Best Metal Cutting Blade? “Dry Cut” vs “Abrasive” vs “Diamond" Blade. Diablo, DeWalt, Makita

[@ProjectFarm]

Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! Irwin: amzn.to/37mSyvC Diablo: amzn.to/3uOulr5 WEN: amzn.to/3M9Jfhd DeWalt: amzn.to/3EoABJm Makita: amzn.to/3OexYy5 Evolution: amzn.to/3uN5ILe Oshlun: amzn.to/37tE39c SATC: amzn.to/3xyxv40 Lenox (Diamond): amzn.to/3EjWPMp DeWalt (Aluminum Oxide): amzn.to/3uMRkma

[@randywl8925]

Re-cutting the angle iron after each of the harder metals to show how much damage the blades had sustained, was pure genius. I also like that you show the particulit count during cutting. 👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@tonywilson4713]

@@ProjectFarm I just made a similar comment in another thread and this is a great thing you do in your tests. You consider durability. I'm an engineer in the process of getting my own shop set up. And value for money is VERY HIGH on my priority list. I haven't yet decided on a power saw for cutting down stock bars. I'm even considering making one, like a power hacksaw because it can be made from a windscreen wiper mechanism. But no matter what I do I'd need blades and blades cost money. So for someone like me, who doesn't need speed but needs DURABILITY these tests are quite valuable. For me the Diablo wins just slightly ahead of the Irwin, not because its speed (which is in the middle) but because it (like the Irwin) handled "abuse" better than the others. My bet is some of the other blades would be fantastic in both speed and durability if they were kept to the EXACT metal types they are designed for. Great test. If you are looking for suggestions. 1) Portable power BAND saws like the Milwaukee M18FBS, Makita DBP and Dewalt DCS. Yeah I know they are pricey but maybe a couple of the suppliers might want to see a head to head. And yeah making a test rig might be a bit of a hassle but I can help with concepts. 2) Sabre (reciprocating) saw blades. Yeah I know you could do a dozen videos on the different blades available. 3) Small diameter circular saws (blades

[@TheGor54]

Cutting wax would have been nice.

[@dimesonhiseyes9134]

I agree. He often made subjective statements about damage in the past but showing the results in a fairly repeatable test takes it to the next level.

[@1rstTry]

With random punctuation and creative misspellings, I know you’re a legit. ✊🏻

[@theprairietinkerer]

Awesome video, and hearing Todd say, "Made in Canada" totally made my day. Working in a shop that does lots of fabrication, we use both dry cut and abrasive cutting wheels. Here are some observations we have made in their use. •Abrasive wheels are best for really thin materials, steel studs for example. Also for any cuts that you may want to make 'free hand'. •We've found that the dry cut blades cut best when they are only trying to take little 'bites' at a time. Lets take a piece of 2"x1/4" flat bar for example. The dry cut blade will cut quicker, cleaner, and cooler if the flat bar is vertical and taking little bites from the piece instead of it laying horizontal and trying to shave large amounts of material away. This is why when trying to cut the round pipe, some of the blades started cutting slow, then got quick through the middle, then slowed again at the bottom. •Along with the above observation putting the metal that is being cut at the center line of the blade, even slightly forward (to the front of the machine) helps with cutting. It can also help with safety. When the blade is cutting on a upstroke, we have seen the blade grab the work-piece and try to pull it out of the clamp. We always now set the work-piece so the blade cuts at 90° or slightly downward to the work-piece. •We have also found that cutting small pieces can cause blade damage. The small piece that is cut off can get caught up by the blade and thrown into the blade shield were it can bounce around and break the teeth of the blade. This is a common issue we have found. Keep up the great work, and keep safe.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.

[@HenningJohansen]

It's indeed good to see that some things are still being manufactured in North America. As for me, after viewing China trying to take over the whole South China Sea and Taiwan, it's ABC - Anything But Chinese.

[@lunchboxproductions1183]

A good solution to the small offcut problem is to make your cut 90% off the way through, retract the blade and then use pliers to break the remaining material. It does leave a burr to grind off but it's better than wrecking a $100 blade.

[@carstenhilbert5472]

Thanks for the tips.

[@bradywilliams2666]

What brand of dry saw are you guys using? We have been using Steelmax which I can send back to Airgas and they re-teeth them.

[@mandc20022]

What I love the most about your videos is, you get straight to the point and dont try to fluff the length of the video, this is the quality content I appreciate.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@AurumFaber]

At eighteen minutes, there is no need to fluff tbh

[@jameschupp2230]

The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN ! #2 Looser IS MAKITA ! But funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita... But I guess MONEY TALKS... How much did they pay him to say that??

[@SHADOW517joe]

You are the best, most thorough, no BS, objective independent testing channel ever. I appreciate your dedication and detail. Keep up the good work. You help us all work more efficiently and save us time, heartache, and money.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@timburke3096]

Uhh, no this metal cutting is not regulating the speed and feed so its just a joke. Slowing down the speed and applying more pressure is probably going to result in much better performance. If you can't see chips coming off your doing it wrong.

[@CharlesSmith-PegasusICS]

If only we had a cable news station as informative, factual and unbiased

[@Yourfavinsti]

@@timburke3096 ok tim 🤓

[@yeahrightmate]

@@Yourfavinsti Yep! there is always one.

[@noahleek9696]

You sir can be considered a hero, Atleast in my book. I can’t imagine how many hundreds of thousands of dollars you’ve saved your viewers. Thank you for everything you do!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@CarAudioInc]

lol they're entertaining, but take these with a grain of salt, there's soooo many variables unaccounted for

[@akivaweil5066]

Atleast isn't a word.

[@jhart7304]

@@akivaweil5066 but being a Typo Nazi is.

[@BruceNitroxpro]

@@akivaweil5066 , "Atleast" should be in quotes, should it not?

[@three3days4grace5]

“Let’s go ahead a skip the SATC since it doesn’t appear to be designed for cutting metal.” The most subtle and solid roast I’ve heard in a while. Great vid

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@DroidKill]

I like the new additions to the video: showing where on the graph your recommended blades stand, as well as suggesting other tools to use instead of the blades. I also like the data on the sound and particles. You can never have too much data!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback!

[@echadmiyodea]

Two things you may also consider. When I'm cutting metal i'm not concerned about how many seconds it takes to cut, and I always assume I'll have to deburr or dress the cut edges of the metal. What I'm concerned about most is if the cutting wheel will become damaged and how long a wheel will last over time.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@GoalOrientedLifting]

He kinda answered it with how many cuts of different metals the blades did and commenting on chipping

[@chrishayes5755]

keep in mind people want to know these details when they work in high production shop environments too. for them cut speed could matter a lot.

