Building a Fireproof Safe (pt. 1 of 2)

[@obsgr1]

Justin, I hope you come back soon with some more interesting content. I hope the farm life hasn't taken you away from being an amazing content creator and engineer. Really want to see where you get to with the RV, or what your wife has designed that you have milled out of wood or steel. I'm sure there's a bunch of subscribers out there that miss your content.

[@ciscojbone5429]

Yes, I miss him too. Great content. Hope all is well.

[@9009matorres]

Was thinking the same, but if you look at his videos, he does take extended breaks every now and then. Hope all is well!

[@calebclemente8032]

000000

[@MTTRANSPORTTX]

Yea I just came to his page myself to make sure I haven't missed a video or that I was unsubscribed for some reason. that has happened to me in the past on another channel I enjoy.

[@901D]

what happned to him? he is offline almost 6month and his insta links is dead.

[@cmbmx8343]

Hope your videos come back soon, miss watching them I've watched all your videos more than once

[@TRFerron]

Having both an engineering and security background some thoughts: - engineering is good, but you could have decoupled the metal on the outside from the inside. See how modern windows are made. So no thermal transfer occurs, or at least not so much. - maybe add some tabs or a way to secure the safe to the ground (if you don't weld it somewhere to the ground) Now to the main problem... - the main reason most of the cheap fireproof safes fail to do their job is not fire proofness - its water proofness. Normally the fire dept. arrives in under 30 minutes so a 60 minute fire proofness is more than enough. But the fire dept. uses mainly water to extinguish fire. Pouring it on for hours. So the documents and most valuables which don't like water are destroyed AFTER the fire by soaking for hours in water. Added later: At least we now could get Part II - making the fireproof safe waterproof ! :)

[@delucain]

Would a gasket solve this problem? Maybe packing a fiberglass rope soaked in high temp grease around the ingress points of the handle and lock?

[@kschleic9053]

Agreed, Waterproof storage containers within any fire safe are a must. The overlap of waterproofing gasket materials and high temperature resistance is pretty small.

[@robertrusso877]

Being an engineer, do you have a solution for waterproofing? I’m guessing rubber seals would melt. Is there another product out there that could be used? Thanks

[@TRFerron]

@@robertrusso877 melting is ok ;) it seals even better. There are many silicone gaskets which will be happy to meet the requirements even with the safe starting to glow red.

[@TRFerron]

@@kschleic9053 in fact it is not so easy . If you read instructions on good fireproof safes (the ones for documet use aka paper) they specifically tell you not to put plastic sheets in them. The plastic melts before paper gets dark from temperature. Then the documents are also done..

[@michaelrybak4189]

When the linkage came together, it was simply beautiful. Well done.

[@charickter]

Indeed. That mechanical activation was really sweet.

[@hipairbrush1053]

Tip: put lipstick on the end of the locking pins to mark where to drill your holes. Great build any way you slice it. I would've drilled holes in the bottom so it can be bolted to the floor. They will often take the whole safe and leave.

[@m.f.m.67]

Yep, definitely have to bolt a small safe to the floor. Anything under about 500 lbs, or so, two strong thieves can lever into the back of a truck and drive off. Cut it open later.

[@wrenchdoozer]

A new Rainfall Projects video is a great way to start the day. Thanks.

[@tfildaed]

Having watched for years and knowing your abilities, skills, tools and ingenuity, I'm still amazed at how easy you made that look! Well done! Kudos to your photographer too!

[@CheveeDodd]

It's always a good day when there's a new Rainfall Project. It's especially serendipitous today as it's raining and dreary here. Excellent work!

[@GoodLuckLive]

In Cape Town too! Perfect for stormy weather 👌

[@Atila643]

Guyz white material is ceramic blanket? What is it?

[@AndyCollier]

Are you going to add fire rope or something as a fireproof gasket on the door?

[@calholli]

Yeah. also to keep the smoke out. Even if you keep the fire out, all that smoke still usually ruins everything.

[@kendallwhitlatch9603]

I was thinking you could use an oven door gasket from a large oven, or possibly buy the exact length you need from an appliance repair supplier.

[@Lucas12v]

I think there's a type of gasket made just for safes that expands with heat. Could be wrong but i remember someone telling me that.

