Diesel Foundry Furnace Burner - Part 1

#metalcasting #homeshop #foundry
In this episode,
Switching from propane to diesel fuel - Pro's and Con's
Inventory of materials and equipment that I have collected for the build
Machining the burner tube, the burner nozzle adapter and the fuel line
Making the blower adapter for the burner tube.
Why a foundry furnace is like a jet engine!
You can check out SW Dweeb's diesel burner video here • Building a diesel burn...

[@nathanandress]

Haha😁 You can take the shop teacher out of the classroom, but you can't take the classroom out of the shop teacher!!! Forever cursed with the memory of teenage boys!! All the shop teachers around the world are with you and proud!!!

[@swdweeb]

Looking forward to seeing how awesome your burner turns out!

[@Preso58]

Thanks Perry. I have a good feeling about the build so far. I have decided to fit a PWM 12V speed controller to the console to vary the fuel delivery. Several people have warned about throttling the output of the fuel pump to control the fuel supply. Regards, Mark

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Preso, this is going to be a really interesting build and I’m keen to see how the pump and nozzle work out, not far of a turbine engine well I bet that’s got the brain cells thinking mate, top job, cheers

[@thosoz3431]

Stop laughing. In that voice. My school days over 50 years ago came back to me right there. What a delight your channel is Mark.

[@EDesigns_FL]

Mark, you used the corners of the collet block as the height reference when you milled the hex. They're chamfered and are not a good reference point. The flat faces of the collet block are a better reference surface. If you side mill, then you can just clamp the flats of the collet block in the vise jaws. If you want to end mill, then I suggest that you make up some 120° V-blocks. They can be used either to support the hex collet block from the bottom or against the vise jaws. The fuel pump that you selected for this project is intend to run at a constant flow and pressure. This is typically accomplished with a pressure relief valve that returns excess fuel to the fuel tank. Also, I would suggest using a needle valve to control fuel delivery to the burner. It will be much easier to adjust and provide a more consistent and stable flow rate.

[@rexmyers991]

I am so impressed with your ‘Engineering-on-the-fly’ abilities. VERY nice work.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the feedback. I will take your advice on the collet block. It was a cheap-ish import item so I am guessing it's not particularly accurate. Several people have given me information about the fuel pump and I am starting to rethink the plumbing for it. I want to hook it up the way I had planned first and use that as a base line. Most of the flame regulation is done by controlling the air so it's possible the fuel will just flow at a constant rate. Regards, Mark

[@MyLilMule]

Pretty cool build so far. I appreciate how you explain the technical side of your projects in a way that someone that has no experience with it can understand it. Well done as always.

[@trottermalone379]

Hi Mark. This was kick! Watching a machinist do plumbing is almost as much fun as watching an engineer do machining!

[@davidtaylor6124]

Excellent! I like how you checked the spanner in both orientations on the milled flats... sometimes you get lucky :) Very clever idea for the cooling too. You're a smart bloke.

[@Gabriel-kz8ns]

Hi! Never thought of using diesel for applications like that, amazing idea. About the pump, it might have too much pressure, I guess 5 bar at least, on automotive use there is a return line back to the fuel tank, and a cavity from where you pressurize the injectors. I am not sure if this is needed but it came to my mind. Have a good one, mate! Cheers from Argentina

[@johnmolnar2957]

looking forward to this build

[@_bodgie]

These pumps run submerged in petrol so they're safe. Interesting build, looking forward to seeing how it works.

[@blfstk1]

Good Show Mate: As per normal. Never thought of using diesel for a furnace. I don't know why. It burns. Looking forward to the balance of this project.

[@shawnhuk]

Very interesting video. Work very well done. Those spring tube benders work quite well at not kinking tubes if you can find them cheap.

[@wayne251975]

You can make them fairly easy. I use 12 to 14 ga galvanized electric fence wire turned right on whater size pipe or bolt that sizes it correctly with a drill. Works fine every time I've needed it.

[@lumotroph]

Great project! Looking forward to the next bit

[@jdmccorful]

Lookin good.Thanks for your time.

[@adamstripp39]

Cool project 👍

[@jirvin4505]

Looking forward to this project

[@traindriverluke]

Great project. It's well worth the switch. I went from a LPG burner to a diesel burner set up in my foundry. I'm very happy with it.

[@lancer2204]

Excellent wind up!

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

I will be back for the finish. I am sure it will be well done. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Harold. Fire and smoke, here we come! Regards, Mark

[@robertwalker7457]

This is really interesting thankyou. It is great to see machinists that still back off when threading to break the chips instead of doing it under power and hoping for the best. Foundry is the epitome of home engineering. My grandfather was a motor engineer working on Merlin's in WW2. He claimed that motor mechanics replaced parts but the engineers made there own as with casting bearings. I am looking forward to the rest of this series to get a better insight to his skills.

