Mini DLG Composite 1000mm from HobbyKing

[@rodneyclarke]

Hi Bruce, I am glad to see that you have had so much trouble with this thing. I am new to RC flight and have only 10 planes but when I bought this one I had the same issues (and I thought it was just me!!). I am about to watch episode 2 of this so I am hoping for a silver bullet !! thanks for doing such a great job, I love your videos.

[@eurigjonesfpv9823]

I'm a massive miniquad fan, but it's really great to hear about other reviews like this. I've not flown anything like that so was very interesting. Good vid Bruce.

[@MrKeepingitrealau]

Please get it going. I want to see it fly. I am currently scratch building my 3rd dlg and I'm loving the whole experience. Cmon Bruce. Get cracking. 😁😎👍

[@Pickled72]

Can't you unscrew the servos, pop them out and mount the rx aft of them? Just leave the antennas in the pod, its glass. And then stick the battery up front with any lead you need.

[@YensR]

That's what I was thinking, too. Maybe instead of the cardboard(?) housing, Bruce could shrink-wrap the receiver so it fits better underneath the rods? Otherwise, maybe cutting an opening between the two wing mount holes could work? When then fixing the wing, it will act as a brace over that weakening cut. Just an idea. And yes, before throwing it away, I'd give it a go. Would certainly make for an educational video, whatever the outcome, IMO.

[@glenncol]

I was going to suggest the same thing,

[@Cyberdactyl]

Exactly. Mount the Rx on edge between the rods. He could also remove the Rx case and use shrink to reduce the thickness 10-20%.

[@mwmannel]

You can't leave us hanging. I'll be looking for part 2.

[@markusritter3636]

Hi Bruce, I really like this review so far. I do own a Versus DLG and a Elf (1000 mm). With the Elf the receiver is "incorporated in/underneath the wing, So they made a cutout bay in the center of the wing joint, and that is where the receiver sits in. Now with the HK DLG, I would cut a hole in between the 2 wing screw holes, big enough to get a receiver down, sitting on CG As for the battery I would be using either a 2 cell 170-240 with a voltage regulator, or go with one cell and use a booster. The best choice probably is a smart lipo 250 or 500. If the servos are high voltage servos (which I would be using if I would buy and build the ARF), then you can skip all of that and just use a 2 cell lipo. Cheers from Canada. Looking forward to part 2 of the review.

[@JayC133]

Bruce, what I did with mine is move the servos back in their tray. Used those little Allen key clamp things for the push rods on the servos. Used the same receiver as you but used a 600mah 1 cell and a voltage regulator thing. Hope this helps.

[@remauled]

Hi Bruce, try this. Unscrew the servo horns then the servos and slip the RX to the fuselage cavity. Might need to enlarged the hatch to get the RX in. Have fun! Nice work you're doing down south.

[@JaredReabow]

Bruce, i would suggest you cut an opening behind the hatch to slot the RX in, that leaves all of the nose cavity to squash in a battery. you wont be compromising integrity really as the body is rigid anyway and you wont be landing on the top. Or remove the servo temporarily them slot in the RX and you have the same result, all the nose sace to use!

[@RoboTekno]

Come on Bruce, you know we want more, haha. It would be interesting to know how an experienced modeler, like yourself, would get this glider to fly well. It may fly poorly, but that's better than letting it sit in the shop. If you need nose weight, put a small brushless motor in there (perhaps from an old mini quad if small enough) and a small folding prop on there. It could make a very fun warm-liner!! Seriously; I'd make it a motor glider if I were in your shoes, Bruce :-)

[@SuperAmoL3D]

Hi Bruce If the problem occurred when you put the servo plugs in, why not to try making them shorter ? There are several means to do that, from soldering tiny wires to the receiver to making your own connectors - I make some by unsheathing the extremity of a stranded wire, at the end of which I put very tight heat shrink tube (no shred must be exposed); then I shrink it without the pin inserted ; the diameter of the tube should be chosen so that once shrunk, there would be a hole the size of the actual receiver pins or little less. The receiver pins insert into the shrunk tube by forcing them into (it shall be easy and not dig the shreds far into the tube). It makes a reliable connection, and it is more practical than definitively soldering. The wire needs to be stranded as the connection is actually only done by pressing it around and against the receiver pin, within the heat shrink tube. If done correctly, it WILL work (I testify). If needed I could try posting a photo somewhere.

