Re-installing "Modified" Original Compensator

Want to see what I came up with as a hopeful improvement over the factory setup? I had to remove the SE compensator and re-install the original compensator, with a twist. I added a 5th spring washer to the original 4 in the pack. The results look promising so far.
Feel like buying me a coffee? Click here! www.buymeacoffee.com/wg4zdRbQF
UPDATE 6/21/2018: About 1,500 miles down so far and still no issues. Half of that was riding 2-up.
UPDATE 6/10/2018: Just got home from Laconia Bike Week. 711 miles riding 2-up. No problems. Looking promising at this time.
UPDATE 6/8/2018: Rode 265 miles 2-up to bike week in New Hampshire. Some interstate at 70mph, mostly back roads though. No issues with this setup so far.
DISCLAIMER: MARK YOUNG MAKES NO WARRANTY/GUARANTEE, EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, AS TO THE RESULTS OBTAINED FROM THE USE OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS VIDEO OR ON THIS PAGE/PLATFORM, DIRECTLY OR THROUGH THIRD PARTY SHARING. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WILL MARK YOUNG BE RESPONSIBLE OR LIABLE IN ANY WAY FOR ANY CONTENT, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, ANY ERRORS OR OMISSIONS IN THE CONTENT, EXPRESSLY OR IMPLIED, OR FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE OF ANY KIND INCURRED AS A RESULT OF ANY CONTENT COMMUNICATED OR IMPLIED IN THIS VIDEO AND/OR ON THIS PAGE/PLATFORM, WHETHER BY MARK YOUNG OR ANY THIRD PARTY. IN NO EVENT SHALL MARK YOUNG BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY CERTAIN, SPECIAL, INDIRECT OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR ANY DAMAGES WHATSOEVER RESULTING FROM LOSS OR USE OF ANY INFORMATION COMMUNICATED ASSOCIATED WITH THIS VIDEO AND/OR PAGE/PLATFORM. THE INFORMATION PROVIDED SHOULD NOT REPLACE PROFESSIONAL ADVICE. THIS AGREEMENT ALSO EXTENDS TO ANYONE AND/OR ANYTHING, THIRD PARTY, WHICH MAY BE ASSOCIATED WITH THIS VIDEO, PAGE/PLATFORM, AND/OR MARK YOUNG. MARK YOUNG MAY, AT ANY TIME, REVISE THE INFORMATION ON THIS VIDEO AND/OR PAGE/PLATFORM WITHOUT NOTICE, AND MAKES NO COMMITMENT TO UPDATE THIS INFORMATION. NECESSARY SAFETY EQUIPMENT/ENVIRONMENT, DISPLAYED OR NOT, DISCUSSED OR NOT, IS UP TO THE USER TO DETERMINE WHAT IS NEEDED FOR THEIR OWN SAFETY, THE SAFETY OF OTHERS, AND PROPERTY.

[@williamamburgy3458]

Any updates on this?

[@contact4mwy7]

I put a lot of miles on that setup including riding two-up, and when I opened it up, shown in another video, it was still putting sufficient pressure on the cams. Startups, especially hot after fueling up, were solid with no drama as before. I acquired the final part I was looking for to install a Screamin Eagle compensator, so I did that. Someone had commented that the outer cup had separated from the stator when he was passing someone on the highway with the factory setup, so I was wondering if I would run into that problem with this modification? Maybe it was an isolated problem and not common?

[@williamamburgy3458]

Thank you Mark!

[@bretbrown4325]

It’s best to get rid of the factory setup it’s trash.

[@79lemans]

Hey Mark,thx for taking the time to make these videos for all to see...….my 2008 just started to making that awesome grinding noise a few times an took things apart just to see an make sure i'm not messing any other parts cause you know already the damage it can cause..i am going to tryout the 1/8th setup shim but making one at work ..I also put in the Hayden auto tensioner earlier an so far is working great.. I will keep you updated on how things go..6/24/18

[@contact4mwy7]

dave dias thanks for commenting, and can't wait to hear how your homemade shim comes out. Where it will be flat, I assume, will you be placing the shim washer in the back of the pack or against the cam gear? My washer is not flat so it added more spring tension by placing it in the back, whereas placing it facing out against the cam gear it has a fraction of its spring action and acts more like it's just a shim. I hope that makes sense. What size motor? Mine is the 96. And when you opened it up could you rotate the primary chain sprocket back and forth about 3/4 of an inch without any resistance?

[@Amorimedimar1]

Hello here in Teresópolis Rio de Janeiro Brazil. I did this procedure on 6 softail, and it has worked very well.

