Railcore II 300ZL Project R3D 3D Printer Kit Review

[@JohnOCFII]

Very thorough review! As someone who is building the printer from the BOM and self-sourcing parts, just wanted to pass along that there are many folks using different parts cooling fans, different fan nozzles, and different bed sensors (BLTouch, Precision Piezo, etc.). It is an easily modifiable printer, whether you source it all yourself, or get from Project R3D (with their awesome wiring bundles and great QC on the rails).

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

The 2019 Update will fix most of the issues he found as well Joe Project R3D

[@lasersandlayers]

Joseph Podgorski very much looking forward to that!

[@mghumphrey]

Joseph Podgorski - Is there a mailing list to get on so we can be notified when the 2019 update is available?

[@lasersandlayers]

Joseph Podgorski also, can we please get a ZLT kit? 😬😬😬

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

@@lasersandlayers soon, this first ZLT kit will be shipping this week and then we will be opening up orders shortly after we just want to ensure everything is proper before we ship out a bunch.

[@TheoRien]

The hardened nozzle needs 15-20 °C more than a regular brass nozzle. This could be the reason for the issues you had with nylon.

[@willmoran5694]

do they really? i use a hardened steel nozzle and i dont use it anymore because it wouldnt print right, i thought it was just a quality problem but i didnt know that they needed to be heated more, maybe i will try that.

[@furkanbicer154]

@@willmoran5694 thermal conductuvity of hardened steel is lower than brass , so yo need to increase temperature to heat filament enough. if you dont , you should print so much slow.

[@Magician169]

Steel (nozzleX) nozzles don't conduct heat as well as brass so you have to increase the temp ten degrees depending on the filament.

[@karlosss1868]

That benchy at 75mm/sec was insane! Geeezzzz...I love this hobby.

[@jadesontal4947]

Nothing special with a core, 75mm/s is slow for a core actually, 150mm/sec by 6000mm/s² accleration would be nice^^

[@paulie-g]

Voron2 does that with klipper, although it's pushing the V6 to slightly beyond limit at common layer heights. With the mosquito hotend, that should be easily doable.

[@rabenklang7]

@@jadesontal4947 as i understood it, it is about the bed level accuracy and the special aspect was the very thin layer hight with this speed. It would have been nice to know, how well it performs at 150 or 200mm/sec.

[@harles255]

Right now Filastruder has kits starting at $850. One heck of a deal for a pretty darn impressive printer!

[@StuffWithKirby]

For nylon I have found a temperature change of a few degrees hotter can make a major difference. Also no fan. On my lulzbot mini the nylon was breaking apart easily at 235, but once i bumped it up 15 degrees it was perfect.

[@versatile3d64]

One problem I found on my build was that most steppers have at least 1mm of endplay, so the Z height can change as the part weight increases. I had a lot of problems with weighty prints, and I found some steppers "springier" than others, so I put in the stiffest ones I could find to help resist the affects of gravity is the part weight increased. I built a 300ZLT, but I imagine the effect will be amplified on taller machines. Imagine a .1mm change amplified as the print gets taller, the part will actually take on a lean. One taller machines I think a thrust bearing setup would eliminate the endplay problem.

[@nerys71]

god I want one of these soooooo badly. I saw some of the 0.02mm (not a typo you read that right) layer height prints this machine can achieve and they are truly awe inspiring !! I can print benchy's like that all day long with my ender 2 army. ...... at 20mm/s max speed !!! this thing does it equal or BETTER at 75mm/s staggering. GOD I want one of these things so bad. who do I have to eat to get one......... as for bed leveling. I question if (within a reasonable price point) if its even possible to achieve the needed resolution with a mechanical bed detection solution. meaning I don't think a mech switch solution can level with enough precision to achieve the better than 0.02 resolution you NEED to get a 0.02 layer height.

[@jstevewhite]

The one comment I'd make is that the current design has a FULL STEP Z distance of .01mm. The BLTouch I use is repeatable to .01. After a couple of cycles of bed leveling, it reports .004 across the *entire bed*. Even if you assume that it's limited to .01 across the whole bed, that's still well within the required tramming for .02. That said, I usually start with a much thicker layer, anyway, for adhesion - like, 200% high and 200% wide.

