue without weaken it with heat.

[@Preso58]

No, I have not. Most of the information I have regarding the glue curing suggest that it can't be hurried. The chemistry is both fascinating and complex. Basically, you have to reverse the hydration and the cooling. I will ask the Happy Gilder if he has heard of using vacuum assisted drying. Regards, Mark

[@dancollins1012]

Superb!

[@ozrc1017]

Hey Mark, Great video, big fan. Thought you maybe interested that professional engravers don't use vinyl when sandblasting. They use a produce called resist. You can purchase it from problast in Nsw. It's a similar process to making silk screens. The other thing is, why don't you just use your laser to engrave the glass? If you make a solution of dishwashing detergent and water, - use lots of detergent. Then soak a piece of paper in the detergent and place it on the glass before engraving, you will get similar results to sandblasting without all the work. Hope you understand what I'm saying, clear as mud. Anyway thanks again for all your great videos and content.

[@Preso58]

I did laser engrave one glass panel just for comparison and it's actually quicker to sandblast. I had to do 20 pieces of glass so the sandblasted technique won out in the end. I also find that the laser etched glass is a little less opaque but that could be to do with my settings. If I were to be doing a lot more of this I would be looking to get some good quality resist but I had that black vinyl on hand and it worked OK. Thanks for the info. Regards, Mark

[@bobvines00]

Mark, those lights should be worth quite a few "brownie points," I think. They already look great, even before they are powder-coated. I _assume_ that getting the powder to go into the "interior" corners around the bars is where you expect difficulties. Electroplating has the same problems due to the electrical flux(?) patterns, based on my time spent supporting the Plating Shops where I used to work.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Bob. Yes, my wife was pleased. I have finished the powder coating and it all went very well. I used an unconventional method to make sure the powder went all over. It wasn't my idea though. It worked great. Regards, Mark

[@Rolingmetal]

Are you going to place the sand blasted side on the inside? Over here a light like that, would turn slowly green because of algae. And that means pressure washing, and that will result in wet socks and dirty clogs :) I imagine the climate down there is a bit dryer during the winter.

[@Preso58]

I have put the sandblasted side inside the enclosure. The biggest problem with the previous (cheap) lights were the ants that carried their eggs up inside the cavity of the light in wet weather. Surprisingly, the old lights never did get any algae on them. The good thing is that with the new ones I could just hose them off. I took a long time to decide what sort of materials I was going to use. I wanted everything to be as inert as possible but everything has a life span and I am hoping that these are at least "10 Year Lights". Normally we do have dry winters here but this last one has been strange. Wet and cold is not very pleasant! Regards, Mark

[@Rolingmetal]

So you better you some sealant to keep the ant out this time :) 10 years would be a nice live span for some garden lighting. So down there, you are also starting to notice the effects of climate change...

[@Preso58]

@@Rolingmetal I don't really want to seal up the glass just yet. Silicone is such messy stuff! I will just wait to see how much moisture gets inside. The biggest issue with climate change here is that the fire season is starting earlier, finishing later and it's becoming more severe. Regards, Mark

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing!

[@roundtuitracingaz132]

One of the projects on my extensive list of things to do is replace my shop door. I wanted one with a half round window in the top so I could try my hand at stained glass. I think I will try a version with glue chip as the base glass piece. I was going to use the cheat method of the stick on lead and translucent paint and I think the glue chip would look great.

[@Preso58]

One of the reasons I wanted to use the glue chipped pattern is because each piece is unique and the patterns are always interesting as they reveal themselves. When it's combined with gilding the results can be stunning. Gilding is actually a lot easier than I thought it would be. When you watch the Happy Gilder do it you think "I could do that'! Regards, Mark

[@roundtuitracingaz132]

@@Preso58 I have been researching hide glue for a few days now, what a #%*@@!$% rabbit hole that's been. I'll keep it to one question though, what gram strength did you use?