[@beeresq2646]

@@GoalOrientedLifting 100%. Watch to the end; the last segment is genius; revisits the cut time after intentionally damaging the blades with high-carbon steel. One of the most thorough videos I've ever seen on KZbin.

[@tubester4567]

These blades dont last. After a few cuts they are useless. Nothing beats a cold saw for cutting metal, unfortunately they are very expensive. Next best option is abrasive cut off disc, but they create a lot of dust.

[@drd9784]

I recently bought an Evolution saw like yours and it transformed my hobbying life overnight. Therefore, I was especially interested in how the Evolution blade held up against the others. Thank you very much for providing useful, real-world data that I can use when my current blade loses it's efficiency. As others have commented below, the revisiting of the angle-iron cut for time comparisons was a brilliant idea!

[@ProjectFarm]

Nice! You are welcome!

[@drd9784]

@@ProjectFarm I was wondering if you, like myself, tended to get hair-thin shards of metal puncturing your fingertips when working with metal only to be dug out with tweezers and needles at the end of the day? I struggle to find gloves that are impervious yet still flexible enough to give good hand-to-work feedback. Would such a quest be a suitable topic for one of your videos? Thanks

[@AbnormalAxis]

@@drd9784 I use the rubber coated waterproof type gloves for that same reason and they have been great but make my hands very hot and need to take them off quite a bit for relief, but then again it's been over 100 degrees in Texas for the last month. I had the palm only type but got shards on the top of my hand when using a lathe, so I got the full dipped version.

[@drd9784]

@@AbnormalAxis Thanks Jake I'll give them a go 👍

[@jeffshackleford3152]

@@AbnormalAxis you are a maniac using gloves with a lathe.

[@mylanmiller9656]

You did it again ! Just when I was about to pull the trigger on a cut off blade you do the test and make my decision easy. "Keep up the good work."

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@dannyzamudio1252]

@@ProjectFarmwould like to know, what kind of motor oil do u think is good to use.. what kind do u prefer? Do u think is it worth to spend the money on amsoil?

[@BenVanAmburg]

@@dannyzamudio1252 bruh he has done tons of videos on which engine oil performs best. You need to visit his videos page

[@dannyzamudio1252]

@@BenVanAmburg thanks man

[@chieftain20]

@@dannyzamudio1252 tldr any full synthetic will be best. Unless you're racing hard, even cheapo Supertech oil works for lubricating your engine properly. The thing that sets more expensive oils apart is the wear additives in the oil. You'll only see performance degradation on oil with high mileage, and even then the oil is still doing its job properly, it's the contaminants in the oil that causes the wear. My suggestion is to spend extra on a really good oil filter, throw whatever full synthetic your motor wants in it, and keep oil changes at 7500-10K miles if your motor stays relatively clean.

[@pinpetos]

I've used these quite often, and most blades like more pressure than what you've given. The upper range blades are very impressive though even under lighter load! Thanks for the testing; you're the tradesman's hero. ❤️

[@ProjectFarm]

Great feedback and thank you!

[@dimmacommunication]

You need to find the sweet spot

[@python3574]

I have an Evolution saw and you can't put much pressure on it or it drastically slows down.

[@dannybell926]

Milwaukee makes a great chop saw

[@schlomoshekelstein908]

usually these are on a $30 chop saw with the handled re-welded to 5' long so the little chinese guy can dangle his bodyweight off it while the saw is cutting

[@sixtyfiveford]

Haven't had too use an abrasive wheel on the chopsaw in years. It's miserable to use them anymore as they go so slow and make such a mess. If you need to do 30 cuts for a project, you'll spend 5 minutes with carbide or 20-30 minutes with abrasive.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@gresvig2507]

Used one of the new saws for the first time in the early 2000's, and all I could think was, "what have I been doing with my life until now?!" Haven't used an abrasive chop saw since.

[@andrewwoods2557]

You are using abrasive wrong, you can stack 10 or 20 stud in one cut with abrasive. Try that with carbide will destroy your blade. Carbide only comes out on top when you need clean cut.

[@masondegaulle5731]

@@andrewwoods2557 If I'm stacking for a cut, then it's my Hafco metalmaster sidecut bandsaw all day. Takes too long to set up individual cuts, but if I can stack the job, no brainer.

[@59jm24]

@@andrewwoods2557 Not true. If you force the cut it happens. NO DUST floating in the air.

[@logotrikes]

These comparisons are vital when someone needs good equipment and there is a bewildering variety from which to choose. Well done dude...

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@RealMrNails]

You should have given the Oshlun more love! For a "mid" to higher price range, it was one of the most impressive blades to me. LOVE the new grouping format to show why you made your choices though!

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point!

[@lelenbates3367]

I thought the Oshlun was also going to be the top blade.

[@batiusfinkius2923]

I agree, i was just going to post the same thing. Itwas always placed in the top few, was lower priced and cut well 👍

[@MattTrevett]

@@ProjectFarm Agreed with the others on this one. Oshlun performed well in many of the tests and ended up being the fastest after all the abuse. It withstood more damage compared to the more expensive blades and also had a clean cut every time.

[@edgarpryor3233]

That's the one I would spend my money on.

[@mudbugminitrucks]

I've tried several brands for cutting mild steel in my shop. I decided to stick with the Diablo brand. The price is reasonable and last for about 3 months with much daily use. I buy many things using your recommendations. Looking forward to the engine hone video. Great work.. thank you

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@scottsmith7080]

I can’t say the same. I’ve given up on Diablo- they just don’t seem to last. I’ve switched to Mikita- it seems to me to be the best overall value and bang for your buck. But as was demonstrated here, for the tougher steel, or rebar, I still drag out the old abrasive saw. Scott

[@mudbugminitrucks]

@@scottsmith7080 I actually gave my ole abrasive saw to one of my employees. I didn't like the amount of heat and sparks it produced. It also cut crooked. After experimenting with multiple brands, I found that the Diablo brand price point worked best in my shop. I'm not cheap, just think they worked best for me...

[@alexalex934]

Italians Do It Better ahahah

[@djordjejanuzovic4165]

I'm curious, do you sharpen the blade in those 3 months and then toss it, or does it last 3 months before you sharpen it?

[@jaydupuis4103]

Thank you for another awesome video! Who else would ever think of measuring the particulates in the air!? That's why you're the best Todd! Keep up the great work!

[@KevinSmith-os5yz]

Agreed, this was a great test.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@mlindholm]

As a measurable statistic, I agree! That said, it's one of the selling points of these over an abrasive blade, that the only debris from a TCT metal saw is metal flakes, versus the fiberglass, abrasive, and smoke particle cloud from an abrasive chop saw.

