Pruning Mulberry 2019

[@AAHomeGardening]

Mulberries are so good

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Boy, did you ever put that right! Glad to hear we're not the only ones who are a fan of 'em.

[@AAHomeGardening]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm the first time I tasted it - was my friends' garden and I had to get one - they trained hers to fold over, like a weeping plant (that's how she bought it), but I could not find one like hers or a dwarf - so in the end, I decided to train it myself- so worth it

[@harrygreene8506]

Really appreciate the information density and the fluidity of the editing. Thanks for a solid video.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Harry, thanks for the comment on this one. We're still trying to do what we can to get editing down on these videos. It's one thing to film content and quite another to put it all together!

[@pauliewalnuts2007]

Love your Videos, especially the bloopers. LOL Keep them coming Dwayne.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

pauliewalnuts2007, thanks! We'll keep them coming!

[@annwallace8829]

Thank you! I needed this video!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Glad you found this one useful.

[@marioolivergodoy7954]

Thanks so much for your help. God bless. I will show the results from beginning to end

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Sure thing and God Bless you as well!

[@cleverkimscurios3783]

There is a pear tree and a small stand of mulberry trees (I have no idea what kind, just whatever grows wild I guess) in our rental yard. The city razed the mulberries one year, and they still came back strong the next Spring. I'll have one more season to pick from them and now I wonder if I should be out there pruning too. They, and the pear tree, are super tall now though, and they're not really ours or I'd be way more aggressive. How did you learn pruning stuff? Do you have any books or channels/sites you recommend?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Clever Kim. The pruning has come from a few different sources (besides trial and error over the last few years). Dave Wilson has some great videos on pruning deciduous trees and many of the trees you'll find in the nurseries out here come from them. There is also a guy in England who grows apple trees that I've learned a lot from and his name is Stephen Hayes (should be able to find his channel under our channels tab). As for your trees, I would probably try to find some of the smaller branches towards the bottom part of the tree that you can prune back to encourage branching down low so you can reach the fruit a little easier. It's a great way to get some experience with pruning and what it does to fruit production.

[@LisaKnobel]

Found out I have an invasive white mulberry on my property. I pruned it back hard to a few branches to make a nice bush for picking. Had a great crop this year on both new and old branches. Hopefully, I can keep it manageable. My neighbor has a red mulberry so maybe I'll try getting some cuttings of that to root.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Lisa! It sounds like you're seeing the amazing resilience of mulberry trees. Much like you're describing, it seems the harder you prune them back the more growth and production you see the following year. Truly amazing trees!

[@LisaKnobel]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm first year I got to get any fruit. Been getting about 1.5 cups a day. I think I have a few more days of picking. Hopefully I'll have enough for a nice batch of jelly.

[@wheelmanstan]

I've grown all kinds of trees, really hardy ones, from seed and have had insane weather from freezes to droughts or endless rain (I'm in that part of Texas that gets all the storms) and I swear the red mulberry tree is the baddest dude out there...even surviving in small pots. My brother has some on his property growing in the hardest clay imaginable and he'll go without 2 months of rain and then hit below zero with really high winds...they're still alive out there. It's crazy. And they grow very quickly. I got a 3 year old in the ground that's 10ft now...and now has buds. haha, I'll likely propagate it because I'm sure they'll propagate well.

[@swampwitchin]

Hey guys, thanks for another super useful video! Just wondering if you use pruning paint on the largest cut, or let the tree heal naturally? Thanks :)

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Linda! Glad you're enjoying the content and that's a great question. We don't use anything on the pruning cuts for a couple of reasons. The primary reason is our weather. Here in the Phoenix area we are very dry with typical humidity levels below 30% (single digits many times of the year), so the cuts heal over naturally very fast. We also limit most of our pruning to the winter season when the trees are dormant. This way there is not any sap running from the pruning cuts.

