Build your own 3D Printer: Which hotend to pick!

I cut open my very first hotend for this one.
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[@colsoyeti1]

Hi Tom, 4 years on and this video is still a great source for anyone new to 3d printing. I found it useful for planning my hotend upgrades.

[@TitanOne1337]

"Other than self-confidence" The line that made my day :D

[@mrblue2715]

Dennis Bondar +1

[@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel489]

omg he made a joke better make a conversation about it! -_____-

[@zanpekosak2383]

The reason I had to replace my keyboard. I better not drink and watch yt again....

[@emremutlu44]

That was pronounced with a straight face :D

[@ReneJurack]

That was sensual in the beginning ;)

[@octodoodle]

René Jurack yes, love your work on the dice by the way, it's really impressive!

[@williamdaniels512]

I'm 2 years late, but the song is gymnopedie no. 1 by Eric satie

[@ultrapowermae]

Well... Your videos are getting even better - more rounded, "relaxed", confident. Can't wait for the next ones.

[@ravener96]

i tried to buy a knockoff hot end, the hole wasnt drilled and it was basically a block of aluminum

[@Izmirization]

just wanted to say I am deeply appreciative of the work you do and am a patrreon to the extent I can give.

[@iMacGeekDK]

This really helped me. Looking forwards to the nex videos. Greetings from Denmark!

[@GabrielMedina23]

Hilarious beginning, the extra effort is well worth your time! Keep up the good work!

[@spikekent]

Invaluable tips and advice as always. Thanks Tom

[@jasonross1761]

5:12 I remember the first time I bottomed out my z drive. Really gives a guy confidence! Way to add a little humor to your videos. Good job! learned a lot from listening to you. Keep them coming. (Couldn't resist one last pun)

[@NolanCreate]

Informative and great video as always thumbs up on the cut away.

[@siebetemmerman333]

Thanks for your gorgeous videos, Tom!

I love the introduction, very fun :)

[@wpavelski]

Great video, thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. Hugs from Brazil.

[@UltraSpidey]

Good video, very informate. I was a little disappointed you didn't showcase the more exotic hotends like the diamond, the cyclops, chimera, kraken etc

[@bradleymorgan8223]

Voice at the beginning was smooth as anything I've ever heard..

[@ericawatts5886]

Great video :D Love the intro LOL It should also be noted that if you are a heavy printer ( like me ) with a PTFE based hotend, you will be changing the PTFE liner eventually, (seems like i end up having to change them every couple thousand hours or so)

[@ThreenaddiesRexMegistus]

Haven’t looked back since fitting a Revo Rapid V6 hotend to my Anycubic i3. It has direct drive and handles LW-PLA single wall prints without jamming. It’s also a tidy looking setup. Worth every cent for the fully loaded kit and the supplier printed a mounting to suit which saved me the hassle.

[@prongATO]

Lol at your voice-over! So awesome!

[@jaistanley]

Good info Tom. Loads of useful information packed into another great vid. Though: remember, you don't have to sit on the fence anymore. It'd be great to get your opinion on what is 'best', or at least your preference. A build-log/guide with the reasons you chose each component would be ace! I recently converted a cheap CTC printer from their generic hot end to an E3d by using the smooth chimera style heat breaks, drilling the heat bar and using the CTC thermo-couple. At first the all-metal jammed all the time until I used thermal compound between all the components, and linishing the mating surfaces to get better contact. That solved all issues and now I can print all sorts of different temp materials. Your video doesn't mention the importance of a very sharp thermal gradient at the transition zone for preventing jams... Am I correct? Jai

[@btodoroff]

Great video! Learned a ton from it.

[@MisterMoto138]

i love my e3d v6 full metal one.

[@jeffwilliams1598]

Can't play this video on my tablet. Keeps stating, "click to retry". Just viewed a couple of your recent videos on the same tablet. I can still go back and view those. Thanks again for all you do. You are the most knowledgeable source I have found on 3D printing.

[@MrDenGreasy]

same here

[@MrDenGreasy]

+Thomas Sanladerer it Works now looking forward to it!

[@jeffwilliams1598]

+Thomas Sanladerer Yes. It is working now.

[@jai_v]

great video mate !

[@SeniorTentacles]

Funny enough my new hot end is sitting at home right now waiting to be installed when I get off work. perfect timing.

[@baspro75]

Hi Tom, thanks for your great efforts in making things sound simpler and easy to understand. Could you please review the diamond multicolor hot end as well please?

[@leedove7255]

Thanks, great video.

[@lyonidaspay]

I was waiting for this video

[@TinaWiman]

Great info! Thanx!

[@jdnva]

awesome vid/job thanks!

[@e9757gfk]

the beginning was really poetic :)

[@thundexx1]

thanks for the video

[@iamporto]

Totally approve of the puns and 3d knowledge.

