RDWorks Learning Lab 144 New laser head

[@DrDouglasGScott]

I don't even own a laser, but I'm enthralled by your videos -- it's such a privilege to watch someone work so patiently toward perfection. Thank you!

[@jameslamb4573]

Damn Russ you keep astounding me with your attention to detail. I have been considering buying a set of lenses to play with myself but having watched this all I can think is "when is Russ going to release his definitive laser alignment and lens kit to the world?" Sign me up for one, not sure that anodised aluminium is needed, acrylic seems to work fine. Thanks for all the work you have put into "China Blue" it has certainly made my laser cutting a whole lot easier.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi James Yes acrylic does work fine and it's a great prototyping material. However, I have a Mk2 design in metal underway that allows me a slightly different approach to solving the same problem. As with all prototypes, after struggling to get the major conceptual issues organized into a practical solution, when you study the 3D outcome, and after several days of unconscious thinking, other solutions gestate into a better and more refined solution. Watch this space. Best wishes Russ

[@Bobs1Models]

As usual a brilliant video. Thanks for all the hard work you put into this design. I cannot wait for the drawings to become availableso I can build the same sort of system. Bob

[@williamkelley5927]

Another great video Russ. Can't wait to see the final decision you make. You don't know how many times I have started to take a hammer to my equipment. But, then I started watching your videos and have had nothing but sucesses. Thanks again for what you do for us.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Bill I enter most of my sessions with an idea and a vague plan but because it's a live learning journey there is never any guarantee of success. I am never fearful of showing you my failures because knowing the path to failure helps others avoid it. Your success is all down to your own effort and perseverance. my only contribution has been to lend you a torch. Best wishes Russ

[@thebeststooge]

I love that aluminium back plate you made and OMG, that tapping attachment for your drill press made me drool.

[@imajeenyus42]

So, that's one heck of a neat design, I really like it! I can appreciate the need for full adjustment on the head - with my laser (the one I spent months rebuilding), there's no adjustment on the head at all. My only way of adjusting height was the tube mounts themselves, which was extremely tedious during the initial setup. I had thought of modifying the head, but I was simply glad to get it working and not spend any more time on it! I predict that in a few months, some enterprising Chinese company will have seen your video and will be making heads like this ;-) If you do go for a metal one, depending on how you're getting the metal cut, you can basically do exactly the same construction as you did with the acrylic, with mortise & tenon joints. Once assembled, you can give each tenon a brief zap with a TIG welder to fuse it into the surrounding sheet. Gives a very rigid construction.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Lindsay Tenon and TIG weld fuse welds is an approach I have been using for many years. There are very few things I cannot make from 2D parts. I am not just copying this design in metal but adapting the design to a more sophisticated level to exploit the strengths of metal. So there will soon be a Mk2 and I will see if I can back engineer it to acrylic for others to make for themselves. Best wishes Russ

[@T70781]

I really enjoy the way you bracket all the variables then wrestle them into submission one by one ;-)

[@tonylorentzen]

Hi Russ - where do you get the PETG welding cement from. Can't find anyone here in Denmark that sells it.

[@joannerevill9592]

Hi Russ, Another great video. Will you be making your plans for the acrylic head available?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

`Hi John I have just finished designing a Mk2 version in metal that improves even more usability aspects. I hope I will be able to transfer the essence of this mk2 design back into acrylic for others to build for themselves. So hold your breath and for a while and I'll see what's possible. Best wishes Russ

[@frac]

Just a thought. Can you reduce the power programmatically? Would it let you write orientation marks in the surface of the material without cutting all the way through. Failing that, you could laser a tiny hole as an orientation marker. For example, "Align single dots and double dots when assembling!"

[@SarbarMultimedia]

The simple answer is yes.. At present there are no drawings available for release because despite being successful it is a 3D prototype. I am now self criticizing it and in the process of designing a metal MK2 version with much easier to use features. I may try to translate this design backwards for acrylic manufacture so that people can make for themselves. As I do so I shall make the location tangs in different positions so that it can only be assembled the correct way. That would be the normal way of fool-proofing assembly. Thanks for the suggestion Best wishes Russ

[@1010tesla]

what is the advantage of making it with aluminum other than being resistant to a beam strike?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I am already working on the Mk 2 metal design which will not be a straight copy of the Mk1 acrylic . I have decided that for many manufacturing and design reasons I will make it from thin stainless steel but the mirror will remain in an anodized aluminium housing, just in case the beam is a a bit off target during set up. Best wishes Russ

[@freddotu]