[@Preso58]

@@roundtuitracingaz132 Not sure if there is a specific strength for the glue but I used a glue to water ratio of 2 parts water to one part glue by weight. The Happy Guilder uses 1.5 parts water to 1 part glue by volume. The glue I used came from U Beaut Polishes www.ubeaut.com.au/hide.htm There is a leaflet that came with the glue that has a very interesting summary of how hide glue works and the different stages it goes through during hydration and heating. It seems that hide glue has many advantages over modern PVA water based glues but I think it fell out of favour due to the preparation time. Regards, Mark

[@osgeld]

In 2017 I bought a GRAPHTEC CC100-20 off ebay for 28 bucks, spent another 15 on a 2 amp 24 volt power adapter (not that its a magic one or anything) and discovered it was compatible with a cameo silhouette SD (as Graphtec and US Cutters joined at the hip). It was a fun toy... my wife asked me if it can cut stickers for her "happy planner" sure its got fiducials and a laser scanner. Now we have 4 for her biz, one out in the shop cutting stencils for paint and SMD paste... and of course goofy decals I would send you the CC100-20, its been sitting for over a year now, but I am in the USA and postage would probably exceed its value

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the offer but you are correct. I know a thing or two about what it costs to have things shipped here from the USA. Having a mid range vinyl cutter is still on my "want" list. I met an engineer who worked for Google when I was in San Francisco and his side gig was making cool, ironic tee shirts. He said he purchased a cheap vinyl cutter and spent his evenings making new designs which could be heat transferred onto cotton tee shirt material. In my shop I could use it to make decals for, well, anything! Regards, Mark

[@Daniel_en_el_trabajo]

if you vacum the vinl or glue temporary then you can cut in the laser, then realice it and transfer and omit the tedius part, i worked in MBenz in argentina and they have a laser machine to engrave the glass or paint parts for police with a code, sorry by my english im frome Argentina, nice channel

[@Preso58]

I hadn't thought about cutting the vinyl and glue in the laser after everything had set. It's possible that the laser might only melt the glue but it's worth experimenting with. Regards, Mark

[@Rob_65]

I also think the herringbone pattern is more fitting the art deco style. If this would have been any other style of lamp, the glue chip is much nicer. When you explained the glass chipping, I was thinking about my 3D printing experiments with PETG. That stuff sticks too well to the glass and tears out larger chips of the glass plates more than once. Thinking about this any further, I came up with the theory that the way the glass chips also depends on the amount (and the coarseness) of the sand blasting. Regarding the laser engraving or sandblasting: yes, laser engraving takes more time but since you don't have to babysit the process you can do something else during that time. I have engraved glass a number of times that way and, like you, I also found that sand blasting results in a nicer effect. With sand blasting I have a better control over the surface finish/texture by using different grit sizes.

[@Preso58]

I found that the sandblasted finish was more opaque than the laser etched glass. The laser etching looks more like an eggshell finish. I too have found that the PETG filament I started to use on my old Ender3 printer was capable of chipping the borosilicate glass build plate. Paul from the Happy Gilder KZbin channel has been encouraging me to have another go at the glue chipping but I'll have to wait for the right project to come along. Thanks for watching. Regards, Mark

[@blaizerhodes]

I was wondering whether you couldn't make one sheet metal mask and tape it to the glass before sand blasting?

[@Preso58]

I would think (although I have never tried it) that the high pressure air might lift the metal mask and allow the grit to etch the glass beyond the perimeter of the mask. I think that masking tape would work fine. Regards, Mark

[@Jameson4327]

I like the sandblasting better.

[@dannywilsher4165]

Quite interesting, thank you Sir!!!

[@peterlekkerkerker4482]

Just an idea, try 3d printing a layer PETG on the glass instead of this goopy stuff. PETG tends to ruin glass beds, perhaps you can use it to your advantage?

[@Preso58]

I know all about that. I had an Ender3 with a borosilicate glass bed and the first time I tried PETG it tore great chunks out of that glass. Ruined it in no time! Regards, Mark

[@wernerpfeifer]

Wouldn't etching with silica be an option?

[@Preso58]

If you mean silica sand in the sand blaster that would also mean silica dust which also means danger of inhaling the dust. Silicosis is a nasty disease so I will probably stick to garnet. Regards, Mark

[@wernerpfeifer]

@@Preso58 Sorry, I meant hydrofluoric acid. Would that be an option?

[@Engineerd3d]

Use a tile saw with a cheap diamond blade to cut older glass.

[@Preso58]

It would certainly help with thicker glass. I tried to cut some very old 6mm thick plate glass and no matter what I tried it just fractured everywhere but on the scored line I had made. Regards, Mark

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

😱 Being a vegetarian I give a thumbs up for the sand blaster 👍😀

[@Preso58]

Well, you wouldn't want to smell the cooking hide glue then. It's pretty intense. Regards, Mark

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

@@Preso58 🤢🤮

[@thecarl168]

Hi Mark what is the laser engraver you use ?