[@deltajegga]

hey +Thomas Sanladerer can you do a review of the palette by mosaic? im curious to see if its worth the money.

[@jimmysgameclips]

Crikey, you know your stuff! Only thing to add is using PTFE liners for flexible filament I think

[@stylesoftware]

Nice vid, your blue E3D fan shroud is upside down and pressing against the block, mine melted that way also ;)

[@MAcDaTHo]

lol, cool introduction, XD it was so harmonic, suddenly there was a cup of coffee, an injurance guy and a unicorn in my room!

[@pwave123]

Nice video, I would like to see an updated video about extruders.

[@Javii96]

We need an updated one!!

[@jlnrdeep]

This needs a 2022 update adding the newest hotends in the market like the Revo and the Rapido.

[@TimoBirnschein]

A dedicated video about hotend insulation based on your experience would be very nice to watch!

[@Cheddar-420]

What a trip back in time lol

[@dr07828]

I purchased an e3D clone of a v6 hot end. I didn't pay a lot for it, and it worked just fine at first. It got a bit unpredictable at times. I had an issue where I would have to pull the filament each time before a print, and chop semi melted end off to get it to print. I ended up buying an original e3d heat break that was all metal and I haven't had the issue since. The funny part is the price I paid for the clone and the heat break, for a few more dollars I could have got an original one.... But it prints like a champ now.

[@ianide2480]

Look at this "it's completely unusable"... Why?

[@JaredEldredge]

yeah, i'd like tom to go into what made that hotend unusable as well.

[@KiR_3d]

maybe it wasn't able to srew-on the radiator part to the necessary distance? Not sure. I agree, Jared, if you trying to complaint, you ought to tell it in details and not showing like "meh... you must know the difference, right?" :)

[@plasmaguy5]

very cool stuff

[@ThunderPantz01]

Hey Tom, How come you did not include any of the direct drives like the Mk8 etc? Great channel, thanks for your awesome work!

[@ChunkySteveo]

haha - I thought the start was an advert, was looking for the skip button?!! :)

[@dankie44]

love the classy intro

[@MarshallMcFarlin]

Ha Ha!!!! 5:08. Tom said a short hot end will have issues in self confidence. Lol!!!

[@avejst]

Wow, thanks for sharing :-)

[@Freek_DJI]

Yeah, that shirt is great

[@macelius]

Need more intros like this in Your videos tom.

[@philippe9625]

Dat sexy voice in the intro... loved it

[@radiorob007]

Hi Tom, I have also a E3D V6 that at the beginning nevertheless still stalled (with all/massive metal heat break) I think there was a burr in the heatbreak. I now have two printers that were I experimenter wih. I still bought a few hotends from Ebay one of them it still does well;-) (there's Teflon in in this one!) and still The most trouble I have with the all/massive metal heat break! small areas no problem but print large surfaces still the printer jams I still have to do some experimenting with cooling perhaps, what I'm going to do! 3D printing, I think it still is quite difficult to do!!! very happy to say that I sometimes(now and then) succeed! ;-) good luck with making videos Friendly greetings from the Netherlands Rob.

[@scottwillis5434]

I have seen two suggestions v 1. Filament retract down to 1mm, so sticky melted plastic is not pulled up into the heat break. 2. Slow reprime speed 20mm/sec

[@EmilyTestAccount]

4 years later, the E3D V6 is still going strong

[@spamcan9208]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[@VladOnEarth]

Speaking of clones. Original V6 last time I checked was $70-$100, which is beyond ridiculous for what it is. If they set a fair price they could get much more business, but for me, throwing a $100 for each hotend is a thinkless waste of money. For example "original" heatsink costs around $20, Chinese is $2 and they are absolutely identical. You don't need original for that, at all and overpay so much. the only parts that actually need to be of high quality is nozzles and the heatbreak, but again, they can be purchased elsewhere for a fair price.

[@naughtyhorses]

And how many hotends have the Chinese actually designed? As opposed to waiting for e3d to work out the engineering and then copy it? End result? e3d go out of business. No more innovation. Also you seem to have misspelled 'are absolutely identical' when you clearly meant 'look pretty much the same to my untutored eye' :-) do you know the grade of Al used in the knockoff parts? or the stainless in their equally cheap heatbreaks? what exactly is the finish on the inside of that cheap heatbreak? How accurate was the lathe, how sharp the tool... or the operator for that matter? I would have though that 90% of why anyone was into 3d printing would be about innovation, and innovation costs, and innovation on the bleeding edge costs even more! Why was my BMW more expensive than a trabant? both cars, both German.... go figure.

