BELT DRIVE for TRAXXAS XMAXX !!

[@MRR-qv3bw]

Get you a 2mm sheet of carbon fiber or piece of aluminum and make you a spacer for your motor mount. Stay away from the red thread lock because heat is the only way to get them off! Awesome job man!

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip bro! 😎

[@inmichiganweride5432]

Ive ran belt drive on my 800kv xmaxx. Had to adjust for the belt stretching twice which is typical. Much more reliable and cheaper replacement if the belt strips. $3 belts vs $100 mod 1.5 gears. Dont be afraid of red loctite. Brake clean the threads of grub screws and pulleys as oil gets trapped in threads during manufacturing process and stops the thread lock from sticking. If youre scared of red loctite use orange same vibration strength as red and removability of blue loctite. Apply loctite to hole going down to shaft so it gets on the shaft then apply to grub screw.

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks for the tips!….do you bash yours pretty hard though? Cause my plan is to bash it hard so it’s gonna have to hold up to some heavy abuse

[@inmichiganweride5432]

@@RCKnockout the only trouble you are going to run into id imagine is that motor mount looks like hell to adjust. Love my wfo motor mount. Tighten belt 1 or two times and you should be set. I bash mine pretty hard aswell as speed run. Im not hitting skate parks and purposely trying to break it but im not babying it either. The cush drive cover gave me hell because of the tension from the belt drive. Super glue or tire glue on the bolts and tighten it down as far as you can go without stripping the plastic. If you are still having issues look into a aluminum cush drive cover.

[@RCKnockout]

@@inmichiganweride5432 gotcha…..that’s a worry of mine with the belt tension….having the screw holes in the bulkhead strip out

[@inmichiganweride5432]

@@RCKnockout i got a local dirt track with large jumps i hit frequently. If you go mod 1.5 and decide belt drive isnt for you invest in a gear cover and be terrified of your mesh being too tight or too loose. I run my belt drive basically as tight as i can take it i give it a figer press and aslong as it presses in a hair i call it good. Make one hard bash and check tension. Every belt has its max it will stretch and you will find that. You just loosen the tension a little bit. I swapped to mod 1.5 gears attempting to take my pulleys off my motor and the red loctite i had on the shaft would not bust free so i decided to run mod 1.5 gears. Absolutely grenaded teeth off them with perfect mesh. Wether that was manufacturing defect or not it ruined 2 weekends of bashing i had setup with friends. And i said no more. Went straight back to belt drive. Keep in mind im running 800kv. My dad runs his mod 1.5 gears on his 800kv and has not had a issue yet. And he bashes way harder then me. I personally dont like the loud ringing of the mod 1.5 gears. Makes my teeth hurt lol.

[@inmichiganweride5432]

@@RCKnockout ive seen people drill the holes and do a bult and nut combo. Mine stripped out after i replaced the bulkhead and was installing the new one i just slammed a small zip tie down the hole and ran the bolt down. Plenty of bite and stronger plastic in the zip tie vs what the bulkhead is.

[@scottborkowski4487]

here is a solution that may work to solve you slipping issue. keep the other set screw in place and remove the one on the flat spot. get a drill bit that will just fit into the hole without touching the threads. gently drill into the shaft to make an indent that the set screw will set into. when you reinstall use the blue locktite. This is used when installing the set screw that hold the gas block onto and AR barrel. havent had one come loose yet. Granted they are not subject to the torsional forces but as well they do deal with excessive heat, and the pressure of burning gun powder combined with the jar of an explosion.

[@scottborkowski4487]

you could also attempt to do this on the round shaft itself. we dont flat spot gun barrels. your set screw should have a bit of a cone on the end that will allow it to set well into the drilled spot

[@RCKnockout]

Ok, thank you for the help and info!

[@MaxBrix]

@@RCKnockout A v slot for the set screw would work also

[@RCKnockout]

@@MaxBrix what do you mean by a “v slot”?

[@77jimlove]

you need to drill in to the shaft slightly, this will allow the grub screws to locate, dont bother with the flat on the shaft.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip!

[@josediaz6246]

With my electric skateboards i put locktite on the shaft of the motor also and it helps hold it in place also alot of grub screws arent flat at bottom yu should check to see if u have a flat on or one with a point

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks for the tips!