[@hjd832]

Thank you, reassuring, I was worried about it getting out of control height-wise.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Yeah, these trees are pretty forgiving, so it's easy for them to bounce right back.

[@workwillfreeyou]

Thank you. Could the branch that you cut off be rooted?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Great question and yes you definitely could root these after your pruning is complete. Mulberry trees will root out quite easily from hard wood cuttings.

[@LeifLorentz]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Waow. I have never pruned my mulberry tree and now it is a skinny, dying tree which gives 3 berries every year LOL!!! Better get started.

[@Pippie5555]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Would you cut off a branch and stick it directly in the soil? Or first in water for a few days?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@LeifLorentz it's amazing how these trees respond to regular pruning. More so than apples and stone fruit which both do really well with consistent pruning also.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@Pippie5555 great question! It depends on the environment and time of year. If it's a hard cutting taking during the winter you can probably put it right into soil and have a decent chance at them taking. Rooting hormone is the key and we use that all the time.

[@marioolivergodoy7954]

Hi Mr Dwayne thanks for all the videos you are making. We just did heavy pruning on our mulberry trees cut it back to 6 feet. Am I getting fruits afterwards. When is the best month to prune the fruiting mulberry trees? We are from Vegas. Thanks

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Mario. Your fruit will come on all the branching that occurs this year from your tree. Pruning will force the tree to produce more branching, so it should help with fruit production. As for pruning, you're in a similar climate to us, so now is the best time to prune when the tree is dormant. Hope this helps!

[@juliejoy3558]

So everything I’ve seen says that mulberries can take a hard prune, etc. So last fall I heavily pruned my everbearing mulberry here in Florida while it was dormant and while it grew like crazy this year I didn’t see one single fruit. It was so sad. Any thoughts? Thanks for the video and I love the notch tip!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Julie. So we have an ever bearing also, but it only bears for us in the spring (too hot in the summer and it goes dormant in the winter. I've seen some videos of folks in FL and they are truly ever bearing. I'm not sure if that's making a difference or not, but our ever bearing did produce this spring after a strong pruning this winter. I suppose it's possible it had some shock if it's not a normal process for the tree (do you normally prune it heavy?), but that hasn't been our experience with our mulberry varieties here.

[@gracewright7938]

In Phoenix, when to prune: January, February or March? I found it in your answer Winter so I'll wait until February, thanks. Great Video

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Sounds like you found it, but it's pretty much the month of January (sometimes late December). Some peaches and apples can break dormancy in late January. With warm weather we can get bud break on almost everything sometime in February!

[@TheCompleteGuitarist]

I've watched a couple of your videos. Want to say thanks. I subscribed. Watching the pruning and seeing the end result (having watched in reverse order) it's great to see the progress so thanks for sharing that. A very useful video.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey there! Glad you found us and are enjoying the content!

[@TheCompleteGuitarist]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I am in the southern hemisphere coming out of winter and had a 2 year old enormous mulberry to deal with. I wanted a manageable tree that would give me fruit and watching your videos gave me the confidence to get on with it, so now it's done. I even left a 'notch' where I think I will be able to get into pick fruit.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@TheCompleteGuitarist Wow, so you're almost directly opposite of where we are (we have several viewers in Australia that are heading into winter now). Would love to see pics of you tree!

[@TheCompleteGuitarist]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Just coming out here, it's almost spring so I am very late and the tree is on the verge of shooting, so I hope I caught it in time. I'll try to post some pics if I can.

[@TheSuburbanGardenista]

Super helpful - thank you!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Glad you found this one useful!

