Raspberry Pi GameBoy DMG-01 Build Overview And Demonstration

[@atrandom1973]

This was a great inspiration for my build Stuart, thank you!

[@Scream1077]

Really impressive video. Prob best KZbin one I've seen. Just wanted to ask how much project is likely to cost. Build time and if you've sorted any problems you mentioned at the end. I am an extreme amateur to this and all pi related things but a lover of old games so thinking of having a crack at this. Any tips advice is welcome, thanks

[@MrStuartFox]

+Scream1077 This took me just over a month, working evenings and weekends and the odd day off. The reason it took so long was that I went down the a long road with the PiTFT screen which I then judged to be unsuitable for many reasons. If I build another now, knowing exactly which parts I was using, I think it would take a week or two if that. The cost is outlined in my video comments along with links to get most or the bits I used. This is a tricky project in many ways, your soldering has to be fairly good... I thought I'd get away with less by just plugging things in to the pi, but there just isn't enough room for that. Slimming down the Pi is a challenge so maybe consider another Pi model, the Pi Zero wasn't out when I built this, but it might be worth looking into, sound may be an issue though. I got audio directly from the board underneath the Pi's headphone jack, the Pi Zero is TINY, and hasn't got any audio out filters so no headphone jack. It's HDMI only so your options would be to get an HDMI audio extractor which might take up too much room, or do a bit of circuitry to recreate the missing audio out on the Pi Zero. Details here: learn.adafruit.com/introducing-the-raspberry-pi-zero/audio-outputs OR if you use composite video, this might help: shop.pimoroni.com/collections/raspberry-pi/products/phat-dac RE Cost, I've given all the links in the description. Cost me more my first time because I broke some things and ordered the wrong bits. I'd plan for doing the same on your first attempt. Do lots of reading up and practice soldering on junk boards. It was frustrating, and I've built projects before (not as fiddly as this) so patience is key. Good luck, and post when you've got something so show off :-)

[@Scream1077]

+Stuart Fox cheers for that. Last part of message cut off there sadly. Think I may look into the pi zero. My soldering is ok but think I'll manage that bit. Just the technology that confuses me a little. Didn't know about the zero so cheers for that. Seems like a good option but will prob need some "bolt ons" by the sound of it if that is achievable. Will do som research myself before starting but thanks for tips.

[@MrStuartFox]

+Scream1077 seems I waffled too much :-) you can get audio from the zero like this: learn.adafruit.com/introducing-the-raspberry-pi-zero/audio-outputs There are also da converters and hdmi audio strippers. Good luck, post something when you have something to show off.

[@Daniheavey]

thanks this was a really useful video just ordered some of these parts so i can build my own :)

[@MrStuartFox]

+Dan Heavey I want to see it when it's finished :-)

[@alanhammerton]

Fantastic job!

[@roofields8468]

Very impressive!

[@stephenjameschew]

Hi Stuart. So many choices of screen.. Where did you get yours on if you didn't use the adafruit one? Also, where in the UK did you find the common ground dmg board.. been looking for ages but with no luck.

[@MrStuartFox]

+Stephen Chew hi, sorry I thought I'd already replied. It's this screen I think.. www.pi-supply.com/product/adafruit-ntscpal-television-tft-display-2-0-diagonal/?aelia_cs_currency=GBP&feed_country=GB&gclid=CK-Rhu-frMwCFesV0wodh5wJ8Q

[@MrStuartFox]

+Stephen Chew RE the Common Ground DMG, I just ordered that from the states. It took a little while but it got here safely. There are none in the UK for sale as far as I could see.

[@stephenjameschew]

+Stuart Fox no worries.. found a similar one off another build from eBay so used that. thanks for the inspiration to start (and hopefully finish) the build

[@stephenjameschew]

+Stuart Fox yeah did the same in the end

[@cage75film]

Well done, Stu!

[@lukechesney88]

Hi Stuart! Just a quick question. How were you able to convert the button presses to input with the Teensy? By any chance could you send me the code you used to do that? (I plan on building a similar thing) Thanks!

