Building an Electric Boat That Actually Works!

Join me live: / rclifeon
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Music:
Maniamaster - Lupus Nocte
Arcaders - Ben Elson
Skywards - Aiyo

[@Ultramesh]

Looks great, but you need a fixed camera pole mount and a throttle mount on the dashboard. That will free up your hands allowing you to eat a sandwich and drink a beer at the same time as driving.

[@moretrash4you]

After watching the video I'm convinced he could probably just hold the sandwich with his feet 😂

[@jesperwall839]

The beer is probably not a good idea here in Sweden. We have the same alcohol limit on the sea as on the road. 0.2‰. That is 0.02% for the Americans 😂

[@snjert8406]

@@jesperwall839 damn, I'm German and I thought ours was low haha

[@mandrakejake]

​@@jesperwall839 that sucks! Here in the UK there is no alcohol limit for driving a narrowboat on a canal, but there's a 5mph speed limit 😂

[@enyaisrave2831]

😂👌

[@Attqqq]

RCLifeon putting earnings back into the channel Dude bought a whole ass boat, motor, rented an actress, all for this video! Looking forward to the next one!

[@chrisleech1565]

That be a sound bite friend. I actually stopped to stare at the 150cc _equiv' BLM. and saw your synopsis. lol

[@shatterpointgames]

What do you mean rented an actress? Did I miss something?

[@Tyrone-Ward]

​@@shatterpointgamesyes you did

[@robb3341]

hahahahaha got a good giggle from that one.

[@gethigh961]

@@shatterpointgamesthe „gf/girlfriend“

[@freelife-productions5745]

The steering with the foot shows how much he drives boats XD Great video!

[@Basement_CNC]

yeah, but it probably needs some trim, to get the front down

[@freelife-productions5745]

@@Basement_CNC put the batteries in the front

[@rhylynadams7842]

LMFAO

[@GoldenCroc]

@@Basement_CNC When hes up on plane, which didnt take that long, front weight will decrease speed though. Worth keeping in mind.

[@BeardMan01]

Most creek style boats use foot controls by design. As a matter of fact, look up the brand Creek Boats. I have a M12 Creek Boat.

[@slimey4427]

2 months of waiting for 12 minutes of pure good quality content. Totally worth it 👍👍

[@moretrash4you]

Same with my wife

[@9979839]

Totally

[@rctestflight]

freaking rad! A smaller propeller would probably help

[@Cucazikf]

And a more efficient one! ;)

[@babaksanaee1460]

Might as well make it toroidal too...

[@LL.bean123]

That motor was so mint why

[@ljsbean2705]

He knows what he's talking about, he tested a lot of props

[@herzogsbuick]

"no, no no smaller -- smaller" (turn around to our friends) "guys he's totally buying it!!!"

[@memeofwheat]

"Keep away from water" would be kinda fun to see on there

[@adubs.]

I think that ESC is operating in open loop, which could mean the vibration is simply the rotor position not aligning with the coil magnetics. You could fix this with positional feedback in the ESC if it supports this, or by increasing the throttle with your speed slowly. The motor may not do well with more voltage/current as it would just saturate the rotor and get turned into heat. You could also gear it down some so less apparent torque is needed.

[@TheStuartstardust]

@@adubs. Yes - this. Motor tuning is needed - OpenDrive perhaps or something similar, should that be ok priced? 🤔

[@fabianrudzewski9027]

A brushless esc should really not operate in open loop. For anything beyond initial startup, it should immediately switch to back EMF feedback. If not, something is seriously wrong. But I agree, some esc tuning is likely in order. Or get something like a vesc, if this controller isn't already running vesc.

[@snaggglepus]

Had a similar effect on a mountain board build using a VESC. rough and stuttery to start off. Sensored motors cleared every thing up. speed controller has to know whats going on with the motors if you're spinning it up under load

[@billmiller4800]

Beware putting more power into a system where the electrical and mechanical phases don't match!! You will do nothing but damage the motor otherwise. Get some sort of feedback in there so your controller will send power to the right winding at the right time. This is why it works in air, because the motor shaft can easily keep up with the electrical signals.

[@ChrisBLong]

Also, that four-pillar motor mount might not be sufficiently rigid, maybe? Could be some resonance at certain motor speeds.

[@pedrowoolson4273]

nothing screams "I laugh in the face of failure" like no paddle

[@jacob682]

Ya even with a factory made motor I would bring a paddle

[@elcookiemonsteru]

@@jacob682 even with paddles i would bring more paddles!