Another great video! I would love to see this adapted to the Red Sail clones as well. Russ, the red clone I have uses the same "hinge" style screws for mirror adjustment as your modification. It makes alignment as easy as you show it. While watching your amazing work, I wondered how I managed to get nearly centered results without the adjustable head assembly you've created. I believe it is possible because the entire mirror holder can be shifted by turning all three adjustment screws either direction, which accomplishes what your adjustable head accomplishes, although without nearly as much travel. When reaching travel limits on the screws, it is necessary to return to the tube and raise or lower it to return the beam within range of the adjustment screws. A big job, clearly simplified by your design. Very nicely done. On an unrelated note, have you considered to put your massive engineering talent into creating a reflection test device? There's been some discussion of "bounce-back" of certain metals causing damage to a laser. If you had a caddy/fixture to place test metal samples at the focus of the nozzle, at a 45° angle, would your power meter be able to read how much of the energy is absorbed by the test metal and how much would be reflected into the nozzle? I would envision that a test taken at the focus with the power meter, compared to the reflected power, would determine which metals should be safe to lase for projects involving paint removal or the like.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Reflectivity is a vast subject but if you narrow it down to our IR wavelength of 10.6 microns every metal is reflective. The degree for the majority is above 80% and metals such as copper brass, aluminium, gold and silver will be at 99% and above depending on the surface oxidation. An oxide is a non-metal and will absorb the light energy. If 99% of the energy is reflected then because it has been concentrated into pin prick, because 80% of the light energy is at the central part of that pin prick there will not be much scattering because that high energy near the beam axis will be reflected back nearly normal to the surface. Just like waves hitting a sea wall there will be cancellations and amplification of energy as it is reflected so some of the energy reaching your lens could be much higher than when it passed through . Marking stainless steel objects by burning away the powder coating is a regular question . Stainless steel is about 95% reflective in it's polished condition. However cover it with paint and it is non rflective. The light energy hitting the paint excites the powder coat molecules into a higher state of vibration. As that vibration increases so does the paint temperature. At anything between 100C and 200C (depending on the powder formulation) melting will occur. Much above that and all sorts of chemical reactions start to take place. The real tell tale is if you attack powder coat with a blow lamp you will produce a charred mess. Charring generally means carbon and carbon has a "melting" point of about 3500C. So it requires huge amounts of energy to raise the carbon to its sublimation temperature where it will turn into a gas and leave a nice clean surface behind. If you balance power and speed there will be very little surplus energy to reflect back to your lens. In the majority of cases you will be engraving on a slightly curved surface so and rays that bounce off will be scattered harmlessly. In general I would advise using a longer focal length lens for such work at least a 2" or even a 2.5" would be saferbecause the reflected energy densities will be lower. I have only destroyed one 1.5" lens whilst trying to mark uncoated stainless. That will be the last one!!! Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

Curious if there are any updates on this? Plans on production? Maybe Cloudray could take over. My fingers are european.. And large i hate adjusting the tiny mirrors. Forget locking the screws.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

3 years passed and I continued to devlop my machine. If you jump to kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJKxqH6eibehmpo you will see the new Mk2 lightweight head plus more. Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you. Will be next video. Watching a bunch of your stuff. Love the scientific thought process.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

@@turboflush My pleasure is in decoding the technology and not using it. I am happy to improve the knowledge so that others can make more money by exploiting better efficiency Best wishes Russ

[@turboflush]

@@SarbarMultimedia Feels a bit that you do more engineering than the engineers on these. :)

[@imajeenyus42]

Just asking as I watch along ;-) Your glue - is it anything special, or just superglue? I've had bad experiences with superglue and laser-cut acrylic. Things look OK initially, but after a few days you get stress cracking from near the cut edge.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Lindsay Cast acrylic is less prone (but not imune) to stress cracking. The PETG cerment I use is less dramatic than standard acrylic cement. I used it for a PETG job originally but found that it works well with acrylic but takes a bit longer to set. Maybe that's why it cracks less. Here is what I use www.bondrite.co.uk/adhesives-for-plastics/wc123-petg-weld-cement-250ml/p340483.html Best wishes Russ

[@TheSn1per]

Looks great Russ. I do have a Q. Perhaps I missed something along the way. The lens adaptors your inserting obviously would be required to utilize your system. Where does one get such a lens kit. Also, does the lens kit only go up to 2.5" OR say to 4" or greater? Im sure others would be interested in knowing the cost of a lens kit as well. -Sam