[@teachvida]

Hello again! So keep the main branches we want and prune the little ones... Then new ones will grow on those main branches again?! Then when it goes dormant, we prune it and do the same thing again? Just want to make sure I'm understanding what you're doing; I think I'm just amazed by all of this! If I wanted to grow the tree branches out wide instead of a v shape, is it just as easy? Would the "notch" you created to get on the inside still work? Or maybe I wouldn't need it if the branches were extending more out than up? Thank you for the video!!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Ana! We like to prune most (not all) of the smaller branches off, leaving the "scaffolding" of the older branching. Mulberries, like figs, can grow roots and branching from the trunk of the tree. They usually branch from a "node" on the branch, so when you're pruning you'll want to keep that in mind. Especially if you're trying to grow it out vs. up (look for outward facing nodes so the new branch grows out instead of in). The notch fills in with branching by the end of the season, so we have to prune it out each winter, but if you're pruning it to a wider tree you will probably have naturally occurring harvest notches. Hope this helps!

[@amandakumikokent1248]

So is fall pruning after production ok? Better? Worse? Thank you.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

You'll have to clarify where you're located as all of our production is completed in the Spring. However, I would wait until the tree is dormant which is shortly after the Fall growing season. This minimizes the chances of infection as the sap is not running during the dormancy period. Mulberries can "bleed" profusely from wounds that happen during the growing season.

[@amandakumikokent1248]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm I am in southeastern Idaho, a zone 6b. The trees are way over grown and a hard winter last year really has them tipping over. They have an end of finger length dark berry and produce in the late summer early fall. So they are slowing down right now in late August. Pruning them hard before winter might help them from having all the snow weight if it’s a bad year again.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@amandakumikokent1248 ah ok, I had a feeling you were probably in a cooler climate. The concern I would have is any open wound heading into the dormant season. Particularly if you get moisture around the pruning timeframe as that is how disease could be introduced, especially if the sap is still running (you can use a pruning sealant if sap is not running). If it were me I would wait until it's completely dormant. If you're thinking of giving this a shot, prune sparingly and only smaller branches to minimize the amount of open wound on the tree. Once it's dormant you can prune as needed and I imagine that's probably still during the Fall season (November/December) in Idaho. For us here in AZ, Fall just means temps below 90 degrees! Hopefully this helps.

[@budwilson6877]

Can you use the cuttings for smoking wood?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

I imagine you probably could, but they may burn a bit quicker than some of the harder woods like cherry. Then again, apple is pretty soft also and makes for a fantastic smoking wood!

[@ars43]

If the cut branches are planted, will they grow ?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Yes, you can root cuttings from mulberry prunings.

[@brandontillery2715]

Enjoyed the video. Just liked and subscribed

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Glad you found us and enjoyed this one. Welcome to the farm!

[@richardtomlinson3144]

Thanks you answered my questions.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Glad you found this one useful!

[@janaeggleston8118]

We let our black mulberry get way out of hand. It is now about 20 feet with a trunk that is about 9 inches in diameter. Think we can trim it down without losing the tree?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Jana. Mulberry trees are VERY resilient to heavy pruning and as long as it continues to put on strong growth you can be pretty aggressive with your pruning cuts this Winter to tame it a bit. How old is the tree?

[@parastoon3706]

Any suggestions on pruning weeping mulberries?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Great question Parastoo. That really depends on what you're wanting from the tree. If it's production you'll want to make cuts that encourage the tree to put on new growth which is where you'll see your fruit production (Fruit develops from new growth that comes from wood that is at least a year old). Most folks with a weeping tree want to keep that weeping structure, so I would concentrate on pruning under the "umbrella" to keep the shape and then come back and cut back the canopy 20-30%. You can do that in a uniform manner making the canopy all the same length, or you can make alternating cuts throughout the canopy with some branching cut back 10-20% and other branches 30-40% or more. One of the great things with mulberry trees is they tend to grow quite aggressively, so if you don't like the way it looks one year you can always come back and reshape it the next.

[@johnstock6792]

I have an illinois everberry, 15 ft high,was here when I moved in 5yrs ago new neighbor behind me wants me to cut all branches dropping berries on his side of fence it's mid summer. Doable now?