[@DanielLicata]

You can use a different bed leveler on the Rail Core, only this kit ships with the one in the video. From what I understand it's easy to replace and you can always start with it if you source the parts yourself. From my research into this printer over the last 6 months it's very easy to modify to what you want.

[@alicemyslime]

Best printer I've used! Glad to see you review it!

[@brandengooch4101]

Is there a website I can go to buy this kit? Does it come with everything I need? I'm looking for a serious printer to add to my 3 others

[@Reds3DPrinting]

do you still use this printer? Im curious because this seems like a prusa xl 5 years early lol

[@dickeyseamus]

Those prints, with that kind of detail, at those speeds are amazing. I want this printer!!!

[@oldsjunkie1]

Well then, seems my next build isn't going to include a lot of time and trouble sourcing parts and hoping everything works together after all. These folks seem to have nailed it. Core XY has been at the top of my list and quality, affordable rails was sitting right below. Adequate build volume, Duet, Bondtech...Nice work Railcore!

[@joey1_]

17:48 jam goes on toast not printers that's why it failed

[@daniellim8138]

Lol

[@eddiemoser3150]

well done

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS oversize (read: double at least) an SSR for the expected load. The heat rise at rated load requires a heatsink and fan cooling to keep the magic smoke contained.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

You get a heart for MAGIC SMOKE

[@Backenfutter85]

That Benchy printed at 75mm/s blew my mind. I really need to build this printer. I hoped you put this printer on your table and you did. Thanks Joel!

[@tmike4160]

I believe these style of printers are the future not just for at home printing but industry too. I think I3 style cr10s and prusas have reached their limit. Really want the tall model!

[@jstevewhite]

Hi, Joel - Project R3D has been offering pre-assembled RailCore 2 300ZLs... They are just the kit, built by the folks who gathered the parts, but it will save you the build time.

[@dontknowler]

IMO they are not just the kits. The kits do not have the touchscreen - it is just being advertized as a possible future option. While the pre-assembled printers already have the touchscreen.

[@MatthewMcCabe]

I'd love to build one some day. Working on a Voron 2.1, but this one is on my list!

[@ScottVanKirk]

Nice job on the review Joel. Very thorough.

[@brandengooch4101]

Ok... so where can I go to pick up the entire "Ready To Go" kit that I can assemble and start printing?! This thing is a beast😍😍

[@BigT1984]

I think this is going to be my first printer, I'm an all in kind of person no baby steps.

[@StopChangingUsernamesYouTube]

Skipped Hiwin rails because they didn't add to the build relative to the expense, but used the E3D gold edition v6. Not to knock the build, because it's just plain cool (and while it tickles me, the gold v6 is only like $40 more on the cost of the whole bot), but it makes me wonder how many corners I could cut in a scratch build without sacrificing print quality and reliability. Filed under "fun project ideas for later."

[@fooman2108]

I know this is an older video, I would love to see this printer try a couple of things (a speed boat (benchy) and a torture toaster!) perhaps with the palette also.....

[@l3d-3dmaker58]

for the price of that printer, Id give them a $100 tip! it's cheap if you see what it does, maybe I have to save some money and buy it as my 2nd printer

[@johnm.gerard1718]

Oh, did you ever do a video on the different Core XY printer types and which you like best? I see there is the ones with the X axis at the top of the printer with different rail configurations and the Print bed moving up and down. I prefer a printer with 4 lead screws one at each corner of the bed. and the one like this printer and the Voron that the Z and X axis work together to print where the bed stays fixed to the bottom. I would probably use a dual gear direct drive system.

[@sarahadkins2540]

That is a stunning 3d printer (kit)! Shut up and take my money! I liked the video for the true level reference.

[@jasonlipavsky7371]

I have video of us somewhere at mrrf 2019 we turned the rail core on its side and printed with it, I'll find it and post

[@jz2188]

Thanks for this Joel, I'm going to retrofit an X5SA kit for starters as it could benefit from most of the frame/rail mods, then a new self sourced build once the BOM maths have been done by me for a 400mm Z , saved me designing one from scratch as this incorporates all my ideas apart from a mech bed sensor, not seen the 3 Z motors before so that is a winner!

[@kalaniripley1371]

Well... I suppose I need to get myself another printer.

[@patrickwatkins7572]

just not this one, - prone too board failure, ... overpriced spare parts.... high five !