[@Preso58]

Thanks Robert. I would love to be able to sit down and talk with people like your grandfather. I bet they had some interesting stories to tell about those mighty Merlin engines. I did get a chance to talk to an RAAF engineer about jet engines and in two hours he set me straight on just about every misconception I had about how jet engines operate. Regards, Mark

[@stevesutton6093]

Nice work Mark, as guy with a career encompassing forty five years as an aircraft maintenance engineer and thirty years as a corporate jet pilot there is nothing I like better than the smell of burning kerosene in the morning, or in this case diesel fuel!

[@Preso58]

Me too. Fire and heat, what's not to like? Regards, Mark

[@bin_chicken80]

Thanks Mark. Always enjoy the videos. 👍

[@Engineerd3d]

I am looking forward to this. I am thinking of doing this with WMO. Thank you for sharing Mark!

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

G'Day Mark, Great information and project. I'll be following along. ATB...

[@1musicsearcher]

Looks like loads of fun!

[@Preso58]

Fun with an added dash of danger! Just my sort of project. Thanks for watching.

[@kerrywil1]

Very very nice video. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos

[@thehobbymachinistnz]

Hi Mark, great video and very well explained regarding LPG vs diesel fuel. I'm looking forward to the next videos on this build.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Such an interesting project. So looking forward to seeing how it develops. 👏👏👍😀

[@Radiotexas]

We'll get you cleared to the active runway with that "engine" mate!!! BTW, diesel is right at $3/gallon in Waco. Very interesting project.

[@Preso58]

Part of me really wants to add the free turbine. We shall see. Regards, Mark

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great video. Very interesting. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🙏

[@jonnafry]

Got my deck chair and pop-corn for this build ... gonna be good! Sterling content Preso.

[@MyHeap]

Hi Mark, This is a pretty exciting build. I am very much looking forward to seeing the next in the series. I am burning diesel but using a mig tip with compressed air to atomize. If this works better I may have to switch things up. Thanks for sharing! Joe

[@LitchKB]

Good stuff. You may want to look at a fuel pressure valve. That bike pump is not rated for the viscosity of the diesel, may also rely on a fuel return for cooling (I'm not sure if it's dead-head rated). Oil burner nozzles are designed to run with 80-200psi of pressure - I doubt that bike pump would get to 70psi - so you may find you're better off looking for a small "gear pump" (positive displacement pump) and an oil pressure regulator with a return line, or you could just get an oil burner pump that's designed to work with such a jet to begin with. Anyway, will be interesting if you get it working with that pump anyway. Other ideas - is an automotive power steering pump from a wreckers, a spare electric motor. Depending on how much you want to spend - you could get a 2nd hand 3ph motor and a VFD for output control.

[@1pbean]

Geez.....I didn't laugh about the brass nipple until you said don't laugh about the brass nipple! Really enjoyed watching the clever machining. I sure like the rear parting tool (don't laugh!).

[@Preso58]

I know, schoolboy humour! Regards, Mark

[@simongroot7147]

Those fuel pumps are designed to be immersed in fuel (Petrol/Gasoline). They use the fuel as a coolant. I guess that one has an internal regulator (it dumps unused fuel back to the pump inlet when flow is low) but it will be set somewhere between 3.5 and 4.0 bar pressure so bear that in mind when thinking about the fuel connections. The barb set up is usually good for 10 bar but the end of the pump is plastic and may deform when sufficient clamping pressure is used. In the in tank set up there is normally an O ring seal between the pump and flange and the pump is clamped into the tank sealing flange.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that information. The pump was supplied with two small hose clamps but due to the setup that I am contemplating I won't be able to use one on the output end of the pump. I guess it will be a case of trial and error. Regards, Mark

[@howder1951]

Nice video Preso, new learning to me, never considered using diesel before. Enjoyed very much, cheers!

[@ericstoner9255]

You’re a great teacher! You was a teacher at one point in your life! I’m from America and would love to have had you as a teacher

[@Preso58]

Thanks, I was a teacher in "Manual Training", then "Manual Arts" and finally "Industrial Technology". I thoroughly enjoyed my career of teaching young people to work with materials, processes and tools. Having said that, I think I got out at the right time. Public education in Australia is being slowly eroded by underfunding and a move towards "Design Education" which is code for making things out of sticks and string. I like to think that I can carry on from where I left off with my KZbin videos. Regards, Mark

[@ericstoner9255]

@@Preso58 I’m happy there’s people like you in this world that that care about teaching how to do different things. It gives them a way to make money and learn something new. I know I did. I guess you’re never too old to learn something new

[@markwilson753]

Awesome video! I really appreciate you showing the ebay pages where you purchased the items so that is fairly easy for us to purchase them. I love the amount of detail you go into. I will take your advice and start with the LPG burner but I think I will probably end up trying this too.👏

[@Preso58]

LPG is fairly easy and accessible. I have done many successful castings using what is essentially a giant Bunsen burner. It is slow though. Having a bigger diameter jet and some forced air would be a good intermediate step. Regards, Mark

[@wrstew1272]

It is a possibility to reuse the burner from a conventional furnace (they are readily available in my Northern Exposure environment), and just have to concoct the adapter to the insulated enclosure. 😊. Your turning is as usual brilliant! But for those who don’t have the luxury of the equipment that you have, a redneck alternative. 😮

[@willemvantsant5105]

Hi Mark, fitting a return line back to the fuel tank might be better with a regulating valve. This will ensure sufficient flow through the pump to aid in cooling of the pump.

