Project 2015 Outback: Front Hub Assembly & CV Axle Replacement! Calming The Noises In The Front End!

Please Like, Comment, and Share. Be sure to subscribe for future videos. Don't forget to hit the bell icon for notifications. KZbin has changed what they show subscribers!
Subaru Specialty Tools - www.amazon.com...
Subaru Head Gasket Essentials - www.amazon.com...
Subaru Timing Belt Essentials - www.amazon.com...
StoreFront - www.amazon.com...
If you like the vids and want to help make more: paypal.me/MrSubaru1387
----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.----

[@pbcanal1]

Person from New York here- Ha! I have spent hours just trying to get the pinch bolt out.

[@adambrown655]

three days with heat to remove a hub sometimes in ny

[@SGT_Reid]

Years ago, I was on the way back from Myrtle Beach and ended up getting a flat tire in the truck I was driving. I pulled off on the first road I could and it ended up being a sand road. I was in the middle of jacking up the truck to put the spare on and it started to rain. That’s when the fun started, the jack started sinking, so it was a rush to pull the old tire off and put the spare on while the jack started to sink. LMAO that was a rush

[@primemoverRR]

I grew up with my dad showing me how to work on cars, and it was actually therapeutic watching you work on this axle and hub assemble replacement. Thanks for sharing this info, Robert!

[@MrPoppyDuck]

Up here in the rust belt all that stuff is nicely fused together by rust. I use a 5 lb sledge hammer as a persuader :-)

[@benjaminfisheriv9340]

Turn the wheel so the back side of the hub is facing out and beat it like a red headed step child

[@rolandveloz2512]

I did this exact same job on my 2010 Subaru. What I used to install the seals was the piece of metal that mates with the differential, that is at the end of the axle that faces the differential. It is silver, and has a concave shape to it. Since it mates with the differential it is the perfect "tool" to use to tap in the seal. You won't over install, under install the seal or damage the seal if you tap it in. Just use a large screw driver and carefully pry the metal piece off the old axle, getting at it from different angles, so you do not damage it. Then just use it to tap the seals into place. No need to buy any special tools. Hope that helps.

[@bohdanked]

That's a great idea! I was just searching the web for seal installers and they are pricey.

[@patrickmercado5284]

Right sized socket never fails !

[@jamesbruno5896]

Thanks Mr S, I didn't know the axle seals were directional!

[@PRO4XKEV]

I got educated also.

[@BWGPEI]

That was a whole lot easier than I expected, even granted the hub puller. Being a rust-belt guy, I am used to wire brushing every bolt, greasing every set of splines and anti-sieze on every bolt shaft. I hope your good fortune continues.

[@mthompson1637]

Of course the axle's not stuck in the hub, must be a southern car😎

[@jasongreen5470]

Yes! He needs to work on on rust belt car

[@DustySteel]

If that’s the case, use Seafoam deep creep and some heat. Leave the wheel on but take out the center cap. Take off center hub nut about 90%. Hit it with a piece of wood and a BFH. When taking off the actual hub assembly I would hit it a few times with the BFH. Then I would take a chisel and use between hub and knuckle. If you don’t have a hub puller.

[@seanfrawley4263]

I have had a lot of success here in the rust belt with a slide hammer and hub adapter. Unless you forget to take the sensor out!

[@mph5896]

@@seanfrawley4263 Sensors usually don't come out in the north without breaking. I don't use slide hammers much anymore. Too hard on my body. Astro 78834 is what I use. Sometimes have to add on the air chisel to get the hub to spin and break free in the spindle.

[@berserkerusmc7613]

The metric system is evil, straight from the devil!

[@e048967]

Thank you for a very informative video. I completed the same hub swap today, and I was more confident in doing the job. It works great. Thanks!

[@patrickmercado5284]

I use anti-seize and or axle grease where I can to spare the “next” guy all the cussing, broken bolts and aggravation of pulling parts apart.

