Rambling about Thermaltake's Floe RC RAM + CPU liquid coolers & RAM cooling

[@joefowble]

This miniradiator idea reminds me of how my car's ac radiator is basically slapped in front of the engine radiator. But now bz is designing a memory aio that's unlikely to sell as well as an aio that cools both the CPU and memory, in the name of optimized memory cooling. There's probably a reason it only pairs with rgb ram.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

Yeah the stacked car rads is my original inspiration

[@joefowble]

@@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking I would be very interested in how they've designed the memory water block and contact areas though. I suspect they're cheating on having water flow near each stick and just using thermal mass and heat transfer to an outer flow path.

[@Four-sc6gj]

Love me a good ramble.

[@kamenriderblade2099]

I love your rambling videos, so much knowledge gained through osmosis about subjects I want to know more about Here's my idea for Case Cooling Setup if you're going to use CLC's: Front Intake = 2-3x 200mm Case Fans for Cool Fresh Air Top = Modular Plates for 240/360 or 280/420 RAD's with Push/Pull out the top and exhaust to the top sides or straight out of the top depending on user preference Rear = 140mm Single Rad dedicated to RAM Modules and exhausts out of the rear above the Rear IO Panel. Basement houses PSU GPU can be stock cooling or if you insist on cooling it via Radiator, use Basement cooling to bring in air from the bottom sides and let the hot air rise up. Back Plate area of MoBo should be minimally Thick enough to allow 2-3x 5.25" Drive Bays stacked 90° sideways depending on how tall your case design is intended. This allows the room for at least 1.x 5.25" Drive Bay thick for wire management which is much more generous than most case designs out there. Support "SSI-CEB" MoBo layout as the Min standard over ATX for better compatibility with modern MoBo's that are getting a bit bigger.

[@nathangamble125]

Cooling RAM with a CLC/AIO set up as an exhaust wouldn't work, because you'd be pushing hot air from inside the case through the radiator. It would just end up the same temperature as the air inside the case, so you may as well not bother.

[@kamenriderblade2099]

@@nathangamble125 That should only be a problem if you had a "Heat-Pipe & Fan" directly venting into the path of the rear case mounted small single fan CLC. My idea was to have 2x separate CLC's. Larger 2-3x fan set on the roof Small 1x fan set on the back 2-3x Large 200mm Case Fans in the front That should solve most issues.

[@InIcarus]

Holy overclocks dude... i just can't understand how you are able to make a 23 min long video out of something like this. Its like magic

[@HyunMoKoo]

IMO common mistake when OCing the RAM is just running memory stress program. Memory stress program does produce some heat in the memory modules but it is not that much. However, when you're gaming or doing some other work, rising case temperature and/or heat transfer from back of the GPU will heat up memory modules. So sometimes RAM OC passes overnight memory stress test due to low temperature but when you start using the computer normally the memory OC gets unstable because of heat from CPU and GPU heating up the memory modules. I recommend running memory stress test program in conjunction with some GPU and/or CPU stress test program to test realistic heat scenario.

[@nubbins70]

you're preaching to the converted, lmao. BZ made an entire video dedicated to GPU heat destabilizing memory months if not more than a year ago. The common CJR and Rev.E (well, kinda) ICs won't nearly be an issue at 1.35-1.4V. If you're pushing enough VDIMM to run into thermal problems on those ICs, you should already have a dedicated fan blowing on your RAM. If you're running B-die beyond XMP, you should also already have a dedicated fan on your RAM.

[@davidtheking341]

ddr4 hyperx 2133 14 14 14 35 cr1 running 2800 mhz 1.5v i can touch it with my hand, I guess if you run like 1.7v it does make sense

[@Ironclad17]

@@nubbins70 I was pulling my hair out 2 years ago with this issue. Taking the foam filter off my front panel fixed that.

[@YTHandlesWereAMistake]

davidthek1ng higher frequency = higher power draw. Higher voltage = much higher power draw. Now welcome the people who run 4000MHz+ on timings just a bit higher than yours at 1.6v+

[@-eMpTy-]

Indeed, thankfully most DIMMs come with fairly accurate temperature sensors nowadays.

[@HyunMoKoo]

Your idea of separate loop for memory is nice but it has some problems. It would need additional pump for the memory loop and it would be quite expensive and/or unwieldy to install. So I wouldn't recommend water cooling memory only with custom loop with large enough radiator which can maintain low water temperature with all the components fully loaded.

[@emperorSbraz]

I FIGURED IT OUT! it's not for cooling the ram! it's for cooling the RGB LED ARRAY!

