Bare Shaft Nock Tuning STEP #3 l Ranch Fairy

[@MrBowNaxe]

Great stuff Troy! I'm a believer... Thanks to the THP boys for sending me your way.

[@L19-o7r]

This is step 2, but the title says step 3. You should make a playlist with the whole tuning process in order.

[@dougsliker1224]

Ranch Fairy, your the best. Don't know if I watch you for the entertainment or the knowledge. I used to shoot a modern longbow, JD BERRY Pin Viper at 60 lbs. Set my arrows up the way you are and what a surprise. The bow was more accurate, arrows hit like pile drivers and you could feel it in your hand and arm, the bow loved it. I think I learned all this stuff from reading Trad Bow magazine. Due to being clumsy and old and having a sore wrist and Shoulder I have not bow hunted in 5 years. I stumbled into the Hunting Public vidios about a month ago and got fired up to go bow hunting. They are a great bunch of guys and I discovered you through them. Was so good to see you can set up a compound to shoot them heavy arras. Can't wait but it always stretched my patience pretty thin. Keep on preaching the truth. My old Baptist preacher says if nobody throws a few stones you better examine what your saying cause fairy tales don't upset anyone but the truth usually does. Preach on Brother.

[@reganjeremiah08]

This video is incredibly helpful. Watched it again today, and then went out and nock-tuned my first three Apollos. I used my carpenter's square to check if the arrows were perpendicular in the target, and found that very useful.

[@travisbrooks9531]

Awesome…keep up the great work… and don’t ever change your personality, it super great having someone around whom you can learn from and can constantly keep you interested while keeping the entire process fun… i am new to this sport and by far you have simplified an abundance… Thank you

[@Ironlion_67]

Glad I found you Troy. This truly is simply THE system to Kill. Thanks for sharing Ranch fairy> Inspired

[@ryans9029]

Hey sir ranch fairy.. One thing i would like to point out as a tip. Once you have one shaft tuned and straight in the target, shoot it off a coupe inches to the side and leave it in the target. Then tune the rest of your arrows. This gives you a very accurate square to visually compare the rest of your shafts immediately. Both horizontal and vertical. Good work bro. Keep spreading the word of heavy arrows. Even guys that refuse to use fixed blades need to understand that mass and FOC will greatly increase their effectiveness, even more so with the flappers. 👍

[@mikeneuburger3989]

Make sure you line yourself up to one side when you put your reference/ benchmark shot in the target

[@toddferrell518]

Troy man I got to thank you because I always thought I had perfect arrow flight but I built me a set of adult arrows and went through all the steps and now I’ve got 560 Gn arrows with 17.5 % foc that bare shaft or fletched group together and fly like darts with no wobble , thanks again man for the great information

[@RanchFairy]

That’s so great!!!

[@gsquared2394]

“Here’s the deal: you need to shoot. A LOT. Of shots.” This is where most gomers stop. They’ll shoot a few twizzlers and get them to group, then slap on a huge mechanical their favorite professional hunter is pimping, and after naming all their bucks, they’ll try to “put da rage in da cage”.

[@VilRuS]

I'm with you on not liking this dry, granular type tuning but it's like a lot of things. Put in the work up front and enjoy the payoff later on. Just got some new arrows I'll be building for the upcoming season. 28" 5mm Axis that I'll be tipping with 75gr insert and 125gr Magnus Black Horny Ser-razor. Total arrow weight should come in around 560ish grains. Excited to get them tuned up as this will be the heaviest arrows I've built!

[@ryanstage3912]

Nice video, i'm not sure if i've been lucky or not but i've found marking the carbon shaft seam (yes they all have one) and fletching the index vane on that mark along with using pin knocks makes arrow tuning faster with less wasted arrows that won't behave like their siblings. A friend also showed me to find the spin direction of the bare shaft and fletch them right or left based on that rather then just fletching everything right like i use to do.

[@B.A.Bassangler]

Working up some turkey loads, after many hours of RF and other viewing. I hope to contribute to the lightweight HFOC world of Head-Lopping broadheads. I've had communication with several manufacturers with mixed advice...my plan..continue with Broadheads "pulling" freakishly large head-choppers. Also saw another vid that inspired me to take your bare shaft and nock tuning to another level. Standard 3M Super 33+ electrical tape weighs 1.6 grains/inch. Algebra, (yeah I had to brush up) tells us that 6.25" of tape equals my 4, 4" Gateway shield cuts...gonna wrap that around my bare shaft and play with effects on spine.

[@survivalist9818]

Great idea Troy. Going to try this out tomorrow and I'll get ahold of you with some questions. Thanks for showing this process.

[@np8893]

Dude, last line bout needin a mechanical. HILARIOUSSSSSS

[@SoloCamXTOutdoors]

Great!!! Now I have to tune my nocks. 😟. I always hear people say “got that one flyer”. Well, there you have it.

