R53 MINI Cooper S engine swap - New Short Block - Part 2 (Valve job & assemble engine)

[@_alltheseprettylights_]

I appreciate you man! I've been daily driving my r53 since 2018. It wouldn't be my daily without your videos!!

[@nelsonpineda4307]

im just scratching my head here. who the hell voted 2 thumbs down on this magnificent vid? keep up the good work. you are doing a great service to humanity.

[@alexanderoneill2612]

Great video, my neighbor went through deep water, hyrdolock and a rod went through the block. He offered me the car for peanuts . You make an engine swap look possible. As you say "you might want to mark the wires". Thanks for the great clean video

[@therealpeterburke]

excellent videos. I am in a similar situation as Sasha after buying a lightly modded 2005 r53 three weeks ago (and happen to be German as well, but live in the US). I bought it as a fun/project car. Even though I don't have to do anything to the motor right now, I already lost all my apprehension of tearing into the car for anything it may need by just watching these videos. I know I need to eventually replace crank seals, maybe clutch, install an LSD, replace ball joints, install a coilover suspension, replace rear roll bar (it's clunking madly even though everything is tight). I've found videos for almost everything that may come up. Very useful, and highly appreciated. Now I need to go buy more tools :-)

[@ModMINI]

Haha. I hope I don't make it look TOO easy. :-) Rear end clunk may be the worn stock struts, sway bar bushings, or the sway bar end links. Probably struts.

[@therealpeterburke]

***** car runs on Koni FSDs and Alta springs (I bad combo, as they FSDs are not supposed to be used on lowered car). 44k on the combo, but no leaks. bar bushings look good, end links were tight when I had it on jacks. Will check one more time before checking bank account. I am also suspecting the FSDs. And no worries, this may look easy in your videos, but I'd be taking 10x the time, labeling everything, etc. I have worked on motorcycles and have some idea of how much harder it would be to dig into the Mini, mostly due to size and tighter packagin. The videos really help to "break the ice" and get beyond the "I can't do that in my garage" thinking. Given I have driven a Toyota Tundra Crewmax for years, the Mini is closer to a motorcycle than the truck :-)

[@ModMINI]

***** Ok, either the FSDs have gone bad or it's bushings.

[@deftonesgothrckr]

#2video was awesome , very instructional, one of the best quality rebuild videos I've seen I feel like I am right there doing the rebuild, I just recently bought one of the r53's off my boss for $1000, and was told there was a hole in the piston, I have no way of knowing this for sure, so I have to take his word for it.anyways, very fascinated by these cars and cant wait to get mine running. wish i could just send my motor to you!... well if that is possible let me know, and also could you put a list of tools needed and where to buy them in description , I'd be eternally grateful. love the videos man KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!

[@ModMINI]

Thanks for the support. I would be happy to work on your motor if there is an economical way for it (or the car) to be delivered to my location. (Seattle area.) You can verify by doing a leak down compression test. There are several good 'howto' KZbin videos. Basically you put about 20PSI air line onto a line and fitting that screws into each spark plug hole, then rotate the engine until valves are closed on that cylinder. Then you listen for where the air is coming out. If it's coming out of the exhaust or intake manifold, you either have a bad exhaust/intake valve or one of the valve is open, if it's coming out of the crankcase, you have a hole in the piston or poor piston ring seals, if it's coming out of the coolant reservoir, you have a compromised water jacket, etc. (These are some possibilities...) I'll post a list of the special tools in the video description by tomorrow morning.

[@deftonesgothrckr]

awesome thank you so much!

[@sailr8833]

At 05:18 and 30:33 you say you are going to put the engine at TDC. When the marks and links line up, that doesn't really mean the engine is at TDC, it's more of a 'service position' if you like. Great video none the less though!👍

[@ModMINI]

Yeah my mistake. It's actually at middle dead center (all pistons are in a line, crank is 90 degrees off TDC.

[@mathewboyer5141]

oil on threads of head bolts but also over and under head bolt washers too. just throwing out some helpful advice. is the torque different on these when using ARP head studs?