[@bullnukeoldman3794]

LOLOL!!! You're cheating again. I volunteer my 2011 with 181k miles for you to replace the passenger side hub/bearing in the same elapsed time as on this 2015. Shouldn't be too difficult - mine's only spent 12 years in the snow belt. I didn't use any special tools (I didn't use my Hub Buster on the driver's side ) when i replaced the driver's side hub/bearing and CV axle a couple months ago - I pulled the knuckle off the car and drove that sucker out with a 4# hand sledge over a couple concrete blocks. The toughest part was replacing the ball joint (broken rubber seal and leaking lube) - it was corroded into the knuckle and took some "persuasion" to remove and replace. LOLOL!!! Great video for the lucky viewers in the Southern states. Keep 'em coming - you've helped me immensely working on my two Gen 4 Outbacks.

[@fadingdimension]

I had to do the same thing. I first tried beating on the bolts from the back side and an air hammer on the hub lobes to try and spin it a little. Then the hole knuckle had to come off. I beat on it for about 1.5 hours, taking a few beer breaks. I am not looking forward to doing the other side.

[@jighflaukst]

I just recently became a subaru service advisor. Your videos are very helpful in my learning process!

[@rashidtayidi8370]

GREAT VIDEO WITH OLD METHOD SHORTCUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE TOE IN CAMBER NUT. THANKS.

[@kylerice9714]

Might as well replace struts though

[@dangercart8559]

Swapped out the wheel bearings on a 2006 outback. Avoided the calamity of rust and broken components by purchasing new steering knuckles, dust shields, and hardware. It was worth it.

[@subieracer005]

Also so nice they went to a bolt in style hub... no more pressing that crap out...

[@adambrown655]

it isn't fair how easy that hub came off for you...I need to move south

[@daved5244]

Gotta love the effects of no rust/salt. Wheel just falls off after loosening, (usually have to pound them off with a mallet from the back side) Rotor just falls off, dust shield is still there (most are non existent in the rust belt) axle not frozen in the hub, and hub not frozen in the spindle....im moving south!

[@mph5896]

I work on many makes of cars. Overall Subarus are simple to work on until you get rusty stuff. Then they become some of the most complicated makes to wrench on. They fail to take into consideration when engineering them RUST. They fail to factor in just a little more room on parts for rust. I have had hubs take 20 minutes to change out, and have had some that take 3 hours.

[@rodricktrinidad2928]

This is the best one I've seen so far. I've known about the pinch bolt and all but your parts came off so easily. But that brake dust shield off makes so much sense to see what you are doing.

[@supermotos]

You know you aren't in the rust belt when the pinch bolt comes out so easily without breaking

[@TheCrosscrescent99]

I came here to say this 99% of the time you’re replacing the knuckle when you try to get that ball joint out😂

[@amadafaka]

Especially when he used a pry bar to remove the ball joint out of the knuckle. I used an astro puller to get the ball joint removed. I used the Astro 78834 to pull out the hub and Astro 78620 to remove and install the ball joint. You are on your own with the pinch bolt.

[@spikez499]

You know you aren't in the rust belt when the brake dust shield is actually still intact 😄

[@jciarkowski3109]

Just like the wheel speed sensor

[@edwinstupka3645]

Just plan on replacing the knuckle ...

[@nairolfnednilruz]

I actually wanted to see a movie and then I was hooked on your clip. Which was excellent :)

[@pagestauffer817]

Thanks for the video! I just replaced the CV axle on my 2015 Forester and this video helped a lot. Unfortunately the dust plate on the forester doesn't come off so that was a pain haha. And I had quite the time separating the ball joint! Got it done tho! I'm also not a very car inclined person, so it says a lot that your video helped even me!

[@rockinrob2004]

Great job! You know your Subarus!

[@vr6muppet]

I'm going to buy one of those hub pullers. I'm deep in the rust belt. I have a hub shocker and I have still fought a few bearings even with it. You should get advertising money. I have bought a few tools from you videos. : P

[@kidwelldavid6136]

Thanks for the video.

