Prevent Flooding Basement with a Stand Pipe - Adaptor, Drain, Plug

Stand pipes can be sealed into a floor drain with an expanding rubber bushing, or a threaded steel coupling in the pipe.
A standpipe can prevent a flooded basement. The problems requiring standpipes are poor drainage around the house and old drain tiles, that may now be filled with clay. These may be forcing ground water through the block walls or floors. The proper solution requires examining all the information.
A standpipe is an open-ended pipe inserted in a floor drain. It must be watertight so any water rising up in that drain rises in the pipe, not out on the floor. They were popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s when the county drain system could not handle all the storm water. Instead of flooding, those who had standpipes in their drains bought some time before they would flood.
There are different ways to seal a standpipe into a floor drain. They include expanding rubber bushings, and leading-in a threaded steel coupling and screwing a pipe into it; the 1950’s method.
Note: Older homes in our floodplain that do not have a three-inch opening in the floor drain could already have a coupling leaded-in. You will swear there aren’t any threads in the coupling, but five minutes with a pipe tap and you will see. It will help to measure the hole first to see if the plumber leaded-in a 1 1/2″ coupling or 2″.
The danger from using a standpipe is when it is too tall or capped. For most four-inch thick basement floors, (our 1950’s neighborhood) an 18″ standpipe is safe. For local information, contact your city building department for feedback on your area’s success with different sizes. A capped drain or standpipe over 36 inches tall can hold back so much water that your floor can buckle, crack and then leak. Remember, you own a house, not a boat.
The real cure for your problem is to eliminate the source of the water. That wet corner in your basement could have a missing downspout, a low flowerbed or a patio pitched towards the house. Fix that first. There is no sense in dealing with water that should be draining away from the house. This is why I am not in favor of inside drain systems. Because they deal with water flowing around your footings and through your walls that should not be getting there in the first place.
Finally, check out the main sewer drain from the house to the city sewer line. If you have a medium to large tree in the front yard you could have roots. Roots clogging your sewer drain to the city will cause water in the basement during a heavy rain. A standpipe will only delay and camouflage a clogged sewer main.

[@BigMoney23223]

I love this man, I’ve been going to him since elementary school, we’re so lucky to have him in out neighborhood. Gilbert’s is the very first place I go whenever I need anything. Love you Blair

[@dumpsterdivingpowercouplel8807]

Wow. I just happened to run across your video. Im right near st. Clair shores and OMG you have the info i need for larger basement drains. Thank you. My basement floods from the city sewer. Its a horrible pain.

[@blancaw6280]

Very interesting! Thanks for the detailed explanation. We have the same system in Chicago. Both of my grandmothers had houses built around the same time (1958) and both always worried about flooding but for two different reasons. One had in floor plumbing and used a stand pipe method but had to be home when the storm was happening or else the basement would flood with sewer water. One time it was so bad the whole street was underwater and her basement was up to the rafters of the basement with water because she wasn't home to put in the stand pipe. My other grandmother had overhead plumbing. She never had to worry about sewer water backing up but she lived in constant fear of power outages because once the power went out the sump pump would fill with water and overflow and flood the basement. I'ts always something I guess. I now own her house with the overhead plumbing and installed battery back up with an additional pump. When the power fails now that kicks on and I'm good for many hours or even days depending on how much water is being pumped out. Basements are great to have but they are always a worry too.

[@MrHardware1]

Storm water in many homes discharges in a combination sewer into the sanitary sewer system. When the system becomes overloaded from all the rain water it will backup into the lowest basements until the system drains down to a regular level. The standpipe effectively raises your basement about 18 inches above your neighbors, giving you a cushion until the waters subside.

[@bobbg9041]

the city needs to separate sewage and storm water drains. Most new houses are built this way. some older homes drained into the sewer system but when you get a lot of rain the city can not treat that much water, KCMO got fined by the state for dumping overage sewage into the mo river. we are now paying our ases off o correct this stupidity they have known about for years. but kept kicking the can down the street on the issue. St Louis has the same problems. Rain water off your roof should go into a storm sewer and not sanitary sewage. Storm water can run back into a creek or the river, sanitary sewage has to be treated with chemicals.

[@SethSev]

Thank you for the very helpful video.

[@maryjospiegel4112]

Thank you so much for these videos!

[@MagnumDB]

I was just about to seal our drain because after living here for 3 years, our basement has begun to flood. Not just water but sludge is coming in. It’s awful. Glad I’m not doing that anymore - that note about water pressure is terrifying. I’ll look more into this.