[@sshuggi]

I think the abrasive wheels have their own saws that run at higher RPMs, so it makes sense they performed poorly.

[@dimitar4y]

ye, higher speeds. The lower speed you go, the more they self destruct while cutting. If you go to their absolute max, you get highest life out of them, fastest cuts, but also most chance of dying to them exploding!

[@BL-yj2wp]

True. Abrasive cutting wheels are supposed to run at max. 80m/s, for a 14" blade that means 4300rpm - which is exactly what Dewalt specifies. This saw does 1450rpm.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@14goldmedals]

D Hristov that’s so true. I read about a foreman of a crew so he had experience, went to cut something steel off a truck. He had a 7” hand held grinder and his safety glasses but no full face shield. The blade blew up while cutting and a piece got him in the neck deep enough to cut into the carotid artery. This was in the section of a safety magazine made by the gov’t for tradesmen, called *Fatalities*. He didn’t suffer very long, it was that fast. Said he was a father with 2 young kids. The conclusion was always wear a full face shield that is long enough to cover your throat plus safety glasses as well. I watched the faces of the guys in the coffee room as they read it. He died in our city and as tradesmen we all stuck to that advice in the conclusion.

[@torinireland6526]

@@14goldmedals Had a close call, prevented by a face shield (impact-rated welding helmet, actually). I was kind of a newbie, cutting mild steel, and I accidentally exploded a grinding wheel. Probably half the wheel hit my face shield and bounced off... if that'd hit my face I probably wouldn't have a nose anymore... Another time, again when I was still a newbie, I exploded another grinding wheel and had a piece bounce down inside my face shield and bounce off my safety glasses. I was VERY glad I was wearing proper PPE. Always, always, always wear your safety gear - takes very little effort to do, and it just might save your life (or your face).

[@POLYMARC]

Merci! Your always there for me buddy thx you 😊

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!

[@jimaspinii7579]

Just rewatched…still such an impressive video. Your work is superior to some “professional” evaluation videos! SO we’ll done. Thanks for ALL the time, energy and great videography!

[@electronicsNmore]

I watched you make clean cuts through steel like it's butter, then I thought about people struggling to make the same cut using a hacksaw. LOL. Thank God for power tools! Abrasive wheels work, but as you showed, they make a big mess. Thanks for the great testing video! A++

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point on the huge benefit of power tools! Thanks for checking out the video!!

[@flhusa1]

hacksaws, handsaws, and yankee drivers. the very first cordless tools without batteries .

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Man, ain't so!

[@HenryDoohickeyII]

I’ve done a decent amount of metal siding and roofing for commercial work. Often times I find using the diablo or another metal cutting blade on a skilsaw gives me a quick clean cut for multiple pieces at once.

[@Mike-sy6oy]

Abrasive wheels are designed for much higher RPMs to work properly

[@orrinkelso9295]

The only steel cutting carbide blade I have ever used is the diablo steel demon in a 7 1/4 inch version. I ripped 6 feet of mild steel square tubing in half with it. I was very impressed.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@txtacos817-3]

Steel demon usually all we need in the body shop

[@nevinkuser9892]

​​@@txtacos817-3That's awesome. Thanks for sharing. I trust anything you say in that kind of environment.

[@StanleyMidling]

can you give me the link to the blade you use for cutting metal please ?

[@daineclark]

Thanks! I seriously can't go buy a tool until I've seen your unbiased comparisons. Can you compare the 5 3/8 and/or the 5 7/8 metal cutting circular saw blades that are getting more popular sometime in the future? Milwaukee, Makita, Diablo, Oshlun, and I think I've seen a Hercules brand come out with them so far. ✌️😁

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks for supporting the channel! I really appreciate it!

[@drizitgaming]

Been running a Diablo blade in my Milwaukee dry cut saw for years now. I don't do that much fabrication but just about everything I do is on 1/4" thick or more mild steel. So far there's no visible damage to any teeth and it still cuts fast and cold, after dozens of cuts. I have a Dewalt blade as a backup but so far it just sits in the package collecting dust. Blade longevity seems to be all about good fixturing and smooth firm pressure on the saw. Any bouncing will coat teeth, but once you understand that the blades seem to last a very long time.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@coltonjacobs5383]

As usual, great job testing these blades! My only criticism is that you used an abrasive chop saw wheel in a saw made for metal blades. The metal blade saw is only good for around 1400rpm, while a lot of abrasive wheel saws are meant for around 4000rpm. Still, the metal blades are clearly superior

[@boomerangfreak]

Same goes for the lenox diamond blade. it's meant to replace the normal abrasive wheels 1 for one in their application. So that should also spin around that 3-4000 RPM

[@jamesrussell6870]

@@boomerangfreak have you tried diamond in higher rpm regular chop saw?

[@MrChevelle83]

@@jamesrussell6870I have used a carbide blade to cut steel in a high speed saw It destroys the teeth if you run them too fast. dont do it.

[@sparkythebuilder]

@@jamesrussell6870 I have the Lenox blade on my Porter Cable chop saw. It cuts better than an abrsave blade but still leaves a pretty good sized burr.

[@spicywolf6718]

@@boomerangfreak meant to replace them, but they're loud, slow and utterly useless in smaller wheel sizes. I'd rather stick with Pferd abrasives than touch a Lenox wheel again. Cleaner dfadter cuts, only takes a few seconds to do the odd disc swap

[@bobbyd9319]

You are saving me time and money, and educating me at the same time. Thanks from Canada.

[@ProjectFarm]

Greetings and thank you!

[@kenlemmond673]

This channel has quickly become a must watch for DIY'ers everywhere! I watch a ton of KZbin videos and this channel ranks as a top 3 of all time! Keep up the great work in making all our lives easier!!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@robertlangley258]

Such great testing results, very accurate, very fair testing procedures. The best channel on KZbin for the every day working man. I’m sure this channel has saved people countless amounts of money. Wish I’d had this back in my day.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@Steelcrafted]

One thing we found is that we use 12" Diablo steel demon blades instead of 14"....about $30 less per blade, and the sfm actually goes down with the smaller blade, so possibly runs cooler than a 14"

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@robertfandel9442]

Impossible

[@Steelcrafted]

@@robertfandel9442 please explain...

[@lunchboxproductions1183]

12" saws are just better anyway, you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade. Sure you can cut 4" square tubing with them but it's not really what they're for. A 12" blade will have less deflection meaning more accurate cuts, and like you said the SFM guess down with the smaller diameter so they last longer.