[@ApexLodestar]

Buildzoid using MS Paint to quickly show us different parts of the motherboard and explaining in detail was a hilarious yet useful touch. You always learn something new on this channel.

[@joek81981]

I'd be 100x more likely to buy something like this if it was a CPU & chipset cooler. But I suppose 100 times zero is still zero.

[@bene5431]

Love the rambling videos. Could you please make a playlist of those?

[@ole7736]

The Arctic Liquid Freezer 2 has a thicker radiator, and it is below 100 bucks.

[@twizz420]

Unless you live in Canada where you can't even get the 360, and the 240 and 280 are like $200+tax

[@ole7736]

@@twizz420 That's tough.

[@RinMinase]

This may be great solution. Yet I wonder where to place the pump for the RAM (second) loop. As everything is too thin or too small already to place the pump, including the RAM block

[@Leonsimages]

It is true, memory is very sensitive to temperature. I did OC some VLP RAM sticks (I think they were Nanya A-die and didn't have any heatspreaders) and with good airflow, I managed to get some decent OC (they weren't binned at all, just JEDEC spec), but when I changed the CPU cooler and the didn't get airflow anymore, they got horribly unstable.

[@SmileOverlord]

No offense, but i've having trouble sleeping due to extreme stomach pain. I just started playing your video to help me sleep. I think it's working.

[@SmileOverlord]

And it worked like a charm.

[@Lazarosaliths]

Didnt know 2 degrees make a difference in ram oc. Time to get that twin ddr air coolers i guess!😅

[@mattsmechanicalssi5833]

I run Bitspower ram blocks on their own loop, with a 280mm rad. The CPU (1680-V2) is on it's own loop, and the GPU (Titan Xp) is on it's own loop, each with 2 XSPC RX360 rads. I noticed a big stability issues when the RAM was in a loop with anything else.

[@Ironclad17]

Do a 280 cpu loop and 40x120 memory loop that will fit together in a 3x120 case. Those are both standard radiator sizes and at most you'd need a plastic shroud to cover the seams up and direct airflow.

[@dainluke]

I completely agree with you. I will say though, to be completely fair I have a 9700K running at 4.8/1.275 with High LLC on a GIGABYTE board. Under a normal gaming load my CPU never seems to draw over ~70W I'd say. So perhaps in certain scenarios this might not be totally useless.

[@robl5027]

I think you would want good insulation between the mini rad and the main one or you could end up in a situation where the CPU rad still heats up the memory one enough to be a concern. Interesting ideas! This was a large oversight from Thermaltake.

[@metaleater9]

If you were to do a custom loop with CPU, GPU, and RAM on the same line then what kind of fluid temperature should you aim for? You seemed to imply having the water temperature above the air temperature by 10c meant the radiator wasn't able to dissipate heat fast enough. Also it kinda sucks that ram now comes with heatspreaders that you can't remove without destroying your warranty.

[@sadychor]

So we all have access to this pure knowledge for free and it has like just over 3K atm? Ffs World? What are You watching rn? GoT 8th season?

[@WTP_DAVE]

Ive seen some clip on ram fans was there something to that?

[@givemeajackson]

yeah, if you want something more elegant than a ziptied case fan. my favourite is the AMD wraith stealth fan, i think that's a 72mm cooler master that looks quite neat even when ziptied.

[@titaniummechanism3214]

Nowadays RAM really doesn't give off much heat, but they are still useful when you have a workstation or server board packed with high density DIMMs and you need server-like airflow to get the heat away.

[@Daffmeister187]

I have a bunch of Corsair Airflow's on my systems. They're not super-expensive although they may not be necessary I like having them.

[@-eMpTy-]

Checkout the Corsair dominator airflow. It just clips to your memory slots and has two 50mm fans, there's even a RGB version. Can be picked up fairly cheap on the used market, since it's bundled with a few higher end Corsair RAM kits.

[@tacticalcenter8658]

How about put a fan on the side/top pointing through the memory sticks. Finished. Screw rgb.

[@hovant6666]

An Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 40mm Triple radiator would fit in a 5.25" drive bay and accommodate 3x 40mm fans, like the NF-A4x20 PWM.

[@AwangIlyasAwangMahsen]

This reminds me of the Kingston RAM cooling fans. Only stupider.

[@LadyEmilyNyx]

So what I'm hearing, is its time for me to add a second loop to my system for my ram.