[@oreohogan]

very interesting im having the same deal 1999 fxstc got it apart now have a used compensator with 25 thousand miles coming on ebay i may try that same deal u just did thanks so much for the video

[@cglenncowdell2408]

Great video information. Thanks for sharing.

[@davidrandall7354]

Hello Mark, thank you for taking the time to make and post your videos, it is much appreciated. I own a 2009 Ultra CVO with a 110 that has made the clunking noise from the day I purchased it new. I complained to the dealer almost from day one but they never did anything about it. At just under 40,000 miles my stator failed so when I was replacing the stator I figured it would be a good time to check my compensator, it looked fine, not much wear on it or anywhere else for that matter, everything looked good. I thought about upgrading the the SE or Baker compensator but in the end I decided to wait and see how things looked when I had it apart. Once it was apart I decided to add an additional beveled washer like you did in idea two. I had the bike out for a putt this afternoon and the positive different was noticeable, smoother shifting, easier finding first gear. I know you ended up going to the SE compensator but before you did how many miles did you put on idea 2 . Did you run into any problems with idea 2 ? Do you see any reason I should upgrade to the SE or Baker compensator ? Thank you for your reply.

[@contact4mwy7]

Thank you for the compliments, David. I put 1,800 miles on that setup including two-up riding to Laconia and back, about 200 miles each way from here. Everything was still good when I took it apart to install the SE compensator. Someone had commented that the retainer ring that holds the spring pack in place detached from the rotor on the interstate and caused a whole lot of commotion. So I started wondering if that would happen to me with this setup, that's why I swapped to the SE. Where you have the 110 and I have a 96 I can recommend that you upgrade to the SE compensator. Yes, it has a price tag and takes a bit of fussing with (I had to grind away some of the inner primary metal to remove the rotor due to the first rotor I installed had issues and was out of balance and I really didn't want to buy another bolt/gasket set the second time around). I have uploaded videos for this as well. The SE compensators are just plain made better and can handle more hp than the original. The Milwaukee 8's use a similar but even beefier compensator, if you search for videos on them you'll see. That's my two cents worth, man. I hope it gives you something to go on.

[@davidrandall7354]

Thank you for your prompt reply Mark. If I upgrade I am leaning towards the Baker unit instead of the SE unit. When I changed my stator I trimmed away a little of the inner primary cover with a dremel tool so the rotor could be removed without removing the inner primary so I am good there.

[@davidrandall7354]

Mark, FYI - I was just told by a buddy that with the beveled washer turned out like in idea 2 that I’ll have to much pressure on the lefty bearing which will cause the bearing to fail, not right away but at some point down the road so I will be moving the extra beveled washer back to idea 1 which will hopefully give me some improvement. I know you said it didn’t make a difference for you but I guess it all depends on how much wear is on the beveled washer.

[@contact4mwy7]

@@davidrandall7354 I'm curious, is he talking about the motor bearing or the compensator parts themselves? The assembly pushes against the stator rotor which comes up against a stop on the crankshaft, so there shouldn't be any pressure on the motor bearings. Can you explain it a bit more for me? Thank you for letting me know.

[@davidrandall7354]

@@contact4mwy7 he is talking about having not enough give for the motor bearing, he said with the beveled washer turned outward that it is to tight and at some point it will take out the bearing. I just finished going from your idea 2 back to your idea 1 and the feel is not as tight but it is far better than the factory using only the 4 beveled washers. After I have a face to face chat with my buddy and understand this better I will get back to you.

[@murphfee617]

Good stuff I think that was the ticket.

[@robm3357]

Your not alone. I have a Victory Vision and I have had the compensator a part 10 times now. And I have tried the spring washers every way possible and it still rattles, or let’s the motor pulses cause the gears to sound like a pack of chicklets. As when the the pistons fire it backlashes the gears and make rattling sound or shacking a pack of chicklets. Drives me crazy. Makes most of the noise under load when the power pulses are at the worst.

[@deanomizes2254]

I started doing that with the shovel heads and kept doing it with all newer motors up till 2016 for a quick fix using 1 more spring added in. Always worked good! As long as the splines aren't to worn.

[@contact4mwy7]

Glad to know I'm not the only one! My '09 is still running one extra medium spring on a Screamin' Eagle compensator. No complaints.

[@oleksasirotinin1532]

@@contact4mwy7 is it correct, that one may use just a properly sized shim and not the harley spring from the kit to get same setup?