[@Senkino5o]

@@lunchboxproductions1183 'you don't need the capacity of the 14" blade' "We only really need 100 miles EV range". It really depends what you're using that blade for doesn't it?

[@Osillius]

Recently started shopping for windshield repair kits (for cracks and chips) and thought that'd be a great video idea for you. Not only do you give great comparisons but I get some pretty good tips that product instructions and tutorial videos often miss. Thanks for all of your work!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the video idea.

[@mjremy2605]

I second this suggestion. Please, please make a video. Tired of windshield costly replacements.

[@ypaulbrown]

The Abrasive wheels, [DeWalt and Lennox] are really designed to be more efficient at over 5,000 rpm's , so comparing them to the slower speed running toothed blades is a little deceptive. overall a good comparison.

[@alphasigmasezon8597]

I agree with you

[@alphasigmasezon8597]

At low speeds - even wood saws cut through steel

[@alphasigmasezon8597]

I prefer Abrasive wheel

[@ammo021]

I made the mistake of running an abrasive wheel on a low rpm cut off saw and it wears the abrasive prematurely. It also damages the blade by wearing it unevenly and throwing off the balance making it unsafe.

[@ypaulbrown]

@@ammo021 thanks for sharing that information....even a wood cutting saw at 3500 plus rpm does not preform well with abrasive wheels...we had a 5hp 16" abrasive saw that could cut a 1" round solid bar in 1.5 seconds, not held in a vice either.....I cut a lot of material on that old gal......when it comes to 3/16 and 1/4 stainless , I use an abrasive saw and not a carbide slow speed chop saw, the blade life is to little when cutting stainless, even with the stainless blade, I have an Evolution 15 inch, and also a Dake 14 inch coolant saw that runs 80 rpm with high speed steel blades, but for fast cutting, and safe cutting, the abrasive is the tool to go to for me.....thin wall square tubing 14 and 11 gauge gets cut by band saw. with out coolant, as the Ellis uses rubber tires and can't use coolant, only air.....

[@Lucas_sGarage]

I'm the only one who doesn't use or need these tools but still watches the videos? Happy Easter everyone

[@stevehouston2053]

I live in a small condo but still watch.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching and Happy Easter!

[@gus473]

🐇 Thanks, Happy Easter! 😎✌🏼

[@TurtleWaxed]

I love your testing videos, it really shows that you put a lot of serious consideration of how to fairly and tortuously test everything you do. Great work. A true perfectionist at quality control testing products!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@FrederickDunn]

At 5:00 and other moments, ferrous material, non-copper pipe cuts. What happens if you cut copper pipe/tubing with these blades? I've always wondered what the damage and risks are? Ferrous metals only? Why is that since the other metals are softer?

[@420gzuz]

i've mainly used abrasive wheels so this doesn't necessarily apply to metallic toothed blades, but copper and especially aluminum have a clogging effect on abrasive wheels as well as flapper discs.

[@lerkzor]

The Wen blade was looking pretty good until the end of the series of tests. I would say that Wen blade would work well enough if you are only making several cuts through standard construction / hobby materials.

[@_P0tat07_]

I thought the same about the Wen blade as well. But then again, for the price I’d still say it seems to be alright, as long as you aren’t cutting armor plating with it

[@Realtime1501]

Wen for DIY projects and Diablo for job sites

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for he feedback.

[@lerkzor]

@@ProjectFarm And thank YOU for taking the time, effort, and expense of making these videos.

[@complexity5545]

Project Farm saved me. I almost pulled the trigger on getting that Wen blade. I cut hobby metals when I need to. I need to get into a computer that ....ding ding ding.... has armor plating. The Wen would have died on me. I tried to cut the metal on these armor plated workstation computer housings and it chewed through multiple jigsaw blades, and craftman aviation snips and I only made like a 3 inch horrible cut. I would have wasted so much time researching and might've bought the incorrect tool. I buy old server computers and reform them for newer builds since computer parts are getting crazy large and expensive. I can't believe armored plating is on all of these lenovos I got; its like trying to cut through a bank vault.

[@jimegan7077]

Within the past few years I've started doing some DIY metal fabrication, using mostly aluminum with the rare instance of steel. The Diablo blades have been incredible in aluminum. I worked them hard, maybe a little too hard. I had a few teeth come out and the blade was replaced under the lifetime warranty. I've since learned that Diablo has three different non-ferrous blades for light, medium and thick aluminum. I now own all three and use them appropriately. Anyhow, thanks for the test! As always, it's a great resource and (this time) confirms my choice of Diablo.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@Creptex]

You can cut aluminum with wood cutting blades if you need to

[@blackhawk7r221]

For aluminum fab, we use a woodworking compound miter saw with a common 80 tooth carbide woodcutting blade. No problems. In fact, when the cabinetry guys toss a carbide 60 or 80 because it’s a bit burnt for oak, it still works fine for metal shapes.

[@jimegan7077]

@@blackhawk7r221 Yes, I am aware that a good carbide tipped blade for wood also works. I use carbide tipped wood router bits on aluminum. But not my favorite, expensive bits.

[@blackhawk7r221]

@@jimegan7077 You are the man! I’ve never thought to chuck up a carbide bit on the shaper. I gotta go try it

[@kevinpunter7960]

This comparison review was pure gold and I really appreciated it as I'm in the market for this cutting capability right now. Thank you!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@robert5]

I would recommend a hot saw and cold saw. I bought both used. Unless you actually need the precision the cold saw provides use the hot saw. Also, use some type of lube on the cold saw even though it does not require lube it helps.

[@kevinpunter7960]

@@robert5 thanks - that's good advice. I can see the cutting bench looking like a little family of drop saws now ;) I have a Makita 355mm abrasive cut off saw - yeh, cuts ok, but can deflect a surprising amount. Shame Makita only seem to offer a 305mm cold cut off saw here in Oz.

[@LordHolley]

I went with the Irwin blade myself, I absolutely love it. I have been using it for several months, still cuts mild steel like butter.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@loosewirewire7954]

One thing that I love (and was so surprised by) about my Evolution blade is how cool the metal is after cutting. I had never cut any metal with anything but an abrasive blade so I was used to spring water on cuts to be able to handle them easier. With dry blades, they don't heat the metal up hardly at all. Most of the time you can handle it directly afterwards with bare hands. That blew my mind. That and the huge (in comparison to abrasive blades) chunks of metal bouncing all over. Safety glasses are a must!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@doug112244]

I've tossed a lot of parts out in the snow and mud puddles. I've also damaged rubber soled boots stepping on hot cut off pieces. The cool is attractive to me.