[@xjet]

SuperAmoL3D Yes, I had contemplated that but that still leaves me with the issue of where the antenna can go to avoid that carbon. I'm pretty much decided that I'll get the receiver in under the wing so I can put a decent sized-battery in the nose. Now it's just a case of figuring out how to do that.

[@SuperAmoL3D]

***** How about simply putting the antenna under the carbon plate, or drilling a 1mm hole in the nose to let the antenna through ?

[@xjet]

SuperAmoL3D One of the problems is that in order to plug and unplug the battery, you have to pull stuff out of the nose to gain access to the necessary plugs. This would mean having to rethread the receiver antenna through a tiny hole each and every time. What a lot of farting around!

[@SuperAmoL3D]

***** Is it impossible to put the batteries over the receiver and to remove the batteries only ?

[@powernumpty]

If you can get the RX behind the servo tray (by taking out servos, or arms, as others say) have an extension with just GND,5V and two servo signals pins coming under the servo tray to the front, add connector(s) once threaded. Common up the servo GND and supplies keep the voltage converter and battery in front of the servos?

[@conrad5551]

Bruce ..I would try and cut out a hole at the cg point under the wing. This way the rx could be inserted and the integrity wouldn't be compromised as the edges of the fuselage would be intact and the the wing would cover the hole. The battery could then be placed in the nose with any extra weight .

[@therealxunil2]

I'd sure like to see you make it work, Bruce. At this point I don't think I'll be buying one of them, but I'd like to know how much work it actually takes to get it flying. Maybe it won't be so hard to do once you've sorted out the hard part!

[@Atka59]

Okay Bruce, my friend here is my stab at it. The receiver connector pins seem long enough to be bent 90 degrees and still have enough length for the plug to connect, that way your initial configuration will still work, I think. Or, I could be selfish and say "scrap it" and get to making the Super ZMR 250 video including "the fours" component and retailer suggestions; which is what I am really most anxious to see! Regardless, I will be happy because everything you do is worth watching, and some of it is downright essential viewing!! Cheers!

[@superdau]

None of the pins I've ever seen survived a 90° bend in another direction. They always seem to be made out of brittle metal. And soldering different pins seems way too much effort for a model like this. A thing that doesn't even have a motor is boring anyway ;)

[@Atka59]

superdau I thought that preheating the pins with a soldering iron before bending would do the trick, I may be wrong as I have not tried it myself.

[@Detlef50]

Atka59 I agree! Best way to get more space in the nose of the fuge. In my MiniDLG I install a 1S Lion battery of an old smart phone with 280mAh, size of 44x25x4mm and a voltage booster.

[@philscsa]

I slid the RX under the sevo tray , dropped in a couple of Blue diamond servos, fitted a single lipo, took it out and flew it; whats all the wingeing about. Before the war we had to grow our own balsa - great model

[@waynerussell6401]

Yes the nose is too short, but that also makes it stronger. The first order of priority in these mass produced craft is to lighten the back. Carbon veil adds little strength. At this scale plain light 1.5mm balsa tails are ok. Quick wipe with PU to seal and carbon tow edge to the fin bottom. Ditch the rod connectors for pull spring. Balsa pylon for glued on stab. Light sanding of boom rear may be useful - lot thicker section than I use for One metres. Up front ditch the ubec - use 1S like Joe Wurts, and 200mA is plenty for analogues. Some use three cells from 9v NiMh in triangular configuration. 3ch receiver no case like the FlySky is all you need (with failsafe on the elevator). Long range not required on a small DLG with 400ft ceiling. Last resort make oval hole between wing bolts, reinforce edge with carbon tow. Use switch jack rather than removing batteries. Use the blade - a peg has more drag than those wing imperfections! More comfortable - launch from pads, don't wrap fingers round. If setting up for left handers need to swap rudder horn sides! Consider more glass on nose rather than dead weights. Servos likely to be low res poor centering so try before committing and get D47 replacements. Thread here: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2139656&pp=50

[@MrTommymxr]

pull out the servos and put the receiver behind the servos. you could then put the battery in the nose. or cut out the bottom behind the servos and lipo in the front aswell.