[@RanchFairy]

SoloCamXT Outdoors Dude ever since mike showed me this I have been trying to make it FAIL. I can’t and I am super good at breaking stuff!!! World champ! Yep. You need to....or we can stay stupid forever

[@SoloCamXTOutdoors]

Ranch Fairy literally every part of my bow and arrows are meticulously tuned except the nocks. I have heard of nock tuning before in the recent past but never really gave it much thought. The way you demonstrated it really got my cog wheels turning. It’s on like donkey Kong.

[@RanchFairy]

SoloCamXT Outdoors You’re gonna learn something new man! I ask starting to believe arrow tuning might be the first thing we have to get right - then reverse engineer into the bow.

[@SoloCamXTOutdoors]

Ranch Fairy you are absolutely right. I only had to ponder that one for .004 seconds to realize it. We have been tuning our bows to inconsistent arrows. I already get great grouping with field points vs broadheads. But why not strive for super duper great. 🧐

[@RanchFairy]

SoloCamXT Outdoors It’s everything!! But now that I’ve learned how to build much better arrows, I work back to the bow. Keep me posted on your results

[@ripfletching]

This is a very good video I have discovered in my shooting that a Turbo Nock’ fixes most of these problems it spins my arrow at 9000 RPMs and my flight is phenomenal

[@RanchFairy]

ripfletching Best I understand, If its flying sideways at release, it’s flying sideways at release. Any “masking” agent - 5” fletch, etc is just that. Keep me posted on your results this year. There’s always new things and we all want to learn

[@tonylips]

Good evening RF, am enjoying your videos a lot👍 Could you please give me your take on FOBs fletching. I have not used them on my new set of arrows yet , am still putting them together. But I have used them on the flappers, I think it has help some. I just don’t like fletching arrows period. Please advise! Thanks a million for your dedication to try to show everyone how to shoot an ADULT ARROWS 🤙

[@cdp50359]

Thank u for showing this. Maybe people will realize now that without a true straight flying arrow, the arrow will hit its target sideways and this will decrease the effect on the arrows penetration and of course accuracy

[@RanchFairy]

C Price It matters - a lot - on meat!

[@TheCondor300]

I believe carbon arrows are built from 2 pieces glued together... so there is 2 seams on every arrow.... at least they did years ago. So it makes sense that rotating your nock changes your impact point. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Seems I also remember that aluminum arrows have a seam and we would start our fletching on our jig with the seam in the same position for each arrow we fletched. We found we got much better groups doing so.

[@RanchFairy]

George Adams They are actually linear carbon (except for the woven models. I don’t know if it’s as much a “stiff I.e thicker or more carbon side or a legitimate seam, so in my small mind, we are finding the most consistent part, linearly, of each individual arrow, and finding consistency. I also suspect in the manufacturing process everything isn’t completely perfect, I assume they don’t insure there are a perfectly equal amount of carbon fibers though the whole circumference. Now you got me wondering. I’ll ask some smart people.

[@sixgunluvr1]

So I saw another video on the bare shaft coming out of the bow oriented either left or right. Usually depending on the clockwise or counter cloak wise orientation of the bow string. So I marked the bare shaft and shot it from 3 yds. Sure enough my string is twisted counter clockwise and my bare shafts are coming out the same way. Trouble is my fletching is right offset so it supposedly has to initially fight the arrow before winning over and rotating clockwise.

[@JamesSmullins]

I nock tune my pre fletched arrows, cant get as precise as bare shaft but it absolutely makes a difference. After two separate times from two different shops getting arrows cut wrong I already decided to just build my own. Then I will fine tune each arrow for best flight.

[@RanchFairy]

James Smullins Only if you want great arrows!!! Not easy arrows!!!

[@Macmathews1]

Love your BRASS nock point.. Dude its 2020 .. Learn to tie !

[@B.A.Bassangler]

Easton Axis Trads...Almost any nock tune works for me. I still go through the process, because there ARE spots on the arrow that are not as good as the majority of spots. NOT an excuse for neglecting this part of the tune. This is where you need to get intimate with each shaft, (that's what she said), and know what is the BEST nock position. Inserts are not as consistent for me, running about 60% broadhead worthy with Ethics and hot-melt, the rest get field points and a NFG mark...got 2 that won't insert tune. Just some perspective, if your arrow handloading is making you crave some of RF's Zannies!

[@christopherwatson283]

I use Paper and Tune the Bow. You may have some inconsistency in your points/damaged points. You may have inconsistency in your nocks/low quality/damaged. A quality set of Arrows goes a long way. As in Aluminum or New High Tech Carbon Composites. You also have to have a stiff enough Arrow. High front weight will mess things up. May need an overdraw to keep them stiff enough.

[@RanchFairy]

Ok!

[@tryggvetnneberg8224]

in the beginning...maaaan u were annoying, but now.....this is the way to go, keep up the good work!!:)

[@NorthernMNbeard]

I’ve got some arrows that are good. But building a dozen of the same recipe and going to super tune. I’ll make a video and tag ya sir. You’ve changed my view. This is all hand loading like ya do for a rifle.