[@timlong1462]

Yep I have this saw and I was blown away the first time I cut some 1/4 angle with 2"legs. It was room temp! I'm replacing my evo blade with the Diablo just to try it out. I also keep an abrasive wheel for junk cuts, small stock that tends to grab the carbide tooth blades, and HSS or other hardened materials. Abrasive is cheaper and better for some situations.

[@kinbolluck476]

Jeeez

[@PaulTMaack0]

Holy cow! That's got to have been one of the most expensive videos I've seen. Fantastic work, and lots of great information. Highly underrated channel, even with 2.37M subscribers.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@stco2426]

Thanks for making this. I’m familiar with the Evolution brand and pleased you didn’t hit on them too hard. As others have said I also liked the fast aging of the blades to use harder steel. I mostly just cut mild steel. Abrasives have their place too!

[@DannyKechik_the_dizzydaisy]

Thanks for your valuable help, you helped a company " Shower Doors of Sarasota" here in FL to get the right blades for their workers, I always appreciate your videos and the fact that you fairly do all the tests without being sponsored is the best. - Dan

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Glad I could help!

[@maxcactus7]

Extremely informative and excellent methodology, as usual. Outstanding video, Todd thank you and Happy Easter to the Project Farm family!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Happy Easter!

[@benjaminbarr8714]

I'm always super excited when I see a new video is released, the amount of careful tedious repetitions he composes into short entertaining videos is amazing, we get to see very little of the effort he puts into these let alone the editing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@shepherd8762]

We used the Diablo blades in our pipe saw for skid 10 4-8" pipe cut quick and smooth. Skid 40 definitely took longer but we never seemed to have thermal issues. Love your detailed breakdowns.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.

[@conqwiztadore2213]

Sched****

[@Erik_Swiger]

I like the close-up shots of the blade teeth, and I also like that you increase the demands on the blades, and then go back and cut regular steel again for a comparison.

[@victorgomez6942]

Easter Sunday is starting out great. Thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@michaelobrien1839]

Just love your reviews they’re so sensible and honest and well thought about the testing procedures good job

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@TinMan0555]

I like Diablo blades. They always seemed to be up to the task, while still being (what I consider) a decent price. Thanks for the great test.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point!

[@boooshes]

the Amazon link shows the Irwin at twice the price

[@appalachiangunman9589]

I’ve used them on circular saws and they seem to hold up pretty good. Almost everything else in its price range is made in China. I’d rather support the Italians.

[@griffintaylor3861]

They usually are just a good bet for anything cutting related if you just need to buy a blade without research. Often not the very best, but rarely have I seen any diablo products I have been disappointed in.

[@tommymann69]

I always love the Diablo blades .. I use them to cut up all types of metal . Reciprocating saw and side grinder

[@deanlemke29]

Thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for your support to the channel!

[@eric_in_florida]

"High Densrty" made in China. No kidding lol.

[@ProjectFarm]

lol. Thanks!

[@Formerlywarmer]

😂

[@jamessheppard4372]

Haha lol

[@life_of_riley88]

Velly High Quarity!

[@Farm_fab]

That reminds me of a new type of screwdriver I saw at a local store. They are made in Asia, in a country that is communist, so the name really fits. They meant to say that they were magnetic, but the new type that they introduced is "machetic." If ya can't get the screws out in the conventional manner, simply chop the head off of the screw with this type, and start over. 🙄

[@tptrsn]

GREAT TESTING as always Todd!! I have a few of the blades you tested, and my anecdotal experience seems pretty similar to what you measured here. One thing I'm curious about but have never tested is the difference from using an abrasive wheel in the slow turning saw as in this test, versus using the abrasive wheel in the faster turning chop saw they would normally be used in.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.

[@Jcreek201]

Abrasive wheels are definitely designed to run at higher RPM. They're only benefit is their low cost and the fact that you can use them on a common chop saw without buying a dedicated dry cut saw. If you have a dry-cut saw, there's zero reason to use them. Slower, messier, less accurate, more heat = gross.

[@CreativityUnleashed]

I have multiple 14 inch chop-saws I have a rigid 14 inch low rpm similar to the evolution but all the different cutting blades I tried would only last 2 to 3 times longer than an abrasive cutting wheel. my normal 14" chop-saw is way cheaper to operate I can get blades for 2 to 3 dollars and if you know how to use abrasive wheels you can achieve very fast cutting sometimes you have to hit them to rough them up a bit if you have a habit of cutting too slow they get a layer on them which causes them not to cut well The main problem with abrasive wheels is when you try to cut like 45° angles and square tubing usually they become a compound angle and don't work right

[@tagminda4565]

@@CreativityUnleashed thanks for sharing sir.

[@nerd1000ify]

Generally when you slow down an abrasive wheel it acts 'softer' i.e. like a wheel with a weaker binder. There will be less heat buildup but the wheel will wear away more quickly.

[@FishFind3000]

I really like the small partial count. Every time I use my angle grinder I always end up with black boogers even when only cutting for a few minutes or less.

[@14goldmedals]

Isn’t that the truth brother! Huck a loogie onto the snow on the ground and it’s black. The new guy looks on in terror lol

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@fixitallpaul4847]

After 40 years everytime I cough up comes black. I am sure lung disease will be my exit.

[@aaron9783]

Use a p100 respirator for any grinding or welding

[@davepingel7447]

I had suggested this video probably a year ago and never checked to see if you had done it. I am pleasantly surprised at the outcome. Thanks for doing the work!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@funnguns1631]

One thing I did notice as an error in this video, the saw you’re using is a dry cut chop saw, runs 14-1500 rpm, which is great for the carbide blades. However the Lenox diamond blade you used is meant for an abrasive chop saw which runs 4-5000 rpm’s. Not really a fair comparison on the saw you’re using.

[@TheTallOne890]

To be fair a chop saw that is designed for that high an rpm is pretty expensive

[@TheDudeInTheWild007]

Bro shut up. You sound like a nitpicking nanny.

[@TheTallOne890]

@@TheDudeInTheWild007 but it is a fair point none the less even if he is being nitpicky

[@moparnut6286]

Still should have used a faster saw for the abrasive blades to be fair that's where they are designed to work at and the dry carbide are supposed to be used on a 3600 rpm saw by their speed rating. But I like the evolution blade overall and thinking of buying the Evo saw to get away from my old abrasive saw lots of dust with it.

[@funnguns1631]

@@TheDudeInTheWild007 it’s not nit picky at all. You’re not going to test a m18 sawzall vs a m12 hackzall and talk about performance deficits, same principle but completely different uses for the tools.

