Pressure Turning

[@tinman5322]

Wow sir, I completed my apprenticeship in '90, done everything from medical valves to battleship prop shafts in a variety of shops and had never seen nor heard of this. Now a simple hobbyist with a fairly complete home shop, I will certainly use pressure turning when the opportunity arises. Seems like smaller diameter pieces wouldn't even induce much terror and yes what a time saver. Thanks!!

[@robertburns2415]

Over the 40-plus years I've been a machinist I've done a fair amount of this I think handling Dynamite is safer.

[@joepie221]

I got a piece that was sheared to more of a rectangle than a square once. Right at the end of this operation, the material broke through and broke off. It came off in a string of 4 curved triangles with razor sharp radiused inner surfaces and needle sharp points connected by a remnant burr you could shave with. It was about 2 feet long and 1/8" thick. It was no doubt the most potentially damaging swarf I've ever seen ejected from a machine ever.

[@robertburns2415]

@@joepie221 my first experience with this was a piece of plexiglass that was 12 in in diameter and about a quarter of an inch thick. In addition to being brittle it wasn't uniform in thickness and I did not know this until I started to cut it about 400 RPM. The part ended up melting in front of the tool and the tool quit cutting. The outside diameter the part proceeded to explode in all directions and a moment later the part completely cracked and came out of the machine in three pieces. Do not turn plexiglass this way.

[@pacman10182]

it is, it's actually quite hard to set off dynamite by accident ask me how I know

[@stetsoncase7970]

instaBlaster.

[@MaturePatriot]

Slow, and steady, wins the race. Nice video.

[@BillyTpower]

Great demo Joe, this looks like an operation for professionals only

[@WrenagadeWorkshop]

Great video, I can see how useful this would be for turning thin walled parts that a chuck might warp in order to grip it as well. It's actually quite amazing what you can do friction and it continually surprises me how diverse it's applications are becoming. To get a better idea of how strong friction can be, a quick an easy experiment one can do at home is to take two books of about 100 pages each and interleave each page as far into each other as you can all the way through both books. Once that's done, see if you can pull them appart by the spines. JSYK, the correct term for a throwing star is shuriken and hails from Japan ;) Anyhoo, I love all the sound advice, techniques, tips and tricks you empart, I value it all highly as a relatively new and eager home shop machinist. keep up the awesome work my man, I'm loving every minute of it :)

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Thats why I do it.

[@worthdoss8043]

Best and safest to get someone else to do this while you have a sandwich in another room.

[@joepie221]

Amen brother.

[@pierresgarage2687]

Also my favrite method with fine emery cloth, as long as I stand away from the chuck I'm fine...

[@joepie221]

You have to pay attention with this one. Risky for sure.

[@saytencushman3758]

yes this is the video i think you meant. i didnt have a name for this operation but pressure turning sounds good. i have done this a lot on the lathe. i always need a thin round circle andhad no idea on how to achieve it and then it donged on me make a samitch of metal with my cheese in the middle great video

[@richardjimenez7394]

Thanks joe

[@ThisOldTony]

nice!

[@Nograc_]

This Old Tony Tony!!!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for stopping by.

[@acat6000]

I was wearing my safety glasses through the screen.

[@joepie221]

Just sit to the side and watch. :)

[@mynewyoutubehandle]

Screw that, superglue arbour all the way!

[@henrikostling804]

Hi Joe, I tried this as an experiment at work today. My workshop foreman was pissed beyond all repair but when I showed him the results he was very satisfied and grateful to learn a new technique. Thank you.

[@joepie221]

Glad it worked for you.

[@jaspermcconnell6417]

I moved to the side of my computer when you were cutting with the last method. :-)

[@joepie221]

Good idea.

[@theoldbigmoose]

First time I put on safety squints when watching a machining video!

[@longshot789]

15:20 Safety Squints Fully Engaged

[@joepie221]

I have relied on those many times over the years. Great comment.

[@Wannabe_Maker]

Nice @aVe reference

[@ammunreh738]

glue is the way to go ...