[@mostlymissiles]

@@patrickwatkins7572 I have duet on 2 printers and works great, all boards fail if you connect them wrong

[@patrickwatkins7572]

smiles john

[@patrickwatkins7572]

@@mostlymissiles smiles john

[@tonyakens8228]

@@patrickwatkins7572 The duet is the best board on the market currently, hands down.

[@pandracchio]

When I've seen this machine in the Midwest RepRap festival I really thaught it could make a difference. Finally it's here and hopefully it will be soon shipped to EU. As a 3D artisti I'd love to buy this wonder-machine. Thanks so much Joel for making this review I was really looking forward to it!

[@tonyakens8228]

EU kits soon!

[@pandracchio]

@@tonyakens8228 That is great news!

[@Gasrovescio]

can I ask you today which printer would you recommend as corexy ? railcore 2 , troodon Vivedino, Voron 2.4, .....

[@Shmuzznik]

wow...Wow...WOW! That benchi is sooooo KICKBUTT!

[@penguinlife9239]

What were you saying at 12:03 about the bowe folding up on itself?

[@AlephOneHalf]

Doesn't the hardened steel nozzle have a lower heat conductivity? Might be the reason why the nylon prints didn't turn out so great.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It does, and, it's possible.

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

That is very likely, the hardened steel nozzles tend to be a thermal bottomless pit. We tend to adjust our temps up between 15-30c above brass. Joe Project R3D

[@welle417]

Came here to offer this up. Nailed it!

[@duodream]

Robert did a great job on his super-long build stream! It was fun to watch. The Etch-a-sketch gantry system isn't CoreXY though, it's a standard crossed XY gantry like an Ultimaker printer.

[@detman68]

do you know what Roberts channel is i would like to watch his live stream

[@Reds3DPrinting]

Joel, do you know why the e3d tool changer was discontinued?? It seemed like the perfect prusa xl before the prusa xl

[@Geo-Shi]

I'll be watching the developments on this project closely :) And will buy a kit, once it's available in Europe.

[@johnm.gerard1718]

I like this machine do to using the Core XY system and E3D gold edition hotend. I have the gold edition hotrod on my Tevo Tornado. But hearing that you could not get Nylon to print might be an issue for me. I want to print in nylon 12 some times, other material like PLA + type, PETG is my goto filament type and TPU, or Nijaflex types. I just don't know now whether this is my next printer. I am snuggling to get My Creality Ender 3 Max working I can not get layers to stick together. most of my printing does not have to be supper supper great but good enough for prototyping. With reasonable good looking parts. Speed is a plus. I am sure I would print some part at a finer detail is I had there option. I do like the idea around Core XY over a Cartesian style printer for many reasons. One being the bed does not move cutting out ringing that is caused by the Bed moving in and out.

[@welbot]

Sure does look like a bit of a beast! Thanks for sharing!

[@neuxstone]

Your Wham Bam is warping slightly from heat....the problem with "spring steel is its BiMetal that expands "non-uniformly". Go down to your local sheetmetal shop and have them sheer you a mild steel galvanized piece...no warp...other than that this printer is SMOKIN HOT and after checking out the price, VERY REASONABLE! If I had the cash I would order one....very nice review too! Another suggestion is to tram the whambam at different temps to "catch" the warp at higher than PLA temperatures.

[@sabahoudini]

The extra fan power is for bigger nozzles so it's actually a good thing. With a 1.2mm nozzle you'll have it closer to 100%

[@mostlymissiles]

I'm running the volcano 1.2mm nozzle, fan is at 50-60 for PETG

[@sabahoudini]

@@mostlymissiles Thanks for that, for PLA it will be more so I'd say the powerful fan is a pretty wise choice .

[@GregAtlas]

If you double the size then that's essentially the same system I've been building my printer from scratch to be. I'll get those higher end parts some day when I can afford them; starting with the linear rails and straight lead screws.

[@kazolar]

Tried the duet ir sensor, couldn't get it to work reliably on different print surfaces either -- I switched to piezo on one machine and bl touch on another -- PS -- love the lead screw compensation duet -- produces absolutely crazy level bed -- I am using 4 lead screws -- and it works incredibly well -- your bed has to be dead flat though

[@turk639]

For the jam it might be that the e3d spacer is still in the bowden coupler this should be removed or else the bowden shifts

[@cerberes]

That thing is pretty sweet. Nice review Joel.

