R.F. Receiver 'Removal'. 1999 Disco 2. 'Jugs'

Time I tackled this!

[@wardysworx]

Everyone I've removed was bolted in and i had to get a little spanner in there. The headliner will need to come out to fix the nets as they are fixed with little nuts from the rear. Good work

[@SiCrewe]

Recently re-did my headliner and replaced those cargo nets at the same time and I'm not entirely sure how useful they are. Basically, anything heavier than a pair of sunglasses will cause the nets to sag so they're almost horizontal, which means stuff falls out every time you accelerate. I guess that's not really a big deal, though, cos you don't really want anything heavy suspended from the flimsy headliner AND you don't really want anything up there which might fall out and injure somebody. I guess they make for a handy place to store sunglasses and, perhaps, USB cables etc.

[@sleepycatpictures1176]

This one has those silly push in pins They are probably French as well!

[@SiCrewe]

It's always "nice" when you open up a faulty electronic doohicky and find that it's all furry and corroded inside... cos at least you can be reassured that it probably IS knackered. First thing is, the Central Locking is powered by 2 fuses (FL3/50a anf F13/10a) from the under-bonnet fusebox. If the CL works when you push the interior button next to the clock the fuses are probably okay but it's probably wise to check them anyway. The receiver has 2 wires (purple/grey & black/brown) that connect to the BCU and (allegedly) 2 Earths (black). Wrap a paper clip (a bare wire one) around the metal tip of a multimeter probe and you should be able to use it to probe the receiver's connector. First, put the meter in continuity mode and touch the probe with with paperclip attached to the other probe to check it works. Some paperclips are coated, these days, so they're insulated. With a working paperclip-probe, wedge one probe into the bodywork somewhere handy and then poke the paperclip-probe into the connector and (with the meter in continuity mode) you should have continuity to Earth through the black wire(s). Once you've verified the pin that's Earth you can switch your meter to Volts mode, leave one probe wedged in the bodywork, and probe the other pins of the connector to establish that one of them IS supplying 12v to the receiver (either the purple/grey wire or the back/brown wire). By a process of elimination, you should now also know that the remaining pin is the trigger FROM the receiver, which operates the CL. This next part is a bit sketchy, but stay with me... The dashboard switch has an Earth which is linked directly to the "input" side of the switch and then, when you push the switch to lock/unlock the CL it makes a circuit with a pink/red wire or a pink/yellow wire. That tells me that the CL already has it's 12v feed and the switch completes the circuit via Earth. Looking at the door switches, the same thing is true. Soooo... It's likely the receiver operates in the same way. If (and I stress IF) that's correct, you should be able to get the central locking to activate/deactivate by using another paperclip to bridge between the Earth pin and the trigger pin on the connector for the receiver. To be clear, this is NOT the pin that has 12v on it. It's the other one. If you bridge between the Earth pin and trigger pin on the connector, I think the CL should activate/deactivate. If it does, you know the receiver is toast. If you can't figure out which pin(s) of the connector are Earth, or which one provides a 12v feed to the receiver, then you probably have a wiring fault somewhere. Best of luck with that. In other news, I learned something new about my D2 today. I replaced the rear air-springs and I couldn't get them to pressurise afterwards. There was much cursing and gnashing of teeth. Turns out, the compressor that fills the air springs ONLY works when the doors are closed. Start engine - nothing happens. Wait several minutes - nothing happens. Close driver door and the springs immediately inflate. So, erm, yeah. If you're ever monkeying around with the air springs, make sure the doors are all closed.

[@sleepycatpictures1176]

Cheers Si, that is very comprehensive thank you. Airsprings, yes I did know about the doors. It's caught me out before too!

[@deanshortland7194]

I always thought these were at the front of the headliner. At least it wasn't covered in rust from years worth of sunroof leaks

[@sleepycatpictures1176]

I expected it would be but turned out normal. The unit is not even sealed.

[@bobuilt10]

I noticed there are a couple of capacitors on the board, could it be they are breaking down. I know failing capacitors is an issue in older consumer electronics. I would expect it to be the same in automotive. Inside the roof is not a good place for them, red hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. (especially up in't hills)

[@sleepycatpictures1176]

Yes, probably. Thing is, it's working properly now!

[@michaelhutin5451]

That's why I hate electronics. Is it working or not? Only a computer/electrical expert can test it. If a mechanical lock breaks, at least you can see the it.

[@sleepycatpictures1176]

I quite agree !