[@thomasphillips885]

Wow, the servos are quite big. I wonder why they haven't put them side-by-side like the 950mm

[@wtfiswiththosehandles]

You can remove the servos to have some wiggle room in there... and also strip the receiver of it's cardboardey packaging to make it slimmer... and you might be able to squeeze it under the wing like you wanted.

[@arturn.6404]

Hi Bruce. Did you considered solder servo wires and battery plug to RX PCB.

[@tommuhlemanjr.3871]

Anybody can dump it and say the hell with it Bruce. I'd like to see you be the mate that makes it work, Uncase the receiver, cut down the servo leads/pins, move the servo's side by side, replace the servo tray with something non-conductive, or mount the receiver behind the servo's with soldered wire leads and place the 300 mAh lipo in the nose --- whatever. One way would make a hell of a good video, the other... not so much!! You've got my vote.. :)

[@GraemeDJ]

Any chance of a review of the Hobbyking Cumulus?

[@MsScoooper]

a Lemon RX ( They come in either up or strait pins) would drop right in, the RX's your using are kinda big, a 200 two-cell and a 8amp brushed ESC for a voltage reg,( about the size of your pinky fingernail) would fit up there, I've used this set-up in the last three DLG's I've built and their flawless, Thanks for your vid's and great advice, I really enjoy your reviews,

[@MrExv8er]

Hi from cairns Australia. I have one of these gliders. I used a V8FR11 receiver removed from case & headshrinked with a 1s 300mah nano-tech battery. To add weight for CG i used a small piece of alfoil to creat a cup in nose which i melted solder / led into. flys great. oh & no BEC, the servos & reciver are good on 1s :) Ps, love the Chanel, & keep up the good work Bruce Cheers Michael.

[@xjet]

MrExv8er Where did you put the V8FRII receiver????? Even without the case, there's no way that will fit in the front of this pod.

[@MrExv8er]

***** Some photos of the installation, plus the repair of the week point at the front of the boom. IMHO use a bit of that fiberglass supplied to reinforce the join between boom & fuselage. s245.photobucket.com/user/exv8er/library/RC

[@miguelh.m.m.6911]

It would require a lot of work, but you may be able to sand or trim the canopy opening at the nose end and extend the sides up, modeling it with more fiberglass. It will give you more room and weight. You may have to replace the canopy also.

[@nemosaunders8807]

Can you remove the servos and slide the receiver under the tray? You could run a servo extension under there to power it.

[@kf7tkj]

I would like to see how you solve the problem! Build it!

[@gregkienle3378]

Foamy sheet stuff... good one!

[@jacobrachwal7625]

You should put a hole in the front for the antenna to poke out of and then wrap the antenna around the bottom and secure it with a piece of tape.

[@yodaiam1000]

Solder the servos direct to the Rx. Take off the Rx cover and clip the prongs back a bit. Take out the servo tray and rebuild if you have to (to place the Rx behind the servos). This provides more room for a heavier battery. I am no expert but this is just my 2 cents. Are these HV servos? BEC necessary? Use NiMH @ 4.8V? PS-Never give up. I assembled the "fling" DLG and then reassembled and then reassembled again until that darn thing flew. It still likes to fall apart easily and flies like a tank but I think you learn the most from the most difficult planes even if it frustrating. If you wreck the plane in the end, it doesn't matter. The worst that can happen is that you learn something.

[@SuperMartyWorld]

Use a Lemon featherlight Rx. They come with pins in either configuration or just trim the pins and lose the servo connectors and solder. I vote for part 2.