[@bdanyluk]

I used STOCK motor and STOCK mount with the WFO belt drive Kit WITH SPACER = 0 issues ! Also WFO kit comes with NEW Flat spotted shaft for that transfer Spur Gear .....NO LOCTITE NEEDED, THOSE pulley gears are aluminum

[@RCKnockout]

I’ll have to check out that kit……I’ve never heard of it

[@ryanfisher6402]

I think the belt creates more drag.. I would think it would be smooth. What is the equivalant gear ratio? (Pinion&spur tooth count) 🎉🎉🎉

[@RCKnockout]

Not 100% sure on that….the belt tension is definitely a tricky thing to get right though

[@MrGibbie2210]

where the grub screw is locating on the shaft, it will make a slight indent onto the shaft, countersink that indent and the grub screw will sit in it and basically lock it in place, no way it will move after that, but dont use red threadlock, its a killer to get out.

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks for the tip!

[@davidpryor7366]

The reason the holes are offset is to take slack out of the side before tightening the screw for the flat part of the shaft. Probably not an issue to begin with, but thats why they are offset.

[@RCKnockout]

Oh ok! Thanks for the explanation

[@JOHNNAYMACK]

i think you can get some small hex head bolts to hold motor behind the pulley then you could adjust with pulley installed with a tiny open end wrench. maybe

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah you might be right about that thanks!

[@dhstube]

You can twist 180º the oval motor insert of the motor mount to get more vertical travel for the motor

[@RCKnockout]

You’d think so but that’s not actually the case……the holes are staggered on both inserts…..so all that will do if I flip the insert 180 is tilt the motor in the opposite direction but keep it at the exact same height

[@johngantner9314]

That is a nice motor. 1100kv I will have to remember that. Sounded smooth. Good job

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks! It is a really nice motor

[@abruptlyblunt]

you can grind the top of the inserts so they can slide up further which will make it tighter but that's not going to help you much when you get rocks and debris caught between the belt and pulleys which is the downside of unenclosed belt drives.....

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks for the tip! Yeah I guess I never thought about rocks and debris getting caught up between the belt and pulley

[@BenBitsNVids]

could you perhaps add a tensioner thats spring loaded to keep tension on it looks ace though im just getting into rc

[@RCKnockout]

I ended up taking the belt drive out actually…it was too much of a pain and it was causing other breakages each time I ran it

[@Jefflove79]

You could always put shims under the motor mount so you have more adjustability?

[@RCKnockout]

That’s true thanks!

[@DoRC]

The grub screws are not 180° apart from each other because if they were then it would just be the grub screw pushing against the grub screw and the actual pulley itself would not be engaging with the shaft properly. This is normal for this type of setup. You never see grub screws 180° off from each other.

[@RCKnockout]

I guess that makes sense…..I don’t understand why there’s two though…the one against the flat part is the one doing all of the work holding the pulley in place

[@DoRC]

@@RCKnockout it's pretty common for pulleys to have two set screws. In general they would have a matching shaft that would have two flats on it but in this case they weren't really designed together. Having the additional set screw does help though. It does have to be tightened out in a particular order though. Need to lightly snug the one on the flat and then tighten the one that isn't on the flat and then finish tightening the one on the flat. Otherwise you might end up not getting the one on the flat all the way on perfectly. Also need to make sure that you clean the threads on the screws and the pulley with brake cleaner or alcohol. Then apply loctite tighten securely and allow 24 hours to cure. The belt also needs to be pretty tight otherwise I will start skipping. The problem is that with it being tight it tends to pull the spur shaft in the opposite direction it was designed for which can actually pull the spur shaft cover off. It is possible to get the pulley system to work but not ideal. Take a look at my channel I have a video about an mmm mod 1.5 gear. It allows you to keep your kush drive and is the best option for mod 1.5 in my opinion. I've tried pretty much all of them.

[@RCKnockout]

@@DoRC thanks for all of the info! I definitely learned a lot 👍😉

[@G.J.G.P.]

Yes, you can raise the motor higher. Just raise thee whole mount with a 2mm customized aluminum sheet.

[@RCKnockout]

That’s actually a pretty good idea….thanks!

[@PhatPhinx]

or just some washers?

[@G.J.G.P.]

@@PhatPhinx im aware of that method, but i didnt want give him the hill billy solution.

[@RCKnockout]

@@PhatPhinx that could definitely work too!

[@G.J.G.P.]

