CTEK MXS5.0 Updated Version Repair

[@darkprince3131]

I needed a car battery charger, so did some quick research and saw ctek being recommended everywhere, had good reviews, 5y warranty. Seemed like the best choice. So last night I ordered mxs 5.0 Today I got a call from the shop that they would recommend Noco genius5 instead of the ctek as it was a better quality product. I was suspicious at first. Why would I buy a product with 3y warranty when ctek has 5y and all the good things I read about it? They probably want to sell me some crap they can't sell otherwise. Just in case, I started researching again. Most comparisons online are very superficial and generally boil down to that both are reputable brands, have good reviews and doesn't really matter which one you get. Well, your videos helped me make my choice and confirm that the seller really wanted me to get a product with better quality. So I called back and change my order to Noco. Thank you.

[@razenby]

The CTEK needs a 5 year warranty as it will probably fail at least twice ahh but it is very shiny and there are many lights and look those marketing claims .... How can it not be what I need?

[@markdauncey927]

Another great video - Thanks. It never ceases to amaze me how much Ctek cheapen the build cost of what they pitch as a premium product. I had a screw togetherCtek and I think it got moisture inside because the gasket had a crimp in it - pity I didn't spot that before leaving it hooked up to a car in a 'tent garage'

[@razenby]

Thanks. I have an instinctive dislike for companies that do not respect their customers. A sure way to blow one of these supplies is to leave it out in an environment subject to humidity and temperature variations. If you do it will have blown after a week or two. As they heat and cool these products breathing the atmosphere. Moist air is drawn in, the temperature drops and that turns to condensation. The cycle continues.... If you put it in a thin plastic bag with silica gel sachets this will stop it happening. Don't wrap it - just have a single layer between the charger an the outside air. Then it will go on and on until a mains transient arrives and then blow up!!

[@markdauncey927]

@@razenby Amazingly it did a few years if I remember rightly - I think it was under the bonnet.

[@monitorgroup7257]

Great video! I have an MXS 5.0 updated version just like this one. First time I was about to use it and, wrongly assuming it was bivolt, I plugged a 110V charger on a 220V power supply. The thing is not working anymore as expected. Do you have an idea on what blew up onside?

[@razenby]

That is a surprise to me. I thought they they were universal input (110-230V). I just looked and that CTEKs aren't - The product is engineered to a lower standard than the low standard I thought (if that is possible). Another reason to buy a Noco - they are universal input.

[@Trev5]

Thanks for the heads up about the lack if IP rating.... 👍 For information, I purchased another UK MX5.0 charger ~2 months ago after the previous one started buzzing and new one was fitted with a 13Amp fuse - Keep meaning to drop it to 5 Amp...

[@razenby]

Interesting. If you use it outside for any length of time (even under cover) then put it in a very thin polythene bag with some silica gel. Don't wrap it - just a single layer around. Then it might be working when you next look. The 13A fuse in the plug is intended to prevent the power cord catching fire. The fuse inside the unit protects the internal components. Definitely not CE approved product if they are supplying a device fitted with a 5A cable and a 13A fuse in the mains plug!

[@ohenenorb]

@@razenby It is simply not right engineering to fit a 30A fuse on the output wire of a charger that's rated 5A . Interestingly, CTEK uses the same 30A for all the models in their MXS series chargers - from MXS 5.0 through MXS 7.0 to MXS 25.0 . Why ???

[@yourkodi3945]

@@ohenenorb whould you still buy ctek or noco?, also are you saying we should change the fuse to 5a?

[@ohenenorb]

@@yourkodi3945 I will still choose CTEK . However I will ignore the warranty on it , and open it up , and if the fuse is 25A , I will replace it. I am using a 10A auto fuse in place of the 25A which was factory installed, and have used my MXS 7.0 to successfully charged 12V 200AH deep cycle GEL batteries ( 10pcs ) . So I stand by my point ; the 25A fuse is way too high .