[@BedsitBob]

For the Trepanning, I think I'd probably build a plywood arch over the chuck area (to catch any flying pieces), start in automatic feed, then retreat to the far end of the workshop, until the cut has been completed.

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

In having my students do this over the years I have also discovered if you use a tool bit with a 45 degree lead angle rather than a rather abrupt 90 degree lead, that you reduced cutting pressure on the work piece dramatically. And as Joe points out, anything you can do to help out in this type of operation is to your benefit. This is the same thing that takes place in face milling when you use a face mill (insert style) with a 45 degree lead angle vs. A face mill with a 90 degree or square shoulder. If you are trying this for the first time I would recommend you bandsaw the rough circle out.

[@joepie221]

Be careful putting angles on the nose of your tool. An 1/8 inch wide 45 degree nose tool has more surface contact than a blunt 90. If I understand you correctly, the part would have a large sharp burr on it once the corners fall away.

[@kniefi]

or on a mill you could use a vacuum table, so the mill could easily cutout the desired shape in very little time. great video nontheless

[@joepie221]

You could do this many ways.

[@danielthyme8609]

Nice Joe, i'm a french Canadian and i spent 40 years in machine shop and it went by like a flash i am now retired. I used this setup all the time but to center my piece i just put a little pressure on it and centered it using a piece of wood in the tool holder and manually turning the chuck to rub on the piece of wood and it would center very precisely when i needed precision suppose i had only like .010-.050 to take off on the already round part. Thanks a million Joe you give me nostalgia....have a nice day!

[@joepie221]

thank you. Same to you.

[@andrewwilson8317]

I had to make a batch of discs for an order. They were trepanned out of rough cut octagons of sheet metal. Just the squares with the four corner excesses chopped off. The discs were secured to a face plate that was modified to allow vacuum to hold them in place. Also used a similar pressure block like you did but had a layer of rubber sheet 1/8" bonded too it. The vacuum chuck idea came from my woodworking, wood turners use this technique quite often and some bigger wood lathes like those by Jet have a built in vacuum chuck system. Great work mate.

[@merlinvestibule]

I'm guessing you used a template to mark the circle on the material. If there was a hole in the center of that template, the same size as your puck, you could also mark a circle for the puck to line up on, greatly speeding up the machine set up. Probably wouldn't matter if you're only doing 3, but if you're doing 300...

[@bjevets]

Man, thanks for sharing your skills. I watch all your videos and always get something new from them, and I have been machining for 42 years!

[@KabulRichie]

Nice video, Joe. I used to do that in the same way. We manufactured farewell gifts out of a brass plate combined on a wooden blazon. We high-gloss polished the brass and the electricians used their special tools to etch our coat of arms into the brass plate.... That was a great time back in the days in the German Air Force. P.S. I preferred the second option. To lazy to spent to much time at the band saw ;-)

[@butre.]

I find that a healthy pucker keeps you safer on the lathe in general, but this particular operation requires a sphincter clenched so tight it makes your hemorrhoids scream.

[@joepie221]

Fart and dogs will bark 3 blocks away.

[@jamesgcrawford]

I am watching on my phone and pulled it further away from me when you started making the scary cut...

[@josephcitizen4195]

I watched on my 22" monitor and turned my head sideways, lol. I'd be farming these pieces out to a shop to water jet. a couple of days turn around is worth my face. Great video though, I love this stuff.

[@stephanmantler]

Holy crap that looks to me like juggling loaded firearms. Thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Cocked and loaded.

[@rescobar8572]

Sorry for the loss of your friend. This was a great tribute to your friend as his memory will live on through this video.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. He was a good guy.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Thank you for this lesson, especially your SAFETY WARNINGS. All your videos are enlightening and interesting.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@wimwiddershins]

Scary as hell, but expertly demonstrated. Thank you Sir.

[@EVguru]

Really simple tip. When you're marking your stock out, mark driver pad diameter too.