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Sam The problem with this design is that it was a prototype to test all the ideas. As you know, I don't do things behind closed doors so this was a bit of a "let's see what's possible". The biggest being to prove the stability of acrylic for such a laughable application. I had planned to make a metal version but that would mean that others could not follow if they wished and I was locked into doing something I don't want to do, which is selling an expensive product. I don't need to be selling things, thus my goal is always to provide designs and information so that you can do it yourself as cheaply as possible. First it was all about proving the principle and after a few weeks of using it I'm very happy. However.....as you have rightly observed, I had to make a lens tube for every focal length. Although OK for me, because I have the kit to make them, this was a significant negative if others wanted to try and follow me. Hence I looked hard at the design and have now worked on a MK 2. With just one nozzle and one modified 20mm style lens tube (like I have on the Lightblade machine). I can cater for 1.5", 2", 2.5" and my compound HD lens system. With a slightly modified nozzle you could also fit a 4" lens. I did not fit the 4" lens into my brief because folks with this China blue machine usually stick at about 60 to 80 watts where a 4" lens is just a blunt axe. This design is being specifically developed to fit the 300x500mm blue machines with a FRONT FACING bearing on the X axis. I am no planning on developing one for the Red Sail clone machines using the TOP FACING bearing system because designing a suitably stiff mount will be a nightmare. Even with my fairly rigid front mount system I have accidentally identified a problem that I have seen on other machines and been unable to fathom the source of the issue . Now I know, it has forced me to dump my aluminium back-plate in favor of a REALLY rigid design. All will become clear in about a week when I plan to publish my MK2 design and spell out the manufacturing options that I hope will suit the varied skill and equipment capabilities of the many interested parties. I still plan to sell as little as possible but I will try to help those with enthusiasm and skills but no manufacturing kit. I will be posting the dxf files and parts list on a couple of sites for people to download and modify as they feel fit to suit their machines. Thanks for your interest All best wishes Russ

[@TheSn1per]

Russ, Thanks for the speedy (laser like answer ). So If I understood you correctly you made your Laser Lens holders? Also, I ask about the / say a 4" or greater. As of lately a few of my projects have me cutting foam. So the Axe metaphor is a good one. (foam >1"-3") . Also, have you thought about running the laser for some 1-5-10 mins and taking temperature measurements from the backside of the 3rd mirror? My guess is you should be able to predict the longevity of the perspex with the gathered information. with hopes of the MK1 being sufficient. Like you. I too dont mind machining out my own parts if need be. But if the laser can do it and the part be good enough?. then let the lasing begin! I know now after more than a hundred vids you already know this. You are a true asset to human kind Russ! I'll have the popcorn ready for the MK2 showing.:) *** Meant to add. Dont know about the others. But Im interested in your lens tubes and how you approached the builds. I have been contemplating making my own corrected 3rd mirror and lens holder from aluminum. -Sam

[@thomasthompson2039]

So what what is my problem if I can’t get the two dots to line up on top of each other no matter what I do. From one end of travel to the other the bee moves

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Thomas you problem description is a bit vague but it sounds as thogh you have a beam alignment issue. I have recently done a video on the major issue that most people encounter and that is the "4th Corner Problem" Work your way though this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/nnfPqaGgdqmNeqM . I hope it will solve your problem . If not then shout again Best wishes Russ

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Were did you get the lens you use? Thanks

[@russsadler3471]

Hi Rick I trust these guys. If they do not have what you want you can message them with your requirements. www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/co2-laser Best wishes Russ

[@LucidFX.]

What software can one use to design items with that interlock tabs?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Sean see this for your answer kzbin.info/www/bejne/haW6gph3rrSZrdE Best wishes Russ

[@Tate1R]

@@SarbarMultimedia Thank you for showing how you do that!!! I have never heard of Alpha cat before, but I have been trying to learn Autodesk Fusion 360 so will try to use it to try the same process. The tip about extruded acrylic will be helpful too.

[@joopvandam2620]

Hi Russ, another great video. I would also like to make it in PMMA. Do you release the drawings if so where can I find or buy them.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Joop I have been self critical of my Mk1 prototype. It is solving lots of setting and usability issues but once I see the design as a 3D manifestation, I feel that as I take it through to the intended metal version there are changes to usability that I have incorporated.. I am now in the process of looking at if I can redesign the acrylic version to incorporate those usability features. When I am happy that the design is right I shall repeat this manufacturing video and test it. Thereafter I shall make the design available for you guys to make your own. Keep watching Best wishes Russ

[@GregerOlofsson]

Great vid, as always. When can I buy the kit? 😜

[@SarbarMultimedia]

I do plan to refine the design with a Mk2, so just practice holding your breath!! Best wishes Russ

[@rabbiehippo]

Aye I like the ease for cleaning the third mirror. Great design so just release it as it is ! Cheers

[@mr.t8638]

Cheers Russ, what a great design! And as always it was a great pleasure to watch the vid!

[@edgarelectro4178]

I need this constructor that you collect I need a layout please Send me a file.

