How to build a Super Strong Stud Wall For Heavy Loads

[@garulusglandarius6126]

Hey Stuart, I’ve noticed recently that there is an increase in haters/critics. It appears to be a trend of late for the less than intelligent to embark on a campaign of negativity across many popular channels , ignore them as they appear to have nothing better to do. Excellent as always Stuart 👍👍

[@adeh503]

@@garulusglandarius6126 Your cheques in the post 👍

[@1980NightFire]

So your saying that any half decent builder or carpenter are stupid? Since there is plenty wrong with this example of a stud wall. 400 centers is more than just so it fits to the board, and has everything to do with structural integrity and building regulations. I mean fair enough the wall is not load bearing (which actually is the term used when the wall supports the floor above and has nothing to do with hanging a sink off it). But because of the load you are putting on it with the excessive spacing between the outside studs, that wall will eventually twist and warp. Also good luck to any electrician that comes after you that wants to run some wires through it, say for a shower or a heated tower rail for example.

[@adeh503]

@1980NightFire Absolutely correct, I'm a carpenter and this is not the way to do this job, if you're looking for ideal areas to fix sinks etc you fix a peice of 18mm ply in the framework to maintain your required 400mm centres allowing the fixture to be located in the preferred position. Changing the structure of the framework is amateur.

[@johnoneill3260]

I think to be fair this guy is not suggesting he is a professional carpenter/builder. He is a DIY er. It is pretty easy to research how to put up. “Proper stud wall”. I think he is showing people they can take stuff on themselves if they choose to do it.

[@1980NightFire]

​@johnoneill3260 To be fair doing something like this is flat out dangerous, would you want to be stood in front of the mirror, when that wall eventually fails?

[@AndrewCoakley]

13:46 The @CharlieDIYte collab we didn’t know we wanted!

[@sebrickard7356]

Everything I’ve been doing at home in DIY terms over the last few years, I’ve been constantly learning from you, Keith Brown, Robin Clevett and Peter Millard. Such a great resource. Thanks.

[@flemmingaaberg4457]

I bought a 3 axis laser level after watching an earlier Proper DIY video - best purchase I have ever made. Having done similar jobs as a DIYer I can say this is another excellent DIY video from Stuart.

[@DavidLee-jn6op]

Clicked the link, exact model out of stock. Ordered one of the recommended alternatives, hopefully the channel is still credited.

[@OathoftheAbyss]

Only use 400mm centres if you are using full 8x4 sheets of plasterboard. If you are working alone, the smaller 900x1800 boards are a lot more manageable, and they require 450mm centres.

[@mitchell5170]

Great job. My top tip for cheap masking tape is to put the roll in the microwave for 30 seconds just before you use it and then it peels off the roll a lot easier and sticks much better.

[@garulusglandarius6126]

Worth a go 👍

[@NoodlesR6]

What? No way f#*sakes

[@Dr.Stacker]

is that using the customers microwave hahaha

[@asabriggs6426]

Great to see you are cracking on with the indoor stuff now that the garden is resting. Job's a good one; interesting thought process around the stud spacing for the specific job at hand.

[@Milner17]

I have to say Stuart, I’ve been watching you for a few years now and everything you do is always to perfection 👌🏻 great job, coming from a chippy 👍🏼

[@XL-5117]

No hater/critic, just casual observer!! It’s nice to see my man getting back to diy, bring him back to what he’s good at, a mean lean diy machine 😂

[@jj95956]

Nice video, thanks! If you're not too sure where heavy fixings will go or want belt and braces, you can osb/ply over the studs before the plasterboard. This also helps with sound & thermal insulation. If you osb/ply first then you can then use those XPS filled tile backer boards which give a bit more thermal insulation (obviously only for tiled area) and are very easy/light to work with Ignore the rockwool haters, it gives better sound insulation, vermin hate it (they'll happily nest in glasswool) and has a higher fire spec

[@c.a.g.1977]

Well done, Stuart, you make this stuff look easy!