[@budgiefish]

Don't know if you know but at least one MXS5.0 board uses UM05 - LUMA105 fast recovery diode on the snubber, only 50v but 30A max, seems like they were trying to achieve a current rating over voltage as you deducted in a previous video... Got a unit for repair with such a UM05 which hasn't shorted - this one it looks like the FET shorted (800V 6A 0.9ohm rds), it's also taken out driver transistor, switching controller IC 1271, and then two of the rectifier diodes gave out and of course the fuse - nice for the rectifiers to die before the fuse (more underrated components)! Secondary side is fine.. My other dead unit has the US1M snubber but not checked which FET they chose on that one yet - that one is trying to start up - sensing overcurrent so shutting down immediately - no shorts on snubber and winding must be ok in order to kick the controller into action with its 9v supply. I am thinking swap the snubber just to see, in case there's reverse breakdown short at voltage - I must build that HV capacitor leakage tester I've been planning on for years - that'd highlight such a breakdown nicely I think :) Failing that I'll swap the FET too but not feeling how that would cause overcurrent unless it's switching off slowly (haven't studied the traces on the scope yet). [update] turns out the 0.47 Ohm current sense resistor had gone high resistance, doh!, so naturally it is going to see overcurrent.. whilst waiting for the replacement I swapped out temporarily for 1/4w carbon 1 ohm figuring that'll equal 1A current limit and that one is now working fine... that was the only failure, curiously! The 47K resistors on snubber network are the warmest thing on the board at full tilt, then I guess there is a fair current through them! Makes me wary about that UM05 on the other one though, I don't see any other obvious design change, and there's around 700V peaks across the US1M on the now-working one! They're definitely building these with whatever parts they get for the cheapest at the time I think, there doesn't appear to be much consistency!

[@razenby]

I agree.. It is a strange thing. They seem to have tackled the poor design with a warranty policy. Not a well constructed brand.

[@nickjanssens]

A really interesting presentation. My CTEK has an power issue, in that normally works perfectly, but…if the mains power cable at the CTEK unit is touched, I loose all functions, twiddle with it, functions restored, does the bung give access to anything that might rectify?

[@razenby]

If the cable looks to be in good condition with no nicks in the insulation or kinks then it sounds as though there may be a bad solder joint inside the charger. The build quality of these chargers is not good.

[@coppo675]

just bought another mxs 5.0 after my mode switch failed on the old one. online store was selling them for $127.00.. so price is ok. I cracked open the old one prior to ordering new one. tried the contact cleaner trick on the mode switch , did not work.. still only running as a auto mode charger.. also noticed alot of general discoloration on the pcb joints etc that you would expect with exposure to moisture, but the unit has always been looked after, still looks brand new on outside. have you see n/ done any testing on the NOCO brand genius 5 charger?

[@razenby]

Yes, have a look on the channel there are plenty of Noco 5 videos. It comes down to ratinging IP65 when it isn't . See video. You can see the moisture testing.

[@NameSurname-hh6lt]

What is the rating of the ceramic capacitor on the high side, after the 4702 (47kΩ) resistor?

[@clee6746]

Finally got a chance to look at the inside of the prestigious brand of chargers, it's definitely way over-priced !

[@razenby]

Indeed it is. An expensive piece of cheap design.

[@domvarazzani]

Hello, thank you for these videos, I am a beginner in electronics and I have a cteck MX 5.0 charger on which I have the diode just above the one you changed (on your video) which broke but the reference which is noted above is not recognized!GP335! can you give me some info on this one? thank you in advance.Dom sorry for the translation (google)

[@razenby]

I can find a GP335 referenced anywhere.Is that the index marking on the part?

[@domvarazzani]

​@@razenby bonsoir, merci de votre réponse oui c'est la référence de la diode ,j'ai chercher sur internet mais pas trouvé, j'ai remplacé par US1M ,j'ai commandé le mosfet 04N60C3 ainsi que NCP 1271A et je ferais un essai good evening, thank you for your answer yes it is the reference of the diode, I searched on the internet but did not find it, I replaced it with US1M, I ordered the mosfet 04N60C3 as well as NCP 1271A and I will give it a try

[@ohenenorb]