[@Preso58]

I was thinking about a return line along the lines of the type that is used on model locomotives. They use mechanical water pumps and they can generate considerable pressure. The flow into the boiler is controlled with a bypass valve. If you open it fully it diverts all the water back to the tank. Regards, Mark

[@peterwooldridge7285]

Smashing...let's go with the jet

[@v8Mercury]

Great video thank you. I'm excited to see the results. I built a oil burner that uses compressed air. The blower is a better solution.

[@macw2234]

This is going to be very interesting ta

[@erniecamhan]

On the removable part of the nozzle, could you put an external chamfer to direct more cooling air in to the small gap

[@MrJohnnaz]

Hey Mark do you think a "gun" from a fuel oil furnace would work? Its already got all the parts you built, including an ignition transformer just flip a switch and it lights off.

[@Preso58]

I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Because of our climate, those sort of heating components aren't very common here. I believe Danfoss make some excellent fuel pumps with solenoid shut off valves. They can pump the fuel to a high enough pressure that it forms a fine mist that ignites very easily. Regards, Mark

[@ccbproductsmulti-bendaustr3200]

👏👏👏 Cheers Chris

[@dansw0rkshop]

I've used fuel oil burners, the Beckett type that has self contained ignition and atomization. Those are readily available around here in the US, and very easy to "overclock" to melt copper and bronze (aluminum bronze for marine use specifically).

[@MarkATrombley]

I would fill the small tube with fixturing alloy before trying to bend it.

[@StripeyType]

Preso I've got to say that a great favorite thing about your videos for me is how often I say "Oh yes I've been meaning to get on with this, let's see him do it first so I can figure out which mistakes I might've made without thinking about it" :D Which is to say: I see what mistakes I might've made because you point out a better way to do something.

[@Preso58]

I love the wonderful learning resources that KZbin makes available to us all. I read about a volunteer that was working with injured civilians in one of our many war torn regions and he had taught himself how to carry out minor trauma surgery by watching KZbin videos. If you watch enough videos you will eventually get a sort of consensus view on how things should be done successfully. Regards, Mark

[@qnner]

15:30 More skilled you are, luckier you get!

[@larryschweitzer4904]

Excellent video quality. I've been using propane for quite a few years. I'd like to start burning used compressor oil that I can get for free. I may have to dilute it with some diesel but worth a try.

[@Preso58]

As long as the fuel is clean and free of grit and sludge and thin enough to pump through the fine nozzle it should work. Regards, Mark

[@tobhomott]

Your solder joints should be safe as long as you pull the burner when you turn the blower off. Nice work, looking forward to seeing it run! 👍 I've run diesel, WVO and WMO in my foundry burners but they are simple gravity fed drip injectors that rely on a preheated furnace to vaporized the oil. A propane line provides the preheat, though when using my low thermal mass furnace I often just use them with a smaller blower as forced air propane burners.

[@Preso58]

Thanks. I was considering doing the preheat with the propane but if I can get the diesel to light off reliably it will save having to keep two fuels on hand. Regards, Mark

[@mrtnsnp]

"Jet Engine". Now there's a build!

[@howardosborne8647]

Mark,I see from comments/replies further down that you wonder if the diesel will be difficult to ignite from a cold start. If the fuel atomisation and air ratio are about right then it should light up with no hesitation. We run domestic central heating burners on both kerosene and red diesel(gas oil) and providing the fuel to air ratio and the atomiser nozzle are right the burner always ignites immediately when the fuel starts being pumped through. These central heating burners also only have a spark igniter to light the burner up at burn commencement.

[@Preso58]

I am taking my cue from Perry Merrit who assures me that his burner design doesn't need any pre-heat. I am a bit dubious about my fuel pump though. I suspect it won't atomise the fuel enough. I have had an offer of a mains powered high pressure pump which I will accept if my smaller pump is rubbish. I sill haven't gotten around to finishing the plumbing but I will know by the end of the week if it's a go or not. I am thinking about having a diesel/kerosene mix though. Regards, Mark

[@evil17]

@@Preso58I was a bit dubious about the pump Perry used also not knowing the pressure etc. I’m thinking along the lines of how common rail deisel injection works, the higher you get your pump and nozzle pressure the higher the output and efficiency, cant wait to see what you come up with.

