Radiant Heat Manifold Installation for Heating our Off Grid Home

[@Off-Grid]

Here is the playlist for all the boiler videos. kzbin.info/aero/PLkmO_DrGWs-LpkCn7sSNvXsTWiNpfH-cz

[@spazzattack1188]

Looks like you are getting this finished up just in time for the cool Fall temps. I bet it will feel nice to have some proper heat this winter.

[@Off-Grid]

The pellet stove does a great job keeping the upstairs warm but even with the Mini-Split running downstairs the cold floors are no fun. Glad we decided to install the radiant heating. Thanks for watching!

[@beii-c4e]

@@Off-Grid What are your thoughts on a wood boiler or pellet boiler to provide hot water for the radiant floors?

[@Off-Grid]

@@beii-c4e having a pellet stove now so I'd have to say a pellet style boiler would be better. It is so easy, convenient and clean to use pellets vs wood. I don't like the fact that they are typically located outside. I've had lots of ideas about building a way to heat water via a traditionally looking fireplace. I do think that if they work as well as advertised then we would see them all over the place. The ones I have seen all seem to be vacated so they must not be that good over the long term. Just my opinion but hope it helps you decide. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jeffbarger3465]

nice clean look there! good Job!

[@Off-Grid]

Thanks Jeff. I'll have one more video of the setup and then we'll be back onto other things. Thanks for watching and hanging in there with us.

[@spazzattack1188]

I was thinking the same thing, Jeff.

[@danyonfontenot5903]

I ran into the same problem with my manifold threads i bought a set off of amazon to direct crimp the pex lines to the manifold. i just didn't trust the compression fittings the manifold came with for long time use. I then just took two inch pieces of pext and crimped them on to the sections for future use and used pex plugs crimped to the bottome

[@Off-Grid]

It was crazy how much I had to tighten them to get them to quit leaking. Haven't had any leaks since though.

[@lappinrappin]

I just went through this as well and was eventually able to get them all to seal. I paid special attention to lining up the pex to be perfectly aligned to the fitting (same distance on all sides) before I started tightening the main nut. Then as I tightened the main nut I used one hand to hold the pex in the same position. I was able to thread the nut by hand probably 3/4 of the way on. If so- this told me there was no binding and that I would likely have a good seal. Then when I switched to the wrench I tightened the fitting like crazy. A rule of thumb was to tighten until I couldn’t see any threads outside of the nut. Pressure testing with air is your friend- it saves a lot of headaches later when the system is full of liquid and you need to undo a fitting.

[@apauln]

Wish you would have explained the adjustments of the gauges. We couldn't figure out why we weren't getting the water to flow. Don't understand why there is a value to adjust but then you also have to adjust the gauges...

[@Off-Grid]

Thought I did. You simply loosen the lock nut and twist the gauge until you get the flow you want. It is a very fine adjustment and will take some trial and error to get it the way you want it.

[@guess313]

If you have two zones, does it support two external pumps/thermostat or it has to be external controller ?

[@Off-Grid]

You would need an external controller if you need more than one external pump. We just use the one pump and then control the zones by manually turning on or off a zone. We can also limit the flow to a zone without completely turning it off. You could have the same setup and then controllers to open or close each zone or loop as needed. The system does a great job at keeping the floor warm all winter.

[@williamnewton5402]

Great video / very clean setup. I'm planning to upgrade my boiler with the same unit you have for my hot water baseboard system and I'm pretty much going to copy your setup. Right now I have 3 zones, each with it's own circulating pump. I see that you have you your circulating pump feeding all of your loops. Does this mean you only have one zone? Did you notice if the boiler supports multiple zone connections? I'm guessing that I would just need to place my circulating pumps separately onto each of my loops and just position them on the individual manifold outlet for each of my loops. I think everything else I could pretty much copy exactly. Thanks, any input appreciated.

[@Off-Grid]

I only have one circulator pump and did recently upgrade to a larger pump after adding an addition to the house. I also took the screen out of the spin down filter because after two years a kind of slim film developed that would clogg it. The filter inside the unit has larger holes than the holes in the spin down filter with the screen is removed. I have several zones which can be manually turned on or off at the manifold. I'd suggest looking into installing actuators on each manifold valve instead of a pump. This way you could have one pump and an actuator to open and close each zone as needed. Would be cheaper, quieter, and use less power. Good luck on your system. It's fun figuring these things out.

[@TheTjm007]

Nice looking job. I'm gathering info to convert my 15' x15' 3-season porch to year round and want to do radiant heat floors. The thing I notice is not many weigh in on where the expansion goes in the loop. Manuals I've read say it's important the tank is after the pressure side of the pump, not on the suction side like your set up. Any thoughts on that? Problems? Thank you.

[@Off-Grid]

We haven't had any issues. The manual I had only said the tank needed to be on the supply side and not the return. This makes sense given that the supply side would be hot and wanting to expand vs the return side which is much cooler. Hope this helps, thanks for watching and commenting.

[@wakes_inc]

You always pump away from the expansion tank.

[@Off-Grid]

@@wakes_inc So does that mean the tank goes before the pump correct?

[@wakes_inc]

​@@Off-Grid That's correct. The way you ran your pipes is optimal. Heater output, to expansion tank, to pump. It keeps pressures the most consistent and removes the most air. There's a book you can take a look at if you want - pumping away by Dan Holohan. He also has a few videos on KZbin.

[@Off-Grid]

@@wakes_inc I'll look him up. Thank you.

[@jl5633]

Looks good but couple of things Expansion tank could be on supply or return side, but has to be always on negative side of circulator, ( pump away from tank) System pump is pumping against your boiler pump No primary loop

[@Off-Grid]

Hello, please explain more. I followed the directions and even talked to their support to clarify some things. The system works fine but id it could work better I'm interested.

[@jl5633]

Yes the system could work good for now, but the components will not last as long as supposed too. For example The bladder of the expansion tank will break faster cause is in the wrong side of pump. There is not really a primary loop, that’s why the pumps are crashing. It doesn’t matter what boiler it is , Rheem, Weil McLain, Navien, Vitodens, no matter the brand,…is piping practices for hydronic system. Check your installation manual and you will see the right piping layout for your system to work properly, consume less energy, and all components will last longer.

[@jl5633]

Page 35 of your installation manual

[@Off-Grid]

@@jl5633 Looked at pg 35 and that is how I set it up. The expansion tank is before the pump as in the diagram and I have two loops, same as the diagram. Am I missing something?

[@jl5633]

Ok so the green pump is on your supple line pumping away from the expansion tank, that’s good. Now the problem is that you have to pumps in the same loop, the taco pump and the pump inside the boiler. The pump inside the boiler should be use in your primary loop ( boiler pump), and the taco pump is your secundary loop pump ( system pump) 2 loops .

[@tomrunning357]

Not a good idea to connect the condensate drain directly into that kitchen waste line without a trape because of sewage and or sewer gas.a indirect line to a floor drain would be best.

[@Off-Grid]

I thought the same but the path of the line never enters the house. It goes from the sewer, line through the boiler, then to the outside. Plus the line is so small and has such a restricted path that no smell gets out at all.

[@apauln]

Nothing will come out of the manifold. Don't have to plug

[@builderman912]

my boss would fire me if i installed the condensate like that

[@builderman912]

otherwise its pretty good i think

[@builderman912]

dont put a coupling in on your later use pex, too much flow restriction

[@Off-Grid]

Good thing I'm the boss! LOL

[@warrenwalker8170]

Ha ha you bought a rheam you'll find out never buy a rheam

[@Off-Grid]

Ha ha, have been using it for years with zero issues....ha ha ha