I have CTEK MXS 7.0 . Having watch various videos and read operating manuals of the different models of CTEK MXS series of automatic battery chargers , I am of the opinion that CTEK owns all its customers who have any of the models up to MXS 25 an explanation as to why all these have 30A fuse soldered on the DC output . It is 30A for MXS 5.0 which is rated maximum output current 5A . It is same 30A on my model ( MXS 7.0 ) which is rated maximum output 7A . It is same 30A fuse on the models MXS 10 and MXS 25 , which have rated output 10A and 25A respectively. Why should a charger that has rated output current of 5A be fitted with a 30A fuse ? I believe this contributes to blowing of components such as capacitors , instead of the fuse on the output wires. After replacing the 3 capacitors ( 16v 2000uf) in my MXS 7.0 , I replaced the fuse with a 10A fuse . It is more cost effective for the fuse to blow than a component like a capacitor or diode to blow .

[@razenby]

The fuse is to likely there to protect against burn up the output switching components in the event of a fault.

[@peterrees315]

Hi - I have a an MXS5.0 (the type where the bottom unscrews) - there is a large power resistor that sits next to the heatsink. Do you have any idea what value it should be as its burnt out and I presume this is the reason it has no signs of life. Great videos by the way.

[@razenby]

It is not the cause. It is the result of the catastrophic failure of the power switching MOSFET. If the mains fuse is good when you replace the resistor and turn it on again it will go bank. You need to check and change all the semiconductors in the SMPS side before you turn it on. The 20 12 large SMD resistor on the underside is 0.47 Ohms. (470 milliohms)

[@kenlam6689]

Thank you for your sharing. My CTEK MXS5.0 was fault of mode button. It unable to selecting just stay in normal. Do me a favor. Could you tell me what kind "Mode" button and a mode? Thank you so much.

[@razenby]

Just a standard low profile tact switch..

[@kenlam6689]

@@razenby Thank you !

[@penkopenkov9734]

Great video,can you give me advice why fuse,diodes and transistor are burned after plugin device in the socket,it happened 2 times?

[@razenby]

If one device goes in the primary switching side it is necessary to check semiconductors and resistors and replace the main transistor, zener diode, PWM drive chip, snubber diode etc. Otherwise when you plug in will burn-up again.

[@paulscot9417]

I'm in the market for a charger, but having just seen a couple of your videos😕 is there one you would recommend? Cheers

[@razenby]

The information you need is mostly in the video. You most likely have a blown power board as it is very common. I repair a lot of them.

[@paulscot9417]

@@razenby HI thanks for the reply! But I haven't bought one yet I was hoping you would recommend a good charger? Cheers

[@paulmuff9883]

Brilliant, have you come across a similar charger called Honda very expensive, I’ve had 3 for about 13 years and twos just stopped working within the last year 😥 how do I get in touch with you please? Cheers Paul

[@razenby]

Are you talking about the Honda Optimate 5 stop start 12v battery charger/optimiser?

[@paulmuff9883]

@@razenby yes optimate 5

[@thomash5484]

Great video! What kind of lacquer are you using?

[@razenby]

Thanks. Just clear polyurethane spray.

[@MrMsek]

Great video. I bought second hand ctek powersport which is buzzing each second and lights yellow and green along with the buzz. Any chance we could contact so you can drive me to solution?

[@razenby]

You probably have shorted output side but that is just a guess. I don't have any spare time at the moment. I cant get the chips we need so I have to switch processor vendor and type in all our products. Dumping the AVR family!!

[@MrMsek]

@@razenby I just ruled out shottky diode on radiator as I used other one and it was same result quick flashing of two diodes. Out of curiosity I have powered on device when diodes were out and it was buzzing but I was able to change modes. So definitely something on dc/output side. Any tips?

[@kellyanderson7115]

I was just thinking that the US market CTEK MXS 5.0 may be a bit less problematic since the AC input is half the voltage of the UK market chargers.

[@razenby]

Yes, likely to be true. It is a bit of a case of swings and roundabouts. For many years the supply voltage for single-phase supplies in the UK has been 240V +/- 6%, giving a possible spread of voltage from 226V to 254 V. Then because of the EU normalisation 230VAZ our spec was changed. Now in the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253 volts. Often at my house is is 260VAC. I cant find any detailed for spec for countries in the EU except it is 230V AC but nominally 220VAC. Consider that the peak voltage inside the electronics rises at 1.4 x the input RMS, So yes, we suffer reliability issues in the UK especially on products designed for the EU market. There are many advantages of running higher wattage supplies on a 100V mains voltage.