[@jasonlazore497]

Good point. Possibly the door gasket for fireplaces would be a good option as they are exposed to extreme heat or the gasket for a kiln would work.

[@jaypeeters]

When you where drilling with the magnetic drill, made me think of those safecracker scenes in movies.

[@formerartstudent]

Would've been cool if you had made the backing plate with plexiglass so you could see the linkages. A+ project, all the same.

[@ixamraxi]

Perhaps some windows, but would have been difficult to add the shaft collar support on the backing plate if it were plexy.

[@formerartstudent]

@@ixamraxi That's a fair point.

[@percival23]

Yes. That is the most beautiful part of the safe that has lots of linkage.

[@jasonlazore497]

Glass, plexiglass or polycarbonate would be a good idea but after a certain extended period of time to extreme heat they would eventually break. Learned it from a few fire fighters.

[@formerartstudent]

@@jasonlazore497 I guess it depends on how long the safe would be subjected to the fire. Assuming they aren't too far out in the boonies, the fire department will have put out the fire before the internal temperature of the safe got too high. Glass would be the better choice, I would think, since breaking from the heat wouldn't necessarily damage anything else inside the safe. Plexi melting all over would be a mess and a half.

[@SandyWalsh]

Best quote I saw on another channel "I love working with metal ... the glue dries so quickly"

[@mrwehethefourth]

Can’t wait for the next rainfall projects video! Definitely have gone back just to make sure I didn’t miss an upload

[@aserta]

Three things in order, just observations, not critique: 1. in a fire proof safe the core is decoupled from the outer skin, can't help that now tho. 2. the handle needs to either be a weak link itself (small pin and only a small portion of the shaft going out) or a weak link inside, otherwise it can be used against the mechanism 3. fireproof safes fail for the most unlikely reasons, which is when the fire department arrives, their concern is to stop the fire, not save your property (or better expressed, they're not specific about what's saved, they're specific about being safe whilst stopping the fire, saving lives being their biggest concern, theirs and that of the potential victims), so it needs to be water proofed, which means you need a gasket, which itself needs to be fire proof and water proof (yup, tall order). Source: i used to work with a safe company's engineer, learnt a few things from him.

[@StanislavG.]

Regarding point no. 3 - that's actually pretty easy. You can get RTV Silicone gaskets pretty cheaply now. But it would be extremely interesting to stress test this safe. I think it might hold surprisingly well.

[@ixamraxi]

1 This is not a problem for many valuables, but if a person is storing something that needs to be shielded further, a lock box inside the safe would provide an additional layer of heat protection, as well as providing the convenience of sorting the items inside the safe, if he required even more protection he could also line the inside with ceramic plates, so while conduction is a problem, this is a problem that can still be helped. 2. This is unnecessary for this kind of personal safe, there's little sense in him making a safe that he needs to destroy to recover the valuables inside. His goal seems primarily to protect the items inside from things like fire or being misplaced, he's not trying to prevent the cast of oceans 11 from stealing what's inside. 3. This also shouldn't be a problem for most valuables. Things which are at risk of water damage can be stored inside heat resistant waterproof containers (waterproof silicone containers, for example) The point is only that these are not insurmountable problems, and most of the issues, which granted are valid concerns, can be overcome fairly readily.

[@Bfyobrian12]

“This is the Lockpicking Lawyer, and today we’re going to be taking a look at a fireproof safe built by a radish farmer.” 😂 Jk, amazing work!

[@zmyrus]

Lawyer showed how to open the safe lock in video number 1001

[@PaperTools]

@@zmyrus Yeah but that's a robot lock picker that takes 8-30 hours to open this one. My guess is radish farmer comes out with laser weapon in that amount of time: secures gold, bills and giant diamond, apprehends villain, ties to fork lift, takes to authorities since he's a pretty solid dude and doesn't seem inclined to vigilante justice. LPL did say he's skilled at these types of combo locks. I wonder how long it would take or if he would just insert a credit card behind the bolts or pull off some other kind of side attack.

[@ShamWerks]

I was looking precisely for this comment. 😂😂

[@AdrianTache]

I imagine the simplest way is just to brute force the wheel and snap off the locking part. Or, of course, just drilling it out entirely.