[@DoctorRed79]

Hey Joe. Seeing your channel for the first time. Former (90%... ish) manual machinist and enjoy seeing a skilled tradesman at work. Almost miss the smell of cutting oil and dykem... almost. Legitimate question. Is there a reason you used a relatively wide trepanning (plunging) tool for the OD on the square stock? And for all of the frightened non-machinists... This is not a super safe cut, but it's a fast way to get a part out the door. Speed in turn around on jobs is the name of the game. If you ever really want your pucker factor upgraded, watch an old VTL machine with some stringy material cuts. Keep making those 6's and 9's for the rest of us, you definitely have a new subscriber.

[@joepie221]

The ideal tool for this operation would have the cutting profile on the outside of the tool. That would allow for a thinner grind. With the tip positioned to the inside, ( like this one ) the underside relief weakens the tool considerably if the top is too narrow. Plus the material was soft enough to allow for a wider tool.

[@DoctorRed79]

Joe Pieczynski That makes sense. I appreciate the response. Hope you have a great week.

[@scottburrous2375]

Meant to tell you, Joe, you are an eloquent speaker with excellent diction and meter. My Mom likes listening to you but she hasn't a clue what you are talking about. I 'translate'. I'm can't think that anyone with any machining ability has a difficult time with following your directions. The whiteboard and shop demo are an excellent combination. My brother purchased my old 1754 Standard Modern lathe and is experimenting. He's never cut a thread in his life! I sent him a link to you and told him to learn your method. He's subscribed!

[@joepie221]

Thank you for your comment and for sending your brother my way. Much appreciated. Tell your Mom thanks and hello from Austin Texas for me!

[@scottburrous2375]

Joe Pieczynski: Last nite I got a message from my brother about lathe threading said, "I did it!, just like Joe!!" I'm trying to teach him outside the traditional box and you're helping. He's 1200 miles away and you're helping me to teach and keep him safe. Thanks.

[@ypaulbrown]

We did pressure turning on 28" diameter 100 lb manhole covers....crazy what you can do sometimes... thanks Joe Pie

[@joepie221]

Be safe. Thats a lot of weight.

[@russellcresser5826]

Most excellent. Used the technique for years. Brilliant idea with the paper if it does slip the piece will not get scratched or welded to the stock. Thanks for posting that . I see so much rubbish on KZbin is good to see something one can respect.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@Mogsey1845]

Russell Cresser and

[@SolidRockMachineShopInc]

Hi Joe, Good timing Joe. Scary videos right before Halloween. Steve

[@criticallook1352]

*Thanks Joe!* METHOD #2 IMPROVEMENT Takes *pressure* off getting injured. *IDEA #1* For safety's sake - I can't see why you couldn't make a dedicated square *_backplate,_* that has holes, _starting at each corner,_ drilling four straight lines toward the center, at half inch intervals. Make the square *_backplate_* at the maximum size, _that you can get away with,_ for your particular lathe. This will allow you to turn a variety of workpiece sizes. Square the workpiece with the *_backplate,_* then clamp together. Drill a minimum of two holes on each corner of the workpiece, so the holes line up with holes in the *_backplate._* Use the *_backplate_* as a drill guide, or make a dedicated drill guide. Secure the workpiece to the *_backplate_* using eight nuts, bolts; and Loctite® - then remove clamps. This will allow a cut to be made all the way through the workpiece - virtually preventing you from being impaled by an injurious flying Ninja Shuriken. *IDEA #2* EASY CENTER ALIGNMENT Do this when not using a dedicated *_backplate._* Drill a small hole all the way through the center of the *_driver puck._* Prior to pressing the workpiece against the faced off *_backplate,_* mark the center of the workpiece with pencil, or Sharpie® marker. Align the hole of the *_driver puck_* with the center marking which has been drawn onto the workpiece. Hold the *_driver puck_* firmly as you mark its circumference onto the workpiece. Use this circle to center align the workpiece to the *_driver puck,_* thus virtually eliminating having to eyeball the concentricity of the part, then having to fidget with aligning it multiple times. : - edit - fixed typos add beginning comments :

[@joepie221]

Securing those loose corners is a fantastic idea.

[@dickmick5517]

Although this is a dangerous job it not not outside the job scope of many machinists. Turning an impeller with interrupted cuts and a midrib of other procedures are all dangerous. Just think about standing close to a unguarded coupling while it is running. That is what machinist do every day. Training and situation awareness is a job requirement. Like Joe said use the first procedure and stay safe everyone.