[@MrSubaru1387]

You’re welcome

[@watchingdanny]

Love your videos. I recently did the seal on my Outback. I removed the hub and the axle fit through the opening in the knuckle. Looks like this would've worked for you too. Love your videos. I always check to see if I can just follow along.

[@drivewaygarage1561]

Thanks for the video, I just bought a 2013 Subaru Outback so I will be watching your channel more often

[@ismaelcalvente4427]

You do have all the right tool for the right job.

[@rcdriver107]

I love MrSubaru1387's Milwaukee tools so much!! I bet he loves them so much too!!

[@patrickmercado5284]

Ironic I was doing this exact procedure on my 09 Forester XT. Ex New England car. Pinch bolt took a bit but ball joint was the bugger. Replacing lower control arm so ended up beating the shit out of it. Was not planning on CV axle but it fell out at the engine side with exposed u joint . Gotta pop off remaining CV shroud/boot. Video identified my need for new seal so thank you for that. Do you have an online source for discounted OEM parts ?

[@hectorreymundo4215]

So cool, thank you much Mr.Subi, hope you get to work more on that Outback... cheers

[@davemcevoy8122]

I have a 15yr old Outback over here in the UK (England), and I have to work on the floor like you in this video. Good to see a professional doing the same. Can i ask where did you raise the car from with the trolley jack. I use the engine cross member. Great channel and big thank you from all your UK fans.😊

[@PatriotSteve]

Don’t know crap about working on cars but that was very cool.

[@bohdanked]

Nice! Was waiting for this video, have to do my front CV axle and seals on 2015 Outback

[@alanshaw6161]

Fantastic job. After seeing you do it I think I would attempt the same repair if needed. Excellent tutorial.

[@jshade9752]

Thanks for the vid. Great coverage with torque values. Couldn't be much better.

[@marcokapteijn4372]

This is like looking at a Bob Ross tutorial. Sitting in the sun with a beer and thinking, i can do that to. 😇

[@edwardmchedlidze2122]

Good video but gotta get that 4100 or whatever it’s called to take out the bearing would make my life easier fs

[@pandanoff]

I just replaced all 4 of my CV axles on my '01 Bean and a lot of stores/distributors will tell you both rears are the same. They are not & I found out the hard way, I had my car on jack stands in my driveway for a week because of this. Even RockAuto has parts on there saying both RR & LR are the same. Make sure you buy ones that specify RR & LR.

[@subieracer005]

If you've ever worked on a Subie, then you know right away if a lug stud is eff'd... They just have a "sound"... haha

[@estorey1465]

Great video, keep them coming , I've learned a lot about Subarus from your Channel

[@wim0104]

turns out the CV axle at the trans end is toast: they sure made a lot of improvements between 2011 & 2015 Outbacks: your sway bar end link is out of the way, and they made the hub's dust shield removable.

[@manhoot]

The little soo-bar-oooo. Wow

[@AntonyLD]

Great video. MY 2014 XV is a DOG! putchaced with 50,000 miles. At 60k all 4 wheel bearings replaced. next came both front wishbones due to bushes rotted and only able to get the whole units. Next at 65k the main drive shaft bearing which meant the entire shaft replaced!!! and both front brake discs warped then took under body trays off to find EVERY pipe and cable fixing rotted away completely and the factory rust protection only on 50% of exposed steel so lots of rot. At 70k the rear trailing arms and every!!!! suspension bush rotted. The central locking occasionally locks me in or out and the fault cannot be traced. The worst car I ever bought.

[@spdracer200221]

Turn the wheel to left give more play done like that many time allows for it to swing more

[@wim0104]

perfect, ty. I need to replace a CV boot, or more... wasn't sure how to avoid crushed fingers.

[@wim0104]

and do the ball joints

[@bergmanst]

I enjoyed the video.

[@MrSubaru1387]

Glad to hear it!

[@twrecks4598]

Couldnt you remove hub w/o undoing the lower ball joint and pulling the shaft out? Seems you could pull the hub out, then the shaft thru the spindle hole?

