Radio Control Hydroplane Prop Shaft Installation ... A Better Way!

In this video I'll show you a better way to mount the prop shaft stuffing tube and a nifty trick to get the shaft perfectly aligned with the crankshaft (for you electric guys, armature shaft... try to keep up!)
I mention Rattlesnake RC in the video, find them here www.Allrc1.com ... Take a look!
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[@mildtowildrc7343]

Man we need to call you the rc boat doctor!You got some skills in your builds and love the way you did the stuffing tube!I just had to drill one out of a proboat shockwave and what a job when they just pour resin in and take skill to drill out without damaging the hull!Live your tips and keep em coming💪

[@M5PerfHydros]

Thanks James!

[@timstebbins6295]

Thanks Scott. This is very helpful for a newbie. Great how-to tutorial. I now feel comfortable to cut a hole in the bottom of the hull!

[@M5PerfHydros]

I was thinking of you when I made this Tim!

[@strexttp]

Interesting video

[@supertimmeke1976]

I like them all....video's and boats!!

[@Cuttinglass118]

Great video . Currently building a sg121 I will def watch this again when installing tube

[@M5PerfHydros]

I'm glad this was helpful! Your sg121 should be an awesome boat... Happy building!

[@1965WHYTE]

Great stuff Scott...I do mine like that as well except I use a clamp/zerk fitting to hold the tube instead of soldering.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Clamp/zerk? I'm gonna need a picture of that!

[@1965WHYTE]

I posted it on your FB...Can't post pics here 🙄

[@homienat3374]

Great info mate thanks 🤙🤙

[@robertwoodard4661]

Sincerely appreciate your videos. Applying to my efforts.You never mentioned what type of painting equipment generally used by builders to paint boats in your video setting up painting area. Thanks and please continue videos.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hi Robert, I'm glad you like the videos. I use a regular automotive type paint gun (small one) to shoot my boats, using a traditional base coat/clear coat system. I've heard a lot of guys say good things about USC Spraymax 2K clear coat and I'm tempted to try it on my latest boat. If I do, you can be sure there'll be a video of it! Thanks for watchin'!

[@wmbeasley52]

Great videos I have watched them all, they are very helpful as I built a boat 30 years ago and couldn’t afford to finish it until I retired. I have back tractor a ton doing as many modifications as possible learned from your videos. Keep up the great videos and keep building, I will find more videos I hope.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Thanks Jim!

[@web3036]

great info thank you

[@949Designs]

Great Scott! (I’m sure you’ve never heard that one before😏) Another extremely helpful video. 🤙🏼

[@M5PerfHydros]

First time.... Not!

[@sammejo1]

Those square flex shaft ends are pressed to shape

[@daiciuapostol79]

hello good job, you know how I did I took the tube filled with salt and then I warmed with the gas lamp then I bent how it was needed end then I aligned as best I could with the motor shaft and the strut,and a nice boat came out .

[@seniteknologi3757]

I like your frame

[@M5PerfHydros]

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

[@hippywildchildracing]

How do you bend it to the strut end

[@bigbulletsworkshop5983]

great info what do you use for a tuned pipe and what do you use for shaft grease and where do you get it?

[@markwatts84]

Only thing missing from video is you actually bending the tube to get exact angle and without kinking the tube

[@M5PerfHydros]

I guess so, but that part goes so easily I didn't think it was necessary to include it in the video. My bad! If you try it you'll see... Hold the tube with both hands and give it slight bending pressure and it'll move very easily with zero tendency to kink. Go just a little bit at a time.... Bend, install, check alignment, repeat. Simple!

[@markwatts84]

I find doing it a hit and miss sort of thing. Some times i get it spot on, other times it kinks or other funky things do you ever worry about heating the tube up first to soften?

[@M5PerfHydros]

@@markwatts84 -- I've never needed to bend it so much that heating was necessary. Maybe you're fighting a motor mount angle issue? If you've got the motor positioned correctly the shaft should need very little bend, just a gentle arc is all.

[@scbart22]

I follow your utoube channel!

