Quattro trigger info

Video shows how to adjust your quattro trigger, what to watch for, and how the pieces go back in the trigger block

[@mitchharsy152]

MIke, you are a lifesaver! After the gas spring replacement in my Hatsan 130S went off without a hitch using my homemade spring compressor, I was reinstalling the quattro trigger assembly and several pins fell out along with the half moon and spring. I had no idea how these pieces went back into the assembly and I didn't have a trigger diagram. Your video saved me. It still took me a while to get the trigger assembly back into the gun, trying to hold everything in place while doing it, but it was a success. Your video helped me understand how the quattro trigger assembly functions much better than any diagram could have. Thanks for posting these videos and sharing your experience and knowledge!

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Mitch Awesome I did my best to make it understandable. I rebuild the hatsan gas rams properly and they will not fail like the factory ones do . 50.00 shipped back and it's good to go

[@bdgnirps]

Thank you for the thorough explanation of the Quattro's moving parts. :-)

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Your welcome thanks Brian for taking the time to let me know it helped you out.

[@robmcbee6217]

Thanks Mike.. You are a great teacher. Have the Talon Magnum and changed to a Nitro piston upgrade. If I didn't have your trigger assembly video it would have been a nightmare.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Thanks Rob. Its nice to here that. / I get some jerks out there with the typical B S comets

[@Gun54_]

Hello there, Mike! You have a lot of informative videos on Hatsan break barrels, I am happy find your channel and learn new ins and outs about Hatsan air rifles. I am going to watch them all. I just watched this one and, I think, Hatsan QT is not that painful to assemble if you do it in the opposite direction and start from the main sears with the trigger bracket already fixed inside the receiver. You will avoid making an additional pin to hold the main sear during assembly and won't have to worry about trigger firing when installing the whole unit into the rifle receiver.

[@svilenp]

Ok thank you friend! I figured out what it is about and for now I will be limited by follow-up actions not to damage the rifle at the beginning of the season. Late autumn when time does not allow me to play more but at least now I know what it is about. Maybe it would be wise to turn to a friend of mine from the forum in BG who understands me more than I do not get rid of the rifle (though with poor factory quality). Thank you again!!!

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Your welcome Svilen. Take care Mike E

[@lifewiththerockykrag9536]

Your explanation is excellent.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Thank you, just over 6 yrs ago, I wish I had the camera & Mic I am using now when I did those

[@andrewhaines3239]

Thanks very much Mike I will have a look and get back to you on how I got on thanks again. Andy

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Your welcome ok let me know if you were able to get one thanks

[@silenthilltim]

Brilliant video! I think most people adjust their triggers without really knowing what's going on (Myself included, lol). Anyway, great job and I will be adjusting the quattros quite differently from now on.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

+Timothy Klok Thanks for letting me know. I had some one email me they were stuck and I told them I do a video rather then try to give info thru a email. thees hatsans are a pain to work on and air gunners need all the help they can get with thees rifles

[@bluecollarsportsman613]

Mike this is an amazing video

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Glad it helped! I no longer remove the grey matter or polish sears ,that was 7yrs ago. but you can trim the tiny sear spring so when its in between the two parts its length does not cause to hard of a tension because it was to long then adjust the small allen so it at least keeping some tension /I also use a longer screw the one towards the barrel I set the sear close to firing yet safe, once the gun is back together I then fine tune the adjustment by shooting it & then I can creep up on how easy I want it to fire / when I have it I see how much of the head of screw is sticking above the trigger then remove the screw & grind the excess off & round nose the tip smooth it takes a while but that way when the screw is bottom out & can not be turned anymore it will be where I want it and no one else can monkey with it later &cause accident/also be sure the gun cant fire when its cocked and safety is on if it does then the sears are adjusted to dangerously. remember what ever you do be safe & do not take your hand off the barrel until lit is totally shut

[@bluecollarsportsman613]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Thank you, I really appreciate the video and the reply.

[@HMWRKS]

Any chance you have plans to make a video on tuning the Hatsan 95 to include the piston, compression chamber, etc?

[@ahmedsalim8803]

Amazing, thank you!