[@toyotoe3732]

Is my understanding correct that it is the job of valve stem seals is to prevent engine oil in cylinder head from leaking down into cylinders. Was owner of this car getting smoke out of his exhaust on start up. Is this why you decided to replace valve stem seals? Excellent video as usual. Thank you.

[@ModMINI]

Your understanding is correct but no, it wasn't smoking - this work was done at request of the owner as an early maintenance item since the head was off the car anyway.

[@brians9141]

So the previous owner stripped the guide and rail bolt plug. The ones that go in the holes at 30:10 that cover those 2 bolts. Can I get the name of those? Or maybe a link where to buy them?

[@ModMINI]

+Brian Esparza www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xmini+cooper+screw+plug.TRS0&_nkw=mini+cooper+screw+plug&_sacat=0

[@isitgoodtodo2834]

what is that brown part on the valve cover? 32:22 i never understand what it is? is it sludge?

[@ModMINI]

Epoxy sealant/adhesive from the factory.

[@markwhitesr.466]

I have a question for you. I just picked up a 2002 Cooper "s" and it seems to have the chain noise that I keep reading about. I took the tensioner out and as I did, it had some tension on it... But when I had it in my hand and started to push the plunger, it seemed to have some gritty feeling in it, as I did this for a few more times, it got stuck in. Is this an indication that its bad?

[@MrMansge]

It has to feel smooth. If not, replace it. Make sure that the engine timing is ok. I'd say, replace since its cheap and easy to do. If that was the problem, what it is usually, then you saved a lot of money and time :)

[@j.amethyst5685]

does the threaded posts that purge from the cylinder head, that the intake manifold bolt on to, can they be taken out and swapped over to a new motor

[@ModMINI]

Sure

[@rogertalley7944]

Are those steel toed Osha Approved Crocs? just kidding great video, I'm building my daughters 03 mini none sc.

[@warwickdean]

I thought that the chain and sprocket timing marks only line up on assembly? So if I rotate the crankshaft around soo many times they should align up?

[@ModMINI]

Eventually they will, but the one time I tried, I gave up after like 40 rotations.

[@warwickdean]

Mod MINI oh wow well atleast you had a good workout bud lol B-) il give it a few goes and if not il just get them roughly right and make do

[@ModMINI]

Yeah just get them close enough that you can count teeth without making mistake.

[@warwickdean]

Mod MINI I'm hoping that I won't have to count any teeth aslong as the crank sprocket markings are at four o clock with the cam tool locked in, I'm guessing it would then be safe just to rebuild with the markings aligned?

[@ModMINI]

If you're rebuilding, just take the chain off and realign it so the teeth match up. Too dangerous to hope the crank won't move.

[@_alltheseprettylights_]

"This one is getting a new oil pan because the drain plug threads were all screwed up" no puns intended. Lolol

[@luisalmaguer2757]

Quick question would you be so kind as to indicate what seals you change that leak oil when doing the supercharger maintance and great video by the way thank you for the education

[@ModMINI]

Hello - not sure if I understand the question. If you are just performing supercharger maintenance, the only seal that needs replacing is the water pump inlet O-ring. You might also want to replace the supercharger to intake duct gasket, but usually not necessary. Thanks for watching!

[@luisalmaguer2757]

Oh OK thank you very much for u r reply I was reading on a form to replace oil o rings that leak that's what I was not seeing what they were talking about. But thanks for the feedback my project is the change of the rack it's squeaky when turning right so I just want to replace it

[@ModMINI]

luis almaguer You might mean the crankshaft position sensor O-ring. This inexpensive part leaks always, and is really easy to replace if you have the front of the car removed or in front end service mode.

[@luisalmaguer2757]

This is what I was referring 2 - SC Input gasket from throttle body duct (green rubber) 11610020836 - $18.02 - Throttle body o-ring (orange rubber) 13547509045 - $13.04 - Water pump to block O-ring (black rubber)

[@ModMINI]

luis almaguer Those are the ones.

[@georgeswann2077]

Hi I'm not a computer savy guy but I wanted to involve myself in auto mechanics, so I watch most of the videos on youtube.I am 57yrs and I am attempting to replace the head gasket on my 2002 Mini Cooper S. Since the head is out I would like to cleanup the valves but need some tips. 1. Product to best aid in breaking up carbon and what is needed to cleanup before attaching head to engine. Thanks for your assistance.