[@kenolson2777]

Scott, I know they use a hydraulic press to do the ends but I can't seem to find the video now. Warehouse hobbies had one at one time and you could get custom length double ended square drives, it was pretty cool.

[@M5PerfHydros]

I'll be checking this out... Maybe an upcoming video, who knows?

[@KB-zq9ck]

"A hole drilled into the epoxy-in tube to solder the stuffing tube in place." Good idea. I however like smooth finishes so what I do is I cut a small "Keyway" gap in the epoxied in tube inside the hull much like a bicycle seat tube, and I use a zip tie as a clamp. This keyway and zip tie setup will clamp the stuffing tube in place, inside the hull. I never had a problem with the stuffing tubes walking forward. Much like a bicycle seat post clamp downsized.

[@M5PerfHydros]

I understand, but this requires extending the tube into the hull further, slicing it, and a zip tie? I'm unable to post pictures in replies, but I've changed the cover photo of the video just for you Kevin! Take a look and let me know what you think

[@user-kb2yg3ol3q]

Do you need to seal the mane tube into the sleeve to stop water getting in to the hull

[@M5PerfHydros]

The slip fit tubing? Naw, a tiny bit of seepage is no big deal at all

[@waynebeeson4252]

I love your videos and all the information you add as you go. I have enjoyed so much that I just started my own build of a 1/8 scale hydro for FE. Seems more questions come up as I try and plan through. I saw that you angle the strut toward the turn fin slightly but was wondering do you have the motor and strut centered in the hull?

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hi Wayne, Thanks for the nice comments. You've kinda opened a big can of worms there. I've been meaning to do a full set-up video that would cover this and much more, just haven't got to it yet. So... The short answer for now is this; In 1/8 scale I offset the motor, shaft, and strut to the left about 3/16", and in gas I offset everything to the left between 1/4" - 3/8" depending on my mood at the time. Many reasons, some good, some debatable, but that'll have to wait 'til the video. Happy building!

[@waynebeeson4252]

@@M5PerfHydros Thanks. As I was planning out, this seemed to be along the lines I thought would be worthwhile to do. Any video you do has given me ideas and new aspects to consider so I appreciate your time and answers.

[@M5PerfHydros]

My pleasure Wayne

[@kyleboyer1074]

Great stuff, thank you! Mean while at my "shop"...( scratching head) 'How in the heck do they come up with the correct vertical stab angles?'....

[@M5PerfHydros]

Pictures! Get 8 x 10 prints done of the best pictures you can find and take measurements from them. Heck I cast pictures to my TV and zoom to 1/8 to get a lot of my measurements right off the screen!

[@kyleboyer1074]

@@M5PerfHydros Oh ok...I thought perhaps there might be a known length of the horizontal stabs somewhere (I'm talking about a T-6 style hull), but great idea, I'll give a try. Again Thank you.

[@billmitchell8305]

Hey Scott, in this video and maybe a couple others you mention hard spotting, but I haven't found any videos that explain your process. I'm guessing it might be something like drill an oversized hole, back fill with thickened epoxy, re-drill a correct sized hole for the fastener you're using. Am I close? And the purpose is to seal the wood? I'm getting ready to poke some holes in my first build since I was a teen. Thanks, I really get a lot from your videos!

[@M5PerfHydros]

Oh so close! You got all of it except that I don't thicken the epoxy. I oversize drill everything, then put some tape on one side of the hole, stand the hull so the hole is perpendicular, and fill it with epoxy. You need to babysit it for a while and keep adding epoxy as the epoxy soaks into the surrounding wood. Once the epoxy starts to set it'll top off and hold. The whole point is to prevent the wood from collapsing where you tighten things. When that happens it just looks bad, and makes you feel like a bad builder. Don't be a bad boat builder! Also, and from a practical standpoint, when the wood crushes around your turn fin mount the alignment changes considerably. When this happens you lose performance and, yes, once again you've become a bad boat builder. Be a good boat builder. Use hard spots.

[@billmitchell8305]

@@M5PerfHydros Those are some important details--I'm glad I asked! Thanks Scott!

[@georgevprochazka5316]

Nice work mister ! Would the same setup be compatible with electric power?