@@RCKnockout if you see it from that perspective- yes, every material in the right size and thickness could work. Dried pasta krums could also work and so does a new motor mount with the right hight or or customizing the old mount. My solution was somewhere inbetween, where you can say yourself "i didnt over done it without beeing to crappy."

[@scottlesage386]

I believe m2c has a motor mount which has a plate that bolts to the motor then the bracket that is bolted to the body has holes in it where you adjust the motor height (gear mesh) with screws that go in from the sides instead of facing the motor. May be easier to adjust belt tension with that style of motor mount.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for letting me know……I don’t think I’m gonna spend even more money on another mount though

[@scottlesage386]

@@RCKnockout understandable, especially if the belt drive doesn’t work out, then your just throwing money away

[@RCKnockout]

@@scottlesage386 exactly….it’s a perfectly good mount……just didn’t realize it would clash with this pulley system

[@scottlesage386]

@@RCKnockout true enuf, looks like a good quality manufactured part indeed

[@RCKnockout]

@@scottlesage386 yeah it seems to work well

[@lowridr2]

i put the belt drive on mine with castle 800kv motor but the belt stretches and starts to slip so you have to keep adjusting it just not practical when you take the truck out just to be interrupted by slipping belt and tightening it again but it was super fun and smooth while it lasted then went back to my mod 1.5 gears

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for sharing your experience! I thought it was worth a shot…..it could be a fail but we will see

[@inmichiganweride5432]

800kv castle had no issues with belt drive. Mod 1.5 gears are an absolute headache as they seem fragile as all hell. Went through 2 sets. Perfect mesh.

[@RCKnockout]

@@inmichiganweride5432 really? You had that many issues with the 1.5 mod gears?

[@timwegman5776]

You could always put some washers or spacers on the bolts under the motore mount to raise the motore to tighten the belt

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the recommendation!

[@chuckh8800]

If you mark and drill a dive that the grub screw can dig into and the also make grub screws with teeth or a point hope this helps

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks!

[@V8chump]

Wonder if you should break in the belt like you’d do on a side by side transmission belt 🤔. They say if you don’t it can glaze over (meaning a part of the belt got too hot, becomes hard, and causes slip)

[@scottlesage386]

This is a cogged belt, not driven by friction on the side edges of the belt, so break in is not necessary on this style of belt.

[@V8chump]

@@scottlesage386 ah true, didn’t know if it would happen on the teeth of the belt from the heat, but you’re right it doesn’t have to actually “grab” anything like a clutch would so you’re 100% right on the break in

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah I don’t think that would be necessary

[@onemansvideos2134]

And you need to gear down cause the motor is drawing to many amps from the esc...hobbywing has a safety measure pout in the esc where it shuts down if there's to many amps drawn so I ditched it and put a castle mmx8s on my 1100kv hobbywing and absolutely love it

[@RCKnockout]

It’s not that easy to gear down…..I’d have to buy a whole new pulley kit

[@oscarmike131]

Can you use that motor and pulley system with a stock esc from xmaxx?

[@moereefer]

No guys you can adjust it on the it probably on stock settings u can adjust with hobbywing card that’s what most do to get high speed runs and more power with higher temp adjustments and switching to lower low voltage shut off

[@RCKnockout]

@@oscarmike131 I’m sure this motor wouldn’t work well with a stock esc

[@oscarmike131]

@@moereefer how about stock esc from xmaxx and a 1100kv motor from hobbywing? im asking cause after a year my stock motor finally gave out on me and im just researching what's the best motor to get next for the xmaxx

[@danielsplayhouse3804]

I would have took and put your pulley on there and then on the end of the shaft use the sharpie to Mark where you need to put your flat spots on the shaft for your grub screws. And at the same time to get more attention on your belt you could put shims underneath your motor mount and that'll give you an extra lift on those screws to where you can lower them down put like one or two millimeters shims underneath your motor mount.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the info! I’ll definitely have to try to implement those tips!

[@timmytimtime1284]

WfO makes a mountplate for that stock motor. My friend has that motor on his x0-1 but you went with a better motor. Very nice 👍

[@RCKnockout]

Interesting…..didn’t know that…..thanks for the info!

[@timmytimtime1284]

@@RCKnockout I had the same problem trying to help fit that in the x01. We didn’t know that plate was plastic

[@RCKnockout]

@@timmytimtime1284 oh ok I gotcha

[@dutchmopedcrew7415]

Put al little piece of plastic under the motor mount.. it will work(did the same to my rustler)

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks!