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Ahmed Glad it was helpful thanks for positive input

[@randyjob5769]

Great video, i have a 135 and a 125, id like to get thier trigger lighter, not a hair trigger but about 3lbs, because stock trigger pull seems to be 6~7lbs

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Thanks Randy just a few tips. If the tiny spring for the upper seer tension is too stiff you can look for a hard clicking pen and cut one from that but always make sure your tension is enough to make the trigger blade spring back properly. on the bench you can adjust the trigger & re set it for testing but it will need to be set to fire before its installed back in to the gun. I set the two seers close to firing while on the bench but all final adjustments are when the guns back together, just be careful in that period and never let go of the barrel just in case, I use red synthetic lube from walmart the super teck high temp, high pressure , extreme duty etc, I like that better than the weapon shield and all the other lubes I tried super teck is the one the other red look alikes in the can are not the same

[@peterwieder5901]

Perfekt erklärt 👌

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Danke

[@douglasuhde799]

REALLY GREAT INFORMATION & VIDEOS MIKE! I JUST GOT MY REFURBISHED HATSAN MOD 135 CARNIVORE IN .22 CAL FROM HATSAN USA FOR $199.00 WITH FREE SHIPPING. WHAT A BEAUTIFUL STOCK EXCEPT I PUT A SMALL SCRATCH IN THE STOCK NEAR THE FRONT BARREL BOLT TRYING TO GET THE DAMN LITTLE RETAINING SCREW OFF THE LARGE BOLT. DAMN WHAT A JOB! I TOOK THE TRIGGER APART LIKE IN YOUR VIDEO AND GOT ALL THE GREY MATERIAL OFF ALL CONTACT POINTS AND POLISHED THEM OUT AND GREASED ALL PARTS. SMOOTH AS ICE ON ICE! I CAN'T BELIEVE WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT MADE! THANKS FOR THE INFO CANT FIND MUCH ON THE MOD 130 OR 135! NEXT VENTURE WILL BE A FULL DISSAMBLY TO REMOVE THE PISTON, POLISH THE INNER TUBE AND PUT IN A NEW SEAL FROM HATSAN WHICH I AM WAITING FOR NOW. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE SEAL FROM HATSAN OR SOME AFTERMARKET? THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GREAT VIDEOS.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Doug I have new custom parts for the hatsan it will get you smoother and get you the fps and maybe more / and I do the rear piston bearing rings. I cant sell the parts but since you been in & out of your gun you could send the receiver separate from the barrel , I can go thru do my thing and look over the rest of it /with the lube I use I don't polish the air chamber I leave it and burnish my lube into it and I ream out the entire end area and under the two spot welds from the scope rail. if its the QE with vortek gas ram they tend to fail and I rebuild them properly and fill them to the balanced level so its not over filled adding extra force when its not needed , far as seals go they all are sub standard & will work . hatsans red seal is to soft so if you try to get one ask for the original white ones but what I have is exactly what's needed here is is my email contact me to discuss further [e-mail]

[@back2backjack1]

Great vid, My Hatsan 25 pistol has the two adj. screws at the rear of the trigger. After playing with it I cant seem to change anything? It feels like one long single stage.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

thank you. Iam not up on the other hatsan models

[@andrewhaines3239]

Hi Mike I have tried everything to get the part I need from Europe and the US without any luck. Many thanks Andy

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Andrew what part are you looking for maybe I can get them but you will have to pay the shipping and take the chance of it arriving as it would be out of my hands I would ship the U S postal service

[@andrewhaines3239]

Thanks Mike the part i am after is the main sear spring. the part No: 110 on the parts list.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

I have one / email me at [e-mail] I found this place but I can't tell where they are at they have a complete trigger and other parts/ the site has a translating ability quatro.pushka.eu/

[@andrewhaines3239]

email sent

[@tripplebeards3427]

Thanks for the video!!! I have tried to adjust my trigger on my 10 year old walther talon 22 magnum three different times now and it still pulls like a stuck mule! I have polished,stoned, and removed a coil or two of my dozens of my rimfire and centerfires and have them braking from just under 2lbs to some of my target rifles to just under a pound. I have pulled my hair out on this Quattro trigger as I still pulls hard. I’ll be taking it apart and replacing the rear spring and replacing it with a longer front screw. I’d be tickled if I could get it in the 2lb range.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

the small coiled seer tension spring could be changed if you have one of those stiff ones that usally are to long and just by being there puts tension on the sear at the trigger you could find a stiff clicking pen and cut down that spring to replace it just be sure you adjust for enough tension that the trigger blade springs back that small spring gives the tension so when the rifle is cocked the sears drop into place and the trigger blade springs back when you let it go. the screw closet to the barrel needs to be longer round ball the tip and chuck it in a drill using 400 grit to smooth it/ when setting that screw you can do it on the bench looking at the sears spread away from each other as you screw it in further. you can get it close to firing but " leave some sear engagement so that once its back in the rifle you can then shoot and adjust it a little more each time till you get what you like , hair trigger is not what anyone wants but just back from it so its safe you may want to adjust the trigger travel first then the sear engagement screw you've installed those triggers suck the ideal is to lube them and set the sear closet to the trigger and middle sear close to firing but with a we bit of travel left then fine tune it when back in the gun

