2008 - 2012 Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute Sub and Amp Install

Parts used linked in the description below!
Watch a full tutorial as a 2010 Ford Escape (non factory amplified) will have an aftermarket Kicker amplifier and 12" Kicker subwoofer installed. Note that this Escape is similar to other platforms such as the Mazda Tribute.
This video applies to Ford / Mazda models for years 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, and 2012. This video includes step-by-step on the installation process of the amplifier and subwoofer.
If you have any questions, leave a comment below! Be sure to like and subscribe!
Parts Used (Amazon Associate Paid Links):
*Kicker 43CXA300.1 Amplifier (Discontinued)
--Recommended Kicker amplifier: amzn.to/3hBiapC
*Kicker Comp 12" 300w Subwoofer: amzn.to/3y6Eiz7
*8 Gauge Amplifier Wiring Kit: amzn.to/3iWX7jK
*Pac SNI-35 Line Out Converter: amzn.to/2UcAXjb
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Parts used linked in the description of the video!

[@srjsrj2257]

How do I get the blue pieces that you used to remove the aufio from the speakers?

[@01hondascott]

mannn you just made my day with this video, i have a 2010 ford escape and can't get any help putting my system in and i never installed a car stereo before and i am scared of buring down my escape lol, thank you so much for this 1000 times .

[@Joshtheweatherman]

You saved me almost $200. I love the sound quality of the factory radio, and I didn’t want to part ways with Sync. So I did this method and it worked perfectly! I had to turn the bass all the way down on the stereo, because at higher volume the factory speakers would distort when hard bass kicked in. So now it’s balanced perfectly with the subwoofer.

[@stevelavely]

Thank you for this video. You made it a breeze to install. I would say the hardest part was connecting the T connectors to the speaker wires.

[@Joshtheweatherman]

You ain't kidding. The Line Output Converter box kept fighting with me. The wires kept coming out of the T connector before I had a chance to pinch it lmao

[@masterbaits8351]

I’ve already installed everything except the preamp , it’s supposed to arrive today , so I figured I’d be ready when it gets here , I didn’t think to use the side pocket I keep my emergency fishing lures in for my amp , but certain it’s to small for my amp , and I didn’t want it exposed at all , so I used the cargo storage tub under the carpet to mount my amp, however it is sealed and had concerns of over heating, I cut out a small circle on the driver’s side edge and mounted a 80mm 12v fan out of a computer , it sits perfectly and looks super clean in the corner, there is also a decent air channel that runs the edge of the tub to draw air from , it blows directly onto the amp , there is a slight drop off where the amp is mounted , which I appreciate, I utilized the drop off to put a small piece of foam under both low side screws for a nice air gap under the amp while leveling it in the process, I will drill a couple 3 inch holes in the lid of the cargo box and put a piece of screen over the holes and lay my carpet back down , it should exhaust threw the carpet , amp should stay moderately cool , Just a idea for anyone who may not want amp exposed , also if you like to show your stuff off , the lid could easily be exchange for a piece of plexiglass , and u can either cut out the carpet to expose the plexiglass or remove the carpet so you can cover it when needed ,

[@clancymcguire5309]

Why did you tap the front channels for a subwoofer? Isn't rear what you want?

[@andrewb6603]

Yeah you don't wanna use that fuse since it has power all the time unless you like jumping the battery. The remote wire goes to a fuse that is only live when the key is in run or accessory.

[@madmotorsmedia5650]

See that’s what I was thinking but everyone says it should be live all the time. Now I don’t know what to do. Have you decided which way it correct, thanks

[@andrewb6603]

​@@madmotorsmedia5650 I ended up using a piggyback fuse holder(with a 5A fuse for the remote wire) on Fuse #45 in the inside fuse box. It is has power in ACC and RUN.

[@01hondascott]

i know i commented 10 months ago but i have been slack getting my components together, lol i am finally installing now, just double checking with you that is the climate control fuse you are tapping into with the add a circuit

[@user-dn6qy1ou1f]

Skip that going to fuse box. Go directly to the steering column wires

[@robpruden4172]

I would’ve like to see the connections in detail

[@marcusfreedmad1435]

same bro i’m so lost he did everything i needed to see he did off camera

[@dahlon6618]

@@marcusfreedmad1435 Ong I’m here now thinking ts finna help me he skip every step

[@keithzaczek1]

It amazes me when people want a system installed but there battery is trash all that corrosion on both terminals was the first thing I noticed

[@01hondascott]

i just put a brand new battery and alt in last summer, should i be ok?