[@georgeswann2077]

Buddy you are the reason I am attempting this. Your instructions are clear and very helpful. I will take some photos tomorrow and some after the job whith a new paint job.

[@canlam5697]

The way he described his work is like he eats and sleeps - Mini Cooper. It can take the whole thing off with his eyes closed.

[@Rare92Mustang]

Did it hydrolock and it caused the connecting rod to bend and break the block?

[@ModMINI]

Not hydro lock. My final conclusion is valve head came off and bounced around in there, due to previous incident where timing chain skipped a tooth, causing valves to slightly touch piston heads, causing a weakening of the valve stem. Ooops - wrong video - I never figured out what happened here. We suspect poor maintenance by the previous owner or a manufacturing defect.

[@krazed0451]

Those valve lapping tools are a PITA, a piece of dowel with a big blob of blu-tac does a better job ;-)

[@jeffmullinix7916]

Not too bad ! Right . There is a big hole at the bottom of the cylinder ! LOL It's a joke OK . Good Job Thumbs up

[@sthefan0100]

Hi, I have a questions from where do you got the short block, I'm in need of one right now. Thank you for taking your time to read this.

[@ModMINI]

The owner got it from BMW/MINI.

[@sthefan0100]

He got ted from the dealer right, and how did he order from the dealer.

[@ModMINI]

sthefan teran I guess he went to the dealer and said "I need a small block." (They will sell you parts even if you install them yourself.)

[@sthefan0100]

OK I just wanted to know because I went to the dealer ask for a short block and it said that it comes with just the crankshaft. And I would like know so that I can order the right part and they don't try sell other stuffs. Thanks for taking your time.

[@ModMINI]

sthefan teran That is correct. That is what a short block is - a block and crankshaft. You're supposed to move the other parts from your existing engine.

[@MegaMilkman42]

for this type of repair will this increase the cars life? like if i hand a mini that had 150k miles and i did this will my mini will its life prolong?

[@ModMINI]

Well, I suppose it depends on the condition of the other parts of the car and what the car is worth to you?

[@MegaMilkman42]

how much would a repair like that cost???

[@ModMINI]

MegaMilkman42 Short block alone was around $2200, plus gaskets, fluids, tools, my labor time, etc. Expensive? Yes. Less expensive than buying a new car? Yes.

[@MegaMilkman42]

yes its less expensive but when something else breaks then your in the shop and spending more money

[@ModMINI]

MegaMilkman42 That's why it depends on how much the car is worth to you. I'd rather spend a little money now and then to keep an old MINI Cooper going than have car payments on a new 2014 MINI that is too big, can't turn, doesn't make the correct noises, and looks "startled."

[@jondresser4752]

Ive got a 06 MCS has the famous misfire cylinder 3. I have changed plugs wires, and coil. Didn't remove the CEL. Car feels great, lots of power, if it wasn't for the light I wouldnt think anything was wrong. Do you think it is a bad valve? Really dont wanna pull the head if I don't have too!

[@ModMINI]

+Jon Dresser If you changed plug, wires, coil and spark plug and it's still there, it could be low on compression. Anything under 90PSI or so and it will misfire. Perform a compression test and leakdown test. That will point you in the right direction. If compression is good, your problem lies elsewhere. Maybe a stuck injector. If compression is bad, leakdown test will show whether it is a valve or head gasket issue. I had a MINI a while back that had a P0304 and the root cause was a cracked valve seal.

[@jondresser4752]

+Mod MINI I did a compression test, everything seemed ok no difference in cylinders. Did a smoke test, no vacuum leaks in the intake system or exhaust. I noticed that my plugs on all 4 cylinders fouled out within a couple of months of driving, it then started to give me issues running rough, I cleaned up the plugs and it runs great again still misfire on cylinder three. Also is throwing a lean condtion from the post cat sensor. Sensor actually looks lean when you pull it out of the exhaust. (tip is white) but the plugs look like the engines running rich. Ive switched injectors 3&4 and there is no difference in misfire or anything. How can the plugs be showing rich and the post cat 02 sensor be showing lean! This car is driving me nuts. I own a shop, and can fix everyone elses car but mine!! Very frustrating!!