[@MCCService]

very informative

[@kolobkolobkolobkolob]

Had a plumber over in past but he never said that plugging the drain in event of flood that pressure would cause foundation to push or blow upward, wow never heard anything like that before. Will check with the City on that as well. Always wonder about the pipe stand idea I had sounds like its used in real life so very cool

[@normcarguy4571]

Very good video

[@lillithjones993]

Thank you for sharing your wisdom. I have a condo that is at ground level. It was built in 1977. There is a rusted stand pipe in a closet under a shelf where my ac unit sits and the second floors ac unit shares a common condensation pipe. The condensation pipe empties into a less than 10 inch stand pipe. When tree roots grow into the pipe far away from my condo or the main gets clogged, the water backs up into my condo hallway and living room. The manager said my condo is the only one out of 254 units that has this problem. That makes me think that everyone else’s stand pipe must have a cap on it or it is 18 inches tall but I don’t think 18 inches would leave room for the condensation pipe to drain into the stand pipe because the air conditioning unit sits on the shelf and the shelf is pretty low to the floor. A plumber came and said the water is suppose to be in the pipe to prevent gases. I asked him if it needed a check valve via text and he did not respond. He said the main was clogged. I don’t know what this pipe is for but if no one else’s condo floods, I need to find out what is keeping their water from over flowing. Do you know what kind of pipe it is? Thank you for your time!

[@MrHardware1]

You are probably the lowest unit in your area, hence when there’s a blockage you are the first to flood. If the sewer needed cleaning then that is the associations responsibility, I believe, and if it’s roots it’s probably gonna have to be replaced and management is probably trying to avoid that expense. You could get a condensate pump and raise the stand pipe and the pump would push the water to the higher standpipe. However when there’s a blocked sewer line you may still be the low person and you may still flood.

[@jonredd650]

This guy has been around!

[@bubblesmckenzie4125]

Enjoying you. 🙂❤️

[@MrHardware1]

The storm water in a combination sewer flows to the city sewer system. When the city system cannot handle all the water it uses the basement as a retention pond. The standpipe virtually raises the basement floor, containing the flood water, storm and sanitary both. The reason for the pipe being no taller than 18" is because the cement floor cannot withstand the hydraulic pressure of the water. Some basement cement floors should not be standpiped at all, check with the local building official regarding your area and the safety of using a standpipe. Never plug both floor drains unless directly advised by a local professional.

[@mitchellbuckley7989]

My floor Drain pipe is made of 4" I.D. Clay Pipe, can't find a expanding rubber bushing of that size, so , what do i use? Thanks ..Mitchell B.

[@nobozos7444]

Why isn't stormwater sent to drains that are not connected to houses? Is there a difference between the toilet line and the floor drain line? I grew up in Michigan and we had standpipes. I could be wrong but I seem to remember the downspouts from the rain gutter going into a sewer-like pipe next to the house. I live in Utah now and stormwater on the street is in no way connected to house drains. Can you recommend a good product to get rid of roots in main sewer line? Thank you.

[@blairgilbert7606]

@@nobozos7444 In the Detroit are homes were built with a 'combination sewer' probably to save money and at the time the lines weren't overloaded. The toilet is on a 'sanitary' line and usually one of the floor drains are on the sanitary line. The other floor drain is connected to the storm drain lines which is connected to the sanitary line at the basement foundation. FOAMING ROOT KILLER or ROOTEX are the best root killers we have ever sold.

[@johncbarker5587]

If you flood? Got to WATCH this!

[@bubblesmckenzie4125]

I'm a new subscriber. Enjoy your videos. 🙄❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@MrHardware1]

Thanks so much, we appreciate it!

[@Stingworm]

Reporting back on my own standpipe installation according to Mr. Hardware's video. I ran into a few small issues, so maybe folks can comment, or find this information useful otherwise. 1) The PVC female inserts I was able to get are a bit short, so they don't cover all of the rubber inside the donut ring, but only about two thirds. Maybe this wasn't the right part, it is actually meant to be cemented on 1.5" pipe (OD is 1 7/8 "). But I didn't find any other "insert" that would have been half an inch longer. 2) The wide part on top of these inserts covered the donut screws partially, so it was somewhat awkward using a screwdriver to tighten the rubber in the last moments. 3) When screwed in as tight as possible under these circumstances, I can still turn the standpipe with its insert without much force, so the rubber does not grip the insert as tight as I might have expected. I would hope tho that any water rising would not get around quickly, a little weeping is probably fine. (Pouring water around the whole contraption revealed a tiny drip into the drain, one can hear it). Am I ok? 😕

[@MyKkata]

Hi Blair - I live in Michigan also (Dearborn)! Just became a homeowner (house built in 1950s) over the past couple of months, my basement sewer drain (in front of the Laundry tub), is overflowing (yuck) (both when I flush the toilet or take long showers) I had the plumber come in and 'snake' the drain (step 1). This helped clear out some - he said that there are tree roots growing into the sewer pipes and that he had to come back and cut the roots.. I was ok with that. So the drain worked fine - till Easter last month.. then it started backing up again.. i had to call him had have him run the rotors (3").. this was supposed to have cut the roots growing in the sewer line (sort of create a pilot drill).. i thought this fixed the problem.. unfortunately, in less than a month after the roots were "cut", it started backing up AGAIN.. i am so frustrated.. we didn't run the camera or any such thing.. I am tired out shelling out 100 bucks+ every time for the plumber to 'fix' this problem.. Currently, the sewer is backing up in the same spot (front of the laundry area in the basement).. I have tried to call the plumber twice - but he stood me up twice.. very frustrated.. any suggestions?