[@Dans-hobbies]

Mark, does the blower motor have a debicated cooling fan, or does it rely on the air it's blowing for cooling? I've seen blowers that rely on the air they blow for cooling, die pretty quickly when you start decreasing flow.

[@Preso58]

I must say I haven't checked to see whether it has it's own cooling fan but I will. Regards, Mark

[@KF-qj2rn]

wow the fan is a beast...the cheapest diesel I've seen was 3.89/gal. out in central WA state. (4.25/gal. for gas at same). Free used vegetable oil/deep fryer grease would be interesting....OT: we had a surgeon here that was (caught) using the liposucted fat of his patients in his diesel vehicle...

[@Preso58]

I have a 10 litre tank for the fuel and if I can fill it for $20 and it will last for several furnace runs I will be happy. One of the problems with the propane is that there is always some gas left in the container when you take it back to swap it so that gas is wasted. It's not practical to let it run dry since the flame starts to sputter and it becomes impossible to control it. I have two cylinders though. It's still a nuisance. Regards, Mark

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Hi Mark, I’ll be following along on this build with interest. May I suggest you take a look at a Babington burner as I made one many years ago with quite good success. It will work very well with diesel and just means replacing the jet with a Babington set up. I used old cooking oil which I got for free but inevitably it’s messy compared to gas. Cheers, Stuart. Canberra.

[@Preso58]

Stuart, I had to google that. I had never heard of a Babington burner before. I will check out some more information about the operation of it. There's always something new to learn! Regards, Mark

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

@@Preso58 No worries Mark, I used an old brass door knob, which I still have, and it’s what my brother in law is using. I would like to swap from gas to diesel as well for the same reasons as you, safety and more heat although I wasn’t aware of the large increase in the btu over lpg. It’s certainly going to be an interesting build. Cheers 🍻

[@zumbazumba1]

I find it that reaching high temperature is not a problem -finding refractory material that can hold those temperatures and crucibles is WAY BIGGER PROBLEM. With high temperatures comes the price of professional equipment.

[@Preso58]

My refractory is only rated to about 1200C which is why I have never tried to melt iron. I mostly melt aluminium and I guess that if I can melt the quantity I need and then shut the furnace down I should be able to extend the life of the furnace. The next time I have to reline the furnace I may look for something that is capable of higher temperatures. Regards, Mark

[@mashedtomatoes8516]

Love it! I also specifically love how you cut the internal and external threads by hand. I've seen so many KZbinr DIYers do it with a cordless drill and just zip through it in one pass at max speed. Makes me shudder... 0.o

[@Preso58]

I am too poor to afford those new fangled spiral point taps. Old school works for me. Regards, Mark

[@flyerphil7708]

I use a central heating oil burner, it’s fantastic and so easy to run.

[@flyerphil7708]

I should have said, your burner should be great, look forward to seeing it run.

[@howardosborne8647]

The pressure jet burner and fan assembly from a domestic oil fired central heating boiler are perfect for a homemade furnace. Very simple to adjust the airflow or change the nozzle/jet size to alter the flame to suit your requirements too.

[@camillosteuss]

Mark, you might want to consider making a clearance hole in the tube for the fuel pipe, pull the pipe through and then finish soldering the other union once the pipe is in situ... It will allow you to tighten and check the nozzle or change it even should you so desire, but it wont leave you with a large hole to have to attempt to plug in a satisfactory manner... I know, its a hassle, as you have to snip the pipe off should you need to dismantle the system, but come on, you are unlikely to ever need to pull the fuel pipe out, the nozzle can be changed and lest you decide to change the pipe diameter, you wont tamper with the thing once its made anyways... I think its a good way to approach the situation, however unorthodox, as it would allow you to solder plug the pipe in that hole aswell, as the clearance would be .1mm oversize drill, just to allow the bends to pass through with ease... It solves two problems at once... It fixes the fuel pipe in position, plugs the hole airtight and does so without requiring any custom parts, just a bit of flux and filler when the torch is already blasting... All the best and kindest regards! Steuss

[@Preso58]

That was my original plan but I want to be able to move the burner nozzle in and out of the burner tube to fine tune the spray pattern. It does mean having to make a cover plate to seal the side of the burner tube but from what I have been told, if you get the position of the nozzle incorrect it will either clog up with carbon deposits or it will coat the inside of the burner tube with liquid fuel which drips down into the furnace walls. I can always seem to find a way of overcomplicating things. Like they say, "if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet". 😁 Regards, Mark

[@cogentdynamics]

I have similar issues with the collet blocks (mine are 5C). Better results come from the inexpensive “spin indexer”.