[@michaelyoung3337]

Or lifejacket or fire extinguisher

[@markkujii4247]

Yes. This would be my comment also: ” Y U no life jacket and paddle 🤌” It just need a little push and you foot-steer capside the boat. Anyway neat project!

[@StanleyGraczyk]

I live on a small lake that only allows electric motors. This is great content, I'd love to build a boat like this one day for my place.

[@TheStuartstardust]

Then start saving for a battery and a controller.. 💥💸 ..and a secondary proper controller 💰💰

[@cmac3530]

Keep in mind if your lake is also "No Wake" you still wouldn't be able to have something as powerful as the one in the video. I believe they make existing electric outboards, they're just a lot smaller than what we see here. More equivalent to a 1-5HP engine

[@Eden_M]

​Just to let you know a single 775 DC can't really output more than 300w continuously​@TheHappinessOfThePursuit

[@NOTNOTJON]

Or head to home depot, get a rubber dingy, a 12Amp hour 20v battery, a good drill, and a cement mixer prop attachment.

[@Simon-dp2df]

​@@NOTNOTJON Or a cement mixer 😂 They are designed for long high load applications and have bigger motors gears and lower rpm

[@TheColinputer]

That motor vibration sounds a lot like ESC desync.

[@scottmclaughlin1410]

I was trying to think of what it was called

[@colinmetzger6755]

Yup, he should adjust the phase offset or whatever it's called in his ESC.

[@GoldenCroc]

"cogging" is the word often used, isnt it? Or is that something else?

[@snjert8406]

@@GoldenCroc no, I think that word fits

[@emusp]

It's called timing. Sounds like it's set too low for the motor.

[@scottdawsonphd9216]

I'm no expert but likely kicked in because you broke the threshold of resistance of PUSHING the water and started to PLANE on top of it, lowering the forces on the propeller needed to spin.... If you pursue this further, I would recommend having tilt/trim on the engine mount, which will allow you to overcome the resistance and begin planing sooner a la regular boat. I look forward to your different propeller designs.... I have a 1982 surfjet (gas powered surfboard) that I have been toying with the idea of changing the impeller design but I think computational fluid dynamic (CFD) studies would be easier. As always, love seeing a new RCLifeOn video, keep it up!

[@power21100]

i noticed that too, it also happen on my model RC boats, you gotta let the props "Grip" the only sure way is to start at slowly and let your speed build up

[@bensprink9943]

Trim engine down, increase speed until the bow comes down, then trim up in increments but not too high where the prop blows out. A jackplate will also allow you to raise the entire engine up, the goal is centerline of lower unit and prop in a straight line with the very bottom of the transom

[@RevlisGT]

My thoughts exactly. I noticed his mount does allow for adjustment but i don't think it's motorized.

[@pr0tux]

That casual steering with a foot. Incredible.

[@dlevy92]

Thats how all swedes drive boats 🇸🇪

[@madmax2069]

There's a guy that does this driving a truck, he only has his feet to do everything.

[@IOUaUsername]

I've driven with my knee long enough to finish an entire McDonalds sundae before. It's a two-handed dessert.

[@Axel_Andersen]

With no life-vest, people have died in less sketchy situations on water. Water is not forgiving.

[@soonts]

@@Axel_Andersen Today I have spent half an hour swimming in the sea without life vest, outside of an official beach i.e. no life guards. I do it almost every day in Summer, and I’ve managed to survive for almost half a century. The rivers OP’s navigating seems very narrow. Pretty sure they gonna be fine even in the event of rapid unplanned disassembly of the boat, by swimming towards the land.

[@m93sek]

Once you are on plane, you need less torque and the motor can speed up to a higher rpm. Still lower pitch/bigger speed controller is probably advisable.

[@adamr9215]

It needs the right ESC before the propeller pitch matters. It seemed to have plenty of power with the original prop. The speed controller is the weak link at this point.

[@mutt2jeff]

Lots of improvements available to be made to the setup of that boat. Ditch the foils on the outboard, and raise it up as much as you can. Get as little of the drive in the water past the transom as possible. Looks like there was room to raise it at least a few inches in some of those shots. This will reduce drag of the lower unit. If you can get it up high enough that you can run half the prop out of the water, that's even more efficient and you might be able to go back to the big prop. You can also move some of that battery weight backwards. Having it forward of your feet is forcing the hull into the water and slowing you down. Remember, water has 800x the drag of air. Fast, efficient boats touch it as little as possible. You want air to carry that hull over the water at higher speeds.