[@thatjlyn]

+MyKkata I am in mid Michigan. I had my main sewer line replaced a few years ago. You would think that this would solve the problem right? No, what I just found out is that the roots can still get into your sewer line from your footings (basically they are clay gutter drains around the perimeter of your house). Those old drains were still tied into my sewer drain. The roots had completely filled the clay pipes and grew into the sewer pipe. Even after they were cut out of the main pipe by a roto rooter type company, they still existed and could grow back very quickly. I can't replace my footings without taking out my cement front and back porches. Since they are clogged anyway I had the footings capped off. I'm now installing a French drain system inside and outside to perform the work the old footings did. However I'm having problems with my floor drain in the basement. That line ties into the now clear main drain. I can see roots growing into the floor drain so I'm replacing that (another 1300). I just want to make sure no other footings or access for roots exist first. I can't tell you a quick fix. I can tell you that any tree that grows more than 10' is getting cut down, except for the one at the curb. Good luck.

[@MrHardware1]

+thatjlyn First off, see if you can get a referral from a local hardware. We maintain a list of contractors we like...What we like is when customers call and complement us on our group. That is what makes the list so good. Second, once the roots have been snaked, within 3 days, use a bottle of Foaming Root Destroyer. It is a herbicide mixed with a foam that will coat the roots left exposed in the pipe and usually keeps the roots at bay for 6 months or more. About $20 a treatment.

[@thatjlyn]

Sure you can use the root killer in the main drain, but that does nothing for the roots sitting next to the main drain in the footing drain tiles. Problem will still be sitting an inch away.

[@MrHardware1]

+thatjlyn a good sewer man will tell you every distance where he struck roots. Then you can plan a treatment to kill the roots.

[@TheProtagonist_777]

I hope I can find these adapters. This is much simpler than what I had in mind.

[@MrHardware1]

Make sure your floor drains finish (about 2" down) at 3". If they do we can ship parts to you. Also have your sewer main snaked first to make sure there is not a plug or restriction there.

[@rlh125]

This looks perfect for my needs. Thanks. Do you know of an online source for the expandable donut with internal threads for the pipe? I checked my local hardware store and didn't see anything even close.

[@MrHardware1]

Call us, 586-776-9532, and we'll ship over the phone. We are working on getting them on the cart, but we are too busy at the hardware. Soon.

[@markbrown5405]

Mr Hardware your quality of experience in this field is well appreciated sir. I am still however a little confused I live in Detroit in a close home to home suburban area and our basements turn to lakes. What is my best solution ?

[@MrHardware1]

First determine if the water is coming from the city sewer or from ground water around your house. If the water is coming from the city a check valve protecting your drain from the sewer is best. About $900 If the water is semi-clear, meaning it is from around your house (flower beds are low) you need to use water management to keep water from getting near the house. 3 truck loads of dirt, $250

[@BigMoney23223]

I know you mark

[@mitchellbuckley7989]

Hi again, called some hardware stores, and plumbing supply houses , and they don't know what i am talking about as what you call a floor drain stand pipe, My floor drains in my basement are the 4" red clay pipe. Either i get a "stand pipe" or cement a 4" dia. threaded nipple. I like the stand pipe, i also of using a water sensor, and putting a hose into the vertical stand pipe, connected to a electric pump...or capping the vertical standpipe, with a garden hose connection, allowing the water to the outside, as my house is on the top of a hill. What do you think? Very good video, you sure know your stuff, congrulations !

[@MrHardware1]

If your floor drains are clay pipe they are not water-tite. At least here in the Detroit area black cast iron pipe was leaded and thought to be water-tite and the clay was used to collect water as it was not. You cannot connect a pipe and go above 18" and not raise the pressure on the cement floor. If I was on a hill I would try to pipe from below grade, the basement floor level, and run level until I hit the downside of the hill and let the water flow.

[@seandonnell90]

Thanks for the video Mr. Hardware. I wanted to know if you can install multiple Standpipes in a basement. I have 3 total floor drains in the basement, I know for a fact two go to the same overall underneath system, but not sure about the third. Can you install standpipes in each of the drains or do you only install in one of the connected drains and have a float-guard type in the other drain/s? I would appreciate your advice.

[@MrHardware1]

Standpipes are safer than plugging the drain. You can have as many as you have drains.

[@evenflow3256]

I remove these set ups on a regular basis so I can snake the underground drains to restore flow .