[@Preso58]

Carl, my laser engraver is a no name Chinese 50W CO2 laser. I purchased it as a written off item from the school I used to work at. When I got it, it wasn't working and I have made fairly extensive upgrades to it. The thing that it most needed was a new digital signal processor. The original unit was fitted with a dongle and I suspect the vendor (Red Dot Machinery) sent the incorrect dongle which essentially crippled the machine. The guy I had to deal with at Red Dot Machinery was a crook and refused to replace the machine under warranty and as a result it was written off by the school. You can purchase machines like mine on Ebay and they are reasonably priced but if you are thinking about getting one try to ensure that the DSP is not fitted with a dongle and that you can run software like Lightburn which is a much better alternative to the appalling Laserworks that is supplied with most Chinese lasers. Overall, my machine is now reliable and accurate but it has taken a lot of work to get it that way. To be fair, most Chinese machines are now pretty good for the price but when I first got it, mine looked like it had been cobbled together from whatever scrap parts were lying around the floor on a Friday afternoon. There were loose fasteners, missing fasteners, scary wiring, mismatched parts and broken parts and to top it off it just refused to run or do anything except give error messages on the DSP. Regards, Mark

[@thecarl168]

You are very kind to answer me Regards from Canada ( Québec)

[@MattsAwesomeStuff]

Hey Mark, great process, I've a few questions: 1 - I presume the vinyl you're cutting on your laser is actual vinyl, not something else you're just calling vinyl for convenience sake? If so... vinyl is PVC (it's the "v" in PVC). The "C" in PVC is "Chloride", and I thought basically rule #1 on using a laser cutter, is to never cut chlorinated plastics on it (well, maybe Rule #1 is don't look into laser with remaining eye). I believe the chlorine gas devours the laser optics and, I dunno, other stuff inside there. Maybe there's a safety concern with chlorine gas to (not something I'd worry about, I worry about damaging the machine). Did you know about this, and just decide that it's not a risk magnitude that you care about, or, did you mitigate it some other way? 2 - Etching glass directly with the laser (the way you tried but decided not to do) is dangerous to your project. I've seen high failure rates from it. It just takes a few thermal and mechanical cycles for that etching to propagate badly and ruin the workpiece. Something about the laser creating significant stresses that are captured, but, a bit of a ticking time bomb. Did you have any failures with this, or have you seen any failures since? (I agree that the sand blasting is superior for both speed and finish). 3 - At the end when you were removing the hide glue overspray (over-spread?) with the x-acto knife... weren't you worried about basically scoring the glass? Wouldn't that lead to failures in the near future (after thermal/mechanical cycling)? I know just enough about glass to be tempting to think I know anything at all. There's a bit of a false dichtomy of "should" vs "shouldn't" when the the true story is one of magnitudes. "Yeah you shouldn't, but in this context, it's not significant and wouldn't matter". Hence my questions. Loving this series by the way, learning all kinds of techniques and applications in a practical way.

[@Preso58]

PVC is harmful in a laser cutter as the chlorine gas that is liberated will corrode any metal components and the gas is also nasty to breathe. As far as I know, there are no chlorides in the vinyl I was using. I have a fan which sucks any gases, dust and smoke down through the honeycomb table and out through the rear of the cabinet. I usually have the roller door open so it vents to outside the shop. On the day I shot the video I had the door closed as it was quite cold. However I didn't catch any hint of chlorine when I was cutting the vinyl mask. I guess there is always the risk of inhaling some by-products from materials being cut. Some woods can release toxic fumes. Australian Black Bean is one that comes to mind. It's always the case that the hazard is mitigated by frequency of exposure. If I were doing this every day I would be taking a lot more care about ventilation but since I only use the laser occasionally it doesn't bother me too much. It's interesting that some people who smoke get very upset about inhaling fumes from welding galvanised steel and like to tell me so, but as a non smoker I think that we might be venturing into black pot and kettle territory! I have done a lot of glass etching on the laser and I have never had any breakages or fracturing of the glass. I once had to etch 40 glass trophies to give away as gifts and I still have one that was done back in 2009 and it's still good. My understanding is that the intense heat of the laser in contact with the glass causes a very localised heating and the surface basically spalls and fractures but it's all in the top layer of the glass and the heat can't conduct very far. The process of removing the glue means running the tip of the knife very lightly along the edge of the cut vinyl mask and normally you only run the knife along the surface of the glass but there is no pressure behind it so there is no danger of scoring the glass. In my case, because I had cut the vinyl in the laser it does have a score line all the way around the opening. You can feel the tip of the blade running in the score line but it doesn't seem to affect the glue chipping process. Maybe on a big piece it could be an issue and that's why most of the pro's use a vinyl cutter before applying the mask. I would still like to some more serious glue chipping on something like a decorative mirror but I have a lot more practice to do before I commit to buying an expensive piece of glass to try it on. Regards, Mark