[@3DPDK]

A high speed prop will cavitate severely if it's spinning fast but moving slow through the water. This happens just around the point that the boat hull "climbs up out of the hole" or transitions from displacement to planing mode. It takes much more thrust to go through this transition than it does once on plane. Cavitation causes chaotic low pressure zones (vacuum bubbles) behind the blades of the prop momentarily reducing friction and thrust on the blades, so the opposing force on the blades, drive shaft, and non isolated motor translates to heavy vibration. Once on plane the prop is more balanced in rotational speed vs forward speed and the cavitation is greatly reduced. This happens with combustion powered planing hulls as well, but the combustion engine builds torque more slowly, has significantly more mass along with shock mounts to the enclosure so that it absorbs most of the vibrations.

[@darkiee69]

I had the same idea. It's not an electrical problem, it's just physics and fluid dynamics.

[@nivekeu]

finally been waiting 1 year on that electric outboard

[@lowelllogerwell5146]

As a guy who has loved boat all of his life (and looked at many designs), please look @3:23 in you video:" you see that triangular like piece connecting the floor and transom? ADD ANOTHER one!!! Make it, say 50mm thick and place it dead smack in the middle of the transom!!! With the torque this motor (and future , stronger motors make it would be cheap insurance/peace of mind!!! It doesn't have to be the same shape; hell, at 50mm just a triangle that almost covers the original will work! I LOVE this build! Great video!!!!!

[@PopcornPapiii]

dude I've been waiting for this follow-up video for what it feels like ages, and let me tell you I am beyond happy at the fact that you was able to get everything dialed in and for this project to be such a success, cheers.

[@NA-sy2fm]

8:47 the wires jumping from the insane amount of current 😬

[@vishalb84]

Live near a lake does not allow hydrocarbon boats, this has been on my mind for years, you made me vision my dream! Thanks Bro, Love from Texas!

[@jttech44]

Build a hydrogen powered boat. No carbon involved, so they can't say no.

[@DIYTechRepairs]

For sure seem to be esc sync issues during load. And when you get up to speed it can catch up and sync and run. Had same issues on one of my atvs i built. As soon as you got over certain speed it was dangerous and could easily go on back wheels :D

[@allstreamerscheat8784]

You should write on the cover !Angry Pixies Inside" 😂

[@darkiee69]

"Don't let the magic smoke escape!"

[@nirjharbhatnaagar1982]

..You can add copper tubed cooling system around the motor that could use the Lake's water to cool down...the faster motor goes ..the faster water enters from the channels and cools the motor down and transfer the heat to he lase it self...! sounds about right...! :)...nice build ñamaste~

[@squidikka]

The steering with the foot lol... What a god.

[@SaltyMcBoatFace]

really glad you took my advice on talking to Rctestflight about propeller design , hope to catch you live again soon!

[@Steil-o]

that boatshape looks absolute dope! combined with an electric Motor nearly busted my dreams....hope there are more videos commin about that thing

[@AdamOpheim]

FWIW the fardriver controllers from Aliexpress have been really spot on and trouble free for me. Fast shipping and not crazy expensive either. The 96v680a controller I run was about $350 usd. Run it at 117v and 240 line amps.

[@uavcrazy9562]

I've had similar issues, I built an ebike which had a LOT of inertia. I think that's the main issue. I was able to solve it by using FOC in VESC (like the VESC 75300 ESC). Basically, if you want to get rid of it you need an orientation sensor. It's the motor cogging, like an rc truck does when accelerating.

[@murraymadness4674]

I built an electric outboard many years ago for my sailboat. I determined that the loses in the outboard gearing was rather large, like 20%. With a gas motor, not a big deal, but with an battery powered electric, every loss really matters. The right way to build an electric output is to put the motor in the water and direct drive the prop, no inefficient gearing and direct water cooling. That was a cool little boat. I had a 15ft Hydrostream viper, not that small, but it was similiar, wish I still had it.

[@Bambule161]

For a watertight and strain-relieved cable routing to the motor, I suggest you to use a punch and die set next time, so you can fit a cable gland. They're inexpensive and up the quality of the build quite a bit! :)

[@valentinrehe3785]

I think you still have an Problem with the ESC. You can hear it with the Spin up from the Motor. I would recommend you to use a VESC like one from Flipsky for Example the 75300 wich hase a peak Current around 28kw wich should be plenty enough. But with the VESC you could Program it much better den with the one you have. Do you have the USB Configurator for this one?