[@marjoriejudge5348]

our house was built in 1958 but the drain grates are 6 inches wide , leading me to think the drain pipe is a bit larger than the one in the demo

[@SeecondToNone1]

House is 1907. Lived here 2 years. Not in a typical flood zone. Recent rain however had made my drains backup into basement. Talking to city they told me their system could not handle the 2 inches in 1 hour rain fall. my part of town has a shared system (sewage and runoff with most gutters drain into sewage with only 6 inch pipe system). On very flat section of town. So I believe my backup from drains was sewage aswell. You recommend a solution I can do? Standpipe or maybe a check valve drain (since it's tied to sewer can I cap it or pressure to much? I only received maybe 1 inch but the damage was done to my semi finished basement.

[@MrHardware1]

The 4" check valve is the best solution, plus you may need a sump pump and pit to handle ground water from around the house.

[@paulmanahan4642]

My basement flooded because the floor drains were run to a river behind my house back in the forty's. The actual sewer line that was run in later years is well above the basement floor level. When we had the massive flood here in WV a couple of years ago, I ended up with about 6' of water in my basement through the floor drains. When the river receded the water flowed out the floor drains but the damage was significant. Can I put the stand pipe higher than 18" under this scenario or should I seal the drains and add a sump pump?

[@MrHardware1]

Wow, I'd say to seal the drains and add 2 sump pumps. Your issue is a little extreme for me to discuss. Yours is a local issue, master plumber and city building official.

[@Stingworm]

This is very helpful, thanks much. Q: Is there any advantage or disadvantage removing the rubber bushing during winter/non-rain season? Just wondering how long the elasticity of the rubber will be good enough to make a tight seal. Maybe there is a way with certain treatments to keep the rubber from getting hard over the years? or just replacing them every so often...

[@MrHardware1]

The rubber does get stiffer as it ages, also it’s the screws, I put a drop of oil or grease on the screws every time I touch one. I install and don’t touch it unless I have to.

[@Stingworm]

@@MrHardware1 Good idea, using some lube on the screws.

[@TruthSeekerAi]

LMAO TO ITS GONNA RAIN GREAT VIDEO THO THANK YOU

[@zz3566]

Would it be a problem to keep the "laundry room" drain open (as the floor is tile and easier to clean in an overflow) and stop up the other drain (closer to the street) but in the carpeted side of the basement?

[@MrHardware1]

Sure, but are you having your main sewer line snaked once a year to see if it is the problem? Or is the city sewer backing up into your basement?

[@goldleaf889]

I have a drain in my laundry room that goes to the backyard and ally where the sewer is. The man who routes my basement said to get a Econo plug but I'm pretty sure that's a storm sewer can I use the Econo plug without worries of water coming up through my bathroom or shower? Sort of confused cuz you said most of the drains in laundry bins go out to the sanitary drain but I'm sure mine goes to the storm sewer cuz when I get backed up there's no feces in the water. Please give me a reply cuz I'm curious if I should buy a plug or not cuz I keep getting floods from the backups home was built in 1964 I live in Chicago. Thank you

[@MrHardware1]

I don't know the plumbing in your area, however few homes have a seperate storm sewer line from the house to the city. When your line from the house to the alley is clogged or restricted a rain produces more water than can get through the restriction which leads to a clear (rainwater) at the house. I think I would camera the drain line.

[@jackiemiller5085]

I live in a 80 year old house, located west of St. Clair Shores, in which the storm drain and sewer drains are combined. I had a brand new backflow preventer box installed on the sewer line in my basement a couple of months ago, and had all the sewer drains snaked, including the basement shower drain that used to back up with sewage during flooding. My plumber told me that the other two floor drains (2.5" in the laundry area and 1.5" old corroded drain by the furnace) empty into the storm sewer. Due to heavy rains in July 2020 and rains from a few days ago June 2021, the basement flooded from these two drains and included sewage! What do you recommend that I place in these 2 drains?

[@MrHardware1]

When I install a check valve on the house sanitary sewer, I cap the storm, (weep tile) drain tile line out to the city sewer. Then I add a sump pit and pump to handle the house storm water. Sanitary and storm are now separate. If the city sewer is filled to capacity and my sanitary is stopped at least the sump pit is keeping my basement dry.

[@mirada1983]

Do you have the expanding rubber donuts in stock? I can’t find one.

[@MrHardware1]

Always.... until the 3rd day of rain. Call the store and we'll put one away for you or ship it if needed. 586-776-9532

[@rwrigh10]

Hi, saw you made this video in 2014. So hopping there might be new information. I have a drain with a washer/dryer stacked on top of the drain due to no space. I live in a garden level condo building. The sewer lines backed up and flooded my unit(in Chicago). A standpipe is not an option due to the washer/dryer, but can I put the flood-guard on this drain and let the sewage water come up my shower/bathtub drain? You mentioned water pressure, so I'm wondering if I put the flood-guard on the one drain if that would cause a problem. Thank you!