[@warrior69fox]

The reason your hex flats may not be coming out exactly the same could be due to the fact you are resting on the “point” of the er collet holder. That point or remaining radius may not be exact to the collet bore. If it’s not too hard clamping it onto a piece of material in the late and skimming this corners is a quick fix or grind them and measure them to the centerline of the collet bore.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. I now realise where I was going wrong all along. It seems sort of counterintuitive to grip the collet block on it's edges but I will be doing that from now on. Regards, Mark

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Very cool Preso, this is going to be a great build. Also loved seeing some wider shots of your workshop, I don't think I've ever seen a walk-around workshop-tour style video of yours - have you ever made one and I've missed it? Cheers, Craig

[@Preso58]

Craig, I have not done a workshop tour but I have shown parts of it. It's not as clean and organised as your shop and it takes me a while to tidy up each area before I try to shoot anything. It's sort of like playing Tetris with workshop equipment. Having two cars sharing the space is also a nuisance and I have to be super careful with Vanessa's Subaru Impreza. If I were to put metal chips or grinding sparks anywhere near it I would probably end up sleeping in the shed! I hope to be testing the burner nozzle tomorrow. Regards, Mark

[@CraigsWorkshop]

@@Preso58 after spending a few years in my previous workshop I know all the workshop Tetris tricks 😁

[@hillonwheels8838]

Nice work and I think the brass nipple (don't laugh) should be fine since air will be passing around it and the fuel should also cool it as it goes through it. When I was in the U.S. Navy I worked on the engines for the F18 Super Hornets and during schooling to work on them one of the items that we went over was cooling. For that engine 90% of the air that was compressed by the compressor is used for cooling the combustion chamber, high and low pressure turbines, and bleed air for cooling the electronics and by extent the pilot. When I say cooling the pilot is last on the cooling list I mean it no joke. Pilot comfort is very low on the list of necessities for military aircraft.

[@HansWeberHimself]

Actually the pilot is water cooled via the suit as well!

[@Preso58]

I made my own model turbojet engine and it's very instructive to see the effect of the compressor on the exhaust gas temperature. The tail pipe is machined from some heavy wall stainless steel tubing and it finishes at about 0.4mm thick. During start up it glows bright red but as the compressor spools up the temperature drops way back. I think the term "cooling air" is a very relative term and I believe that air straight from the compressor can be up to 400 degrees C but it's way cooler than the conditions at the high pressure turbine. Jet engines fascinate me but the closest I have gotten to working on one was when I worked for two days at a private helicopter company close to where I live. I helped a LAME dismantle a turboshaft engine that they retrofitted into the Bell 47. Working on an F18 engine would be my idea of heaven! Regards, Mark

[@hillonwheels8838]

Yeah cooling may not be the best wording for the air. It is more for keeping the burning fuel from touching the metal internals. The bleed air that came from the engines would go through a device we called an air cycle machine (not sure if that is it's real name since it was not something I worked on) that could take the hot compressed air and make it come out with ice crystals the size of fine sand and that is what was used to cool the computers and air crew. How it did it I just don't know and should research it to feel less ignorant. What I did was when an engine had a part inside (usually a bearing) that had reached the maximum amount of hours of flight time the squadrons would send the engine to my shop. We would inspect all the turbine blades with a bore scope then take it all apart. The engine is set up to be like Lego's so 99 bolts and a chunk of the engine would come off. Unfortunately that was the extent I got to do and any major work that may need to be done to the module was done off site by a specialty group. For me it was like working on an assembly line doing the same thing everyday, fun but tedious.

[@splinky99]

I agree with the fellow who suggested the silicone tubing for the air flow……much safer! I’ve only run gas fueled foundries……do you tune the flame the same way with diesel,or does the soot content change the way the flame colors look? I can’t wait to find out.

[@Preso58]

I am keeping the silicone tube as a contingency if the annular cooling doesn't work out. From what Perry Merrit told me, you can tune the flame by changing the air volume alone. Regards, Mark

[@evil17]

@@Preso58My guess is that you should be able to tune the flame by either air or fuel pressure to give you a temperature range within the limits of your fuel & air delivery system, & possibly the chamber & exhaust sizes may have influences as well.

[@Warped65er]

Great vid., and look forward to the rest of the build. No doubt the additional BTU will speed up your melt times. Did you consider bringing the air in through a 45 deg. fitting and having the fuel line in the middle or center line of the air/fuel outlet of the 45 outlet?

[@Preso58]

I have seen that approach on quite a few DIY burners but I have another cunning plan to give me and adjustable fuel nozzle position and it's easier to implement if the fuel line enters close to the end of the burner. Regards, Mark

[@joansparky4439]

if you use thinner pipe the heat conduction will be much lower.. maybe you manage to find stainless steel pipe in that diameter even (Tonkin sells them per cm afaik), whose heat conductive ability is even lower than that of steel.

[@jessdigs]

If it get dialed in on Diesel you can most likely use waste motor oil also, maybe mix in some diesel or kerosene.