[@M5PerfHydros]

Yes, absolutely

[@kerrygraham2980]

Hey scott thanks for your videos. Can you do a video on how to check the balance of a 1/8 scale hydro. Thanks Kerry

[@M5PerfHydros]

Yes! I've been planning to do a full video about boat setups and I'll discuss weight balance too. Problem; I've moved to a new property and all my gear is packed away while I build a new shop. So... Please be patient. Much more coming soon!

[@CarlosReyes-tf7ul]

Hey, how your doing love your videos decided to build an electric balsa U-95 hope it comes out good.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Cool... You know the original U95 had two turbines in it so you might as well put two motors in! Good luck with the build!

[@CarlosReyes-tf7ul]

Being that it's my first project ever. I'm going to try just with one motor being that the boat is being made with balsa wood I'm afraid two motors will be too strong for a balsa boat. So one 1600kv motor for now using a 200amp esc I'm actually enjoying this build tricky on the curvy sides but coming out nice. If it comes out good then my next project will be one of your boats cause I love your vids and your plywood boat's are awesome.

[@M5PerfHydros]

@@CarlosReyes-tf7ul - Have you seen the kits from MLBoatworks? They are awesome and fit together perfectly like a puzzle. Check it out here; mlboatworksrc.com

[@CarlosReyes-tf7ul]

@@M5PerfHydros wow thanks

[@yogamon]

Is that first tube, the one epoxied to the floor still 12 inches or you cut some off?

[@M5PerfHydros]

No it's much shorter, just long enough to extend fully through the floor

[@chefchef183]

Any info or video on how you actually cut the hole. Deciding where? What angle? Tools used? Thanks Andy

[@M5PerfHydros]

The slot will be much longer than you might initially think, and here's how I figure out where to start... I guess! Seriously, I guess at the starting point and slowly grind or file the slot forward or rearward as needed until the tube aligns perfectly with the strut and the coupler on the engine. Just go for it... You can do it!

[@terryperrott9913]

Is there a magic depth the strut is set & angel??

[@M5PerfHydros]

I was hoping you could tell me! No Terry, there isn't a magic number. Every hull is different and rides differently, so the strut must be adjusted in response to what the boat wants. What I can tell you is my typical starting point, which is between 1 1/16" to 1 3/16" deep (centerline of prop shaft to floor), and 1° - 1.5° positive angle (strut deeper at the rear). From there it's anyone's guess. Good luck!

[@crashbandit3018]

I am new to the channel and rc boating. Great videos. I have a question was type of grease do you use on your flex shafts?

[@M5PerfHydros]

That's a common question.... Seems when racers ask it's because they think there may be a great speed secret hiding in some sort of "secret sauce", but actually I don't think it matters much. Just always remember to remove the cable after each day of running, clean it and lube it generously with any decent sort of automotive type bearing grease and put it back in. If you wanna get fancy use a synthetic high temp grease. You'll pay more and feel better, but it won't really make a difference!

[@crashbandit3018]

Yeah that’s what I use. It just seems to be none on there after everytime I take it out of the water. But thank you for the response.

[@M5PerfHydros]

@@crashbandit3018 That's normal, don't sweat it!

[@reco5872]

great info for newbies any suggestions for fuel tank set up for 1/8 scale nitro I bought a 20oz du-bro tank but ive heard something about needing a small tank as well and bigger fuel lines?

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hmm, that sounds like a really good idea for a video! During my next boat build I'll shoot a little spot about fuel tanks. Meanwhile.... I am a fan of sump tanks. A sump tank is a small volume tank (2 - 4 oz) that is the last stop for fuel before the mixture needle. The theory is that it's easier, or more certain, to keep fuel focused around the pick-up tube in a smaller tank. Imagine having only 3 oz of fuel remaining, last lap of the race, with it sloshing all over the place within a 20 oz tank. The pick-up gets exposed to air in the last turn while you're leading and pffft your motor dies. Not good! My favorite set-up is a 14oz main tank with a 2oz sump. 16oz is all you'll need in a typical scale race, even if you need to run a couple penalty laps (hopefully not often!). I use stainless hypodermic tubing, .165" od, .135" id (.015" wall). It's very difficult to bend nicely, but doable with some practice and with the right dies. Watch for the video before too long!