[@MrHardware1]

It sounds like you have an overflow in the shower, so I'd put in the check in the floor drain. You may be able to contact the building superintendent to get better facts seeing as you are out of my area.

[@rwrigh10]

Thank you

[@darensporski3675]

I have a quick question, If you wouldn't mind, in regards to the standpipes. We just experienced some moderate flooding/sewer backflow due some pretty bad ice jams on a nearby creek. (According to neighbors, this hasn't occurred in the 50+ years they've lived here). We've had all sorts of weather (Buffalo, N.Y.) and we've never had sewer backflow. We've also never had drainage issues or any basement flooding due to heavy rain or rapid snow melt. So here's our situation: we have a basement with no sump pump (pretty common and standard in the area) and there is just a single drain near the wash tub/sink. My question is would I be able to go higher with the standpipe? If I know for a fact the water is due to sewage backflow, do the same risks apply to the 18" rule. Also, I was contemplating putting an elbow on the end of the pipe so I could direct any overflow into a basin/holding tank to be pumped out of the house, almost like a above floor sump basin? Does that idea have an merit in your opinion. Thanks for the video. Great help!

[@MrHardware1]

Daren, it sounds like your only floor drain is connected to the sanitary sewer lines in your basement. If that is so and it does not connect in any way to drain tiles that may surround your basement (someplace for sewer water to back-flow beneath your basement floor) you may be able to install a check valve. (better than a standpipe because it is a plug) I would call the community building department for what they believe is the underground plumbing of your house. They should be able to guide you better than I, from afar.

[@CHEFMART]

I like your video but I’m not sure I really understand what the standpipe is or does and what would be the need for it other than having back up sump pumps and hoses at the ready going out the window

[@MrHardware1]

It raises the water table against your basement floor 18" higher than it is w/out the standpipe. It gives you an edge against a backup from the sanitary sewer in your street.

[@sewerdog1011]

I like and understand the concept. Where can I order these from? I am from Newark Ohio.

[@MrHardware1]

Gilberts hardware in Saint Clair Shores Michigan. 586-776-9532.

[@Zharsergey]

I have a 4" clay floor drain. Is it possible to install the expanding rubber donut and then convert to 3" PVC?

[@MrHardware1]

either a Fernco donut that can drive into the drain and a pvc pipe driven into it or a General Wire and Spring insert that will accept a standpipe might solve your problem. drainbrain.com for General.

[@kolobkolobkolobkolob]

Wuestion. The Higher the pipe going up, higher height the better I assume so it can handle more pressure. So perhaps bring it as high as the basement ceiling even or what about going as high as basement ceiling then create a bend in the pipe and bring it through the upper first level floor wall as a place for the water to blow pressure etc out of. Seems like maybe some potential there if thought out well. Thanks for video. Any comments appreciated.

[@MrHardware1]

Raising the standpipe above 2 feet, begins creating enough hydraulic pressure that can start raising the concrete floor in your basement and putting cracks in it. Extending the pipe up higher even if you reduce it to see a garden hose to run it out the basement window is the same as plugging the drain and it can cause damage to the floor. Considering all the floors are different thicknesses and plumbing is all different across the country. You would have to check with the local building inspector as to how much pressure they would expect the floor to withstand.

[@CaitlinEverettStuff]

Would it be ok to keep a very large standpipe around? Like 6ft? Is there any point at which the pressure is just too much for this sort of prevention?

[@MrHardware1]

Somewhere after 2 foot high, maybe before you hit 3 feet, the pressure of the floor can buckle the concrete floor. There is no absolute rules for measurement because the concrete floor can only be from 2 1/2 inches to over 4 inches thick so you never know…

[@johnlow9687]

Good video. I am in the country no sewer, property has been know to have a high water table. Lived there 6 yrs no water in basement, I mean we have had rain of such that I had a lake in the front yard and no water in the basement. 2 weeks ago I have a flooded basement 1-2", water is coming up the floor drains. House is a 1951 with NO sump hole.I suspect that the old French drain has an issue, unfortunately the house has been added onto so you can't get to 1 side of the basement. Questions: 1--do you feel a stand pipe would be a good solution or at least an tool to see how high the water table is? 2-- permanent fix of a sump hole or a full in side French drain with sump hole?? Thanks

[@MrHardware1]

you must be on a hill or have a terrific pitch away from the house or you would have had water in the basement by now. Where would you have a french drain that deep into the ground to absorb water all those years. I think a sump pit but would like to see what the french drain was.

[@johnlow9687]

actually very flat central Indiana ground. woods behind me and to the west, tillable ground to my east and across the rd to my south. Ground is known to have a high water table. the floor has 3 drains cast iron, I'm suspecting there isvan exterior french drain around the basement. Just don't have a clue where the french tile system drain too.

[@MrHardware1]

@@johnlow9687 Wow, me either. Next go to the building department, you are probably not unique and they may know the local system.

[@map1313]

Can I install flood guard in basement floor drain and in the laundry drain on main floor? Would thay create pressure that can damage basement floor?