[@Rhynri]

I can second VESCs. I’ve used them on mower decks and yard tractors and it does an amazing job of giving you feedback and in general mapping motors well. I’ve put some very high startup loads on my motors without them desyncing like yours seems to be. Not to mention the software makes it’s a breeze to reprogram them using saved profiles for different uses.

[@get2zero]

So cool! Some physics about boats. When you were going along at less than full throttle the drag was across the entire hull. On a boat you have to get past that point so the hull lifts more out of the water. Remember drag is computed on a hull as D = 1/2*fluid density*velocity^2*Area*drag coefficient. So, more hull in the water is a huge deal. You may find you can actually reduce power once you reach a certain point and maintain the speed (until the hull drops back into the water).

[@dakotadriggers8838]

3:10 its just like a real johnson with a lean sneeze lmao

[@k_the_v]

Experienced lake-person here: you really should attach a linear actuator (or equivalent) to allow the motor to tilt fore and aft. This would help the boat get up on a plane much more easily (tilted aft / aka lifted a bit up towards the surface of the water) and then can be tilted fore (aka down, deeper into the water) to increase your speed once your boat is planing.

[@davidstuart4915]

or jet ski drive with vectored nozzle and reduce noise, reduce fowling etc?

[@charlesurrea1451]

That look on your face at Full Throttle! Oh damn! 😄 I suspect your vibration is more mechanical chatter

[@ezrarichardson279]

Steering with just one foot confidently is just so funny to me for some reason lol. The best part is that it seems to work perfectly 😂

[@Texcajun06]

In this instance, that whale tail is likely serving a purpose. However, if you bump that boat motor up to twice as much power, lose the whale tail, and get your prop pitch in order. Also, dial in the motor height. You will realize the boat's max potential. Whale tails are a band aid for a poorly setup boat and they will rob you of top end speed because of the extra drag. Cool video, though! Glad I found it.

[@wadefallin]

I would love to see you take it to the next level! Now add some foils to help pick the bow up higher out of the water which will reduce drag on the boat’s hull. Less drag equals more speed. Loved the video!

[@jonmayer]

I love all the "good reasons" for the motor put right on there.

[@martinkulda7040]

10:34 For me it sounds like an anti turbo lag when he gives it full throttle 😀 Looks great!🤙

[@Modna89]

Lol, I love how you carry the bucket our partially full of water, then use a hose to fill it up the rest of the way, then pick it up FULL and put it down on bricks right next to it!

[@madmax2069]

If motor heat becomes an issue you can cobble together some kind of water cooling to cool off the motor. You wouldn't really need an electric pump, just the movement of the boat in the water (an inlet at the front of the outboard, and an exit ot the rear) would be enough.

[@paddyg24]

The outboard might still have a water impeller and piping which could be reused. Add some copper tubing coiled around the electric motor and exit out the rear of the outboard.

[@BigWavesTr]

Awesome. The motor sound is higher than I expected. Great overall.

[@richard--s]

That's great! I think that the best method would be to increase the motor rpm with the speed of the boat. That means, when the boat is already faster, then a faster spinning propeller would move perfectly through that fast moving water and would give you a seamless thrust. In comparison, when the boat is not moving, a fast spinning propeller would just have big problems... And the acceleration from the standstill might be slower. You had that, you mentioned it in the video. So, you could use the full rpm when the boat is already fast enough - to go even faster ;-) ------ Hmmm... when the motor rpm is too fast and you think, the boat could be faster, meaning, you think, the boat speed is limited by the motor rpm, you could use a little bit steeper propeller. Start slower from a standstill and apply higher rpm little by little as the boat gets faster and faster. Oh and do you have a plan in case the boat catches a wave (maybe at high speeds) and sinks? Just for safety I guess it would be good to have a plan for that... Can you swim? Do you have a second boat for the rescue? Or do you stay close enough to the lake shore to swim over in case you need to? Just be prepared...

[@PathosBedlam]

Try replacing the regular boat engine with a Jet Boat impeller setup. It'll be way smoother and you can jump onver logs and other debris in the water with no problems. A hydrofoil option would also be interesting from an efficiency aspect. A flying wing with a rear prop at the back should lift the whole boat from the water. Can be attached to the existing motor setup relatively easily. Your girlfriend is like a Norwegian version of Maddy from Cletus McFarlands channel. I hope you have a happy life together. She seems like a keeper for sure if she is willing to help you with your KZbin vids.

