Princeton Reverb Build pt 2 - Chassis Fabrication and Mounting

In this video I continue my adventure to custom build a Princeton Reverb style guitar amplifier from scratch.
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[@randysummers9228]

Glad to see you moving forward on the build. That will be a tight work space once you include the reverb transformer and connectors. I’m sure it will fit with some creativity. I tend to be more traditional in my layouts. The designs are familiar to users and other techs that may work on it at another time and place. It also has the advantage of widely available layout drawings being useful for my build. Fender amp layouts are usually good for lead dress to avoid noise. Problem areas (such as tremolo) are well known. I like aluminum chassis as long as it is strong enough to support the transformers for decades of use without bending. Steel is stronger. Clearance for speaker can be important on layout. I found out the hard way that you can’t center the speaker on a deluxe reverb. 😝 I have a few of the staking tools. I actually use a 16-penny nail for the job. My eyelets hold better when I use that. I build my eyelet boards on thicker fiberglass stock, which may be why the nail works better. Florida humidity makes fiberboard for crazy things. Will continue to follow along with interest.

[@KleyDeJong]

Thanks for the input, more episodes incoming!

[@LaloFP]

You can keep the chassis plastic protector so you don't mark the actual piece with the build lines and marks and protect the hole thing during the build

[@KleyDeJong]

Good idea, thanks.

[@jamesrobinsonjr.9384]

@@KleyDeJong is there a way to message you privately? I am very interested in having you do a buil for me.

[@KleyDeJong]

@@jamesrobinsonjr.9384 Send me an email at [e-mail]. I'd love to chat!

[@JasonTHutchinson]

Hope there's room for the speaker jacks, pedal jacks, and reverb jacks. I would also make sure that the knobs will fit before getting to deep into it. Next time, I would suggest creating a drilling template so everything lines up nicely.

[@KleyDeJong]

It definitely gets to be a tight squeeze!

[@williambock1821]

Trainwreck amps are always aluminum. I guess Ken liked them better than steel for some kind of interaction reason. I can’t remember exactly what. But if they worked for him…Plus after drilling tube holes in Hammond organ conversions,I’ll take aluminum ANY day!!

[@kbowen2251]

You need to get a hand reaming tool to clean up all those lil burrs. Especially since you are using aluminum it will work great and give all the holes a nice lil chamfer.

[@KleyDeJong]

Thanks Ken, I have a stepped drill bit I use to debur. It gets a little cramped in a 5e3 chassis though!

[@kbowen2251]

@@KleyDeJong that's why you would like a little hole cleaning tool. I'll have to find the exact name of one but you can clean both sides of a home from outside the unit because of how it's curved. It's a nifty little gadget.

[@kbowen2251]

It's called a "deburring tool". Should be able to get it through harbor freight or any decent hardware store.

[@waynegram8907]

Kley De Jong, when looking at a guitar amplifier schematic how can you tell if the amplifier is a low plate amplifier or high plate amplifier because I have heard that fender amplifiers are low plate amplifiers compared to marshall are high plate amplifiers which you can go over in video lesson.

[@Frankentoane]

How thick is your aluminum chassis? Im a bit worried in using these for 50w-100w builds with heavy tranys and a choke mounted sideways

[@KleyDeJong]

Yeah I'm not sure if I'd go much bigger on this chassis. For the PR it's working great though.

[@stanislavmigra]

Hello Kley, great video. How do you meassure spacing for valves and transformers? Are you following some common layouts? Or just by experience?

[@KleyDeJong]

Thanks. It's a combination of having room to add components comfortably, avoiding heat buildup, thinking about what that tube will.be connected to, copying known layouts, and aesthetics. Experience helps a lot.