2015 - 2020 Ford F150 5 Channel Amp and Sub Install (to Factory Radio)

Parts linked in the description below!
Watch a full tutorial as a 2019 Ford F150 Truck will have a brand new NVX 5 channel amplifier and Kicker 12" subwoofer installed. We will be adding this amplifier while keeping the factory radio.
Note - this F150 was not equipped with the factory Sony amplified sound system. If you have Sony, we will link those specific parts down below.
This video applies to Ford F-150 models for years 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, and 2020. This video also includes dash trim and stereo removal, radio wiring, and installation.
For the radio Install video on this generation F150, click here:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
For another F150 amp and sub install to an aftermarket radio, click here:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
For the front speaker install video on this F150, click here:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
Click here to see the rear speaker install on this F150:
• 2015 - 2020 Ford F150 ...
If you have any questions, leave a comment below! Be sure to like and subscribe!
***If you want us to build you the harness seen in the video, you can purchase that here:
www.provobeast...
Parts Used (Amazon Associate / eBay Partner Paid Links):
*NVX 5 Channel Amplifier: amzn.to/3mbIP0h
*Skar 4 Gauge OFC Wiring Kit: amzn.to/31f0r2U
*Skar 2 channel RCA cables (extra run): amzn.to/3pO1bGa
*Metra 9 Conductor Speaker Wire: amzn.to/3xK4PSk
*Ford F150 Dual 12" Underseat Sub Box: amzn.to/3NHdVah
*Kicker Comp RT 12" Shallow Mount: amzn.to/3MDvDvd
*Pac LPHFD21 T-Harness: amzn.to/3ZF5QdG
*Pac Lp7-4 Line Out Converter: amzn.to/3BW0kGL
*Audio Control 4 ohm Load Resistors: amzn.to/3vYgpvd
*12x16" ABS plastic panel: amzn.to/3xJATWT
NOTE: If you have the factory Sony sound system and replacing that factory amp, we suggest the following parts:
2015 - 2017 Models with Sony sound system:
*Pac AP4-FD21 Digital Line Out Converter (2015 - 2017): amzn.to/3wgGu7x
*Pac APH-FD01 Sony Amp Bypass Harness (2015-2017): amzn.to/3yr3WSq
2018 - 2020 Models with B&O sound system:
*Pac APH-FD02 Sony Amp Bypass Harness (2018-2020): amzn.to/3OslItB
*Pac AP4-FD31 Digital Line Out Converter (2018 - 2020): amzn.to/3NaIxmP
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate / eBay Partner I earn from qualifying purchases

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Parts used linked in the description of the video!

[@lennyleejr7763]

The harness you have in the description don’t fit a2015 f-150. Do you know where can I get one that fits a 2015 f-150

[@dylankiser07]

^^

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

@@lennyleejr7763 According to Axxess, yes it does fit from 2015 - 2020 non-Sony systems. Alternately you can use the Pac LPHFD21 version linked in the description as well.

[@raymondbennett4817]

I thought the loc had a load circuit built in?

[@davidgleza356]

to connect a KEY200.4 Smart 4-Ch amplifier. Amplifier (auto-EQ/processor) in a 2020 Ford ranger with the original 8-inch stereo, what do I need? What harness works? Also connecting a bass amplifier? thank you

[@davidraimundo7554]

Very informative and nice presentation. I really appreciate the repetitiveness for us noobs that look at wires as spaghetti.

[@JulianGarcia-md7ds]

That’s some quality work right there

[@11deelove]

Excellent video and awesome presentation! Nicely done.

[@Lagger3729]

Oh, I thought you was about to say hey guys this Chris fix it😅

[@Bob.tires13]

Finally a video actually explaining how to do this I'll probably end up still paying sombody buuut I may do it myself, so I will ask how would u use the line out converter for the wires u just rca If I remember right, how would I wire it for a monoblock amp, or would I get a line out converter with just 2 plug ins instead of 4? Thx

[@alexflores9343]

Did you ever figure it out cause im about to do the same thing and im curious

[@thatguykai479]

You can buy the typic speaker adapter and cut into those instead OEM wires just in case you like to choose to hard way

[@maplesgamer378]

Ordering some load generators now, currently having sound problems after installing a lc7i, I didn’t know the speaker wires were load sensoring. Will update if this works

[@BryanKean]

Great video. My brain hurts.