[@Preso58]

I am keen to try adding kerosene. Surprisingly, I don't have a supply of used motor oil. My car mechanic was one of my ex students and he "retired" in his mid 40's. He had 200 litre drums of the stuff and I could have gotten any amount of it. I guess I could approach a few auto service centres though. I am sure they would be happy to get rid of it. Regards, Mark

[@steveskouson9620]

Mark, when that blower fan is blocked, and speeds up, that is what jet engine Mechanics call compressor stall. (Plug the intake on your vacuum cleaner. It speeds up.) What is actually happening, the air coming into the fan, (compressor) is it just spins around, so very little power is used, and the motor speeds up. steve

[@Preso58]

Steve, I built my own small turbojet and I remember doing a lot of research on compressor stall. It's a fascinating topic and the results when an engine surges can be mighty exciting. The engine is still sitting in my display cupboard and I keep meaning to get it out and run it again. The last time I had a hot start and the nozzle guide vane ring distorted and it's rubbing on the turbine. Just enough to stop it from running. There is a fix but it means removing the bearings which tend to fall apart and the little ceramic balls go everywhere. It also means that it probably needs to be balanced again after reassembly. Life keeps getting in the way! Regards, Mark

[@d00dEEE]

I'd have been tempted to use silicone brake duct off a race car for the hose, rated for like 250 C (depending on type). Better than vinyl when the burner gets heat soaked.

[@Preso58]

I am considering the silicone as a contingency if the cooling air doesn't work out. Most of the auto accessory shops sell blue silicone adaptors for turbochargers. Regards, Mark

[@localele1]

On the spanner flats.The part you are cutting the flats on is round but the stock in the collet is just bar and would not be round which is where the error will come from.

[@Rustinox]

And if you want, you can mix some waste oil in the diesel. It will make it even cheaper to run.

[@Preso58]

I'm guessing that anything flammable would be fine. I do want to try adding some kerosene to see if it makes lighting easier. Regards, Mark

[@howardosborne8647]

It may also clog the atomiser jet very quickly. These atomiser nozzles are very intolerant of dirty fuel.

[@belyear]

Please check to see if the electric motor is shaded pole or has a starting capacitor. If it has a capacitor, start it at high voltage then regulate it down. If you don’t, the capacitor will fail prematurely.

[@Preso58]

There is no capacitor that I can see. It's only 370 watts so I am guessing it's a shaded pole motor. Regards, Mark

[@jessbakerjess]

great informative vids "preso!"..i've watched all the vids on this youve done and im having a go myself.something between yours and Swdweebs'....one thing i can say for your assurance;you mentioned in one vid about the pump perhaps not being upto the job.I have found out that they are geared up to pump 35Lph,so room for increasing burn capacity if need be and no worries i think on being upto it?

[@Preso58]

I think I got incredibly lucky with the parts I bought for the burner. I had just picked components that "looked about right" and it turns out that the fuel pump, the blower, the nozzle and the electronic drivers just work with a small overhead in terms of capacity. It took a while to find the correct sequence and settings to make it reliable and if I were a complete nerd, I would make something like a FADEC (Full Authority Digital Engine Control) as used for controlling small jet turbines used in model aircraft. They can control the fuel supply, the spark ignition, the starter motor and so on. If it were reprogrammed it could be used to start and control the blower capacity, light the burner, control the fuel flow and even sequence the shut down procedure. Regards, Mark

[@VladekR]

Is there any other name for nipple? Recently staff in the hardware shop (and customers) cry recently when I asked for the large one. 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@joell439]

👍👍😎👍👍

[@MICHAEL-ys3pu]

The problem with slowing the motor down is you are slowing down the cooling fan on the motor and it will over heat if run for long periods.

[@Preso58]

The motor is only 370 watts and I am not sure it even has a cooling fan. The air flow only needs to be low at the light up stage and after that it should run at full power so I am not anticipating any problems. Regards, Mark

[@mbs1234567]

Cut the bracket for the propane burner and add a hinge to it.

[@Preso58]

I have resolved that issue. I will keep the bracket as is and rotate the furnace body to clear it. I can tap a third hole in the body of the furnace so I can use both burners if I need to. Regards, Mark

[@patrickshaw7983]

Interesting project, looking forward to following along. How would kerosene work as a fuel do you think? I ask because I have a 1000 litre tank of the stuff which powers my home heating boiler.

[@Preso58]

Kerosene would be way easier to light than the diesel and I am guessing it would burn cleaner too. Unfortunately, it's more expensive to purchase here in Australia. There is little market for home heating fuel because of our relatively mild climate so getting bulk supply is hard (here in the sub tropics). Regards, Mark

[@patrickshaw7983]

@@Preso58 Kerosene is considerably cheaper here in UK than diesel, less tax to pay. just for interest my burner runs at 9 bar pump pressure with a 1.00/80 nozzle.

[@howardosborne8647]

Kerosene works just fine in pressure jet oil burners but it is a bit lower in calorific value than diesel fuel so requires a bit more fuel and air to achieve the same temperature. Kerosene is classed as 28 seconds viscosity heating fuel and diesel is classed as 35 seconds viscosity heating fuel oil

[@garethdavies3220]

Hi Mark , so would a “Riello” type kerosene /oil domestic central heating burner work for your foundry ? It appears to have many of the components ready made. I realise this is a way that others can make their own from scratch. Interesting project , I’ll be following your proggress , thanks.