[@MooSaysDaCow]

What's the difference between the R3D Railcore II and their D1700 printer?

[@crussty3d]

I think the only weakness on this machine is the IR probe. I'd NEVER had success getting one of the differential IR probes to perform consistently in my environment on any of the machines I've tested with one.

[@tonyakens8228]

Very easy to bolt on a bltouch

[@turk639]

Or just slap a precision piezo on it

[@drammy]

@@turk639 have you done this? I've used bltouch with little success, ezABL with great success but would also like to try a piezo disc. I've struggled to find a way to mount them on my Cartesian printers (all I've got). I see they mount well on Deltas but what about CoreXY? Do they mount better on these style of printers?

[@turk639]

@@drammy for a cartesian I might recommend using the under bed piezo's because the movement of the z might give some false readings. on my corexy it works great and have had very reliable probing done with it. check out www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/ they have setups for mounting under your bed.

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

BLTouchs are on the way moving forward all new units will have BLTouchs but SSSSHHHH we arent announcing that until tomorrow! Joe Project R3D

[@mrolo72]

Hi, Joel. I've cut my teeth on an E3P and been around the block several times with my MK3S. I'm eyeing up the CoreXY printers for my "endgame" printer and have it narrowed to four. I hope that somebody (preferably you) does a four-way comparison on the following: Railcore II, Hypercube Evolution, SECKit SK-Go, and Voron 2.4. I was leaning towards the SK-Go, but they are unavailable because of Covid. I started to lean towards the Voron, but your video just made me indecisive again. I'm taking my time with the decision, but all of these printers look very impressive. You provided your thoughts on the Railcore. What about the other three?

[@alicemyslime]

Also, PEI is IR transparent and won't work with the IR sensor that kit gets.

[@JeffDM]

Yeah. There's a lot to like about the IR sensor but it's clearly not a universal sensor. I don't currently use any IR compatible build surfaces. The IR sensor's designer goes as far as suggesting painting the back side of the PEI, but that sounds like a bad idea.

[@mostlymissiles]

@@JeffDM replace the IR sensor with a bltouch

[@Akegata42]

I used to IR sensor on PEI for about a year, it works just fine. Just changed it to a precision piezo orion though, which is imho the perfect sensor, but the IR does indeed work with PEI.

[@ericfletcher8454]

@@mostlymissiles Or Better yet replace it with a Precision Piezo Orion and use a Screw Mount E3Dv6 heatsink. THAT is a bombproof and robust setup that gives a true nozzle height

[@kazolar]

I tried like my damnedest to get the it sensor to work on pei. I wasn't going to pain the back of it black. I place a piece of black paper under the pei, on top of the aluminum, and I still got unreliable/unrepeatable results. I too switched to piezo, and that is absolutely the most accurate, but it's not perfect, you must have a clean nozzle before probing any oozing will mess up you results. It's still a setup where I need to clean the nozzle manually before I start the print. My other config with a bl touch can just click print and go.

[@UloPe]

This is basically everything I've been idly thinking about putting together 'one of these days'. Now it only needs a piezo probe instead of the IR thing and a Zesty remote direct extruder for perfection.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

OH YES a Zesty!!!

[@toyotaboyhatman]

some of that detail is CRAZY! this is interesting, don't know if I want this now or wait until there's a clone that's a little less "kit" and more assembled

[@joseph_pogo]

Project R3D offers it assembled as well

[@StormEnnairo]

This is not a 3D printer, this is madness !

[@MrExo_3D]

Wish Voron 2.2 full hardware kit was available

[@kenfetter8445]

I'm looking into getting a printer I can printer Polycarbonate with and maybe some higher temperature filaments. my question is if you were going to get a high temperature printer with an open budget what would you get?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Have a look at the Funmat HT. I just wrapped on a video for it and it’ll be on the channel in roughly two weeks. Go to visionminer.com they carry it and are super helpful.

[@obordes]

Thanks for the review ! This printer is almost exactly what I am looking as my next printer since several months. Linear rails; bondtech & direct extruder, 32 bits electronic etc... But what about the enclosure ? Do it works as it is not closed on the top ? did you try ABS or ASA ? What about Flex print and the bondtech extruder ?