[@lazermncrft5811]

hii noalan soz i carnt spell ur name but i was wonderign i recently picked up an xmaxx and i was wondering what u do to clean ur rcs becuase i saw ur maxx video on yt and i was wondering hoew u clean it so thxx for reading this

[@RCKnockout]

Didn’t quite get it right, but close enough lol….. It depends if it’s just dust I’ll blow it off with compressed air…..if it’s muddy I’ll use a hose then dry it off with compressed air and spray the bearings down with wd40

[@lazermncrft5811]

@@RCKnockout thank you, i have a air compressor and i usually use that to clean them. do u have to take apart the rc arfter like sand runs or if i get it wet do i need to take it apart?

[@RCKnockout]

@@lazermncrft5811 I’ve never bothered taking anything apart after a run unless it’s broken……I don’t have that much time to waste after each time it gets messy lol 😂 …..which is pretty often

[@lazermncrft5811]

@@RCKnockout lol okay thxx for ur help

[@RCKnockout]

@@lazermncrft5811 no problem 😉

[@jaguarsrcfamily101]

I think wfo makes a anodized metal motor end plate with standard size mounting holes . Still better to get the HW 1100 ! Great build 💯🔥 now a m2c racing bash bar next..? It Seems to save the xmaxx from a lot of breakage when upgrading .

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks! I’ve never heard of the M2c bash bar? What does it do?

[@Jobro_Ya_Know]

@@RCKnockout it stops the bulks from breaking on rough landings(to an extent of course) and stops the center shaft bending. Its almost like a center chassis brace except on the bottom. Makes them stronger

[@RCKnockout]

@@Jobro_Ya_Know oh ok…..I have seen those actually

[@SteakGrisel1]

Put sheems/washers between the bottom off the motor mount and the chassis to get rid of the slack In the belt.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip!

[@SteakGrisel1]

@@RCKnockout You can also grind a flat part onto the motor shaft with a Dremel for the set screw to contact.

[@RCKnockout]

@@SteakGrisel1 that’s true….the motor shaft does already have one good flat side but another one would probably be helpful

[@norcalrc]

How are you liking the belt drive

[@RCKnockout]

TBD

[@useless844]

good to see a belt drive on a fast car and not a trial truck. you find any ways of makeing the trx4 belt drive let me know. got your self a new sub

[@RCKnockout]

Appreciate the support! I don’t own a TRX4 so I probably won’t be the one to figure that out lol

[@timwegman5776]

Sorry I'm new to your videos but why are you trying to make it a belt drive again? I know I must of missed something.

[@RCKnockout]

The stock gears strip all the time

[@AudiA4Life]

A little tip for u they make orange loctite it's red but removable

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah I’ve actually used orange thread lock before…..I don’t find the hold is much better than the blue…..screws still have a way of coming loose

[@AudiA4Life]

Well basic hold is 6hrs but it prefers 24hrs. I've used on my Typhon 3s with a 6s setup to hold spirit gear on n haven't had any issues n I bash the crap out of it. To the point of breaking a lot earlier today

[@AudiA4Life]

Actually was just thinking look for loctite with antiseize it's usually used for stainless steel but it helps stop threads getting screwed up or wallowed out

[@RCKnockout]

@@AudiA4Life ok thanks for the tip!

[@RCKnockout]

@@AudiA4Life usually I wait a day before I bash….they still have a way of coming out it seems like

[@johnfaustus1]

Was there a reason for this mod, or just to see if it would work? Most guys have bashed on their Maxx's for years with no drivetrain failures. Gear-drive is also superior in other ways (less power loss, for one thing).

[@RCKnockout]

This isn’t a Maxx….it’s an Xmaxx actually which unfortunately has pretty weak gears….that’s why I decided to try this out

[@parkerk3599]

It looks cool in there

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah it does look cool 😎

[@jaguarsrcfamily101]

Check out the bow house spur shaft also ? Has a flat spot

[@RCKnockout]

I’ll have to check it out

[@billwoot]

What if you grind a couple of flats on the shaft?

[@RCKnockout]

That might be more helpful

[@jeeplvr2000]

How many redbulls did you have before the video?

[@RCKnockout]

Don’t drink Redbull lol

[@dragonbrownies517]

Don't use grub screws. Use cap screws. So they're easier to get out.

[@RCKnockout]

What’s a cap screw?

[@macb124]

Hobbywing motors and ESCs are the best. I use them in all my touring cars, and never had any problems.