[@hyphensclassics]

Mine has just died, not that old, but they have put a red plastic cover over one of the case screws, will have to drill it to get to the screw

[@razenby]

Good luck with the repair. The electronics in these is very poorly thought out and cheaply manufactured.

[@hyphensclassics]

@@razenby noted from your videos! I will check my warranty first and then have a look, but electronic repair is something I did many moons ago!! You mind find I send you a box of bits 😂

[@axelfoley1768]

So mate tell us, what is the best smart charger for car batteries, Noco, Ctek or some other 🥴

[@razenby]

Cant say I haven't tested them all. I own Noco and Ctek. I use the Noco as both my Cteks blew up when support charging. The Noco is a better design with more accurate voltage sensing.

[@axelfoley1768]

I ended-up buying Victron. Great Auto-Detection features & charging performance. Every feature required and good functionality. Tru story. It worked great. I recommend it.

[@johnmichigan8293]

Great videos, I'm learning a lot! At 9:30 you mention a video talking about ATD-accuracy of chargers - but I'm unable to find that one. Could you link it? Also please do a video on the "Fulbat Fulload 750 Battery Tender" which I found on sale for £11

[@razenby]

My meaning was A-D (analogue to digital converter). This is a circuit in all chargers that converts the DC voltage to a number that represents the battery terminal voltage. The A-D and their associated components employed in these cheap chargers just do not have sufficient accuracy or resolution to measure the battery terminal voltage accurately. In one of the videos I did the math on the A-D employed in these chargers based on the manufacture's datasheet for A-D chip. The accuracy is OK for a quick charge but not good enough for long-term battery maintenance of expensive batterries..

[@johnmichigan8293]

@@razenby Thank you very much! The video seems to be kzbin.info/www/bejne/nITOhoWIrb54h5Y

[@abagnalejr123]

Greetings! Great video, as ever. Very informative, thank you. You say that "A chap down the road" had a request. . . Is there a way to contact you to check to see if I am "down the road" from you, or if you are on a road to which Royal Mail deliver? I have a paid project that I'd really like you to have a look at, please! Sincere thanks!

[@razenby]

Thanks for the comment. I am working on a project with my design hat on for the next few months. Unfortunately I don't have spare time for repairs. Sorry.

[@abagnalejr123]

Understood. Thanks for replying anyway. All the best for your design project!@@razenby

[@RingZero]

Would silicon spray on the board prevent any moisture ingress?

[@razenby]

It must help , but I am not sure that it would be as effective as lacquer. I haven't seen any wet silicone spray used on circuit boards to protect from moisture.

[@fredfrankenstein5035]

Brilliant videos - thanks for all the information. I have an MXS 5.0 upgrade model that's about 8 years old. No matter what settings I use, it whizzes throught the first two stages then on stage 3 the output voltage always sits at 13.32v for 20 hours before it goes through the last stages rapidly and finishes. I suppose it stays trying to charge for 20 hours as it's waiting until the battery hits 14.40v (or more for AGM) and it never gets there. I got it apart and can see a very small amount of moisture ingress around where the output wires are soldered onto the board but that's all. It's got me wondering though: could it be the temperature compensation failing and pulling the voltage down artificially? I would try to change the thermistor but it's only got a letter 'D' on it so don't know what to buy. Would you be able to point me in the right direction with this please?

[@razenby]

The temperature compensation is farce as the unit itself runs hot and the thermistor is in the main unit. In any case it wouldn't account for what you are seeing. I could be wrong. It should maintain the bulk charge current (nominal 5A) until around 14.1 V and then do the float absorbtion charge. Is the battery any good? I have never been able to make any sense re the LEDs. I am pretty sure if it isn't making progress (iffy battery) it just times out and switches on the LEDs.

[@fredfrankenstein5035]

@@razenby Tried it on a brand new Bosch AGM car battery, 2 Yuasa 7AH AGM's and an older used Varta 027 and get the same every time so am stumped...