[@harrylime9641]

hahaha....yeah, bullet proof safe with a lock you can open in under on minute

[@daviddauphin838]

the masking tape idea is great - use some lipstick on the pins = close the door and it will mark the tape. i have used this to mark drywall for outlet boxes -works great

[@lthomas987]

I know a locksmith who uses this technique too.

[@patrickretsel7048]

Graphite will work too

[@tomwagemans1872]

So you carry a lipstick in your toolbox? They would laugh at the jobsite. Just kidding, it's a great idea.

[@threeriversforge1997]

Nice build, and I really like the door's linkage. Future Tip - when you have to locate pin locations like that, you can "soot" the ends of the pin with your torch, or a daub of your wife's lipstick, to make sure you have a clear, clean impression. If you use your wife's lipstick, make sure you don't tell her you borrowed it. Wives do not take kindly to such things. Also, the fire rating drops precipitously when you don't insulate the door or use a fire seal around the door. All that insulation on the body is for naught if you don't seal the door and insulate it every which way you can. Some 1/4" drywall/gypsum can be layered in there, making sure to get under the linkage mechanism, and some Kaowool blanket can fill the voids without worry about tangling around the mechanism. The door seals are available COTS, and help to seal things when the heat rises, but also give a more finished appearance. Without those two details, the same isn't resistant to heat/fire no matter how much insulation you put in the hollow core of the body.

[@kurtvincent3465]

Just came across your video while looking for a way to fire proof a safe I will be buying. All I can say is WOW. You knocked it out of the park! Great content that really is a tutorial on how to build a safe. Look forward to more projects you will be doing.

[@AdventureCayman]

I am a safe and vault technician. You did an outstanding job on building this safe. Everything you did was well thought out and works well, I am thoroughly impressed. You do have one fatal flaw....you didn't add any relocker device(s). If someone knocks the dial off and punches out the lock with a hammer and punch the lock will no longer prevent the bolt from staying locked. A relocker will fire a bolt blocking the boltwork from moving if the lock was attacked in this fashion.

[@biomorphic]

That safe is super easy to open. Just place a metal bar on the wheel and you'll have so much leverage that the pin on the combinator will fall apart. But, since it's in the shop maybe it's faster using the plasma cutter.

[@StevenNovak]

Incorrect! The set screw connecting the handle to the spindle will slip first. It's an intentional weak point acting as a clutch. Most safes are designed like that.

[@jimmydiresta]

now alls ya need is black and gold paint ... and it'll be Choochi👊🏻 well done

[@georgeh01]

Gotta come back and rewatch Pt 1 for the millionth time to make Pt 2 feel extra special.

[@westweld]

Really ambitious project man your a good fabricator......im a welder also and for finding your locking bolt holes locations I use this stuff called dykem high spot blue its a non drying blue die and works great for stuff like this machinists use it to find high spots between mating parts just smear it on.

[@UncleStevesWorkshop]

Something about your videos makes me feel proud to be a country boy builder. Nothing better than getting inspiration from the way you think, build, and communicate over a Saturday morning coffee. Hope all is well out there my friend 🤠

[@dropletz.]

Great Job! I do recommend to drill holes in the bottom so you can bolt it to the ground, one other suggestion it to put the door opening side in a corner so someone cant try to pry it open.

[@catalyst1011]

Been a long time since the last video! hope all is good and looking forward to seeing what you're up to!

[@Mrcaffinebean]

Very nice! Although it appears that the locking mechanism is locked by the S&G lock bar. That’s fine normally but since your handle is fairly rigid it would likely be possible to force the mechanism open with a long bar. I believe most safes deal with this by having their handle be the weak link. If any attempts to force the handle open the handle just slips in the mechanism. I’m far for an expert but hopefully someone else here can add to this comment with a suggested fix. Maybe some kind of plastic joint that would slip. I enjoyed the video, keep up the great work!

[@vfnt]

Oh, that’s what I wondered too. I feared that you could put so much stress on the mechanism by turning the wheel by force that it breaks, but I would have never thought of using a bar to my advantage. I really need to step up my robbery skills.

