Rab Xenon | Synthetic Puffy Jacket | Gear Review

[@bilaltahir9978]

Is it durable enough for rock climbing?

[@diwoodoesthings8288]

It is somewhat fragile. However, this jacket is designed for use in climbing. Two way zip, excellent wind resistance.

[@danceswithbadgers]

Good run-through of the 2020 spec Xenon. I find myself in need of a light belay- type jacket and thought of the Xenon. Sadly, Rab have chosen to dumb it down for this year, and I like this version more than the new one, which has lost the two way zip - a step back in functionality which is hard to understand, and also has a lot of stitching on the outer shell. Rab says that's for increased breathability but IMO it just creates conduits for moisture ingress. Sadly, these changes mean that the Xenon has become a town jacket, and unless I can track down a 2020 spec Xenon like the one presented here I'm going to have to discount the Xenon as a serious mountain use piece. Shame, change is not always improvement.

[@diwoodoesthings8288]

10000% agree. They need to bring back the old Xenon

[@danceswithbadgers]

​​@@diwoodoesthings8288es, it's disappointing they changed it. I have an older version of the Xenon with a one-way main zip, Pertex Quantum shell and 60 gm/m sq Primaloft insulation. It's pretty old and I could stand to replace it and thought the new, lighter 2020 spec version was the one I'd go for. Damn', they ruined it. Edit:- after a frustrating search for a proper replacement for my old Xenon it looks like my best choice is the heavier (500g in size S) Rab Generator Alpine. A fuller feature set and more insulation than I really need but it has the features now missing from most light jackets of this type (2-way zip and internal drop pockets) and a properly protective outer shell. Designed for damp UK conditions, I guess I'll cope with its pack size, about half as much again as the Xenon.