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Invest in a "Hub Grappler" One damned fine kit! Makes pulling hubs EASY!

[@user-ec5oe7qy4v]

Hey Mr. Subaru, Thanks for another video. I have a question regarding head gaskets on a fa20 from a 16 wrx. I'm replacing a short block and I am about to install the heads. The service manual says to apply three bond to both sides of the head gaskets near where the timing cover meets the head and block. I'm having a hard time understanding where exactly to apply the three bond. The oem diagram is pretty confusing to me. Do you have a video or a link with some better instructions than oem on where to put the sealant? I'm sorry this comment isn't related to this video . Thanks again for all the KZbin content.

[@canative2468]

How come you did not change the ball joint and lower control arm bushings, with 200,000 miles they're probably both bad. I do want to compliment you on using a torque wrench to tighten up your work these days very seldom do I see mechanics use a torque wrench to tighten things they just impact until head breaks

[@MrSubaru1387]

They’re both fine. Already checked them.

[@jacquesdahan494]

Perfect video, very professional

[@Toolaholic7]

Promaxx makes another version of the wheelbearing puller for Subaru.Uses the axle as a center support

[@markmills344]

Nice car.

[@chrisgreen5905]

I'm so happy you bought this car! First off, Denton is right down the road from me, so I thought that was cool, and then you essentially got my car (I've got a 2016 Limited). I've always wondered about doing a CV in this car, and seeing you do it, makes be believe I could do it to. As always, your videos are easy to follow and show all the steps. Thanks! I do have a question....what's the importance of the 1387?

[@KSReferee]

Question, besides the 2-way OBD computer to turn off the E-brake, which my local repair shop already has, what specialty tools if any are needed to replace the rear hub/bearing assemblies in my wife's 2015 Outback Limited? Thanks in advance!

[@mph5896]

Depends on if you are in the rust belt or not. Astro 78834, last chance hub removal is what I use for stuck ones. Even then, they don't want to come out.

[@PRO4XKEV]

Excellent.

[@peterrubin643]

Hello Glad I found your youtube channel. I have owned 4 Subarus in the last 20 years I currently own a 2016 Outback Limited 2.5 with 194000 miles. The car does not burn oil. Does not overheat. No head gasket issues. Changed the valve cover gasket. The dealer has done all the service. The car still drives solid. But, the car has that tick tick sound, like it needs a valve job. I have been told that is the sound of the Subaru boxer engine with a lot of miles. Whats your take Thanks

[@rafadalcol1907]

Great video! Do you have the spec for the seal driver tool? I’m afraid to try it with the punch and don’t get it flush

[@LoneWolfExplorer]

You made it look easy 👍 On my 2016 outback I notice on full lock turning left there is clunking noise, is a failed CV joint? It’s only got 60,000 miles on it though.

[@LoneWolfExplorer]

@@DaDaDo661 Well that’s good to know, thanks for letting me know 👍

[@Americansikkunt]

@@LoneWolfExplorerI don’t see the reply someone left in response to your question. Do you remember what the answer was? Or what the cause of that noise was (I have the same issue)?

[@LoneWolfExplorer]

@@Americansikkunt Yes I think I remember them saying that their one did the same thing but it was normal as they had it checked out at the dealer. Can’t be 100% sure though. It’s a bit odd how the comment has gone!

[@Chad47EE]

I just replaced the cv axles on my 2016 Forester XT. Clicking sound when i turned left was the reason. I thought, might as well do both. I followed the video to the letter, but now my car has a mean shutter. I immediately stopped driving it. The only thing i did different was the axles were from NAPA. Is this the cause of the vibration? Big fan of your channel.

[@bobmasters9449]

How do you know the axle needs replaced? Also, why don't you have a lift!? I guess you spend all your dough on tools 😅

[@MrSubaru1387]

Was popping when steering locked.

[@michaeldwyer5013]

But I didn't c u put any Greece in the spline and next time u pull the tie rod makes it easier send some of your tools u have it all

[@leosautobyleonardmware]

Its funny that the part number for the hub isn't available on the Subaru OEM parts finder catalogue.