[@JCMORCELLE]

Hey, how you doing? Great video. I have a question: I have a 2020 ford f150 that I want to install one 4 channels amp for my door speakers and one D amp for my subwoofer. I need to add an additional PAC outer converter for the subwoofer amp? Since the listed in your video works for 4 channels amp. Thank you in advance

[@fffstang]

Looks like that adapter harness you used is no longer available. Is their another source that fits my 19 xlt with non amplified 8in touch screen?crutchfiels says the pac harness will not work with my xlt 8in screen. (Non b/o non Sony)?? Is that correct ? Crutchfield has been good overall in the past but not always correct with this type of thing. Anyone have any info ?

[@kevins9576]

I'm wondering the same thing...... ever get an answer anywhere?

[@DukeCommitt]

Great video! I have a question: I’m adding 2 12s to the factory system on a 2 channel amp instead of a 5 channel one. Would I need to do anything different? Can I leave the factory amp and just add the extra one?

[@C-Young.]

Idk

[@lennyleejr7763]

The harness you have listed from crutchfield doesn’t fit a 2015 f-150

[@torresgaragesa1312]

Nice have you ever taught of selling that and making it as a kit for people like us that get intimidated when seeing a lot of wires?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Sure, send us a message on facebook and we can build one for you!

[@nelson32]

I'm upgrading my F150, and I'm keeping the stock HU. My AudioControl DSP accepts high level input. Does the F150 have high level for the sub coming from the HU

[@Barn94]

i tried this firewall access and ended up pulling the whole grommet through and tearing it. After pulling it back out it wouldn't sit flush again. Hopefully it doesnt leak, otherwise it will get caked in silicon

[@Ladysman_217]

I have a 2017. Base(not amp) 6 speaker with 8" screen. I have a 2ch and a mono sub Amp. 2 way components for up front, no rears. I see you didn't see a need to use something like the lc2i pro. Is the accubass not needed in these trucks? The fact that you used a basic loc says to me that an audio control would be overkill? I was also unaware that the f150 uses a load sensing radio.

[@LesWhitleyjr]

Do you know what harness I need for regular radio not the touch screen

[@Nathang2023]

Did u end up finding out

[@richardg2362]

Does the 2015 F150 Ecoboost (with Sony) have ANC or anything else that would affect the sound?

[@dylankiser07]

Did you find any info on how much different it is with the Sony sound system that comes factory? No KZbin videos on it

[@calebmostek2823]

Hello, would this set up also mean that I can upgrade the other speakers such as the doors? Thanks!

[@peepeepoopoo69420]

In my 2019 lariat I have the B&O sound system what harness do I need?

[@chapparo80]

Do u have the seat belt chime and door chime amplified after adding a aftermarket amp to stock radio because mine is

[@joelane4670]

I have a 2017 xlt. Want to add amp and sub,but man that T harness is what Scares me. You really didn’t show what wires you took off. Thanks anyway it’s a great video

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

If just simply installing an amp and sub, no need for all we did, just simply tap into a speaker output using a line out converter and that’s all that is needed.

[@joelane4670]

@@ProvoBeastAudio hey if I just wanna to add a powered sub. Should I tie in to the front speakers from back of my factory head unit. Or is there other options? And do you recommend a decent powered sub. Just for putting a little bass in my 2017 f150..thanks! Added focal speakers front/back coax all around. Peace.

[@kevinsmith2fishes739]

Where are you located? I'd be interested in having a subwoofer setup like this installed. I want to keep the factory radio and speakers just want to add subs for the deeper bass sound. So just a class D mono block amp for 1 or 2 subwoofers under the back seat.

[@alejandrogorostiza1197]

I have a Mazda, 2015 cX5 with the bose system. I don't know what to do about installing an aftermarket. 5 channel amp while keeping my factory radio. Any advice? Really trying to stay budget, friendly, or at the very least. Put money in the right place. I have the scar 5 channel amp. And a 10 inch box.