[@RanchFairy]

Huntersville Outdoors Well that’s awesome and I shall borrow your phrase - it truly is handloading!!!

[@doublehoff666]

Seems like a hell of a lot of work.

[@robcooper1330]

I was literally FIGHTING today trying to bareshaft tune. Could not get it to work. I had a nock left that I could not get rid of. Then I rotated the nock a quarter turn and it shot absolutely perfect. I guess I'm going to nock tune all my arrows.

[@RanchFairy]

Rob Cooper Maybe! Magic

[@robcooper1330]

@@RanchFairy is the next step to fletch and shoot broadheads?

[@RanchFairy]

Rob Cooper you bet

[@timcrane9043]

Discovered your channel through THP. Always been a gun or crossbow hunter but looking to explore compound. I’m not sure if this question will be answered in a future video, as I work through them, but I’m not sure if I am at a chicken and egg scenario. You see information on people buying a new bow and having it tuned at the shop. But am I mistaken in thinking that the shop is tuning the bow with untuned arrows? Hence my confusion.

[@RanchFairy]

This is correct! It’s both - So get the bow tuned and then buy more of the same arrows Then tune those arrows. See my bare shaft tuning “the process” video.

[@Timberdam]

Hey! I like the videos, There informative and based in Evidence...Thanks for that..I guess you shoot Bishop arrows..Seem bullet proof... Out of my price range. What's your next favorite arrow ? Victory?

[@RanchFairy]

Bernard Coppolelli Arrows - Sirius Apollo Black eagle spartan Gold tip hunter

[@Timberdam]

@@RanchFairy Thanks ! I'll check them out

[@domgiampietro6005]

Thank you

[@tomholloway1568]

Hi master... i would be really interested to see if your arrow floated in a bath and see if your mark floats to the top or should be the bottom. Too late if inserts are in but would still be interesting

[@RanchFairy]

Tom Holloway Dunno. Not gonna do that - id probably spine index them. I prefer to shoot them so they are custom to my form. At least that’s what I believe now!! Hahahha

[@sixgunluvr1]

Just when I thought I was getting somewhere…….I saw another video on the bare shaft coming out of the bow oriented either left or right. Usually depending on the clockwise or counter cloak wise orientation of the bow string. So I marked the bare shaft and shot it from 3 yds. Sure enough my string is twisted counter clockwise and my bare shafts are coming out the same way. Trouble is my fletching is right offset so it supposedly has to initially fight the arrow before winning over and rotating clockwise. I did notice that 1 of the 3 new string sets I have is twisted clockwise. Now I’m debating whether it makes enough difference to press the bow and reverse rotation of my bow string.

[@RanchFairy]

Get your whole set of arrows bare shaft tuned before you change this.

[@BriarJumper]

Troy, any difference when using luminocks vs standard nocks or changing them out if not hunting and if battery runs out etc?

[@RanchFairy]

Briar Jumper I run the tune with regular nocks, then replace with lighted nocks in the same position. I shoot my hunting set up With lighted nocks a few times just to check.

[@CliffSherlock]

Late to the party, but you touched on something at the end of this video. What happens if you do all the proper procedure and then get rid of structural integrity and throw a flapper on? ( my guess is you increased the lethality quite a bit) anywho..... just musings.

[@RanchFairy]

Find out!! Hahaha - not recommended

[@davidbinversie6079]

Troy just want to make sure I'm putting this all together properly. 1st insert tune and glue 2nd bare shaft nock tune 3rd fletch arrow 4th install broadhead and confirm nock tuning 5th switch to lighted nock if we choose and confirm hunting set-up Go kill some stuff!!

[@RanchFairy]

David Binversie Perfect. One thing. IF your broadheads don’t spin true move the broadheads arrow to arrow until they do. One of my friends when he insert tunes, numbers the arrow and the broadhead at that stage - before gluing. He knows which ones are super plumb. You can get more and more granular!! Keep me posted - especially whacking stuff

[@brentdeal109]

learned alot thanks sir

[@chriswiggins5202]

Great video Troy, in the ideal world would it be better to tune the arrows by shooting them through the bow and by archer the arrow are being made for?

[@RanchFairy]

Chris Wiggins Yes, of course. That way the exact release and muscle twitches you impart (no one is a machine) - are “built in”. But having anyone do it - at similar draw weight - is a huge improvement. The arrows are at least consistent.

[@danbyington2088]

That sounds like a C5 flying

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

Most Victory arrows come with the spine marked, making this process and fletch and go much easier and more accurate

[@MrDankozi]

Is nock tuning just spine aligning?

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

@@MrDankozi more or less.

[@johndenver5029]

​@MrDankozi no not really. The spine align on victory represents the static spine of the arrow. Nock tuning is dynamic spine

[@andrewblythe4656]

Stupid question but if you're going to use lighted knocks, you need to use them throughout the tuning process correct?And throughout all your summer practice? Gonna get expensive draining the batteries, but no point in indexing the stock ones to switch right before season I guess.