[@Fireball_Roberts]

I feel like the abrasive wheel is still a great option in many cases. It passed all the tests and only cost $8. Given how much wear each blade received, the price should be a huge factor since these things are supposed to be disposable. The expensive blades are probably more for specialty uses.

[@mattmanyam]

They're dirty, though... Don't want that crap in the air. Good to keep a couple around for tough cuts, though.

[@ZboeC5]

Chop saw with abrasive wheel is definitely my go to setup, it just works and the price is right.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@thaneirwin4688]

I think it depends on what youre using it for. I work in the Coal Seam Gas Industry and we are often replacing waterlines on wellsites that are made from 2" Schedule 160 pipe (around 10mm wall). We might do 15 cuts in a day. An abrasive might take 1-2 blades to do this and gets significantly slower as it gets smaller. You also heat the pipe alot and mess with the temper of it, causing it to thread poorly. And being on a Remote location creates a significant fire hazard. The carbide saw cuts in about 10 seconds per cut, Is dead square and required basically no deburring. The chips are relatively cool and We can do upwards of 3-500 cuts per blade. At 12x the price of an abrasive can very much be worth it. Not to mention being less fragile and the saved time changing blades. For a home user. Abrasive may be the way. For a poweruser - Carbide all the way.

[@geoffmooregm]

@@thaneirwin4688 Agreed abrasives are only good for hard steel that would otherwise damage a carbide or cermet blade. For example if you had to cut a drill bit or grade 8 bolt. Otherwise a toothed bit rules in accuracy, life and speed.

[@MagneticMoose]

Thank you for the awesome video as always! Some video ideas are, pancake air compressors, wire cutters and crimpers more specifically, voltage meters, heat guns! Just things I’ve needed for a project recently and had no solid reviews anywhere!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks or the video ideas!

[@MarkAAshdown]

Thanks

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for your support to the channel!

[@legionjames1822]

Fun fact the A.R. in a.r. plate stands for abrasion resistant. It is used in armor application by the military and others but also in buckets for constuction trucks and other stuff.

[@volvo09]

Nice thorough test! Really enjoyed the retests on the angle iron after abusing the blades. Each type has it's uses. You wouldn't exactly use a premium blade to cut up thousands of rebar on a jobsite :)

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@Radbot776]

The best for metal is the regular grind blade, just buy a bunch and wear them down until you can’t use, blades for steel is plain stupid it’s only good for aluminium

[@pinpetos]

@@Radbot776 That's certainly an opinion. If you have thousands of cuts and live in a country with high labor rates, it doesn't hold up. If you're cutting material which is metallurgically sensitive to heat, they're a terrible decision.

[@ObservationofLimits]

@@pinpetos if you had heat sensitive materials, they'd be cut under coolant under a band setup optimized for cutting time over heat. So your argument is fucking irrelevant.

[@ObservationofLimits]

@@pinpetos also wtf do "high labor rates" have to do with using abrasive cutting wheels vs blades? The cutoff wheels cut far faster, take 30s to replace - less time than you're losing on every single cut you make with these shitty toothed blades.

[@davidfrancis8761]

Thank you for this very informative video. I was considering a chop saw for my hobby workshop, your findings has given me food for thought. Thanks to the commenters for point out the speed difference for abrasive wheels.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@richclay4209]

Been watching for a couple of years now, keep up the good work

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@wiktorgliniecki9571]

Thanks for doing these tests and reviews, they definitely save a lot of people a whole lot of money and time! Gob bless you and happy Easter!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you and Happy Easter!

[@acoldguy2381]

At my work the safety manager decided that our old abrasive disk chop saw was dangerous because it produced sparks. The old saw was removed & a new Diablo saw was installed. The Diablo blade lasted ~ 30 seconds!!!; The teeth chiped or broke off completely, we installed a new blade with the same results! We dont use much mild steel, ours is high strength hardened steel. We have had to revert to using hand held grinders & cut off tools. Thankyou management; maybe you should get out of your office watching KZbin videos & learn what the workers have to deal with.

[@olivertaylor8788]

That's right..I had the same problem,went back to abrasive blades. I cut g70 and g80 meterial,

[@serdardemli1963]

TABLES 06:22 Time to cut through mild steel tube (seconds) 10:40 Average cutting speed through angle iron (seconds) 10:50 Small Particle Cut 13:00 Cutting Speed through 4140 (seconds) 13:13 4140 Metal temperature (degrees F) 14:41 Angle Iron Cutting speed after cutting 4140 steel (seconds) 14:55 Cutting Speed Efficiency after cutting 4140 (% Increase) 16:50 Angle Iron Cutting speed after AR400(seconds) 17:06 Angle Iron Cutting Speed after cutting 4140 steel (seconds) 17:10 Cutting Speed Efficiency after cutting 4140 (% Increase) 17:15 Angle Iron cutting speed after cutting 4140 steel (seconds) 17:18 Cutting speed efficiency after cutting 4140 (% Increase )

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching!

[@beardy4831]

I'm glad you went back to the angle iron after the harder metals. My experience trying to use the 7.25" Diablo blade for circular saw is that the first few cuts were good, but then the leading edge of the teeth dulled out and now even pushing really hard it just makes the metal hot and won't cut.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@american7169]

My experience long-term is the Evo blade that came with my Evo saw is a good blade, it doesn't last as long as the Diablo though. Still have an abrasive for hardened steel is a good idea.

[@Boabreath]

One of your best videos yet! I really appreciated the inclusion of air quality / particle count data and delta-T on the 4140. Would have liked to have seen results on stainless, as many blades marketed for stainless cutting are very expensive and I wonder if they're actually superior (Champion and Evolution-brand blades come to mind).

[@ProjectFarm]

Awesome, thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@suneborgstergaard7331]

@jt354 in my experience non of these "dry cut" blades handles stainless very well. Regardless if they are marketed as such. Blade is dull in no time

[@dirtroadsailing6418]

This makes me feel good that the Diablo steel blade I just bought for my circular saw to cut some unistrut finished in your top 3.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@therealsparkman]

No sense adding what has been already stated some five thousand times in the comments, but sir, your videos are very succinct and direct. Well done as per usual. Cheers!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@Euronasa]

This is probably the best and most informative video I have ever seen on KZbin,😀🤗

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thanks!

[@Guido_Sarducci007]

Proj Farm has become my "Go To" when researching new shop equipment! Saving me endless hours on online searches. Thanks again!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@eggsngritstn]

I was pulling for the WEN. I've had good results with that brand punching well above the price point. Apparently this isn't one of the better examples. However, if you're buying a blade for a single project with only mild steel or nonferrous metal I suppose it would be a reasonable choice.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@SkidMarks59]

WEN started out strong then faltered. Like you, I had high hopes for it.