[@kendom33]

Great video Stuart. You do make it look easy though! Just completed 2 walls (after the joiner disappeared) didn't get the plasterboard tight to the ceiling. So now a slow process of filling.. thank you

[@johnkarapita437]

The things you learn on You Tube: it was a revelation to learn, as a Canadian, about the Canadian Lumber Standard for the studs, which we also call two by fours like our American friends. That may sound very strange and odd but that Canadian Lumber standard is not just commonly referred to here or used at least at the retail or consumer level, in my experience, anyway, which may mean absolutely nothing. When you mentioned it in this video, it was literally the first time I had ever heard of it, ever. Apparently it is a "thing" in the UK but not here. You walk into a Home Depot in North America, for example, and if you can find any studs that are not warped, bowed, checked, or generally resembling hockey sticks, they will not include any mark for the CLS but I think they do include a so-called Grade rule "NLGA" and "SPF" for Spruce Pine Fir etc or heat treated. Anyway, that aside, interesting project that was very well done. That 3 way laser is very cool! Also, I find the bigger drywall knives make it a lot easier for this amateur to apply and taper/feather out the mud and are generally well worth the expense. It sure does help to plan for and consider various fixtures, mirrors, towel racks etc. when installing studs for a bathroom.

[@OllyParryJones]

Really good to see you plan and think through your stud arrangement. Too many people knock them up to get the job done quickly and then encounter problems later. 👍 Looking forward to future videos.

[@DaveAndHisTank]

Thanks Stewart, turning an internal doorway into a built-in bookcase this weekend so great timing for me 😊

[@alienpredator007]

Would it help the sound deadening to decouple the plasterboard from the studs by using expanding glue?

[@K_Grude]

Placing the bottom plate and the top plate parallel to each other on the floor the positions of the studs could have been marked on both pieces with your pencil and a carpenter's square. After the top plate is fixed, the studs would not need to be checked for spacing or for vertical accuracy. Love your videos!

[@techieboy333]

Hah. My DeWalt DC273N just arrived two hours ago for the express puropse of removing some tiles and more importantly the adhesive they leave behind. Glad to see the chisel function works well. 👍

[@johnjoeflanagan]

An excellent instruction guide, presented honestly and engagingly. Well done!😊

[@terryroberts5221]

Great video as usual Stuart. Be honest, did you board yourself in the new room and then have to cut your way out to escape?

[@RiBenjafield]

Love this video Stuart, you explain things so well. 👍

[@JamesMcl]

Every time i have an idea for at home, you seem to make a video for the job i want to do. Great timing. Keep up the well explained and informative videos. Thank you.

[@SteveMonk1956]

Thank you for yet another excellent video Stuart, this channel is one of the best out there for DIY help, hints and tips.

[@shaun30-3-mg9zs]

Hi Stuart, Good tips and advice as always, looks hard but as you say it can be done. It's good if can remove tiles without breaking any always handy as spares. As always a great video

[@tureq85]

i think the moisture and/or sound plasterboard would be a better choice here

[@gregs5247]

great video as always Stuart. I was shocked to see no ditra mat under the tiles for your new build house.

[@itwillbenicewhenitsfinished]

Brilliant. Although recently did my first stud wall and spent ages getting the lengths of wood right - either too long and then took too much off (lots of trips to chop saw). It would be great to see your process for this. And will you paint directly on plasterboard without skimming???

[@1x3dil]

Hi Stuart well thought out project , just like an engineer would 😊 . Agree about the laser level , seems a great product at a good price 👍

[@richardpawlowski4540]

Rather than trying to space the studs to suit the fittings keep to 400 mm centres to make insulating more straight forward. Where fittings are going use patresses which are just 18mm ply or OSB panels held in between the studs against battens fixed to the sides of the studs 18mm in from the front edge. Screws driven into 18 mm ply or OSB are not going to pull out easy but if you are really concerned use dry wall anchors they are not coming out at all. The beauty of patresses is you make them oversize so you do not need to worry about exact positioning until the fitting is being hung and a wider width spreads the load

[@raymondalcorn5048]

Taping and jointing this weekend so great timing. Using screwfix readymix skim. What sanding grit should I use

[@DazDaz105]

Nicely planned and nicely carried out. Not a single Eufy in sight 😝

[@nickdawson9270]

Good to see very careful planning and accurate marking out pay off. Nice piece of work!