[@Fenncey]

I will be using an AudioControl LCI 2 pro on my '22 F-150 non-amplified. It will be set to 20ohms. Will I still need a load resistor?

[@GeraldoRosario-k7y]

I did everything exactly like the video but the sound out the door speakers isn’t as crisp as it should be. I replaced door speakers and the amplifier is also new. Any advice ?

[@richardbeto1615]

Do we really have to alter the t harness? I see many different options online for different types of set ups but I was hoping to not have to cut anything. If I do have to make cuts than I'll just make my own. Thank you for all of the details given in your videos.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

If just adding an amp and sub, no, a T harness isn't necessary. However, if doing a 4 or 5 channel amp while retaining the factory radio, yes, we strongly recommend a T-harness for a Plug and play setup.

[@jessicalinkous131]

Sweet. Do you have a parts list for a basic Amp and sub on radio hook up

[@zachtolsma3430]

@@jessicalinkous131 idk if you’ll see this but what was your solution for this? I’m doing just an amp and sub but I need the rca port still

[@juanberrelleza5314]

Is there a way you could possibly make a video using the PAC LPHFD21 wiring harness?? Since the T harness you used is discontinued ?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Absolutely, the pac version is the way to go now!

[@bryanbuilds4255]

Anything out there for 2012 non Sony and no screen basic CD player radio? I want my 4 kicker speakers powered on 4 channels and then the 5th channel to power the sub… Is that possible?

[@thomasopland7585]

Outstanding work. Lol how much to do my truck haha?

[@krehbein]

Cool video, thanks for sharing. Took me a while to get the whole wiring setup, now that I understand will use this approach for my ‘23 f150. Like how you don’t have to cut factory wiring. Do you find it’s better to ground back to battery? Seems like if you don’t you may get sound interference.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

In most instances, it’s not needed. Some will argue with the aluminum body to pull a ofc run to the battery for the ground. But again, to each their own.

[@krehbein]

@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks, I’ll try first without ground to battery

[@ciscosjoquist5649]

Alright I have the same setup BUT I just ran into an issue. Granted it was probably my fault , the issue didn’t begin until I accidentally shorted the system by disconnecting the ground and reconnecting it. The REM cable is now under powered only reading 3v. I’ve swapped the amp and PAC unit , but nothing has changed, is reading 3v directly from the PAC. The yellow input is fine reading 12v. I think the load resistors might be the issue, loose connection maybe? Or maybe there no good?

[@KidKobe210]

How do you feel about the speed wire being 18awg, but the factory wires are 16awg? I ask because my amp/speakers I’m about to install recommended 16awg but i can’t find speed wire in that size.

[@hyoctane23]

I like the no cutting solution..very clean. Sooo what did you do with the APIM harness that you didn't use?

[@codyn7200]

I’m experiencing I buzzing noise and it get more high pitch when I accelerate any idea on what could cause that

[@koby15]

In the video on the T harness part he talks about a brown ground wire. Ground that and it should stop the loop feedback… or be lazy and tell your friends it’s turbo spool…

[@codyn7200]

@@koby15 thanks a lot brother im also having some of the speakers cutting in and out would that just just be a loose connection on a wire or smt or could that ground have something to do with it

[@maplesgamer378]

@@codyn7200did you figure this out

[@maplesgamer378]

@@koby15did you figure this out

[@Knocka13]

Will this exact method work with back up camera? And what jumper can I use this one in the video is discontinued

[@samconte4539]

I just installed the exact same set up as you except a 5 channel skar amp and a 12 inch pioneer sub. I am getting some light buzzing and frequency when me sound is off. I grounded the brown wire and was wondering if there was any other ways to stop the buzzing.

[@shaunlavoie6183]

Just about to install a setup like this. I have new JL C1 3 way 6x9's in the door. Is the tweeter and door speaker on the same output on the stock non B&O stereo? Just wondering if it will be just the 4ohm load on my amp from the 6x9's

[@rndlwtzl]

When I click the amazon link it is a 2-channel amp, is there another amp you would recommend that is a similar size and pulls from the front and rear channels for the sub?