[@TheWaLeK]

Well again a damn good session and I learned a lot again. But after everything was set i couldnt see the way you set the focal point. With the original head we could move the nozzle up and down but here i think you set the focal point by moving the table up and down right? Edit: how did you make that nozzle set and also, can we have the dxf file and make our own nozzle set for ourselfs or are these all for sale?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Umat Yes if you listen at 18 minutes you will hear me tell that you need and adjustable table because the nozzle is at a fixed height.. The nozzle set is made from plastic (acetal copolymer) and although I have drawings for it I will not be publishing them just yet. I am in the process of looking at this prototype and criticizing it. I am part way through designing a metal Mk2 version that will be a lot slicker. I can design differently in metal. I may be able to back translate the metal design to plastic so that you guys can make your own but the mounting bracket will still have to be metal for strength and stability. Best wishes Russ ps I am musing the possibility of making the head and nozzle kit available for sale because there have been many interested that do not have manufacturing capability

[@Marco-vy4bs]

Hello super videos. What kind of glue do you use?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Marco This is what I use www.bondrite.co.uk/adhesives-for-plastics/wc123-petg-weld-cement-250ml/p340483.html I don't know if they will ship out of the UK because of the flammable nature of the liquid but it is worth dropping them an email. Best wishes Russ

[@Peeseebeeb]

Hello Russ, Is it possible that you could supply me with the dxf files for your new acrylic head? I would like to make the modification myself and possibly use them to make a metal version myself when I have finished setting up my CNC machine. Incidentally, on another request, you mentioned using the new youtube IM facility but I have no idea how to get to it.

[@russsadler3471]

Hi Peter By this weekend I hope to be videoing the Mk2a version with no special tool requirements for those who do not have workshops or certain skills. After that I will be making drawings and kits of fixings available along with the mounting bracket. Since You Tube stopped their private message system, it is difficult to send email addresses for offline contact. If you need to contact me send me your email address as a comment. I automatically get the same message as an email and can immediately delete your comment from the public arena. Best wishes Russ

[@patrickmaartense7772]

what did you use to polish the mirror ?

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Patrick Check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2a3kKV6qM9lndE at 15:30 you will see how I polished it and with what. Best wishes Russ

[@patrickmaartense7772]

tnx !!!

[@patrickmaartense7772]

was not sure if I could use commandant to polish ( had quite a lot of dirt on the head mirror that did not come off with Alcohol) used that now to polish and its a lot better now again. back to cutting my Panels for the flightsim.

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Patrick You can use acetone on your mirrors but do not use it on your lens.. Acetone will usually shift any burnt on debris. You may need to leave it soaking for about a minute but I have never failed with alcohol. My raw copper mirrors are a bit different . The thin oxide coating has to be lightly polished off. Best wishes Russ

[@fyrstorm2010]

Another great and interesting video.

[@Snoekel]

Hi Russ, is it already possible to get the cutting file for this lensholder? I realy want to replace the original one with this version ;-) Thanks!

[@SarbarMultimedia]

Hi Patrick Just a little more patience and I will be issuing video number 153 which is the final design of the acrylic head and giving details of where the files are and where to buy parts. Up to now I have not released drawings because this has been a work in progress. The design has been tested in various ways over the past few weeks and I am completely happy that I will not be causing you a problem and that even people without small workshops will be able to make it. I have used standard lens tubes and nozzles that can be purchased on-line and now China blue has a powerful array of lens options it can use and also you will have the opportunity to adjust the lens position within the lens tube to change the distance between nozzle and work by a few mm. The operating conditions for cutting and engraving are completely different but you are only supplied with one nozzle. My work shows beyond doubt that you really need dedicated nozzles to do each task correctly. However, if you need to cut and engrave on a single project then you have to accept the compromise of using a single nozzle (probably the cutting nozzle.) Thanks for your interest Best wishes Russ

[@Snoekel]

Thank you so much, two thumbs up for all your work on this!!

[@rickmccaskill7888]

Is the files available to make on my machine? Thank you so much for your video I learn a lot from each one.

[@russsadler3471]

Hi Rick Yes the files are available but this design is only suitable for the 300x500mm China Blue machine. Best wishes Russ

[@sharzanco]

Help me . Hi I am subscriber , I appreciate your support ‘ I had Italian laser machine but no more functions because the support was bad ‘ I recently bought China one 100 Watt . My problems the laser beam not fine like Italian one . For example when I draw 4mm round circle on MDF wood after I cut it I find it 5 mm ,bigger than my drawing. Can you advice what is the reason . Please Help

[@hamzasel8726]

Change the pulse parameters of the machine from the software

[@andrewchesney]

Oh my! Masterclass.

[@Toshlad]

Russ, if you were to manufacture these in aluminium then I'd through my money your way in a heart beat, I'm certain others would too :-)

[@irukard]

Brilliant!

[@marouaneladjel1907]

hello ross you miss us