[@michaeldesouza4911]

Great video Stuart and I will be purchasing one of those laser levels. Could you recommend a tool bag please?! I am a DIY’er but occasionally do jobs for my elderly neighbours and act as an odd job man at my local pub. Want something that is easy to pack and able to access tools easily. Thanks

[@user-fu9jg8ms2v]

Wow. Love the animation. Great job!

[@mickodonnell890]

Yet another great video. Thank you so much for putting in the time and concise information in your videos. Very professional and very much appreciated. Cheers Stuart! 👍

[@RFC3514]

4:39 - For the same power, a cordless SDS drill will be _heavier_ than a corded one, because of the weight of the battery.

[@hsduk101]

Can you do a video on best mobile workbench, on the road or in your garage

[@simonbray4113]

Another Sunday complete with my weekly fix of Proper DIY😊

[@Treeburnify]

Usually safer using green moisture resistant plasterboard for bathroom/humid areas and drylining is usually finished with drywall sealer.

[@garypotten924]

Great video, laser says unavailable, would be good to get one though to do stud walls like that.

[@wgordonyoung]

Well done Stuart, can I ask if you used any particular drill bit to control the screw depth to prevent it going too deep for the paper face?

[@MartijnvanderHorst-ru3tu]

If you have a problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find him, maybe you can hire... Stuart 😎

[@colsi7228]

Hi Stuart, Always enjoy your videos, lots of great tips. When you were installing the sound insulation in your stud wall weren't you tempted to put two layers into each space to fill/overfill the space or is there a reason not to compress the insulation product? Thanks again for some great stuff 👍

[@75WW75]

25mm will have same performance as 100mm in this application. One of those things. Cavity helps to disperse sound. Too thick/too dense carries sound.

[@terryswinhoe8118]

Stick your masking tape in the microwave for 20 seconds, enables to leave the roll easier

[@relaxreflect5888]

Nice top tip!

[@peter_somm]

My wife is going to be so angry when she finds I have taken the microwave to the house I am renovating 😂

[@TH3-MONK]

If this works, THANK YOU!

[@truth3358]

And remember, there’s a difference between an engineer and a builder😮

[@raycarter4030]

wow. cheers.

[@Toyotaamazon80series]

Not bad, fair play, 👍💪 I go 300mm/12" O/C with C.L.S because it's weaker than sawn 4"x2". I fit a double bottom plate to my non-load bearing stud walls because it gives extra nailing for skirting. I'd double the top plate if an ornate crown moulding was being fitted as well. Two rows of noggins are standard for me as well. Did you consider buying 9' slabs? Or would they have been too awkward to get into the room? Blue acoustic plasterboard would be a better choice for a party wall in a bathroom. Green plasterboard for bathrooms is the way to go. Permabase is my choice for shower's, sinks and baths.

[@diyallsorts]

Thank you for your DIY tips, Stuart. I have benefitted from them immensely. 🤜🤛

[@ianjeffery3762]

i have used a wallpaper stripper to heat and soften the old tile adhesive before - works really well.

[@Christopher_T_Paul]

Funnily enough, I am building a stud wall partition in a friends house to reduce draughts from the front door that opens into their living room. Materials are shockingly expensive, probably in the region of £370 for plasterboard, timber, door liner, door and architraves. Still a big saving against the £980 cheapest quote he received; absolutely shocking when you consider how small the project is and achievable in one good days work.

[@oml81mm]

Very good video and some excellent tips here - well done! But... I know that it is almost mandatory to have "muzak" on KZbin these days, but does it have to be so loud?

[@RayMondElec]

Nice to see you have moved on from the white board. What is the software you are using. Is it easy skectch? Thanks

[@bethtp1]

nice . take care and being precise. I find plastering a lot easier than taping and jointing

[@awantamta]

Fantastic start

[@djbricky6918]

Good informative vid .I'm on utube where I cant find link for the laser level . Could you please reply to me with what model it is .wold be much appreciated thanks .from Des.