[@Peregrine1989]

Well if you are going that route you want a triple loop system. Loop 1) CPU Loop 2) GPU Loop 3) Chipset/Ram. Or you can just run a big loop with a bunch of Rads. I am running all of them in a loop containing 4 240 Rads. (although I am fairly sure their are better options)

[@LadyEmilyNyx]

@@Peregrine1989 I'm thinking a 120 for the memory, a 240 (and maybe a 120 as well) for the CPU & VRM (not that the VRM really needs the cooling), and a 360 for the GPU. Each with their own colour fluid. One red, one green, one blue, perhaps?

[@Peregrine1989]

@@LadyEmilyNyx Very cool. I wish the case I had brought had more space. A smarter man would have brought the case everyone was using for Watercooling, a Lianli ESPECIALLY for their first loop...but no, I had to decide I wanted to be special and buy a unique case I would then have to modify to get everything in. And by get everything, I mean everything but the Pump. Turns out Pumps are much bigger then I thought.

[@rubensturibio8766]

So in that item, all we must do is change the memory for first and cpu for second in the loop?

[@RadarLeon]

I'm blessed with the terribleness of having room for 3 280mm and a 140mm radiator at the same time "theroteically" top drive bays can't be removed and no fan mounts blocks 360 or a potential front 420mm rad

[@ole7736]

I would prefer a small plastic housing with a square profile enclosing your 4 dimm slots and having a 40-50 mm fan at each end.

[@InternetEntity]

Hey Buildzoid! I heard you like cooling. So we've made radiators on top of your radiators.

[@MaculaPravus]

Thanks I ordered this and just cancelled it thanks to you. Appreciate the help.

[@nathangamble125]

Maybe it would work well with a RAM cooler with a 120mm radiator set up as a side intake?

[@user-dj1hy6zc6q]

Oh, hi Bill Zloyd!

[@zlibz4582]

can u try the framechasers ram and the ram cooling method and review it ?

[@fatti9780]

Since i'm not a fan of raditors or liquid cooling, i'm thinking something like "i wish dyson made smaller bladeless fans so i could put it in my case" in these days. My case has 6x 14cm fans btw. Another solution is buying an air conditioner but i'm looking for a cheaper option.

[@BenK12345]

how about just some copper trails on the underside of the board to draw heat away? I seem to remember a mobo doing that for VRM..

[@joek81981]

Packaging wise let's pretend its possible, if a wee radiator sat on top of the ram, all self-contained, would that be an idea?

[@Zarcondeegrissom]

at that point, may as well just use heat pipes from the chips up to the top of the DIMM where a regular heatsink could be. They used to have stuff like that back with DDR2 and DDR (pre DDR3 days). They would probably not bother today, because marketing would want to cover up the 'ugly' heatsink fins with RGB so air can't get to the fins, and they would be back at the original issue of the memory being hot due to a lack of cooling, lol.

[@twizz420]

Could you do a comparison between something like Corsair LPX? Where you can get one 3200mhz cl16 kit with hynix modules, and another with samsung b-die? I had two sets of 3200mhz cl16 2x8gb LPX kits, and the hynix modules could do up to 3600 cl16, whereas the b-die couldn't even hit XMP, and I was always stuck with 3133mhz or less to be completely stable on it. Both were tested on an Asus C7H with an 1800x.

[@Shockychu]

Try using Krita as your whiteboard. It has a lot of pen-tablet features.

[@JuxZeil]

The best blocks you can get for running RAM above XMP/D.O.C.P voltages are the Koolance RAM 33 ones. Keeps the DRAM's running at a happy 44°C👍 They're getting rarer and rarer though for under £20 each. 😢

[@zpr3d4t0r6]

My ram has the same temps with the one thing called airflow

[@colinlord3735]

Hey, this concept already exist, why not use the aquacomputer dual circuit radiator which has a 70/30 split.

[@NJcinemaHD]

You would need to design a pump that can pump 2 loops with one engine tho. Or have 2 separate pumps. both are hard to justify imo

[@oliverdavies8369]

The ram and CPU could even use the same motor for the pumps simplifying this even more

[@skatcat743]

5 and 1/4 inch ram radiator?

[@mh35322]

Hey Buildzoid, I've been meaning to ask this. What will happen if I use 16GB stick and 8GB stick together? For instance, I have 8+16 in channel A and 8+16 in channel B?

[@emperorSbraz]

afaik you have normal dual channel running. you can also run say 8+8 channel A - 16 channel B and still have normal dual channel. bank interleaving might be potentially be suboptimal but not a big deal.

[@jakenorthand1755]

So I’ve been having the opposite problem. I’m running an automatic LN2 system and when the RAM hits about -60C it cold bugs. Is there a voltage I can adjust (like PLL) or a different die (I’m on B-die) that would survive these lower temps? I’ve got some small heaters on order to warm up the ram sticks but that is going to be a pain to control.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

Afaik there's basically nothing you can do other than use a more cold tolerant mem ic

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

Actually you could maybe heat the RAM with a warm water loop. That way you get pretty precise memory temp control.