[@contact4mwy7]

Oleksa, I suppose you could use something homemade as long as the hole size was proper and it was balanced well. That is why I used an original, although previously used, spring washer as a shim. Now I have removed that extra spring washer and I am just running the factory number of spring washers with the thrust washer towards the back of the sprocket the way the factory intended. It is pulling we still and just a bit smoother on the power pulses than before making the ride more enjoyable and less shaking. This is with a newer Screamin Eagle compensator.

[@oleksasirotinin1532]

Got it, thanks!

[@randymccalla9995]

It would seem to me, that all spring controlled, compensators would just need the springs replaced, along with any worn parts... The screaming eagle version springs also wear out, The baker version springs also wear out, the way I see It no one ever goes without checking inside the primary more than 20 to 30 thousand miles in any case, most of the time everyone checks chain tension about 5 to 10 thousand miles anyway, and clutchs sooo why not put new springs ?

[@79lemans]

hey Mark, correction I did not make a 1/8th washer shim.... I made it the thickness of one of the springs which was .095 .I will test this setup soon....

[@contact4mwy7]

dave dias thank you for the measurement. Crossing my fingers for you.

[@johnmartin5493]

thanks for the reply, well im all wrong i talked w hd and was told that will not fit my 06 88in ultra.

[@FyvX5]

Thanks Mark. I will try that. The issue is that i have the 103, and the cup literally delaminated off of the rotor unit. I will try this until the Baker is here and i install it. Thanks again!

[@contact4mwy7]

Shane Hall I didn't know these compensators were also put on the 103's. What year is yours? The cup became detached from the stator rotor? First I've heard of that happening!I went for another ride today, still very happy with how it is rolling the bike. I'm hoping I don't have a cup/rotor issue like you had. Headed to Laconia bike week next week, about 200 miles one-way, two-up. That should be a real test.

[@finley614]

Shane Hall that’s because that stator rotor/ cup was made for the TC888 and can’t handle the TC96/103 . I have the Bakers Compensator and have never look back at HD crap for Compensators.

[@murphfee617]

Thats a Shame to hear I live an hour from Laconia an have been going to that run since 91 its a good one aint it?

[@randymccalla9995]

It is a note to those with the first years, of the spring pack on the rotor, some were riveted, and Not welded to the rotor.

[@levialston518]

It look like the screaming eagle compensator without the spring cup think I'll try it on a 07 ultra classic

[@randymccalla9995]

All of the earlier compensators, pre 2000 also had springs wear out, they just purchase new springs, and run on down the road..

[@timbarnett3898]

Welding tabs can leave metal pieces through motor when friction breaks them off. Too bad something better too hold washer centered?

[@user-rg5ne7xd5w]

if you change old springs for new ones, should the problem go away?

[@YashiCroRiders]

Hi Mark, do you still have any of those original Harley belleville springs? I would like to buy a couple from you

[@Amorimedimar1]

Hi! I put on another spring, only it has situation that the wear of it is so accented that it only solves the problem with two springs.

[@contact4mwy7]

That is a situation I am unfamiliar with. Do you mean two spring rings, or tow sets of four spring rings?

[@schachat01]

Hi Mark-I tried your Idea 2 using 5 Belleville washers (i.e. using the 5th Belleville washer as a shim). Unfortunately it has not cured the hot start issue. Apart from the hot start issue the compensator is pretty quiet. Appreciate any advice. Out of interest how is your Idea 2 configuration working on your bike since you installed it? Thanks Arnold

[@contact4mwy7]

Arnold, thanks for asking. I did not have an issue using the 5 washer idea, but a guy told me the outer guard that held the spring pack in place broke off on his ride on the interstate, and I didn't want that to happen to mine. So I upgraded to the Screamin Eagle compensator and it was well worth doing. Twice actually. The first time I installed a salvaged magnet rotor that was damaged in shipping and was no longer in balance, after removing the whole inner primary assembly to do it. The second time, with a proper magnet rotor, I used a Dremel tool to grind away just enough material for the magnet rotor to slide out and the replacement to slide in. It really wasn't that much aluminum to shave off and the gasket still has enough surface to seal. I know, that's not the "proper way it's done" but spending more money on another inner primary bolt/gasket set was not appealing at the time.