[@BitsnBobs-hk5iy]

Iriisy Laser Level Self Leveling, 3x360° Laser Level

[@billysmart24830732]

Great job and love this chanel. You don't seem to have left any expansion joints and would love to know if this causes any issues.

[@JamesplayesYT]

Amazing job again Stuart!

[@martinhunt6004]

A great job well done Stuart!😀

[@jamesbeckett4390]

Stuart, which ready-made jointing compound are you using? I use the wickes stuff but find it a bit thin and harder to work with.

[@chrismantonuk]

1:52 All fun and games until you realise the walls are wonky 😂 I jest… but we set up a laser level when we couldn’t work out why our shelves looked crooked, turned out the ceiling was sloping at a 5 degree angle. Ah, old houses are such fun! Great video though mate, really down to earth and useful - thanks 🙏

[@TheRealRobG]

I’d love to know where to get straight studs from. Only about 1 in 6 of the stuff Wickes have in stock is usable, and I have to choose them by hand.

[@graemeadamson7272]

Excellent guidance as usual fella . Thank you 👊

[@andyc972]

Thanks Stuart, great practical advice as always !

[@UTO0O0B]

Very useful video. Thank you very much. I noticed you said, apart from tiling the bottom half of the plasterboard, you wouldn’t skim the top half and just paint it. I’m about to do the same in a spare bedroom, plasterboard,fill the joints then paint. I would like to use those 3M command strips on the wall for a few pictures. However, I am a bit concerned removing them as and when I need to, may rip the plasterboard paper. Should I be concerned? Is it best I skim the wall if I am to use those sticky 3M command strips? I hope someone can advise. Thanks

[@tkdally]

Another great video from my favourite DIY channel. Do you have any advice about wallpapering please? Specifically, making a wall good for painting after removing wallpaper. I have been putting off re-decorating our spare room because I'm not sure how to deal with the potentially sticky mess left behind.

[@robert.wigley]

Use Zinsser Gardz on it. Just be aware that you need to coat the whole wall, as you will get flashing in areas that are not coated. Follow up with a primer before applying emulsion.

[@ponyososuke6647]

You can paint straight ontop of plasterboard? I thought you have to skim it after.

[@djstuc]

Not any more, many modern houses are built like this now.

[@ponyososuke6647]

​​@@djstucReally?! I didn't know that, so why get someone to plaster or skim drywalls then?

[@djstuc]

@ many places don’t these days, but I guess the detailing around doors and windows etc will still require a skilled hand to make them look right. I think the modern viewpoint is why put more plaster on top of already flat plaster on the board.

[@ponyososuke6647]

​@@djstucthank you so much for replying to my question

[@oskarsmillers]

Good work 👍looks will be nice, strong wall. However 2 things, I think a bit wrongly, 1st-standart white plasterboard in bathroom not a good idea, 2nd- filling joints, filler》joint tape》filler,would be better and right way.

[@sparkyoc6766]

Excellent education, as always, Stuart. Just wanted to ask about waterproof board on UK. In Aus, any 'wet area' needs to have blueboard, which isn't the same as plasterboard. You guys can apply a waterproofing to your plasterboard in bathrooms instead?

[@markdyballuk]

thank you so much Peter, much obliged for the information

[@adeh503]

Who's Peter 🤔

[@markdyballuk]

@@adeh503 sorry stuart, is it perhaps your middle name? 😂

[@mike_mannion]

Great video Stuart.

[@terrytopliss9506]

Great informative video Stuart.👍👍

[@christanner8104]

Assume this works the same for a DOHC 16 Valve where the plug sits vertically in the centre of the four valves. I have a Mazda CX-30 Skyactive X (UK & Europe spec), and I'm just concerned about possible interference between piston and plug. Mazda Europe has a procedure for the Skyactive X plug change, but nobody outside the dealers network can see it. I'm assuming that if I use the genuine Mazda plug, it should be OK? I'm not sure if you have the Skyactive X in North America at present. Great video, many thanks.