[@nourdinearibate3107]

Well done. Nice video. Thanks

[@razenby]

Thanks for watching! Please subscribe of you can.

[@beantsiful]

Fantastic fault finding, how do i contact you for service ?

[@razenby]

I am pretty tied up working on new designs. What do you have that reqiures service?

[@krisztianivanics369]

I already regret that I used to buy CTEK chargers for expensive money. I believed the marketing text. I'm ashamed of myself. I don't even know what kind of charger is worth buying that is reliable and won't let you down.

[@razenby]

Easy mistake to make. My concern is the fantastic marketing claims versus poor reliability and design. Clearly it is Chinese quality made in China with schoolboy design issues.

[@krisztianivanics369]

And what do you recommend that is a quality and timeless piece. What are your experiences?

[@carlosw1687]

Hello I have used Optima 400 charger. It shows lots of information on screen. There's the Optima 1200 but I dislike high amperage chargers. Optima 400 seems better

[@krisztianivanics369]

Hello, thanks.

[@sbromose1]

It is quite disappointing to see how a CTEK is built cheaply. The CTEK chargers are not cheap to buy. It's a little sad that we do not know why water or condensation has entered some of the chargers or why other chargers without water damage have failed for example, the car was tried to start while the charger was connected.. I have an MXS 5 and the first one was replaced due to LEDs having a loose connection. The other I have now had for many years without any problems and it is used a lot. It is always protected from rain but not cold. It could be nice to know what has gone wrong since they fail like that. But with what I have seen, it will not be CTEK or NOCO, but a cheap one from budget retailer, it can hardly be worse.

[@razenby]

Look over here Nice shiny case with many LEDS......- A victory of style over function.

[@sbromose1]

@@razenby Yep, I totally agree.

[@qqaaq112]

Magix Smoke , do have any method model CTEK MXS 7.0? after few minutes light indicator off. power black out

[@razenby]

Could be a number of causes. Check the snubber diode in the primary side and run it for a few minutes. For safety discharge the HV capacitor and see what is getting hot.

[@qqaaq112]

@@razenby thank lot, will check use first

[@MrMsek]

Any chance you could point me to correct value of capacitor which is placed on secondary side between two resistors 300? One leg is soldered to one leg of component which is hooked to radiator. I damaged this capacitor by accident and my meter is showing 0.017nF which I am not sure is correct.

[@razenby]

Sorry, I don't have a unit here to open up at the moment and I have never seen a schematic. What part of the circuit is it in. The exact value is likely to be critical unless it is in a timing, power supply snubber circuit. Is it a multi layer ceramic chip type or polyester??

[@MrMsek]

@@razenby it is on 8:59 the orange/brown one near this rusty solder.

[@razenby]

@@MrMsek What is the component with 3 through hole legs next to it? is that a transistor or a rectifier?

[@razenby]

@@MrMsek 220n 50v Low ESR type multilayer ceramic. 1206 package.

[@MrMsek]

@@razenby I guess rectifier SBM2060VFCT. There is even pictogram of two diodes with common middle leg. - >|-*-|

[@turboslag]

Definitely a case of hype over reality with Ctek chargers. Low quality components, poor construction and no conformal coating on the board! For a product connected to a mains supply with an IP65 rating, that is extremely poor. I have a number of Optimates, admittedly with a much lower output current, that are at least 20 years old and still working perfectly. Also a number of Aldi and Lidl chargers that are stupid cheap but work really well. One of them is almost 10 years old and on permanent maintenance charge duty and hasn't missed a beat. They also have screw assembled cases so can at least be dismantled easily for repairs isf needed. They are surprisingly well made inside.

[@razenby]

Thanks for watching. I have a pile of CTEKs that people have sent me. I agree, the best marketing does not make the best product. I have had mixed results with the 3 am Lidl chargers. If I owned a CTEK I would fit a tact switch with a rubber stem so it cant be destroyed by a slight whack, conformally coat the board, change the SMPS primary snubber diode for recovery rectifier instead of a schottky. That would just leave the problem that they run very hot in bulk charge stages.

[@Pjcomputers]

I have a Noco Genis 5 with no power is this something I can send to you as well?? 😘😘

[@razenby]

I don't have much free time at the moment as I am working on designs.. I would be interested to see it as this is the first failed NOCO that I have heard of.