[@stuartfox1686]

Hi Luke, post it when you're done:-) here's the code - you'll probably want to adapt it for your needs: /* Buttons to USB Keyboard Example You must select Keyboard from the "Tools > USB Type" menu This example code is in the public domain. */ #include // Create Bounce objects for each button. The Bounce object // automatically deals with contact chatter or "bounce", and // it makes detecting changes very simple. Bounce button0 = Bounce(0, 10); Bounce button1 = Bounce(1, 10); // 10 = 10 ms debounce time Bounce button2 = Bounce(2, 10); // which is appropriate for Bounce button3 = Bounce(3, 10); // most mechanical pushbuttons Bounce button4 = Bounce(4, 10); Bounce button5 = Bounce(5, 10); // if a button is too "sensitive" Bounce button6 = Bounce(6, 10); // to rapid touch, you can Bounce button7 = Bounce(7, 10); // increase this time. Bounce button8 = Bounce(8, 10); Bounce button9 = Bounce(9, 10); Bounce button10 = Bounce(10, 10); Bounce button11 = Bounce(11, 10); void setup() { // Configure the pins for input mode with pullup resistors. // The pushbuttons connect from each pin to ground. When // the button is pressed, the pin reads LOW because the button // shorts it to ground. When released, the pin reads HIGH // because the pullup resistor connects to +5 volts inside // the chip. LOW for "on", and HIGH for "off" may seem // backwards, but using the on-chip pullup resistors is very // convenient. The scheme is called "active low", and it's // very commonly used in electronics... so much that the chip // has built-in pullup resistors! pinMode(0, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(1, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(2, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(3, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(4, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(5, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(6, INPUT_PULLUP); // Teensy++ LED, may need 1k resistor pullup pinMode(7, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(8, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(9, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(10, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(11, INPUT_PULLUP); } void loop() { // Update all the buttons. There should not be any long // delays in loop(), so this runs repetitively at a rate // faster than the buttons could be pressed and released. button0.update(); button1.update(); button2.update(); button3.update(); button4.update(); button5.update(); button6.update(); button7.update(); button8.update(); button9.update(); button10.update(); button11.update(); // Check each button for "falling" edge. // Type a message on the Keyboard when each button presses // Update the Joystick buttons only upon changes. // falling = high (not pressed - voltage from pullup resistor) // to low (pressed - button connects pin to ground) if (button0.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_LEFT); } if (button1.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_UP); } if (button2.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_DOWN); } if (button3.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_RIGHT); } if (button4.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_A); } if (button5.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_B); } if (button6.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_1); } if (button7.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_2); } if (button8.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_3); } if (button9.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_4); } if (button10.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_5); } if (button11.fallingEdge()) { Keyboard.press(KEY_6); } // Check each button for "rising" edge // Type a message on the Keyboard when each button releases. // For many types of projects, you only care when the button // is pressed and the release isn't needed. // rising = low (pressed - button connects pin to ground) // to high (not pressed - voltage from pullup resistor) if (button0.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_LEFT); } if (button1.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_UP); } if (button2.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_DOWN); } if (button3.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_RIGHT); } if (button4.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_A); } if (button5.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_B); } if (button6.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_1); } if (button7.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_2); } if (button8.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_3); } if (button9.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_4); } if (button10.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_5); } if (button11.risingEdge()) { Keyboard.release(KEY_6); } }

[@lukechesney88]

+Stuart Fox Thanks so much! Just to clarify this will be pins 1-11 on the Teensy board

[@MrStuartFox]

+Luke Chesney wait.... KZbin has cut off half of the code!!! Lol. I'll pm you

[@lukechesney88]

Okay! Thanks!!

[@chuckbartholomew]

Sorry for the noob question, but I can't find the answer anywhere. Does the composite out on the Pi use the GPU like the HDMI does?

[@MrStuartFox]

Yes, the composite out does use the gpu. It's screens using the gpio that you might have issues with bypassing the gpu.

[@Casperdroid5]

Chuck Bartholomew Jep. But What does iT matter?

[@Sanchees3]

Great job ! How did you wire the video to the tv ? I know the Pi has 3.5mm connection so how did you do this ?

[@MrStuartFox]

I soldered wires directly to the raspberry pi!

[@MrStuartFox]

Hey... The 3.5" audio jack plug on the pi2 has composite on it, I soldered directly onto the back of the pi.

[@Sanchees3]

+Stuart Fox Which point would I need to solder ?