[@tripplebeards3427]

@@MrSteppingstone888 I without a doubt know the second stage screw is the main culprit. I have it bottomed out and it still has almost a 6lb pound pull if I had to guess. I’ll get out my trigger gage before I adjust it this time. It’s the worst trigger I own. I literally feel like I flinch when I “yank” it to get the gun to fire. Any chance I could just remove the second stage screw and replace place it with a longer one so I wouldnt have to completely tear the gun all the way down? Same with the spring? I realize I need to take it completely apart to polish the sear but I figured if I could skip some steps and spin out my front screw and just replace it in a few minutes time and get a lot better trigger pull it will save me a complete tear down. To be honest this rifle has sat in the corner since I’ve owned it with very little use because of that horrible trigger.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@tripplebeards3427 the only way to get a decent trigger is to add the longer screw and adjust the middle sear contact so it's close to firing // and depending on that small spring that adds the trigger tension / you may be able to trim it if its too long. then adjust the tiny allen so the spring does its job but not put any more tension then what is needed but be careful how you set the sear because if its to close to firing it will go off when you wiggle the trigger blade make it safe and not a hair trigger

[@tripplebeards3427]

@@MrSteppingstone888 thanks for all the help!!!!

[@tripplebeards3427]

I finally had a chance to play with it today. I took the easy way out and did not remove the whole trigger assembly and just the bottom end parts...trigger and spring. I used a pen spring and had to adjust the screw down quite a bit to get a descent trigger return as it was a lot lighter than the factory coil. I took a trip over to ace hardware and picked up a couple of eighty nine cent replacement bolts. They were m3x16 50 pitch. #410821-E. I rounded the ends off as you suggested. I installed them to the point the 2nd stage was completely eliminated...I hate 2 stage triggers...and also so there was a about a 1/16” or more of the Sears touching each other. I put the rifle back together and tested it. Without any further adjustment I broke like glass at 34oz. I turned the screw in three more times and tested again. I have it braking like glass at 20 oz with the last adjustment. I figured that’s good enough with out taking it out and putting it through a shooting session. I cocked the rifle and took the gun off safety and wigged the trigger back and forth three times in a row after the last adjustment to make sure it wasn’t set too light to cause a bump fire. I also put blue loc tite on the front two screws to keep them from rattling loose and coming out of adjustment. Thanks Mike!!!! I hated this air rifle until now.

[@andrewhaines3239]

Hi Mike I live in the uk and would like to ask where you get spare parts for you Quattro trigger ? As in need the main sheer spring as the one I have is broken. Here in the uk I have to by the whole trigger unit. Your videos on this are great. Many thanks Andy

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Andy here's the link to Umarex its their contact page/ located in the U S the contact Us is located at the bottom of their website home page. Do not ask them for hatsan parts you will get shut down ! If they have a phone number available for your location you can call them and ask for service department then ask the service department to email you the P D F file for the walther talon or walther falcon hunter whichever they have on hand because they only list one of those models. if you get the pdf file you can then get the part name and item number then call the service department back and tell them what you want and the info you have on the part / if you can't call them , then email them and ask for the pdf file and then email them back with that info off the file they sent you here is the link to the contact us page from Umarex www.umarexusa.com/pages/contact-us

[@linasdudenas5700]

super

[@MrSteppingstone888]

If you were adjusting your trigger when this happened. then unscrew one full turn the screw closet to the barrel at your trigger. Did you have the trigger apart I need to now what you were doing to it before you had the problem

[@MrSteppingstone888]

That is the big mystery part I have pulled that part out on some guns and machined a copy of where the pin goes thru it / so that round hub if you will the pin goes thru, that's the area where the sear would sit on if it was going to rest on it. other wise no one can figure out what on earth the half moon piece is trying to do

[@craziehawk]

You made mention in this video about replacing the main spring. I read in the comments that if asking for Hatsan parts you will get shot down. I have a newer 95 springer. Groups are not great but the trigger is horrible. I shall be following your tutorial to a tee. My question is where does one aquire a main spring? Do you recommend any seal's? I want this thing to become it's full potential! Thanks for your vids

