polishing anvils

[@robertwingerter9602]

This is GREAT info - I can't thank you enough for this simple solution. Sometimes it's just not cost effective for us home hobbyists to always buy the highest-quality stuff - and English wheels definitely fall into that category. So if we can make the "cheap stuff" work, all the better! Look forward to giving this a shot.

[@mattpolitzer2920]

Thanks Wray. I've shaped some 16G steel motorcycle fenders on my HF English Wheel and always wondered why didn't they come out as smooth as I hoped for. I'll be tuning up my anvils. See you in August, Matt

[@bradsmith9189]

Really quite an ingenious method and articulated in a very clear, and understandable manner. Smart, highly skilled guy... Thanks very much Wray!

[@TheChopperUnderground]

Thank you for sharing this Wray! I am in the process of building a new stronger frame for my new HF English Wheel. My stock top wheel was only .002" out, but my bottom anvils were between .004-.007" run out. I was trying to think of a good way to true them without having to buy a radius attachment for the lathe. I'll give this a try then cut the flats on the lathe! Thanks again!

[@anthonymarande8361]

I took one of your classes last year . One thing I KNOW, you know what you are doing . You have the highest quality standards . Good to see ya ! I learned so much!! Thank You!!

[@ranchero50]

Fighting this battle today with tuning my HF wheels, stopped for lunch and this video popped up. At least I'm not alone. I will say an 80 grit flap wheel in an electric grinder does wonders.

[@sporkguy1]

Thanks for the video! I have one of those e-wheels and plan to polish the anvils as well after seeing this.

[@MegaCountach]

Great stuff Ray! Love your videos, your a strong asset to U-Tube.

[@garybrown9719]

You read my mind I was wondering how it's gonna make those

[@dentfixer5968]

Great video, Thank you.

[@marquiswinecellars]

Can hardly wait for COVID to be over so I can take some of his classes.

[@JBFromOZ]

fantastic info thanks Wray

[@SAXONWARLORD1000AD]

Alot of great info - thanks

[@glennbevan8743]

Have you ever had an upper wheel hard chromed so that way it will stay polished longer

[@proshaper]

Not yet.

[@stricht8]

How is that harbor freight grinder holding up? I’m contemplating getting it. I already bought your adapter kit but wondering if I should splurge for a better Chicago pneumatic grinder.

[@proshaper]

I have four of the Harbor Freight right angle grinders like I use in the video. They sell for $29.00. I have had them for at least five years now with regular use. No problems with them, they are built very well.

[@stricht8]

@@proshaper Thank you! That swayed my decision. I’ll go get one.

[@VoodooDewey69]

Just wondering if you do that to all your anvils are just the ones that are more flat .

[@pajapajic8809]

Great idea

[@paulmybusiness2694]

great tips here wray ty so much i have one question does each anvil have a flat spot in the middle? if so how wide should it be.

[@proshaper]

I think you have to approach the problem like this. You are squeezing metal between two rollers. The top roller is flat, the lower roller has what looks like a radius. The metal as it gets compressed between the rollers grows in surface area and has to go somewhere. It can't go where the top wheel is because that is flat and it won't allow it to go there. It goes where the clearance is on the sides of the bottom wheel. It also falls off of the bottom anvil, creating the compound. So the metal is stretching and the job is to control that stretching to your advantage into desirable shapes. That is the first objective of the task, to shape the metal into shapes that we want. The second objective is to have to the metal go through the stretching process exiting with a mirror finish on it's surface. To do that the contact area and it's edge reliefs/blends have to be tuned to perfection so no marks are present when finished with the panel. If you have marking your wheels are not tuned properly. I pay no attention to radius of the anvil, I'm only concerned with contact area, marking at the edge of the contact area, the amount of curved drop to the edge of the anvil, and strong edge reliefs on the edges of the anvil, so you don't get anvil edge bite. It's complicated but also simple. The anvils and top wheel have to leave a mirror finish or they are not right. If they are not, fix them until they do what they are supposed to do.

[@jimmy5F]

The saying ia: "The proof of the pudding is in the eating."

[@lesthom60]

hi Wray great info, thanks, any chance you could do a video on your ( flexible pattern tape ) as in how you use its the do and don't , of proper pattern making, i got a bunch of your tape last month, I'm going to use it on a NOS MK2 Jaguar front n/s wing, ( fender ) in your parlance, i really enjoy your videos, and i am very glad to see them out on you tube under your name, keep them coming, Les. Glasgow.

[@proshaper]

Hi Les, Thanks for the favorable comments. I have finally got the video making down with the help of one of my employees. I'm hoping to make one a week. I will cover the Flexible shape pattern. Wray proshaper.com

[@sureshpalraj7405]

Hi this is suresh palraj from india. I saw your teaching method really awsome . I try to learn from your video... Thanks a lot ..i hope your making more videos body building.. Once again thaks for teaching us. My mail:[e-mail]

[@garybrown9719]

Never use 600 grit why do you have to have it so smooth

[@proshaper]

Polished body tools do a better job when they are kept to a high polish.