[@edisonvelasquez6608]

I’m planning on doing a similar install to my truck and this is an amazing instructional video but I have a question on the speed wire connection to the t harness do you have a clean picture or video to see how everything is connected?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

It's not a personal vehicle, so if you want further clarification, feel free to send us a message on facebook for help.

[@alexflores9343]

If I run a monoblock amp do I still need this LOC or can I use one with only 2 rca outputs

[@Bull_3.5]

What if you want to keep adding music n need to add more amps? Would u need anything else or have to replace anything?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Keep adding music? I'm not sure what you are referring to

[@MattParker-yp5pt]

Does the dash and a-pillar speakers still work with this setup?

[@stephenv177]

What’s it means when your getting very minimum sound through the door speakers but normal sound through the subs and 5th speaker on the dashboard ?

[@blakebowmer4196]

hey man I got the load resistor running into loc and I got no sound…when i mess with the rcas the speakers will make a noise but no music

[@codafranco1]

I jave a question. So did you upgrade the factory speakers ?replaced them forthat amp or are you using the amp with the original factory speakers.

[@codafranco1]

How much overall would this set up cost overall..and is it going to sound better than the factory oem kicker sub.also do u do this on a bussiness you own..where you located

[@zakarytomlinson2537]

So if you’re just doing a subwoofer what all do I need?

[@brantleyb3989]

Great video and awesome work! I have a 2018 f150 and it has a factory amp and I’m planning on adding another amp, could I just run my rca cable from my old amp to my new one?

[@iaminderjeetsidhu]

I am planning same. How this goes?

[@pryde84]

Does the center dash speaker still work after this modification?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Yes off of just the factory radio power. .

[@jonp761]

Were there any issues with grounding the amp to the seat bolt? Any noise or popping sounds?

[@luca2627]

Same question. I'm having a hell of s time figuring out ground. I've seen this video and your other video. Tried the ground cable to the battery also and didn't work. I'm not sure what else to try. 😢😢😢

[@jonp761]

@@luca2627 I wound up running a ground right to the negative terminal of my battery. Works like a champ. No issues at all.

[@choochoochar]

Did you run into any issues with factory bass roll off? Thanks in advance

[@justin22763]

I see you have a plastic floor mat under the sub. Is there enough clearance between the sub and floor mat? Looking at mine when it's sitting on the floor mat it looks really close to touching when it's just sitting there.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

We didn't seem to have an issue. If you worry about that, add a grill to the sub which will protect it from the floor. Hope that helps!

[@joelane4670]

Man that looks very complicated. How much a install cost?

[@trentbuescher4725]

I can’t find that amp anywhere it’s sold out, and the axxess t harness is sold out too, what’s the difference in t harnesses and what is a similar amp I can install?

[@112785jam]

I have a 2017 XLT and added the resistors after watching the video, but still no difference in sound, it sounds horrible, my tweeters are way too loud on my coaxials. What did I do wrong?

[@choochoochar]

I had the same issue. Installed a pioneer 5 channel amp, component / coaxial alpine speakers in front and back doors, and 13 inch sub. Used all the same parts in this video except for the amp. Load resistors, line out converter, exact same wiring kit, the whole 9 yards. Everything sounded horrible, and almost deafening. It was hard to listen to even at low volumes. After doing some research, I found adding a DSP like the kicker KEY 200.4 would be the best way to go. The factory head unit gives bad signal outputs which ARE tuned for the original speakers. The DSP would work to correct the lossy signal the head unit provides. Didn't wanna drop any more money so I ended up just reverting everything back to stock and I am relieved to have at least decent audio back. Sorry if there's any misinformation here, as I am a car audio amateur. Let me know if you ever solved the issue we are facing

[@too_t1red_to_work]

I have a question, I have bought all the parts you have linked and are wandering if you could provide me with the settings you put on the amplifier.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Generally speaking, set your HPF/LPF to 80hz to start, and set your gain about the 12 o'clock position. Don't use bass boost as it adds unnecessary distortion into the signal.

[@taytonkirschenmann2649]

What if I don’t wanna mess with the speakers just a sub?