[@Preso58]

I am not familiar with that type of burner. There are a couple of styles available on Ebay though. I just went with the one that Perry Merrit had used since it seemed to be successful for him. Regards, Mark

[@flyerphil7708]

Yes. That’s what I use.

[@howardosborne8647]

Yes it works very well indeed using a Riello type pressure jet/fan burner. they are very easy to adjust for fuel to air ratio as well.

[@howardosborne8647]

@@Preso58 Riello are a makers brand name of burner/fan units that fire domestic oil fired central heating boilers. With one of those units you get the air fan,the oil feed pump,the igniter and the burner tube and nozzle all in one package

[@irritantno9]

What is the tool holder called that you are using at 22:50 mark?

[@Preso58]

That's a Diamond Tool Holder. I have three of them and they are the most versatile tool for HSS hands down. I bought mine from Eccentric Engineering here in Australia. www.eccentricengineering.com.au/shop/The-Diamond-Tool-Holder-c46073009 They don't sponsor me and I paid full price for the tools I bought from them but they are excellent quality and reasonably priced. Regards, Mark

[@Frogmobile52]

I use LPG to start and then switch to BIODIESEL (or even clean waste oil + diesel+ 7%petrol)

[@Preso58]

I will be able to preheat with propane but I am hoping it won't be necessary. The atomised diesel lights readily and as long as you tune the fuel and air as it is heating it up it soon heats up the refractory which ensures that the fuel is burning off and not producing a lot of soot and smoke. Regards, Mark

[@e.scottdaugherty8291]

You are building a 30 degree offset on the feed pipe {retired electrician here}. Wouldn't a slot coming down from the hot end be easier to plug than a humongous hole in the side of the thingee?

[@Preso58]

Probably! It's one of those cases where the ideas evolve and what seems reasonable at the time may not be the ideal solution. We used to teach "design" when I was working in the secondary education system and the theory was that you could teach a student to follow a set series of steps to come up with a "good" design. It was all a bit of a nonsense though. "Good" design takes multiple iterations and plenty of failed attempts. We were expecting 17 year old kids to go through a single iteration, often with little knowledge or intrinsic experience of materials and processes. If I were making this burner over again there are quite a few changes I would make but it works (better than I expected) so I will leave it up to others to make the upgrades and tweaks. Regards, Mark

[@jackdawg4579]

be interesting to see how you go with the crappy high flashpoint diesel they sell here in Australia (over 40 celcius )

[@Preso58]

I am not a diesel guy. Although I have a diesel Kubota tractor. If it burns, it's good. Regards, Mark

[@howardosborne8647]

it will burn just fine in an atomised pressure jet burner. Should also be easy to ignite from cold in atomised forced air system.

[@paulbyerlee2529]

Mark where did you get your refractory cement in Australia?

[@Preso58]

I got it from a local pottery supply company at Kunda Park near Maroochydore. www.clayshed.com.au/ Most pottery supply companies will sell either Foseco or Pyrocrete refractory materials. Regards, Mark

[@paulbyerlee2529]

@@Preso58 I forgot about them. Been years since I've lived on the sunny coast. I will have to go for a drive.

[@rufustoad1]

Hi Mark, well I have stolen your idea and finally finished my furnace so thank you:) I have some cracking in my refractory so I think I poured it a bit wet. I have a couple questions, A) do you use a riser inside yours to lift the crucible a bit higher? B) Have you attempted iron yet? I am looking for temps and what the best mix is for casting iron?

[@Preso58]

I am guessing you could patch the cracks with some fire clay? I do have a small riser in the bottom of my furnace. It was made from some left over refractory mix. I just poured it into the bottom of a 5 litre plastic bucket. It's about an inch thick and surprisingly, it has never shown any signs of cracking or burning. I have not tried iron yet. My refractory is not rated for that temperature. I could probably get away with it for a while but eventually it would start to deteriorate. If I ever replace the refractory I will get the higher temperature mix. Regards, Mark

[@tbcarleton]

It's a good thing you've got a whole ass machine shop, otherwise you'd have to use threaded nipples and a coupling 😅

[@Preso58]

Well, I don't own a surface grinder or a metal shaper, or a TIG welder but I get by. In my view, a milling machine, a metal shaper and a surface grinder are like the holy trinity of machine shop tools. 😁 Regards, Mark

[@mathewritchie]

Owe?If there is no video then it never happened.😇

[@bmalovic]

Why 6 sides on that adapter at 28:xx ? 2 flats are just enough for a spanner. And you put it on the thinnest arrea of the part (on the thread). You can made that flats on the arrea behind that thread that is much stronger. Not that this will not work..low pressure ec... just... if you can make it stronger.. why not?