[@mannyboy95]

I know you said white with a brown strip is front left negative, but doesn't the factory diagram say it's white with a black stripe. There is a brown with a yellow that was throwing me off that is rear left negative, so I had to find the factory schematics. Edit: also the black gray cable is the ground. Is it possible to ground to just there with a t tap?

[@ehoveproductions]

With the fuse. The add a fuse. Which fuse goes on top? The added one or og?

[@leonelramirez9007]

Very nice, simple and great explanation. Overall awesome job 👍.

[@ksiebert8206]

This is a great video with detailed instructions!

[@firulais6700]

I like it 👌 thank for a great clean install 😎

[@KENNETHRUSSELL-nt1xs]

I have a 2007 ford escape 3.0 I installed radio head unit and amp and power and ground it power up but no sound coming from amp I have a perfectly ground but no sound can u help me out to get to sound to amplify

[@cameronhesson4099]

What T taps were those

[@btctreesbournetoclimb1905]

That grommet!!🔥👍

[@vethaz30]

Have you ever had an issue with the relay in that same fusebox? Mine keeps clicking on and off since the instal? Any ideas if you could please and thank you

[@pauloramos1681]

Nice one man!!! I completely agree with Leonel Ramirez. This helped a lot. One question thought, is the "Pac SNI-35 Line Out Converter" mandatory? What does it do? I have already set my amplifier and sub-woofer like you explained except in my case it is a 1000W system, but where I live you won't find a line out converter. Thank you and anyone out there for an explanation in advance.

[@dragonmaster391]

a line out converter converts the high level outputs that would be going to a speaker into a low level signal that the amp can take in. If you have an aftermarket headunit then you'll have outputs for the amp on the unit. The line out converter is only needed if you dont have the proper low level inputs and have to hook into speaker wire to add the amp. Any proper setup does not use a line out converter.

[@paulo23xable]

@@dragonmaster391 thank you for the explanation.

[@xisneakii]

How did you hide the Line output converter?

[@rawrlikeadino121]

What size gauge should i get for the t taps all i can find are 12 to 14 gauge is this correct

[@NoferTrunions]

Did you consider a sub w/amp from a junk yard Premium Sound?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Factory premium sound will always be lesser than aftermarket premium sound IMO.

[@NoferTrunions]

@@ProvoBeastAudio Definitely, however I have access to an 2009 Mariner factory premium sound for cheap. And I also enjoy upgrading cars with original equipment options. (and I'm not that critical on the sound system - of course if it was a factory JBL, BOSE, Infinity, etc. that would be a no-brainer, but the Escape premium sound is not that great so I'm wondering if it's not worth the effort. My biggest thing I'd like to do is get all the factory wiring/harness/loom for the sound system too - not sure if the sub wires are already in my 2010 XLT)

[@jimmykent54]

Hi, nicely done. Any chance you have video of how you mounted the amp? Or perhaps a written description as a reply?

[@s3xyvx98]

Is install the same for older models

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Technique will be similar, sure.

[@duvaliear]

Whats the link to order the kit

[@serratededges3003]

Cool thanks..you're video was a lot of help for sure...

[@stoplookinent4791]

I got a question for you

[@xanderharmening8166]

Oof…I may have to install my own grommet…bc that’s where my clutch master goes…

[@allanbrettbrassard9465]

Hey guys, we followed the video directions and did not have any success... Hoping you can help. We hooked up the sub & amp box to a different vehicle and it worked just fine. We are having two problems 1) The amp has power all the time, not just when the key is turned to the aux or engine start position. 2) The sub is not receiving a signal from the head unit (the music is cranked and the bass level is set to max) so when everything is connected the subwoofer does not engage. I’m 99% sure the problem is with the wire taps we installed (head unit to rca adapter) but wondering if you have any suggestions?? Thank you in advance!!!!!

[@jupit3r658]

I’m not sure if you found your answer yet, but for the reason your amp is always on: after looking at what fuse they tapped into I found they tapped into the climate control which is, for some reason, always powered. As far as the head unit tap, I don’t know if you followed those exact colors he gave you but some cars have different colors for the speakers. I would check that.

