Progressive Linkage Install On My Holley SNIPER EFI F100 (Difference Is NIGHT And DAY!)

[@michael-m1s9g]

1978 CUSTOM had round headlights RANGER RANGER XLT RANGER LARIAT had rectangular headlights in 79 all trim levels had rectangular headlights

[@konnorrandolph2677]

@user-mm5zy8cz8x Beat me to it. 79 fleet trucks also came with round headlights.

[@lancegarrett9736]

I saw the tires and was thinking “that looks rough…but maybe that’s just the tread….” And then you mentioned the tires lol Love the truck. Have a 77 myself

[@lock_to_lock]

Running on maypops! 😆

[@TIREDOFEVIL]

I have 5 of these F series from 1973 to 1979 in my collection. A couple of Super Cabs, two with factory 460's in them, and one with the factory side box in the bed. can't wait to find the time to get them back into shape and on the road.

[@jefflewis9395]

Man! I am so envious!! I used to have a 79 that was identical to yours. I will own another one. Good job man, keep tinkering and enjoy the journey

[@lock_to_lock]

Thank you sir, will do!

[@oldhomeguy8214]

1978 custom had round headlights. Ranger Ranger XLT Ranger Lariat had rectangle headlights. 1979 all models had rectangle headlights lights

[@biglazybilly]

THAT IS A VERY NICE TRUCK! PLEASE TAKE CARE OF HER!

[@chadkalina1257]

Early 78s had round late ones had square my grandpa's was a 78 and it had square ones

[@Mr-er6fg]

My new 79 Custom was square.

[@hilariolopez2550]

Love you videos man I have 1970 myself and these videos give me a great idea on how to go about it. Hope you keep it up

[@lock_to_lock]

Glad to hear it! More coming soon!

[@hustlinghard8081]

I'm pretty sure that 77 was the last yr for round headlights. My 78 has square headlights.

[@TailEndCustoms]

That truck is in real nice condition!

[@jheinz2]

Looks great man! Just bought a 78 4x4 Ranger XLT. Going through the same items you have been the last few months! Keep up the good work! I've been contemplating the Sniper aslo, just rebuilt my 2BBL carb to ensure motor isn't hurt. If all goes well this week, I'll get that EFI on order!

[@lock_to_lock]

You really can’t beat the ease of the EFI systems nowadays, I love mine! Good luck with your project, post a video or two!

[@chadkalina1257]

Looks just like the 75 f100 my dad had I miss it

[@leewalker3514]

I had one just like that had an 8 foot bed on it but mine had a 460 in it. It was a F150. They are wonderful trucks. And mine was black also.

[@lock_to_lock]

Best trucks!

[@Shouganaigarage]

Hell yeah dude glad it worked out

[@lock_to_lock]

So much better, thanks for telling me about it!

[@klc317]

Definitely cool! Great video.

[@lock_to_lock]

Thanks!

[@Collinsfamilylights]

1978 rangers and xlt trim packages had square headlights rest had round all 79s had square headlights

[@buttonysquare8501]

Hey man you may wanna pop the driveshaft back off real quick and redo the nut the same way but put orange or red loctite on the pinion nut. You won’t need to drain the diff or anything but that 175-200 ft lbs is to crush the crush sleeve that is used to get the proper drag on the pinion bearings and seat them in the races. Crush sleeves are supposed to be replaced whenever you have to pull a pinion. What you did with marking the nut is fine just know it is very easy to over-crush the sleeve. If you get what I mean you put 200 ft lbs of force on the crush sleeve to “crush” it but the nut is not actually tightened to 200 ft lbs, so it needs loctite because all the torque that is put on the drive line will eventually cause the nut to come loose.

[@buttonysquare8501]

You also may want to put a touch of rtv around the pinion side of the pinion nut washer. Gear oil can get past the splines as you can imagine. Usually it won’t but it’s a good idea.

[@lock_to_lock]

I’m gonna drop the driveshaft when I replace the trans output shaft seal, I’ll revisit the pinion nut when I do. Thanks for the tip!

[@buttonysquare8501]

@@lock_to_lockYou can also check your pinion bearing preload with a 1/4 beam style torque wrench, which will tell you the inch lbs or rotational force when you put it on the nut and spin it. You just want to make sure you have some drag on the bearings as you can’t trust that if another person worked on it at some point they did it right or that the pinion didn’t loosen slightly over time. Google Ford 9 inch pinion bearing preload and you should find the inch lbs of pinion preload you are looking for. Tighten the pinion until it has zero lash (you can’t pull it in and out anymore) and you will probably be getting very close to your mark on the nut. You have to be very slow with the impact but you can add inch lbs with the impact if you find your end mark on the nut is not the correct amount of preload. It’s usually a range (like 10-20 inch lbs) and can be slightly off but I cannot stress enough that if you overtighten it it cannot be backed off since you are crushing a steel sleeve, so be careful. Chances are the nut is right where your marks are, but it’s a good idea to use the tool, they are about $20 on Amazon. Good luck with your project man.

[@buttonysquare8501]

Basically what you are doing is putting a bit of drag on the pinion bearings like you would on a wheel bearing to where it’s not so loose that it wobbles around not seated in the race (0 inch lbs of preload, which is the same as your pinion nut coming loose) but not so tight that it burns up from being overheated due to friction. There are two cone pinion bearings on the shaft and they face towards each other with the crush sleeve in between both. As you tighten the pinion it sandwiches the crush sleeve between the two bearings and the pinion preload that is listed for your differential is sweet spot where both bearings are perfectly spaced and seated in the races properly. If you ever have to redo a crush washer they are cheap and the outside pinion bearing comes off the end of the shaft along with the crush washer on every differential but the seal has to be removed. Everything you read will tell you if you pull the pinion the crush sleeve must be replaced but I personally have gotten away with reusing them. As long as you have it at the mark on your nut or slightly tighter it should be fine to reuse the crush sleeve. They only say not to reuse it because if you go looser than the nut was before you took it off there will be a slight gap because the sleeve will be smaller, which is the same as over-tightening and backing off the nut. Hope this helps because this diff stuff was super confusing to me when I first started doing them and I didn’t understand anything.

[@broncwheeler]

Thank you for the videos! I am going to install my sniper system this week on my 75 f100. Have you had any issues with the system since the install? Seems like fewer people post there success stories versus there issues. Thank you

[@lock_to_lock]

No major issues so far! I’m definitely a fan of the Sniper EFI. Good luck with your project!

[@jorgefranco9957]

Awesome truck and excellent videos!!!! I have 79 with a 302 and would like to install a sniper EFI. Are you available for some consulting? Paid of course

[@ElectronicMechanic50]

It's definitely a great truck but it need dual exhaust and some rumble

[@lock_to_lock]

I agree!

[@corydriver7634]

Nice truck. New exhaust in the future?

[@lock_to_lock]

Yeah I'd like to do headers and an exhaust soon.

[@SuperKernel32]

My 78 F100 Ranger has square headlights

[@MarkEkberg-lr3yq]

This is a 12 cent item. Include it in the box of stuff. Bad bad bad on you Holley

[@lock_to_lock]

I believe the new generation Sniper EFI has a redesigned throttle shaft and plate geometry to alleviate this issue, but I can agree this linkage should have been included with the older kits.

[@gatorback16]

You lost me at U-joint holders.

[@lock_to_lock]

It holds the u-joint in there 😂

[@gatorback16]

@@lock_to_lock More the term/sarcasm.

[@chrisquintana3877]

Should have put a fresh u joint in while it was apart.

[@biglazybilly]

please put a new air filter kit on it