[@LusterLayers]

Great video! I have two volunteer mulberry trees in my yard--one of them fruited for the first time this spring, so I'm trying to figure out how best to care for them. Unfortunately, they are both growing from the base of our fences (I suspect an animal of some kind "planted" them while sitting on the fence). If I keep them pruned short (say down to 4'-5' in dormancy) will they still destroy the fences? I was thinking of doing something like espalier with them. Thanks!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Free mulberry trees just have to be the one of the greatest gifts you could ask for! However, they typically have VERY aggressive root systems and it may be an issue for your fence. If you're going to try keeping them you can easily prune to an espalier style. It may take some work keeping them that small depending on the variety, but if you can swing it I'd love to see some pics!

[@LusterLayers]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thank you! I'm sure I'll make the attempt this winter (I may do some experimental pruning in a few weeks anyway) so when I have some pics I'll send them your way.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@LusterLayers That would be great. We love seeing what everyone else out there is doing!

[@MohsinRaza-ii6fm]

New growth will come from any part of the big stems or only on small stems or only dormant buds?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Great question Mohsin. Depending on the circumstances you can get growth anywhere on the tree. If you prune the tree it will usually push growth from the next bud. However, if you prune it heavy it can produce directly from the trunk if it needs to.

[@MohsinRaza-ii6fm]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm i am willing to graft another variety on my black mulberry. The tree is young 2 years and have 6 branches only like straw of length one feet so if i graft every single one on the tips will they continue growing on the tips on new variety or send growth on back of the branches? Hope i can explain the situation here. Or i try on one branch first then move to other but if time pass the stem will grow thick and it will change the basic desired shape.

[@MohsinRaza-ii6fm]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thank you. I will try.

[@sdqsdq6274]

notice pruning videos when there no leaves , here theres no winter ,probably summer all year long ,can i prune aggressively with leaves on ?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey sdq. Great question and I'm not completely sure. I'm assuming you're in a tropical climate if you're not seeing any dormancy on your trees, so I would imagine fungal disease would be a concern when pruning non-dormant trees. Where are you located?

[@thomasa5619]

I’m on the Tropic of Capricorn like 20 miles from the beach in Australia and my mulberry still drops leaves for winter? It reaches 100° during summer and in winter temperatures are as high as like 60° on a cold day?

[@jasongugliotta9792]

Are the tips shared here similar for a weeping mulberry tree? Rookie here...

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Jason, that's a great question and for the most part yes. The main difference with weeping trees is you need to prune from the bottom up as you want to ensure you're keeping that weeping canopy intact. With a standard tree you can prune from the top down to control overall tree size/height and then clean up the bottom and thin as needed while you go. Are you trying to create more of an umbrella with space underneath?

[@jasongugliotta9792]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Yes. I am hoping for a bit more space underneath for some shade. If possible encouraging a bit more height would be nice as well, although I think we have a smaller variety of tree.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@jasongugliotta9792 ok, so starting from the bottom up is definitely what you'll want to do. Tree height is driven by variety and root stock, although most mulberry trees are taken from cuttings and not grated to root stocks. When you prune, the tree will respond with growth to replace the foliage it needs to drive root growth, fruiting, etc. If you start from the bottom and then continue inside the canopy (in your case with a weeping tree, umbrella) you'll do as much as possible to encourage that upwards and outward growth. Also keep an eye on the position of the branching "nodes" where you make your cuts. You want to find a node that is pointing in the direction you want the new shoot to grow. So if you're pruning under the umbrella, try to make the cut at a node that is pointing out vs inside the umbrella. That's not foolproof, but usually gets the branching headed into the right direction. Hope this helps and if you wouldn't mind sharing, we'd love to see a pic of your tree. You can email us or find us on FB or Insta. Email is in the about tab here on KZbin. Good luck!