[@RanchFairy]

Andrew Blythe Yes and so tune with lighted - shoot stock all year. It’s close enough

[@seekndestr0y1]

I’m thinking of getting your kit and trying out high FOC setups. Do I start with that or nock tune the arrows first?

[@nicetryb0z0]

Hand load, or find the weight first. Then tune them

[@mdr.leewilliams7242]

I totally agree the shafts should be squared at both ends. Would you get the same results if you French tuned the arrows, or does the tuning have to be bare shaft or paper tuning?

[@RanchFairy]

MD R. Lee Williams Gonna have to test that - I haven’t

[@ebelanger03]

Ranch Fairy, the video with the Hunting Public changed my thinking. I have shot a Wasp Jack Hammer 3 blade mechanical for a long time. Can I DM you?

[@RanchFairy]

ebelanger03 You bet

[@charliebelle6693]

I'm a four fletcher with a Bitzenberger and a slight helical on 29" Victory arrows. I currently shoot a biscuit on an Elite bow set at 53lbs. I'm going to move to trying feathers and start squaring my arrows. Would I benefit from a drop away rest? Thanks for the videos.

[@RanchFairy]

Charlie Belle Yes, I believe you will benefit from a QAD hunter style rest. The biscuit is a good rest - we’ve found a couple HUNTING weaknesses. 1 - if you shoot a lot the bristles get soft and the arrow is leaving at a slightly different angle - no way around that 2. If it gets wet the bristles can bunch up and your arrow falls through. 3. One of my buddies somehow got ice on his? I think condensation from in a house to immediately outside froze. It made a Heck of a screech when he tried to shoot a deer. 4. They definitely weren’t designed for adult arrows. We’ve run some 600 plus through them and the bristles were very inconsistent.

[@JamesSmullins]

If you are shooting four fletch then the wb isn't the best, that darker patch on the bottom is stiffer then the rest of the bristles. If your fletching hits it it will kick your arrow specially if using plastic vanes. I am switching to a limb driver due to bristle wear as Troy said. I can get replacement bristles but for as much as I shoot it isn't cost effective.

[@charliebelle6693]

@@JamesSmullins Yes, I index mine so they go on either side of the bottom bristles.

[@saf5029]

Ranch Fairy, I'm about to order my weighted inserts from Ethics, but I'm curious if I were to buy the spinning inserts instead, would that eliminate the need to insert tune like their website claims? Trying to get my new arrows built before late archery season right after Christmas. A reply would be great!

[@RanchFairy]

HAR HAR - “arrows be pushed from the back my friend”. Ever shot billiards? Like that

[@eddiealvarez5493]

RF your the SShit..! I dig precision, Your that guy. Keeper coming.😵

[@Noble_Titus]

Is the tuning for that particular individual nock or can it work with, say a lumenok you put in for the season? Trying to determine if it’s a matter of the clock orientation on the rear of the shaft or the exact mating of an individual nock to that arrow. Can you still do the tuning with fletched arrows, or does it mask the differences (compared to bare shaft)?

[@RanchFairy]

Here’s my nock tuning video with fletched arrows . kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYGrimudnbl8na8 On either bare shaft or fletched, once you establish the proper nock position, mark the arrow. The nock can then change to lumenok or any other brand that fits - oriented in that same position. When we tune shafts, it’s all about consistent shaft flex. That’s why the nock brand doesn’t matter, nock orientation consistency is critical.

[@rorynelson7548]

Mr. Ranch Fairy, sir, could you please make a compilation video of that Gilbert guy or whatever his name is

[@rorynelson7548]

The guy with the messed up teeth

[@Stinkfam]

I did this, and was very pleased with how easy it was to get the arrows to "point back at me." Will i need to do this all over again if i decide to change arrow set-up?

[@Stinkfam]

question- At 10 yards it's kicked towards the tire, at 20 yards (or 30, whatever- MORE) would it kick to the other side of the bush? My question is- it this tuned for 10 yards and 10 yards only?

[@robertmarut1784]

my question is... I'm setting up a new sight and new arrows at the same time! I'm building a 550 to 575 grain arrow setup with black eagles and ethics archery inserts. Question is what do I do first? Make my arrows up first and shoot with the old sight then flip sights or put my new sight on and take it from their?

[@RanchFairy]

Robert Marut Great question. Simple answer. Doesn’t matter. Tuning is separate from sight quality. As long as you can hit the target - you’ll see the arrows kicking or sticking in the target off center. Get the arrows built and tuned, then zero. Keep me posted

[@robertmarut1784]

thanks@@RanchFairy Did you ever use the bath tub test to find your arrow spine?

[@RanchFairy]

Robert Marut I have not.

[@elijahscull4859]

I'm confused a bit. I get all the tuning and dig it all. However I'm not sure what I do first, knock tune or bare shaft tune your bow? How do you knock tune an arrow when your bow isn't bare shaft tuned and how do you tune your bow when the arrows aren't knock tuned? Does this make sense?