[@MrHardware1]

Typically the floor drain in front of the laundry in the basement is on the sanitary line and can be plugged. The other for drain if it’s connected to the drain tile around the house should not be plugged and needs to get 18 to 24 inch standpipe instead of a plug. These are merely suggestions from afar because your actual home may have had a remodel or a plumber may have changed the location prior to you owning the house so these rules are only suggestions. These suggestions are not to be trusted without a local inspector giving you on-site advice.

[@vladlashing]

what happens if you plug laundry, shower standpipe the weeping drain but you still have a toilet? Its going to become a geyser no?

[@blairgilbert7606]

The toilet is the same as a standpipe, maybe a little shorter but still high enough to save your basement from a small flood.

[@geraldgolen9157]

You stated that stand pipe must be connected to drain that is connected to the weeping tile system. So how do I figure out which drain is connected to the weeping tile system?

[@MrHardware1]

The drain near the laundry is usually the sanitary. A plumber or sewer ‘snaker’ would be able to identify which is which.

[@dewnotbdeceived80]

Which do you recommend, the stand pipe or check valve? Is there any risk with pressure with the check valve? Should a check valve be used on one drain pipe and the stand pipe on the one by the laundry?

[@blairgilbert7606]

You can only put a check valve into the drain in front of the laundry tub (in a typical plumbed basement post WWII) then the stand pipe in the drain away from the laundry.

[@dewnotbdeceived80]

@@blairgilbert7606 Thanks, is there any risk with putting check valves on both? The one away from the laundry tub is in the finished area of the basement.

[@helexable]

@@dewnotbdeceived80 if you put a check valve in both you risk the hydrostatic preasure of the water damaging the house by raising and cracking the basement floor he explains this in the video

[@mfadaa]

I am in need of a two-inch Drain Flood Protector "Donut" (2 inch Standpipe Model with rubber gasket). I have only been able to find a 3 and 4 inch one. Do you know where I could find a 2 inch donut? Or would you know if there is something else available that would serve the same purpose? Thank you for your help.

[@MrHardware1]

I believe we may have a Fernco donut that will allow you to standpipe a 2 inch hole. Call Gilberts hardware at 586-776-9532 and ask for Danial.

[@rayfranz233]

Is it possible to use the donut and attach a hose to it and put it in a sump pump? Or is the hose to long that it would cause that raising concrete issue?

[@MrHardware1]

Not if the pump and hose remain under 20”

[@rayfranz233]

@@MrHardware1 thanks for the input.

[@eduardoherrera6320]

hi...I have 3 drains in my basement....I have seen 2 of them overflow when we get a lot of rain fast... Do all of them have to have standpipes? Could plug one and have standpipes on the other 3? Thanks!

[@MrHardware1]

Usually I can plug the ‘sanitary’ drain in front of the laundry tub and use standpipes in the weep tile drain. A sewer man or plumber can identify which is which to be sure.

[@eduardoherrera6320]

@@MrHardware1 ...Thank you!

[@kalnory146]

What do you do when the pipe is full of sediment? And can't fit insert? I'm afraid I'm going to break the pipes if I start chipping it off

[@MrHardware1]

It could be that there is a fitting 'leaded' into the drain. Crud should be scrap-able but sediment in the trap needs a water jet to break it up.

[@kalnory146]

Nothing fits... I bought one...It's too big or too small.( Cast iron) I tried to get the drain off and it broke in half that's why I'm afraid to Chip away the sediment... Can I retrofit a pvc with the cast iron to make a "new" pipe to install the stand pipe? They want me to install overhead sewer... But...geez... That's alot of money even if they pay 75%

[@BigMoney23223]

Can’t you use a longer pipe rather than a few feet? I know you can’t cap it, but use a really long pipe like 8-10 feet?

[@MrHardware1]

It will create too much pressure after 24” or so the pressure will start trying to lift the floor.

[@pnutbuttababi24]

The towns that use people’s basements as retention ponds should be responsible for preventing this from happening. Homeowners shoveling out thousands because of their problem should not be happening.

[@flametai1]

Is 18" the highest you can make a stand pipe or can you make it higher than 18"?

[@MrHardware1]

There is no code or rule on how high the standpipe can be. Variables like concrete thickness and quality control how much pressure it can stand before it heaves and breaks. 36” is the highest I have seen a customer use w/out a break in the floor. (He may have 4” or thicker floors, some are poured as thin as 2 1/2”) What happens is the water wants to float the house like a boat and the floor isn’t strong enough.

[@lekosone]

Do they make a 2” version of that donut? I have 2” cast iron floor drains, the stand pipes I’m currently using are not properly sealed to the drain. Thanks

[@MrHardware1]

There is a 2 inch rubber check valve designed to go in the basement shower drains, which have a 2 inch ID. No good adapter for the old “Bell Traps”.

[@lekosone]

@@MrHardware1 ok thanks.