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi I dont polish the seers anymore instead I just adjust the settings & change the tiny seer spring or mod it if its not the strong one or if its to long. I may or may not change the screw closet to the barrel I think hatsan has made them a little longer now? Aftermarket springs bought on ebay from this seller I dont use his set up just the main spring.out of his kit, he offers a spring for several hatsan models including the 95 (the link below) seals all of them wear down to much and level off below factiory specks heres a video I did on a turkish toma hawk I made a o ring piston seal so there our two links below. Ebay spring from POLAND __ www.ebay.com/itm/TUNING-HATSAN-55-105-TWO-SPRINGS-FAC-380M-S-AIR-RIFLES-Free-shipping/173319449971?hash=item285aa4ed73:g:MLYA my video link on turkish tomahawk kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6ObpY2JoZuIh6s

[@MrSteppingstone888]

here is his other spring with out all the other crap for less money / same spring for several models www.ebay.com/itm/173731823317?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI173731823317.N36.S1.typeWATCH_ITEM_ENDING_SOON.R1.TR2

[@Slavaplisko]

the hatsun air tact the retaining screw for getting in to remove the barrle is solid how can i remove it with out stripping it the rifle is new

[@MrSteppingstone888]

If you are talking about the small set screw next to the bigger barrel block pivot bolt you need to get the closest fitting Phillips head screw driver and a hammer get the driver in good then use a hammer on its side and smack the driver Handel down hard a few times you want to shock the bolt then when you unscrew the tiny screw press down on it with a lot of force then try to unscrew it for the bigger barrel pivot bolt break the barrel open first not cocked just opened get you thickest flat head driver that fits the best and a adjustable crescent wrench to help turn the flat part of the drivers blade while pushing down hard ton the bolt so the driver does not rise up out of the slot I used to use a small steel chisel and would grind it down to fit the slot and a small wood block That I drilled a hole in to fit over the chisel to help push it down while turning the chisel with the adjustable crescent wrench

[@Slavaplisko]

@@MrSteppingstone888 its the bigger bolt and next to small screw ill try a impact screw driver tomorrow

[@mst3kpimp]

WARNING when dialing the trigger sears you should put it in safety mode I thought I had it set for a safe sear engagement. But when I put in safety mode I could still get the sears to disengage as the trigger has some wobble and even with safety on it will let your sears drift. I ended up making a thicker pin and spacer shim to alleviate wobble but I wasnt out of the woods after reassembling pointed away with safety on and was able to fire so the gun will behave differently when assembled under load as mine required additional backing off to finally make safe but trigger shimming is a must to get a safe trigger that feels good.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Yes the trigger wobble can set the trigger off if the sears are set to close to firing absolutely !

[@Leadheadsam]

Thanks a million for these gold info 👍🙏 where I can buy Quattro trigger for mod 125 or trigger blade

[@MrSteppingstone888]

the black one I have a few I could sell one go to my channel click on the > symbol after the (Sharing my passion for air guns, work done ,mods, re barreling, lathe work etc. > that wil open up my contact info / email

[@Leadheadsam]

@@MrSteppingstone888 perfect 👍

[@gastonmamy7107]

Hello! Can you help me tune up the quattro trigger? I want a lighter pull and with a little more "travel" of it is that word...how i have to adjust the 3 screws for that setting?

[@MrSteppingstone888]

the screw closet to the barrel is the 2nd stage the screw, the screw closet to the butt pad is the travel screw ,then you have a very tiny screw that sets tension on the sear that the trigger pushes down on. when you tighten the screw in further the screw closet to the barrel you are spreading the sear apart ! to much and it wont cock or it will miss fire when you close the barrel so you start with initially 1/4 turn in, I would set the other screw next to it, the screw for trigger travel almost all the way in but leave a little out then start on the screw closet to the barrel by turning it in more only 1/4 turn at a time then test shoot a pellet and as you do, you can get a feel on how close it is to being fired when it gets closer then adjust it in smaller increment say 1/8 of a turn in further you don't want a hair trigger. when you are happy with the screw adjustment closet to the barrel go back and set the trigger travel the way you like it in takes away the travel out add more travel but be careful you may have to re adjust the screw closet to the barrel afterwards now the tiny screw behind the trigger blade that's on that small square block" behind the trigger blade. the tiny allen you can unscrew reliving tension on the sear it is not spreading the sear it is removing or adding spring tension on the sear it also adds spring tension to the trigger blade so when the gun is cocked the sear will drop down you always need the trigger blade to be able to spring back when you let it go but you don't need excess spring tension on the trigger blade or it will make the pull to hard just enough that it springs back so most likely the small spring in that part that the tiny allen adjust on that square block is to long and will automatically create its own tension just by being in there so I would back the tiny screw out a good bit To get a much better set up , the trigger needs to be out of the gun what I shared with you is basic set up just be careful and never take you hand off the barrel until it is closed and be pointed in a safe direction

[@garyleung1661]

its a very good video Mike, however , after i tried re assemble the rigger assy, i broke the trigger blade unexpectedly, is it possible for you to acquire one for me? Of course all at my cost, thanks!