[@tonyakens8228]

We have a fully enclosed top in the works. All the steppers are outside the build volume (except the extruder) for this reason. ASA and ABS print g reat on it, as does TPU.

[@kresimirzezelj8530]

Hi Joel! I sue nylon and Alloy 910 a lot and have an idea why you had issues. Nylon has issues when you have any wind blowing (including hotend cooling fan). Even fast head movement can cause too intense air circulation

[@MONTY-YTNOM]

THIS is what the Raise3D should have been. I love the looks of this printer as a working machine. Brilliant review mate. Just hope that it gets to the UK . RAILCORE If you want a UK tester let me know :)

[@tonyakens8228]

It'll be in the UK soon :)

[@MONTY-YTNOM]

@@tonyakens8228 As a kit or the VAT and Duties would kill it price wise.

[@harthenry]

Where can I find the build of this machine as discussed at 2:20 ?

[@harles255]

Archive of the build stream lives here. www.twitch.tv/kninedhp/videos?filter=archives&sort=time

[@tonyakens8228]

railcore.org - it's 100% open, including all the fusion cad models. Have fun!

[@mostlymissiles]

looks like the main build vids went away www.twitch.tv/kninedhp/videos/all

[@Hawk1966]

Needs a front door and a hood and it's fully enclosed. As a kit it's just beyond my disability to accomplish. It's a dream machine, as you said it's a bunch of good, even great ideas. I'd like a different leveling sensor. As previously mentioned, it could so easily be fully enclosed. As complex a build I don't see why it doesn't have dual extrusion. Love the concept, hands down it's a cherry picked pile of parts that makes me giggle like a school girl. I'll never be able to build one which in some ways sucks but knowing that the hobby is heading in this direction makes me very happy. Happy holidays everyone! Happy printing!

[@jstevewhite]

I'm working on the doors and hinges as I type this (printing the ... 3rd? set of prototype hinges right now). Tony and I were brainstorming an hour ago about the "lid", or "top", or "cover". I've got a prototype here waiting to be assembled. That's where we're going. I also plan on making mine (the original prototype :D ) dual extrusion by putting another hot end on the Y carriage and adding a bowden extruder - so one direct, one bowden. Best of both worlds, eh? :D

[@Hawk1966]

Excellent! Man I wish my hands worked. That thing is a tinkerers dream. And I love the enthusiasm. Would love to see it dual extruding!

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

@@Hawk1966 We also do offer a fully assembled version on our website. www.projectr3d.com/products/railcore-300zl-fully-assembled-1 Joe Project R3D

[@BGraves]

I designed, machined and assembled a core x y machine that I use several times a week. I chose not to go with more than one z axis raill because I was scared I was going to experience binding because technically it is mechanically constrained. I guess the slop allows for it?

[@tonyakens8228]

There is a pivot on each of the Z yokes allowing it to level without over-constraining. If it were rigidly mounted it would be.

[@jstevewhite]

There's no "slop" in the sense you mean it. The bed is attached to the Z-yoke with 3mm screws and faucet washers in slots that allow some flex - and allow it to come out in an emergency, but allow no unintended motion. Mostly because if you e.g. disconnect one Z motor and hit "Go up 50mm" you'd have a really bad time as it bent the crap out of your lead screws and made dramatic noises (Z has such massive mechanical advantage).

[@BGraves]

@@jstevewhite OH! I see it in the model. A decent solution to the over constraint issue. Wonder if 2 lead screws is enough? Geez.. I just noticed there's 3. I Imagine adjusting the amperage of the z motors would prevent breaking things

[@jstevewhite]

@@BGraves Tony did a test where he unplugged one stepper and commanded a long Z move, and it was fairly dramatic, but because of the slots and washers, it survived. I think, IIRC, it still bent a lead screw, but better that than other things that could have died. :D

[@BGraves]

@@jstevewhite Why did you choose to use 3 z motors rather than tying all of the leadscrews into a common belt? Would eliminate the need for the expensive board, 2 more motors, and the board expansion. With a sturdy frame there would only be a need to level once, right?

[@AlexK07010]

Hi Joel - Can you post your railcore profile?