[@kestutisrimkevicius8891]

Hi, could you add your details into About section to your channel, so I could reach out you regarding repair of my faulty CTEK XS7000. If you take orders for repair. Thanks.

[@razenby]

Maybe, I am a bit busy. What is it doing?

[@VideoV4671]

How did you open the case?

[@razenby]

Grip it in a good vice with the split line just above the jaws of the vice. Tighten until it creaks - not too much. The using a sharp wood chisel placed in the join line just work along and back the join line tapping lightly with a hammer. After a few passes it will pop open at one end. Once you have an in you can lever the lid off. Voila!!

[@richardlouie2922]

I did something similar but I didn't have to tighten it in the jaws of a vice and crack it. Using a large wood clamp to hold the charger sideways with the joint exposed, I placed the charger a concrete floor with some padding underneath it. I got an old dull cleaver with a relatively smooth edge that is thin enough to fit into the join line and rolled it along that line while tapping the cleaver with a mallet. And just like you, after a few passes, the joint should have broken and you will see some give in the join line that wasn't there before. At that point, any relatively sharp flat object should be able to be wedged into the joint and the rest of the joint should crack open. The ends of the charger will be the hardest parts to work loose.

[@dacomaniac]

Great

[@razenby]

Glad you enjoyed it.

[@dacomaniac]

Ty but im sad couse i can not do all this wonders

[@jimmacdonald9746]

🇬🇧✊🏻

[@razenby]

Thanks?

[@khalilrazak6486]

CTEK battery chargers are over priced cheap garbage crap. So which is a good quality charger to buy?

[@razenby]

Bosch or an Noco - Not sue about Optimate. Seen many dead ones., if you just need the random charge then a really cheap one is as reliable as the CTEK. For long term maintenance charging than I use the NOCO for My jaguar. It has been on there 24/7 for over two years. The CTEK on average lasted 3 months,

[@playstation2bigs]

​@@razenby Which noco is better made in Vietnam or China ?

[@nickloughrey9841]

takes me back a couple of careers ! LOL

[@razenby]

I am stuck in this one!!

[@nickloughrey9841]

@@razenby A nice desoldering station and hot air wouldnt go amiss . Im sure Pace would donate one to your channel . or maybe hakka. good publicity for them ...............still have a load of kapton tape .. great for shielding the boards during hot air flow .. cheers!

[@razenby]

@@nickloughrey9841 Thank. I have several hot air stations and a reflow oven but only use them for new board assembly and BGA work. The problem with hot is that cheap PCBs are often very deliquescent and heating them without baking them first causes internal gassing which in turn causes delamination resulting in VIA reliability issues. Brand new PCBs are baked by the manufacturer and immediately hermetically sealed in a pack. At the assembly factory they are unpacked, populated and passed through the reflow oven or wave solder. If not used within ~12 hours (depending on humidity) then they need to be baked again before before soldering. I noticed the problem with PCBs repaired with hot air. I was getting repaired kit back and found failures related to issues with VIAs. I couldn't bake every board in for repair so I stopped using hot air. The VIA issues went away.

[@nickloughrey9841]

@@razenby agreed !.............had some crap boards in my time . ones that could not even stand the desolder pump .shock .................... have still got the gear but at 69 I just play for myself when it suits ............... ........... good channel .....wish you success !

[@dacomaniac]

Ure good so good magic smoke have magic hands

[@razenby]

Thanks.

[@carlosw1687]

CTEK is s Swedish company, it is a first world country, a first world company. I cannot believe Swedish engineers design and build poor products. Sad

[@razenby]

Sometimes it is hard to believe that lots of lovely LEDs and a nice shiny enclosure could possibly have hidden horrors within. It may have Swedish software but the build quality and the hardware design is cheap Chinese standard through and through.

[@sabs1970]

I have had a couple of these Ctek chargers they are total crap such a over rated unit' Ctek shameful for the price you charge for total rubbish these chargers could indeed cause a fire so Un safe to leave running long term which is part of your claim

[@razenby]

They are most definitely a great example of triumph of marketing over design..