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah they’ve served me very well too!

[@Unrivaledanime]

You need to add a second set screw on top of the other one it will lock it in you may have to find shorter screws so they can stack up good luck I will follow and I just subscribed keep up the good work

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks for the tip! Appreciate the support

[@modzilla74]

Seams like more of a novelty other than a solution to anything. I see more stuff to fail with all the extra parts involved. And I would say the the motor is definitely too big for the esc. I use that motor with an xlx2 esc. Also wonder how that belt will hold up once it's exposed to gravel, dirt , water etc......I predict HEADACHES.. Points for effort👍👍

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah….we will see……time will tell

[@techpriest4787]

Perhaps there is at least noise reduction.

[@blindabinda1234]

Well look at all the older belt drive rc cars. They held up just fine. With the belt you have waay more contact area then just 3 teeth.

[@Djkommode]

@@blindabinda1234 gears don’t slip and older rcs ran brushed motors.

[@blindabinda1234]

@@Djkommode and nitro.

[@TranceFur]

Very creative, I dig the idea. It’s always interesting when people decide to do things like this. That being said, was there a problem with the original design?

[@RCKnockout]

The stock pinion and spur are very weak…..I was stripping those pinions almost every run…..even hardened steel ones failed on me so I decided to try something different

[@vihreelinja4743]

@@RCKnockout sounds like you dont mesh them properly. also you should fabricate a belt tensioner or you will be changing belts allthe time.

[@RCKnockout]

@@vihreelinja4743 it’s impossible to get the gear mesh wrong on an Xmaxx……as long as you use the provided pins……you just put them in the correct holes for the gearing your running and the mesh is good…..so mesh is not the issue…… How do you recommend I make a belt tensioner?

[@coleslone8599]

Pry the motor mount up and try and put shims under

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip!

[@rubinhosfrog]

In my opinion it might be better for some cars but really not sure. My slash loves to eat the teeth of the pinion and belt drive could fix such problem but it also could be worse. Great vid 👍

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks! It’s hard to tell if this will work or not……time will tell I suppose

[@rubinhosfrog]

Yup, have fun!

[@RCKnockout]

@@rubinhosfrog thanks!

[@bcumike]

Can u drill a hole in the spur pulley, and put a pin through?

[@RCKnockout]

Maybe…..I’m not sure……I think that would be a difficult task to pull off though….

[@hahasimpsons]

What steering servo/s are you using?

[@RCKnockout]

2085x

[@hahasimpsons]

@@RCKnockout thanks, but what brand is that?

[@RCKnockout]

@@hahasimpsons it’s the Traxxas upgraded one

[@netybar7136]

Good idea But I don’t think it will hold for a good bashing

[@RCKnockout]

We will see……hopefully 🤞

[@cjchannel12RC]

Cool X-Maxx video, I'm thinking about putting an 1100KV with aftermarket motor mount and a Max 5 ESC in my future X-Maxx someday but first i will run the stock motor in my future X-Maxx until it dies or i need more power and after i get my new X-Maxx.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks man!

[@cjchannel12RC]

@@RCKnockout No problem, i was always like watching your videos especially the X-Maxx and Brushless 5T content. I will be buying my own X-Maxx and 5T 2.0 soon in the future and a few other cars and trucks.

[@RCKnockout]

@@cjchannel12RC awesome man! Glad you’re enjoying the content

[@shuster1921]

Smoooooooth,,,

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah it is pretty smooth

[@islandrc-duke1972]

cool setup and video,have a great weekend brother

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks bro! You too!

[@hauntman]

Awsome Nolan

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks!

[@hauntman]

@@RCKnockout no problem

[@TeamHeavyChevy1]

M2c makes a really nice motor mount that u can adjust from the top of the mount, Check it out.👍 Nice setup.

[@RCKnockout]

I’ll have to take a look thanks!

[@blindabinda1234]

I seen a video of a guy that had a chain drive. Looked to work very good

[@RCKnockout]

Not sure if they have anything like that available for an Xmaxx?

[@blindabinda1234]

@@RCKnockout i believe the person made it themselves from parts on ebay.

[@RCKnockout]

@@blindabinda1234 gotcha….I don’t think I have the skills to do that lol

[@blindabinda1234]

@@RCKnockout of course you do. Basically the same concept as the belt

[@RCKnockout]

@@blindabinda1234 appreciate the encouragement 😉👍

[@QuackersIsCwazy]

Does it feel any faster?