[@79lemans]

Hey Mark,no sir my compensator was never loose this problem started last yr but only a couple of times i am lucky enough I caught this in time an didn't let it go an damage anything else i got the bike nice an hot an stop like you would if you were getting some gas an tried to start it an got that awesome grinding sound from that Harley Davidson company junk they sell...im just another sucker like many ..i've owned a Harley since 18yrs not that proud of it either jk…. I'm going to a compensator eliminator.. I wouldn't be dragrace an no hole shots so im not worried about blowing the left side of the motor apart if I wanted to go fast I wouldn't own a Harley that's forsure.i dragraced a car for 20yrs I know alittle about it lol....my Roadglide is just a cruising bike for me an the wife...

[@contact4mwy7]

dave dias I totally understand. I hope everything works out well for you as there is still a lot of riding time left in the year. Be safe.

[@johnmartin5493]

when i replace my stock 2006 ultra compensator with a screaming eagle compensator and S E stator rotor do i have to replace the stator also?

[@contact4mwy7]

Hello John, no just the rotor, it will fit over the stock rotor, as long as we are talking about a 96 ci motor? Have you seen the factory compensator, is it the flat disc type?

[@MultiSoftwareenginee]

Hey Mark, great videos! I tried to replace my rotor/alternator on my 09 heritage. As you know the inner primary prevents you from fulling out the rotor. You mentioned that you ground down the lip and was able to pull it out. I used a dremel and ground it down as well. It is still getting hung up! I have the rotor that came with the screaming eagle compensator, is it possible its slightly larger in diameter than the stock? What did you use to grind down your inner primary? Thanks in advance!

[@contact4mwy7]

I used a Dremel with a grind stone. After I ground some away, I tried to pull the cover out and made a note of where it was contacting the primary, shaved that area a bit more and tried again. You should be able to see a difference in the ground surface where the disc is hitting. I kept doing this until I could just wiggle it out and then wiggled the replacement in.

[@chrischurch5357]

Hi there just seen your video using additional sprig plate aa a spacer . Was there any issues with chain alignment in doing this

[@contact4mwy7]

No, there wasn't. Chain alignment is determined by the inner spindle parts, not the spring washers. Once the inner parts tighten up against each other and the rotor cover the chain should retain it's alignment. If the chain alignment was off to begin with it would still be off after doing this as well. I hope that helps.

[@79lemans]

hey Mark ,well the mod did not work for me it was worth a try though...have a good riding season an be safe....

[@contact4mwy7]

dave dias I'm sorry to hear it. Was this with the shim that you made? By saying it did not work, do you mean the compensator was still loose?

[@timbarnett3898]

I need this on my 03 fxdx

[@2grubsie2]

Hi Mark, Late to the party but I am here. Thanks for posting this. I have read in comments here and some of your other compensator videos about a guy that mentioned that the retainer ring that secures the spring pack to the rotor let go. It was not mentioned in his comments or yours as to whether it happened with the stock setup of 4 washers or did it happened after adding the 5th washer in idea 1 or 2. Today, I added the 5th washer as in idea #2 and all ills seemed to be cured for me, except for that retainer ring issue you mentioned that is stuck in the back of my mind. I think if one of the Bellville washers could be flattened out, and maybe with a little grinding of the outer edge of it, it could be placed in the bottom of the retainer. This way, not only would it act as a shim. it would also apply pressure to the entire bottom of the spring pack cup to keep it in place for good. Your Idea #2 )()(), My idea ()()|. With idea # 2 and also with the stock setup, the convex part of the bellville washer only comes in contact with the rotor surface and applies no contact with the actual spring pack base. A flat washer will not only contact the rotor but also all the way to the outer edges of the spring pack , therefore not allowing the cup to separate from the rotor. I tried using the cupped washer like that but ran out of room in the cup to the bend tabs to hold the washers in. Like this ()()( A hardened flat washer would work perfectly or somehow flatten an existing one. Also, for those of you looking for the washers, the same ones are used in the older EVO engines. you can pick up the compensators cheap.

[@contact4mwy7]

The retainer ring mentioned was on the weaker Stock compensator that was installed 2007-2011. I tried adding an extra spring to that pack, and although it met expectations, the possibility of the retainer ring separating made me upgrade to the Screamin Eagle compensator. I am still running the S.E. compensator with an extra spring with no bad side effects so far. If you are using a Screamin Eagle compensator, you don't have a retainer ring to worry about. You mentioned " bending the tabs" in your post, which makes me believe you are not running a S.E. Compensator, but the one with the retainer ring. It is the ring with the bent tabs that another commented separated on his. It seems to be welded to the magnet rotor. Is that what you see?