[@superdau]

After this test I would actually buy the WEN. I would have cut harder steel with an angle grinder and thin cut off disc anyway. And for softer steel and all other metals the WEN seems quite usable for the price (for someone who's job isn't cutting steel on a daily basis).

[@ILruffian]

Whatever you do, don't buy the WEN drywall sander. I ignored the load of negative reviews (all talked about the pad not being flat), figuring it could not be possible. Sure enough, my experience was the same. Bouncing, skipping, destroying the wall. Ended up with Festool Planex 2.0.

[@Doramius]

Been watching your videos for over 4 years now. Absolutely love them. I was surprised you didn't use the thermal camera for checking the temperatures of the metal, but maybe there was a reason for it. Still great video. Would still love to see arc welders in a showdown.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the video idea.

[@urban2153]

With the understanding this is mainly light/portable cutting. High carbon or thick cuts are back at the workshop with a bandsaw running coolant. Thanks for testing on our behalf. Very informative.

[@shaynecarter-murray3127]

It never ceases to amaze me how distinct the diminishing returns are beyond a given proce point. Sure the makita is faster than the diablo...but it enough faster to be worth double the price? And the Irwin blade really suprised me.

[@KansasFarmer]

Thank you for getting around to do this test. Unfortunately I went ahead and bought the diamond blade. It is definitely slower at cutting mild steel but I'm not going through abrasive wheels like I use to. The diamond is a lot more durable than the abrasive. Another nice thing about the diamond blades is that it doesn't shrink like the abrasive wheels do. I didn't even think about the carbide blades for cutting metal. Oh well. Maybe in about 10 years I will get one those. Lol I don't know how long the diamond blade will last. I don't have metal type projects everyday. So it will probably last me 10 years. Time will tell. I've enjoyed all your videos thus far.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for sharing!

[@BraveLoch32]

My conclusion seemed to rest on the Oshlun overall for cost + speed + durability and others. Thanks for the hard work.

[@jameschupp2230]

The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN ! #2 Looser IS MAKITA ! Yea, it's funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita...

[@DouglasOYates]

I love this channel and it is my go-to very often when deciding what to purchase. Very well done! I came to this site with intentions of purchasing a chop saw and blade in the near future and this was most helpful. But I would like to caution one thing not directly addressed here and that is the maximum RPM rating for these blades which can be seen when he shows the face of each blade to be in the 1600-1800 RPM range. The Evolution saw used for testing in this video runs at 1450 RPM as stated by the manufacturer. But, many chop saws on the market run considerably faster up into 4000+RPM range. This may be appropriate for the hard rock type blades that are supplied with those saws, but not for these steel type blades shown here. Be prudent with choices and observe proper safety warnings. Match the blade to the tool appropriately. Thanks again for the great tests you do!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@chrisretired5379]

Awesome video thank you ! My small metal shop has an older EVO 380 saw, and always has had the 16 inch Evolution blades. For longevity those seem to hold up very well . Only cutting mild steel rounds, square , angle and solids. I break a blade in with a short cut into some brass stock.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

[@marinijaish]

The abrasive wheel is designed for 4000 rpm so with a faster saw designed for abrasive wheels you can expect better results.

[@SHADOW517joe]

Not as far as a "clean cut" I've never seen an abrasive cut like the Makita or Diablo.

[@marinijaish]

@@SHADOW517joe my point was it would cut faster with a faster saw, not make a cleaner cut

[@SHADOW517joe]

@@marinijaish was I supposed to divine that with magic? "Better results" is pretty vague compared to "faster cut."

[@marinijaish]

@@SHADOW517joe wow

[@LemonySnicket-EUC]

​@@marinijaish I agree, Wow!

[@johnnynephrite6147]

The Lenox is using abrasion so of course its slower and creates more heat. It will probably cut stone, tile, and brick a lot better than the others.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@mrfingers4737]

The only thing I've use the Lennox abrasive on is cast iron pipe.

[@malcolmjnbaptiste154]

As usual, the best video for comparing products, saving you time, money and heartache. You are the greatest. Keep up your excellent work.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do!

[@Leron...]

I love the lack of brand bias. Even though your saw is made by Evolution you didn't try to skew or push the outcomes to rate that brand higher.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@14goldmedals]

Project Farm it’s your honesty that got me to subscribe long ago. You’ve built your successful channel on integrity, keep it up. Hip hip hooray from a Canuck 🇨🇦

[@jasonwood7340]

Interesting video! Working with AR plate is brutal. Side note: The dewalt chop saw abrasive blade only used up 1/8", measuring across the whole blade means your measurement is doubled to 1/4". The machinist part of me had to say something 😁

[@tonymonroy2659]

The blade lost 1/4 of its cutting capacity. He is correct.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Another bunch bites the dust! THANKS, Commander! I only recently even got a metal cutter for my 3 inch DeWalt so this leaves me in the dust sure enough. I've always just used a grinding wheel to score the piece and then frailed it to the breaking point with the hammer of the day. The cut off discs really surprised me on their true cutting and with the ease they do it and there are discs made for cutting all sorts of stuff. I've got an old Makita compound miter saw that was worn out when I got it and it's a wood eater only. I can get by with the DeWalt but I know where torches are if I have to go heavy duty. Thanks for a wonderful test, be BLEDSSED and Jesus is up and active! GBWYall!

[@ProjectFarm]

Hi Lewie, Thank you very much! It's sort of painful to practically destroy so many fine blades all at one but it's important testing that'll hopefully help people select the product that's best for their needs. Great point on reaching for the torch when needed! Always great to hear from you, Happy Easter, and wishing Yall many BLESSINGS!!!

[@Luis-ic8ej]

Thank you for all your videos they have saved me a lot of money buying the right tools for the job that give me best bang for my buck. I really appreciate it.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@porkrinds9572]

I guess it really depends on the overall application, but I would figure the IRWIN & OSHLUN came out on top. Especially if you consider cost as an important factor. Ultimately more usage/base-material testing will give a clearer result (unless your need is for immediate performance with little overall use). Despite some of my technical issues with your videos (which are very few), I must say-- Excellent work, as always, Sir!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@1014p]

The AR-400 was good enough to test endurance roughly. He isnt going to cut 300 times with a blade.

[@jameschupp2230]

The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN ! #2 Looser IS MAKITA ! The MAKITA is 46% Slower!

[@bobuncle8704]

I use the Diablo myself, and have had great success with it. A local heat treating company also does cryogenic treating as well. When I have my blades treated cryogenically, I get a much longer life out of them. More than twice the life

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@wormfood868]

I think this would make a great episode; take top performers from other episodes (drill bits, saw blades, pocket knives) get them cryo treated and do the tests again and see if there's any benefit. Cryo is intriguing but the claims seem too good to be true; it would be nice to see what kind of a difference it makes.