[@mauriceelet6376]

i like my 280 30mm rad in the front only for ram and vrm.

[@wewillrockyou1986]

I think the that the memory has such a low power dissipation makes the fact that water cooling lets you move where you are dissipating your heat rather irrelevant... A 120mm fan will force so much airflow over the memory sticks that the temperature change of the air will be immeasurably small unlike if you were to dissipate ~100-200w or so with the same airflow from a CPU.

[@ActuallyHardcoreOverclocking]

the main problem is that internal case air is very likely at the same temp that the mem sticks would be at if you cooled them with external air.

[@jhinfex7368]

The idea of a good AIO, just custom loop it :))

[@EldaLuna]

speaking of.. wondering if anyone heard of this happen before. so my ram was on 3200mhz for longest time though nothing ever changed and was good few months but then i noticed my apps were dying and freezing so i rebooted then the memory failed training and defaulted at 2666mhz and couldn't get it to go back.. so i got mad and forced 1.4 volts and 1.2 soc like i don't give af anymore and slowly increased it back up till 3200 held again. so just curious as to why that is a possible issue

[@theunholybakery1990]

I can't immagine it to be imc or ram degradation, since 3200mhz doesn't require a significant amount of voltage. In my experience, some mobos (mostly asrock in my experience) are a bit weird with stuff like tertiary timings and 1t, 2t, gear down mode ecc... which it doesn't reset when going back to stock or they bug out and don't activate with xmp. Idk, hope this helped.

[@EldaLuna]

interesting. i see i don't touch the timings or anything so must be just my board being stupid i guess. it is just a gigabyte d3sh after all so its probably this cheap thing.

[@theunholybakery1990]

@@EldaLuna try something like 1t gear down mode and that doesn't work loosen up the secondaries a bit.

[@EldaLuna]

ok ill give it a try and see what happens a bit later on.

[@nexxusty]

Straightly?

[@seanrobertson3833]

Oh the ads on this video where painful

[@nathangamble125]

14:05 This sounds like it would be ruined by convection from the CPU radiator. I'd put the memory radiator on the bottom.

[@emperorSbraz]

convection would only happen with significance in zero fan scenarios.

[@backyardcreeper]

You know it's gonna be good when he has ms paint open ^^

[@wiyandriluwisto3973]

RAMs are temperature sensitive I learn something new thanks

[@joefowble]

Some ram is, like Samsung b die and micron b, apparently. I think bz did a video with a heat gun to demonstrate or test.

[@emperorSbraz]

all silicon is. it's a matter of where is the treshold and how sharp the knee.

[@Celician83]

Random thought: take RGB RAM, do away with RGB, hook pelletier cooler in RGB voltage, mount to RAM chips. Then, mount the Thermaltake water block on top of the pelleteir cooler. Make sure loop order is CPU>rad>RAM. Should work a dream compared to just watercooled!

[@emperorSbraz]

i don't think you realize the difference in ampere those 2 have.

[@Celician83]

@@emperorSbraz maybe, they may draw alot.

[@emperorSbraz]

@@Celician83 a lot for rgb would be 1A at 5V, and that's a stupid high amount. a suitable tec would easily peak 10A at 12V. you see the problem here? :)

[@Celician83]

@@emperorSbraz well then, a less elegant solution would be to have a SATA connector on each module

[@twizz420]

I didn't realize you also HAVE to use Thermaltake's RAM with this giant POS squid on crack.

[@jonb695]

Intake in the rear😈

[@LeoDavidson]

I saw this thing and wondered who it was aimed at. For normal users who would go for an AIO, they are not going to be overclocking their RAM so much that it needs water cooling. Even ignoring the fact that the design of this will heat the RAM instead of cooling it, all this will do for normal users is make installing the AIO even more of a pain because there are even more inflexible tubes and objects hanging off the CPU block. For extreme overclockers, they're going to want a custom loop, or at least two separate loops, and more/larger radiators. And for people who just want RGB over their memory, well there are already a million options for that that don't involve the extra hassle and tubes. This thing is just dumb from every angle.

[@Marshaluranus]

you tell em

[@L33R1C3]

Patent pending....thanks BZ! 😝

[@dwikydarmawan6373]

Next: water cooling your power supply

[@rageofheaven]

these...actually do exist. or did, its hard to find one.

