PSI 3-Step Lathe Buffing System Review and Test

Assembly and test of the PSI 3-Step Lathe Buffing System LBUFFSYS.
amzn.to/2JyIaFh
I'm really impressed by this system; the parts are solid, the results were great! I did attempt to knock off some of the fibers before loading the wheels, both with a sharp board and with 60 grit paper, but that didn't help at all. As noted in the video, the machining of the taper is poor but I don't believe it hurt my head stock at all. I will be sanding it to take any burrs off and hopefully get a better fit. I wouldn't stick it in a new $5000 lathe though.
This is a paid affiliate link that doesn't affect the cost of the item and help me to create more content. I am a member of the Amazon affiliates program and may receive a commission on items purchased through these links.

[@jettkeyser9909]

Very useful…just now shopping for a system…Found this one…and looked it up…and you appeared…Thank you

[@StephensPenTurnings]

Just bought mine about a week ago, I have found I can stop wet-sanding resin pens at 1000 then 3 wheel buff. Not a huge time saver but over time the system vs many sets of micromesh pads will pay for itself. And of course bowls.

[@hoganbaker2067]

Awesome! Good to hear that it works well with epoxy. I just got a second hand pressure pot and now there are infinite possibilities

[@kellyklaask7su990]

Thinking of getting one of these for home made chess pieces. Thanks for the review!

[@MikePeaceWoodturning]

Looks like a good economy buffing system. I think it worth noting that the Beall 3 in 1 costs almost twice as much but I believe a better turned MT and the mandrel is 2" longer. Also, the Beall wheels have far more plys.

[@RickTurnsWoodturning]

Excellent review, Hogan!

[@hoganbaker2067]

Thank you, Rick!

[@scottym50]

I'm a little late to the party, but this may still help someone. I use a buffing rake on my buffing wheels when I first put them on. It cuts down the fuzz a lot. Just do them whenever you need to. I use the Kings buffing rake, it really doesn't matter, I just like Kings products. They start at below 10.00 and go up. My Kings was less than 20.00 and I doubt that I will never have to buy another.

[@hoganbaker2067]

How have i never know about these... Thanks for the tip, I will definitely pick one up!

[@brettlowery3121]

I'm just beginning with the woodworking I do have a spare wooden lathe, can you tell me where you got that, and do you think you can measure how much of that tapered in went inside that machine and file those threads down???

[@user-dj5bi6xd5x]

Hi, can this process be used for leather with thesame material you use!

[@JourneymanCoup]

Thanks for the video... short/sweet & right to the point. The question I found myself asking at the ends regards speed. At what speed did you use the wheel for your bowl? After using it for some time now, is there a speed you would recommend using? Finally, would that speed defer for pens to bowls, or wood to acrylic?

[@stevepyka758]

The instructions say 3000 RPMs

[@kylewo0]

3000! Lol I don’t think I have ever rev’d my lathe over 1000 🤣🤣🤣. I May try this buffer tho

[@michaelseamus2112]

How long does this type of finish typically last and how much would you charge for any maintenance buffing on an item for someone that purchased one?

[@hoganbaker2067]

The high gloss finish fades after a few months, but a lot of that would depend on how much it is handled. As a result of the buffing steps it is still smoother than it was at 400 grit or so. The carnauba wax would come off at the first wash. The wax or oil finish does attract dust faster than a chemical finish, but it retains the natural wood feel. Personally I would rebuff the carnauba wax for free as it would take less than a minute or two.

[@michaelseamus2112]

@@hoganbaker2067 thank you for the reply, yea I expected there to be variables and my goal is to keep the look and feel of wood on my turned items. for pens I have been using mylands and then buff carnuba wax, and some with just 2 coats of a paste wax for more of a matte or satin finish but also easily maintained by the user but I feel that I have to use a ca finish for the razors I'm making now even though it changes so much of the look and feel of the wood blank do you think mineral oil and or butcher block conditioner could be used as a finish for razors that don't live in the shower? And yes I would definitely rebuff for free for anyone that can come by but I think I'll have to charge something for people that I've shipped to. Just to cover cost of shipping and packaging if that sounds fair..just starting out really but it has taken off quicker than I thought so thank you very much for getting back to me and any other tips would be greatly appreciated

[@DancingFox6]

I noticed you didn’t polish the inside of your bowl. How is that done? I’ve only used my system once, and found the wheels too close together to polish an 8 inch dish. 😟 altogether, I regret my purchase.

[@hoganbaker2067]

Thanks for sharing your experience with it! Sorry you didn't find it useful. I think most woodturners don't polish the inside of bowls the the same degree as the outside. I am getting some buffing balls and hopefully that will take care of the inside issue, if you have a drill chuck you can mount them right into the headstock. Good luck!

[@bradnerbond6355]

I picked up a number of small cotton tips/balls for the dremel and that's been working very well on the insides

[@hoganbaker2067]

@@bradnerbond6355 Great idea!

[@hoganbaker2067]

Avaliable on Amazon amzn.to/2JyIaFh . Although the flannel wheel is still shedding (not as much as at first) I still feel that this is great price and has really stepped up my finishing game! This is a paid affiliate link that doesn't affect the cost of the item and help me to create more content. I am a member of the Amazon affiliates program and may receive a commission on items purchased through these links.

[@Taylexwow]

They totally ground that taper from threaded rod.....you can see the remaining lines from the threads.....or horrible machining or both