[@ausmartin1]

I've never understood why North American cars/trucks have cross treated or stripped wheel studs. Maybe they should teach it at high school & even a separate lesson on installing & tightening sparkplugs 😂

[@Toolaholic7]

It is the person not starting them by hand first with no impact.

[@ausmartin1]

@Walter Frederick - you need to start by hand and set impact lower so final tighting is done by hand with a torque wrench is the correct way. Problem is many are lazy or do not know better or rely on torque sticks = lazy.

[@andrewvillavicencio8496]

Great video, thanks. Subscribed. My 2017 just had the left CV axle replaced (Not Subaru but their OEM brand called PDL) becasue it was making popping sounds while turning in the parking lot. They said the Inner/outer tie rods were good. My local shop changed it and now I am getting a metallic clank when I come to a stop, change gears and go again. I noticed it when I stopped at my mailbox, then put it in reverse to get into my driveway. I am currently at 115,500 miles. Any ideas? Thank you

[@stevenstuart3807]

Curious did you find out what the metallic clank was when coming to a stop? I have a similar issue after cv axle was replaced.

[@timbrown9731]

Interesting Subaru changed the torque on the Lugnuts on my fifth gen it’s 89lbs..

[@PRO4XKEV]

MR. Subaru speaks in Newton Meters.. it is still 89 ft lbs. 120-121 NM = 89 ft lbs.

[@timbrown9731]

@@PRO4XKEV no you’re right when I calculated it it was like 88……

[@guitarmanstamm1]

I would love to hear your take on an 04 XT forester with a constant cylinder 2 misfire with a brand new plug and coil pack.

[@GreatGrandmasterWang]

Head gasket??

[@SolHersh]

2015 forester is clicking while turning, 90k miles , while i do the axles should i throw on new lower control arms and sway bar links while its all opened up and before I need to realign it? thanks wouldn't want to do it again if they go out in another 10k or so

[@stevebates3574]

Thank you, Mr Subaru. Very helpful. Nice to know the shortcut for axle removal. Curious...what is the bolt that falls out at 8:37?

[@autoguygl]

Thank-you.

[@johnvvv3616]

Question, why do you not pull the bearing out first, then pull the axle out?

[@Mljotis23]

So wait? Is this because of an unknown rattling noise on the drivers sonde front? I have that going slow speeds over small bumps. It’s a little more extra than there should be. There should not be any. I attributed it to maybe a plastic covering underneath. But this makes me wonder. Was there another video as to the symptom that initiated this dix?

[@BenMitro]

You subarued the crap out of that right front! **YT algo only comment**. NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION.

[@Enkidu203]

@mrsubaru Quick question bud: appreciate your video. I’m also from the Appalachia area. Ever since I was forced off the road into a ditch on the side of the road it seems like my car makes a creaking, clacking noise during turns as well as a wheel wobble from 5-25 mph. I realized the axel CV is to blame. If I just need to change that and te rest of my wheel suspension assembly is good, how far in your processes do I need to go for my needs? Thanks in advance!

[@bergmanst]

At how many miles on the Outback would you consider replacing the Fuel Pump Assembly ? I have a 164K on a 2015 Outback Limited 2.5 The Fuel pump assembly part alone is $621.55 online price.

[@jeromegaces6184]

You dont need to grease the new hub assembly before putting it on the knuckle right?

[@mph5896]

Add something to it to slow corrosion. Grease, fluid film, white lithium grease.

[@riddellmeresell9045]

If some oil leaks out what’s the best way to replace. Also how to know how much?

[@michaelrice1373]

Mr.S., Just found ur channel & subbed. Once I had a '94 Legacy & it were one tight little sedan, it were. What do you think, generally, of the '15- ''19 Legacy models?? What a buy you got on that Outback! Take care, Mike

[@cslapler007]

HOW IS THAT AXLE NOT STUCK IN THE HUB AND JUST MOVES FREELY WITH A SIMPLE PUSH!?!?!?! THAT'S REDICULOUS. SAME AGE AND i HAD TO AIR CHISEL FOR 10 MINUTES! And that pinch bolt I broke off with one simple turn of the wrench, BAD DAY! Warm climates must be really nice to work on vehicles.

