Railing to Easing to a Turn

[@bobmartin6055]

I don’t know of any other channel that covers stair railings in the detail you do!! Always a pleasure watching your videos!

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Bob. I'm glad you find them enjoyable. Cheers, Scott

[@paul-akers]

Mind-boggling, the best woodworking instructional video I’ve ever watched

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Wow Paul. That's quite a compliment. Thank you so much for your ongoing support and encouragement. Sincerely, Scott

[@searchingforaway8494]

Wow!! Those tools!! AMAZING! Definitely makes the job easier having the right tools! Along with the incredible skills you have lol Great video...

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you! I appreciate your comments and encouragement. Keeps me going! Scott

[@paulmawdsley2027]

Interesting. You have shown me something I've never seen before. I've been doing stair and rail renovations since 2007. I've pulled apart a lot of railings, modified quite a number and built many from scratch. I have never come across this method of connection. I agree with another commenter, not a lot of quality videos on stairs and rails on KZbin. Definitely interested in seeing more of your videos. Subscribed. Thanks, Paul.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Paul! You never stop learning in this trade (if you keep your eyes and ears open). I've learned a lot just by reading the comments on my channel. Thanks for subscribing and commenting. I'm encouraged. Cheers, Scott

[@andrewfox7331]

Thanks for your help and advice 😊

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you so much Andrew!

[@keithfountain881]

Incredible craftsmanship! Love your work

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Keith! Very encouraging. Happy Easter, Scott

[@1Skiing691]

Amazing video! I'm about to tackle my own railing but haven't done much with easings before. This video is just what I needed, super informative, I'm feeling much better about doing it now haha Thanks for this!

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

You're welcome. Yes if you haven't done it before it's a daunting task. Glad it was helpful and hope you explore the channel some more. Cheers, Scott

[@hollylalos5188]

I gotta ask. At minute 7:36, you have that wood pitch block underneath the easing. Is that cut at 45 or is that also cut to the rise and run of the steps like your particle board pitch block?

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

That is a random piece of scrap that seemed to work for the curve of the easing. So not cut specifically - but it would seem very close to the pitch... If you were to cut a wedge here to the correct pitch that would not be a bad thing. Thank you for your question Holly. Cheers, Scott

[@joelyoung8006]

Gotta agree with the other comments. This is the only channel I can find that explains fittings. It would be very awesome to post more info about fittings.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Joel, I will look for more jobs that have fittings to fit this need. I appreciate your comment. Cheers, Scott

[@j.d.1488]

Awesome channel. Very cool. Always wanted to do stair rails. Pretty nice method.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you JD. Glad you like the channel. Welcome, Scott

[@benleaper6451]

Thats gonna be a nice railing. Never seen that kind of magnetic connection method. Really cool.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Ben. More videos to come on that project. Thank you for the comment, Scott

[@duaynenaugle561]

I like the idea of the lamello invis as it keeps the joinery at the top of the rail as opposed to traditional rail bolts which are located closer to the bottom of the rail. Eventually you will have a spindle that will be drilled directly into that hole. The Invis avoids this. Would love to buy one but I plan on retiring soon

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Duayne. Yes you are right. I've had a baluster connecting right at the joint and encountered that issue. The Lamello Invis is worth it if you are building balustrades that is for sure. Enjoy your retirement! Cheers, Scott

[@andrewfox7331]

Hello Scott, I have a question now that I have fitted my newel posts with your help.) I plan to use a downward easing (the exact opposite of what you have in this video) to change handrail angle from horizontal (from a newel post that is set a foot or so back into a landing) to the correct rake angle of the stairs. I'm trying to understand, if I can, how to use a pitch block to get an exact cut line. I can sort of see about where to cut by using the stringer as a guide but I know the cut needs to be precise. Once I hopefully have that solved, is there any reason not to make the cut with the piece flat on the saw - rather than the careful (and impressive) jig work that you have used? Thanks for all your videos!

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you Andrew. I would say that the best way for me to answer this is by looking at your project perhaps with a FaceTime call. I've done this in the past. Reach out to my via my website and send me an email and we can go from there. www.scottearlsmith.com Cheers, Scott

[@passerina-m5j]

Thanks. That was a great help!

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Glad to hear that! Thank you for commenting, Scott

[@paullasko2023]

So I picked up the Invis and find that the drill bit and the metal guide bushing get really hot drilling in white oak. In the process of installing 3 element/stud pairs the drill bit has turned blue which is never a good sign. I've cleared chips as I progress through the drilling process. It's a real struggle to get it to cut through the material which requires pressure which generates more heat. Have you encountered any of this? The system works great aside from the bit most likely having lost its temper.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Hi Paul, I have never used my Invis on white oak. Only red. I did notice heat when I first used the bit and I believe there is some break-in process required. I use a silicone spray on my bit regularly. And I plunge in-and-out with the bit as I go. If your bit is shot then you should contact the supplier. I am going to do a review on the Invis at some point and I will be making suggestions. I do think it's a good piece of equipment but I believe some improvements are in order. I had a really good relationship with the Canadian Lamello rep but he has since retired. It might be worthwhile finding out who the rep is for your region and reaching out to them. Regards, Scott

[@MichaelValichka]

One other quick question? When you measured the step and rise, it appears you measured the nosing of the step also. Did you subtract that measurement from the overall step? Thanks again.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@MichaelValichka Yes. Absolutely. I think there’s a place in the video where I use the combination square to measure the depth of the nosing overhang. That is subtracted from the tread width. Cheers, Scott

[@EveryOtherDayWoodWor]

Thank you

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@EveryOtherDayWoodWor you’re welcome.