[@jrjubach]

Great video, thanks. I have a drain in my floor in front of the washer/dryer/furnace/water heater. That welled up as well as the one in the garage. Can I safely block the one in the laundry room completely? I guess you might not know. House was built in baby-boomer times. Take care. - Jeff

[@MrHardware1]

It is usually a restricted main drain, or a closer section of underground drain, that is causing the overflow out of the floor drain. The checks and standpipe are to protect the house when the city main is not evacuating the water from your block properly. If the city is backing up, these are for you. If the city is draining properly get a sewer man to run the drains and find out where the clog is. Blair

[@jrjubach]

Mr. Hardware Thank you!! I do think it's the city.

[@ElijahXHosein]

I live on the ground floor, of a condo building, I get floods with sewage/waste, but never when it rains hard. I usually have to call a plumber every few months to snake out the mainline, but the floods have been so unpredictable. Recently I had a plumber come by, and he installed a standing pipe, but he capped it on the top. Should I be worried?

[@MrHardware1]

It sounds like an infrastructure problem w/the sewer system. I would go to the city DPW and request an opinion from the building official. They would be the best resource for confirming the capped standpipe also.

[@wonk0699]

Good video. Thanks. What about a solution for toilets?

[@MrHardware1]

Toilets are 15” standpipes, pull and plug, usually 4”, if you want more.

[@jworden4560]

@@MrHardware1 I love this video! You get all Win-Lose-or-Draw at 6:24! :D :D :D ... Seriously though, excellent examples.

[@mariannegoldweber1577]

This ended abruptly is there a part 2?

[@MrHardware1]

Sorry, no. Our editor is trying to keep the videos short. Send me any questions you have and I’ll do what I can to help.

[@AraHowrani]

Thank you for this info! Got some questions: - my under sink drain has a drain going into it from the humidifier on my furnace - suggestion on what to do with that? - is a sub-pump something to consider in addition to a standpipe, or not even possible? - can I just leave standpipe in all the time, if I choose?

[@MrHardware1]

The humidifier is of little concern, turn off the water feed when flooding is imminent. A standpipe is the first and least expensive step against flooding. The problem is if some plumbing in the house fails and is leaking, the standpipe will prevent it from going down the drain. I put a sump pit and whole house check valve if I’m putting big $$ into a basement remodel, $2,500 or more….

[@AraHowrani]

@@MrHardware1 We would be honored to have you prep our basement before we finish it, again. We are in GP Farms. Can I just call Gilberts?

[@MrHardware1]

@@AraHowrani yes, and ask for At-less plumbing, Direct Plumbing or Frost Plumbing. I’m retired and only work from Harsens Island

[@SliderGT]

Do you have a solution for a 2" drain?

[@MrHardware1]

Yup, we need them for basement shower stall. Gilbert’s, 586-776-9532 to order.

[@kalnory146]

I have cast iron pipe nothing fits, how do I retrofit?

[@MrHardware1]

What does it measure? What year is your home? All older homes up to about 1960 were all cast iron.

[@saqibali5447]

Thanks for the video do u install these standpipes if i request im in allen park downriver? Also whats ur store adress Thanks

[@MrHardware1]

We do not install. Only teach and sell. Gilbert's Hardware 21912 Harper Ave, St. Clair Shores 48080

[@MariaPorowinski]

Overhead sewers and drain tiles with a sump pump don't solve the problem if the city main sewer line is filled to capacity and your sump pump cant pump the water up and out

[@MrHardware1]

That is why I discourage plumbing a sump to the sewer. I like to run the discharge line near the street so it can overflow to a storm water basin, not processed as sewage.

[@moaainalg6762]

Hi thanks for video very helpful I notice you one for the floor drain and for the shower what about the toilet in the basement and I need you store address thank you

[@MrHardware1]

The toilet is at standpipe height already. If you wanted to go higher, which I do not advise, you can remove the toilet and plug the flange in the floor. Gilbert's Pro Hardware, 21912 Harper Ave, St. Clair Shores, MI 48080 586-776-9532

[@davidbogren7028]

I watched the video and understand this. Noe I can't find where to purchase the donuts I need one that is 1 1/2

[@MrHardware1]

You may need to do some plumbing to attach internally to an 1 1/2 pipe. Can you plug it and put a standpipe on another location?

[@WRENCHSPINNER]

Can other houses sewer back up into your house??

[@MrHardware1]

Yes, because all your sewers are going to a common sewer main in the street or the alley so if the line gets clogged anyones sh*t could end up in your basement

[@Sisyphusquit]

Can someone tell me what he said....there are 2 drains. The second he explained is by the laundry tub. Where did he say the first one is. It sounded like " weeping tile" ???