[@tony35842]

I use spray glue on the driver. I've also used spray glue on a back plate when removing the pattern from chequer plate without using the tailstock. It works extremely well as long as the part stays cool.

[@bcbloc02]

I have always called it friction turning and it sure is a handy technique for a lot of jobs.

[@larrysperling8801]

another great video joe . my ahole was puckered watching you trepan that piece. i know it would involve some cleanup, but wouldn't super glue be a much safer alternative and also put this operation within the realm of less rigid machines?

[@joepie221]

It sure would. The time between parts may be unacceptable in a job shop environment, but just be sure the glue is set well and still use a driver puck.

[@juangutierrez7760]

I don't know what I'm doing here but I like it!

[@johntenhave1]

thank you for the demo. knowledge is always valuable, particularly when you can gain it without harm to your self. Thanks for the ongoing education.

[@joepie221]

Avoiding injury is always on top of my list.

[@brianermelin5658]

Sir I have to congratulate you on your video you are concise to the point and informative no BS no aaaaaaahs every third word. Thanx.

[@joepie221]

I appreciate the comment. thanks.

[@kirkyd123]

Wow! My mom is never going to let me play at your house :) Seriously though, nice job!

[@joepie221]

Smart mom.

[@eamonnquinn9585]

Part 1 - good , Part 2 - not so sure,. If you are going to try this - shear off the corners on a guillotine - at least to an octagon-

[@joepie221]

Certainly the better option is to remove those corners.

[@harryho9097]

That looks dangerous. how about glue the plate on a cylinder then use a heat gun to melt the glue after turning.

[@sumkunt0r]

If you glue the plate to the cylinder takes more time, using a paper clutch makes the operation fast as you don't need to use a release agent to remove it. It is however dangerous but then all engineering machines can be dangerous. Can you suggest how to machine 1/8" aluminium circles to an accuracy of .002"as quick as that?

[@Gravattack]

I'm going to pass on this one. At least if I ever really need to do it in future I know the right way now

[@Hirudin]

Very cool video! Phew, that's nuts! I'm happy to report that I definitely passed the "am I human?" test.

[@steven4601]

great method for making polycarbonate lids / pressure vessels.

[@joepie221]

And the paper cover on the poly is its own traction paper.

[@incompleteacceptance5139]

Awesome vid! My addition, I attached .030 EPDM roofing rubber to the back plate and my puck. Never had any issues. I also mark where my center was on the material when I drew my circle with a protractor. When I initially place the material against the back plate, I reference my center mark with the live center point. I suppose I could draw an additional circle that would be the same size as the puck for easy aligning... Finally, I clip off the corners around the perimeter with the shear. Thank you for spending time to make your informative videos!

[@fuzzymachinist]

Nice. You'd be impressed with a vacuum chuck on your lathe for work like that. It was on a CNC but the custom setup I tested trepanned no problem and then held .1 doc at .006ipr facing on a 14" sq alum plate. I don't know if there's anything commercial out there, yet, boss saw something somewhere and wanted to try it so I made it happen.

[@aussiemanlyman2138]

Hi joe, nice job. I've been machining since I was a kid, what you did I have done, and seen done plenty of times. As with any job, there are times when you hold your breathe especially while parting off large parts. We have a hydraulic copy lathe for machining the OD of rollers for hot steel mills, we grip them between a stepped mandrel in the chuck and a stepped puck in the tail stock. We use a pressure centre, it has a large spring inside the live centre and a resistance gauge to show how much pressure has been applied by the tailstock. The pressure live centre is a store brought item, worth you looking into if your doing a lot of this stuff, if the tailstock moves a fraction, the spring still holds some pressure, and the gauge shows you straight away. Keep up the information on your channel, don't listen to the haters.

[@theonlyalan731]

When I do this type of turning, I attached the plate or sheet metal to the driving plate with double-sided tape. Then I apply the pressure with the tailstock. Never had an issue doing it that way and it seems as though you would need less pressure to keep the part from flying off. And you generally wouldn't be doing enough machining to build up enough heat to break it loose from the tape.