[@exportedafrican]

I had the same thoughts. Often they have that mechanism setup with a ratio so 100lbs of force would only transfer 10lbs to the lock handle. I would recommend welding the bolt in the center of the handle so someone can’t just grab a socket and breaker bar and get in quickly. The rounded weld would keep a socket from grabbing

[@aserta]

Yup, safe handles are either pinned with a weak nail (kinda like a shaft key) with a small diameter and a small soft metal nob sticking out, so you can't just put pliers on that should you remove the handle, or, as you said inside the safe door, there's a weak link. I saw a 1970's safe that was disabled because someone levered on the handle to get it unstuck, and the broken link was a piece of hammered copper (work hardened, which made it brittle), ingenious little thing.

[@jbomb889]

Awesome point. Given the excellent system he as already designed that would maybe be a difficult adjustment. May I suggest an options that might work well with what has already been constructed? Maybe adjust it by using a brass rod for the main shaft attached to the wheel and attaching the main internal linkage via a shallow set screw into the brass rod so that it would strip where the set screw is attached and spin inside the linkage if significant force is applied. Although there are many designs of breakaways using weak pins specifically on the external wheel. Many would still leave a solid mental shaft that could be turned with a pipe wrench or such. Ideally you would like the failure to be internal to the mechanism.

[@alexjohnward]

Yep, his unlocking mechanism looks robust enough to smash the lock with ease, the lock needed to be mounted further away from the mechanism pivot.

[@joeymahn449]

Here are a few simple and inexpensive adds ons for exponential strength and ROI: Internal clutch disk for the crank to prevent brute force attack. Right now the force transfers directly and you are vulnerable. I have bought them from safe manufacturers directly for cheap. No need to drill holes in square steel to accept locking bolts, just use a thick (1/4”+) flange and bolts lock behind it. Add a simple non-mechanical reverse flange, or even a few pins, on the door (hinge side) that automatically become a friction press fit when you close the door to thwart pry bar attacks on that side and allows you focus on top/bottom & door side locking bolts - 4 sided locking support. Finally try to double support the locking bolts on the door side, again an easy add on for for anti-pry. Add a simple Re-locker mechanism (again transfer the loads and isolate - glass, etc.). No Tupperware At All - it melts before 451F and destroys the paper! Use the thermal expansion seals everyone is talking about. Dehumidifier (and maintain it). LED lights. Hope this helps the next build and others! Rock on!

[@sportflyer]

I hate it when the music starts because it means it's nearly the end of the video... Best on the internet :)

[@srdjan361306]

Hi Justin, i hope everthing is OK . We miss you and your beautifull work.

[@xrayaiz74]

That was some really cool metal work. It's not everyday I see someone build a safe, a fireproof safe as well, from scratch! Talk about practical and useful. It's kind of eery how easy you made the process look. But, I think the process is a physical representation of the designer's logic and rationale in approaching a solution to a particular problem or design goal. Your fabrication is simple, effective and minimalist. Waste not, want not. I see now why farmers need to be self-reliant to stay operational. Excellent presentation and project build!

[@motorsonny]

your know how and skills are quite remarkable, what a vast amount of knowledge do you have for all these projects , its really insane to find such a qualitative series on youtube! Very rare. Keep up the great work ! I love how the barn looks

[@ramosel]

Nice. But, if you build another one... If you design your door and jambs right, your hinge side pins do not need to move, they can be static. They will catch when your door closes. You can then use your door fulcrums to run top and bottom pins as well as your side pins. More insulation, more insulation, more insulation.

[@justinhafner12383]

Nice to see I’m not the only welder who uses stencils 12:23

[@motzemog]

One trick I learned from a carpenter installing door locks was to use lipstick on the deadbolt when trying to figure out where things align. It leaves a visible accurate mark. Great work by the way!

[@bradwilson6601]

Some commercial safes use gypsum wall board as insulation. The water chemically bonded to the calcium sulfate absorbs a lot of energy during the heating process.

[@stevesharp256]

wont the studs for the insulation actlike a heatsink and suck in lots of outside heat?????

[@janergaard]

Very nicely built! But is it safe? Shall we say 2-3 minutes with an angle grinder to get it open?