[@ryanrichards567]

Great video, I just purchased everything to copy this installation. On the t harness, if I wanted to add a dsp should I? Do I really need one? If so, any recommendations?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

DSP can really help correct the signal from the factory radio, and would be a great option, although more work getting it setup. I'd recommend going without one, and if you can't seem to get a decent sound, add one later. the Dayton DSP is a decent value: amzn.to/3Fn1SgJ

[@ryanrichards567]

Thanks for the reply. I actually watched another one of your videos and decided to get the lc7i. Going to run 9 wire to that from the linked t-harness then run 9 wire back to the to the harness from the amp. Also doing door speakers while I'm at it. I appreciate your videos to give me the confidence to do this.

[@tandpnetwork7102]

Are there benefits to buying the LC2i (LOC) as opposed to the LP7-4?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

LC2i- has a main channel out and a sub channel out. The sub channel has an added benefit of accubass where you can correct any bass rolloff. It's a more expensive unit, but highly recommended. The LC7i is a 6 channel LOC which also is a great option.

[@jonspruill9950]

The Audio Control LC units will also load the factory headunit speaker outputs so you wont have to have the LGD's

[@marshall8182]

I have a sub and amp kit. All the wiring and everything comes with the kit. What else do I need? Connector wise to run from the audio to my amps? I have the Sony system btw. I think I have a platinum.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

We linked that info in the description to help get you started.

[@AyooKDot]

Got a 15 Platinum with the Sony system. Already have a skar amp, 4 8”s, box, lc2i converter, and wiring. Is the harness for the factory radio absolutely necessary to run the system? Im new to subs and just a little confused on how all that works.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

I have notes regarding the Sony factory system in the description of this video. To bypass the factory amp, you will need the Pac amp bypass harness linked in the description to properly bypass the Sony amp while retaining the factory radio.

[@gccris5304]

So if it had the Sony system would I just have to tap in to the sub amp in the back

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

If just adding an amp and sub only while keeping the Sony amplifier in play, yes, just snag signal from the factory sub.

[@alxmendoza1058]

What would you change on the t-harness if I was just thinking of using a mono block amp?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Pac t harness only. Linked in description. We have the 2021+ version on the channel where we do just that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKTCh3hjqJiXopIfeature=shared

[@coderedfit]

Will all this work for a 2023 super duty XL? Audio system with AM/FM radio touch screen, color screen, SYNC® 4, 8.00 in. multi-function display screen touch screen.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Send us a message on our facebook or instagram page and we can help identify the exact parts for your trim needed for your install.

[@coderedfit]

Are the load resistors still necessary if using this LOC, PAC LPA-E.4 LocPro Advanced?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

That Pac module does provide a load down to 20 ohms, so in theory, yes! But if the radio fails to operate correctly, then I'd later add load generators.

[@AspRunescape]

I had a shop install a 5 channel amp to the stock radio. He used this method or something similar... but when my auto stop/start turns the truck on after idling it cuts power to the amp restarting it. Same thing happens if I turn the volume down too low or off. I have to turn the volume up to feed enough power to the amp. How do I remedy this, what could he have done wrong?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Check to see where he tapped into for the remote turn on wire. Depends on the source, he may have gone straight to the fuse box on a circuit that turns off whenever the truck shuts off. If using a line out converter that only senses audio, that also may be the reason why the amp shuts down if turned all the way down (depends on the loc). Best scenario you use a line out converter that produces a trigger output based on a DC offset (senses a DC voltage over the speaker wire) to keep on the amp regardless of audio or not. Hard to diagnose without more info.

[@l.rod2827]

The 2023 F150 has too much ducting and everything else under the dash to access the rubber grommet from the passenger side. Almost impossible without disassembling too many components.

[@mjdeboer10]

Do you by chance know where I can get a t harness like the one in the video, but for volkswagen? 2023 jetta

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Pac makes a ton of Harnesses like that. I'd check their site.

[@dailymileage7557]

What do you do when a client wants dual subs under the rear seat but the truck has the factory power inverter under the passenger rear seat?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Build an amp rack behind the rear seats.

[@timmybelmont1]

Will all my buttons on my steering wheel work still?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Yes, the factory radio in no way will lose any functionality.

[@timmybelmont1]

Thank you so much!