[@IvanGreguricOrtolan]

Probably it's true, you will not get the exact quality but OP is right, 70€ for a metal tube is just ridiculous and imho the creators developed a good product and now are just riding the money wave.

[@friendzone2092]

@@naughtyhorses I don't count making a huge heater block with horrific oozing issues as innovation

[@naughtyhorses]

@@friendzone2092 so stick with your Chinese designed kit then...oh hang on a minute

[@friendzone2092]

@@naughtyhorses My friend's Triangle Labs V6 "clone" has worked just as well as my genuine V6 directly from E3D. The only way I can see e3d improving their design further would be to make it more compact and find a better design for the transition zone.

[@geeklany]

+Sanladerer Danke für den Video, endlich mal eine gute Vergleich :)

[@scottbroady7640]

good info for the starters I bought a cheap all metal hotend in the beginning and tried to print pla with it I still can't get it to work pla. I haven't tried abs yet though

[@johnryoce]

Why you used Satie Gymnopedies. i love this piece

[@stylesoftware]

Just like to confirm for your viewers, the aliexpress E3D is flawed, constant jams with PETG, a jam at the 2 hour mark with PLA, every time!. Changing temp and retraction made no diff. Required full disassembly for unjamming - nice. I pulled it apart, there is a manufacturing void wider than 2mm above the transition zone that prevents you even pulling out jammed filament, the all-metal height is way above the transition zone causing retraction to stick to the metal (I guess). An M4 to M5 metal pipe, so you can't easily modify the setup. I drilled the heck out of the heatsink (M5) and heat pressed some rounded M4 nuts. Screwed in the usual M4 heat pipe (not sure of its technical name?) with metal the end towards heat block and teflon end inside the heatsink. It now works like a dream with PLA and PETG. Doing the PLA at 150 speed, PETG at 100 - still tuning for higher :-)

[@shrimperlincs3395]

It's been 6 years. Please can you do a reboot?

[@rodsnyder6020]

Awesome Intro ^^

[@VaultBoi101]

tom where did you get that frame :O

[@MattRockbell]

Hello! IF I want to change the extruder of my Anet A8 which is indicated to have the best impressions? Maybe a link on Amazon. Many thanks!

[@christophergrove4876]

I have a dream of building a DEDICATED polycarbonate printer. (Enclosed, Insulated Hypercube) It would have to have an all-metal hotend. But even the bowden tube and locking mechanisms would have to be heat resistant.

[@wubbo73]

Hi Tom, do you have any experience with the nozzle used in the Geeetech Giantarm D200 print. For some reason i have to print PLA at 230gr to get a good result and abs 250gr but at a slow speed.

[@4566670]

hi thomas, can you make a video review on the COLLIDEOSCOPE MULTIPLEXING HOT END and Diamond hot end please. thanx & regards

[@Cervan]

i wonder if anyone else recognized the piano as Gyumnopedies Dai 1 Ban. nice choice.

[@Stabington]

👍 for Gymnopédie

[@deltajegga]

just get an E3D v6. iv had one for a year and only got ONE clogg (my fault, i forgot to put on a filter.)

[@bitsurfer0101]

What kind of extruder cog would you recommend for a flexible filament? I plan on sticking to the same diameter, but am unsure of the curvature needed to grip the flexible filament.

[@hansdegroot652]

Oh boy. I just got my first 3.50 euro hotend and the spare is on it's way. Now I am worried :-) But hey. 3.5 with shipping and a fan on it. It realy looks solid enough.When thing go wrong I usually learn the most.

[@TheScrappingJeahaha]

I bought a E3D V6 Clone, it was around 7 Bucks with all the exteriour parts as fan hater and thermistor and PTFE tubing and fittings, disassembled it and didn't find any downsides, will buy a real one too to support the company but in the moment I have to keep this hobby on a budget

[@ImmenseFox]

TheScrappingJeahaha Hey do you mind linking me the one you bought with all parts? 😊

[@C-M-E]

Taken into consideration that this is 4 years old as of this writing and my mechanical/engineering knowledge of 3d printer hot ends is rather limited, but is there a reason no one uses a graphite liner instead of Teflon? Being exceptionally slippery and nearly heat proof, the only downside I can think of is its relatively brittle nature. I'm sure someone could figure out how to drill out an inserted rod though.

[@YouTubestopsharingmyrealname]

Boy how things have changed in 6 years.

[@EnergySeeker]

nice video what hotend can i use in my Anyquibic Delta Predator printer i want to be able to do 400 degrees which one you recommend ?

[@removed7125]

I've never had a problem with a $12 e3D v6 lite clone. 6 months in and the only thing i've had to replace is the heater cartridge, because I twisted the hot end during a print and the wires shorted. Not so much as a jam has happened. The only thing I don't like is that it's a different size, so no already made designs really fit it, so i'm on my own trying to figure out how to active cool it

[@RobertsKristins]

Yes, but in the clone transition zone tube hole is straight, but originally is conical.