[@e048967]

My front passenger side is making a similar sound though during a recent brake change, they didn't see evidence that the hubs were in need of replacement. Similarly, you did t have the tale tell sign of hub movement. Is that common? Too, if I change the hub too, is it required to also change out the drive shaft or is that just preventative maintenance in case it too was compromised? Thanks!

[@robdunn4925]

11:32 WHAT'S THE PART NUMBER for those axle seals???

[@RedSinter]

So, that hub seat could you put some Never Seaze on it so if in the future if need be it's easier? I might have run some course Scotchbrite on the surfaces as well and then Never Seaze.

[@walterspringer565]

Excellent demonstration, had the struts already been replaced? What would this job cost at a dealership?

[@arthurmiller-vl6sw]

You don’t use spline lube on the axle before installing it into the Hub? Usually helps with the removal in the future.

[@MrSubaru1387]

Things don’t rust down here. Not needed. Lol.

[@patrickmercado5284]

Spine lube ? Just bearing grease don’t work for you ?

[@als.688]

Hey @MrSubaru1387 whats goin on man! Question for ya, i noticed @ 13:22 in the vid that you can see a bit of the flexplate/flywheel showing. I also noticed this while poking around my 2015 forester the other day. To your knowledge, is this supposed to be exposed like this or is there a cover piece missing?

[@arturassopis8137]

Can you replace only outside axle joint?

[@suzumr2754]

Quick question: For replacement of the front axle seal, I always remove the peice that spins out of the transmission as there’s a secondary (thinner) o-ring on that peice. Of course, i mark and count the amount of turns as the peice determines the lash of the front differential, but I was wondering if replacing the smaller o-ring is “necessary” compared to just replacing the bigger seal as shown in the video?

[@Americansikkunt]

Good question. I am wondering the same thing

[@jasonmueller1052]

ive seen so meny people take of the strut bolts and was woundring why not just take off the lower a arm bolt like you did and always have don myself

[@xebapro]

Please do steering rack preload adjust!!!

[@Jim_Jimworth]

How similar is this process for the 2010-2014 Outback generation?

[@MrSubaru1387]

Same. I have a video on the 10-14s though.

[@davidwayne9982]

I'd love to find a nice deal like this-- but I'd have to pay to have the repairs done as I'm 67 and got mashed between 2 trucks in 99 and not able to do them myself... which upsets me because I use to do all my own work.. and can't now.

[@mybugmy64bug31]

what is the part number for the seal at 11:46? is that part of the axle assembly?

[@johnhooey8299]

Thanks for the video. Is the Lisle hub pulled appropriate for the rear hub as well?

[@bergmanst]

Also. Dp you have any recommendations for a shop manual for the 6th gen outback.

[@XXForTehLolzXX]

Hey does it matter that the hub isn't flush with the knuckle?

[@luiscarrera5181]

Hi would you say this is the same procedure for the Subaru legacy?

[@kylerice9714]

Yes

[@luiscarrera5181]

Thanks for reply

[@johnvonwert6064]

My forester is making a noise on the driver side and figured it was the hub. How do you know the cv axle is bad?

[@jeremyhalliday7339]

Hi MR Subaru. I've watched your timing belt replacement video, i'm just wondering about the timing belt guide above the crank gear- is there a spec this needs to be in? Thankyou so much for your help! 2007 Aussie OB 5MT with 211kms! (131,000 miles) Cheers

[@traildevil67]

From my understanding, the automatic/cvt transmissions engine's do not have that guide. It's on the manual trans cars Incase it's in gear while engine is off and it gets hit/ pushed forward, it helps it not skip teeth.

[@chasedavies6055]

Did the axle come with the new seal?

[@aznstinky]

Can you address the ER HC code on the odometer of these damn subaru outback please