[@RCKnockout]

No

[@QuackersIsCwazy]

@@RCKnockout the same?

[@RCKnockout]

@@QuackersIsCwazy hard to tell….but it doesn’t feel any faster

[@QuackersIsCwazy]

@@RCKnockout ohh

[@davidbrennan5]

Gear drive is slightly more efficient but I am thinking if you could get the weight down on the belt system lower than the weight of the gears it would be better because you have less rotating mass, that would improve acceleration in theory. I would imagine the belt drive would be a lot more forgiving landing big jumps on the throttle.

[@allengeist5481]

Go to napa and get sleeve retainer

[@RCKnockout]

What’s a sleeve retainer for?

[@BigCheese85]

Nice video ...you confirmed I don't want to do belt 😁😁

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks! Glad this was helpful for you lol

[@BigCheese85]

@@RCKnockout love your videos keep it up brother

[@RCKnockout]

@@BigCheese85 appreciate it bro! 😎

[@rios00]

Your battery spacers are on the wrong side! Put them o. The side with the connectors so that they can be cushioned. Just wanna protect those batteries!

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip!

[@MRBRUSHLESS]

Awesome video my man good stuff on the belt drive set up!!

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks!

[@carson1011]

That’s awesome

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks!

[@Kodi5204]

Should just make a tensioner or make the motor slide up n down

[@RCKnockout]

Not sure how to do that?

[@mattzak8201]

Love it

[@darrylsjodin7184]

Once you get the pulley in the correct position and tighten the set screws, try backing them out and drill a small divot hole in the shaft where the set screw made a mark so the screw has a better grip on the shaft.

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Billyyessir]

Does it go faster?

[@RCKnockout]

Doesn’t seem any faster

[@nellieglover317]

Put some shims under the mount to Raise it up

[@RCKnockout]

Ok thanks!

[@donnyanda3191]

you could put a packer under the motor

[@RCKnockout]

Not sure what that is?

[@donnyanda3191]

@@RCKnockout hi, under the motor mount you could put a thick sheet of plastic cut to the same shape as the mount footprint and drilled for the mounting bolts you could tailor the thickness to tighten the belt.

[@RCKnockout]

@@donnyanda3191 oh ok I gotcha 😉

[@dustinkeith8064]

Drill a hole through the motor shaft and put a pin all the way through

[@RCKnockout]

I’m pretty sure it would have to be perfectly centered or the pulley would wobble…..I could be wrong though……my guess is it’s not that easy to drill into that motor shaft either

[@dustinkeith8064]

If u drill through entire pulley along with shaft it shouldnt be to bad what material is the shaft

[@RCKnockout]

@@dustinkeith8064 I would guess it to be hardened steel……it’s probably not supposed to be drilled into

[@dustinkeith8064]

Even hardend steel can be drilled through just takes some time and a ton of lube only reason im saying is bevause thats a lot of torque for those little set screws even with a flat face to rest on its still gonna slip...now maybe you dont have to drill all the way through but atleast put divots into it so the set screw will sit into it and not allow it to move at all

[@RCKnockout]

@@dustinkeith8064 that’s true……if the pulley system doesn’t work I’d rather not have a hole or divots in the motor shaft though lol 😂

[@zoopinc]

nice vid

[@RCKnockout]

Thanks!

[@SpeedyySlugz]

Can't you just flip the motor mount insert upside down?

[@RCKnockout]

Nope, it’s not that easy unfortunately

[@DavidSmith-vc5rn]

Blue lock tight is best for rc cars.

[@RCKnockout]

Blue still doesn’t hold that well…..stuff still seems to work it’s way loose

[@DavidSmith-vc5rn]

And red lock tight is too strong,,because that belt drive looks like a interesting concept,,how long do you let rc sit after you put thread lock on ???

[@RCKnockout]

@@DavidSmith-vc5rn depends…..sometimes I try it out right away but usually it’s a day or two later

[@DavidSmith-vc5rn]

Y

[@DavidSmith-vc5rn]

Ok so bottom pulley is the part messing up,,flattened spur shaft might work

[@normaborrero4608]

Mmm yes you can

[@MrBumbles2]

Well i tried it and the belt doesn't last, 1.5 mod gears or nothing,

[@RCKnockout]

Good to know your experience

[@MrBumbles2]

@@RCKnockout yep a run or 2 tighten belt again and again then you can't bogus set up imo, go mod 1.5 smooth and reliable

[@RCKnockout]

@@MrBumbles2 thanks for the advice 👍😉

[@onemansvideos2134]

And tha mount isn't designed for the 1100kv I learned that the hard way

[@RCKnockout]

It says right in the Ebay listing it works for a 1100kv Hobbywing Motor…..I have no issue with the motor attaching to the mount…..so I’m not sure what you’re talking about?