[@quadmasta]

Grease on the ends of the bolts opened onto the jamb makes for an excellent mark

[@jpsimon206]

That linkage came out excellent! Not to be critical, but you might want to consider adding two vertical pins top and bottom. The way the safe is designed right now makes it prone to entry using a vertical bar in a prying motion. The front door potentially has the ability to fold, even just enough to clear the pins. Having a central pin top and bottom prevents this. That said, I don't suspect you are trying to build a bank grade safe, just enjoying the ability to build what you need. I think it's great how you are willing to try out so many different disciplines

[@stephen_himself]

Really cool build. Sure McNally would like to rate your lock. I can hear it now- “You are using a Homebuilt Fireproof Safe. It can be opened with a Homebuilt Fireproof Safe”

[@mjdthemaker7574]

The only thing I like about winter is that you have more time to make videos. Lol. Fantastic build.

[@martinswiney2192]

Hope you put some holes in the bottom for anchor bolts. Anchor it to concrete floor with at least 1/2” bolts in all 4 corners. Then hide your plasma cutter since thats the easiest way to get into it. Great build.

[@Guust_Flater]

Now we wait for the LockPickingLawyer video..... 😉😂🤣👍

[@CaptK-py8rq]

Very nicely done! Whenever you need to locate a hole for a slide bolt, strike plate or anything else where you can't get to it, use lipstick, it's dead-on.

[@sbarclay71]

Great video, as always... I seen that you used tape to make the impressions for your pins. Another "tool" that is great for leaving impressions is lipstick. I learned it from an old carpenter about 35 years ago and still use it for projects today. Dark colors for wood work and florescent colors for metal work.

[@FishFind3000]

16:35 I’d weld up those corners and make the gap tighter so you can’t easily get a pry bar in there.

[@metalheartmachine]

There are ceramic studs used to secure kiln insulation. Also: for the locking pins, if they have a flat taper on the side facing out, and a matching ‘D’ shape hole, they will push in when you tighten them. Good to press down on a gasket. The gasket is the same stuff used for oven doors.

[@memor5514]

dude i always skip through the sponsored segments but this one was very cool

[@ryancasey4807]

If you ever need to make a precise mark like when drilling those pins in the future, try putting a thick layer of paint on the pin and then extending it, it should leave the paint behind like a stamp would.

[@simonmags8191]

There is a boat builder that uses lipstick for transferring marks, always makes me laugh seeing it in his toolbox

[@stuart6973]

I’m a blacksmith from uk 🇬🇧 And I know skill when I see it. Great work 👍🏻

[@Sapnek]

Love the build... that's just awesome... however... I'm still waiting for that part 8 of the deck build... lol

[@Gollammeister]

Here's a thought prob a daft idea but what about installing a mesh that's highly thermal conductive so any high heat is absorbed into the mesh and Could theoretically be transferred via thermal conductive cables into a thermal heat sink maybe

[@timmymartin317]

Where you at man? I miss your content. Hope all is well.

[@williamlewis8741]

if memory serves me, my youtube experience began with your videos. the master of design and welding has 'wooed us' again. it's so humbling watching what you do. your expertise and simplicity is worthy of praise and admiration. how did you know how to construct the 'cam' mechanism so precisely? thanks for another fine instructive video. i hope you and the family are well despite covid. looking forward to the day when you announce that a 'baby farmer and/or little lad who will recite " I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree, And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made; Nine bean-rows will I have there, a hive for the honey-bee, And live alone in the bee-loud glade," as lovely as his mother's voice. cheers

[@kenc2257]

Wow. Some really precise work there, especially with the nested boxes, and the linkages for the locking mechanism. It even looks good. Great job! [now, going to scroll down, and see ALL of the suggestions that commenters have to improve on your already excellent work--I'm sure there will be dozens of comments about fireproofing, etc., etc.]

[@therocketman321]

That's a really good job! Two suggestions for you now since you already put so much effort into this thing. 1: drill a hole on the inner door skin for the change key hole; this way you can always change the combo without having to remove the inner skin every time. 2: design an external relocker. I'm not saying you need glass, but a spring fired pin into the bolt work would do the trick.

[@markbrown9765]

To find your holes for the pins in the frame; Use masking tape like you did. Then put lipstick on the face of the pin. Close the door and engage the mechanism. Believe it or not it puts a nice circle on the masking tape right where the hole needs to be. Nice safe. Really enjoy your work.