[@MrStuartFox]

+Sanchees3 dm me and I'll send you some pictures.

[@Spongegoose]

Hey Stuart, do you mind sending those pictures to me as well? I figured out how to solder a composite display to my Zero, but not my Pi 3.

[@jules678]

Hi, Awesome job!I am currently half way through a similar build, and one thing I cannot seem to get over is how to gracefully shutdown RetroPie with a power switch. Have you done anything one this? Or are you just using the power switch to cut power to the pie?Thanks!

[@MrStuartFox]

+Mechdude I wired the switch into the powerboats 1000c board ( www.adafruit.com/products/2465 ) which means that the battery can still be charged when the gameboy is switched off. Sadly though, this is still a dirty shut down. I'm sure there is a way of triggering a clean shut down but I didn't find a way.

[@jules678]

+Stuart Fox Awesome same as me, guess I am still looking lol thanks again!

[@IdmediaNo]

Awesome build! I'm actually in the middle of building my own trying not to modify the GameBoy exterior case too much while trying to fit a Pi2. I see you are showing off both SNES and N64, but I guess that's just for fun as playing them would require a lot more than 2 buttons. Or do you have a trick up your sleeve? :)

[@MrStuartFox]

Well, I was originally planning extra buttons, but like you I wanted to keep the case mods to a minimum and also the inside is full... Very full so I'm leaving it as is. Some n64, mega drive, send games actually only need two buttons.... But yes, you're right, mario kart 64 needs more. You can plug a controller into the usb port but there's enough games which will work on the original controls to keep you entertained. Next plan is to make a mini raspberry pi 3 arcade machine ( table top) and poss even a 3D printed portable... That way I can add all the buttons in the world. Good luck with yours.... I'd like to see it when it's ready:-)

[@IdmediaNo]

+Stuart Fox Sure thing, thanks for the reply. I know what you mean when you say that the inside is full... it will be hard to get everything to fit. Thought about trying to get hold of a Raspberry Pi Zero in order to save som space, but it's still out of stock almost everywhere... Well.. once I get the case I've ordered then the fun begins! :)

[@MrStuartFox]

+IDmedia the raspberry pi 3 has inbuilt wifi and Bluetooth. I'd use that because the zero would need extra wiring and components for sound anyway. Without the extra wifi that I included, it would have been easier! You'll still need to remove the usb and Ethernet ports though which is a little tricky. I know you're not adding extra buttons, but there are still more modern games that will work with the dmg01s controls just fine and it's always nice to have enough power. I'd install heat syncs on the chips where you can though.

[@IdmediaNo]

+Stuart Fox I know, but the size of the Zero makes it tempting to use. I think it should be more than powerful enough for GB/GBC/NES and the few others I intend to add. However, I see the issue with sound and some other which makes the Pi2 or 3 more preferable. Don't really care about Wifi/BT, but I think about another feature that would be awesome. If I'm able to make everything fit, I want to support original GB/GBC games. So if you insert it, the Pi will detect it's title, copy over the save game and launch the rom with the same name (so I don't have to wait for the whole dump). When you exit the game or the file changes the save game is written back to the cartridge. It's mostly a gimmick, but I think it's quite cool as long as I can fit everything in the case without modding it. I also plan to build my own case using a 3D printer that allows more games and that's where I'm going to rely on the Pi3 for Wifi/BT... :)

[@MrStuartFox]

+IDmedia there was someone on one of the retro pages on Facebook who I was talking to who'd made only that reads the cartridges. He explained how he did it but it went over my head!

[@MartinKidd]

What did you use the epoxy stick for? Is it similar stuff to sugru?

[@MrStuartFox]

+Martin Kidd I originally used hot glue to put the charging board (which has the charging jack attached) in place, but when it got warm inside the case, the glue went soft enough so that the jack would disappear inside the case when you tried to plug it in, so this was mounted on a mound of epoxy plastic resin which worked perfectly. It was also used to build up structural parts, such as a platform for the usb port to sit on inside the case, and also to hold it in place.

[@MartinKidd]

+Stuart Fox Awesome, thanks!

[@DiyintheGhetto]

Hello with the screen size how much Screen does it lose? Because it looks like part of the LCD is hidden. The other question i have is that how long does the battery last being that the LCD and Raspberry pi take a lot of current and i also forgot the Teensy and Audio amp?