[@GeordiLaForgery]

You're amazing, always learning things.

[@Phil-p4c]

Nice job mate 👍

[@TerryBrindal]

Hi Stuart. Another great video thank you. Have followed your link to Amazon for the 3 way laser level, but don't know which one you bought. Are you able to say please?

[@scottball74]

Just brilliant videos love them

[@macoolitreeltv9917]

Amazing job sir 👍👏👏👏

[@terryclarke8300]

If you thin out your mud just a little it will spread easier and come out smoother which means less sanding. You might even get away with using a damp sponge to get it smooth. Drywall mud is always a little dru strait out of the bucket from sitting around for god only knows long.

[@niallbrady187]

Hi Stuart, what's the pencil marker you're using called ??

[@michaelplays2449]

Nice job !!

[@dbrown8698]

Love it mate.

[@StevenMurray-mt7om]

Stuart….Great job with handy tips as per usual 👍

[@keithdownes9774]

Hi Stuart, I regularly watch your Sunday posts with interest. Just a thought instead of toe-nailing have you ever thought of pocket holes? Cheers Keith

[@PinkCamoPanthers]

I’m after magnetic drill attachment and not sure which one to buy. The one You use seams to be just right. Any chance you can direct me, please?

[@300Exige]

Always interesting vids 👍🏻

[@СергейИванов-й8с8ъ]

Does wooden frame have any advantages against steel one?

[@anwolfs9804]

whohey, new intro :D A-team!

[@ianpearse4480]

Great share.

[@DerekIngram-u4e]

Great video, thank you

[@teresabell1014]

Really enjoyed this video 😊

[@johnmadrid9865]

Which laser level did you use/ purchase please

[@BitsnBobs-hk5iy]

Iriisy Laser Level Self Leveling, 3x360°

[@steve_wins83]

Have you reviewed the new drill?

[@jezalb2710]

I would use special plastic sheets to protect the wool/insulation from getting moist. Specially that there will be a bathroom behind that wall.

[@clivewilliams3661]

As an absolute minimum the plasterboard for wet areas should be MR (moisture resistant) grade. My normal spec for an internal stud wall is two layers of plasterboard as it gives a really solid feel to the extent that most people can't tell the difference with a masonry wall with excellent acoustics that don't need the Rockwool. Plasterboard is cheap and the additional labour is minimal also, repairing damaged double boarding is simplicity itself. BTW plasterboard can be had as 3000mm long x 1200mm from the builders merchant. Where tiles are to be placed on the wall I always spec a tile backer board, usually cementitious, that can be one of the layers. This is important as there will be differential movement between tiles and plasterboard or plaster, causing hairline cracks in the grouting and water penetration back to the studs or floor boards. In bathrooms where we often have full height tiling and a range of fittings to accommodate, I usually spec a 20mm ply instead of the plasterboard and then the tile backer board. The ply is simpler to fix than patrisses and gives excellent fixing strength. PS Why take out the floor tiles? They would have been an excellent walk in wardrobe flooring and if that wasn't the desired surface, could accept carpet readily.

[@djstuc]

Your comment history on this channel is hilarious.

[@philgoff7563]

Proper job

[@ironpirate8]

I have heard people say that plasterboard is slightly stronger in "landscape" format when you're boarding a wall. Don't know how true that is.

[@Wgnwtb]

Commenting to follow

[@DMUSA536]

I just bought a 90 degree screw drive that attaches to my drill. A little difficult to use but well worth it

[@geehaf]

Love it.

[@davidgilman9417]

Hiya Stewart are you going to be doing anymore videos on your other channel PROPER ENGINEERING??

[@freakent]

Laser level is out of stock already!

[@nigel4425]

It has been out of stock for a while now - I have it on my watchlist. :(

[@petergraysmith4052]

Helpful as always. Thank you Stuart

[@nigelgarnham1573]

Another great vid from a brilliant DIYer and love the the back catalogue too. I have learnt masses and and the confidence to do bigger jobs have increased also. The music is no issue for me. Top work.