[@Jakefrc]

You need to trim the motor so the propeller is further in the water and pushing the nose down. The reason you had success after holding the throttle on was that the boat came on the plane. This reduces the drag of the hull significantly and therefore the power required to move the boat. If you can get the nose down more you’ll plane faster and go faster once you’re there by getting the back end of the boat to not sit so deep.

[@avocadoarms358]

If you ever want chat got to give you a short answer just start your prompt with “in short explain x”

[@me-cm8or]

“And all of this was generated by Ai” took me out 😂😂😂

[@jdsstegman]

Now to make it faster, get more of the haul out of the water. At a givin point, you will need alot more power to go faster. All due to the the drag on the haul. Nice work!

[@dougtheslug6435]

Nice work, looks good. That vibration is probably cavitation from the prop spinning fast. It would be interesting to see that go with the original speed prop.

[@liambowers666]

I think what you’re experiencing is brushless ‘cogging’, essentially when there’s a load the speed controller expects the motor to be spinning faster than it is and de-de-syncs. You ideally need a sensor motor and ESC

[@sverkerherngren6850]

Great video! Interesting to see the 3D-printed plastic part between the engine and the drive shaft doesn't break. Must be very good precision!

[@agy3256]

Maybe it's not all due to the ESC, it could also be that, at that point, the shaft that drives the propeller from the motor hits a critical speed, which is an angular velocity that excites the natural frequency of a rotating object, so it starts to vibrate a lot, and once it surpasses that critical speed it stops resonating and doesn't vibrate so much. The critical speed of an axle depends mostly on the loads applied on it and their distribution, it could be interesting to do some calculations on that to know if this is the problem or not. I don't know if this is what's causing the problem or it really is an ESC issue, but I just want to give a different point of view because sometimes we're all too focused on something that's not the real problem, and another ESC will be really expensive. I hope this helps, great video as always!

[@savage6394]

All I heard here was 10:52 “It's the Catalina Fucking Wine Mixer”😂

[@genuismensa]

Also, look up trailer bunks. They are just 2x6" or 8" wide boards with outdoor vinyl carpet on them. Then hull slides on them into the water. Its what most boats in America use. Rollers are super expensive trailers and practically no one has them for that size boat.

[@FarmerFpv]

I wish you would post more content. This was still incredible!

[@IOUaUsername]

The issue isn't the quality of the speed controller. It's that you're running with lots of load in sensorless mode. I had the same problem with a 2,000W 190kV drone motor belt-driving the wheel on a bicycle, and it's commonly an issue on brushless RC crawlers. In sensorless mode, the speed controller has to just assume the slip ratio (how far the electrical signal is in front of the physical rotor). It can also get a pretty bad reading of it from the back EMF generated by the motor. You can temporarily bypass the issue by slowly ramping up the throttle, so that while the speed is going up, the resistance doesn't exceed the limit where the electrical signal gets an entire tooth ahead of the rotor. This is what you achieved at the end of the video. Most large motors like this include sensors within them, using a little JST plug separately from the 3 big phase wires. You can also add your own hall effect sensor by gluing it to the stator.

[@percival5771]

RCLO fans... can we just take a moment to appreciate the FOOT STEERING this man is pulling off? yeah some of us have done that before but while controlling throttle and a camera with the hands at the same time is just epic

[@nateolmsted22]

When you had the motor cogging I thought "man, if only it could get up on plane. Then it would probably run a lot happier" then you did 😂 Also the camera in one hand, throttle in the other, foot on the wheel. 👌🏼 Peak human performance

[@kalos1001]

I love it, when you hit max throttle it sounds like holding the 2-step button before launch :D

[@VincentGroenewold]

Besides the cool project, man would I love living there, well done!

[@qi5bz]

Fun build! As for vibrations I would guess you have too much torque on the motor and if it's sensorless it can be loosing timing even if it's self sequencing. My 2nd thing to investigate would be momentary current limit. Other option I'd look into is surface prop and not fully submerged as for speed boats usually using surface props. Next step learning to sharpen prop, God speed :)

[@chrisw1462]

That shaking sounds like an issue in the gear box, probably worn bearings. Looks like lots of fun!