[@addisonfamily5156]

I just purchased a mulberry tree and I was wondering what month I should start pruning my tree? I have it in a pot and it is about 9 ft tall. I'm in zone 9. If u have time to help me out that would be great if not I understand. Thanks isaac

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Isaac! Wow, to have a 9' tall tree right off the bat, that is nice! You can prune your tree any time during the dormant season. Most of us in Zone 9 will need to wait until mid-winter to get this done, but the key is waiting until the tree has dropped all of it's leaves. Trees in pots tend to be a little less predictable on when this will happen, but as long as it's outside you shouldn't have a problem.

[@danielfisch655]

Does your mulberry tree produce a lot of pollen, one of our daughters is highly allergic.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Daniel. These are female trees, so they don't produce pollen (or at least not much). The male varieties are the pollen producers and they are what you'll find giving people all kinds of problems in town with allergies. We both tend to get an allergic response in the spring from a few of the trees, but no issues with the mulberry trees.

[@danielfisch655]

Edge of Nowhere Farm thank you for clarifying that, I was mistaken and need to do more research.

[@jeanineadele]

Are mulberries toxic to humans? Toxicity: All parts of white mulberry, except for the ripe fruit, contain a milky sap (latex) that is toxic to humans. Although humans may consume ripe mulberry fruit, ingestion of unripe fruit can result in stomach upset, stimulation of the nervous system and hallucinations Sourced: www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/single_weed.php?id=77

[@pittilinster7526]

hello , i do have an illinois everbearing of 2 years in the chickenyard , its only 3 branches and aproximative 1,5 meter high - what would be the best time to take cuttings and which size should i cut it down many thx

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey there Pitti. We usually take cuttings either during the growing season or during the dormant period when we're pruning the trees back. Both have been successful for us, but the dormant season cuttings usually take a bit more work to get rooted. As for your tree, you'll want to remove no more than about 30% of the total branching for the tree. You can do this with one large cutting (say in the middle of the tree to open up the center) or with smaller cuts on many branches if you're wanting to shape the tree. The great part about mulberries is there really isn't a specific tree shape that you need to keep. The key with fruit production is encouraging the tree to create new branching from wood that is at least 1 year old. This is where you get your fruit set in the spring. Hopefully this helps!

[@pittilinster7526]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm thanks so much for your response

[@RH-zc5dq]

whn is right time to prune??

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

We prune all of our trees when they are dormant in the middle of Winter.

[@annestudley8235]

Thank you for this detailed video. I have a few questions: First, If fruit grows on new growth, then why are you pruning off all of those small branches - wouldn't they be new growth and the large ones be old growth? Second, I ordered a bare mulberry tree that will be delivered in the spring (I'm in Nova Scotia), and I'm wondering if I should prune what I get to shape as soon as I get it into the ground or wait a year. I definitely want to keep it to easy reaching size. Finally, if the tree is pruned to a smallish size each year, would that keep the root system from becoming massive?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Anne, those are some great questions. I should clarify that the new growth can come from anywhere on the tree and even older growth will have "nodes" that shoots can grow from to create new branching that will produce fruit. For your bare root tree you can cut it back to a smaller size based on the size you're wanting to maintain at planting. Actually, this is the best way to control tree size, because the more root to branching ratio you have as a newly planted tree the better it can be for those roots to establish. As for your last question, that's mainly dependent on the variety of tree and how aggressive it will/can grow. Generally speaking mulberry trees have very aggressive root systems and while it may limit the amount of root growth by cutting back the branching it's not going to stop them from continuing to expand.

[@annestudley8235]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thanks a lot for your answers, Dwane. Regarding pruning a newly planted bare root sapling, so if my sapling is 18" tall and I want the tree to stay at, say, 8', how far down would I prune that 18" sapling? And what height would you suggest is best for picking? (I'm 5'3") Regarding the root system, my yard isn't that big, and where I'm planning to plant it is about 10' from a dwarf Japanese maple and 8' from my driveway. Would the root system tear up my driveway and/or kill the Japanese maple?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@annestudley8235 if the sapling is only 18" tall you will want to wait until the next dormant season to prune it back. You won't have much in the way of nodes or buds for branching to sprout from if you cut it back any further. The height is really up to you. I'm 5'10, so not much taller and we keep our trees around 10' tall. This allows the tree to give some shade and also enough branching to give us a good harvest. I don't think you'll have a problem with your trees in regards to the rooting of your mulberry. It's hard to say for sure on the driveway, but I've seen older mulberry trees about the same distance from driveways in Phoenix with no issues. Is this an aggressively growing variety for your area?