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Gary. Hatsan usa wont sell single trigger parts you would need to buy the whole trigger unit, I think they want 35.00 go to hatsan USA click the air guns then click on the contact us tab then when it opens click on the customer service form fill it out they may take a week to get back to you or two days

[@garyleung1661]

@@MrSteppingstone888my friend, i've tried that months ago but until now........many weeks already, lol! actually the trigger blade was broke into two pieces after the third shot , unbox a moment earlier. I was so shocked because overall the rifle look so strong , many heavy metal parts but just this tinny little piece they mold it out with this fragile mix metal or alloy something, i successfully put them back into one piece with JB cold wielding and shoot until i try to imitate what you do. so even if i get another ass'y from hatsan, prosibly will come along with the same material and thus repeat the same night mare again , i think you know what I mean. but the one you showed in this video look different, guess that is not belong to the model "speedfire" then i think may be this one will be much more reliable.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@garyleung1661 email me some picture of the trigger unit & trigger blade when you can/ hatsan has had the same issue with other guns including the half moon piece breaking/ [e-mail]

[@zakmohti]

Hi Mike, thank you for wonderful videos. I have never seen anyone so generous with their information and thorough. You go over every possible scenario and clearly show the remedies. Fantastic work. I followed the Quattro tune up, jeweled the sears, and put back but gun won't cock. Backed up closest screw to the barrel all way up, adjusted small sear screw (closest to butt stock) and varied combinations and couldn't get it to cock. Gun only had about 300 shots but had it a while so out of warranty so shame to throw away good money when I see how well they can be tuned following your directions. Was going to get a new seal but won't help if doesn't cock :) Any thoughts tips you can share? I'd have brought in to you too fix but shipping is not worth it at this stage so trying to salvage it. It's 125, .25 cal

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Zak did you make the small sear pin for the trigger so you can re install it? and did you set it ready to fire before installing it? sometimes when the trigger is set to fire people accidently fire it when handling it. after it is installed then you must fire the trigger before trying to cock it you should be able tp set the sears while the trigger is out on the bench. adjust the screw closet to the barrel so the sear still has contact with minimal travel left before firing let me know how you make out. question)) did you remove the scope stop on the scope rail and re install it in the wrong set of holes it needs to be towards the thumb safety

[@zakmohti]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Thanks for your quick reply. I did it all as listed, small pin, was cocked before installing, then fired before put stock on, used small pin as you showed and replaced with regular pin before stock is on. I know the Trigger is set right because while installed without the stock I can manually cock and fire repeatedly perfectly. But once I try to cock using barrel it is not setting. As for scope mounts, I never removed them but if there are instructions on tuning these, please let me know and I will do it. Thanks again. Watched all your videos like three times and am telling any those who complained that it's too long to go find some other Micky mouse video. I reload and I enjoy thorough precision work, this is a joy for us and not a chore.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@zakmohti If its a vortex gas ram I bet your ram is upside down the rams have a slot for the sear to drop in. that must face the trigger sear on the opposite side there is no slot so the sear wont catch

[@zakmohti]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Mike do you think the RAM could flip by itself? Just seems unlikely. It worked and was cocking all before that and I never flipped it. I actually spent this afternoon carefully detailing the trigger again. It's now silky smooth and cocks and fires perfectly but only manually. For some reason won't cock. When I break the barrel shouldn't I see the large seer loving? It's not budging at all. I can try to take a video if that would help diagnosing it. Appreciate you replying, I realize it's Sunday

[@zakmohti]

@@MrSteppingstone888 I took a video of it maybe that will make more sense. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3PVfGl_gr5pm68 Am still interested in exploring the scope stop screws but not sure what am I supposed to do with these as also saw Hatsan mentioned them on their site

[@HighBry]

⚠️Hey brother I got a question I’m not even sure how to ask. I think it’s the half moon (the part directly infront of the trigger). I don’t know how to get the spring back to it after taking it apart. Plz help! It would help me soo much!!⚠️

[@sk2283]

Hi Mike, I have a HATSAN MOD60s which is playing me up - so I've been watching your videos for help, Thank you !! I have not fully removed the trigger yet but have separated the stock & barrel and adjusted the trigger over & over but the gun will not cock, the shears don't engage - it will if I break the barrel and fully pull it back & manually flick the shear into position but no matter what I seem to do it won't cock normally. I have had the rifle a few years but it is not used very much only for occasional pest control at sub 50ft ranges which it does the job well. do you have any tips on what I can look for to sort it out ? many thanks from the UK - our local gun shops say the rifle is not worth spending money on repairing !