[@jossfitzsimons]

I use an MDF face plate and use double sided sticky tape between it and metal. This allows me to cutvinto the wood. I also use more tape if adding extra discs for stacking. Slow speed..and gentle advance.

[@roberthiggins1142]

I have a project coming up & on the way home from work tonight i thought how can make a disc that doesn't have a hole in it? Well googled it & you were there with a solution to my dilemma you always seam to have a solution that just seams to work with the minimal of equipment but the maximum of results. Thank you Joe you are such a wealth of knowledge.

[@FrancisoDoncona]

I am confused, I work in the medical field so my machining is one of my hobbies. I am an admitted amateur at best but why not double stick tape and goof off to remove it in place of paper? I studied metal spinning videos and this is the same starting point. Next step is to immediately pull metal over the form to lock it in place.So this is easier than cutting blanks with snips but tape is cheap.

[@thatguythatdoesstuff7448]

Very rarely, KZbin suggestions do work. Glad I found your channel sir. Thanks for sharing.

[@idahopsycho1261]

Great video Joe! Very informative. I have no idea who the haters are giving the thumbs down, but please ignore them and keep up the fantastic work.

[@camarillojohn]

Great " how to " video, there will always be some nay sayers no matter what, the smart ones will learn from this It's nice to have a friend like you who keeps the memory of a buddy alive. John

[@jeremytenorio3099]

Nice technique, never used paper in between. I work in a shop with mainly CNC, Foreman gave me a piece of 321, 3/8 round and said make these three pins and motioned to the small mazatrol lathe next to me. Two minutes later I was putting the collet chuck on the ONE manual lathe that we have, the Foreman came over and asked what I was doing. When u told him he was like, OK if you think you can hold two tenths with this. I responded with 'It turns things round don't it?' Really, bore jaws, set tools and write a program for three pins. Sad really. Took ten minutes on a manual and would have taken twice as long to do on CNC.

[@dougb3152]

Jeremy Tenorio sorry bud unless you polished it in and checked it with indicating mic's at the least. No you didn't hold "2 tenths" on a manual lathe.

[@joepie221]

I've done it a thousand times. You have to be aware of the heat of the part and use the correct measuring device, but many manual lathes can do it.

[@wesleyashley99]

If your tailstock is not as strong as a vice this should not be attempted. If there are any variations in the thickness or flatness of the workpiece you may get uneven grip. I would suggest supergluing a flat rubber ring on each pressure plate. The rings should be about 1 inch different in diameter to suppress vibration and between 1/2" and 3/4" wide for about 4 to 5" diameter good for cutting up to 12" diameter. Use 1/16 to 1/8 thick rubber. This will conform to any variations in material surface and give maximum grip with no need for paper or Emery cloth. Larger diameter cuts will need larger pressure plates and rings. Always feed by hand because if the tip breaks or gets dull it will be more likely to throw the part out if its power fed. I've been a manual machinist for 20 years and finding the safest most productive way to do dangerous jobs is what I do. Still many are better than me. Remember safety precautions only mitigate risk they don't eliminate it. Work carefully at your own risk.

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

Thanks for sharing Joe. I could have used this 3 days ago, but now I'll know for next time!

[@joblogs3538]

I read slow dude, please leave the captions on longer than you think. Just to be sure, twice to three times!

[@randyhooks1214]

I have one suggestion for you. Try using 3/4" phenolic material. Turn chucking surface on phenolic . mount in lathe and skim face of phenolic to remove slick surface. Thus will give you a great gripping surface and if your part spins, it will not gall your finished part. I used to make fixtures for punching flared holes that required od turning the entire length of part with no place to chuck. Its a good stable set up. I've turned up to 15 lb parts. Definately dangerous like you said but a Chuck shield helps keep your butt from clinching shut!! BTW. Never heard the term pressure turning. I just called it friction drive. Now I know right name.

[@joepie221]

I have some LE phenolic laying around. I may have to try that. Thanks.