[@terryperrott8567]

So if you take a straight edge from the back side of the riden pad on sponson to the transom that would be appropriately the angle of the strut ?? Or even a good starting point

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hmm, possibly. To be honest, I've never checked the angle of the plane relative to the ride pads and strut centerline. I'll have to do that. Typically I set my strut to have between 1°- 1.5° positive angle (rear of strut lower than front of strut)

[@alexcooper-dambrosio6532]

How do you your strut

[@M5PerfHydros]

I will make a video on strut mounting soon!

[@nicholasmorrow2601]

The end is pressed

[@M5PerfHydros]

Bingo!

[@michaelsell6928]

Are these kits that you cut? I want to get into boats and not racing but don’t have a clue where to start. I am a full on plane builder so I have the skills, patience and tools.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hi Michael, Yes I design/cut/build all my own stuff now, but I've built several kit boats and fiberglass hulls as well and this is where I'd suggest you start. So here's what you do; If you're just looking for plans so you can scratch build your own boat, Newton Marine has a huge selection here; www.newtonmarine.com/ The best place I know of to buy wood kits, and this is definitely what I would recommend based on your building experience, is MLBoatworks; mlboatworksrc.com/ But if you're into fiberglass, many good glass boats and cowlings are available from RC Boat Company; rcboatcompany.com/ Between these three you should be able to find almost anything you'd want. Please let me know if you have any questions along the way, I'd love to see how you do! Have you found me on Facebook? I share a lot of additional information there. Search for M5 Performance Hydroplanes and join the fun!

[@bryanc9420]

Who do you get your running hardware from ??

[@M5PerfHydros]

Hi Bryan, I get most of my parts from Bill Brandt at Rattlesnake RC here; www.allrc1.com/ What are you building?

[@davidbrocklebank5526]

Really do like your vids man, have been watching kevin todds vids as well....I think your replaceable stuffing tube technique could be a better idea, based on the fact that you are lined teflone wise all the way to the end of the shaft?. However, do you see any advantage of his technique ? btw, no criticism of either posts, more than one way to skin a cat.

[@M5PerfHydros]

Thanks David, I haven't send Kevin Todd's method so I'm not sure what to compare mine to. Can you provide a link to it? Even still, what's not to like when you have a perfectly aligned and quickly replaceable stuffing tube? You're right... There must be a dozen ways to accomplish that, but as long as we all get to the same place it's all good!

[@markvanyo4302]

@@M5PerfHydros I found the Kevin Todd videos with a description of the permanent stuffing tube install. This video describes drilling a diagonal hole through the bottom of the boat. RC boat Hydroplane rigging part 2 stuffing tube done perfect kzbin.info/www/bejne/n4uxqZpum66Sm6c This video shows the permanent stuffing tube already epoxied into place. And the delicate bending action begins at 0:20. RC boat hydroplane rigging part 4 strutting my stuff kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5mZmJqpgb52jtk

[@dustindenelcabrera4608]

Hello. Nice video!! How would i know where to make the whole? How to measure it? Thanks sir

[@M5PerfHydros]

The slot will be much longer than you might initially think, so do what I do... Guess! Seriously, I guess at the starting point and slowly grind or file the slot forward or rearward as needed until the tube aligns perfectly with the strut and the coupler on the engine. Just go for it... You can do it!

[@dustindenelcabrera4608]

M5 Performance Hydroplanes Scott Meyers I'm one of your subscribers. I'm always watching your uploads. By the way I'm from Philippines, thank you so much sir.

[@M5PerfHydros]

@@dustindenelcabrera4608 Wow! I'm glad you like the videos. I plan to do a lot more build videos soon!

[@dustindenelcabrera4608]

Hello sir. Can i use 4mm flex shaft to my 4092 2140kv motor?

[@M5PerfHydros]

All of my boats are nitro powered, so I don't really know the proper setup for an electric boat. One of the best electric boat racers I know is Bill Brandt, owner of Rattlesnake RC, and he could probably help. You'll find him here; www.allrc1.com/