[@2grubsie2]

@@contact4mwy7 I understand that the retainer ring mentioned was on the weaker stock oem compensator from 2007 to 2011. My question was, did this happen to his as an oem (non modified) stock 4 bellville washer unit or did it happen after he added a 5th washer like in your idea 1 or 2? Yesterday I tried your idea #2 with great success but was concerned about the retainer ring unit possibly coming loose. So Today, I did what I mentioned in my previous reply yesterday. The results are exactly like your idea #2, with this different setup. I flattened out one of my extra bellville washers as flat as i could get it. It has a little spring spring play left in it (about 1/8", if that). Due to the fact that it was flattened, the outside diameter grew enough that I had to grind about 1/16" off all away around the washer for it to slip comfortably into the cup. Take a look inside of the rotor cup at 19:19 in your video. The 3/8"wide darker circle going around the splined shaft and the next shiny 3/4" circle are the pieces attached to your magnetic rotor. They stand proud of the rotor like the newer style rotor you are running now with the sreamin eagle comp. The the next ring is the retainer, then a small weld bead, and finally the actual washer cup. In the stock setup, and your ideas 1 and 2, the 1st washer placed in the cup is like this ") rotor side. With this setup, The washer only applies pressure on the actual proud part of the rotor, being the 2 innermost circles I mentioned. There is no pressure at all on the retainer, weld, or the cup. My new setup, with the slightly flattened washer placed in the cup is like this "( rotor side". With this setup, the washer I modified flattens against the 2 inner magnetic rotor circles and also the outer edges of the washer are applying pressure against the outer edges of the cup which is also apply pressure against the magnetic rotor. With this pressure assisting in holding the cup against the magnetic rotor, there is no way that the cup can come loose. I'm thinking at the minimum it's a some extra protection from the cup popping off. At least that's what the little voice inside my head is telling me. So my final setup is like this "comp side ()()( rotor side" I'm gonna run it like this for a while to see how well it works. I'm sure that the spring washers will weaken again at some point. Just don't know when. Don't know what I will go with next. I was not happy with the screamin eagle in my 2012 ultra. That thing was just as noisy and needed replacement at 18K miles. I was second owner. I switched to a solid sprocket and that was even worse. I tried the Man-o war in my 2014 ultra and not happy with that either. Went with a baker and loved it. Now with this 2008 RK , I just can't justify spending "Baker" money on it. Especially since the runout at the end of the spline is .007". Frigging Moco!

[@contact4mwy7]

@@2grubsie2 yes, that setup looks like it will put pressure on the welded part of the retainer, helping it to stay in place. The person that wrote about his retainer ring popping off on the interstate is the only case I've heard from so far, and I don't have the history of how his driving was or if any modifications had been done to the spring pack, engine, etc. I didn't perceive any issues with the way mine was performing, and even rode two up for hundreds of miles in hilly countryside riding without complaint. The only reason I switched was that I didn't have a lot of faith in that compensator setup. I'd say as long as you aren't doing heavy upgrades to the engine, or drive it like you stole it, you should be good to go and have an enjoyable ride again. Keep me posted. Thanks. PS: Hearing noise from the compensator is sometimes just due to the fact that it is doing its job to absorb the shock pulse of the pistons. The sound of the components rubbing together, metal on metal. If it's making ridiculous noise on hot startups, etc. then it's time to address the springs losing their strength.

[@1985bluebird]

Hey Mark you don't happen to have a few extra spring washers for the stock compensator, do you? I'd pay for them. I just bought a 2008 Heritage Softail Classic and I think the compensator is starting to go. It doesn't sound nearly as bad as yours did but when I start the bike it makes one LOUD clunk then it's fine. Does it every time I start the bike. Hoping an extra washer will fix it... I hate to buy a whole unit for just a spring washer...

[@contact4mwy7]

I'll have to take a look see.

[@diymike5747]

Hey Mark Young, what if you were to add a shim on top of the assembly between the bolt washer and sprocket. Wouldn't that essentially be the same as to what you were doing?

[@contact4mwy7]

If I follow you right, between the bolt and sprocket would throw the alignment of the primary chain off. That why I had to add it to the other side.

[@diymike5747]

@@contact4mwy7 ok I forgot to think about that..... Throwing off the alignment of the chain. Did you ever find a definitive solution or just what you found in the video. And my bike only starts slipping when its warm.

[@contact4mwy7]

@@diymike5747 this setup lasted quite a few miles, even riding two-up, before I swapped it out with a Screamin Eagle unit. The SE unit is a bit beefier built, but the spring packs in them lose there strength after many miles of use. I have another video showing the installation of it and how I changed it up a bit by adding an extra spring washer to it. Ran it the rest of this riding season without any complaints. Thanks for checking out my videos and commenting.