[@MrStuartFox]

+joseph chrzempiec (josephchrzempiec) all the view-able area of the screen is visible, I got it as close as I could to the edge, so no screen loss at all. I've never timed it - but it's well over an hour... maybe even two.

[@DiyintheGhetto]

That's awesome man thank you.

[@MrStuartFox]

+joseph chrzempiec (josephchrzempiec) if you only want to play Nintendo, master system, gameboy games... Then the pi zero would be fine (you'd need to do a bit of circuitry to take the audio out of the pi's expansion or use a sound card expansion board, but even then, the zero should be even better on battery.

[@DiyintheGhetto]

I'm building one soon. mine will have 2 of the 2.7v square batteries each one has 3900 mah for a combine total of 7900 mah hours i hope that should be enough for at least 4 hours of play time It fits in the battery part i did but a little i do not have a pi zero hard to get one for me and ebay there like 40 dollars. No one not even adafruit has one. Sense I only buy from the Us and not china i hate waiting for shipping.

[@95ZR580]

thats pretty cool dude

[@kastorilo]

Hi, is there a tutorial on how to build this Raspberry Pi gameboy together? Cheers

[@MrStuartFox]

Hi, here are some useful tutorials: learn.adafruit.com/pigrrl-raspberry-pi-gameboy/overview m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/iInTmH98pbh1frs blog.adafruit.com/2015/03/02/new-tutorial-raspberry-gear-upgrade-your-sega-game-gear-with-a-raspberry-pi-and-3-5-inch-tft-display-raspberrypi/

[@kastorilo]

+Stuart Fox Thanks, I currently have a Gameboy Colour, would the pi fit? or am I asking for a really small area of space to work it...

[@MrStuartFox]

+Marcus Chia depends which model of pi... The zero would be fine but you'd have to think about sound. There is a hack to give you a line output from the zero... learn.adafruit.com/adding-basic-audio-ouput-to-raspberry-pi-zero

[@kastorilo]

+Stuart Fox I'm not sure which model tbh, it seems like the zero is sold out everywhere :/ Was thinking the pi 2 or 3, but I would have to remove all the extras so it would fit

[@MrStuartFox]

+Marcus Chia the zero is in stock now in the uk at least. I had a job getting the two to fit in my dmg01 case even after removing usb and Ethernet, but with the 3, you won't have to squeeze in wifi which will help! If you get a 3, you can always try it and get a zero as a backup plan. The zeros are not exactly expensive;-)

[@danielliens5360]

I am doing a similar project putting a pi in a mega drive. I am struggling with the on/off button. any advice or videos I can watch? I'm new to this stuff!! thanks!

[@MrStuartFox]

www.raspberry-pi-geek.com/Archive/2013/01/Adding-an-On-Off-switch-to-your-Raspberry-Pi There's some reading. There are a few off the shelf pi switches about. Google is your friend.

[@danielliens5360]

I've Google it a few times but not had a clear answer mate.

[@MrStuartFox]

I wired in a switch via an adafruit 100c charging board. This is designed to run with a battery and a power input though. I'm pretty sure I came across a ready made power switch kit somewhere. I'll keep an eye out and copy you the link if I see it.

[@danielliens5360]

Thanks Stuart.

[@sos.gamers]

you can simply wire the USB cable that you are going to use for Power to the switch :v

[@mike5im5]

Hi Stuart, I've got the same screen as you. I removed the step down chip and soldered the 5v and ground to an adafruit powerboost 1000 (got a 2000mAh battery ready once this is working). Backlight stays on I connect a 5v micro usb to the powerboost. However when I wired/soldered the composite to the raspberry pi zero. I only get the white back light screen. If I move the screen/ribbon around I sometimes get the image so the pi is definitely outputting analogue but when I let go it goes back to the blank backlight. You think my ribbon is busted or is this a power issue?

[@MrStuartFox]

+Mike Sims Hi Mike, Defiantly sounds like the ribbon connector. Have you tried disconnecting it from the board, blowing out anything that might have got in there and re attaching the ribbon. You unclip the two plastic tabs to remove the ribbon... sorry if I'm stating the obvious. Mine stopped working as I was still building, and although the solder connections I'd made to the points where the step down chip used to be looked ok physically, applying heat to those joints carefully fixed the issue.