[@ArduinoKing]

Might be able to push the receiver back if you take the servos out and thread it under the plate, towards the tail. Then you might be able to fit a bigger battery to balance it.

[@dirkhenkel9410]

Hi Bruce, take out the servos and put the receiver in the back then, would that be possible ? Maybe you´ll have to take out the carbon board too but that´ll be eaysy to glue back in. Not a perfect solution but maybe better than cutting in holes anywhere ;)

[@cup_and_cone]

I think you should just pack it back up, return it, and test out that Hobby King customer service. ;-)

[@rodswim91]

There is a 1.5m that just came out! Maybe you can compare efficiency of gliders and how size affects the way you fly

[@emanuelstassar]

Hi Bruce, sorry to see you suffer like this. Been there, done that... How easy is it to shorten the boom a bit? It will save some lead in the front. Btw. what are those blocks attached to the steering rods?

[@stephen071195]

are you able to remove the servo's from the servo tray temporarily to put the receiver behind them and then put them back in with the battery and ubec in the front?

[@jakubmarszal9262]

You could cut off pins from reciver and solder wires directly to save some space and curl up antena under reciver case.

[@averagemodeler]

I'm with the guys down below. Pull the servos out mount under the linkages, or cut out a piece where the wing goes. Then bolt the wing back on to get the strength back

[@reinforcedoctocopters2993]

ive damaged the coax antennas on my Devo-RX702 reciver could you do a vid how to solder new ones on.

[@phill5917]

I have flown both the 950 and the composite version. If your looking for somthing a little more stronger that will stay airborn longer then go with the composite. They also make receivers small enough to fit in that tight area. If you just want something thats quick to build /don't care of the duration of shorter flight then go with the 950. It wil thermal okay but the 1000 composite would be better.

[@britinozoz]

Greetings Bruce....what a pain....But I would suggest that you "try" to remove the servo tray ( in that very restricted area) and mount it rearwards. You may have to enlarge the hatch. The problem wing can be fixed with gently application of heat and weight. But lets face it....,very little thought has gone into the R/C installation. Happy Landings Chris...

[@Sundheden]

Remove the servo plugs, solder the wires directly on the reciever-board. Also, if you have another cell of those round batteries, use 3S so you get more weight and juice, and just tune the step-down regulator accordingly.

[@gordon238]

Hi Bruce, I would use a dremel with a Tungsten Carbide Cutter and remove the servo tray, then make a new one out of ply.

[@gearratioheadrc1317]

I really enjoy your reviews an videos. Keep up the great work. If you're going to customize that 1000mm DLG ; why not put a pusher prop with a blue wonder motor. Using a triple 5" by 3 prop. Mount the motor on top of the wing with prop being just behind the cg. Esc mounted just outside behind canopy opening for cooling. Hope that helps.

[@wordreet]

Hobbyking do a Hitec compatible 2g micro receiver for around $17AUD, though it allegedly only has a 300mtr range. But how visible is a slender 1m glider at any more than a thousand feet anyway?

[@AllanSanderson77]

can you just unscrew the connections off the top of the servo and slip the Rx past it?

[@nilz__]

Hi Bruce, where you hungry and was your stomach growling or was that something else lol.@7:20 for example.

[@pimpedimpim]

Can you review the lemon rx receivers?

[@250kent]

Here in the US products often get released before the maturation. It drives me mad, but if you leave it as is W/O making some smart modifications you will be making the same fool move they did. I say extend the front and use battery counter weight instead of lead. It looks like they easy and quick for production but not the end user. Its important what you have to say about them is published, and how your reengineering was done, I am sure there's a lot of unhappy campers that have already purchased this. Keep up the good work I have enjoyed all of your vids.

[@michaelmickoberhaus8009]

I'm an experienced pilot with little money, I want another Dlg what do you suggest for under $200 with ship.?

[@TimJC513]

HobbyKing just released the 1500mm version of this on their HobbyKing Live channel.