[@jesusjuarez8843]

Any bass roll off with the b/o system.?

[@bryancruise]

@ProvoBeastAudio - First off, AWESOME VIDEO! I am following your video to the letter for my 2020 F150, and I noticed something odd. At the 13:12 mark when you're showing the output converter/load simulator apparatus you built, the white and gray outputs are either transposed, or the one I got is different. Mine was Gray first, then white. I think you might have flipped left and right in your video. Maybe you swapped the RCA to compensate? Also, it looks like you have the positive and negative backwards, at least compared to the one I got. The output side of mine has the positive first (left to right along the top in your vid), but in your video it *appears* that you have negative first. It is easiest to see on the purple wire, where the negative stripe is facing up. It's hard to tell, and you don't really show it close up enough for me to tell definitively. You are obviously a pro, so maybe I am seeing it wrong, or the one I got is different. Either way, thank you for the great video. Oh one other thing, pulling the power wire through that rubber gasket was TOUGH. You made it look super easy, so kudos on that!

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

It's just a load resistor, so as long as the same color passes in and out, they can be in any position. Happy to help!

[@bryancruise]

@@ProvoBeastAudio maybe I am misunderstanding something. I thought the 'out' of the load resistors formed the input of the line out converters, and thus the channels (Front L/R, Rear L/R) very much mattered. Isn't that how the amp is getting the channel signal from the factory head unit?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

@@bryancruise Send us a message on facebook or instagram and we can help answer your questions.

[@justin22763]

Do you have another recommendation for a t harness? The one you have linked this video is out of stock and their rep told me they aren't sure when I will be back in stock.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

We also linked the Pac LPHFD21 there too, which is basically the same adapter which should work for you.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

ebay.us/pG1cPH

[@locustltz400]

Have a 17 F-150, I swapped out the 4inch screen and upgraded to the sync 3. What do I need to do to avoid any hiccups?

[@mikemike4415]

Just did the exact thing with mine. I wish they'd answer this one.

[@locustltz400]

@@mikemike4415 I installed it already it went well. Lci2 pro, and a skar 8 inch. Didn’t do a 5 channel.

[@philipshaffer401]

Have you used that T harness on 21+ f150 with big screen and standard audio system. The website says 2011-2020.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

It’s on my website, yes if you want one built. If you build it yourself, the harness is a pac lphfd31. Provobeast.com

[@philipshaffer401]

@@ProvoBeastAudio thanks I found it on the pac website . I commented on the other video installing a front door speakers . In trying to install new tweeters snd 6×9 and all the aftermarket tweeters are either 4ohm or 6 ohm the factory is 8ohm is it ok to run those off the factory head unit with no amp

[@blakecampos5563]

How much would you charge to make one of the adapters and load thing for me ? That way it’s a plug and play?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Sure send me a message on Facebook and we can chat.

[@timmybelmont1]

This feels like a stupid question but the sub is rated for a max power of 1000 watts will the 1100 watt amp harm the sub?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Max power are very unrealistic numbers. Always look at the RMS rating. Find out what coil configuration your sub is, how it will be wired, check the rms rating of your sub, and find a amp that does the power at that ohm load.

[@nelson32]

The T harness is hard to get now.. are there others that can be used in its place

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

We have a few linked in the description

[@anautodetailingmanzo1442]

If I am just Going to add a a subwoofer and and a amp with a epicenter and change out the door speakers do I really need to do all this

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Nope if you plan on just running the door speakers off the radio. You just need a line out concerted and tap into your speaker wires for signal. No need to add load resistors or T harness if just adding a simple amp and sub.

[@joelane4670]

@@ProvoBeastAudio what’s the line out concerted do?

[@nelson32]

How does this amp compared to the pioneer you installed 10 months prior on a Ford F-150?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

We still love that Pioneer, and recommend it. This is at a cheaper price point, and still is a great option.

[@chris.5434]

What do you charge for something like this? I’m considering doing it myself but curious what shops charge. I know area ect will make price different.