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi If I understand you correctly you did not pull the trigger just attempted to adjust it but she wont engage there is a couple things #1 sear engagement #2 sear tension If the sear engagement is not catching enough or set so its to close to ready to fire that will cause it not to cock ! #2 sear tension the tiny screw on the small square block at upper corner of trigger block adjust sear tension, you need some spring tension to allow the upper sear to spring out of the way or the middle sear wont clear to get under it into position. did you cut to shorten that tiny spring or unscrew the screw. / you dont need a lot of tension just enough so the trigger springs back nice when you let it go/ let me know how you made out

[@sk2283]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Thanks very much for your reply - I pulled the trigger apart and checked the main (larger) sear was seated in correctly, checked the trigger sears catch and release properly, it all seems perfect when out of the barrel but when installed the main sear hook end does not hook into the spring mechanism (sorry don't know the correct name for it) - it is as if there should be a spring or something to help it engage when you fold the barrel and compress the spring - with the trigger out but assembled it cocks and releases it's driving me nuts! ... I have looked on some parts websites and some show another crooked spring others don't - mine doesn't have any other springs. - the rifle was working great until I lent it to my father (in his 70's) and now it doesnt 🤷‍♂ I went and bought a BSA lightening se yesterday to use out of frustration but would really like to get it working if I can - here in the UK it's not easy to find an airgun smith

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@sk2283 OK so it works fine until its in the gun/ be sure the trigger was set to fire when re installing then after everything is installed fire the trigger off was the spring guide and spring original and is the spring still good and not broken? somethings keeping the piston from coming back all the way! was the guide changed or something's added like a friction washer?

[@sk2283]

@@MrSteppingstone888 hi, thanks again for the reply, I bought the rifle new 5 years ago or so, it's not had a lot of use, no changes at all from the day I bought it, nothing added or taken away. The spring looks perfect, the piston seems to come back it's just the hooked pice doesn't fall into place and grab the mechanism - it's confusing me, I wonder if I should take out the spring as well ? I just cannot see what is stopping it from engaging - I'm pretty good mechanically and an electrician by trade, done a lot with bikes & boats, I am working through it but honestly it is strange ?!

[@sk2283]

@@MrSteppingstone888 I wonder if somehow something has fallen into the spring and is stopping it from coming all the way back ? or engaging the hook? If I take the spring section apart does it go back together easily? thanks Simon

[@shivanansookdeo9476]

Mike I need to talk to u about my hatsan 125 asap it wont cork is the trigger pice

[@MrSteppingstone888]

here is my email I previously asked you what did you do to it before this happened I never get a a answer ( were you adjusting it were you having it apart or did it just stop working?? [e-mail]

[@svilenp]

Allen Wrench 1.5 mm for socket head set screws?

[@MrSteppingstone888]

I have no ideal I would go get a 3mm X .5 pitch allen screw and see what size allen fits it chances are they will be the same as your hatsan screw

[@MrSteppingstone888]

tell the hardware store what size allen screw you have 3 mmX .5 pitch and ask them if you bought several allen wrenches that it could be for that screw if you can return the ones that doesn't fit including the one that fits their 3mm X .5 pitch allen screw

[@tubequin]

Hi Mike, Thank your for your detailed videos on this trigger but it looks like something is wrong? Every time you pull the trigger in this video, the main sear (tear-drop shape with a notch that hooks the spring cylinder) doesn't move. Isn't it supposed to rotate after pulling the trigger so it releases the spring cylinder and is ready to receive the cylinder again on the next cock? If what you have is functioning normally, why doesn't the sear need to rotate? If what you have is not functioning normally, what would cause that main sear to not rotate after pulling the trigger? Thanks for your advice!