[@jondresser4752]

+Mod MINI Also my Long Term trim levels are around 11% which means the computer recognizing a "lean" condition is dumping extra fuel in the cylinders to compensate for the "lean" condition. also is a new O2 sensor post cat. I hate to think this but maybe I have a bad computer!

[@ModMINI]

+Jon Dresser Do you have a custom tune? If so, the tune might be bad. The post-cat O2 sensor is not really used for any air/fuel management calculations. The precat sensor is. Try swapping or replacing. Also, are you running the correct heat range plugs? BKR6EQUP for stock pulley, BKR7EQUP for 15%.

[@jondresser4752]

+Mod MINI no custom tune. Yes running the ngk plugs with a heat range of 6. And the code the computer is throwing is a post catalyst too lean code. Could this still be the front O2?

[@jetskiservice]

Hey this guy reminds me of someone my self! Haha! I always lap valve's with a drill. Your are wasting your time with the suction cup tool! I just picked up an 03 mini supercharged for $1000 bucks off CL. with a 104K miles very clean. It also threw a rod and the crank was shot in number one cylinder! ( just like this one )but did not punch threw the block like this one did, but did food bar the crank. So i decided to go a with different approach and get a motor with 92K miles from LKQ online for 1100 bucks and 6 month warranty! Now i will have an extra block w/rods/pistons/head for back up just in case it does it again or if i find another blowed up mini for $1000.

[@andersonauguste6647]

What took you so long Tim

[@ALH1415]

Hey, how much $$$ total you think you've put into your mini?

[@ModMINI]

Adrien Hupin The MINI in the video is not my own MINI.

[@fezh4543]

Hi modmini Just want to say thank you lots of your videos has help me on supercharged service Brakes Front bearing And the list is on and on Lol Anyways I know this video is old but I have watch few others of your videos where timing is involved I got my 04 R53 and I change the timing tensioner but I still got the rattle is not bad but is there for few minutes on cold start and the code of the camshaft also replace too code got clear out but at come back again so I’m sure my problem is my timing chain I was just wondering with the fancy tool you mentioned and use to tag this job Would that help me to not mess up the timing when put it back together and of course making sure the arrows and chain get aligned correctly Is just on your videos putting the chain back together looks so sample Something I will like to do and learn and definitely save up lots of money lol Like I did already on your other videos where I learn and save haha One Shop around my area say $1100 just labor The Other 4 did I call they don’t mess with it so I know this job might be difficult and that’s why they don’t want to But I will try my self i hope lol As longer I keep watching your videos over and over

[@ModMINI]

Glad the videos help, but sorry, what is your ask? Do you need the tool to hold the sprocket? Not mandatory if the timing cover is off, car is manual transmission and you have someone to help step on the brake and put car in gear to allow you to get the cam sprocket bolt tight.

[@fezh4543]

Thanks for get back to me I guess my big question was if this job can be easy to do and not screw up the timing? I know is not much space to work I okay with time consuming just don’t want to mess up and how to put it ok time and also Any chance send you a video of the Mini is short one where I’m sure with your knowledge you might be able to help me here if you can hear it is not loud but you can hear when start and goes out about couple seconds Thanks I will appreciated how to send the video or link where to put it at

[@lompeOELEWAPPER]

lol at 6:48 love the morse code joke

[@ModMINI]

It wasn't intentional! What did I say in Morse Code?

