Problems with scanning and RA4 printing

[@igaluitchannel6644]

Very nice prints.

[@NordicLab]

Glad you like them!

[@AI-Hallucination]

I never scan negs I darkroom print a contact sheet. They scan the contact sheet. A copy of a copy

[@therearviewr.tapper1771]

I am sometimes doing contact prints on 25x30 but sometimes I have no time so I scan with either my DSLR and valoi or do a whole contact style scan on v850 but I scan raw as a negative and use capture one for the conversion and have much more control than NLP etc. And usually this is only to make a final selection anyway before going to the darkroom.

[@NordicLab]

But keep in mind - contact printing cool thing if you print after, because it’s fist test print and with experience you can know what to correct later.

[@arturors30]

Hi. I have a question. The last print (truck, plane and road) what it the size of the paper? Thanks.

[@NordicLab]

I cut paper in batches, so usually for now it’s 20*30 - maximum size what i can print in my drum

[@constantinf.5764]

what paper did you use here? Fuji Crystal Archive what?

[@NordicLab]

Fuji Supreme paper glossy

[@patrykzar]

I totally understand the frustration with scanning. I always get this weird magenta/purple hue when I scan Kodak 400 negative with my epson v850 in silverfast. Im so fed up with this. Why these stupid digital conversion softwares are so bad when it comes to color interpretation.. any help or advice? All the best

[@NordicLab]

It’s actually combination of problems - incredibly poor quality LED and lamps in the scanners, also poor quality in terms of the direction of the light and old rgb type system for scanning. Best way to scan film theoretically- Deep Blue, Green and Ultra Red LED light with combination of BW digital sensor without IR filter in this case you remove problems with base color mask of the film, problems of crosstalk’s in film and sensor and in the same time get real red from film. More or less this is “how drum scanners” takes pictures, but in this scanner you have photo multiplayer as a detector. So quick solution get best negative quality and use camera or dedicated scanner (Plustek for example) and adjust camera/scanner to produce good results with no settings under conversion with NegativeLab for example. In this case you will get at least consistent results.

[@patrykzar]

I tried scanning DNG raw format with silverfast and then convering with negative lab pro but still the results look very washed out and skin tones look very cold. I never calibrated my epson scanner and there is so little information about it online. But not even sure if the calibration is the solution to get better results

[@Siillky]

@@patrykzarI’ve always had the same exact problems. Very inconsistent too. I’m almost finished with my darkroom and I will only do prints from here on out

[@rockhills]

What is the app you show @1:53?

[@NordicLab]

This is MultiTimer app on android or ios💁

[@doktorshmurge7002]

Какое офигенное оборудование

[@x53LL33]

would still love to see you make contact sheets of your film! once those are made you can scan the sheet with a regular scanner and use that scanned image for digital usage! That way, with one scan of around 1 minute you can get a full sheet of 35mm film, already color corrected and everything! the only trade off is the resolution of each individual image, but it that will also be less the case with larger formats. Let me know what you think

[@NordicLab]

My problem with the contact print - size of the print. All contact printers what i saw in my life request bigger paper when i can develop in my drum, but in general i like idea because you get initial point of exposure and color and can estimate how good you are in exposure of negatives what is impossible in scanning✌️

[@x53LL33]

That is true, a full roll of 35mm does require a quite akward size of paper ( i believe 9.5x12) but you could start with your 6x6 shots and see how you like it! thankfully a full roll of 6x6 fits perfectly on a sheet of 8x10. then if you like the process you could always get the slightly larger jobo drum for processing the bigger paper 🤙🏻

[@constantinf.5764]

What paper did you use here?

[@NordicLab]

Fujifilm Crystal paper various ones

[@constantinf.5764]

@@NordicLab The most common is Type II, sold in boxes for enlarging. But I was told it is the lowest quality and that the best types come in rolls, type DP, type CA, etc.

[@DBWilliamsFilm36]

Thank you. another nice video. If i have any problems it was always with Portra 400. with a green colour cast. and the blue of the sky never looked the right shade of blue. I use the Epson V850 pro and Epson own software for the Basic scan then I use aperture Apple software for all the final adjustments. Ive always wondered how a darkroom print would look compared to a scan.

[@NordicLab]

This is always interesting for me because scanner even before conversion make optimisation for the exposure on each channel and if it’s wrong whole picture will be so far off what’s impossible to correct. Paper in this case extremely forgiving because you can select intensity of each channel on photohead in huge margins un comparison to full spectrum light scanning

[@javixo1997]

Just in case, I used to have a lot of problems scanning Portra but the origin of the issues was the developing. Portra is very sensitive to any variation of temperature or agitation during developing. Tried a different lab that develops with a machine and all the issues went away