Range Rover L322 - How to Replace the Front Suspension Arm

[@normanc5706]

The bolt at the inner end of the control arm should not be tightened up until the vehicle is at normal height.

[@philfish6619]

why?

[@jimmyjames2303]

@@philfish6619 Because the rubber of the bush then won't be under stress when the vehicle is at normal height, allowing it to flex with minimum stress in either direction. If you tighten the bolt when the wheel is hanging down, the rubber will be under constant stress when the weight of the vehicle is placed upon it when it's taken off of the ramp. Result will be premature failure of the bush.

[@waynelord2414]

Thanks guys for posting this job. However you leave out the MOST difficult step! You glance over it by showing the tools. The most difficult step, in my opinion, is how to separate the ball joint shank from the arm. I have 2 of the tools you show. One of which (the fork) will almost certainly destroy (puncture) the rubber boot on the ball joint, so guaranteed to be lifting the truck up again in 18 months , to replace that joint. The other tool is difficult to position so that it “bites” strong enough and not slip off shank !! To be fair I am trying to tackle the other lower arm and not the one you show but I see the same issues.., shank separation is hardest part of the job!

[@taylorsova1205]

The new arm comes with a new ball joint and new rubber boot on the ball joint. It should not be an issue if you ruin the old rubber boot during removal.

[@waynelord2414]

@@taylorsova1205 correct, indeed. Not an issue for the arm being replaced, in the video. I was struggling with the removal of the other (upper arm? The long curvy one) at the time. On that one it does not come with the large ball joint it connects to.

[@ikeneave6904]

@@waynelord2414 just bought the set of all 4 arms and it did come with two new upper arm ball joints to replace too. You should probably replace these anyway as the ball is where you're going to find wear and rattling.

[@jimmyjames2303]

@@ikeneave6904 As mentioned above, the hammer-in fork splitter is always going to split the boot, but it's possible to replace the boot and repack with grease if that's the only tool you have. There are a number of ways to crack the taper on these, or any other vehicle, but often a combination of a decent splitter, a bit of gentle heat (avoiding the rubber boot, of course - plumber's heat mats are useful), and some taps with a hammer and drift/vibrate with an air chisel will shock it free.

[@thiagobartolo]

Do you have an opinion on replacing differential fluid on the L322? If you do so, at what mileage/time intervals would be adequate to do this service? Thanks again.

[@MrBraddersmartin]

Will replacing this stop the front end 'clunk' at slow speed or do we also need to change sway bar link ball joints (2012 4.4V Diesel) Thanks

[@RimmerBrosTV]

A clunk at slow speeds could have a number of causes. We would recommend you seek diagnosis of this clunk from one of your local garages.

[@thiagobartolo]

Hello, could worn bushings on control arms explain worse fuel consumption? Thanks for the excellent video.

[@darrensmith2141]

Do you have to replace both sides or just one

[@tommy4244]

I always tend to do both sides as if onside has failed the other side will not be far behind..

[@jattwhiskey604]

I need to get my control arm replaced. I do have a few question. Are there any extra parts needed such as tie rods or bolts or is just one part. Thanks

[@RimmerBrosTV]

This video that we have produced should answer all of your questions kzbin.info/www/bejne/eambYamQrJZ_hZI