[@MattsAwesomeStuff]

@@Preso58 "As far as I know, there are no chlorides in the vinyl I was using." Maybe I'm mistaken then. I thought "vinyl" *is* PVC, by definition. Poly Vinyl Chloride.

[@swdweeb]

Bi-measurate, I love it.😄😄

[@DavidKutzler]

I thought it was "bi-measural."

[@swdweeb]

@@DavidKutzler we''re both wrong. 26:23. He wrote bi-mensurate 😄

[@Preso58]

Just don't say bi-menstrual!

[@kimwatson4554]

Loving your content, thanks for introducing me to a glass technique I didn't know existed. Cutting vinyl on a laser cutter is considered a big no no as it releases chlorine gas which is bad for you and your machine. How did you deal with that?

[@Preso58]

Kim, thanks for the feedback. With regards to vinyl, you may be thinking of Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC. It does contain chlorine but the vinyl I was using does not. Cutting or etching PVC on a laser engraver is quite harmful to the laser hardware. The chlorine gas is corrosive to metal parts not to mention one's lungs. My laser engraver has a built in fan which ventilates the working area. Most of the smoke and dust is pulled downwards through the honeycomb bed and blown outside. Regards, Mark

[@jescombe]

@@Preso58 Came to the comments to ask the same thing, thanks for the clarification.. 👍

[@gregfeneis609]

12:08 Vegans and vegetarians pls hide your eyes. Mark, very interesting stuff. Thanks for showing us.

[@Preso58]

Yeah, that glue smells quite funky when it's warming up. Very animal! Regards, Mark

[@niklnikl1]

Bi-menstruate LOL! Thank you for giving me the confidence to experiment with sand blasting glass.

[@TomLaios]

Two of my least favourite favourite glass types. Sandblasted glass absorbs all finger oils and dirt. It is almost impossible to clean.

[@Preso58]

Well, luckily I didn't have to handle it much. The garden lights have been out in the weather for several months and they still look great. There's no evidence of water getting in and so far the insects and ants haven't gotten inside either. Regards, Mark

[@TheducksOrg]

Fascinating that the glue has enough sticking power to break the surface of the glass!

[@Preso58]

Yes. It blew my mind a bit. I have tried and failed to get modern synthetic glues to stick to glass and evidently all you need to do is boil up some manky old animal skin and bones! Regards, Mark

[@swdweeb]

With all that hide glue you'll have to develop your luthier skills

[@Preso58]

I'd probably need to be able to play music first. Sadly, not a skill I possess! Regards, Mark

[@CapeCodCNC]

I bet if you just put it on your 3D printer bed it would dry it out. I was sure you would have done a wavy pattern on the glass. You really need to cast a spire for the tops....your own city skyline!

[@Preso58]

Just don't say they look like a Tardis! That's going to come up in the next episode. Regards, Mark

[@CapeCodCNC]

@@Preso58 You mean they are not for transporting baby Kookaburra to the future???? Oh man what a bummer I wanted to see some time travel!

[@Militarycollector]

I can’t believe you’re going through all that just to put a decorative pattern on the front of that glass

[@Preso58]

I know it seems excessive but a lot of what I like to do is to explore new techniques, materials and tools. One of the things I learned very early on in my teaching career was to look out for the students with a natural curiosity. They were the ones who learned the most and learned to be the best at what they do. When I finished the outdoor light project I was glad I used the herringbone pattern on the glass. It creates a lovely pattern at night. Plain frosted glass would work too but where's the challenge? Regards, Mark