[@moereefer]

I want to do a belt drive conversation to my Arrma

[@RCKnockout]

You’ll have to look to see if there are kits available for it

[@andyb9994]

Just curious on what the issue was with stock spur and pinion if any?

[@RCKnockout]

They strip almost all the time….especially the pinion gears

[@andyb9994]

Gotcha thanks for the info, was always curious about the belt drive, but not sure if it's worth the trouble for me, I don't seem to have as many issues as you did you may bash a little harder than me, my only problem is the pinion comes loose no matter what color lock tight I use....but not that much of a problem I check b4 I use it....and make sure it's tight....great vid hope it continues to work for you👍👍

[@tylercousins7779]

I have a first gen Xmaxx. Upgraded to ezrun 6 when i cooked the stock esc. (Maybe 1 years old at that time). Been running that for 4 years. I have killed 7 Traxxas batteries, just destroyed my 4th body . It just stripped the original stock input gear 2 weeks ago. Still running the original spur and pinio gears. This is a cool kit but I don’t have any issues with the original stock ones. It lasted 4+ years of me beating the crap out of it. Seems like an expensive unnecessary upgrade. Not knocking the video creator. Just stating my experience.

[@RCKnockout]

@@andyb9994 yeah that’s another issue, the pinion grub screw coming loose once the pinion heats up….I’ve stripped well over a dozen stock pinion gears at this point and a handful of hardened steel ones too….

[@daysdesigns]

And you need a MAX 5 esc

[@RCKnockout]

We will see…maybe

[@TBO207]

wow that thing looks like a pan in the ass to work on

[@RCKnockout]

Yeah a little bit lol

[@macbook802]

You're supposed to let thread lock dry

[@RCKnockout]

True

[@bcracing204]

Many have tried to put a belt drive on a x Maxx none of them left them on they all went bback to pinion and spur.

[@RCKnockout]

Might be a fail for me too…..Time will tell I suppose

[@inmichiganweride5432]

Disagree with this entirely. Adjusted belt tension twice since setup. Absolutely love my belt drive for speed running and bash.

[@nellieglover317]

That’s gong to tighten your belt

[@RCKnockout]

Gotcha thanks!

[@michaelpitcock5445]

Drill a hole in the shaft.

[@onemansvideos2134]

You need to grind a flat spot on the spur shaft

[@meudrone4k369]

Show carro 🛻 top correia 👀✌🏼🤩

[@DashzRight]

But whats the point?

[@RCKnockout]

Stock gears are weak and strip all the time…..hardened steel ones still have a way of stripping

[@raphaelschimpfossl9895]

My bigges question … why ???😂😂😂😂

[@RCKnockout]

Mainly because the gears on the Xmaxx are very weak…..hardened steel ones still seem to strip too

[@raphaelschimpfossl9895]

@@RCKnockout oh ok 👍

[@devon-s9l]

GET A DREMEL AND GRIND ONE BROSKI

[@rayofhope6501]

First

[@epicgary3403]

9:44

[@bigestevensones]

Get a smaller belt

[@RCKnockout]

I think I’d have to swap out to a different pulley system to do that

[@chrisschneider8098]

Belt = more friction = slower

[@RCKnockout]

I don’t know the science behind it lol 😂

[@inmichiganweride5432]

Lol ive hit 107mph with my 25/25 belt drive. 800kv motor. Theres a guy whos hit 136mph with a belt drive.

[@chrisschneider8098]

Sorry each to there own, I just know I don't see Raz, Talbert ne1 running it, and the videos (only 2) I've seen on it there's lots slippage and heat from friction. But it's just my opinion not saying scrap it just my thoughts.

[@daysdesigns]

Yeah. Those don't last.

[@YZ-YZ-]

Waste of time and money. There are many reasons why these don’t work. Stick to gears.

[@RCKnockout]

We will see…time will tell

[@davenhunter99]

To much slack!

[@RCKnockout]

Alright thanks