[@RegularOldDan]

Regarding the cooling - given the Duet and such, I would assume you could push this thing well above 75mm/s. I wonder if you could push this thing above 100mm/s at which point more cooling might be needed. That said, I would agree you probably never would be going to 100% fan but, I guess I would rather have something OP and pull it back than have something not up to snuff and never being able to achieve what I need. Nice review!

[@ericfletcher8454]

There are many of us printing at 150mm/s and faster with this printer

[@huskywithcoffee1568]

If you're willing to source it yourself, the VORON V2.1 is theoretically capable of just as much and resolves some of the issues you noted (part cooling, mechanical bed leveling), and should be somewhat less expensive since it uses more commodity electronics. That said, it's not currently available in kit form - self-source only.

[@jstevewhite]

Again, not a pissing contest; the Voron is a great machine, but the Z resolution is 4 or 8 times more coarse than that of the Railcore2 (depending on whether you use a 0.9º or 1.8º stepper). I'm not sure what you mean by the issues being part cooling (Joel had issues with overcooling) or mechanical bed leveling (the Railcore does it, with greater resolution - see Z resolution )...

[@huskywithcoffee1568]

I meant the Z sensors by mechanical bed leveling (his complaint about the optical sensor) - using a switch or FSR to get the Z zero. This wasn't meant as a slight against the RailCore - it's an awesome machine, with different pros and cons against the Voron. The two are really in a league of themselves when it comes to open source printers!

[@jstevewhite]

@@huskywithcoffee1568 LOL - I don't mean to sound testy, either. It's hard to convey tone in text. I was just asking to clarify. The optical sensor works GREAT on some surfaces, but poorly on others. I have converted the prototype to BLTouch because I like to experiment with different surfaces. The IR sensor worked flawlessly on PrintInZ skin, for instance, but not so well on a buildtak clone. We're working on some other sensor-based functions as well :D The Voron solution to the problem we've had finding good idlers is clever, I think. High parts count, but better than most cheap idlers, I'd wager. I admire the cleanliness of the print carriage, too; I'm still trying to figure out how to do something that clean with RC2. But to be fair, we have divergent goals that shape the printer to a great degree: we had as a primary design goal the ease of testing, tweaking, and experimenting with different hot ends and the like as a primary consideration, which precludes a 'standard' clean print carriage. :D The Voron was clearly intended to be built as such, to get the clean look and characteristic visuals.

[@tankkiler308]

Is there any update on whether the kit is gonna be offered? The link is broken and their website just shows parts kits and not even everything needed. I dont mind sorcing but work wants one and they want a single purchase.

[@shenqiangshou]

Good review Joel. How noisy or quiet is the printer when printing? At 75mm/s? Cause in order to get those crazy layer heights, it's gonna be printing a long time (even at 75mm/s), so unless it is quiet, it's not gonna be suitable for a home/office kind of environment.

[@InfiniteSmasher]

Hi Joel! Can you please make another video on the Flashforge Finder that you received 2 years ago?

[@aderl6220]

I have made a hypercube and can print a twisted case at 140mmps haven't tried higher but it was fine :-)

[@Titan3DAZ]

What about the pre-built one? Would that be the King of the printers? Excluding the industrial printers of coarse.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

There is a pre-built one now?

[@Titan3DAZ]

@@3DPrintingNerd Yeah, on the filastruder site. It got moved from R3D. Idk why though. www.filastruder.com/products/railcore-ii-300zlt-assembled

[@mynameisben123]

Hi Joel, what do you think about the BLV MGN Cube? Actually I was searching for reviews for it when I stumbled across this video. Seems like a fairly similar design to this - no compromise, optimise everything, DIY open source kit.

[@hazonku]

That thing is INSANE!

[@elfpimp1]

Joel, would you say direct is better than bowden for nylon? I've never printed in nylon, I only use it to clean my nozzle..

[@PcandTech]

Dumb question since i don't see a screen how do you load models, only via Wifi or USB? if so does the pc needs to stay on while printing?

[@zaheerahmedmonye9888]

Awesome review Joel.

[@infinati]

Just checked out the website. It says comes with a BLTouch sensor. So much for the optical sensor?

[@CanuckCreator]

Hey joel, if your interested in another kit (albeit fully self sourced, no store available kits) you should check out the voron v2, fixed bed, moving gantry corexy printer. vorondesign.com/voron2.1

[@Sambonator]

Printing Nylon with a steel nozzle ( and esp. at high speed) will require much higher temps than usual.