[@SGT.SONS69]

Does anyone know the wiring diagram

[@brianobrian6637]

Very cool. CLEAN. I'm really picky about cosmetics as I feel most are. (or should be, but to each their own) I'm kind of curious on that particular set up's improvement ? I like the fact that doesen't eat up a ton of cargo room (translating "usually" into eating less of one's finances) I was thinking of Alpine type "S" in the 4 factory door speaker locations. Maintaining the factory head unit (I know I could deal w/getting around Sync, the steering wheel etc. But it's a daily driver, I don't want a "Here I am" or " You"ll hear me 2 mins. Before I get there" system) A decent to vast improvement of the factory 4 speaker system is deffinately in order ! I'm open to suggestions & honestly somewhat torn between Polk D.b. or the Alpines ? Another thought other than what you did possibly was trying 1 of the many junk yards in my area/or Ebay; Acquiring the optional factory sub & mainly mounting pannell & possibly do some mild sound proofing/deadening & similar to this set up, install a single 8 inch sub w/appropriate power.(This is assuming I can "switch" the optional panel containing the fact. Sub. & replace with a budget friendly alternative into my Mariner which does NOT have it. I'll look into that shortly but don't expect that to be much more difficult than tracking down the proper pieces and mouldings to do so) I know especially in audio; You get what you pay for ! There's always sales, open boxes, etc. That when not needed asap, I've done pretty well with in the past. I think anything more than a single 8-10 will probably require more space than I'm willing to part with. Dual 12's are out, just trying to keep myself from from stripping the car down & refinancing my home, in an attempt to make rain drop's bounce, but I'd also like to maintain my sanity & add some much needed "umph" as my factory components are rather old & tired, as well as, is basic as was possible over a decade ago! Does a single 8 or 10 sub. Add all that much ? I'm not in the financial bracket for the $600 stealth box. & with the factory 6×8's, worth changing front & rear to 6.5's ? Go 5.25 ? A combo ? I'm open to any experienced opinions and or knowledge pertaining to upgrading the overall sound quality of the Escape/Mariner/Tribute that yourself or anyone else wishes to share ! Great video & T.y. beforehand for any & all thoughts!

[@laque900]

Ground is not there for 2012 Ford Escape,

[@ekorean120]

Will your amp turn on if the remote wire isnt hooked up? Shouldnt i still be able to still see if power is supplied without remote wire hooked up to an interfuse wire?

[@gabeulrickson2496]

No no you won't the amps generally do not show when they are getting power but aren't actually powered on

[@benjaminroeling9238]

Can you send me the color code for the factory wiring harness?

[@ProvoBeastAudio]

Google search.

[@chrissanders9713]

Im not gettin power to amp amp is good wat could be the issue

[@chrissanders9713]

I got power do i need to connect two speakers a left and right for converter or can i justuse one side not gettin full bass is that why

[@The01Bookie]

Chris Sanders you should connect to both left and right, as sometimes bass may switch from side to side depending on song.

[@chrissanders9713]

Thanks I wired both sides also my speakers were wired wrong got it goin now

[@neel3397]

Hi can u put a video on a toyota ee101 how to replace its stereo plz a new video

[@dnbstreamer]

its ok if i do this on the hybrid version right? its a 2009 but as long as I have a good 12v battery it should be fine? what do you think?

[@Stevewillsendit-v1]

Is the bass in the system good? I’d like to feel it in the seat when it hits

[@navreetsingh6675]

Hello buddy can you tell me how did you attach the line converter ?

[@ayebemoto4430]

My remote turn on wire won’t work even with the add a circuit

[@egallaty2467]

About to do this, could I use the line out converter on the rear speaker instead of the head unit harness?

[@duceky1977]

Yes that will also work.

[@TopArrowMedia]

Did this work tapping into the rear door speaker? Also can I just use one side (left) or would I have to tap into the right rear door speaker to? Thanks.

[@carlrodriguez7192]

Not like the old school days for sure

[@drunkncle2117]

I did everything you did my shit only works on one RCA!!!!

[@CrotchetRocket]

My god! Isn’t car plastic just the worst!?

[@mitchelm8462]

I love how nun of these videos show where u put the remote wire at and how to wire crap🙄

[@simonramnaraine6280]

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