[@j.a.garcia868]

I’m watching welding videos to learn and see how things are made. I am new to welding and want to build a cabinet smoker. So I searched for a gun safe video since I knew it may be similar. I even thought of studs to hold insulation, lol. This is the same idea I had double wall with insulation in between. Great video! ✌️😎

[@johnbushur6080]

This was really cool. It would be neat to see an up close view of how the locking mechanism prevents the wheel from turning.

[@michaelosmon]

Holy cow....this is the second video of yours I've seen. Just finished watching your truck bed tool box organizer build. Your inflection in your voice has gotten much easier to listen to. Your shop has improved greatly as well. I hope you come back....your last video has like 350k views. I see you've gotten some equipment that will make you money while you're doing other things so my guess is you're just too busy but I hope you put out more videos.

[@AJMansfield1]

Very fun and practical build! Would love to see the fireproof-ness put to the test, perhaps build a big bonfire around it and see how quickly the temperature inside increases with a thermocouple.

[@robertrusso877]

It’s a great day when when a rainfall project drops! Good video as usual and I love the safe. Only thing I would’ve done differently (if it were my project) is leave the old paint on the wheel. Loved the patina and character it had - otherwise great work as usual!

[@ThatPNWGuy2024]

Lol, boots are literally out of the box. And I love the scrip voice everyone has in videos to let us know 100% they’re just reading it off. Lol.. Now at the end of the video it seems you missed a few things. No re-locker? Also, you’ll probably lock your door open a few times since you didn’t design a way for the handle to keep the lock open while it’s unlocked. In the future you could put some blue tac and sharpie on the bolts when you attempted to lock the door it would transfer the marks across to the other side. Did you fully weld the turn wheel onto the shaft? If you did that would be another issue, if someone applied enough force to the wheel to break the locking mechanism. Typically safe handles are secured in a way that they’re a point of weakness against a leverage attack. I think you’ve built a nice fire resistant lockbox. Fireproof-Safe would be a stretch. Nice work nonetheless 👍👍

[@CrosshairLunchbox]

I haven't gotten to the end, but what we do in the field for metal to metal marking is just coat it in a bunch of Sharpie. Then make you metal to metal contact. We use this to ensure tight fitment in pipeline instrumentation.

[@cardinalpoints2839]

Thanks for taking the time to film and post this. I haven't seen any of your movies in a while and I have to say I'm super impressed at your fabrication skills

[@vladseb2009]

For location the holes, you can use grease on the pins and when you close them they will leave the marks. Anyways maybe a tip for the future projects.

[@blfjr2005]

In gunsmithing we use a product called inletting black to find where parts contacting, or in your case where the locks would need to be drilled.

[@larryfisher7056]

Some wrinkle finish black paint with gold foil logo would really be the crowning touch. Missed Drake helping out in the shop this vid.

[@BigFarles]

Just checking in. Hope all is well. I have half my crop planted. We are super dry and need rain. I’m waiting to plant anything else until we get moisture. Hope the farm is doing well.

[@bezalelgeretz]

You should add an access panel for the combination change tool. Normally you'd just remove the door liner but in your case the door liner has bushings which you wouldn't want to remove.

[@nathanswisher4578]

Absolutely Beautiful!

[@elicalvo3446]

I agree w ariat! Last long and don't shrink!. Ariat FR all the way!.

[@wileycoyotesr8623]

Be sure to lubricate the door mechanism with ACME Safe Lube. No friction or squeaking.

[@MRSketch09]

That was one amazing fab project.. your videos depresses me as much as they inspire.. I watch em, and its like "dang i should use my time more wisely"..

[@pizzatheface]

Excellent video, as usual! Whenever I want something cool, my first inclination isn't to build one, so I'm always impressed when you do.

[@Alexanderockport]

I wanted to see it painted. Great job!

[@nmopzzz]

I made a similar type of safe, but ran into an issue. In testing I put a large lever arm on the wheel that you spin and was able to break the combination mechanism. However, you safe is orders and orders of magnitude better than mine. Great job!

[@jaykepley5238]

You're on a different level, young man. Always fun to watch. Happy holidays.

[@jerrtheripper1349]

Impressive fab skills. I didn’t see a breakaway on the handle shaft, or a relocker. Pipe wrench on the handle and it’s pushing the lock aside and it’s open.