[@RanchFairy]

Elijah Scull kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIrHZ4OKpt10ntE Then nock tune each arrow once you get the handload!! You can piddle with nock tuning the test arrows to get them perfect perfect. It’s magic

[@mitchellchandler350]

What distance does big mike do his nock tuning through paper at please

[@bendotson8845]

I think he's ted nugents little brother, lol . They act very similar.

[@austinrichcreek2477]

When building adult arrows and adding weight up front how is your spine selection affected?

[@RanchFairy]

Austin Richcreek If you’re running 300 spine arrows and normal “ish” draw weight. Add point weight and test it. Usually, it’s increase spine one level stiffer and tune

[@austinrichcreek2477]

According to gold tip I am to run 340s at 29 inch draw 70 pounds so seems I’d be fine with a 400 then..will definitely be checking it out as I’m wanting to play with 100 grain inserts and 125 grain broadheads

[@RanchFairy]

Austin Richcreek You need a 300, not 400

[@austinrichcreek2477]

Ranch Fairy thanks

[@mr.skeptical3071]

So if you do ALL this them when you fletch and shoot a b.h. and it pulls or is a little wonky, would you then turn the knock again? Do another knock tune..

[@RanchFairy]

First I’d check vane contact on the rest Put lipstick on the front. Then - so yes - shoot every arrow with a broadhead and check that - if they run weird it sure can’t hurt. Aerodynamically, broadheads have much higher drag.

[@chilipepperjackcowboyactio9947]

Got 6 new shafts on the way will be doing the insert and nock tuning for them when they get in. Have that big disadvantage on this shooting the recurve so many little things I could be doing wrong that will change results. Any advice on doing all of this for a recurve or longbow?

[@RanchFairy]

Chili Pepper Jack Cowboy Action Oh - the process is the same - but you need multiple weight field points to tweak the correct paradox. Buy 150/200/250/300 field points and bare shaft. You will need to accept the arrow and point that shoots the best. Or change arrow spine and repeat. Ken Beck from black widow has a good video on this and the Tuffhead website - they have a bare shaft tuning write up. It’s takes time and much more patience with trad. But when you find the sweet spot you can shoot bare shafts 100 -

[@chilipepperjackcowboyactio9947]

@@RanchFairy Thanks, have all the points and found that 200 is working very very good for me. Just very very hard to keep form perfect over and over. Have watched that video of Ken Beck about 30 times. LOL I always keep a bare shaft with me when practicing. Will keep working it and will let you know how everything works with the new shafts.

[@RanchFairy]

Chili Pepper Jack Cowboy Action Kicking!!

[@chriswiggins5202]

Do you think Broadhead and fletch alignment / orientation has any importance ?

[@RanchFairy]

Chris Wiggins None. I carry every broadhead configuration in my golf bag quiver. So let’s get logical. The broadhead is 25-32” in front of the fletch. The big airspace in between is open. No way to control that. The idea that the broadhead and fletch will “line up”’ as the arrow moves forward in an aerodynamic vortex, is pretty fancy. Straw man. I find a bunch of folks shooting under spined and poorly tuned soft arrows allows the arrow to bend and whip way too much as it corrects itself in fligh. Bare shaft nock tuning will show this in a HURRY. Stay tuned!!

[@Cuisinenomade1]

But what happens when you watch the flight on video? I have found that it may land in the target straight but in slow motion camera it shows the tail kicking

[@RanchFairy]

So the idea that the arrow is completely stable is a misunderstood concept, they actually harmonically wobble and rotate all the way downrange. Yes, there are weaknesses in this strategy. But doing absolutely nothing assures you will have.....unknown results.

[@taylorpetty5866]

Hey man, be careful with certain targets, because if the target isn't square to you then it might not stick in squared and give you wrong info. Paper is more consistent, but I understand that a lot of people don't have access to shoot through paper.

[@RanchFairy]

Taylor Petty Great point!!

[@chadknutson848]

So when your nock is good then how do set that in a bitzenberger Fletcher because if set it in with Sharpe mark the vane will not set aligned

[@RanchFairy]

chad knutson Rotate nock out of position Fletch Rotate fletch and nock back into position

[@kevinroberts9580]

Nothing like reinforcing your aggravation by shooting thousands of bad arrows!

[@RanchFairy]

Yup “getting in my reps with 60% effectiveness”

[@practicaltactical1336]

Another Great video!

[@bblackmon9119]

I know this is one of your older videos... but if I do not have access to a target that is stiff enough to bare shaft knock tune, would it be better to paper tune with a bag as a backstop?

[@RanchFairy]

@@bblackmon9119 No - use paper! Or a paper tuner.com paper tuner - I have a video on the paper tuner on my channel Bag targets won’t hold the arrow straight and you’ll be in rehab!!!

[@bblackmon9119]

@RanchFairy oh yea... I ment normal paper tuning, with a bag 5-6 feet behind the paper. I've just gotten back into archery hunting after being out for about 10 years and I was a heavy arrow thrower but that was when the American bow hunter was very against heavy arrows and they were all chasing the highest fps they could get. I have learned alot about getting my bows tuned up with your videos and look forward to flinging arrows at critters again!