[@mike5im5]

+Stuart Fox Resoldered and no difference. I think the ribbon has been pinched and sliced as it's getting worse. What a shame! I'm thinking of trying to canabolise a screen from something like this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322019516214 , if it runs of the 3.7v battery it must be possible to easily convert it to run of the 5V supply.. plus you get a battery too.

[@isaak_hlr]

Hey there. Quick question. How did you wire the screen to the pi?

[@Casperdroid5]

Rydel Photography he used the Compisite video pin on the back, just Search on Google

[@aeki8842]

What did you study to know all of this about electronic and all? I'd like to study something about making this machines

[@Casperdroid5]

✪ Aeki™ its easier than iT looks. Just Google a lot. Im seventeen And I (Made) am making something simular

[@ukrs]

Did you get stereo sound?

[@Casperdroid5]

ukrs there is no need. Most old games have only mono sound

[@mikeschilleman9400]

Do you find there is any lag?

[@MrStuartFox]

Nope:-)

[@TheKosmonauti]

how can i mute sound on speaker when i plug in earphone? (i dont have gameboy pcb ) +Stuart Fox

[@MrStuartFox]

You need an earphone socket that has two terminals that break a circuit when the plug is inserted. These are available from most component stores such as cpc, Maplin etc

[@TheKosmonauti]

Stuart Fox whats name of that pcb?

[@TheKosmonauti]

Or if you can send me link

[@MrStuartFox]

So you wire a jack socket to the pis audio output, and use the switch terminals to break the speaker circuit... any jack socket with a switch will work... like this one r.ebay.com/6Krw7a

[@TheKosmonauti]

i didnt really get you, can you draw it in paint or someting. ( sorry if iam boring )

[@sodomakgomora2995]

hello my friend i try to download roms from same sites but nothing can you help me whare i find?? ty a lot and i love your work :D i try to do the same with raspberry pi 3

[@MrStuartFox]

Google is your friend!

[@sodomakgomora2995]

+Stuart Fox i try from here www.emuparadise.me/roms-isos-games.php but nothing maybe i dont do the process right but i just pick the zip fille from this site kai i copy to folder of roms at usb and i plug to raspberry but nothing :(

[@MrStuartFox]

+Nikos I assume you are using retro pie? If so, you need to create a folder on the root of your sub stick called Retropie Then, with Retropie running, insert the sun stick into your pie. Wait a minute. Now when you plug the stick back into your computer you should see a bunch of folders in your Retropie folder, all with different system names. Put the roms in the corresponding folders.

[@sodomakgomora2995]

+Stuart Fox yes i do like this i have at my usb the folder with name retropie and i plug to my pi and after 5 min i plug to my pc to transer roms but after i plug againe to raspberry run retropie but no games

[@MrStuartFox]

Check that USB memory stick service (or what ever it's called) is enabled in the retropie settings, also ensure that you have the correct roms for the emulator and version number. If you still have an issue, you may want to try writing a clean image of the latest retropie onto your SD card and starting fresh.

[@ShamblerBowler]

Now You could use a 3A+

[@paramediccpo]

Would you sell this

[@MrStuartFox]

+paramediccpo Sorry.... this ones MINE!!!! I was half considering doing another maybe for charity.... but this won't be anytime soon. It's way more satisfying to make your own :-) I'll be happy to share SD images, the teensy3.1 code to run the buttons etc etc...

[@mtavsen]

I have bought alot of items for it, but I still need to buy more parts for $100, and then shipping it... Its expencive! So my project has to be put on hold for a while.

[@radiocontenidos]

I like donkey Kong!

[@billylindeman]

I'm doing my build with a pitft and there is a way to utilize the OpenGL processing. Theres a tool called rpi-fbcp and it basically ties in directly to the videocore and dumps out the videocore framebuffer to the pitft framebuffer. github.com/tasanakorn/rpi-fbcp With a pi setup like this once fbcp is started your pitft will just mirror what is being output on hdmi / composite.

[@MrStuartFox]

Yes, this was a real issue to get working back when I built this. I've heard it's easier now. You still loose some video acceleration don't you?