[@BradBauter]

I say you finish it. I want to learn how you would solve this problem. FYI, I do believe they just released an updated 1M DLG last week. Wonder if any of the issues you are seeing are solved?

[@Cleveroldguy]

Put extension leads on the RX remove the servos and tray install the RX behind without cutting the fuselage except for a hole for the aerial if required, reinstall the tray, stick bigger batteries in the remaining nose space. Connect everything up in the front to the extension leads.

[@TilmanBaumann]

Talking battery and weight. I like those batteries that come with the Alula for tight dlg noses. They are not very easy to fund, once I find a source I usually buy a bunch.

[@ME-zu5kg]

Bruce stick the aerial through a small hole in the front nose then the batts fit under the servos.

[@AlexDC93]

I'm wondering would it be ok to mount the receiver outside, on top just behind the opening and then just drill out a small hole for the wires to the battery and servos. No issues with space, no issues with carbon blocking the signal and the receiver is light so has minimal effect on the CG and then you could have a larger battery. Or would this just be terrible? I have no experience with this type of vehicle so I don't know if the drag would just be too much or not.

[@xjet]

AlexDC93 Low drag is important with a DLG because immediately out of the launch, they're moving pretty quickly and any extra drag will work against getting a decent altitude out of the throw.

[@MsScoooper]

The ESC is used as a UBEC, half the weight and size

[@DutchRC]

Ohwwwww you've sold your soul to HK! :O (Or so I read in a previous video) ;) Just being sarcastic offcourse.. I'm quite interested to see what you think of this one! I allso had the mini DLG you did some reviewing of previously.. Have fun & keep the good reviews comming :) Comparing the down-stroke of the elevator to the mini, I THINK it should just be enough (?) .. take a look at your own mini :) Would you be able to get the receiver Behind the servo's by the way? Maybe after removing them first.. Ps: oooeps.. It's bigger sister was just released ;)

[@oscarzt1652]

if it was mine, i would cut a long hole in the bottom of the fuselage section and then tape it back on when i had everything in place

[@billsflyingstuff]

Trim the opening large enough ahead & behind the servos for your install, then use a side of an appropriate plastic water or pop bottle for your canopy. Try to find one with the proper compound curve.

[@ledzyz]

Bruce, why not cut the nose where the section is large enough to accommodate your desired battery and extend it forward with a wrap of carbon cloth, it's going to add weight, but you wanted more nose weight and more space, so... two birds. It's going to look a dog (with its snout) , but maybe it will save it from flying like one. Good luck, hope it works out as I'm really interested in your reviews of these DLGs, I'd love to have one but they are so prohibitively expensive to import to RSA, so a HK DLG might have to do. Cheers

[@GibbonFPV]

How can you have a plane for a year and not open it?! Also have you ever reviewed the appolo glider from HK? It's only £60 so I might get it.

[@xjet]

supermattJD Yes, I've had it for a year and knew it would be over 100g so when the autumn came last year I put it aside. DLGs are most fun in the spring and summer (when thermals abound) so there was little point in building it to fly in the colder months.

[@mitchpw2996]

I can't have a plane for more than 14 seconds before I have to see it :)

[@GibbonFPV]

Mitch Probert Watt same here

[@BikingVikingHH]

GibbonFPV Allen Moore has a review of the Apollo with build videos

[@mrmurder75]

I would mount the rx on the wing on the cg mark. That will give you more room in the nose and you won't have to add so much dead weight (I hate adding dead weight too!) ok, it might not look too pretty and although minimal, would cause drag but at least you will be able to fly it. Don't let it beat you Bruce! If in doubt, bodge it! :o)

[@mrmurder75]

Sorry, wrote without thinking it through. Mount it before the cg and take the hit on the dead weight. But mount the bigger and heavier rx so will save a little extra weight.

[@boberitobroberto2654]

Bruce Lee Jet!!! I don't believe you have done an update in a long while!