[@lompeOELEWAPPER]

2x short 1xlong, the letter U.... uhhhh

[@TheSitscha]

Hi, this is Sascha from Germany, I follow your Chanel since I bought an R53 eight weeks ago, your videos are very fine and easy to understand, thanks for that. My R53 has taken little bit of Coolant by High Revs especially on WOT . So I dismantled ( right english? ^^ ) the Engine on Sunday, a little bit different to you because I let the Subframe on the Car..... Anyway the Car has 135000 Km and I going to change the Piston Rings and any Gasket on the Motor , the Inside of the Zylinder looks Factoryfresh, but I´m not sure if I should do the Valve Job or not, whats your Opinion? Thanks for this Video , good night ;-)

[@ModMINI]

Hello. Thanks for watching my videos. If you are not consuming burning oil (especially after not driving the car for several days) and not getting valve noise, you probably don't need to do a valve job. And there is actually a way to replace valve stems without even removing the cylinder head, if you want to only do the valve stems, later. If your car is consuming coolant, that is probably a bad head gasket or a coolant leak. Bad valves, valve stems or piston rings will not cause coolant to be consumed.

[@TheSitscha]

***** Thanks for your answer, yes this sounds good, there´s no valve noise or anything, Engine runs very smooth.....ok I will replace any Gasket and its done.

[@ModMINI]

TheSitscha Glad I can help. The only time you would replace piston rings is if you have low compression or blue smoke out the tailpipe, and you know it's not the valves or valve stem seals.

[@jeffmullinix7916]

@ 12:31 new oil pan because the oil drain plug is screwed up . MMMMMM must be Jiffy Lube Now I know why this engine blew up . Damage was caused by improper oil and miss leading customers that they are getting fresh new oil when in fact they are getting a cheap new oil filter and that is it . A poor oil filter will damage your engine . More so than not changing your oil . Never ever have your oil changed at any of these oil change places . If you cant do it your self and have the changed to it to a place that is ( I know ) honest . LOL But there are some places that are . I have always used WIX filters and Mobil One oil . I get well over 300,000 miles on my cars and trucks and never ever had engine do this . NEVER ! What happen to this engine is neglect .

[@ModMINI]

The customer bought the car used so we'll never know. However, connecting rods are the weak point of this engine. I know a guy who bought his R53 brand new, always did his own oil changes, even sent out samples for analysis, but still developed rod knock at 100k miles. Not every engine is doomed - I personally know of a couple that have gone over 250k miles - some of these early failures may be manufacturing problems...

[@bigjoetheelectrician]

Rip the carbon on the valves

[@pierremarin4879]

En francais

[@ModMINI]

Remplace le blocque d'engine... ? Sorry, Je ne parle pas le francais

[@AnkleStabber]

"Sent it a little too hard bud"

[@HollywoodRoseJack]

This is not a valve job! This is merely a patch job. PEOPLE, you must take the cylinder head to a machine shop and get it professionally clean, pressure check, resurface the head, and re-grind the valves, all done by specialized machines. This man is cutting corners to make more money for himself and cheating the customers. I guarantee you that tiny 4 cylinder engine being supercharged, cylinder head will short lived and have issued in the future. Get it done right, Bro!! GOLD

[@ModMINI]

+HollywoodRoseJack I should have specified that it's just a valve seal job. The R53 cylinder head has been shown to be very reliable even under supercharged conditions. Except for the rare burned exhaust valve, in nearly every case the cylinder head far outlives the bottom end (piston rings, rod/main bearings) . I am not cutting corners to make money for myself. That would be lying and cheating. I am offering affordable ways to get a little more life out of the car.

[@kroy106]

Hahahaha.... If he intended to cheat anyone here, He let the cat out of the bag by posting this video. Nice job Mod MINI and I appreciate your efforts.

[@jeffmullinix7916]

The engine must be German because all bolts should not be Torqued just Goodintight .

[@HollywoodRoseJack]

Why death? Does your city ordinance allows you to operate an auto repair business in your house? Tell us your location? All of people threats of sabotage for my future business..

[@ModMINI]

+HollywoodRoseJack This is a personal hobby that I do on weekends. I am not an auto repair professional and this is not a business. I am in the Seattle WA USA area.

[@321357w]

+HollywoodRoseJack , your attitude would certainly cement my DIY repairs on my own vehicle and friends Mini's. If your honest, charge a reasonable price and do quality work, you shouldn't have anything to fear for your "future" business. Kurt is sharing his knowledge for Gen 1 Mini's for those of us who prefer to do our own repairs, especially after being burnt by both dealerships and independent repair shops! Get over it !