[@oreohogan]

yea i thought my engine was comin apart scared the hell out of me

[@mareknosek996]

Maybe ... just getting the proper parts would be the best thing To do.

[@d_99sd95]

Прошло 2 года, полет нормальный?)

[@rosemcbirney5123]

What causes the clunk when you put into gear I have a 2000 fxst and won’t to get rid of it what can I do.

[@contact4mwy7]

My opinion on the clunk when you shift from neutral into gear is this: the clutch plates have a fluid stickiness to them that even with the clutch lever pulled in encourages them to rotate the transmission shaft while in neutral. When it shifts into gear that rotation stops suddenly with a Clunk! I don't have any proof of this, yet, so it's just a theory. Whether or not a thinner primary lube lessens this affect has been debated.

[@rosemcbirney5123]

@@contact4mwy7 that makes sence and thanks for getting back to me. Vince

[@markrudy327]

How about apreformance compensator for a shovel head

[@contact4mwy7]

Hello Mark, I am not familiar with that one.

[@redelljacobs9502]

Mark thanks, Any more updates? How is it working? Thanks...

[@contact4mwy7]

It worked very well for the time I used it. I received a comment telling of the retainer ring detaching from the rotor on an interstate from someone and thought maybe it's time to upgrade to a Screamin' Eagle compensator, which I did. While I was using this experimental setup the starting problems went away, and it could still cushion the pulses of the engine at lower RPMs. I was spooked to think what if the retainer popped off my rotor, where would I be if that happened. I have not looked into how common that is. Thanks for the comment!

[@redelljacobs9502]

So rather be safe than sorry spend the money and do an upgrade to a Screaming Eagle or the Baker Compensator? Thanks again Mark

[@americ79]

Hey Mark I appreciate you showing this mod. I’m planning on doing it to my 96 in. I was wondering if you had any of those washers left you would want to part with?

[@kennethwise7108]

Mark, being the person I am I took a different approach and am trying something different. I made a fixture for holding the 4ea. spring washers and measured the stack height before and after to get an idea of how far they are capable of traveling before they are 100% collapsed. I measured .280" which is exactly how far they go. I plan on trying to collapse my 4ea. springs to a .75% crush load which equates to being .210" compressed. I will be taking a mechanical measurement from the outside of the spring cup at finger tight to the motors output shaft for determining my starting point. I will then mark the head of the center bolt and turn it in to get the .210" tolerance I'm looking for. I'll measure that torque afterwards for recording purposes.

[@contact4mwy7]

Wow, Kenneth, I'm curious to what you discover!

[@kennethwise7108]

@Mark Young - Outside The Box me too, looks like a full 3 turns on the compensator bolt will give me the correct load based off of a 14 threads per in scale (.071 x 3 = .213"). That should compress the spring pack to my desired 75% crush. Lucky for me my center bolt is hollow and I can accurately measure that with a set of calipers. I've been using an impact gun for torque for several years and have never had any issues with my center bolt coming loose. I've never actually measured anything before but now I'm more curious than ever about the proper crush on the springs. Having a larger motor (113") has been causing my starter to spin backwards occasionally and I don't wanna risk tearing up my new 1.7kw starter. It didn't do that AT ALL when I had my compensator eliminator sprocket installed so I'm absolutely confident this is my problem. I was only getting 68% crush with my impact and im going to use a breaker bar and increase that load to 75% I'll verify what that equates to with my 0-250' torque wrench once it's all installed. More to follow...

[@contact4mwy7]

@@kennethwise7108 what are you using for a primary chain tensioner?

[@kennethwise7108]

@Mark Young - Outside The Box I like the HB-125 Hydraulic one from Southern Oregon Hot Bikes.

[@FyvX5]

Mark, My Police King is and '07. First year 103. Yeah, the cup delaminated like the seal off a milk jug. Pretty scary at 75mph passing a vehicle!

[@contact4mwy7]

Shane Hall I bet it was! Even though adding a 5th spring ring seems to be working out on, this makes me want to track down a Screamin' Eagle stator rotor and swap it out before that happens to me. Thanks for the reply!

[@randymccalla9995]

Was your rotor one of the first models that had the cup bolted instead of welded ??

[@5x5Baer]

I wouldn’t know about that. Best answer I could research was that entire system hadn’t been redesigned or upgraded since the 88” models. I ended up changing out and upgrading the entire drive train. All the way to the inner bearings inside the final drive gear. Sold the bike a couple years ago, but i bet it’s still rock’n and roll’n!!!