[@RumpLeINtiLINsKinnIN]

Yet another great video, Joe. But trepanning that freaked me the heck out! Thanks for sharing.

[@rubarb0406]

Joe, I appreciate your emphasis on safety! And, I appreciate your attention to detail.

[@bpark10001]

When centering the part, use a small hammer tapping on the edge rather then manually pushing. Not only is it easier to make small adjustments, it does not tend to off-center the tailstock end. If work can have hole in center, use center drill to make cone-hole in work, and put tailstock center directly into that. You can turn thicker pieces this way, safely, and centering is automatic. To improve traction, turn a raised rim on the headstock end at its outside edge. If you drill hole small through work, and center drill it on both sides, you can flip work over for access to both sides.

[@joepie221]

Pressure turning a thicker solid part is OK with a live center and centerdrilled hole, but for thinner material, a centerdrilled hole driver will distort the part and lead to it slipping. I don't endorse that method. Try to have as large of an od on your driver and locators as possible. It helps to deliver more surface contact.

[@outputcoupler7819]

Vacuum chuck + CNC mill, problem solved.

[@kmyerslp85]

Output Coupler or just some super glue. Heat breaks the bond. Acetone removes it.

[@gabbermaikel]

this guy has such great tips and shows so much. I think its really nice that a pro machinist like him is willing to share his way of doing things, and also to "teach" other people thing trough the internet. It probably cotst him some valueable time, but i havent come across a more skilled machinist on youtube yet that is sharing so much information.

[@joepie221]

Thats a great compliment. Thank you very much.

[@joepie221]

Wow. Thanks for that. These videos can be time consuming, but its nice to know they are helping.

[@mpetersen6]

One thing on centering your parts. You already used a compass or trammel to layout the OD. layout a second circle that matches you outer pressure plate OD. Then use either two sided tape or spray adhesive to apply your gripping material to the pressure plates. And I agree that turning the square material can be unnerving at times. Plus feed with the compound set parallel to the ways. You have a lot more control on the feed with the compound than with the apron hand wheel

[@xboxoxzx]

Use a knurl set low on the tool post to center your blank ;). Make shift roller bearing.

[@eduardorosales1959]

Your friend De Carlo is looking upon you. Prayers for his family and yours.

[@MostlyPeacefulWACO]

No way would I do that without a few drops of superglue on the back plate.

[@JohnSmith-tw3rw]

Why didn't you draw 2 lines across the corners corners, then draw a circle equal in size to you center block so you could take the guess work out of lining it up?

[@madjack956]

I know I'm late to the party. That's pretty hairy Joe. I have learned several things from you. I have now learned I will never try this. I am in awe of your skill.

[@RANDALLOLOGY]

Wow. That second procedure made me nervous just thinking about those parts flying across the room. I built a attachment for my 4" grinder to attach to my lathe to take off the square corners before I turn a part. It takes a couple of minutes to get those sharp corners off, but I feel better afterwards when I machine the part.

[@krazziee2000]

I was nervous on that one ...nicely done, thanks for the video.. and lesson.

[@TadTadd]

What are the pros/cons of doing this way vs. the superglue approach that Clickspring often uses? Not sure I'd have the courage to do this on my baby 9x20 lathe. If I needed a big circle, I'd probably bandsaw and belt-sand the part to size and suffer with the total lack of precision.

[@professorred]

Tad Harrison time constraints. That is an awesome way if you are doing a few, but, doing hundreds or thousands of parts, gluing, heating, and cleaning the chuck between parts will take way too long unless you have a few people to do other steps with lots of glue chucks.

[@joepie221]

True.

[@professorred]

Joe Pieczynski my suggestion would be to spray adhere your paper/super fine sandpaper material to the drive and tail stock surfaces so there is less messing around. Just a thought.

[@marshalllhiepler]

Am I the only viewer that thought he should place a guard between the workpiece and operator? It would seem far less dangerous if there was a metal shield to contain flying razors.

[@joepie221]

A guard would be a good addition, but keeping that rear burr as one piece is a must.

[@Kolokotrones]

Is it worthwhile to use loc-tite or crazy glue?

[@joepie221]

For one piece, sure. Just don't get the part hot or the glue may release.