[@JHTPPX]

What most people are saying Rx and ubec behind the servos batt up front! Looks like the only option! No need to go cutting holes in the fuse!!!

[@xjet]

JHTPPX Unless I can find some way to get the receiver past the servo plate (which is glued in solid) then I'll have to cut a hole in the fuse to get access to the area under the wing.

[@raymondbivens5787]

Take the servos out and maybe u could get a reciever under or behind the servo tray. Then battery up front. Maybe remove the case from the receiver and cut down the plugs/wires. Hopefully it will fit

[@sambarnwell4495]

I bought the arf version a while back and supplies my own servos. With the arf version the servo tray is not pre installed so i mounted it as far back as possible and i still had to add weight to the nose (even with reciever, 2s pack and ubec). Now i cant reallly comment on the flying because it was my first dlg, but i can comment on build quality. The first day i flew it i got in around 25 throws. Less than half were hard ones. Ave flight time was less than one min (maybe due to my

[@1974charrua]

Thanks for the video, and asking for our opinions !! THUMBS UP What I would do is cut the nose and put a balsa firewall with 4.2gram outrunner and a folding prop , beats lead and repetitive launches .

[@wilianamaral]

why not cut out the servo tray and put those as far back as you can and then squeeze your RC gear in, Bruce? I really enjoyed the review! Keep it up! And my trashcan is always open for your garbage! LOL

[@xjet]

Wilian Amaral Sadly, the servo-tray seems really well glued in place :-(

[@frankyhall1271]

***** shame they didn't include that same glue for the finger piece!

[@danthescrapmetalman7721]

***** maybe try cutting groves to mount the servos on a 90 degree angle from there current angle further back if you know what I mean

[@wilianamaral]

***** epic fail from hobby king. The only solution I can think it to perform a little "surgery", cut oss the servo tray from the pod walls and re-glue it further back. lots of heeadache and pain but eventually it will clear space in the front to fit your batteries instead of lead.

[@VideoSack]

***** Plus, that would place even more weight rearward! I'd be tempted to mount the receiver, perhaps the batteries outboard, at the nose. Not clean, not pretty but like a lot of FPV, GPS builds carrying so much extra gear all over the place. What about adding a well designed extended nose cap? Will take some extra fabrication but may allow the added room and access you need?

[@tdogfpv]

how can you love wood over carbon/kevlar?! I Think I will still buy this model, because, first, it is composite, secondly, Spektrum receivers can be very small, thirdly, this is carbon and kevlar. This will not be broken easily in a crash like balsa. I would say the plane is worth it after the work of putting the receiver, battery, and bec into the plane

[@MeatTheBible]

What if you took the plastic case off the receiver and shrink wrapped the guts? Great reviews. Keep um coming. -COLE

[@miodice3]

4:00 lol died laughing, love your reviews cheers

[@marhar2]

Bruce, got a link for the power regulator?

[@MartinE63]

I'm not Bruce but "3A DC DC converter step down adjustable" should find them on ebay. The adjustment needs a tiny screwdriver and a steady hand. Sealing the potentiometer with a dab of paint or hot melt would be a good idea to stop the voltage moving with vibration or handling.

[@marhar2]

***** Thanks Martin!

[@timwatterson8060]

I'd see if a sacrificial nose could be made to hold the battery and/or receiver this will hold the weight out more so their is no need for dead weight.

[@RobB_VK6ES]

As much as I like the D4r II RX's those pins can be awkward in tight situations. Maybe not for the feint hearted but It is possible to remove the pins and solder some new pins but facing backward along the PCB or even solder the servo tails direct to the PCB after removing the pins.

[@_droid]

The FrSky VD5M is smaller and I measure 2.25 grams with the cover on it. All it needs is to replace the antenna with a better one but I don't think it's any worse than that one you're using.

[@xjet]

droid I wouldn't trust the VD5M in a 1m DLG. In my experience, they have a range of only 300m or so.

[@ztoon13]

I've this dlg since this summer, fly very well. The original servo layout is a nightmare (I ended with a HK 3 ch Rx behind the servos). Use some CA debonder (green bottle from hk) and the servo tray get off your way easy.