[@randymccalla9995]

@@5x5Baer so if you don't know that the compensator spring cup was welded or bolted on why would you be thinking everyone would be loosing their spring retaining shell on the highway ??

[@5x5Baer]

@@randymccalla9995 Bro, that was a lifetime ago, i hear ya. Don’t think i meant that everyone will be loosing their cups on the highway…. It happened to mine, which i no longer own-i fixed all the company’s slack a$$ work on my dime and fixed the problems with my motorcycle. Sorry if you miss read me.

[@acurarl9929]

Have you ever seen spring washers break , like crack an look like a lock washer so to speak???

[@contact4mwy7]

I have not seen or heard of that happening. Did this happen to you or someone you know of?

[@c.scotthambrook9890]

I have an 05 Ultra Classic with a loud as shit compensator but not finding an upgrade. I was thinking of trying this solution but not sure if I want to . Anypne heard of a solution for 05?

[@jonchristianson3237]

I just installled the Dark Horse Crankworks man-o-war compensator and this thing is really great. Harley should start implementing this on all bikes. I work on Helicopters and this baby is aircraft quality i tell you! Previously I rode an 09 Ultra 96 and had problems at 23,000 miles, hot start issues and banging and clanking so i had a Screamin eagle installed and was fine for about 3 months and once again the problem started again. I got pissed and sold the bike and recently bought a 10 ultra classic one owner with 39k miles and the same problem was immediately evident when the guy started the bike for the first time. I thought damn, this one too?? He said its done it since day one. This would've drove me nuts so when i got it home i started to take it apart... Ordered a dark Horse Man-O-War compensator that same day and have since installed it. It is kind of like a love-joy-connector from electric motors that are spinning pumps or other mechanical apparatus. It just uses round bushings Rubber cushions they call it to dampen out the engine pulses. Genius!! easily replaceable at 30 to 40k miles (per manufacture) the bushings do wear out but hell. all you need to do is reorder the rubber bushings instead of the whole compensator. Worth every penny!

[@contact4mwy7]

That is the description I've been looking forward to hearing about. Let me ask, did you have to document the crank runout first before install?

[@jonchristianson3237]

@@contact4mwy7 Yes I checked runout and was .003 Darkhorse recommends nothing over .010 Im going to run it 500 miles and pull cover off to recheck chain tension, as I’m still using the factory setup. At that time I may install a Hayden manual adjuster. Also thinking of installing a new Dark horse crankshaft this winter after riding season.

[@jamieguitard8813]

any updates on this mod

[@contact4mwy7]

Only that it worked for thousands of miles, including two up riding, until I replaced it with a Screamin Eagle compensator.

[@ronaldsaikali6577]

This is also what recommended a mechanics friend of mine. But instead advise to add only one additional flat washer with half the thickness of the belleville spring washer and it should be enough (I hope) . I will have this washer machined. I have a Fatboy 2008.

[@contact4mwy7]

Ronald Saikali I have to admit, I have about 1,500 miles on this 2nd configuration shown in the video, half of that riding 2-up, and the startups and shut downs are tight, yet acceleration smooths out like it should. Will if last another 1,000... 5,000... 20,000.... Is a good question. Satisfied with its performance so far. I am not one to hammer the throttle much, so maybe that is helping too. Keep me posted on your progress, thanks.

[@ronaldsaikali6577]

Thinking about the problem: - in a new compensator, the belleville spring washer are filling completely the gap. But are they a bit loaded (under tension) in the original assembly ? - over time these spring washer loose their stiffness, get flattened and their deflection is reduced - A gap is created and should be fill back to again have this spring effect The question raised: - how much is the gap ? - will the gap increase again in time ? - should we exactly fill the gap ? or we should over fill the gap in order to compress a bit the spring washer? In my setup, I will try to fill exactly the gap without loading the spring washer. will keep you posted in few weeks....

[@contact4mwy7]

I think I understand your question and thinking on this. The "gap" you are referring to is between the "cam gear" and the "spring pack." I agree with you that over time (miles) the spring pack washers wear against each other and lose some of their stiffness. So yes, in effect, what I did was to shim that "gap" between the two and all is well again. It may be difficult to machine one, which is why I bought a used spring pack still inside the stator rotor cup so I could use one of those springs which are the correct size. If I had a flat washer shim, instead of a cupped Belleville washer shim, I think it would have worked better in the back of the spring pack as a shim, but the curve of the Belleville washer acted like adding another spring and made it too stiff overall. There just isn't a lot of space to work with behind that cam gear to the inside of the stator rotor, which makes filling that space too much a possibility which could end up feeling like a solid compensator sprocket (this is how it felt in the first attempt setup, and I didn't care for it). Keep me posted!