[@JonesAndGriesmann]

Love it please don't stop showing us dangerous lathe tricks

[@billknight7331]

Looks like a metal spinning setup only with thicker material.

[@233kosta]

Next up - I'll be doing something similar with a 1/2" thick plate of AR500 and a whoooole lot of cuntstein targlide :D What could possibly go wrong...

[@starastronomer]

You have a bigger pair than me :)

[@user-jt3nf7in5w]

Guy has never heard of superglue... Comes back apart with heat

[@animalmother556x45]

J I have watched enough Click Spring videos to know that...and I have never machined anything in my life.

[@jeremytenorio3099]

First though as well.

[@none9810]

As always, yet another informative and well-thought out video, thank you so very much! Guys like yourself, This Old Tony, and Abom 79 are setting the standard for all us fledgling hobbyists out there who might be struggling with the math, order of operations, and other machining issues. I have heard of pressure-turning, but the first time I've seen it, and it looks like a viable option when my fly cutter just simply won't make the larger diameters on flat, thin stock. Thanks again and NEVER stop preaching safety and respect for running equipment! (60 year old and still have all my fingers....)

[@jeffbeck6501]

Here's the solution. Hold the part still. Rotate the cutter. The lathe is backwards for this job. Check out this death machine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXrKXqyuhdeGeZI

[@alanbradley3196]

Wow ! Thats dangerous...but cool ! Theres always a solution to the problem.. joe your an inspiration..

[@maxcnc777]

I've been doing this for years.. the sand paper backing is a good idea. I usually spray on some 3M 77. I would never do this with the corners. It's just not worth the risk.

[@joepie221]

I had to cut a few hundred of these out of 316 stainless once. Just about the same size. Started out on the bandsaw and evolved to trepanning with corners. It is truly dangerous with the corners still on.

[@radensb]

May be a dumb question, but why not mount the cutter upside down and run the machine in reverse? Still pretty dangerous cut, but at least then you would have material rotating away from you and if it did come lose, it would hit the back panel or the ways instead of flying at your face, right?

[@stuartsurkitt2585]

yet another great lesson Joe . very informative.

[@johnspargo5876]

Thanks Joe -cool video. I suppose we could say "Joe Pie master of the one jaw chuck!" Regards John Spargo in Cape Town

[@joepie221]

Jaws, I dont need jaws....

[@stevewilliams2498]

Joe. Fantastic tutorial .. as always. Can I ask on behalf of us slow oldies that you leave your written comments on screen a little longer please. Steve.

[@EricBrummer]

Your option is probably better for everyone but I wanted to make sure you know you can slow youtube videos down in the settings option.

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Bollocks to doing the second one at all, standing to the side or across the room isn't gonna stop my ring piece clenching up tight. If one of them corners come off and hit a jaw, it gonna be bang crash clatter clatter and blood everywhere.

[@joepie221]

The worst case scenario is when 3 of the 4 edges break off, stay attached as a continuous string, and stay spinning at full RPM. Its the weed wacker from hell.

[@ellieprice3396]

Thanks for sharing this useful operation with us. A second circle slightly larger than the diameter of the pressure disk would help to locate the larger disc on center.

[@joepie221]

If you back plate was large enough, a series of short dowel pins could be added as locators and drivers for the various blanks you use regularly. It would help, but ( downside) the burr / cutoffs would come towards the tool and not the chuck.

[@HolzMichel]

say Joe, would double sided tape work as a clutch medium between the work and the discs??

[@joepie221]

I would suggest the thin kind as opposed to the foam kind, but yes, it would work well. You can try dental floss to cut the part off afterwards.

[@mikenixon9164]

Nice job

[@ianmcnulty3279]

Hi Joe, Sincere sympathy and condolences on the passing of your friend Joe DeCarlo . You can take some comfort in the knowledge that he had a great friend in you. PS Well done on your video of the "o" ring groove in stainless steel. Keep up the good work. Regards Ian

[@joepie221]

Thank you. Joe was a good friend. It was too soon.

[@fredfarnackle5455]

Excellent video, thank you.