Propshaft Coupling Removal Direct and Drive V-drive

[@SFCISME]

Thank you so much Ron for talking me back down and helping me over the phone to get my shaft out of my Centurion. I would have given up for sure without you bro. Thanks again.

[@rogergodin6443]

Don't you just love the room to work on boats? Great video been there! Roger

[@nicklozano4215]

Ron, you are the G.O.A.T.!

[@JimDemetris]

Great video Ron, can you show how you moved the gas tank back on the mastercraft?

[@joelonzello4189]

Replaced a V-Drive in a friends Bayliner at Lincoln Harbor on the Husdon early 90's. Owner & friend never checked fluids...ever. Always brought it back on fumes. There's alot of debris in the Hudson River and they hit most of it. Always had to ask where the lifebelts where before leaving dock. Last straw for me was someone's sister breaking out her modeling portfolio for a bunch of guys and her brother lol. Of course there were topless etc. The fight that broke out cured me of boats for a lifetime....

[@execct]

I got this tool last week and what I didn't take into account was the space between the couplers (Crusader 454 with straight VD transmission). I was able to get it started with the short bolt but that only moved the coupler about 1/4" before the press bolt bottomed it. At the point, I really needed the long bolt but there was simply not enough room. I wound up using the press bolt instead of a socket and using diff size bolts to press out the shaft. No fault of the tool but check that for your application.

[@stankthetank9375]

Do you need to losen anything on the shaft to separate the couplings from the transmission and the shaft after the 4 bolts are removed. Should these just pull away? I feel mines a bit tight.

[@grantw4907]

Ron, is this necessary when pulling a v-drive engine from a boat? Or can I simply remove the 4 bolts coupling the drive shaft to transmission?

[@rontanis1024]

If your shaft goes through the trans & comes out the front like the one in our video the shaft must be slid back past the trans opening, if your coupling is under the trans then you simply need to remove the 4 bolts & slide it back an inch or two.

[@nathangen]

I have a v-drive on a Mastercraft Maristar 210 engine, I need to remove as well with four bolts and a central nut at the shaft coupler. Removing the 4 nuts didn’t seem to do much in terms of freeing up the shaft. Seems like you would have to remove the central coupling nut to get the shaft to move back? Looks like the coupling puller is sold out for a few months as of this writing. What do you have to do to get the shaft free after removing the 4 bolts and the central nut?

[@rontanis1024]

@@nathangen THe 4 outer bolts do not need to be removed to remove the shaft, only the center main nut needs to be removed, then the shaft must be pressed back about 1/16" then it will fall out. The 4 outer bolts are to attach the shaft coupling to the trans coupling, we also use these holes for our puller tool.

[@nathangen]

Oh interesting, so is there another way to move the prop shaft that 1/16 without the coupler puller? I see the tool is currently sold out. Would say the A.R.E. Shaft/Strut bearing puller removal tool be the ticket? Using this sequence, I found on teamtalk “1. Put a block of wood between your prop and hull (or Ron Tanis method of crowbar at coupler bolt heads) 2. Use a jumbo crescent wrench or socket to loosen big transmission shaft coupling nut but leave attached 3. Loosen 4 transmission nuts and bolts but leave attached. 5. Remove rudder (I think this can be skipped for most boats) 6. Remove prop 7. Attach slide hammer too to shaft and slam the slide hammer forward and that will break apart the transmission and shaft coupling coupling. 8. Now remove big transmission shaft coupling nut 100% 9. Slam slide hammer backwards now and the shaft will come out 10. Remove 4 transmission nuts and bolts and coupling and your done.”

[@devildogae]

What size bolts did you use on that v-drive, looks like I will need to use that method also?

[@rontanis1024]

I have an assortment of 3/8" bolts in packs of 4 from 1 1/2" long to 4" long, it seems every one is different, you will need to place the puller up to the coupling & measure just get 4 that will fit your boat, then keep them with the puller tool.

[@devildogae]

@@rontanis1024 Thanks for the fast reply, will do

[@barthyde5474]

Great video thanks for making it!

[@bigal7255]

videos are great Ron....for us DIY'ers can you make a video of how to remove the drive shaft so we can change the cutless bearing..and reinstal the shaft would there be alignment if the p strut( cutless bearing holder) was not removed ...most of us might not can afford the $400 tool to remove the bearing while the shaft is still place thank you for all your info...it helps us alot

[@johnaikenhead3319]

Ref Big Al's comment about removing the drive shafts on a V-Drive boat, I have a 1995 Searay 370 inboard drive with "Tides Marine Dripless Seals" and yes would be good to see a video on pulling these shafts. I need to renew strut bearings and at same time want to mount spare "standby" dripless seals on the shafts during this winter layup. Am interested to know the arrg't as the shaft goes thru the housing recess under the Hurth Transmission unit, is there a bearing between that housing and the outdrive coupling or is the shaft free to be pulled outboard once the coupling faces are released. Great video's Ron best ones on the tube without doubt, you keep it simple/clear no B.S. and clear to understand for us boaters. Thanks; John.

[@bigblockcutlass123]

4.25 bolt pattern????? I just made on for a Valvet drive

[@johnpenxa]

How is the tank attached to the hull & what's your method to slide the tank forward without damage?

[@rontanis1024]

If the tank has to be removed or slid forward the first thing I do is remove the fuel to reduce the weight. next is the fill hose, the smaller hoses can usually be left attached if only moving an inch or two. Tanks are generally held down by straps that can be removed for this. The last one had room enough to slide the tank forward 2 inches.

[@johnpenxa]

@@rontanis1024 I'm working on a 2006 230 Mastercraft with a 6.0l crusader who's floor is attached to the Hull leaving no access to the straps.

[@rontanis1024]

Well, the better boat builders design means to get access to replacing fuel tanks. I am not familiar with your specific model. I assume you need more clearance

[@ronpruett294]

Anyway to find a video or information on how to remove set screw design?

[@rontanis1024]

No, our video "to-do" list is long, and during the covid-19 shut down the list is getting pushed even further back.

[@rikmid]

thank you for making this video!

[@cedarmcree2871]

Where do I find the set screws on the old school shaft with a key way. I don't see any screws at all inside the actual shaft?

[@christopherperkins6837]

Cedar McRee not all have set screws