[@RohannvanRensburg]

Probably a stupid question, but at which step does impact testing come in? Say you nail your paper bareshaft, your insert tune and your nock tune, then you fletch up some arrows. What if bareshafts are impacting differently from fletched arrows? Do you make adjustments to i.e. your rest at this point?

[@RanchFairy]

I don’t compare - I go straight to fletched and then test flètched broadhead and fletched field point

[@RohannvanRensburg]

@@RanchFairy Good to know. I suppose that sort of has to be determine during bow setup. Having some serious nock right kicks no matter what point weight I use, so it's gotta be me or the bow setup.

[@RanchFairy]

@@RohannvanRensburg When they all go one way no matter what Underspined or it’s the bow....could be torque

[@Sharpshoot3r5]

What the difference from a nock tune and rest tune? How do i know which is off? What came first the chicken or the egg?

[@iowaoutdooraddictionsdec]

Can u fletch nock tune and get same results?

[@CYOTsNiper]

How far back should you shoot from the target when doing the bare shaft testing?

[@RanchFairy]

21 feet

[@evanhb49]

i started tuning my bare shaft 300 spines my first shot was a horrible right tear (LH shooter) so i turned knock counter clockwise and it took half of it out but its still 2” slanted out to the right. but i noticed i hit in the same place very consistently top left amazingly accurate just right tear how do it get it out? i already tried adjusting my rest; just moved where i hit still does the tear. and my old 340 fletched arrows shoot bottom right after rest adjustment for the 300s

[@RanchFairy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJ_Qg5VtitWAnMk

[@goodoletimes]

I tried this and my arrows have a left tear. My rest is maxed to the right. Is it cause my spine is too soft? 215 point weight, 500 grain total arrow weight. 350 spine, 58lbs draw, 27 in arrow length. Should I go stiffer arrow spine or lower poundage?

[@RanchFairy]

old painless If it’s maxed one way or the other - it’s possible there are a few issues - any time you get all the way one way or another. 1. Yes, try 300 spine. And #2 2. Check vane clearance and see if they are impacting cables on the way by at release. 3. Whisker biscuit rests hate heavy arrows - if a whisker biscuit - try a drop away. 4. Cam lean and other archery shop required adjustments might be the next culprit. If above doesn’t solve, might need to take it in and see if there are any timing issues / etc. Be careful with the heavy arrow thing. They will think you’re crazy unless you’ve already established, the fact, you’re crazy! Trust me. If it’s a typical pecker measuring shop, you can take in skeet loads and have them adjust timing and all that on your 350’s. Then buy a couple 300’s on the way out the door. One of my subs had similar issues and his riser was literally bent. Crazy man. Start simple first

[@goodoletimes]

Yeah, i Dont have any arrow clearance issues. I suspected the bow might be it off tune hence the rest is maxed out opposite of the tear. I will have the bow checked out and will give the 300 spine a try. I will update. Your videos are very informative and helpful. Keep them coming. Thanks for the reply man!

[@crustyhunts7556]

I went and got some 350 spine arrows with hundred grain outsert and 150 head. The arrows are shooting to the left. Any suggestions? Do you think paper tune should help me solve the problem never had this problem with old arrows. Thanks so much in advance .

[@RanchFairy]

Crusty Hunts Probably under spined

[@crustyhunts7556]

Ranch Fairy I originally bought 300s those veered left as well. All bareshafts went to the left. I then shot one fletched arrow and that moved hard right. So i figured I needed to shoot 350’s. I’m going to try to paper tune and see if that’s my issue.

[@davevelez9735]

Big Mike has been pounding on you? OMG LOL

[@RanchFairy]

Dave Velez First one to mention that..... gotta “watch my language!”

[@jamesparker7499]

I have to use paper or I'll keep convincing myself it's off and keep tinkering with it.

[@chuckdean260]

Awesome info! Is there anyway I can speak to you about this stuff? I'm. It very good at this computer crap! I live down in Georgia. I can give you my number if that works for you?

[@RanchFairy]

Email is easier / I’m just starting to hunt this year [e-mail]

[@Aldocello1]

You do realize the little stub on the side of the knock is a tuning reference right ??? Most have them ... yes easier to see with a sharpie mark but if you find yourself without one on hand . 😊

[@RanchFairy]

So - maybe. Back in the day of back quivers that notch was for locating the proper nock position on the string by feel. But yes - you can use it for that too.

[@davidcampbell2661]

Do you cut the arrows to length for spine before or after nock tuning?

[@RanchFairy]

@@davidcampbell2661 They are cut to length But since you know the “traditional trick” ya could cut them down incrementally until they behave and then when they shoot bullet hole close - then nock tune

[@richardcook7437]

If you shoot a Gold Tip in your test load should you shoot them in the end or does it matter what brand of arrows as long as the spine is the same?

[@RanchFairy]

gotta stay brand specific - they aren't all the same

[@richardcook7437]

@@RanchFairy ok, thank you!! Going to be ordering my test kit soon. Love the videos and the great information!!