[@contact4mwy7]

What cubic inch is your motor?

[@ronaldsaikali6577]

Mark Young - Outside The Box 96 CI with stage 1

[@gabriel9102BR]

SE or baker newer compensator? Bike is a dyna 08

[@contact4mwy7]

That's totally up to you to decide. I went with replacing mine with a used SE unit pulled at a salvage. I have no experience with the Baker unit, but I haven't heard anything bad about them so far. Let me know what you decide to do and how it is working for you. Thanks!

[@gabriel9102BR]

Mark Young - Outside The Box right now I’m going with new springs... but i thinking, if I keep the bike for unknown time I’m planning to go with the baker.

[@RobertEmbrey-l7z]

Where did u get extra washer?

[@contact4mwy7]

@@RobertEmbrey-l7z I bought a used compensator on eBay.

[@revbikerbigd8664]

Baker makes the fix !

[@marksumerel7256]

They fail as well run a eliminator

[@theoc634]

Hey Mark how are you doing..do you have any springs left over😀

[@contact4mwy7]

I'll take a look see at what I have.

[@theoc634]

@@contact4mwy7 thank you

[@contact4mwy7]

@@theoc634 I have 6 spring washers left over. 4 are still inside a rotor that came in a box with other parts I needed.

[@theoc634]

Would you like to sell me one of the springs,im going to try your trick on my bike to buy me some time,around here in california no one has these spring and it would be highly appreciated if yiu can help a fellow rider out. I can send you my email so i can send you my address

[@Amorimedimar1]

Hello, the first idea has a bigger result

[@ricardodias1990]

Barrão vou experimentar esta ideia. Qual é que tem melhor resultado a 1 ou a 2?

[@Amorimedimar1]

Ricardo Dias usa duas molas pra fazer reforço. As mola originais estão assim ()(). Com reforço com duas molas usadas fica assim (()()). Já tem no mercado um kit de molas produzida em Belo Horizonte MG bem Mauá resistente que as originais,está tendo um resultado satisfatório. Já instalei 8 kits.

[@ricardodias1990]

@@Amorimedimar1 obrigado pelo feedback. Abraço

[@jerryhubbard4461]

I hear Baker is the way to go.

[@contact4mwy7]

I have heard a lot of good things about the Baker compensator but have not had any hands-on experience yet.

[@user-rg5ne7xd5w]

it didn’t help me. as it was a clang, it remained

[@contact4mwy7]

I am sorry to hear that. I hope you discover the fix for it soon.

[@randymccalla9995]

Were you using oil in the primary ?

[@richardstoehr9326]

I’m surprised Harley Davison hasn’t hired you for your expertise. There’s a reason they put 4.

[@contact4mwy7]

Your sarcasm has been duly noted.

[@12594]

Whats the reason? Almost everyone breaks and has problems so the quality control clearly isnt there .

[@porkchopspapi5757]

Why not just put in a solid, no spring compensater ?

[@contact4mwy7]

Porkchop's Papi I had a 5th spring washer on the inside of the pack to beef it up a bit and could feel the engine pulses through the drive train most of the time. I would imagine that's what a solid compensator would feel like, and it was a bit annoying to me. It was like a constant buzzing all the time.

[@diymike5747]

Like Young said a solid compensator might potentially damage parts elsewhere.

[@porkchopspapi5757]

Or better yet, why not a belt primary ?

[@contact4mwy7]

Porkchop's Papi that, my friend, would be something! Thanks for the comments.

[@RobertEmbrey-l7z]

Whget extra shim

[@theeastman9136]

A stator-rotor? Makes no sense my friend. 🙄

[@contact4mwy7]

Well, what do you call it?

[@theeastman9136]

@@contact4mwy7 The stator is the fixed part, the rotor is the moving part (rotates) and the two of them form the alternator. That's how they're called. Thank you.

[@contact4mwy7]

Right. Stator rotor describes the rotor I am talking about. I could just call it a rotor, but will everyone know what I am talking about if they have never seen these parts? You knew what I was talking about by that description as well as evidenced by your explanation.

[@theeastman9136]

@@contact4mwy7 Whatever. I was just trying to be more precise. Sorry.

[@79lemans]

im,56 lol