[@annestudley8235]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Thank you Dwane. I ordered an Illinois Everbearing, the only one I could find. It's from PEI, which is very close to Nova Scotia, where I live, but it's new at that nursery (Veseys Seeds), so I really have no idea how aggressive it will be. I don't know anyone with mulberry trees. I just ordered this one because I ate some dried mulberries recently and loved them and found out that they could grow in my climate (zone 5b-6a and generally pretty wet and windy. So exactly what height should I prune it to in the 2nd dormant season to maintain a 10' height with lots of fruiting branches?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@annestudley8235 ah, ok that definitely helps with this as we have a few of those as well. That variety is more of a dwarfing/bush variety and will be much easier for you to control. See how it grows out for that first growing season and train it like a bush vs a tree (it should naturally grow this way). Because of the typical bushing habit you should see lots of branching low on the tree with pretty dense foliage and branching. I'll link a video we did recently on these trees here so you can see what yours will look like. They may not grow quite as fast as these, but they should look generally the same; kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqbXkKefqtyHfqM

[@addisonfamily5156]

I use a 5-2-6 on my citrus trees can I use that on my mulberry? And yes I am a newbie at gardening lol. I have subscribed to ur channel

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey there, glad you found us! Your mulberry trees should do fine with pretty much any standard fruit tree fertilizer. They typically grow very quickly and that fertilizer will definitely help!

[@blaynesplantvlog7117]

Can you do a video on mulberry this next spring?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Blaynes, yes! We plan on going over pruning on all of our fruit tree varieties this coming winter. All of the trees on the new farm will have their first round of pruning, so it's a bit unique.

[@moo3852]

How old are the trees you are pruning?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

These would have been in the ground for about 3 years at this point.

[@addisonfamily5156]

How often do I fertilize? Thanks isaac

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey guys! That depends on what type of fertilizer you're using as I'm assuming you're talking about fruit trees. We use a mixture of compost and/or pelletized fertilizer. Both of these take time to break down and penetrate the soil and we also put them into our wood chip mulch which also releases them over time. For this type of fertilizer you would fertilize 3 times a year. For us here in Arizona that would be in February (before bud break), May (during peak spring/summer growth) and September (before fall flush). If you're using a liquid fertilizer you would fertilize more often, either monthly or every other month during the growing season.

[@carriad11]

Greetings from Nova Scotia, Canada! Recently acquired a new young red mulberry. Would prefer to keep a good picking height. My pruning question more relates to bleeding; I have read that mulberry bleed profusely. Is it more than most fruit trees? Will winter prevent most of the bleeding! Take care and stay safe!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hello in Canada!! Congrats on your new mulberry tree. You just can't go wrong with mulberries. The short answer is yes, they do bleed sap and they won't bleed during the dormant season. That's why you see us pruning them here without leaves. I would say they bleed less than a fig tree, but more than stone fruit trees. Good luck with your new tree!

[@bwang5176]

I had my mulberry tree for more than ten years,but it never produe a sigle fruit .what is pasiablem problem? Thanks for your help.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey there! That's a great question and I can't say for sure. If you haven't seen any fruit it's possible you have a male mulberry tree. They are common and they produce the pollen that the female trees need to make viable seeds when they produce fruit. You'll be able to tell if you get catkins that never turn into fruit, because both of them produce a catkin. However, the female catkin turns into fruit. Hope this helps!