[@MrSteppingstone888]

If your referring to the sear that catches the piston and holds it before firing? nothing rotates where the trigger is installed that sear drops down just enough to release the piston then when the piston comes back when cocked it gets caught again by the sear and everyone else gets re set also

[@tubequin]

​@@MrSteppingstone888 Yeah, that's the sear I'm talking about. In your video (for example at 0:54), it doesn't look like it is rotating at all so it wouldn't release the piston when you pull the trigger. Here is a rudimentary animation of the quattro trigger. At 45 seconds, you can see how the main sear rotates when the trigger is pulled. That is what I'm talking about. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z57Wfqeia9CUjqs I ask all this because I have a Walther Talon spring pellet rifle that can't cock. It feels like the piston/spring cylinder hits the main sear which stuck in the closed/latched position even thought the trigger is pulled so I can't quite get the spring to lock on the sear. I feel like your trigger setup is not allowing the sear to rotate properly because if it was, the pointy end of the main sear that interfaces with the middle sear would poke out of the end of the assembly after pulling the trigger. When I take it apart I can't see anything wrong. When I put it back together I get about 10 shots before the same thing happens. Any insight is appreciated.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@tubequin I see what you are saying, I think what your seeing in my video is simply because the trigger block is not open enough so the large sear stops before it comes out of the block / once installed it works as it should. now your problem could be two things. #1 if your trigger screw closet to the barrel side is in to far it will stop it from cocking and preventing the piston catch to be caught by the large sear. #2 if the tiny allen screw on the small square block next to the trigger blade is not creating enough tension by being screwed in enough the upper sear wont be able to engage into the middle sear because there's not enough tension to let it spring into position. #3. be sure some one did not install a spring guide and top hat that was to long causing the piston not to reach its full travel back to the large sear, I would unscrew that trigger screw a full turn back out then see if it works properly/ see how much the trigger blade springs back after you pull it back and let go it has to have some spring back

[@tubequin]

@@MrSteppingstone888 Ok, I'll look at those adjustments more. Could you say a bit more about the spring guide and top hat? I know nothing about the history of this rifle; it was given to me because it wouldn't cock. When I look at the spring, it seems to be off center at the butt/trigger end. I have wondered if the piston (during the cocking action as it is "swallowing" the compressed spring) catches on the coils because they are so far off center thus stopping the piston from getting to the main sear. Have you heard of a problem like that? If so, how would one fix it?

[@MrSteppingstone888]

@@tubequin Only way a spring can get into the sear slot enough to keep the trigger sear to engage with it would be if the spring has broken and by some one in a million chance the end poked thru into the piston sear slot area. far as a spring guide set up, if some one installed a spring to long it will keep the piston from coming back or if some one made a spring guide and top hat to long it also could stop the piston from coming back far enough to engage with the trigger sear. those guns do have spring guide that is not a good fit to the spring I make custom spring guides and top hats with upgraded vortek springs if you have done the other adjustments and the gun still wont cock you will need to remove the spring, as something is preventng the piston from reaching the trigger sear

[@ryanmurphy__7314]

I disassembled my Hatsan 125 vortex for a piston seal upgrade and I keep trying to put the trigger together and I followed your video and it is assembled properly but the pointy part goes up to release and it can't reset. When I full assemble the gun and cock it the piston doesn't catch and sometimes the trigger can't move even when the safety is off. I have no clue what to do can you please help me.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

I charge 60.00 to tune it fully and return it , it includes seer work removing the grey matter & polishing. Or no seer work or polishing just adjustment and better set up for 45.00 shipped back

[@ryanmurphy__7314]

Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** yeah I'll do the 60.00 tuning on the 125 that isn't going back together properly, and if I like it enough I will tune my other Hatsan 125 but for now I will do one tuning

[@ryanmurphy__7314]

Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** where do I need to mail it and do you accept paypal

[@MrSteppingstone888]

here is my email yes I do pay pal, [e-mail]

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Did you get my email address? send me a email I wil take it from there [e-mail] no caps no spaces etc

[@rebekaantolic3315]

i dissasebled the hatsan 125th for spring change, after assembly the gun wont lach got any idea what is the problem i just cant figure it out :(

[@MrSteppingstone888]

If you did not play with the trigger _/ who's spring did you use? and what did you do for the spring guide & top hat. your spring or what you added to the spring is too long, you may need to cut a coil & heat the spring to fold the coil flat when done, or remove a spacer if you added spacers

[@rebekaantolic3315]

Mike Ellingsworth** Mr Stepping Stone*** I used original hatsan 125 spring in my country they sell detuned with lighter spring but you get the original with it, plastic spring guide has 1 washer i did not add any. I think there is some catch with the last trigger sear the one that latches on the piston, if i manualy try to push on it to engage triger it is very hard to do a lot of force must be used. btw. thanks for reply

[@rebekaantolic3315]

tomorow i will change spring with smaller one if it works then you are right and the spring is too long. hope it works out

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi. the trigger must be set to fire before it can be re installed . did you make the small seer pin so you can do that?