[@Preso58]

6 looks nice! It's probably 50 times stronger than it needs to be. Regards, Mark

[@bmalovic]

@@Preso58 You should never underestimate "death wish" of a part 😄 It must be something in the parts genom, they just like to be broken. Joking of course... It's just my mindset, that I always seek for the better solution, and if there is any chance... I will grab it. No metter how unimportant part is.. 🙃

[@v8Mercury]

I bet it will run on used engine oil after preheated using diesel.

[@howardosborne8647]

If you try running old engine oil through one of these cone atomiser nozzles it will clog it up very quickly. These type of burner nozzles require a clean fuel source free from any dirt.

[@v8Mercury]

@@howardosborne8647 that's too bad. My only experience was with a venture style sprayer using compressed air.

[@Preso58]

I am considering adding kerosene to the diesel fuel but I have seen some awfully sludgy waste motor oil. I think that most guys that use waste oil preheat it to reduce the viscosity and they generally use compressed air to atomise the fuel. I think the operating principal is a bit like the old school perfume sprayer. Regards, Mark

[@mrgreenswelding2853]

Try just changing your burner to a 25mm air forced. That's what I made and it heats to 1600degrees Celsius.

[@austinmorris1693]

hello mark just a heads up multiple adverts on this video

[@Preso58]

I know that KZbin is including advertising even though I don't monetise any of my videos and I haven't agreed to any partnership programmes. It seems to be out of my hands. Hopefully they are mercifully short ads! Regards, Mark

[@zumbazumba1]

Has anyone tried using car injectors with a bosch pump(thats how people call it in my country ,car injector pump) connected to a electric motor?

[@Preso58]

I did check today on Ebay for a high pressure pump since I am starting to think that my little Yamaha pump won't be up to the task and there were lots of aftermarket fuel injector pumps. I have been offered a proper mains voltage high pressure pump though and I will take up that offer if what I have doesn't work. I should know by the end of the week. Regards, Mark

[@zumbazumba1]

@@Preso58 To help you out a little bit ,every atomizing nozzle should have pressure rating at which it operates,as long as pump meets that pressure you are fine. Unless you want to change a nozzle size for higher volume of fuel.Then a stronger pump is better choice but then you need to put flow valve to decrease pressure.

[@peterpocock9062]

Cunning Plans are borne out of experience!😅

[@ryelor123]

Why does no one use gasoline for a furnace?

[@Preso58]

Probably because of the risk of vapour explosions. Diesel fuel is much safer in that respect. The flash point is lower so the fumes won't spontaneously ignite. Regards, Mark

[@paulbyerlee2529]

Is there a spam filter going on because I tried to post the same comment 3 times and it disappears when refreshed

[@Preso58]

Paul, I just checked my comments that were held for review and anything with an external link goes there. I don't filter any of my comments, the haters get a fair say too😁 Not sure why you are having problems though. This one got through though. Regards, Mark

[@dieSpinnt]

Your blower motor is clearly an AC motor. The speed of three-phase asynchronous motors (here in single-phase configuration, with a rotating field generated by capacitors) is not determined by the voltage[1], but by the speed of the rotating field, i.e. the mains frequency. The device you have may work with purely ohmic consumers, such as light bulbs or heating elements, but not with such a motor. It'll probably shorten its lifetime or just break very fast. You need a frequency converter to control the speed. You english folk call that a Variable-frequency drive, a VFD. Greetings from Germany, great project and thank you for the entertaining and also educating content, Mark!:) Subscribed! [1] It may seem like it controls the speed, but you are operating this poor motor completely out of spec ... as you have correctly noticed with the odd behavior of unintentionally speeding up. For further reading: Wikipedia on "Induction motor" (see the "Speed control" section and the diagrams about speed-torque characteristics) with the specialized "Squirrel-cage rotor". And the mentioned "Variable-frequency drive". I wish you much success!:)

[@dieSpinnt]

Your controller is most likely a "Phase-fired control" (PFC) (see Wikipedia for the curves and how it works in detail). It is a very simple to build device. F.e. with the main components: A potentiometer to control the angle, a DIAC to fire at that angle and a TRIAC to switch the consumer current. The resulting characteristics is that the sine wave of the AC voltage will be (on the horizontal time axis) cut from 0%-100% (ideal values!). The area under the cut sine-wave (the effective Voltage, RMS) will result in that voltage regulating behavior.

[@onn1498]

Video interrupted by Ads, which is unacceptable. Hope it is just a fluke

[@Preso58]

Several people have reported this which is annoying since I don't monetise any of my videos and I didn't agree to having KZbin provide ads in my videos. It's probably the thin end of the wedge! Grrrr! Regards, Mark

[@onn1498]

Hi Mark. Thank you for the response and all your great videos. I understand it not to be your choice and hope this is not how it will be. If so it will be the end of KZbin for me