[@Jonnay0808]

Is it better to have a extruder throat with a larger diameter going into the hot end or a smaller one?

[@buildthis2324]

What is that super slim V6 looking one, black, about 9 from the right on the screen, that has a reddish sock of some sort on it?

[@ThuanNguyen-ey4rz]

Hi Tom. With diamond nozzle, which hotend is good for

[@nakajimakuro]

Me with Dragon HF and Rapido in 2024: Interesting!

[@Calxx]

I have to disagree with the Chinese Hotends. My first 3d printer, which is a delta, consists of almost all Chinese cheap parts. (Only the 1515 alum frame and the heated bed was from local suppliers). Assembly went fine and it prints very well. The Chinese E3D-v6 i got was like almost 4 times cheaper than the one I would have to pay If I buy it from the local 3d Printer shop. (Excluding tax)

[@brandonfesser1893]

+Calxx Try non-Chinese parts, and see if you still think yours "prints very well." Even if they are cheaper, I'd rather pay full price and send money to E3D for research than to some clowns in China who just make knockoffs and contribute nothing to the community.

[@Calxx]

+Brandon Fesser Interestingly the prints are very much on par with the ones printed by a friend, who purchased the full kit (the whole printer) from local 3D printer supplier. The main reason I decided to bet on Chinese parts is the price. So, for people without deep pockets, the Chinese Hotends can be a really cheap and useful start. You can safely experiment with it without fearing you'll break something expensive.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

Brandon Fesser surely Chinese firms do bring something to the community? Generic knock offs with similar performance characteristics as the real thing. Yes QA is questionable but they still bring something to the community and enable many who cannot afford to own a 3D printer built using high priced parts designed in the US or UK. Embiggening the community as a whole and bringing folk into the hobby, and that's the biggest contribution. They help create the 3D printing community.

[@vectraB97]

Brandon Fesser I've seen creality ender-2 3dbenchies that are real good quality.. I've printed several myself. My ender-2 makes impressive 3dbenchies that are only 17mm tall. I'm only a beginner who pick random settings in cura.

[@Phil-D83]

Generally an e3d v6 all metal design (original or clone) is your best bet.

[@ficklecycler]

The magic was reverse camera right? Or is your next vid on sorcery?

[@franchbabu]

Hey, How to install e3d v6 /hotend in a 3D printer?? thanks

[@bzeuf]

Beautiful Itopie :-) I have make a frame of Itopie by jigsaw and the result is, Printing very good. Y like this printer so much because its very simple to assembly ;-)

[@4566670]

can prusa multi-material upgrade kit be installed on other 3d printers ?

[@VaultBoi101]

have you tried the flexion extruder?

[@DrexisEbon]

If large scale, the e3d supervolcano or a filament extruder - that turns pellets into filament. If small scale... there's too many options to suggest one. Depends what you're printing material is and exactly what scale you're working on.

[@RalphV]

I dont see the issues people get with small nozzles. I use a knockoff e3d v6 lite, with knockoff 0.2mm nozzle. The clone has worked great for like 8 months, outlived two of my printers. All I did was replace the thermistor and heater cartridge. $1 0.2mm and $1 0.8mm nozzle all work great. Ive done 0.5mm and 0.06mm layer heights, fun stuff.

[@benjbernstein1760]

Nice video. I have a Lulzbot Taz3. The hotend just stopped working. Any idea where I can find a replacement for that? It looks like Lulzbot has gone out of business. I'm assuming it's the hot end that is the problem, the bed still heats up, I put a heat gun on the nozzle and the temperature goes up too. Not sure what else to check to confirm the problem.

[@dunichtich100]

Kannst du bitte ein review über das Geeetech "2 in 1 out Hotend" ?^^

[@ym30214]

Does the Cr10S Pro hotend (in the area of the cooling fins) actually have the same diameter as a standard E3D V6 Hotend?

[@PatrickCham_TheChameister]

I love the fact that this is a Build Tutorial and you chose a Minecraft BGM.

[@danielskjeveland7739]

recommended

[@cyberblade6669]

is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving

[@elmariachi5133]

This video didn"t go into detail enough, for actually understanding what you are saying, It was very superficial, and most questions remains.

[@shaolinXtreme]

like he said "this is completely unusable" ...but doesn't explain why its unusable..

[@scrubngbubles]

excellent music, sounded like Minecraft. excellent video as well :)

[@brandonhowes5364]

I used TL clone for 2 years without any issues, but finally I could afford a genuine V6, now my clone will end up on my other printer

[@karandex]

I think just buying the ss part from e3d and other from china can be a good way to save money if you want more than 1