[@scrubsodium]

Hey Bullzoid, I was really down that the mice just leave some weird marks on my MSI RX570 4gb OC due to me leaving the panel on last night and causing weird issue on running games lately. I cleaned the residue left by that mice and one capacitor has this greenish corrosion, I am certain that this capacitor is the one that causes me sudden shutdowns after several minutes of use, Hoping if you know what capacitance of this specific one over here: imgur.com/Zy343hY appreciate the replies!

[@emperorSbraz]

inspect the whole thing VERY thoroughly taking note of the exact spots where there's corrosion, then carefully clean the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol. it's unlikely those caps are broken just because of some corrosion, the issue could be the traces leading to them instead.

[@scrubsodium]

@@emperorSbraz I carefully cleaned the Graphic Card and I inspect very thoroughly behind the card and no weird greenish corrosion spotted anywhere yet that certain capacitor I shown at the link I provided is the only one that has it, I can't open the card just yet due to having a Warranty for one year. until few days my Motherboard wont detect the card and no heat is being produced. Should I RMA it? I'm not sure if it will void my warranty because of that specific problem that I am facing right now.

[@emperorSbraz]

@@scrubsodium i'd clean the green stuff and RMA it. i'd make sure to sound as stupid as possible and say "i don't know the screen turns blue" or whatever, don't say "water" or anything like that. good luck. :)

[@scrubsodium]

@@emperorSbraz I manage to clean it partially but a new problem arises i mentioned previously it does work and gets detected and now my gpu doesnt get detected by the mobo. Im guessing the mobo pcie slot is fucked too lmao imma find another test bench near me. Thank you for helping me out!

[@scrubsodium]

@@emperorSbraz Update: ye the gpu is fucked now, I'll RMA it for sure and will act dumb infront of them.

[@hughw.]

hi Buildzoid. I'm going to sell my 2060K0...Maybe both or them. One is the Ultra.

[@jordibt1789]

Just peltier the ram or strap the cooler master aio tower to it

[@Oldsah]

I wish they made side intakes again. Really useful for VRM and GPUs. I don't get the glass thing. You look at a Monitor not a PC. You do you but definitely not for me.

[@YTHandlesWereAMistake]

I mean, you look at the dashboard of the car, not the outside.. buuuut sometiiiimes it’s nice to look at a nicely looking car and be proud of yourself and enjoy how it looks, I guess?

[@deminybs]

funny a friend bought the 3950x just so he could one up me since I've been using the 3900x ....lol joke was on him since all my stuff is in an open loop and he has a 240 AIO on that 3950x..... poor poor chip 😢

[@deminybs]

@DespacitoXR no it's like a $30 cooler master one. Lol

[@deminybs]

@DespacitoXR I sent him home with the Arctic freezer II 360mm yesterday, now if he'll just install the damn thing 😂

[@deminybs]

@DespacitoXR he actually had it in his system once already, but brought it back to me , said it sounded like it was pulling air through pump , so I topped it off with fluid and gave it back lol

[@bgdwiepp]

How about you just make a TEC cooler for the memory? you're only moving like 20W from the memory, the TEC might actually be practical at those power levels, you wouldnt need a radiator, for say 80W overall a standard heatsink would be fine.

[@MrBubmer]

But then you would need to cool the TECs down and that's going to be a nightmare

[@bgdwiepp]

I don't see how that would be any more of a nightmare than the water cooling solution which needs a double rad, a double pump, double hoses, some heat exchanger for the memory etc...

[@jakenorthand1755]

Corsair used to make one. The Ice T30. Basically a thermoelectric DDR3 cooler with a water loop on the hot side

[@emperorSbraz]

an unregulated pelt of appropriate power will easily get you below the dew point so you'd need a temp sensor minimum and a pwm controller. arduino can do that ez, i did it. anyway you'd be in the realm of 100w of heat max total (a lot less assuming it's gonna throttle itself to avoid making liquid water around) so basically nothing for a 240 or larger.

[@hardrocklobsterroll395]

They should just pay you

[@ninja226]

Are you, in any way, trying to justify cooling memory? You cannot justify this in any way, ever, from a person who hates on vrm water cooling.

[@ninja226]

This is dumb as F in any scenario. Also, why would you make it so thin, but no just a thicker 120mm rad and then place it in the back of the case?

[@emperorSbraz]

AIOs: rice uninspired wannabe crappy laughing stock since the early 2000s.

[@rageofheaven]

Some of them, yes. Arctic takes theirs very seriously. While its nice to have a D5, I just can't justify the price of a loop when I can spend a fraction of the price and still manage 90% of the performance. 10, 15 years ago, sure, but not now.

[@ebsmith1102]

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