[@rebekaantolic3315]

i did not made the pin but triger was on fire at least i think so, if something didn't moved, it is possible that was the problem too thanks for the info i will try again tomorow with small pin and other spring. and see how it goes

[@svilenp]

Hello Mr. Ellingsworth Yes, as I suppose, the tool is hex 1.5 (or www.tme.eu/bg/details/b1.5_bn1169/imbusni-klyuchove-i-torx-klyuchove/bossard/1380605/ ) Yesterday, I tried to set the trigger, I pulled the screw behind the trigger a couple of times a quarter, and I took samples, taking care not to shoot the rifle alone with a slight touch on the trigger or at a stroke at all. I built almost 3 mm + from the original screw position and ... difference is not ?! I stopped to unwind because I was afraid the screw would unfold to the end and fall into the grass ... I do not know how long it is, but it's hardly a lot?! As you say in America: "Quattro trigger...my a**" ...

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Svilen well your further now then you were when first started, I know it can be a pain but its part of learning. you can now buy a 3mm x .5 pitch X 14mm long "cap head screw" that will be longer than needed but the allen size will be bigger and it will have a head on it / that's what I use but I grind mine down and round ball the tip with a drill and fine sandpaper making it smooth as glass so that means you can now remove the headless allen screw since you have the allen for it and install the other type a cap head screw. this is the screw closest to the barrel . when you install the new cap head screw make a mark on the threads by using the original allen next to it so you know how far to screw it in , then test from there as always holding on to the barrel until closed cap head screw looks like this one www.accu.co.uk/en/cap-head-screws/152340-SSCF-M5-14-A4-BL?google_shopping=1&c=2&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=209497832366&kword=&match=&plid=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI08qDxruz2wIVB4lpCh0LWgdSEAQYBCABEgImAPD_BwE

[@jessicasykes3831]

Any Chance of a email to contact you?

[@svilenp]

Hello Mr Ellingsworth I need help on setting up the Quattro Trigger of Hatsan 125 TH Vortex .22 (The rifle is from 2014 model). I want to reduce the effort when I press the trigger because there are two things at the moment: 1. In the second degree I have to press the trigger to move the rifle; 2. In anticipation of the shot, I increase the pressure on the trigger, and when the rifle breaks, I just start to jerk and so I can also move the rifle a bit .... So I want to reduce the second degree effort within the limit ?! I watched the few videos available in KZbin, but for me things do not look like the video clips ?! At me the three "screws" are so small that (I'm a bit blind) I see them almost just like openings ... I suppose they are hexagons with size maybe 1.5 or something .... I apply pictures and hope someone help the size the key: drive.google.com/file/d/1r5cDTA8653uHTggwqyhuMr5VvcZTPr51/view?usp=drivesdk

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Hi Svilen those are what we call Allen screws they are headless screws they are 3mm X.5 pitch screw. so you need a allen wrench to fit in a headless 3mm X .5 pitch screw, " look in your local hardware store 1st you need to buy something that you can use so you can see what you are working . such as a clamp on workshop magnifying lamp and or inexpensive strong reading glasses.. adjusting a trigger must be taking seriously not something to be fumbling around with and not remembering how many 1/2 turns the screw was adjusted /// Also adjust the screw 1/4 turn at a time between testing the shot and do not set the trigger so it is a hair trigger, to much adjustment the gun will not cock or possibly miss fire so do not take your hand off the barrel until it is shut and make sure your in a safe area incase that gun goes off on its own www.ebay.com/itm/Magnifying-Glass-Clamp-on-Table-Desk-Lamp-LED-Light-Magnifier-Jewelry-Tool-Coin/112388693450?epid=930621026&hash=item1a2ae35dca:g:B-UAAOSwt0FZBACK

[@RickDelmonico]

Adjustment at at 4 and 20 minutes.

[@MrSteppingstone888]

Some guys cant get the stock off even that can be a hassle in fact putting the stock back can be just as bad LOL so you have to show them other wise they may not get to there trigger hows the hatsan underleaver doing

[@RickDelmonico]

@@MrSteppingstone888 good, no scope, started at ten yards moving to 30 now, is as accurate as I am or more.

[@shivanansookdeo9476]

Why my hatsan not corking

[@MrSteppingstone888]

were you messing with it? I need some info here, I am not a mind reader

[@shivanansookdeo9476]

@@MrSteppingstone888 the gun want cork and the trigger is very hard to go off