[@MrHardware1]

In the Detroit area of Michigan, homes built (small to medium size) after the 40s and going into the 70s had 2 floor drains in the basement. One drain near the laundry tub was tied into the sanitary sewer of the house plumbing system, and the other floor drain was tied into the weeping tile system of the house. Groundwater coming in around the perimeter of the house is absorbed by the drain tiles around the house and in this area (of Michigan) they tied into the sanitary system of the house into one sewer lead to the city sewer. Too much rain and an 0ver whelmed city main lead to water backing up into peoples basements. The purpose of the standpipe was to effectively raise the floor of your basement 18 inches so it had a buffer before it flooded.

[@Sisyphusquit]

@@MrHardware1 thanks. I'm just north of Det but my basement only seems to have one drink in the basement. It's near the laundry tub. Im hoping it's safe to place a back flow preventer there. We had the basement "waterproofed" last fall but still had a little back up due to the heavy rains last week

[@BCLewis-ng9wv]

Thanks for the vid. So let's just say you live in a duplex, with a drain on both sides in either basement. 1968 build. every time the neighbors take a shower or does laundry, your side floods but not theirs, and they don't give a crap about what happens to you Cleanout is on their side.. And on top of that, you have a incompetent management company that can't solve the problem after two years. Would you suggest the flood guard check valve? I mean, if their side flooded perhaps they would actually care. All hypothetical, of course!

[@MrHardware1]

I think the flood guard should prevent sewage from coming up your drain. If you guys share a main sewer lead you should be able to snake out the main from your side.

[@parkerbrothersplumbing1782]

local plumber here in Saint Clair shores, Gilberts has everything.

[@ericdonovsky543]

Who makes it? Where to but

[@MrHardware1]

General makes them, Gilbert’s Hardware sells them and also other plumbing shops.

[@bardnightingale]

What if you only have 1 drain?

[@MrHardware1]

Depending on your city and the year your house was constructed you’re gonna need to go to the local Building Dept and if there’s an old enough employee there that may be able to tell you what the configuration of your basement probably is. I only know Northeast Detroit from 1948 to 1970. Some homes have only one drain because; they are small (less than 1,000 sq ft), the sanitary sewer is above the basement floor level, or the contractor building the basement cheaper out, also sometimes the second drain is obscured or hidden.

[@kblopp]

If you install that standpipe the rain water will just come in under your basement walls due to the external pressure on the outside of your basement walls.

[@MrHardware1]

Yes, but usually very little, and it is usually rain water, not sewage water. The standpipes are only a bandaid but the only solution to reduce damage during rainstorms that don’t have the 8 to $10,000 for a check valve and sump pump system.

[@galeisgay3287]

s-3f floor guard is the name of the "donut" it took me hours to find

[@Stingworm]

Yes, those are not a common article. Did not find them at hardware chain stores like Home Depot or Menard's either. Only brand I saw was "General Wire". Some sellers on Ebay and even Amazon. Prices were between $19 and $27 for one. Of course, there is Gilbert's shop :) and I also saw a website called "drain-tech" that had them.

[@user-kl4qk9yl9g]

The flood guards don't work. My basement still floods

[@MrHardware1]

Find a 'sewer man' not a plumber. Get the camera also. Then use foaming root killer to prevent the roots from growing back in months. Twice a year of root killer has cured most of my customers problems. Try your local hardware for a refferal.

[@parkerbrothersplumbing1782]

most good plumbers are also sewer men

[@mfadaa]

where can I purchase the "donut" you talk about in your video?

[@MrHardware1]

Gilbert’s Hardware, ask for Daniel, 586-776-9532

[@mfadaa]

@@MrHardware1 Thank you

[@mitchellbuckley7989]

can the standpipe be longer than 18 inches ?

[@MrHardware1]

It can be, however you risk the chance of the water pressure raising and cracking your basement floor. The same pipes that absorb water around the basement and some below the floor (drain tile) can secrete water as you plug and raise the floor drains.

[@richardsunday1612]

depending on your house and cellar, you could probably divert it right out again . . . :)

[@MrHardware1]

If you create a head over 18" the floor could break.

[@ywass00]

Your reasoning for having a standpipe on storm but not being able to cap storm, makes no sense to me. Where does your storm/Foundation water drain too?

[@bobbg9041]

Water pressure has enough force to bust the foundation of your home and or floor, it pushes basement walls over its a very common problem. you can look at any city in the USA and find a foundation repair company and its the home owners cost to repair insurance does not cover it. It can cost ten's of thousands of dollars to fix. don't cap the stand pipe. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zou2n4KalMifq8U kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYTVlX2gobaipqM this guy is an old pro he knows his stuff kzbin.info/www/bejne/fanXgqyPgriSbNU

[@eduardoherrera6320]

the other 2 that is....sorry

[@bobbg9041]

That will teach them nasty neighbors!

[@fixingstupidsince]

Any my mom's.

[@ywass00]

Haha, "ill bet them a dollar" you must be older than you look.

[@jworden4560]

I loved that part too!

[@MrHardware1]

I'm a young baby boomer