[@davidhaddad5607]

I print at .15 at 120 mm a second on my Home made delta and thought that was pretty normal (parts don't even look printed), is my machine a unicorn or something ?

[@Noah_7s]

I'm thinking about getting a anet a8 and flash it should I buy it or no?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

No.

[@3dwildcat822]

This might be a little late to comment, but Robert said if your mouse can see the build plate than the optical censer can see the build plate. But my mouse is a Logitech MX Master, and it can see glass. So what are you telling me?

[@oscaranderson1822]

May have that one for my first printer. Will p a llet pro work on it. Cool

[@TheMidnightSmith]

Either you or Sean +1 for Rick and Morty true level. I was laughing for a solid 3 min! Now I have to decide between this and a resin printer in February lol. I tried finding info on this tool changer, but as far as I can see it allows swapping of heads?

[@lasersandlayers]

TheMidnightSmith I put it in there, but then later Joel mentioned it when they wrapped up talking about the bed leveling (and i took it out to avoid redundancy). So, really, both of us!

[@mostlymissiles]

e3d-online.com/blog/2018/08/20/e3d-tool-changer-and-motion-system-beta-30-incoming/

[@TheMidnightSmith]

@@lasersandlayers you guys are epic! I love it!

[@LegendaryErebus]

Can you review the Biqu Thunder 3d printer.

[@BenSilber]

Seems like they already took this into account - the kit / preassembled now has a BLTouch sensor

[@xnachowarriorx]

Where might one find a recording of that live stream that Robert did?

[@MrEvanmartinez]

This. . . This is what I'm buying. . . This. . . This is the ultimate.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

It’s truly good stuff

[@MrEvanmartinez]

@@3DPrintingNerd 6th 3D printer in my arsenal, it will be used VERY much. . . Once I get one

[@mikeneron]

Hope to see more printers like this with actual bed leveling (tramming) instead of compensating by adjusting the Z offset as it prints. Looking forward to more videos on this once you get things dialed in.

[@tonyakens8228]

Check out my youtube channel, I try to do videos with mine on a semi-regular basis.

[@JasonZnack]

Yes tramming is great, but you can't level out a bent bed or sagging rods. Compensation is a solution to some problems, but not all.

[@darkshadowsx5949]

retraction should stop your stringing problem.. idk why you think you only need it for the chainmail. it strings because you still have a small bit of pressure in the hot end and the plastic leaks out as it moves creating the string effect. retraction should eliminate that by retracting the filament. if your worried about it slowing down the print raise the retraction speed. this is pretty much the machine i've had in design software just never got around to building. the duet expansion board is something to look into. as i wanted a duet wifi for years now.

[@willierants5880]

Great review, the kit looks amazing in so many ways. I think your points good and bad are spot on. I don't think this kit is for me until it matures and has stronger support. I'm not into the "tinker" category. I just want to design and print things, but I do desire the layer detail. I'd be totally all in for a resin printer if it weren't for the whole, toxic, smelly, messy bit. So this printer is really exciting from that perspective and I'll be keeping an eye on it. But I think this printer represents a step in the right direction to bring us greater detail and accuracy at ever faster speeds.

[@ericfletcher8454]

You dont really have to "Tinker" with this printer, it works straightaway

[@tonyakens8228]

Come join our Facebook group and check it out in more detail. There are 80 or so "in the wild" - it's just the kits that are newer.

[@willierants5880]

@@tonyakens8228 I'll just have to do that. Thanks for the kind responses.

[@stevenlondon7210]

This looks like the NEXT evolution of the Big Box Dual Pro.

[@ronsouther]

Excellent review!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thank you!

[@budgetten6161]

is FlashForge Creator Pro 3D Printer good for beginners???

[@James-mahal]

i brought a cheap flsun cube printer to harvest for parts for £250 off amazon, even that had injection molded parts all ready placed brass incerts, for the price of the kits a small cnc could be easily made for moulds to do a diy solution to diy injection moulding or make the the aluminum parts kit thats $205 which could be easily done while keeping the price of the kits lower......but i think thats just coming from a tinkier who would probably make his own diy version for for cheaper btw i understand with all the parts, r&d,qc testing and sourcing of parts, from a ' buying from a company as one of the best kits' scenario goes, the price is understandable

[@MeditationOasis_BaGRoS]

Can you give me link to this vase? Is perfect for my candies

[@loukask.9111]

wow does this printer have any downsides/cons ???