[@davidwood4325]

Cant see a quick fix at all mate, servo try cut out and move back but like you said " plug and play" it's NOT!! THE QUESTION IS DO YOU REALLY WANT TO FLY IT IF NOT FORGET IT MATE. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK LIVE WATCHING YOU..

[@3imbored]

Unhook and unscrew the trey and use the wider reciever and that way you can use a heavier battery and (if you splice 2 together) you can stack them and have twice the fly time and extra weight on it

[@larz0001]

hi bruce long time watcher first time opinion, why not open a section under the wing between wing bolts, just large enough for the rx to fit and secure it as far forward as possible, at 3g it wont make a lot of difference,, just my $0.02worth

[@marcuswetterbro8455]

i can recommend the vladimir models elf if u are looking after a 100g dlg superb quality and flies great

[@juergenstremmler2286]

Make a small tray for the servos , move them a little back to get space for the RX and your batteries.

[@pmikey666]

This model is designed around a nicad/Nimh and micro 35mhz radio that's why the nose is so short. If it where me I would cut a hatch between the wing mounting bolts under the wing seat this should allow you to get a receiver in easily as for nose weight if you need to add lead make a mould using the models nose and cast a lead weight. Alternative is some lead shot mixed with epoxy but this is messy and can't be removed. Also I always fit a switch to my DLGs for power supply as its sod law that the day you go flying is the day the connector breaks.

[@ChuckPlains]

Looking back at this video, I would have sawn the nose off, then epoxied up a light glass 'sleeve' around the back of it to slide over the fuselage and hatch and then hold the lot in place with electrical tape.

[@BenPortmanlewes]

You've got to finish it Bruce.... Deep breath.....not exactly plug an play is it? BTW, I'm hoping you'll have the time to review the GE250.. I like to think of it as the new ZMR... and the Tarot 250.. let's hope they send you the bundle too, I've just had a right DLG1000 built with it, only their kit fits without a major fart about.

[@giarcnamron2566]

Take the challenge Bruce make it work, you can't not build it. That's what it's all about with model builders your not going store bought ready to fly all the time...are you? I say build it! lol

[@oscarzt1652]

also, depending on how much space there is under the servo tray, put the 18 gram battery in the nose, put the small regulator underneath the servo tray and then put the receiver underneath where the wings bolt on to. again i still think a hole is needed to be cut on the bottom side of the fuse.

[@xjet]

Oscar Thorpe There's very little space under the servo tray -- I looked at trying to put something under there and it's a no-go.

[@oscarzt1652]

ah ok. this dlg is really starting to sound crap

[@jasonpointer]

get rid of the pins and connectors and wire in the servos directly to the recivier and make a special plug so you can charge the battery while its still in the model. (cutting down the connectors will almost half it size)

[@BLThackrey]

the words "high performance" and "hobby king" in the same sentence !!

[@oilpond]

WILL IT BLEND?

[@MrMuttonboy]

Why dont you cut the nose clean off so you can stuff all the gear in and put the nose back on like a cowling over some glued in struts?

[@hollywoodjoe67]

Id move servos towards the wing and pack all ur gear in the front

[@tungruffel]

Is there any product or model you actually LIKE??

[@zyoungson]

I vote put a mini quad motor on the front

[@jalmarverbraak5662]

The others say it to but screw out the servos put your reciever back there and put the servos back in place battery and maybe some weight

[@donatasmontrimas5148]

If remove receiver from case and servo leads solder in directly without connectors

[@xjet]

Donatas Montrimas How do I unplug the battery when finished flying?

[@donatasmontrimas5148]

***** Battery connector the only one you leave :)

[@peterwebster3076]

hi bruce firstly another great video and secondly couldn't you cut the nose off and extend it with glass fibre thus giving more nose weight and more room up front keep the videos coming bruce I look for new ones everyday

[@MrTeeseeone]

Do the rvjet!! 😁👍