[@tjrelacion9193]

Ranch fairy Doesn’t Fletching weight and length will stiffen your arrow? And if so wouldn’t that mean that you would have to incorporate that in your bare shaft tune?

[@RanchFairy]

Lots of thoughts on this - most of the time - it takes a lot effort to get the bareshaft running from sideways to close. So let’s get most folks close (from sideways) THEN worry about the details

[@tjrelacion9193]

Went from tarring weak left to straight then tarring stiff right after adding my fletching.

[@RanchFairy]

@@tjrelacion9193 Ok - check vane contact on rest And on face. Check to make sure your string isn’t touching face. Then

[@RanchFairy]

This process with 3 fletch kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmG4ZIprhbl1jLs

[@tjrelacion9193]

@@RanchFairy after a long day I think I figured it out I checked all the things you suggested I didn’t seem to have a contact problem so WhT I did was take 50 grains off the front then used luco tape on the back to mimic my weight of vanes then I was in the ball park. Nock tuned until tomorrow was satisfied. Thanks for the time and help. Went with 4 fletch because of that video you recommended. Appreciate the content

[@decaturridgebees8761]

Nock Tune Baby!

[@carsonschulz6498]

If you break a nock, do you remove the fletching and re-tune bareshaft?

[@rkayser89]

This process, despite the name, is about finding the weak spine line of the shaft. That's the line that the shaft will preferentially deflect on, and cause some travel in that direction, especially with a fixed blade broadhead. So when you set your rest, and then rotate shafts and shoot to find the weak side of the shaft- you're getting all of the shafts oriented the same in relation to their weak spine line. So when they're all oriented the same, they all deflect the same, and all shoot the same place. So if you lose the nock- verify the shaft is still square, throw in a new nock, and try shooting it again.

[@mikeman230]

Theyflygood in your bow but will they fly good out of every bow?

[@RanchFairy]

Fact They won’t - you gotta go find out for yourself - there are no magic one size fits all. I’ve got PILES of videos on arrow tuning. Hope you get a chance to see them

[@gustavoleindecker1179]

if i´ll be use a lighted nock, i tune with it? or i can tune with a regular nock?

[@RanchFairy]

Tune with lighted then shoot stock

[@johnp1839]

Is there anyway to do nock tuning on already fletched arrows?

[@CliffSherlock]

Amazon sells a defletching knife, as well as multiple fletching jigs, and glue. It’s the way.

[@richardlarson6403]

Can you bare shaft knock tune with lighted knocks?

[@RanchFairy]

Richard Larson you bet. Easier thing Once you mark the shaft - the nock position for any nock is the same.

[@gtroxlar8597]

At what yardage did you shoot the nock tuning?

[@RanchFairy]

gtroxlar I shot 10 yards - rarely shoot further

[@nickmatecki7156]

So which tune should be first? Bare shaft tuning or bare shaft nock tune?

[@RanchFairy]

See “the process (update 2021)” video

[@zacharywoodbury7939]

I understand the wizard likes to create his handload by shooting at 21 feet. For bare shaft tuning how far do you stand? I see you might be around 10 yards but cameras always make it seem far. You’ve said you like to just stand at 10 yds for handload, how far for bare shaft tuning?

[@RanchFairy]

Zachary Woodbury 21 feet - I have the video showing me moving the rest around and shooting an elk target - but that’s just for that particular video.

[@zacharywoodbury7939]

Ranch Fairy thank you. Atleast 21 feet for both handload and bare shaft tuning.

[@michaelmccormick2422]

When bare shaft tuning and arrows aren't hitting correctly, how do you know if it is a nock issue or a rest alignment issue?

[@RanchFairy]

Michael McCormick kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHXNhnt5n7h8ldk

[@RanchFairy]

That is a good start

[@whitetailstorm1967]

Bowshop guys hate me now. Lol Ranch fairy laugh

[@markfulcher5532]

If I’m shooting a target with a flat face, can I take a speed square and check my square from my arrow to the target face? If I’m square all the way around the arrow, I should have perfect bare shaft flight right?

[@RanchFairy]

Mark Fulcher So, I think something that accurate would assume we humans are awesome every time!! The trouble with bare shaft tuning is it will show you your inconsistency and you need to shoot multiple shots to basically find common ground.

[@markfulcher5532]

Safe to say then that if I can eyeball it and say it looks straight from the direction of the shot, it’s probably good? Especially in a group where they’re all oriented the same way?

[@markfulcher5532]

Safe to say then that if I can eyeball it and say it looks straight from the direction of the shot, it’s probably good? Especially in a group where they’re all oriented the same way?

[@markfulcher5532]

Holy crap it responded so many times!!!