[@mattat3847]

It’s hard as hell to assemble

[@tonyakens8228]

It takes time to assemble, but most haven't found it difficult. It does take attention to detail. The more precisely you align it, the better your results. But all of those things are able to be improved and tweaked post build, too. There are a few brave folks who've built them as their very first printer and done so successfully.

[@loukask.9111]

@@tonyakens8228so still no downsides, right? :D

[@tonyakens8228]

@@loukask.9111 Well, I'm biased, since I'm one of the designers. :)

[@loukask.9111]

​@@tonyakens8228Well, good to know. Also, you're a genius! Congrats! This -to me at least- looks like the perfect printer. Seriously, this leveling technique is awesome as well as everything else. The leveling works with this optical sensor which then controls these threaded rods right?

[@matthewprince6157]

So I guess the Tronxy is just chopped liver then?

[@Mehecanogeesir]

Has anyone here purchased this and can let me know when and their experience? It seems they've added the bl touch and other improvements and I'm curious

[@xnachowarriorx]

if you check the website, it says "BL TOUCH" In bold.

[@Mehecanogeesir]

@@xnachowarriorx Chill salty nacho, just wanted to know if people had a good experience with it/ if it actually improves the performance of the printer

[@kevinm3751]

I am sold! This is the machine I have been waiting and looking for since I first got started. My only question and maybe you asked but is an option to purchase the more ecnomice version and have the ability to upgrade it later down the road?

[@tonyakens8228]

There's no budget kit version, but the bill of materials is published, as is the build guide. So you can source your own parts to save money. (It's a lot more leg work and potential headache, though). Many of us self-sourced our own before the kits were available.

[@kevinm3751]

@@tonyakens8228 Thanks for the info Tony, yea I am still on the hunt for the build guide. It is either not where I would expect to find it or hidden somewhere and I am just missing it. I would rather source my own parts so I can upgrade or save a buck where I fell I can. Disregard, I found them and I see you are one of the creators so let me thank you personally for all your hard work on this project!

[@tonyakens8228]

@@kevinm3751 The link to the build guide is in the table, under the "300ZL" column. Here's the direct link, though: docs.google.com/document/d/19FuTYfwqgOkGO8SUScnSuhS_Gx8mJMmXLiPgBfGeJ-s/edit#

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Wait. You’re reviewing a 3D printer kit you didn’t put together? That’s half the fun !

[@ProjectR3DJoe]

You can check out the live stream on Twitch, Tony, Steve and I were on answering questions and explaining a bunch of things. Joe Project R3D

[@ChrisHarmon1]

LOVE the Rick & Morty reference!

[@overeducatedpaintersandren3073]

Thanks for the Review. It came at the perfect time - I was getting frustrated with my CR10s lack of precision - Its a great bang for the buck but I really need more accuracy for my prototyping. Did you notice Project R3d upgraded all the kits this week to the BLtouch probe? Probably as a result of your awesome review. After seeing that they fixed one of your few issues with the kit - I knew we had a winner- I ordered the 300ZLT with the Mosquito Magnum upgrade... go big or go home... speaking of big... you have some big gaps that you forgot to paint at the top of your wall...IF you need my paint discount at Sherwin Williams - I am happy to help you out. :)

[@Nicholas-rm2gp]

How did you go with this printer? I'm considering this as a 1st, but not sure if I have the time to learn how to tweak it.

[@ozgur-butu]

What is the stepper driver?

[@dontknowler]

Sorry, did not quite get it: is the double-heigth variant just another variant of the reviewed kit printer, or is it a different model? If a different model, what are the technical differences, except for the Z-axis length? Thanks.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The double height variant is this, but with double Z.

[@dontknowler]

@@3DPrintingNerd : Thanks! So no mechanical table adjustment for the double-height variant, if I understood you correctly? :-(

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Not that I know of - I would contact Railcore Labs and Project R3D to be sure

[@ericfletcher8454]

Same as this just taller, nothing else changes

[@tonyakens8228]

The taller one will include a couple more upgraded components in the kit (aluminum brackets and yokes) that will help stabilize the taller Z axis even more.