[@needXC90]

Love the ingenuity. For fireproofing, I would have gone with 3 sheets of 5/8" drywall and a fully isolated interior liner. You'll also want a heat resistant seal. Sheet could have been thicker for the outer shell, and you want barely anything retaining the bolt handle so as to not be forceable. Great exercise for v1.0

[@shelkran]

Remember this is a 'fireproof' safe not a 'thief' proof safe. it protects your stuff from a fire. and deters opportunistic people but anyone who really wants into it can get in with a few tools.

[@bigshot9557]

Next time to drill holes for your locking pins just put a thin little coat of pain on the end of the locking pins then close it like you did and just turn the lock one time till you feel it’s snug then open door up it should have you a little paint circle then draw the outline if that with a sharpie and wipe your paint off then cut on inside of line

[@keen0515]

Had checked on your channel in awhile and was surprised I missed this video! Wonderful content as always!

[@Gollammeister]

You could use fire bricks as heat thermal protection in floor walls ceiling back and in some areas in door

[@Mr69patrik]

Well done, nice job. First time I was little bit skeptical about the hinges facing outwards until I realized there are 4 locking pins :-)

[@metalheartmachine]

I love the folding up of the box. Very efficient technique

[@tflatter8912]

Fabricate fit and weld for a living very nice work !

[@mazi2024]

Its good to see you again please be more active in youtube

[@omegagavin]

Very cool project. It occurred to me that the tape they put on the face golf clubs to see where you’re striking the ball would have been perfect for locating where your bolt holes were to go. It becomes darker where the ball hits the club.

[@TdrSld]

Anytime I need to market a spot for something that moves and need to be very precise. I will coat the end of the thing that will be "Hitting" the spot that needs a hole with a lip stick that is a color that will stand out against the work piece. In a pinch you can use grease in the same way, but it can be harder to see on the work piece and move a little bit.

[@johnpeck11]

To enhance the fire resistance line the void and door with drywall board or joint compound. This is a common practice used by safe mfg. Some of current safes I work on are using a concrete lining. Nice build.

[@sungear]

I'm not noticing fireball squares. You two guys could do an awesome collaboration.

[@dougmacqueen1679]

Nothing like reinventing the wheel. There are literally tons of good fire safes out there fo

[@ffanddcondragh2911]

This felt like watching a heist movie in reverse. :)

[@vaughanellis7866]

I'd consider using Intumescent Tape where the door meets the safe body. When subject to flame, the Intumescent Tape will intumesce (expand and char) blocking the passage of fire and smoke into the safe.

[@brandonanderson6429]

That's a great idea.

[@daveloderhose874]

I think it’s Safe to say that’s one of you coolest projects

[@billparrish4385]

Absolutely stellar work! I loved that linkage, and really the entire project exudes a professional level of skill and expertise. I've been in the market for some sort of fireproof safe or lockbox, and thinking about where in the house would be the 'coldest' in a fire, to place it. Also gave some thought to a sort of fireproof closet to put the purchased box in, to increase its time and temp stats. One thing the professional boxes have (that I figure I'd have to duplicate in some fashion in my closet) is an 'intumescent' seal that swells with the heat, since a surprising amount of heat can make it through a metal-on-metal jamb in a house fire. Not sure how you could fabricate or source such a seal, but it might be a good idea to bring the doorjamb crack up closer to the heat resistance of the rest of this very well-built safe. But anyway, kudos! It's a great looking safe!

[@georgeh9967]

loved the door locking linkage, but the door needs a heatproof seal.and heatproof material. the rest of the box needs more heatproof insulation. about 3 " more. the inside of this box will overheat very fast.

[@vfnt]

What a pleasant surprise. Just got home from Uni and saw that you uploaded. Safe looks great. The locking mechanism is very impressive for me. I doubt that I would ever have been able to manufacture that. Kind of a shame that it has to be hidden behind a door, it just looks so cool, but I guess there is no chance of you leaving the door open now that you got such a big diamond in there. If you don’t mind me asking: Is that safe accepted as a fireproof safe by your insurance company, or is it more of a private project to be safe, just in case a fire ever breaks out? I know you have been sponsored by Arita before and I never thought I would need something from them as I work in a different field, but that shirt you wore when spraying looks very nice. You got me to take a look at their website for "fashion".