Q1: Shooting in Harsh Light Q2: Hi-Res vs Focus Bracketing; Ask Rob Trek ep.479

[@happyducky1143]

Thank you, Rob, for answering my question by carefully demonstrating with your images. That makes sense. Love your high-res stitched image. Very impressive! You’re the best!

[@RobTrek]

Happy to help. Thanks!

[@macmannm]

Thanks!

[@RobTrek]

Thank you!

[@oneeyedphotographer]

For your fan in the Middle East, did you mention exposure bracketing? I do high contrast black and white photograph, in Western Australia, not the ME. I shoot for the light, commonly across it so I have sides of buildings, of round objects such as trees with one side more brightly illuminated than the other. Sometimes, for rim lighting. On one occasion I saw specular reflections from buildings in Perth reflecting the setting sun, so I set the exposure for the specular highlights. The buildings included Rio Tinto and BHP, so "The Golden Glow of Money".

[@RobTrek]

Yes, I mentioned bracketing briefly at the end. Thanks for the tips.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

I do a lot of macro photography. I would dearly like focus stacking and high resolution in the same shot. Our peacock spiders at 1:1 cover as much as 1/3 of an M43 sensor. Some of our plants are much smaller. When you get down there, you see all sorts of things smaller than you could imagine.

[@RobTrek]

I guess another limitation to combining the two features would be time. Stacking 15 images x 15 images could take a while!

[@oneeyedphotographer]

@@RobTrek I'd be happy if OM Workspace could do all the aligning and stacking ;ater. Something is better than nothing. I do stacking in Photoshop, the camera possibly isn't fast enough to make 30 50 or 80 megapixels images in double quick time, but it could have been made with a big enough buffer, even a modest amount o SSD storage, It could even write images to alternate cards.

[@oneeyedphotographer]

I can't even do time-lapse plus high res, or any kind of bracketing. Oh, exposure brackets. I want the ability to say how many shots, and how big an exposure difference I want. Both Lumix and Olympus camera have hard-baked hard=baked combinations the manufacturers chose. They do not always suit me. I might even want thre or four shots of the same exposure every minute. Weird? Some photographers do weird things.

[@Dwarf-Encounters]

Rob Trek Live Boost 9/2/23 Hi Rob, I'll find out tonight if the weather permits and start a photo session on the planet Jupiter. I tried this the last time, photographing it with a diagonal mirror and got very poor results. They recommended to me photographing the planet without the diagonal. Can other glass produce burry images in the optical train? For me I have a Meade 90mm ETX at 1250mm focal length and a F ratio of f13, what is a typical exposure value and what do you recommend on setting on my Olympus M4/3 M5 Mark2 camera? I use it in manual mode and make my settings on the camera. I found in the live view on the screen, is that live boost needs to be off. Otherwise it won't show the exposure changes. This is On1 settings on the Olympus. I think it should be off. I just need a general number to work with in this setup, that's all. Anything, even a Canon or a Nikon ball park numbers. Can you help me? I had a rough time in exposing Jupiter and I'm trying to get the 2 cloud bands. It is said anything that is glass will give me poor results. So I should use the telescope and camera as a straight through optical train. Can an UHC filter produce better planet surface details? I don't know if this filter will block out the infrared wavelengths which is what I'm trying to accomplish here! Is there any other filters that you recommend to use? I found from my last session is I only take one picture when I think I have the right settings. The altitude of the planet is about 50° above the horizon. And I still think I get atmospheric distortions and air mass movements, moving in the upper atmosphere, that causes the image to bounce up and down. Even standing near the telescope can transmit vibrations from the ground because of the high magnification. So I found I step away from the telescope and remotely take photos in a continuous snap shots mode for at least 50 to 100 pictures. Then I can view them on a computer screen like Lightroom or photoshop or phone or tablet for each images and pick out the best images. I found that there might be a brief time period where these shots will have no atmospheric turbulence and no ground vibrations. Then I should get a pretty decent image. At least one best one. It's all about timing. It's that one moment where everything is just right. The right conditions. The telescope has tracking for star movements. So my camera is the Olympus M5 Mark2 in manual mode. Because it's a bright planet, the exposure values I found were anything greater than a second with over exposure the planet and the highlights get clipped. I have a custom histogram where the highlights are set to 245 and the shadows are set at 10. So my image is blown out and shows red on the live screen! I have to tone that down to some given number. What would you do. Have you done this type of work in the past? Please help me if you can! Ron Przybylo 😀 share.icloud.com/photos/001rm1F_C_yMixYEsGIkU7HPg

[@RobTrek]

I've not done any planetary photography. I did try something once with my 300mm f/4, but it was soft and I could just barely make out any rings. This kind of photography is way beyond my ability as I don't have the gear or experience. I have done some deep sky images of the usual targets - andromeda, pleades, orion, etc... I'd recommend you check out the m4/3 astrophotography group on facebook. If you're not on facebook, my friend Ben at the Narrowband Channel can help you. He uses Olympus cameras and telescopes. facebook.com/groups/1705275456416834 www.youtube.com/@TheNarrowbandChannel Also, this guy does planetary stuff with Olympus gear attached to telescopes. He is very helpful. facebook.com/groups/1705275456416834/user/673965568/

[@dretwav]

Not sure if this is the appropriate place to ask a completely unrelated question but ... : I have two OM-1 and one of the bluetooth remotes (RM-WR1). I cannot use the remote with both cameras. I have to re-pair each time I switch. Is there a solution or do I have to buy a second remote (and then get confused as to which remote goes with which camera)?

[@RobTrek]

It seems you can only pair one camera at a time. I thought maybe you could use the wired cable at the same time, but you can't. Maybe try a cable splitter? I don't know if that would work and you won't be wireless. Otherwise, you'd have to buy a second remote. I suppose you could cut out a little white tape and stick it to one camera/remote pair.

[@dretwav]

@@RobTrek Thanks. I was afraid of that. I usually only use the remote when using a tripod but recently I have been doing a combination of milky way and hir-res panos so have needed to switch cameras. I suppose another thing to try would be use my phone for one camera and the remote for the other but I really don't like to fiddle with the phone. Since money solves the problem I should just stop being so cheap :-) .

[@OutRAjious]

what about going to super control panel and turning contrast down to minimum…..?

[@RobTrek]

If just shooting jpg, then it will help a little. I would also suggest applying auto-gradation. When shooting raw, these settings make no difference.