[@Titus00093]

I would strongly recommend a BMS so that the battery switches off if the voltage is too low and is no longer deeply discharged. And with a good BMS you can also monitor a lot more like SOC and temperature. I like your videos very much

[@rexxx927]

Having a SEP-EX golf cart motor, this reminded me of the saying "Separately excited " its was excited, you were mostly excited nun the less another great job, try a piece of wood under the motors saddle to get it up more A few inches off the transom will be a good start, this will get you going much easier you may even get the other prop back on and go even faster, if it don't cavitate it can go even higher up! shoot for just the prop in the water on plane if you make a third foot you can mark it with a sharpie @ WOT LOL Cheers Simon awesome channel you have, I look out for your content on the regular. so chop chop 1Million Subs are around the corner "also the motor clamps need to hit the transom not the wooden jack plate, you will only miss once" till next time>>

[@davidegualtieri9927]

your happines for results is our happines! Great Simon!

[@jellyjar5526]

Does anyone else get what he said at 3:53? Great video though. I’ve been building a 72v system and I’ve learned so much from RCLifeOn throughout the years.

[@davidstuart4915]

good hull, now fit a jet ski hidden drive and at same time make it silent running (main advantage of electric) - + little more power and plenty of duration

[@nerfthecows]

I think you issue might be cavitation…. my reasoning is 1. the lower pitch prop improved it, lower the pitch the faster you can spin it with out cavitation. 2. It’s less likely for a esc to only have issues from 40-60% 3. I think why it goes away after your on throttle is right as the cavitation starts are the highest prop load and once you start to get a little more speed your boat gets up on plane so drag is reduced significantly… 4. Much like last one once the cavitation happens it can go away once you going fast enough for the blade to have enough pressure on them.

[@SunriseKnight]

Bro this is the best yet. The prop in a bucket scene is awesome

[@rexxx927]

where the keel meets the transom is the sweet spot for the prop or just below that, if you get it going much better before we see it I expect a super Dave Osbourne suit for good measure

[@PartikleVT]

I like how instead of elevating the rollers on the ramp, it never occured to you to maybe lower the center of the ramp instead ;D

[@hiijustin1905]

Along with your content just being A+ tier. I find it so surprising that so many memes concepts and jokes from a country I don't even know about translates perfectly well to America/english

[@PhilippDitfurth]

This is like the electric version of Grind Hard Plumbing Co . Much appreciated!

[@pasiorava7115]

Think the problem for vibration is electric motor accelerating faster than petrol version. Boat needs to break water and glide on top and electric just spins too fast. Speed up gradually that vibration is solved. And you need to make it faster😂. Full on fastest electric boat around. Nice work, will be subscribing for follow up videos.

[@kevinsellsit5584]

At 5:48 you said to comment below. I'd change the 10X... to 40 X more expensive then change Lacks power to Stupid Fast! That is a LOT of motor and it will take quite the investment to see its full potential. I owned one of the original Briggs and Stratton Brushed Etec outboards and it would eat 300 Amps like it was nothing...but the power was impressive! Edit : The B&S was limited to 48 volts...your brushless will love more voltage. As you already know, the controller is key and the more you spend the better it will get. You're on the right track, you will have 1 million subs soon and life will be good! ;) P.S. Plastic props are okay for your application because they flex and act like a variable pitch prop.

[@MarcStollmeyer]

Add a 2nd motor. You have room for it. And adjust the timing on the motor, that vibration is desync which is probably because the timing is too advanced. You could also look at getting the same type of ESCs as RCTestFlight which limit the phase current to help prevent the motor/speed controllers from burning out.

[@lakotamm]

I experienced the same issue on my electric motorcycle with a sensorless ESC. These cheap ESCs don't have phase current control and can put too high current into the motor - to the point at which the ESC can no longer sense the position of the motor and looses synchronisation. Solution 1 - Lighter load (a propeller with a smaller pitch/diameter). Solution 2 - Limit phase current (get a better ESC). Solution 3 - hall effect sensors (get a better ESC). Solution 4 - find out when is the load too high and decrease motor power for that specific operating phase. E.g. the boat speed might be one of them - limit motor power at lower boat speed to decrease load.