[@RanchFairy]

Mark Fulcher ha!!! Yes

[@Ironman-fv7hr]

I'm a long time fisherman (been fishing for over 40 years) and newbie bowhunter and love it. Trying to learn and Dr. Ashby's research papers and conclusions seem legit and make sense to me. My question to you is once you nock tuned your arrows, have you ever done a test to see if your nocks are indexed 90 degrees from the spine's weak plane? I'm curious if one can determine the weak plane of the spine on a crude spine tester (which takes less than a 1 minute) or compress the arrow to determine the weak plane of the spine (which takes even less time) and have the same results. This would also allow this frugal person :-) to hopefully cull my arrows that are already fletched (don't have a fletching jig yet) … maybe I'll get lucky and one of the 3 blazer vanes will be close to the strong spine plane. Keep up the good work! Are you aware of any arrow manufactures that fletch the cock vane to either the strong or weak spine plane?

[@RanchFairy]

Ironman2013 I have a fletched nock tune video as well! Look on the thumbnails and the arrow is fletched all white vanes. Yes, if you build a spine indexer it will confirm. Here is my THEORY on bare shaft tuning. You are finding the best “spine” for that particular arrow, with that particular bow, to shoot perfect. That particular arrow!! That’s why I started nock tuning every, individual arrow. It has REALLY helped my consistency and Broadheads behave!! Any more questions - hit me on email. [e-mail]

[@Ironman-fv7hr]

@@RanchFairy Thanks for the quick response Troy! I get to hunt for the first time this season this weekend and this information as helped me.

[@Ironman-fv7hr]

*has helped me.

[@maxprophet2401]

Just got some Victory v-force shafts that say "spine aligned" in line with the cock vane. Not too sure about which spine is aligned parallel and horizontally, I am sure I found the most insane porpoising combination possible at 15 yards. I'm with ya on determining spine plane with crude methods, got lots of arrows I'd rather not cull

[@wiscokid9890]

Can someone tell me wtf FOC means? Been watching and watching videos for Troy to say what it is but nothing! Maybe I'm missing it!? Would help a great deal if I knew what the hell it meant!

[@RanchFairy]

WISCO KID Forward of Center -

[@wiscokid9890]

Thank you

[@marcgulko6893]

What’s the distance you shot at? 20 or 30 yds?

[@RanchFairy]

10 to start ONCE IT BEHAVES and you back up YOU NEED to be realistic…you’re holding the bow. Maybe it’s you!!!

[@mauriciogalarza1287]

Will this change after fletching the arrows?

[@RanchFairy]

Mauricio Galarza Great question. The answer is no. Make sure the mark and nock orientation on the string remains where you found it to fly the best. As always, Make sure your fletch clears your cables, I’ve had a few folks get a bit harried paying attention to the nock tune, they fletched them crazy!! Ha - always learning.

[@jdfranklin5714]

Hey brother love the vids, seems like you and big mike have some really good ideas. I would love to see more Hog bow hunting videos in the future! I also have one question, why shoot such a long arrow when you can drop down one spine to a lighter shaft and trim that extra 4 or 5 inches off to stiffen it into the previous spine and save the 40-50 grains of extra arrow weight and put it up front by using a heavier thicker Broadhead and gaining the FOC? Just a thought, sorry to ramble I’m a big fan of the channel though, keep up the awesome vids and shoot straight!

[@RanchFairy]

JD Franklin Tuning arrows for a subscriber with long arms!!!!

[@WickadyWilt16]

Nock tune or spine index?

[@RanchFairy]

shoot and nock tune

[@dkwat3703]

I just started watching your show. Will all or some of the arrow tuning work with a long now

[@RanchFairy]

DK Wat kzbin.info/www/bejne/iV66lqR7q6hripo

[@sixgunluvr1]

I know everyone calls it nock tuning…but. Whether you use bare shaft, fletched shaft or broadhead tipped shaft. Aren’t you really “shaft” tuning. For example some people turn the arrow on the bow, the nock doesn’t move…so it’s actually the shaft that is being indexed, not the nock. What say you?

[@RanchFairy]

This is correct. Youre adjusting the bending rate of the arrow.

[@sixgunluvr1]

Actually….you’re adjusting the orientation of the flexing of the arrow(shaft indexing)rather than the ‘rate’ yes?

[@voxpopuli905]

Troy is really stirring the pot lol a bunch of other bow channels are trying to make the claim that FOC and weight are bogus and not needed. Sean McVeig who I happen to like has made a video in response to mine and several others comments about this content. He kinda jumped the gun and made some assumptions and went on to show a big tuning process under the assumption that ppl are focused on making heavy arrows but forgetting to go through a tuning process which is totally inaccurate. Troy is making shit loads of content based on nothing but tuning, and achieving perfect arrow flight. Plus added weight based on how YOUR bow responds and behaves. Nobody said make a 600 thousand grain arrow and don’t worry about tuning. Nobody said you neeeeeeed 1000 grains. He’s just demonstrating what it can do. The rest is up to you to decide if that’s what you want or need. It’s just information to digest and try. Not be bogged down in one thing only 🙄

[@RanchFairy]

Vox Populi Excellent

[@2amendment1960]

Arent you actually finding the spine of the arrow, and indexing it? Have you initially found the spine and marked it,,just to see if that is what lines up?