[@neshco]

What amazing job there...This connections are revolutionary, looks amazing, clean and beautifull. Thing that I want to ask is about this handrail "elbow" elements. Did you made it yourself or there is a producer that sell it in different radiuses, swing sides etc? I am in the process of the renovation of the stairs and have a lot of problem to find acceptable system for amateur like me. Is there such a thing like a producer that make fittings that can be combined to make proper swinging without carving etc?

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you for the compliment! The fittings, including the "elbow," were purchased from a local supplier. But they are made by a company called Coffman Stair Parts. Here is the link to their website. www.wm-coffman.com Hope this helps, Scott

[@neshco]

@@scottearlsmithFTC thank you! Yes, it does help a lot, those fittings are just what I am looking for, only problem here as I can see is the transport. And if supplier send it to Norway :) Thank you for info and keep up such a nice work 🧡

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@neshco There must be a supplier in your part of the world that sells railing products. Good luck with your search, Scott

[@handysolutionsrenovation416]

Thank you for the great video

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thank you so much. Very encouraging. Cheers, Scott

[@MichaelValichka]

That block you put under the easing for support while cutting. Is that the same angle as the stair tread also? TY

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@MichaelValichka It’s very close. It happens to be a random scrap I had in the shop not cut specific for that purpose. But for sure that would work as well or better if it was the same angle. Thx Scott

[@MichaelValichka]

@@scottearlsmithFTC TY

[@PedroRodrigues-hy7yp]

What is the name of the tools you use? so I can buy it to make it easier

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Lamelo Invis is the magnetic joiner. www.lamello.com Cheers, Scott

[@cjsawinski]

11:10… I have that same Irwin square, but mines wayyyy out of square. Should have returned it but never did, I tried using it for about half hour before I got frustrated and finally thought to check the square. Full 1/16 out over the full length of the blade.

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Wow! I will take a look at it. Scary. Thanks for letting me know. Scott

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

By the way, I just checked mine on my framing square. Looks very close. How did you determine yours was out of square? And what kind of square do you use now? thx Scott

[@cjsawinski]

@@scottearlsmithFTC to check a square (any square), put it on a board or scrap plywood (that has one straight edge at least). Put the heel of the square on the straight edge like you were just doing layout. Preferably use a razer blade or marking knife instead of a pencil to mark the board using the square. Then flip the square over and put it to your scribe line… if it matches the scribe you made then it’s nice and square, if it doesn’t match the original line then you’ll see that it doesn’t follow the original mark. When I did this mine didn’t follow it by more than a sixteenth of an inch and was easy to see right away.

[@cjsawinski]

@@scottearlsmithFTC and I haven’t gotten a new “engineering square” to replace it, I just use other general squares that I know and trust because I’ve checked them… I’ve also made a few of my own for clamping and general purposes on my table saw sled. After you have a table saw sled built and dialed in there’s an easy process to make your own right angle squares that with be very very accurate (as long as your sled is accurate).

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@cjsawinski Thank you for this info. I have a friend who sells collector item squares (planes, chisels etc) so if I decide to buy an old-school square with the wood handle etc I will make sure it's square. I've resisted the temptation to start buying Woodpecker (or similar high-end marking stuff) but if your hardware store square is not square - you've got a problem. I'd also like to upgrade my levels to Starrett's. My Dewalt levels read different if you flip them end for end.

[@scottwilson4347]

I use hot glue a lot & it don’t like to stick to metal or any slick surfaces..if you sand your melamine down to get it, passed the slick surface. It would work better or just use piece of plywood. I’ve tried to use it to put faces on drawer boxes and when I try to pull the drawer out with the face to add screws inside to secure it, the face pops off a lot because the drawer box is slick..hot glue works best on wood to wood surfaces

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Thanks Scott. Yes I've noticed that too. Wood to wood holds very well. Thanks for the tip. I appreciate the comment, Scott

[@lavelleteal-mw3ep]

hi scott its your granddanger lavelle. great video not just because i am in it lol

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

Hahaha! Good comment Lavelle! Love you so much. Love Papa (Share with your friends!)

[@lavelleteal-mw3ep]

@@scottearlsmithFTC thanks

[@lavelleteal-mw3ep]

I would love too do another video with you

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

I would love that Lavelle! Anytime. Love Papa

[@lavelleteal-mw3ep]

@@scottearlsmithFTC yay

[@scottearlsmithFTC]

@@lavelleteal-mw3ep Looking forward to it.