[@bobuncle8704]

@@wormfood868 yes. Good idea. It’s not that expensive a process, but I’m not set up for good verifiable testing

[@lindboknifeandtool]

You can get good, appreciable results with solvent and dry ice at home. A guy did a test on drills

[@bobuncle8704]

@@wormfood868 I don’t have the test results in my hands, but a local box company gets all their slitting blades treated, and their claim is three times more life on average. Take that for what it is. A large well know manufacturer uses this process. That was good enough for me to try it, and my results are similar.

[@Arfonfree]

This made me quite happy that I just got a 3M respirator for wearing in the shop. That's a lot of potentially nasty dust! Which leads me to suggesting a test of particulate filter masks.

[@highstreetkillers4377]

They're useless. I worked as a millwright in a brake shoe recycling factory. I know all about dust clearing 3 ft high drifts of brake dust to fix machinery. They all do next to nothing to stop dust. If you want actual protection you need a respirator with those pink dust filters. And if painting you need the charcoal filters on there also

[@jessedelgado1505]

This was the best show and tell for me! Years of abrasive wheels.. Thanks!

[@timerickson7056]

I'm old when I first used a metal chop saw was in the 1980s It had a abrasive wheel and was scary. I was told to stand as far off to the left as possible because there was more safety guard on the left side . There were a lot of holes in the wall behind the saw from blades exploding. It never exploded on me but I only used it to cut airoquip lines . I used a torch to cut everything else . .

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@J-1410]

That's a new one, exploding blades. I suppose it is possible

[@timerickson7056]

@@J-1410 No that was a abrasive wheel that exploded they get too hot the adhesive let's go. My concern with blades is the carbide teeth letting go. It happens often in sawmills where they saw lumber. I worked in a mll and they tried not to by timber cut from small properties or farms specifically for fear of hitting nails an sendi teeth flying. They heavily discounted the price they'd pay for the timber . Now larger mills x-ray logs before cutting them . Saw blades fail all the time my point was about safety . I personally think the diamond impregnated wheel would be the safest from throwing chunks like a grenade

[@typgamer]

Can you film a video about different automotive sealants and how they hold up to diesel, motoroil, gasoline and coolant and how flexible they are? As a mechanic this is a very interesting question, everybody swears by some different product.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@wszczebrzeszyn]

Oshlun should also be mentioned, it performed really well.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the constructive feedback.

[@Apollyon67]

Agreed. It looked like it was very consistent in all the materials and kept it's integrity. It will be my next blade when the Diablo that is currently on my machine can no longer be sharpened.

[@FREEHAND.WETGRINDER]

I've said it before and here it is again. You do these tests as complete as you can in as quick a time frame as possible. I always check your channel for reviews before I buy stuff. Now that I made you blush what I would love to see is a video showing a test as normal for your channel but also film the process. Getting your samples, designing your test jigs. Release the test as normal then release the Behind the scenes the next week. Picking the right test subject this video can get passed around more and likely to boost your subs! A fun test for this is Squirrel proof bird feeders. I didn't see one from you. Buy some feeders and even make a design of your own, just for fun. Thx again for all your effort.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@fishingwithash4376]

Anyone else watch this to sleep 😂

[@pacopet1234]

You caught me haggaah

[@dougjb7848]

Hopefully not while using any of these tools …

[@CheeseBurgerXJ]

@@dougjb7848there was druggie working in the weld shop with me and he’d be nodding off while using a grinder😂😂idk how he didn’t hurt himself. He lasted about three weeks before getting fired

[@l.no.solace7209]

Almost every day

[@tbix1963]

Not intentionally, but since I’m forced to replay the videos it does increase his play count. Maybe it’s intentional?

[@DoomieGruntVentures]

I'm barely any DIY specialist, but seeing videos like this makes me think about having my own shop to tinker inside of. Diablo seemed like a good balance between durability and affordability.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing!

[@RARufus]

Out of all the saw blade comparisons, I’ve learned Makita is making some pretty good blades.I have the 7 inch Diablo blade and it’s worked great so far. I was floored some time back when I learned there were circular saw blades that would cut steel like butter. They’re really great tools to have in the Arsenal!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@jameschupp2230]

The #1 Fastest WINNER IS OLSHUN ! #2 Looser IS MAKITA ! It's funny how he choose the 46% Slower makita...

[@Ritalie]

So a long time ago, I wanted to cut open some free refrigerator pumps that I had found, because I wanted to make an air compressor. My parents didn't buy me an air compressor, and the thought of buying one somehow never crossed my mind. So I'm not sure why, but I took my Makita worm drive circular saw with a 7 1/4" carbide tooth framing blade on it, and I ended up cutting open a solid steel refrigerator pump casing, that was almost 1/8th inch thick steel. The framing blade cut through the steel like butter. That was long before anyone talked about using carbide tipped saw blades for steel. I think it was my neighbors grandpa who gave me the idea, because I'm sure I didn't think of it on my own. To sum up the story, I ruined EVERY wood blade I had by the time I finished cutting open 4 refrigerator pumps. The carbide at that time was only C2 or C3 carbide. But, it would have been a nightmare with a grinding disc, because of how thick the metal was, and how much heat and sparks would have been created. The pumps are filled with oil too, so there is an oily residue on everything.

[@GoalOrientedLifting]

@@jameschupp2230he chose it cause it's better

[@bestman7776]

This channel was the first channel I ever subscribed to

[@ManWithBeard1990]

Just so you know, technically the regular kind of tungsten carbide you use for cutting is also a cermet.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@dimitar4y]

as usual marketing. What it really boils down to is the material being correctly made and not polluted or poorly mixed. A lot of these companies have budget metallurgy and sell you stuff that is, "Technically", the stuff, and others over-advertise the technology as if they are the only ones doing it. Marketing wank while they sell you inferior stuff to what the industries have access to.. Store drill bits snap at 1-4kg of pressure, industrial ones can take all 100+kg before they explode violently..

[@nerd1000ify]

In machining contexts 'cermet' usually implies a different ceramic from tungsten carbide, e.g. titanium carbide (note that most 'tungsten carbide' contains stuff like this as an additive). Cermet tools are considered to be more brittle (less able to handle interrupted cuts and general abuse) but more tolerant of high cutting speeds that cause a lot of heat buildup.

[@ManWithBeard1990]

@@nerd1000ify I agree. But I was thinking in marketing context words tend to mean whatever you can get away with.