[@medstudent585]

Thank you for the video, we planted a few mulberry trees and they’re getting berries, but the problem is that the berries are not getting plump for some reason, They get red/blackish but they look dried up and not plump at all for some reason. Do you have any idea what the problem might be?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hmm. It could be a few things, but it sounds like it's probably an irrigation issue. These trees need consistent moisture levels, especially while they're fruiting. Plenty of woodchip mulch and infrequent, deep watering is what we use to make sure our fruit trees have that consistent moisture. Are you here in AZ?

[@medstudent585]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm ohh I see, that could be the problem since it’s really sunny here. Nope I live in Kuwait 😁 which is in the Middle East

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@medstudent585 ah yes, very similar climate to ours. That moisture is key for us both, so a little mulch and deep watering should help you out!

[@medstudent585]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm noted, thank you so much! 😄

[@johnkaimins9998]

Hello! ~ Greetings from Adelaide South Australia! Hope you guys are all well. Question ~ do you ever propagate your mulberries from cuttings? Hardwood? Semi ripe?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey John, glad to hear from you in Australia! We haven't technically done cuttings with mulberries, but we have propagated them through air layering. We air layer during the growing season, so cuttings I assume would be best done during the winter. That's how we've done our fig cuttings and that dormant season on hardwood has done well for us. I assume the mulberries would probably be the same. For you guys that would be now I suppose!

[@johnkaimins9998]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm Yes ~ now is winter time for us here in the Southern Hemisphere. I have just planted some hardwood black mulberry cuttings, using honey as an antiseptic & root promoter. I also wounded the lower part of the cutting by scraping off the bark to promote rooting. Fingers crossed!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@johnkaimins9998 very cool. Please let us know how those turn out for you. We always have plenty of excess cuttings after pruning and have never tried to root them out before.

[@johnkaimins9998]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm OK ~ I will keep you posted!

[@Pippie5555]

@@johnkaimins9998 Any news John?

[@beebop9808]

So prune it like a fig tree with blackberries you mean? :)

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Bee Bop! That is actually a very good description of pruning mulberries. They both take a beating and come back stronger because of it!

[@djhal7961]

Hi! Great video. I have some questions if you don't mind? (1) Unfortunately, we've been told by our HOA to cut back our mulberry tree, right in the middle of summer (Pennsylvania - July). I know it's not the ideal time to prune these trees, but whatever I do will most certainly be less harmful than some low cost landscapers with penchant for chainsaws! Do you have any recommendations for pruning mulberry trees this late in the season? (2) Also, unfortunately, one of the main beams coming off of the main trunk has decided it enjoys the bond it has made with the railing of our raised deck. Obviously, removing this beam will be bittersweet as the tree provides bountiful shade over our deck and easy berry picking halfway up our tree. Removing this beam will provide at least another 10 or 15 years before we need to reconfigure our deck to conform to our tree. Do you have any suggestions for doing what seemed quite similar to the largest branch/trunk removal in your video, except that we are in the middle of summer? (3) Lastly, I understand that mulberry trees have quite vigorous root systems. Unfortunately, we have a tree that took root next to our foundation. I keep cutting it down to a nub, but it keeps coming back. I am hesitant to use a stump killer, as I don't know if this stump is part of our larger tree. The stump is out well past the canopy of our tree. It's probably at least 20 feet beyond the canopy of our cherished tree. Do you think it would be safe to use a stump killer on this stump, before it takes out the sidewall of our basement? I hope I didn't scare you off with these questions! LoL. Thanks.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Eben. Boy, you have quite the challenge ahead of you here. It might be easier to answer your questions over email as opposed to here on KZbin. Also, it would really help to see pics of the tree and stump/root you're dealing with. Our email is in the About tab here on KZbin, so shoot us over some pics so we can try to figure this out.

[@farhadalavimehr]

❤

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Ah yes, this is an old one!

[@ElectricBoogaloo007]

4:40 Is that the Corona 3180? How do you like it?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Thuddy. Yes, it is the 3180 and it's a great pair of pruners. They hold an edge really well and are very easy to sanitize. Simple and no fuss.