[@disconerdlion3853]

from what i’ve heard around the atlanta area is if you have the sub and amp alreayd it’s about 300 ish

[@chris.5434]

@@disconerdlion3853 I’m in Georgia. That’s fair

[@brobstchris2334]

How do you only have 2 sets of rca’s and everything working this may be a dumb question

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Our amplifier can combine the front and rear sets of RCAs to generate the sub channel input internally.

[@richacevedo660]

do you really need the load resistors if you dont have an amplified system?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

If you are connecting all your speaker leads from the factory radio directly to your line out converter and amplifier (instead of speakers), yes. If you are simply just adding an amp and sub keeping the factory speakers connected, no load resistors needed.

[@GlennPearsonDIY]

Nice work! I have a 2017 Expedition limited, I believe it has the factory sub/Sony system. Could I get a quote from you to do this for my vehicle? I am local to you. I am happy to reach out via a website or whatever.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Send us a message on Facebook!

[@iwalkathinline]

I know several others have commented on this as well... but Crutchfield says that T-harness won't fit a 2015 F-150. They recommend the iDatalink dFO2 as an alternative... Has anyone tried this?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Axxess says it will fit a 2015. Pac's alternative also will fit as well (linked in the description).

[@iwalkathinline]

@@ProvoBeastAudio ok thanks, I'll give the PAC product a try

[@TheLawlessGang]

how much wattage is safe to run on stock electrical and a strong agm upfront? i have a 16 bro

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

I'd say up to about 1500 watts RMS. Any more would be up to better battery / wiring / electrical upgrades under the hood.

[@-redacted_by_youtube]

Got a question about one of your older videos. Bought to buy a 2016 gti. Got a 2k watt amp and a sundown 10. I'm worried the alternators not gonna be enough. Been looking for a replacement for it cannot seem to find one think I'll be good without it? Was just gonna run a cap and hope for the best.

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Do a big 3 upgrade, and ensure that your primary battery is healthy or high performance (upgrade to an AGM will help greatly). I'd add a secondary AGM battery as most cheap caps are garbage.

[@drillsergeant623]

Why not tie into the wires in the C pillar for an amplifier?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

you could, but for both inputs and outputs with a 5 channel amp, and use of the T harness, behind the radio is the best solution. If just adding and amp and sub, and simple line out converter, You can go to the C pillar.

[@drillsergeant623]

@@ProvoBeastAudio 👍🏼 Good point.

[@irishboy0714]

Does it have to be a 5-channel amp?

[@briandjurich9126]

4 door speakers and 1ch for the sub

[@steve581581]

Do the center dash and 2 pillar speakers still work?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Yes, they just ran off of radio power, and the pillar speakers are wired in the same channel as the door speakers (see that video for more information) on the non-factory amplified systems.

[@00typeralejandro]

I have a 2022 honda accord I installed a 5 channel amplifier to the factory radio I replaced the door speakers and rear deck speakers and added a single 12" sub everything sounds good Bluetooth plays good but the only issue I have is that when I make Bluetooth calls I can't hear the person I call thru the door speakers and rear deck speakers but I can only hear the calls thru the tweeters because those I actually left them alone still connected to the factory head until. does anybody know how to retain the Bluetooth calls to be able to hear the calls on the door speakers and rear deck speakers. I only experienced this issue after connecting the doors speakers and rear deck speakers to the 5 channel amp but if I connect the door speakers back to the factory wires of the door I'm able to hear the calls again. any solution to this problem anybody

[@Mr.Mach1n3]

No sound test ?

[@Bull_3.5]

Do you still build the harness?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Yes, all on provobeast.com

[@pedigreed6397]

so will the factory radio still power the door speakers?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Nope, not at all. The amplifier now powers all the door speakers and a sub.

[@pedigreed6397]

@@ProvoBeastAudio ah okay gotcha

[@jpcamrepairs5462]

why doesnt yours have a cd player

[@mariohernandez4997]

Where do I get the loader converter?

[@fordsobey1673]

How can I do this in a 2013 with factory Sony system

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Send us a message on facebook and we can help you with the parts needed.

[@Shady2695]

how is the ground?

[@drewzx3]

Do you sell that harness pre-built?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Yep, at provobeast.com

[@drewzx3]

@@ProvoBeastAudio would you recommend anything else or would that be all I need on a 21 non b&o?