[@ttcbeppo-VODS]

Consider me as having been wrong. I said I didn't think it was gonna plane. Though I did say specifically I thought it'd need 20hp to plane and I wasn't sure it could provide that. One thing I'll mention for if you make the video about testing props, I know at least for jet skis, the aftermarket impellers are usually stainless since it is so much stronger than aluminum it can be made much thinner and more efficient. Maybe PCB way can give you a deal printing them out of stainless instead. Also, it's so much funner watching these videos having seen it being built live and even knowing I might have said some things that might have helped the build be more awesome. It's crazy how few people are watching you stream this on Twitch. Maybe it might be helpful letting people know more you do it. I know it sure is cool seeing things I say up on TV.

[@CriticoolHit]

RCTestFlight has done ALL the testing on props. There is no doubt in my mind that the perfect prop is that simple-as-heck 2 blade that can run for 900000000 years on a single triple a battery.

[@dege13]

3D print yourself a mount for that Insta360. Those foot steering skills are nothing to be ashamed of though. Skills.

[@witrc6801]

You should do RC Jet Boat project again! I loved these videos, and this video is also great, keep it up!

[@RubenKelevra]

You should add a basic autopilot with ardupilot, so your steering input is converted to a turning speed of the heading and otherwise the heading is kept steady :)

[@PeterMMMMM]

When flying a quad copter, the motors generate a lot of vibrations. The ESC has some settings you might want to tweak for the vibrations.

[@newt2010]

My first thought it was, the gearbox went underload. Of course I’m not there for the whole thing, but it just seems like the gearbox went under in the water. But then later, when it kinda came out of it rut, it was impressively quick and smooth. Very cool and that would be a lot of fun.

[@pohukai3216]

Nice and looks like fun. As far a the vibration, everything has a natural frequency which when operating at that frequency a system can destroy itself. The key is to sure to move it or move through it as quickly as possible as you demonstrated by accelerating when it was vibrating a lot. After that, it was smooth and your speed increased. Now, the trick is identifying what spinning component is being being placed into that natural frequency? Best wishes.

[@calvinwright5040]

Steering with your foot had me rolling 🤣

[@NathanOlsen-di9jh]

Electric V-Tech! Nice work!

[@danielzinner6584]

I think if you use a speed controller with FOC (field orientated control) you will get rid of your problem with jerking/vibration. That speed controller you are using is open loop, you need closed loop so it can adjust timing relative to torque. Just my two cents still great video.

[@ShypaxGaming]

i can see the swedish summer has been just as terrible as the danish one , good to know ;)

[@benediktreuter5965]

I had the same problem on a model plane. The motor would start "stuttering" and vibrating at a specific rpm, which sounds a bit like your problem to me. I tried different things, but in the end changing the PWM frequency was the only thing that helped. Try that and look if it makes any difference

[@genuismensa]

As someone who lives in a state where damn near everyone seems to have a boat, I can tell you right now all your issues are that prop. A single ding and it will throw it out of balance at 5000 rpm. That one looks like someone give it hell and then some more. Also, those lower drive need lubrication. Make sure to change the lower unit oil. There is goin to be 1 or two plugs need the bottom for this. Also those props are only meant for 5000rpm. You need to get a different pitch prop. It looks like a fairly standard 14-16p that you would find on these older engines. It is a same you destroyed that poor Johnson! I hope it was toast lol.

[@charlesblithfield6182]

Love the steering with the left bare foot!

[@monsterzero5650]

You know how long I've been waiting for someone to do a good video on a conversation like this? Too long. Electrify all the things!

[@davisdiercks]

Foot steering was legendary 😂

[@4727thomas]

Pretty sure it's just because you are at low rpm without using the hall sensor for the rotor position. I'm pretty on one clip we can see that the sensor connector not connected to the esc. If your controller doesn't provide sensor support, you could look for VESC controller, trempa makes some good ones, there is also a company called 3shull that sell some for higher voltage. In addition, VESC would allow you to add a throttle pedal / handle natively

[@65bug519]

So the is a rubber vane pump down at the bottom, you have to remove the lower unit to get to it, this will be adding a lot od friction if you keep it there.

[@Xanderman89]

Bro, I give you props (pun intended) but you con a boat with your foot like it’s another arm. That’s impressive, it reminds me of armless driver videos I’ve seen. The concept is awesome regardless, amazing video but the steering with a foot was the highlight for me.

[@cadsonmikael9119]

Woaha! Nice!! 2 times more power at 2 times higher rpm with higher voltage. You migh need to consider a gearbox or a decreased pitch. 2 times the speed 4 times the drag and all that.

[@mjodr]

You need to raise that motor up on the transom. The prop is totally buried right now which increases the load and slows the whole thing down.