[@bluezoo197]

Thuddy Waters Hey we just moved into a house. That already had a mulberry tree in our backyard. But they left it grow way too high that, We can't even get any. And it makes a big mess in are backyard. How am I able to cut it down low to the ground? But without killing it, we do wanna keep it. But it's hard when we always get a big mess when spring comes.

[@davidhazen2394]

I would like to know what to do with a new 5-6 foot Mulberry Tree I got from fastgrowingtrees.com. What do you do with younger trees. Do you prune them or just let them go then prune later?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey David, great question. If this is coming to you bare root then you'll want to plant it immediately when you receive it. If it's potted you can wait until spring to plant it, but here in AZ you don't have to wait. You won't need to fertlize until it's in the ground for 6 months and then follow a regular fertilizing schedule. Mulch the tree with woodchips in at least a 6' diameter circle to keep soil moisture and temp moderate. Keep the mulch away from the trunk. Biggest thing here is to realize that mulberry trees get massive and have very aggressive root systems, so watch planting them close to fencing and definitely want them a good distance from home foundations. Hope this helps!

[@michaellewis6569]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm if they are kept very small by pruning to a few feet wide and 4' tall perhaps, would massive root system still be a concern?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@michaellewis6569 great question. My understanding is, unlike grasses, the roots on trees continue to grow even when they are pruned heavily. That being said, the more branching/leaving the tree is allowed to have the faster the root systems are going to grow as the leaves are what feeds the tree and allows root production.

[@peterstevens4223]

G00D Morning from Auckland, New Zealand it’s Monday, November 25, 2019.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey Peter! Good morning from Phoenix, AZ....same day but 17 hours later!!

[@peterstevens4223]

@@EdgeofNowhereFarm 0h! So we here in New Zealand, are in the future?!

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@peterstevens4223 Either that or we're a little slow. It's a toss up!

[@Pippie5555]

And "hi" from UAE. Desert climate.

[@peterstevens4223]

@@Pippie5555 And hello, it's coming into spring here in NZ.

[@mayfontanez3001]

I’m getting ready to cry and saddened😢 because of all the pruning and getting rid of all the branches. I guess I’ll have to trust the professionals.

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hi May, you and Lori have the same response when it comes to this. The amazing thing about mulberries is how strongly they respond to pruning. Hang in there!

[@thomasa5619]

Ugh, just checked temps in my area against US zones and mulberries are recommence 5-9? Well I’m in 10b Tree was regifted/scavenged from a relative who bought it with no real plans so unknown roots and unknown top Travelling railway job makes regular maintenance difficult but it’s MUCH slower growing than yours

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hmm, that is a bit of a challenge if it's a more cold hardy variety. I know the Illinois Everbearing and the Shangri La should do well for you as they thrive in Florida.

[@thomasa5619]

Well where my grandmother bought it was about a mile from the beach, although 200 miles further to the south, so perhaps a little colder there And she ended up buying another one after my mother brought the first one up to me, and her second one with more attention than mine gets, is doing much better

[@thomasa5619]

It’s doing alright, got some fruit this year, should get a decent little harvest in 6 months and will experiment with pruning. I noticed another catkin on it a few days ago (well, just before I had to leave town again for work), been none for the last couple months

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

@@thomasa5619 it's not going to hurt to do some strategic pruning. Fingers crossed it will get to work on production for you!

[@thomasa5619]

Being “not yet winter” I’ll try to take and root a mango cutting as a project among projects Do you have any advice on specific times to plant? Or is it only relevant with deciduous trees?

[@billphoenix7727]

can u send me some cuttings plz?

[@EdgeofNowhereFarm]

Hey there! We're not currently set up to ship cuttings, but we have had a lot of folks ask us to start. If we do offer that in the future we'll market those to our customer email list. If you want to join that you can sign up at our website or email us your contact info. Our email is in the About tab here on KZbin.